Structural column defects:
This article explains how to notice defective, damaged, improperly supported, or missing structural columns, and other structural column & pier mistakes.
Here we will discuss missing structural column or post footings & piers, missing Lally columns that were removed during remodeling, use of temporary columns & jackposts, Improper bearing support at Lallys & teleposts. We include photographs of structural column mistakes.
We explain how to evaluate rust damage to steel columns, posts, adjustable columns in homes,
Our page top photo shows a telepost used as a "permanent" supporting column. Most models of teleposts or "jackposts" are thin-walled steel and are not designed for permanent use. And all columns require proper bearing support at both the column top and bottom. This leaning, cockeyed jackpost is a structural collapse waiting to happen.
Detecting omissions, such as leaving out a column or it's pier or footing is an important step in learning how to recognize and diagnose various types of foundation failure or damage, such as foundation cracks, masonry foundation crack patterns, and moving, leaning, bulging, or bowing building foundation walls.
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This article describes a structural column defects in residential buildings. Larger structures using supporting columns and piers certainly require additional professional design from a civil or structural engineer or similar design professional.
Watch out: Some of these residential column or post defects are dangerous and risk collapse.
But do not fail to pay careful attention to the structural connections themselves: connections between posts and beams, posts and piers, beams and the floors or ceilings they support.
Connection failure is often the weak link in residential structural movement and collapse.
See DECK COLLAPSE Case Study for an example.
FYI we call a 6-inch concrete filled steel column a Lally column after its inventor.
Some folks call these just steel columns, or lolly columns or steel posts.
Our photos below show a proper use of a temporary column, telepost, or jackpost - that gray screw-jack to the right of the white-painted steel column I am touching.
The second photo at right shows why the temporary column was put in place: the hollow steel column supporting this beam had rusted through at its base, risking collapse.
Watch out: The collapse of a structural steel column is increased if the column is hollow, rather than concrete-filled.
However what you see in the photographs above is a temporary repair.
The rusted steel column should be replaced with a structural column such as a concrete filled steel Lally column that is rated for permanent use.
Our next structural column photo (above ) shows a thin-walled adjustable column in use in a wet crawl area. The repair contractor installed gravel and then plastic to keep moisture levels down in the crawl space.
(The post is probably not out of plumb, that was a tilt in the camera when I shot this photo.)
But notice that the column extends down through the gravel into the presumably wet surface beneath.
Consider that the end of the column is now hidden from view in gravel, that we think this is a recurrent wet area, we can't see if it's wet or not, and more, because this is a tight crawl space, people won't enter it very often to inspect conditions there.
A more durable repair would have been a Lally column. Some builders even prefer to use a pressure treated wood 4x4 post in this sort of location, arguing that it is "rustproof".
Shown here, some adjustable screw jacks or teleposts such as some Read-I-Post columns are constructed of a heavier-gauge steel and in some jurisdictions they may be approved for permanent use in structures.
Often where an adjustable column is permitted for permanent structural use, once it has been properly adjusted in height, its adjusting rod is removed and the screw is tack-welded in place.
Notice that the installer took care to bolt the Red-I-Post top plate to the beam underside. Let's hope that the beam itself is secured to the floor joists overhead and is protected against lateral movement.
Our photo (above left) shows a basement girder supported by cute little 2-inch pipes.
We think the installer knew these were not structural-components, because s/he installed these toy "faux-structural" pipes on 5-foot centers.
See our page top photo for an example of a horrible installation of a jackpost that is likely to collapse.
Below are more examples of improper telepost installations. At below left we have inadequate bearing surface and no connection between the steel bearing plate and the joist underside.
It looks as if the post may also be out of plumb. Boing!
Our second dangerous telepost photo at above right you can see that the post top screw has bent the steel plate as it pushed into the beam, and the whole assembly is slipping off of the beam and moving to the right.
Some installers place screw jacks or teleposts with the screw down against the concrete floor or pier top.
That allows the larger-diameter post "bottom" to be placed up against a steel plate and against the underside of the beam.
This "upside down" installation reduces the chances of bending the steel supporting plate and it also places the thick steel screw down on the (often wet) basement or crawl space floor.
The thicker steel screw is slower to rust through to the point of collapse than is the thin-walled hollow steel pipe that forms the body of most teleposts.
