More water or well pump pressure control switch FAQs:
Second set of questions and answers on how to adjust the pressure control switch for a water or well pump.
This article series answers commonly-asked questions about how to adjust a well pump or water pump pressure control switch. We provide pump pressure setting advice, procedures & questions & answers about adjusting the pump switch.
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Watch out: SAFETY WARNING OF FATAL SHOCK HAZARD: if you remove the cover of the pump pressure control switch you can get access to the two nuts that adjust the operating pressures of the water pump.
But watch out! There are also live electrical contacts exposed in this area. If you touch them, especially being near water piping, there is a serious risk of death by electrocution.
Watch what you touch, or have a professional plumber or electrician do this job for you.
The individual well pump control switch repair article links below explain exactly how to set the water pump pressure switch, where the adjustments are located (the large and small nut found under the switch cover), which way to turn the nuts to increase or decrease the pump cut-in and cut-out pressures, and other pressure switch troubleshooting and repair procedures
[Click to enlarge any image]
These questions were posted originally at WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS - be sure to see that article if you need to adjust the settings on your pressure control switch for your water pump or well pump.
The individual well pump control switch repair article links below explain exactly how to set the water pump pressure switch, where the adjustments are located (the large and small nut found under the switch cover), which way to turn the nuts to increase or decrease the pump cut-in and cut-out pressures, and other pressure switch troubleshooting and repair procedures
I have just replaced all parts between the well pump and the pipe going into the house, reason was I had a leak and a broken check valve so the system was sucking in air and letting the water reside back down into the well.
My issue now is, that I have a cut in at 38 PSI, and should have a 20 PSI delta, however the Presure Switch does not turn off until 66 PSI. I have adjusted the big nut to get the cut in down to 38, used to be higher, however I an not able to get the pump to turn off at 58 / 60 PSI.
The little nut is released to the point where the spring is almost loose, any suggestions or do I have a "Old" faulty pressure switch and need to replace it?
I have put in new pressure tank and the pump runs approx 3 min from when it kicks in at 38 PSI, to it has put pressure on the systems to 66 PSI, however if we have 2 faucets open at the same time the system struggles to get to 66 PSI - Thomas 9/1/11
Here is a little info I gathered, from what I have read mine system seems like it has some poor adjustments:
I have a Square D 9013FSQ2 Pressure Switch I checked my cut-in which is 58lbs and cut-out at 69 lbs and i put a tire guage on my pressure tank and it read 70 lbs seems a little crazy. I have a submersible pump at a depth of 120'. I am going to replace the pressure switch since I feel that is my breaker popping problem.
But with these readings I have bad adjustments. it has been like this for almost 11 years now, just dont want future problems. Could someone help me with what all these settings should be and best way to adjust them. I like higher pressure for watering lawn etc. but dont want problems. - David 11/5/11
(Nov 4, 2014) frankjardin@gmail.com said:
What are the reneges of 30- 50 can you lower the hight side to 40 psi
Thomas
I wonder if you carried the adjustment too far. Typically residential switches run 20/40 or 30/50 psi.
Check the labels and instructions that are on your switch to be double sure it works the same way as the models I've described above.
It isn't odd for a pump to run continuously when multiple faucets are open - it's a function of the pump's ability to deliver water (gpm, or pump horsepower) AND the well flow rate.
Yes, Frank.
On a typical pressure control switch rated for 30-50 you could lower the cut-out to 40 psi - you might also want to lower the cut-in down closer to 20 so as to minimize short cycling the pump
think I have all that adjusted correctly but I have a small water leak at the pressure switch.... I'm assuming there is a gasket in there that needs to be changed? am I right? - Kerry 9.14/11
water is leaking up through the base of the pressure switch. what did I do wrong? - Jerry Jandreau 7/2/12
Check the bottom of the switch for plumbing leaks. If there are no leaks at pipe connections I suspect the switch diaphragm is ruptured - replace the switch.
I am replacing the control switch on my pump. My question is does the small line (1/4") running from the pump to the switch have to be filled with water? will an air gap cause pressure reading problems? - John O 9/25/11
John O I wondered the same thing - does the small diameter copper or plastic tubing connecting the pressure sensor base of the pressure control switch to the water pump (or pressure tank) need to be filled with water or not? It should not make any difference. The pressure switch senses pressure by water or air pressing in on a diaphraghm located on the switch bottom.
The diaphraghm doesn't know if it's being pressed-on by air or water. If the water pressure in the tank is, say 30 psi, the air in the line will also be compressed to 30 psi.
Should there be water in my water pressure tank? - Paul 10/3/11
Paul:
If your pressure tank is a type that uses an internal bladder, it may be nearly empty at the bottom of the pumping cycle - that is, at the point that your pump turns on.
If your water pressure tank is a bladdeless steel or fiberglass unit, then normally there will be some water in the tank bottom even at the end of the pumping cycle.
Select one of these articles to get the right amount of water and air in your pressure tank:
STEEL WATER TANKS, BLADDERLESS
WATER TANK AIR VOLUME CONTROL REPAIR
WATER TANK BLADDER PRESSURE ADJUST
I have just fitted a new borehole pum and a new pressure vessel. The pump runs then cuts off at 3 bar on the pressure guage. There dosn't appear to be any water in the bladder at all.
The pressure vessel is at just over 2 bar. When I released pressure form the vessel the pressure at the switch dropped as well. Water does flow but there is no water in the tank. How do I set the system so the tank fills. - Nick 3/14/12
If the pressure control switch does not respond to changes in water pressure, and assuming the switch and pump have power, check for a debris-clogged pressure control switch. The same problem may be plaguing the stuck pressure gauge
If the pump runs but you get no water then there is a different problem: no well water, well piping leak, etc.
SeeWELL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS
Is it true that Preasure pumps fitted in a house with one floor only spoils the washing machine,water heater etc and presure pumps should not be used for such one floored house. - K Sriram
14 Feb 2015 Doug said:
When checking or adding pressure to bladder style tank should the pressure be set a few pounds below the set on pressure (40-60) switch (38) or should it be set at the higher level around (58) ?
Seems to be a water hammer effect as pump shuts off at (58)
Doug
K Sriram
I cannot undertand any reason why a well water pump would damage plumbing in a one story house in some way related to the house height. The pressure operating range - 20-40 psi or 30-50 psi is within the normal operating range of plumbing fixtures and appliances.
In other words, No not in any way I can see. Maybe there is some condition someone knows about that we've never come across??
Watch out: other water pressure variations such as that caused by water hammer can indeed damage appliances, piping, controls, valves, etc. Details are
at WATER HAMMER NOISE DIAGNOSE & CURE
Doug, in addition to looking into and addressing the water hammer noise, you want to
see WATER TANK BLADDER PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
Moved to SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP
...
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