Building Inspection, Diagnosis & Repair Info

Well Pump Short Cycling

Diagnose "Water Pump Short Cycling" & Restore Air in a Building Water Tank

  • POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about diagnosing and repairing a short-cycling well pump: how to fix a well pump that keeps turning on and off too frequently

Short cycling water pumps:

Well pump turns on and off rapidly or too often: this article defines short cycling or rapid cycling well pumps and the various causes and cures for that problem.

We explain why rapid on-off switching of the water pump can be harmful and how it also affects building water pressure.

We explain that often sort cycling indicates the need for air in a water pressure tank. In companion articles we explain several ways to add air to a building water pressure tank, and how to detect and correct air and water leaks in a building water supply system where a private well is the water source.

We also discuss how to adjust the building water pressure by setting the cut-in and cut-out pressure on the pump pressure control switch.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?

What is water pump short cycling & why can it be harmful?

WellMate fiberglass water pressure tank (C) D Friedman J HafnerSeveral alternative procedures for adding air to a water pressure tank are described below along with advice about what to do when things go wrong, such as finding air and water leaks.

The illustration at page top is courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, Inc. in Toronto.

Article Contents

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Definition of water pump short cycling rate or frequency

Short cycling of a water pump means that the water pump or "well pump" turns on and off too rapidly or too frequently when water is being run in the building. "Short cycling" means switching on and off every 30 seconds or less.

Watch out: Extreme water pump short cycling may occur every second or less and means you should turn off the pump system to avoid damaging the pump or controls.

The most common cause of a short cycling water or well pump is loss of air pre-charge in the water pressure tank. A bladder type water tank shouldn't have this problem unless the bladder is damaged. For bladderless water tanks, simply turn off the pump, drain off water pressure, and set the tank air pre-charge to 2 psi below the pump CUT-IN pressure.

Here's a typical reader question typical of pump short cycling problems:

9/1/14 William said: my well pressure switch keeps clicking on and off rapidly

How fast is "rapid cycling" or pump short cycling?

Good question.

IT depends on tank size, and more, on the water outflow or usage rate, and also the pump's pumping rate capacity in gpm for the whole system including total vertical lift, piping restrictions & distances.

If a pump, tank, piping, well are in perfect condition and the pump is cycling on and off for a moderate water flow usage rate such as someone running a bathroom sink faucet, then if the pump is turning on and off more often than every 30 seconds I'd want a larger pressure tank.

The pump manufacturers, are, however the final authority on this so you'll want to check with the company who makes your tank.

Certainly if a pump under any circumstances is turning on and off every few seconds or less, something's seriously wrong and the pump or its controls are likely to be damaged or to have a short life.

Watch out: For pressure boosting pumps that do not use any pressure tank (the control that turns the pump on and off is built into the pump), the pump turns on as soon as a plumbing fixture is opened to run water and runs all the time water is being run.

If the pressure booster pump that does not use a pressure tank (such as the new Grundfos Scala2 tankless pressure pump) is cycling on and off repeatedly in short intervals further investigation is needed: there may be a plumbing leak soaking your building.

Watch out: with tankless booster pumps: any small leak such as a running toilet or pinhole leak in a pipe may cause the pressure booster pump to cycle on and off more frequently than the manufacturer intends - risking damage to the pump.

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Why a Water Pump "short cycles" on and off rapidly

Details About Short Cycling Water Pumps

The "water storage tank" is doing more than storing water. Its air charge acts like a spring to smooth the delivery of water in the building. If the building water supply pump is "short cycling" - coming on and off rapidly, you may need to add air to the water pressure tank.

This step is important to protect your private pump and well from damage due to short-cycling due to loss of air in the pressure tank. Short cycling of the pump motor can burn up the pump relay control.

The minimum that a building owner or occupant needs to know is that short cycling is an on-off cycle of the water pump in a house with a private water pump and water supply well system. The "short cycling" water pump is turning on and off rapidly, perhaps every 10 to 20 seconds or even more frequently.

Water pump short cycling can damage the pump or controls. Repair is needed at one or more of: the water pressure tank, water pump pressure control switch, water pump, water filter, or the well or building water supply piping. If you are not interested in tackling this easy repair yourself, call a plumber.