It seems obvious that in addition to spacing requirements for supporting steel columns below beams (typically a steel column is placed every eight feet on center in a wood frame two story residential structure), you would also place the column below any splices in the beam.
But a splice in a structural beam also needs resistance to bending upwards. Look closely (click any of our images to see a larger view) and you'll see some nice wood putty in that opening splice joint.
The splice shown in our photo of a home in Portland ME would probably not have bent if it had been located below that floor joist to the right, and had the supporting column placed below the splice as well as below the joists.
As we also discuss at EARTHQUAKE DAMAGED FOUNDATIONS, defective supporting columns failed at Northridge Meadows during that 1994 earthquake.
It appears that hollow 6" pipes were substituted for concrete filled steel Lally columns under part of the building. Once the fireproofing wrap was installed it was not possible to spot this shortcut by visual inspection.
The hollow columns failed, permitting the upper floors of the structure to collapse. There were fatalities.
Here are examples of types of omission that contributed to a structural collapse. During our work at the Northridge Earthquake site in California in 1994 we noticed that some of the supporting Lally columns were hollow rather than concrete filled.
Perhaps due to material shortages or rush during construction, these hollow, and weaker supporting columns were wrapped with a fire-barrier just as were the "real" supporting columns used elsewhere.
Our photos show a section of Northridge Meadows which collapsed during the earthquake.
In thissecond Northridge Meadows building collapse photograph just above you can see that this column was hollow.
Our opinion was that these were defective columns and that they were a factor in the structural collapse during the Northridge earthquake.
Other areas of the same complex moved, columns even leaned, but they did not collapse where the columns were of the proper type and were properly connected to the structure.
Other factors in the collapse appeared to include how exterior sheathing had been nailed across or not across certain sections of the building supporting walls. Our list of examples of defects of omission during foundation construction continues below.
See EARTHQUAKE DAMAGED FOUNDATIONS for more about the defective supporting columns that failed at Northridge Meadows during that 1994 earthquake.
Our editor Amy's photo illustrates just above, a badly leaning column whose job was to support a porch roof and possibly porch floor structure as well may risk a serious structural collapse at this home in Great Falls, Montana (August 2024 - A.C.).
We think this column is perhaps 8-inches or more out of plumb over roughly five feet of height - a serious condition.
Our orange arrows point to the shift to the right of the bottom of the upper column section and the larger shift to the right of the top of the lower column segment. Of course we can't see behind that siding to know just what the column materials are.
We dropped a red plumb line onto the photo to let you see that the upper column and the support bracket under the porch roof are themselves now out of plumb as the supporting column has leaned badly to the right.
We don't have a view of the porch and porch roof structure themselves so we don't know their material, dimensions, condition, connections etc., but we do have one clue that may help explain why this porch column base is leaning so terribly to the right.
Notice the long downspout extension running off to the right in our photo (yellow arrow)? Someone has taken trouble to try to get roof drainage away from that corner of the home.
Spilling roof runoff by or close to the base of a supporting column, particularly if the column doesn't have a solid masonry or concrete pier extending below the frost line, can undermine the column bottom end and lead to the pendign disaster suggested by this picture.
See also
ROOF BENDING, SAGGING, COLLAPSE - a defective support column can lead to a roof collapse.
"Missing" column footings or piers may or may not be a defect depending on design and soil conditions. In some jurisdictions, a poured concrete floor slab may be considered of sufficient thickness and strength to support the column.
Of course one cannot, without special equipment, "see" through a concrete slab to determine whether or not a pier was provided or required below a post.
But in some instances there will be compelling evidence of a missing pier under the slab.
Failure to compact the soil under a column pier or footing or under a poured concrete slab which has been placed on backfill can result in column settlement.
Our client is pointing to a supporting column in a location where we suspect that crack pattern around the column, combined with a slight but observable depression at the column base area suggests its pier may be settling.
When we see a column whose base penetrates the concrete floor slab we know the floor was poured around the column - the column was put in place first. We can't see if a proper pier was installed to support the column base - as is usually the case.
Perhaps in the installation we show here, the builder set a 4-inch solid concrete block on (poorly-compacted) fill inside the building foundation, set his post on that, and jacked away. When the fill settles the block settles too, and the column may move downwards, cracking the concrete floor around its base in the pattern we show here.
Also see FOUNDATION DEFECTS OF OMISSION - MISSING
Illustration: excerpted from NCMA's concrete column design cited below.
