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Photograph of Photograph of a water pump pressure control switch with the cover off FAQs: How to Adjust the Water Pump Pressure Control Switch
Q&A on water pump cut-in & cut-out pressures #1

  • POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about how to adjust or set the Water Pump Pressure Switch - how set the water pump cut in and cut out pressures

Pump pressure control switch FAQs:

This article series answers commonly-asked questions about  how to adjust a well pump or water pump pressure control switch.

We provide pump pressure setting advice, procedures & questions & answers about adjusting the pump switch.

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FAQs on how to set the water pump pressure switch cut-in and cut-out pressures

Photograph of Photograph of a water pump pressure control switch adjustment instructions

Watch out: SAFETY WARNING OF FATAL SHOCK HAZARD: if you remove the cover of the pump pressure control switch you can get access to the two nuts that adjust the operating pressures of the water pump.

But watch out! There are also live electrical contacts exposed in this area. If you touch them, especially being near water piping, there is a serious risk of death by electrocution.

Watch what you touch, or have a professional plumber or electrician do this job for you.

The individual well pump control switch repair article links below explain exactly how to set the water pump pressure switch, where the adjustments are located (the large and small nut found under the switch cover), which way to turn the nuts to increase or decrease the pump cut-in and cut-out pressures, and other pressure switch troubleshooting and repair procedures

[Click to enlarge any image]

These questions were posted originally at WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS - be sure to see that article if you need to adjust the settings on your pressure control switch for your water pump or well pump.

Common Pump Control Switch Problems & Solutions

The individual well pump control switch repair article links below explain exactly how to set the water pump pressure switch, where the adjustments are located (the large and small nut found under the switch cover), which way to turn the nuts to increase or decrease the pump cut-in and cut-out pressures, and other pressure switch troubleshooting and repair procedures

 

Question: water pressure is low but the water pump won't come on

Pump won't come on: 

I just changed the pressure control switch and it will not turn on by itself. the water pressure is very low but the pump never comes on. - BigEd 7/16/11

The pump will not come on. There is no water pressure. I have a Square D Pump Pressure Control Switch. The contacts will not stay down/connnected. When forced to on postion they bounce right back into off ppostion. Any advice would be helpful. - Wilson 7/31/11

My water pressure is very low after one or two loads of laundry. The pressure gets down to less than 15 and the pump still has not pumped. I am not sure how low it gets before it pumps. Whan I get up the next morning it is back up to 45.

What might be the cause of this problem? Is it the pump pressure switch or something else. I hear it running all the time. Any advice would be helpful - Mark 8/31/11

We are losing water pressure at any/all faucets/toilets/etc randomly- water will be running fine, and then it will slack off to nothing, then within 30sec to 1 minute, water will come back one and be fine. This happens at least once a day.

This also just started happening once we replaced the entire reserve tank and pressure gauge and switch (we had a drip from our old tank, and a plumber came in a replaced the whole thing). Now he tells me he thinks this new problem is the well pump....seems very convenient to have 2 major things go bad at exactly the same time. What do you think? - Meg 9/2/11

Reply:

Big Ed

Sometimes changing the switch but mounting it on the existing 1/8" support pipe or connector to the pump or piping leaves a clogged component in place so that the switch doesn't properly sense the actual water pressure.

If your switch is properly wired and there is power to the pump, that clogging could be the problem.

Wilson

if the pump pressure control switch has electrical power and won't stay in the "on" position, that suggests that the pressure diaphraghm of the switch is indicating pressure at or above the cutoff point. If in fact there is no or low water pressure in the system then perhaps the pressure sensing end of the switch or its mounting tube is debris clogged. R&R the switch and mounting tube.

In a different direction, if someone messed with the adjustment nuts on the pressure switch they could have left it in an improper setting position.

Mark:

what you describe sounds like your well recovery rate is poor, perhaps seasonally during hot dry weather. Under WELLS CISTERNS & SPRINGS (links at the ARTICLE INDEX the bottom of this article ), see the article titled "How Much Water is In the Well?" for help in investigating that question.

Meg

I too tend to look first at work that was just recently done, or what was just changed, when debugging a building problem that has just shown up.

I tend not to start by blaming the pump, though there could be an indirect cause there: if the plumbing changes increased the water usage rate or the rate at which the pump was asked to operate, a pump motor that was overheating (failing) might on occasion turn itself off on thermal reset then reset and begin again automagically.

