Private well water problem diagnosis:
How to diagnose poor well water pressure or total loss of water pressure: this article explains how and why to distinguish among intermittent water pressure loss, total water pressure loss, and poor water pressure or flow in a building.
We give diagnostic and repair procedures for both municipal water supply problems and well water supply problems.
The process of diagnosis and the costs of the repair are explained. Consumer advice on saving money on water supply repair costs includes a review of the parts and labor costs of a typical well pump and pressure tank replacement case.
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The following articles pertain if you have a private well, pump, and tank system for your building or if your incoming community water supply pressure and flow are just too low to start with:
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
On 2023-04-02 by (mod) - diagnose why cold water pressure is poor but Hot OK
Please find our discussion and your photos now
at CLOGGED SUPPLY PIPES, COLD WATER
On 2023-04-02 by john m - significant drop in cold water flow, hot water flow is fine
I am on a well with a whole house sediment filter. Recently, I started seeing a drop in flow only on the cold side. Running a single faucet is fine but opening another faucet or flushing a toilet causes a significant drop in flow.
I don't see the same problem on the hot side. The well pump seems OK, turn on-turn off are still at the proper pressure settings. Well reservoir tank pressure is set to 4 PSI below well pump turn on pressure.
My guess is that I have an obstruction somewhere in the cold water distribution. The house is plumbed with CPVC. Any advice on locating an obstruction? Any other possibilities?
On 2023-01-16 by Marja
@InspectApedia Publisher, Thank you
On 2023-01-14 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod) - is pressure tank too far from pressure control switch?
@Marja,
I don't know any details of your system so my guesses may be way off, but
- the pressure tank needs to be close to the pressure control switch that turns the pump on and off
- in a typical pump and well water system the pump develops pressure to push water through the piping. You might have to prime the pump or prime well pipes between pump and well, but you wouldn't need to "prime" water pipes on the outlet side of the pump - between pump and your outbuilding.
So if you put water into that line I expect that the water you got back out was just the water you put in.
I'd start by getting an experienced plumber on site to straighten out your water pressure tank, pump control, and then to let us know what else was needed.
On 2023-01-14 y Marja - water pressure lost after plumber moved the pressure tank
A person moved our basement air pressure tank to a higher location and also moved our hot water tank. That is when we lost pressure to the outbuilding. He said he could fixed it from the inside but left and never came back.
Yes, I should have mentioned that before. We primed the outbuilding line with a garden hose and got lots of water. When we shut off valve and opened the valve again we had no water again.
Out house waterline has not been affected at all. Problems with outbuilding line only.
The secondary line is 6 ft under ground. I do not know how to check for a damaged line.
On 2023-01-12 y InspectApedia Publisher (mod) - when priming the pump doesn't work
@Marja,
I need a more-complete understanding to try to come up with a useful answer.
Why are we "priming" the 100 ft. remote line to the outbuilding?
Do you have water everywhere else on the same system, just not at the outbuilding?
Have you checked for a broken or damaged or clogged 100 yard pipe (that's a rather long run) between the pump and the point of use?
On 2023-01-12 by Marja
We have 190' well. Added a 100 yard line to an outbuilding that worked fine for years.
It is just a line with a shutoff valve in shed. It stopped bringing up water.
We can prime it but it doesn't hold water once valve is shut off. What changed?
On 2022-03-25 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator (mod) - types of water pressure control switch failures
@Richard,
Possible, of course, though we don't have any scholarly data on pressure control switch reset control failure rates.
Most of the controls switch problems are
- burned or pitted contacts
- improper adjustment
- underlying well problems like low water, poor recovery rate, waterlogged pressure tank leading to - short cycling pump adding to contact wear
- debris clogging of the switch sensor port
On 2022-03-25 by Richard - confirmed bad pressure switch
@Inspectapedia Com Moderator, so had an hour to spare and removed contacts from the auto (no lever) switch and replaced them with a new set I found at local hardware store, re-installed auto (no lever) switch, we can flush toilet - run tap and shower and the switch kick on at 40psi no hesitation and off at 60 psi.