Watch out: local building regulations vary, and in areas of special risk such as hillsides or seismic zones, additional masonry column contruction requirements such as spacing, anchor bolts, and lateral ties are likey to be imposed.
Missing or Improperly-Removed Structural Columns & Posts
This topic has moved to a separate article now found at COLUMN / POST MISSING - separate article
Watch out: in a structural brick wall-built building, if one or more main beams lose their support, sag, and collapse, there is a high risk of a total catastrophic structural collapse.
Evaluate Rusted Steel Structural Columns & Posts
Please see COLUMN / POST RUST DAMAGE where we have moved and expanded the discussion of rust or dent damage to structural steel columns, posts, or jackposts.
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
On 2023-04-21 by Kenny: New Basement Posts - Significant Settlement / Sinking Damage Assessment?
Kenny said
New Basement Posts - Significant Settlement / Sinking Damage Assessment?
We live in northeast Missouri in a double wide on a walk out basement. We have lived in our home for 15 years. The home was already here when we bought it from a gentleman after he purchased through foreclosure.
About 3 years ago, we paid Foundation Recovery Systems to place french drain system, a large sump pump, whole house dehumidifier, wall anchors, and to replace the center supports.
We spent around $38,000 in two separate transactions. We then paid a separate contractor $10,000 to replace the windows and french door on the wooden walkout wide due to damage from water.
We are now left with issues of the center support beams not properly supported and the house is shifting, cabinets pulling away from the walls upstairs, floors uneven, new cracks in the walls, and enlarging gaps in the vaulted ceiling peak.
Foundation Recovery finally hired an engineer and the report is minimal compared to what the engineer said to us during the walk-through. It appears the new basements posts have settled too far causing the frame to be improperly supported, flattening out the roof.
His recommendation is to jack up the supports again. My basement floor is now chopped up with the many drains added, and I am very concerned about what is happening up above my home. Are the trusses broken? Will my roof start leaking. We need some advise please.
On 2023-04-21 y InspectApedia Publisher (mod) - New Basement Posts - Significant Settlement / Sinking Damage Assessment?
@Kenny
It sounds as if you've got a reasonable diagnosis of the movement problem-cause: improper construction of the supporting posts, perhaps because they were not set on adequate footings and/or were placed on soft soil or fill.
About your worry about the roof trusses, it is a reasonable concern, particularly if your roof is framed with trusses whose members are joined together by steel pressed-on truss plates.
At https://inspectapedia.com/structure/Floor_or_Roof_Trusses.php TRUSSES, FLOOR & ROOF
you'll see photos of various types of truss damage that can be easily seen by direct visual inspection: that might be a place to start addressing that concern.
Let me know where you are in this matter and what questions remain and if we can be of further help we'll do what we can.Keep in mind that no remote text exchange can substitute for an onsite expert but often we can help you understand what you're seeing or what you're being told.
On 2023-02-14 by AS - Evaluate significant checking on the column of my 1910 house
Im planning on finishing the basement of my house (1910's) and one item of concern for me is one of the original columns for the house.
It has significant checking on one face of the 6x6. It does not pass through the post but it would be something I would like to address before progressing.
My initial plan is to put up 2x6 walls along the beam to give extra support but if it requires replacement I would like to do that now.
Would a 2x6 wall provide enough support or would it require additional sistering/replacement?
On 2023-02-14 by InspectApedia Editor (mod) - be sure of the post-to-beam structural connection
@AS,
That looks like normal beam checking and not cause for concern unless a crack is compromising a structural connector whichcould be possible where there is a lot of splitting at the top of the post.
I can't see any structural connectors such as steel strapping or angle brackets between the post sides and the sides of the beam it supports. It might be just toe-nailed up into or down from the beam (ok but not really enough), or there may be nothing.
Adding post-to-beam structural connectors is inexpensive and easy, within the scope of a slightly handy home inspector who can hammer nails or drive screws.
Both of these articles will provide a more thorough discussion on this topic
EVALUATE CRACKS & SPLITS IN WOOD BEAMS OR POSTS
and
REPAIR CRACKS & SPLITS IN WOOD BEAMS OR POSTSMy opinion is that a 2x6 wall or adding a sister post would add support but isn't necessary.
After seeing the recommended articles, please let us know if you have additional questions.
On 2023-02-14 by AS
@InspectApedia Editor , I appreciate the fast response. We are planning on putting up a wall there anyway so this just helps my peace of mind. Thankyou for your input.