The sketch shown at the top of This article shows the components of a typical residential water well, water pump, water pressure tank, and water pump control system. Below we include other drawings and photographs of wells, water tanks, and their associated valves and controls.

At some properties the well pump may be inside rather than in the well as in this drawing, and on your tank the water pressure gauge may be mounted on a special air volume control fitting on the back of the water tank itself rather than as shown in this sketch. Sometimes people think this water tank is to "store" water for use in the building. That's rarely the case. Usually water is "stored" by being present in the well and in the ground around the well.

If a pump-operated water supply system is turning on and off rapidly (every few seconds) it would be smart to turn off the water or turn off electric power to the water pump and call a plumber promptly.

If your water pump comes on at odd times but is not short-cycling,

see INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS.

Can the pressure switch setting causing short cycling of a pump?

My airbladder tank pressure came pre set at 38psi but the pressure switch is 20/40 is this causing the switch to cycle on off on off? second question, there does not seem to be water in the tank,why? i get water from the spigot with pressure and the guage jumps right from 20 to 40 and back again. why? - Patty 9/17/12

Reply: pressure tank [starting pressure at installation] should be 2 psi below the cut in pressure of the pump

Patty,

As long as the differential between CUT-IN pressure and CUT-OUT pressure is 15-20 psi, the pressure switch ought not be the cause of pump short cycling.

Usually it's a water tank air charge pressure problem.

The pressure in the pressure tank should always be 2 psi below the cut in pressure of the pump. First, check the gauge when the pump first kicks in before shutting down the pump. Then, turn off the pump. Shut the water supply off to the pump, drain the pressure tank by opening the faucet furthest from the pressure tank, then release all the air from the pressure tank.

Refill the tank with air to 18 psi if the pump is actually cutting in at 20 psi. When you turn the pump back on it will fill the pressure tank and will stop cycling unless you have a leak somewhere or dirty filters. - reply from WaterWorks 9/21/2012

Watch out:  After adjusting nut#2 you may need to check the actual operating water pressures in your system and adjust nut#1 to be sure that you are not pushing the cut-out (upper pressure) so high that the water pump never turns off (dangerous).

Or in a contrary case if you completely loosen the smaller nut #2 (dfifferntial adjustment) so that the pump differential between cut-in pressure and cut-out pressure is very small the water pump may short cycle on and off rapidly when water is being run in the building.

If short cycling seems to be the problem with your water pump, this separate article

WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES describes the most common causes of this problem.

We also provide a complete

WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE that lists all possible causes of well pump rapid cycling on and off.

If you are not sure what "water pump short cycling" means or how it is recognized,

read SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP.

Intermittent water pump cycling is a different problem which is discussed

at INTERMITTENT WATER PUMP CYCLING means that the water pump comes on for no apparent reaso

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How do we Detect Short Cycling of a water pump? What do we do?

Normally the "pump on" cycle is 30 seconds to 90 seconds or longer, depending on water tank size, and the "pump off" cycle is the same or longer.

What is Water Pump or Water Tank "Short Cycling" - rapid on and off water pump

Short cycling of the water pump means that the water pump keeps turning on and off rapidly whenever you're running water at one or more fixtures in the building. The pump on-off cycle may be perhaps every few seconds, or perhaps every 10-20 seconds. This is a problem, which we diagnose, discuss, and for which we offer repair procedures below.

The minimum that a building owner or occupant needs to know is that short cycling can damage the pump or controls, and that action is needed.

These short cycling problems happen with both in-building jet pumps and with in-well submersible pumps. It's trickier to notice a short cycling submersible pump since you won't hear the pump motor, but you will hear the pump relay clicking on and off, or you can see the water pressure gauge cycling up and down rapidly.

If you are not interested in tackling this easy repair yourself, call a plumber. If the system is turning on and off rapidly (every few seconds) it would be smart to turn off the water or pump and call a plumber promptly since if you let this problem continue you're likely to damage a pump control or pump motor (expensive).

You can tell if your water pump system is "short cycling if:

  • Water pressure pulses,

    that is the pressure goes from strong to weak, at a short time interval ranging from just a few seconds to perhaps a minute.