But before replacing the pump I'd look more closely at the pressure control switch; for example, if the plumbing work stirred up debris in the system, crud could be blocking the pressure sensing input of the pressure control switch, causing it to misbehave.

You could try removing the switch, replacing or cleaning the small diameter mounting tube for that device (where water flows up to push on the switch bottom), and if necessary replace the switch.

See the water pressure loss diagnostic steps at WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR (article link at the ARTICLE INDEX the bottom of this article )

Keep us posted - it'll help other readers

Question: How to increase the water pump pressure control cut-in and cut-out pressure

I have a square d control. It cuts off at 40 psi and goes down to 20 psi before it comes back on which is to low when I am using one sprinkler. I want it to come on at 30 psi. I can't understand how to do that looking your directions. Pls help - John 5/19/11

Reply:

How to increase the water pump pressure control cut-in and cut-out pressure:

Take a look again at the instructions above that indicate which nut to turn in which direction to increase the well pump cut-in pressure (that's your 20 psi number) and cut-out pressure (that's your 40 psi number).

You should be able to raise the cut-in pressure to 30 psi and you will probably want to raise the cut out pressure to 50 psi, provided that your pump can actually reach that number. If the pump keeps running forever even AFTER you have turned off the water, then it is not capable of reaching 50 psi and you'll have to lower that setting to avoid burning up the water pump.

If the instructions are still too complicated to follow then you would be best off asking a plumber to change the settings for you. Just be sure the person you hire is familiar with well pump pressure control switches.

 

Water Pump Won't Stop Running - what to do

Question: my pump cannot reach the cut-out pressure setting - my pump runs all the time

I have replaced the Pressure swtch and I can not acheive cutout, pump continues to run. Switch is adjusted very low for cutout. The units cuts in about 26-28 psi. but exceeds the desired 50 -60 psi cutout. - BK 6/6/11

I had to put a new pressure switch on, the pump was running all the time and it burn the points up. The new one is letting the pump run all the time too, when the pump is running the water pressure keeps going up and down, until there is a small amount of water coming out.

I'll turn the pump off and back on then the pressure will come back up and if it runs about a couple of minutes it will do the same thing again. I have no leaks, could this be the water tank?
I need help - Ed 6/18/12

My pump does not exceed 32psi and constantly runs then fails to cut back on even though pressure drops below 20psi. Only way to start it is to manually connect the flow switch to engage the pump. - Jack Nelson 7/7/12

(Nov 26, 2014) Evelio said:
water pump in the tank keep and pressure wont go over 40psi theres anething i can do

(Jan 26, 2015) Anonymous said:
pump does not shut off

Reply:

BK: Well pump won't stop running: try setting your pressure control to turn on at 20 psi and off at 40 psi. That should be achievable by most well pumps unless the pump itself is damaged.

Once you have the pump operating normally in that pressure range you can try increasing the cut out, or both cut-in and cut-out gradually

Don't operate the pump too close to the highest cut-out pressure that it can attain, since there is the risk that when you're not watching the system may through wear or other factors leave the pump running until it burns up.

Jack, if the pump does not start at pressures below the cut- in point of 20 psi, the switch may be bad. But the pump running continuously and never delivering cutoff pressure is something else _ such as lost well water flow rate or a well piping leak or someone has lest a faucet open in the home.

Evelio, check for a well running out of water or a worn or damaged pump impeller or low voltage to the pump motor.

Question: pump won't stop running and got very hot - my well pump won't turn off

Pump has worked fine until today for some reason it kept running after the 'timer' stopped. I didn't notice for a while and by the time I got to the pump, it was really hot. I killed the power and water/steam shot out of a PVC pipe on the bottom. If I plug it in, it won't stop running.

I turned the timer on and tried to send water to a sprinkler zone to no avail. Please help! - pumpwontstop 6/17/11

I have been having a problem with my well for a couple years now with it staying running. I hired a well guy and he told me it was a 30 year old system and it needed to be replaced, so i started to replace things and it has fixed some problems, but has cause others.

We replaced the air tank, pressure control switch, the run capacitor, and the start cylinder.

When we turn it on after about 4 hours it will run for 5 to 10 min, but if we let it sit off for 8 hours or even 10 hours it will run for 15 to 20 min. I have no clue what is going on and seeing if someone could help.

Also as I was down at the well, and it was turned on their was some sloshing in the system as it starts and turns off. If you need any more details just ask. - Mike 7/25/12

Reply:

If your well pump won't stop running and it is delivering water then I suspect that the pump is unable to reach the cut-off pressure.