I'm wondering if the lever style switch i purchased might have been faulty??
On 2022-03-24 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator (mod) - pump kicks off too often or too soon
@Richard,
If I've got this right, the "Auto" version of a pressure control switch should be one that doesn't have to be manually re-set if the switch turns off the pump when the pump seems to be drawing air rather than water.
Give me the brand and switch model so I can be sure we're on the same page.
Your comment
I can run shower, sinks and toilet separately but now cannot flush and run sink at same time without pump switch kicking off
OFF sounds as if the pump is sucking air from the well and the switch turns it off to avoid damaging the pump.
So there may be a problem of loss of well-water (flow or recovery rate have reduced) or a leak in well piping;
Take a look at AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES
and at
WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH
and in the Article Index you'll find other diagnostic articles such as how to check the flow rate of your well and its recovery rate.
On 2022-03-24 by Richard
I had an automatic pressure switch (40/60) with bladder at 38psi (empty) about a week ago had no water checked volts/amps and capacitor (typical me being an electrician LOL) all good, cleaned contacts and unit worked for a few days,
quit again so purchased another pressure switch manual start one as no auto ones available. I also replace short brass pipe to switch and installed new switch and turned it on then checked setting for 40/60 all good.
Now here is the strange thing I can run shower, sinks and toilet separately but now cannot flush and run sink at same time without pump switch kicking off.
Sat at tank and watched as my wife operated sink and toilet , ran sink 1st pressure went to 40 kicked on and then kicked off at 60 so both together pressure got to 40 heard something like a sucking sound and switch kicked to off position.
Have I missed a step, should I switch back to an auto type switch ? any insight with be appreciated.
On 2021-09-23 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod) - debris clogged pressure control switch
@Andrew L,
The most common cause I find for problems like the one you described is debris clogging of the sensor port on a pressure control switch.
On 2021-09-22 by Andrew L - pressure doesn't drop on gauge, but actual falls to 5 psi
200' well with 60gpm water flow, column 15 feet from top;14gpm pump with one inch line 170' down replaced 6 months ago; 100 yards to house twenty feet elevation, 86t treasure tank, 7gpm air injection filter and salt, new 40-60 pressure switch clean pipe stem works house perfectly.
30 yards from well head 1" line tees fifty yards to tee into barn, three hydrants on trunk line full pressure inside barn are two hydrants w/full pressure .3/4 line tees between two barn hydrants into tack room with 5gpm air filter system plus second 86t tank for volume.
Here is the barn problem: pressure gauge outgoing side of filter over night reaches 90lbs.
Turning on a filtered 3/4 inch water line to fill buckets running 15 minutes will drop pressure to five pounds and a trickle. Shut off the line pressure goes to 30 and holds until demand and will drop to 5 pounds; replaced the gauge!
I have checked the house gauge and pressure switch when barn is five pounds pressure is holding steady 40-60 and not dropping off to fill barn needs. Replaced the tank in barn ( bad bladder), with both pressure tanks drained of water air pressure is 38 at house and 30 at barn.
Here is the question: what could cause the pressure to drop off to five pounds or cause it to rise to 90 and second not recovering and staying anywhere near 40-60?
On 2020-10-05 by danjoefriedman (mod) - measuring pressure via garden hose?
Greg
How are you measuring water pressure? Always by the same independent gauge? And always at the same point in the water pump on-cycle?
If so the pressure will normally be the same everywhere if no water is running anywhere in the system AND if there are no leaks.
On 2020-10-05 by Greg B.
Point in time drop in well pressure (60-40 lb). Pressure tank bladder checks OK. I isolated and checked different runs of the system for constrictions - all read and hold 40 lb. I checked pressure at the well head and it holds 85+ lb.
Finally I ran a 50ft. garden hose from the well head and checked the pressure at the end of the hose - 40 lb. What gives?
On 2020-07-14 - by (mod) - what happens when we leave water running for much too long?