  • The water pump turns on and off rapidly

    on the same time interval. You may hear the pump motor running and stopping and running again.

  • The water pressure gauge oscillates from high to low pressure rapidly

    on the same time interval. You can use this method if your well pump is not located in the building where you can hear it. The pump itself may be outside in a well pit or down in the well itself (a submersible well pump).

If you don't know how to find your pump pressure gauge, pressure controls, switches and controls,

see WATER PUMP & TANK CONTROLS & SWITCHES

How to Detect a Short Cycling Water Pump and Tank

We give more description of how to detect short cycling of the water pump

at SIGNS OF AIR LOSS

How to Diagnose the Cause of a Well Pump that Keeps Turning On and Off

Watch out: before "fixing" a short-cycling well pump, you'll want to try for an accurate diagnosis of its cause - the right fix is cheaper than a whole collection of wrong fixes.

See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES for an explanation of the most common causes of well pump short cycling

See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE for a table that lists the all of the possible causes of well pump short cycling

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How to Fix a Short Cycling Water Pump and Tank

Our articles listed above, WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES

and WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE list the corrective steps for a short cycling well pump - depending on the cause.

If it turns out that you want to just try the easy, quick, above-ground "fix" of adding air to the water tank, we describe how to correct water pump short cycling, in great detail and giving several methods,

at WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD for conventional water tanks that do not use an internal bladder.

Bladderless water pressure tanks,

because the air charge and water are in the same container, can lose their air charge over time (air is absorbed into the water) and may need air added.

At BLADDERLESS STEEL WATER PRESSURE TANKS we discuss waterlogged water tanks and well pump short cycling.

See WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD for details on how to add air to a water pressure tank.

Bladder type or captive-air water pressure tanks 

and their repairs are described at WATER TANK TYPES

and at WATER TANKS HOW THEY WORK.

At WHAT GOES WRONG WITH an INTERNAL BLADDER TYPE WATER TANK?we discuss the combination of well pump short cycling and a burst water tank bladder and how this condition is identified and repaired.

See this detailed article on bladder-type "captive air" water tank diagnosis and repair:

at WATER TANK BLADDERS & CAPTIVE AIR

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Do I Need a New Water Tank?

Question: should I replace my old water tank?

We just had our pump replaced after 18 years. Total cost with tax was $2400. Project was done on emergency basis on a Friday night and we were really stuck. During his visit the plumber/owner suggested we consider a larger pressure tank than our 20 gallon unit, also recently replaced.

The system worked well for many years and I don't see the need to purchase another larger tank. Any thoughts? - Wayne Ouellette

Reply: maybe not.

If your water tank is a newer bladder type, even a smaller 20-gallon tank gives the equivalent of a larger old style (non-bladder) tank in the draw-down cycle - the amount of time that you can run the water before the pump has to come on.

As long as your pump is not WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING (which may shorten pump life), the gain from a larger tank is probably not much. If your tank is an older type with no internal bladder, the reason to go to a newer tank would be reliability and reduced maintenance.

Some Reasons to Consider a New Water Tank

  1. The water tank is perforated, damaged, or leaking - you need a new one
  2. The water pump has constant WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING problems and the water tank is an older non-bladder type you can reduce the frequency of water tank maintenance (adding air) and eliminate problems with automatic air volume controls that try to add air for you by installing a new bladder type water pressure tank.

    At WATER TANK TYPES: WATER, OIL, EXPANSION, ALL we explain the different types of water tanks.
  3. Your well has a poor flow rate and you often run out of water. Less costly than drilling a new well is the addition of greater water storage capacity in one or a series of larger water tanks.

    But first see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR,

    and see WATER PRESSURE PUMP REPAIR GUIDE.

Watch out: before you go to the trouble and expense of replacing a water pressure tank, make sure that you have correctly diagnosed the problem that you are "curing" - you wouldn't want to replace a water tank only to find that you still have the water pressure or quantity problem because another, perhaps less costly, part was at fault.

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Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

Water pump short cycles - turns on and off too rapidly - the pressure switch keeps clicking on and off

I believe I have a short cycling problem. This is a cottage application.