On 2022-10-29 by Brandi Is this wall crack below a steel beam fixible in a house I'm buying? Seller won't let me have an inspector look.
Hi there, Is this a fixable situation? I am interested in a house and I am unsure how bad this crack is because it is right under support beam. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
On 2022-10-29 by InspectApedia-911 (mod)
@Brandi,
I think you are showing a poured concrete foundation wall. (That's not a column failure.)
There's so much goop over the crack that I can't see it to even understand the crack pattern.
The group which may be foam or epoxy or sealant or something else suggests that someone was definitely aware of the crack was trying to solve a problem.It's possible they were trying to stop water entry.
Certainly a superficial application like that wouldn't be a structural repair.
Any such problem is repairable.
The questions are more what is the cost and what is the urgency.
We could make more useful comment if we could actually see the crack pattern.
Is it wider at the top or wider at the bottom? Are there other cracks? And we need to understand the cause and the impact on the structure before we know it's urgency.
There are many surrounding observations that need to be made to understand what's going on.
The country and city of location, the climate, the age of the building, the condition of roof runoff and surface runoff and water and frost versus settlement or heaving or clay soils.
As you see asking anyone to diagnosis they have not a shred of information about the house is like trying to inspect the house through the eye of a needle.
There would be so much speculation that the answer would not be reliable.
Surely you wouldn't buy a house without a thorough home inspection.
The home inspector should be able to tell you considerably more than we can see in this photo.
Armed with some actual information we could make more useful comments.On 2022-10-29 by Brandi - foam sealed crack in poured concrete foundation wall
@InspectApedia-911, thank you so much!
Unfortunately in the housing market in my area is so crazy that my offers are not accepted because I put in inspection. The last one, my offer was the highest and I still lost out because of it.
I hadn’t considered the pattern and was only thinking because it is right under the steel beam. There are not many other cracks. A few outside. I am in northeast PA
I wish I could inspect the houses before putting in offer but they sell in a few days and so far that hasn’t been possible. I appreciate your time to answer my question. There are 2 other cracks I could see from outside, but I didn’t think they were as bad.
On 2022-10-29 by InspectApedia-911 (mod)
@Brandi,
You don't have to make the purchase contingent on the results of a professional inspection but that should certainly not prevent you from bringing in a professional so that you know what you are buying.It's crazy to think that you should be forced to buy the most expensive purchase that most people ever make in their life without being allowed to look at it.
Watch out: OPNION: If someone refuses to permit me to actually look at the house that I was buying and to bring someone with me to help me do that then I would shop elsewhere.
Last year at one of the NYASHI remote classes I recall the engineer pointing out that there is an issue with CMU stacked too high. Just not sure what the concern was. Appreciate if you could enlighten me..
I know that in the picture there is an issue with water and an older oil tank in the basement. - DovBer Kahn
Moderator reply: questions about the column & foundation shown in this photo
Thanks for the question - it's not one on which I'm expert as I suspect the presentation you cite contained more detail than I've documented on this page.
I can't quite make out the number of blocks in your photo. Depending on the block dimensions the column may be taller than permitted for that block dimension.
But it looks as if there are 7 full blocks and one partial block (buried in the slab, with no view of the actual footing - if any)
Those blocks might be 10" x 8" x 16" or perhaps 12" x 8" x 16" making the column less than 8 ft. in height.
There are other home inspection and diagnostic questions about this building, perhaps ones you've already considered, including at least: :
- Is there reinforcement in the column and is the column connected to the overhead beam?
- Why is the block so close to what one would think is a supporting wall?
- Was the original supporting wall failing?
- Are there other columns?
- At what horizontal spacing under that large concrete beam?
- How old is the home,
- What other foundation damage is there - it's obviously a wet basement with a history of water entry through the block wall (esp. on the wall at the oil tank).
- Are that concrete beam and block column original construction or a repair?
Above on this page at
MASONRY COLUMN STRUCTURAL REQUIREMENTS you'll see the limitations on CMU column height and requirements for re-bar reinforcement - something you may have trouble seeing once construction is completed and the column is in place.
- Dov Ber Kahn, a home inspector in Rockland County, NY has contributed photographs of various building features. Mr. Kahn is a licensed home inspector in New York and New Jersey, and can be reached at Website: Kahnbhomeinspectors, Tel: 845-445-8234, Email: kdovber@googlemail.com
On 2020-07-15 by Graham - Concrete-filled steel lally column OK to use Outdoors ?