That can happen for a variety of reasons like loss of water in the well, a well piping leak, water running somewhere that you didn't realize, a pressure switch set too high, or a damaged pressure sensor component of the pressure control switch.

see WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING for a thorough diagnostic procedure

Ed:

If the pump runs all the time even when you turn OFF water from the pressure tank into the building, then since you've excluded the control itself:

- the pressure sensing port on the pressure switch may not be seeing actual water pressure if the small diameter tube or pipe feeding pressure to the switch is clogged

- you may have a leak in well piping in the well or in the ground between house and well.

- you may have a damaged pump impeller that is not developing enough pressure to reach switch cutoff

- or something else

Hi Mike. It sounds as if perhaps you are losing well prime back down into the well - could be a bad foot valve - or a leak in the well piping.

Is the pump in the well or above ground? If above ground, is it a one line or two line jet pump?

Followup from Mike:

the pump is in the well about 600 ft down how do i find a leak that far down or where is the foot valve in the pump? thank you for answering me fast

Reply:

Mike, first establish that there is a leak, and in what segment of the whole system it exists - say in the building vs between the water pressure tank and the bottom of the well.

If it appears that the leak is in the well piping and if the leak is in the well piping that's in the well itself (as opposed to between well and building) you're in luck because you can pull the whole well piping and pump (use a professional to do this) to find and repair the leak as well as replace the foot valve.

If the leak is between house and well then unfortunately excavation is in order.

If the leak in the well pipe is in the well and is between the water surface and well top, you'll hear or even see water squirting out of the leak when the pump is running; if it's under-water you may never see it without pulling the line.

All of this means that you start by determining that the leak is between house and well.

Search InspectApedia for

"find leak in well piping" to find our diagnostic article

Question: my pump would not stop running - the tech says I need a new drilled well

My pump began running non stop and when the well person came out they said they were able to set psi to 38 and the pump would shut off correctly however most likely the jet is plugged or a hole in casing for it to change suddenly and It will eventually just quit.

Does this sound correct. It is now functioning fine at 38 psi but I am concerned since winter is coming and I shoul get a well drilled now. I am not planning in investing in repair if it needs repair because it's an old 2" - Amanda 8/26/12

Reply:

Amanda I don't understand the question you are asking. A hole in a well casing may admit dirt and contaminants and might speed up clogging of the well screen on a foot valve or pump pickup; But some more accurate diagnosis is needed before drilling a new well.

Pump Control Switch Air / Water Tube Use & Connections

On 2016-09-02 by (mod) - where to hook up the air tube on to the pump or control switch

Bubba:

All pressure control switches need a connection to a pipe or tube that conducts water pressure from the water system to the pressure sensor port on the switch.

Actually the tube (or small diameter rigid pipe or pipe nipple) will normally contain water, not air, though a bit of air in the tube usually won't affect the switch operation.

The instructions that came with your particular switch will show where that connection is located: usually it's on the switch bottom plate and usually it's a simple 1/8" or at most 1/4" NPT threaded fitting.

Find the old pressure tube or pipe to which your prior switch was connected, and connect that to the new switch.

Pressure switches usually mount in one of two ways: either the switch is mounted directly to the pressure communicating tube or pipe - in that case a 1/4"or 1/8" npt rigid pipe, typicaly 1-4" long.

The switch mounts on the exposed end of the pipe (properly called a nipple as it's short and threaded), and the other end of that nipple is screwed into the pump or piping where it can receive water and thus pressure.

Other pressure switches are bolted to the pump through a bolt or screw fitting, or may be mounted anywhere nearby.

On those switches a flexible tube, either flexible copper tubing on older systems or plastic on newer systems, connects to the pump or piping and to the switch to convey water pressure.

On 2016-09-01 by Bubba

Changed brands of pump where do I hook the tubings have air control valve on tank where do's it mount on a Pentair pump .

where does the tubings go one on bottom of regulator and where does one from regulator mount O pump ?

...


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Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

On 2020-01-23 by (mod) -

Damen some good diagnostics for a pump that can't reach cut-off pressure are at

TABLE 3: PUMP RUNS, NO WATER or INSUFFICIENT WATER

and at

WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING

On 2020-01-23 by Damen

My pump recently burned up and i replaced it now that I have a brand new pump installed the pressure won't exceed roughly 30 psi and the pump won't shut off

so I have to turn it off at the breaker when I turn it off I lose all pressure dropping to zero quickly anyone got any ideas I'm using a 1/2 Hp jet pump the same as was in it before thanx for any help

On 2017-04-06 by (mod) -

Bob

ypically switches are 20/40 or 30/50 and are adjustable to those other pressures.