Audrey
From what I can read in your note, we have the following concerns:
We surely would agree that if you've given the well plenty of time to recover its water and you still have poor or no water pressure then most likely there's something feels wrong.
It's not the most common but one possibility is this: On occasion we can exhaust a well and it does not recover - for example the water table has dropped. To continue this digression I've seen that happen in Mexico when a large factory farm moved into an area where they were small farms. The factory farm pump so much water and drop the aquifer so far that the local Wells all simply with dry. You can drive down the highway and see all the dead trees.
It's also the case that you could still have a leak or water running somewhere that you haven't found
But the most likely explanation is the running your pump continuously for a very long time may have damaged the pump impeller or motor so the pump simply can't deliver water under is fishing pressure. On occasion the impeller can be cleaned cleared or repaired. Or the problem could be with the pump motor itself.
See also WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLE STOP VALVE
On 2020-07-14 by Audrey
OK, this is my problem. Woke up on 4th of July with very low water pressure. Could not find a leak. Shut off power to well and called a well man. Did a pressure test at the wellhead and said pressure was slowly rising but struggling from a possible leak. Fast forward, found a hose to the end of the property got turned on and ran all night from around 7 pm to 10 am.
Pressure came back up and cycled like it should. Well man said to let it rest for a couple of hours. Actually let it rest for a couple of days. Before all this, had great water pressure, could run a full washer and water pressure would be up. Now, water slows down to a trickle when filling the washing machine.
I don't know how old the pump, or pressure tank is, was here when I moved here 13 years ago. New pressure switch approximately 5 years ago. Tank is under house and can't exactly reach it to check the tank. When you take a shower now, you can feel the water pressure kick on which it didn't do previously.
Meaning, I can feel the well kick on because water pressure goes back up. I can hear the pressure switch short cycling, which I never did before. I can by pass all of this if it's the tank. I have a new setup, which includes a CSV (cycle stop valve) and a new small bladder tank. I just need to know if it's my pump. Like I said, don't know the age of it.
The well guy who was here cost me $300 for the hour and a half he was here on the holiday. If it is the pump, need to find a reasonable well company that isn't going to charge me 5K to change the pump. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
On 2020-06-17 - by (mod) - pressure not increasing in the water tank
Said
Here are a few things to check.
First let's see if the tank happens to be waterlogged or filled with water.
If a tank is very light and easily moved it's probably not but if it's heavy and you can't juggle it even the least bit it may be filled with water and have lost its air charge.
Next if the tank was working normally before your new pump and is not accepting water now it's possible that a valve between the pump outlet and the tank has been locked closed.
I know y'all though we've discussed this with pressure tanks that use an internal bladder and we've set the bladder can become stuck to itself it's also possible that there can be a debris clock or blockage of the inlet to a non bladder type pressure tank such as yours.
When you say that the tank is not receiving any water, is there an air valve on the tank itself that you can use to check the pressure in the tank at that time?
On 2020-06-17 by
New pump water is flowing but tank not getting pressure straight tank not a bladder
On 2020-06-02 - by (mod) - can't get water pressure above 17 psi
Anon
Let's start with the diagnostics in the ARTICLE INDEX under
PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING
On 2020-06-01 by Anonymous
two line system, new pump and jet. no links, holds pressure but will only pump up 17 lbs of pressure
On 2020-05-13 - by (mod) - pressure falls off when running water
Geoff
I'll be glad to assist;
Let's start with a step through the diagnostics at WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Pump_Runs_On.php
as that offers a more-orderly and more-complete set of diagnostic steps than if I try to invent that information again from memory.
Please take a look, let me know what you think, try some of the basic diagnostics like checking voltage and checking pump operation and looking for leaks, and looking at the actual water level and flow rate in the well, and the depth of the static head in the well, and we'll continue from there.
On 2020-05-13 by Geoff Gee.
Hi I need help, I live in the Philippines, and currently because of the Virus, very very difficult to find help, and parts, really at anytime, however as an Engineer and a DIY retired person, I had to tackle the problem myself.
For a few months we had been experiencing continual running pump which would not reach max pressure, so after a few very high Electrical bills I decided to tackle the problem.