The pump cuts in at 28 psi and charges to about 42 psi and then cuts out. When the pump cuts out the pressure on the gauge drops immediately to 30 psi.

Then of course after a short water usage the pump cuts in and repeats the above.

The cycle used to be charge up to 42 psi, cut out and settle at 40 psi, draw down to 30 psi and then the pump would cut in.

This problem started after I needed to replace a foot valve in the cistern. Do you think it's a pressure problem in my bladder tank? If so, how can I return it the original cycle described above. Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide. - Dan Lowry 8/27/11

Reply:

Dan that sounds like short cycling to me. I've often seen that a pressure gauge reads higher when the pump is running and drops at pump shutoff. But when you add that running just a few gallons of water turns the pump back on, that suggests that the tank has lost its air charge.

If your tank really has an internal bladder, that's not supposed to happen. So if you have indeed lost the air charge, the bladder may be torn or damaged.

See the well pump short cycling diagnosis & repair articles we provide starting at

WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING - home

William please see the short cycling well pump diagnostics at

WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES

and let me know how you make out

Pump pressure goes up to 70 psi then immediately falls to 40 psi, many times a minute

When I flush the toilet my well pump cycles on to 70 lbs then right off and drops to 40 lbs and back on to 70 lbs then drops down to 40lbs and back on to 70 lbs it does this 21 or 22 times in a matter of just a couple of minutes then it stays at 40 or 39 lbs. I think it's doing this the whole time the toilet is filling back up? What would cause this?? - Jim Gale 10/17/11

what can be wrong with my well i put a new pressurer swithch the blader tank is good not lossing air but pump cut on and off ever two min what do i have to do to fix the problem - Anon 3/1/12

The pump is new and the pressure tank is old and the pressure switch is new. I run the water the pump clicks on and off every 10 seconds. I can see condensation line above the half way line on the tank. Whats the problem? - Rep 6/5/12

My switch cycles constantly and finally (sticks and holds contact. Is this an air pressure problem in my water tank? - Martin 7/19/12

My well is for outdoor irrigation only and has a very small (maybe 3-5 gallon?) bladder tank and pressure switch set-up.

When I turn on a hose the pump clicks on and then off immediately, just a few seconds then the water pressure from the hose dwindles down and then the pump kicks back on just for a second and right back off

so I get a burst of water then the dwindling again & it just keeps going like that. Isn't the point of the pressure switch & bladder tank to make the pump stay on while water is running, keeping the pressure constant?

What adjustment to the pressure switch should I make....increase or decrease the cut-on or cut-off point? - Jen 7/20/12

Reply:

Everyone above and Martin, I'm not 100% sure of course, but I don't think it's an air problem.

Short cycling of a water pump describes the pump turning on and off too often when water is running, but not a sticky or misbehaving pressure switch.

Burned switch contacts, a failing switch, a loose connection in the wiring, or a dirt-clogged sensor port on the pressure control switch base or in the tube that conducts water pressure to the switch are more likely at fault.

Martin when you swapped in the new switch, if you left a clogged tube on which the switch mounts or that feeds water pressure to the switch, even the sensor port on the new one could be blocked as well.

I'd also check voltage levels.

And that the pressure tank is not waterlogged.

Jen when the pump turns on and then immediately off it's as if there is no air in the pressure tank - so as water is not very compressible, the system reaches cutoff pressure immediately.

If the irrigation system draws water fast enough, or if the pressure tank has an air charge, the symptom you describe should not occur.

Take a look at WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING. I think your water tank may be waterlogged

Is the pressure in the tank below the switch CUT-IN a problem; Why is my water tank empty? Pump comes on immediately & cycles rapidly.

My airbladder tank pressure came pre set at 38psi but the pressure switch is 20/40 is this causing the switch to cycle on off on off?

Second question, there does not seem to be water in the tank,why? i get water from the spigot with pressure and the guage jumps right from 20 to 40 and back again. why? - Patty 9/17/12

Reply: pressure tank [starting pressure at installation] should be 2 psi below the cut in pressure of the pump

Patty,

The pressure in the pressure tank should always be 2 psi below the cut in pressure of the pump.

First, check the gauge when the pump first kicks in before shutting down the pump. Then, turn off the pump.