Wherever you end up it will be best to set the pressure tank pre-charge (pump off, water drained) to 2 psi below the CUT-IN pressure you're using.

On 2017-04-06 by (mod) - pump can't reach above 20 psi

Nick:

If your pump can't reach above 20 psi the best diagnostics you'll find are probably at WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING

On 2017-04-06 by Bob

I am going to replace my 30/60 switch to a 30/50 switch. With No pressure on the system my air tank with bladder reads about 24psi is tha sufficient or do I need to add air to my tank?


On 2016-07-14 by (mod) -

Not quite so, C. Fox.

Yes air can enter the pressure tank and piping system when new pipes or pressure tank or other piping are installed on a water pump and tank system.

If there is excess air - beyond what the system needs, normally that air will flow out at plumbing fixtures when water is run. Search InspectApedia.com for AIR DISCHARGE at FIXTURES to read details.

Water tanks that do not use an internal bladder use an air volume control (AVC) that is designed to purge excess air or to insert air when there is insufficient air.

Water tanks that DO use an internal bladder keep air and water separated; air entering that tank through the incoming water piping will be discharged onwards to the plumbing fixtures as the tank bladder empties out during use of the system.

If there is not enough air (resulting in pump short cycling),

WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD explains how to correct that problem.

So in reply to your "what should be done" in nearly all situations, nothing special. After working on the pump, well, tank, piping, or water system, run water at plumbing fixtures (with faucet strainer removed) to flush out debris and excess air. If the well piping and pump or foot valve were pulled and replaced in the well, it's also good practice to sanitize the well.

Search InspectApedia for WELL SHOCKING PROCEDURE to see how to do that.

On 2016-07-14 by C Fox -

on C. Fox said:
When working on the water system, air can get into the line, and into the water held in the pressure tank. In this video, the repairman says this can be a big problem:

This makes sense - if air is trapped a working pressure tank on top of the water, the amount of water actually in the pressure tank will displaced by the air above that water. This will reduce the usefulness of the pressure tank.

When replacing parts in the water line, such as the pressure switch or gauge, or making other repairs that allow air into the line, what should be done? Should the air pressure on the air side of the tank be released, as in this video, and then re-pressurized after the water is admitted to the tank? Will the air above the water on the water side of the tank eventually come out as the tank cycles? In that case, we shouldn't worry about it?

On 2016-05-14 by (mod) - DAB Active EI 25/30 M pump cuts in only now and again

Pat I can't tell from just your question as phrased whether the pump is not operating properly or not. If you mean that sometimes you are losing water pressure completely without the pump cutting in, search InspectApedia for

PUMP WON'T START for suggestions.

If you mean that the pump seems slow to cut in - but not always - I'd look for a debris-clogged pressure control switch.

On 2016-05-13 by Pat

my DAB Active EI 25/30 M pump cuts in only now and again at times in shower for five minutes before pump cuts in, Is my set pressure setting wrong? What should it be set at?

On 2014-06-08 1 by Alan Cox

I had a 20 gallon well pressure tank to rust out and replaced it. I followed the instructions and tested the tank, the pre-charge was 38 psi,

My pressure switch is a Square D that shows on/off pressure of 40/60. My water runs fine for about 3 to 5 gallons then it just stops for about 3 to 5 seconds until the pump kicks in and

then I get plenty of water.

Since everything was working well before the tank replacement would that indicate that my problem is the pre-charge pressure is too high? I have no way of knowing if the factory 40/60 was ever adjusted.

Should I try to adjust the pressure switch or reduce the tank pre-charge pressure a little? Thanks.

On 2014-02-10 by (mod) - dirt-clogged pressure switch sensor

NP, just guessing from so little information, but I'd look for a dirt-clogged pressure switch sensor or burned contacts. A pump can also act this way if the water outlet is blocked - e.g. from a dirty water filter.

On 2014-02-10 by NP

My pump will turn on then instantly off and then on again and perform correctly after .
Always the quick on then off before doing its job, it is like a stutter, what would cause this?

Water Pressure Lost Completely

moved to WATER PUMP WON'T START


...

Continue reading at WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUST FAQs2 - second set of questions & answers on adjusting the well pump control switch

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