Hi,
We have had some drawings back from the structural engineer which have a metal post on it to help support a steel on the ground floor.
The builder said that he is not keen on using a metal post and would rather build a brick pier as the metal tends to allow moisture to rise up from the ground level into the main building.
We have wooden floorboards on our ground floor.
Your thought greatly appreciated.
On 2020-07-15 by Anonymous
Graham
A concrete-filled steel lally column is perfectly suitable and functional Outdoors particularly if kept painted and has the feature that it's easy to make a welded connection to a steel being that it is supporting.
I don't think there's any valid support for a claim that a steel post wicks moisture up from the ground.
On the other hand I would very steel and I would protect the bottom from moisture. On the 3rd hand would need similar protection. That's why regardless of post type it's better practice to support the bottom of the post buying a pier that rises above grade level.
Maybe you're a builder, who sounds as if she's not familiar with structural steel post, was thinking of a hollow pipe. That's not a lally column.
On 2019-05-04 by Efra - Found Significant Bend in Lally Columns in New House - hit by vehicle, builder says doesn't matter
We're in a new construction home and we're one year in. When we first moved in, I noticed a significant bend on one of the Lally columns. I was told that the column had been likely hit or bent prior to its installation and that it had no bearing on structural integrity.
One year later, the column is still bent but I noticed slight bends in one of the other columns.
I attach images here in the hopes that someone can help me ascertain whether this is a problem or potentially a problem so I can be informed when filing me one year warranty claim with the builder.
Thanks everyone!
Efra
IMAGE LOST by older version of Clark Van Oyen’s Comments Box code - now fixed. Please re-post the image if you can. Sorry. Mod.
To recap: im in a new construction. when i moved in i noticed one of the Lally columns was really bent (first pic, top left). the builder assured me this was nothing structural, and that most likely the column had been hit prior to its install.
one year later, i'm prepping to file the one year warranty claim with the builder, and noticed another column is noticeably bent (second lally column pic, top right). no cracking on the basement floor or anything.
is this normal? is there any way to know if there's something going on structurally that i should be worried about or be asking they fix (if possible)?
i also noticed the carrying beams ( i think that's what they're called) separate slightly from each other as they extend from Lally column to Lally column (bottom pic). not sure its super clear in the pic but i wonder if this too is normal.
Thanks everyone and I apologize to the moderator for the duplicity.
Efra
IMAGE LOST by older version of Clark Van Oyen’s Comments Box code - now fixed. Please re-post the image if you can. Sorry. Mod.
On 2019-05-04 by (mod) - how to diagnose bent-lally columns
Efra:
Thanks for the interesting question and bent-lally column photos.Our photo shows a bent-over Lally column at Northridge Meadows in LA after a major earthquake there.
Some of those were not true Lallys but instead were hollow steel that bent over too-easily.
OPINION: The original builder, probably behind or unable to get proper concrete filled columns, put in these fake columns and because they were wrapped with additional material, was able to hide the fact that they were improper.
1. What's bent?
First double check that it's the column that's bent and not the 2x4 or 1x4 you're using as a strait edge.Check by flipping the lumber over or moving it around the post - or use a known-strait edge object.
2. Is it a true concretre-filled Lally column?
Next using a small hammer, TAP on the Lally column. In proper modern construction Lally columns are not hollow, they're filled with concrete- which resists bending under load. If the Lally column rings or sounds hollow I worry that the proper column was not installed.
(In SOME jurisdictions the local building inspector may permit hollow steel or temporary jackposts or screw jacks as permanent columns as long as the screw is welded when construction is complete but those are easy to identify by their holes and cross-bolts).
3. Are hollow columns or jackposts allowed?
Check with your local building department about allowing hollow steel columns; include the column diameter, height, and description of your building- are there unusual (for residential construction) weights or loads from above?
4. Is Engineering analysis needed?
Particularly since you think the bends are increasing I'd take this question seriously as a building collapse can injure or kill its occupants- which unfortunately means finding a civil engineer or structural engineer who is familiar with residential construction (not a generic engineer who may be licensed but lack the specific residential construction expertise) - and ask the engineer to take a look.
Keep me posted and we may be able to offer more comments as may other readers.
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