System Single line deep well system horizontal 1hp pump, 2" main line pipe with single line inside, before I started I had no idea the diameter of the inside pipe, or what was on the end, check valve of Jet foot valve, after I started to work I found out it was 1" internal steel Pipe, and I think only a check valve, as we never got it out of the hole, because of the Leather washers, which as you know it is almost impossible to remove those once installed, mind unless you can tell me a way to do it.
My diagnostics to my original problem, showed either a problem on the pump, or foot valve/check valve.
Before I started the whole system in the house was checked, everything in the house worked good, no leaks, pressure ok. So I decided to take it apart,
Pump had a cracked blade in the pump, also very cheap pump, so I decided to pull the pipe, very very very difficult, as I think you will agree,those dam leather washers, after two days I finally got the pipe out, but lost the Foot Valve/check valve.
FYI I welded an extension to the pipe, and knocked the valve down into the well.
I replaced the Pipe with 11/4" PVC pipe with a Packer Jet foot valve, and a Gould 1HP J10+ Pump, very expensive by Philippine standards.
Now here is my problem pump works good, goes to 40/50psi no problems, holds its pressure good, But everything in the house and the garden, turn on for example the shower, tons of pressure, works good but slowly the pressure drops off, turn the shower off, wait a few minutes and try again works good, so go out to the pump, check the pressure, its good 43psi, run the garden facet, which is beside the pump house, starts great lots of pressure, but like the shower slowly looses pressure,
BUT the tank is still holding at about 20/30psi, if you let it run long enough it will go down to about 5/10psi, close the facet, and quickly goes to 40+psi.and switches off, and holds.
Any ideas???
On 2020-04-23 - by (mod) -
Brian
The most common problems will be
- loss of prime - leaky check valve
- a leak anywhere in the piping
- you are trying to lift water more than 25 ft.
On 2020-04-22 07:28:44.179430 by Brian
Just installed a new shallow well pump. I have no footvalve but a check valve between well & suction.
I cannot seem to get water up to the valve - prime the pump.
Help! Thanks :)
On 2020-01-04 - by (mod) -
If the elevations are all the same then the difference is more likely to be due to clogged pipes or a partly closed valve or clogged elbow in piping.
On 2019-12-30 by Anonymous
My water pressure in the kitchen is great but my end of the house the toilet sink or shower none work however on the other end of house it's fine.. it's like the pipes on my end don't even try to draw any water..Pls help
On 2019-11-17 - by (mod) - effect on water pressure when old galvanized iron pipes are clogged
Jeff:
Indeed it's usually bills old galvanized pipes that are the ones that are most clogged, with both rust and scale. It would be interesting to see photos of what you're working on and if you cut one of those old pipes and 1/2 let's take a look at and photograph the cross-section so we can see just what it looks like.
Our full conversation is now found at WELL WATER PRESSSURE DIAGNOSIS FAQs-3
https://inspectapedia.com/water/Private-Well-Pressure-Diagnosis-FAQs3.php
On 2019-11-17 by Jeff
Thanks, Both hot and cold flow rate are about the same.
I’m getting around 20 GPM at the softener (almost filled a 4 Gal bucket in 11 seconds), and replaced everything up to the split to the WH. The steel pipes were pretty clear, so no change.
Since I first posted this, one run in the house has gotten even worse, so I’m replacing everything in that run with pex over the next few days. It’s rather a mess in a crawl space, with pvc, galvanized, and a little bit of pex.
On2017-03-05 by (mod)
See PRIVATE WELL PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS - above on this page - for help diagnosing weak or no water pressure, as there could be any of several causes.
On2017-03-04 by Daniel Solomon
The pump power is weak, as the sound justifies and no water is pumped up.
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Continue reading at WELL WATER PRESSURE IMPROVEMENT - steps to improve water pressure & flow from a private well water supply, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
Or see WELL WATER PRESSSURE DIAGNOSIS FAQs questions & answers about troubleshooting bad well water pressure posted originally at the end of this page.
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