Shut the water supply off to the pump, drain the pressure tank by opening the faucet furthest from the pressure tank, then release all the air from the pressure tank.

Refill the tank with air to 18 psi if the pump is actually cutting in at 20 psi. Standard is to set the empty water tank air charge pressure to 2 psi below the pump switch CUT-IN pressure.

When you turn the pump back on it will fill the pressure tank and will stop cycling unless you have a leak somewhere or dirty filters. - reply from WaterWorks 9/21/2012

Moderator adds: and if water isn't enteringyour water pressure tank the water bladder might be stuck to itself. Your plumber may try fixing that by a brief higher pressure setting - but never to a pressure above what the water tank's label permits.

Please explain the cause of short my cycling Zoller Air E Tainer Model 122 pump

My system is short cycling with the pump kicking on after about a gallon of flow (Zoller Air E Tainer Model 122 - 33.4 gal, max working 100psi, precharge from factory 28psi, drawdown at 30/50 psi 10.3 gal) but I can't quite figure out how it's happening.

When I turn a faucet on the pressure drops from 68 to 38 as about a gallon of water flows then the pump kicks on and runs it back up to 68 in about 5 seconds (10 gpm rated pump) switches off and the pressure begins to drop again.

This has been going on for a couple of weeks (at least...just bought the house so it could have been longer). The tank is almost exactly 1/2 full of water (water level is obvious from temperature difference) so it seems unlikely there is a bladder/diaphragm leak.

There are no leaks in the system (pressure is rock solid at 65psi for 60 minutes when not running water and pump never comes on when not running water).
So, three questions. 1) could a stuck bladder/diaphragm be causing this?

Basically the system is behaving like the bottom half of the tank is filled with rocks and only has room for 1 gallon of water or the diaphragm can only move 1 inch instead of 10 inches but that would mean it's holding back a pressure differential of about 25psi which is a lot on 400 sq inches...seems impossible.

2) Should I turn off the pump and drain the water? I'm nervous because if the stuck diaphragm theory is correct that will make the pressure differential even higher with the demand side at 0 instead of 38psi. I'm in a very remote area and if the diaphragm tears it could take a couple of weeks to replace the tank...

3) Any other theories that explain the behavior I'm seeing? On 2020-09-07 by Ray -

On by (mod) -

Ray

How are you determining that the water pressure tank has the proper air charge?

Also, perhaps you want an independent check of the pressure in the system. The pressure gauge as well as the pressure control switch can beome to blocked with debris and can act abnormally.

How long can a pump continue to short cycle before it's damaged?

I will be replacing my tank within a few days but the short cycling has been going on for a few weeks...how long can a pump continue to short cyclone before damages? On 2020-02-14 by John -

Answer by (mod) -

That's a great question John and I don't think there's a single correct answer.

But I have to admit that many people live with a well pump that moves water just fine but in very short on-off cycle time (say less than 30 seconds per run) for weeks or months before getting around to fixing it.

Watch out: A lot depends on whether a pump is running dry, and on the pump model brand and bearing design. If the pump short cycles and runs out of water it may be damaged in minutes. Otherwise the damage takes a bit longer and is more hidden: burned contact points in the pressure control switch.

In any case if the pump appears to still be working, once you've fixed the short cycling cause, you wouldn't replace the pump itself unless or until there was a sign of failure such as a bearing leak or inability to reach shut off pressure.

Thank you to our readers for their generous comments

On 2021-10-28 by jeni - Just wanted to say thank you for this. You saved me money. I Just wanted to say thank you for this. My small setup(shallow well pump in the garage) was switching off and on every 5-10 seconds and puslating, went ahead and checked the air pressure in the bladder thanks to this article.... and it was at 0. Quick fix with just a bike pump and a tire gauge, back to 28 and all is well. Ya'll probably saved me 100$ - (obviously I need to have a conversation with my children about touching the pump again)

On 2017-07-19 by Mike - Excellent article. My well was short cycling. Your article helped me to quickly diagnose that it was a clogged filter. 15 minute fix. Thank you!!!

(Apr 4, 2015) dave m. said: this site has got to be the most complete and easist site i have ever used thank ypu so much for all this valuable info. dave m.

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