Water Pump Won't Stop Running

Fix a well pump that won't turn off or doesn't reach cut-off pressure

POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about how to fix a well pump that won't stop running: causes & cures

Why won't our water pump turn off?

Several problems can cause a water pump to keep running instead of shutting off when it should, and each of these suggests its own diagnostic step to finding out what's happening with your well pump.

This article explains how to diagnose & repair a bore hole or well water water pump that keeps on running and won't shut off. While the repair may be a simple adjustment to the pressure control switch, we warn that there are other causes of continuous pump running that are more serious such as a plumbing leak or a failing well.

We warn that the pump may be damaged if the cause is not fixed promptly.

This page provides our Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off.

We include water pump manufacturer contact information for most borehole or well pump brands.

The photograph at page top shows a one-line jet pump, the water pressure tank, and a water softener.

We know from the fact that this is a single line jet well pump that the well is a shallow one, probably less than 27' deep. Well depth may have implications for water quantity and quality and vulnerability to surface water contamination.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?

Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off

Watch out: If the building has no water pressure, turn off the water pump immediately.

The first thing to do to protect your pump from damage if it simply won't turn off is to shut off electrical power to the pump.

Running a water pump "dry" risks causing internal damage to the pump. If there is no water pressure at all. Then step through the "pump won't stop" diagnostic table given on this page.

What to Check if the Well Pump Will Not Stop Running
Pump Won't Stop Cause	Diagnostic Procedure	Repair Procedure
Water is running in or at the building If water is running somewhere in the building water supply system at a rate faster than the pump can deliver from the well, the pump will run continuously. Don't forget outside garden hoses and lawn sprinklers or other water outlets.	Turn off the main water supply to the building, typically found at the water pressure tank. If the pump continues to run the problem is not likely to be a running fixture or pipe leak downstream (in the building) from this point. If you have turned off water at the water pressure tank and the well pump is still running, before blaming the pump, controls, piping, well, look once more for water supply piping that may be ahead of the valve where you turned off water.	Turn off or repair running toilets, outdoor garden hose hook-ups or lawn sprinklers, or supply piping that is leaking. If this was the problem source, the well pump will continue to run until pressure builds up to the pressure control switch cut-out level and the pump should stop. If the pump runs on, check the remaining diagnostic steps below.
Lost prime at the well pump If the above-ground (jet pump) pump has lost prime the pump may be running "dry" continuously.	A bad check valve or failed foot valve can lead to loss of well prime. A leaky foot valve in the well or a hidden running water source in the building such as a running toilet can also cause this symptom. If the pump is a submersible unit in the well, loss of prime is not normally an issue.	Watch out: turn off the pump immediately to avoid damage. If no water is being delivered and the pump is running and it's an above ground pump, turn off power and inspect the pump cavity for the presence of water by removing the priming plug. See WELL PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE for two methods that almost always work to get a dry well pump going again. Make sure that you have adequately primed the pump and do not let a well pump run dry - you are likely to damage it. If the problem is recurrent see WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE See PUMP PRIME, REPEATED LOSS of for a discussion of well piping foot valves and the relation to loss of well pump prime.
Water pressure control switch setting errors Improper switch adjustment can cause too-rapid pump cycling	If you or someone else has tried "adjusting" the cut-in or cut-out settings of the pressure control switch, it may be set improperly. Setting the cut-out pressure above the pump's capacity can cause the pump to run continuously.	Check / change pressure switch pressure settings to correct adjustment for cut-in and cut-out. Normally we see about 20 psi between cut-in and cut-out pressures. Lower the pump cut-out pressure setting. If the pump stops, this was the problem. See: PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT This is more likely if someone has been fooling around with the switch. Watch out: a damaged, jammed, or improperly-set pressure control switch that is calling for a pressure that is above the pump's capacity will cause the pump to run continuously and is likely to burn-up the pump motor.
Water pressure switch tubing clogged Sediment or debris-clogged pressure sensor or switch pressure sensing tubing can cause improper switch performance.	If the switch is not responding consistently to changes in building water pressure, the pressure-sensing component of the switch or the tubing connecting it may be defective. Try removing the tubing and blowing air through it.	Check pressure switch tubing for leaks or clogging. Clean or replace the tubing. The clog could also be debris in the orifice on the bottom of the pressure switch sensor, or inside the sensor requiring that the switch be replaced. See: PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH DEBRIS CLOGGING Also CHECK PRESSURE CONTROL BASE CLOG or TORN DIAPHRAGHM Also WATER PUMP CONTROL SWITCH DEBRIS CLOGGING FAQs
Water pressure switch contact points burned/welded	Arcing may have burned the pressure control switch contacts. In some cases the contacts may become "welded" together in the closed (power on) position. Turn off electrical power (for safety) and examine the contact points. If they are stuck together and burned, this may be the problem.	You will need to replace the switch. See PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE
Water pressure switch or pump electrical wiring incorrectly-installed	A reader reported that their well pump had been wired incorrectly when it was installed, such that the pump ran continuously. This dangerous error is more likely to occur with a submersible pump whose noise is not going to be heard. The reader noticed that building water pressure was sometimes dangerously high, around 100 psi! A burst pipe or water tank can both flood the building and injure anyone who is nearby. The effects of an always-on switch also include pump damage and failure, exhausting the water well and of course an elevated electric bill.	Ask your licensed electrician to review the pump circuit wiring and control wiring. Also check for a pressure control switch whose contact points have welded shut as that, too, will keep the pump running.
Well piping leak A bad leak anywhere in the well piping between the building water pressure tank and the bottom of the well can leak enough water when the pump is running that the pump cannot raise pressure in the pressure tank up to the cut-out level and the well pump will continue running.	A leak anywhere on the well piping, including on the suction line of a 2-line jet pump, will also cause the pump to run-on or to lose the ability to pump to higher pressures. A suction leak anywhere above the water level in the well will often also add air to the building's water system. A common location for a suction leak is where the well piping (1 line jet pump) or suction line (2 line jet pump) is connected to the pump's impeller assembly. Suction line leaks that are below the water level in the well won't draw air into the piping system but may still leak water back into the well when the pump has stopped. Close the main building water supply valve between the pressure tank and the rest of the building. Also air coming out of building plumbing fixtures can be caused by air leaks into the same well piping when the pump is not running.	Turn off the well pump electrical power. Watch the water pressure gauge. If pressure continues to drop there may be a leak in well piping. If the gauge does not move, tap it to be sure the gauge is not itself stuck. Leaks in well piping will usually require pulling the piping in the well and if no leak is observed there, it may be necessary to excavate along the path of the well line between well and building. This includes "hidden" leaks such as a leak in the piping inside the well or between the well and the building. If such a leak is present you may observe that water pressure in the system drops when the pump is turned off even though no water is running in the building. Start excavation by looking for wet spots on the ground that could be caused by a well piping leak. See WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS Also AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES
Loss of water in the well	The well water level may have dropped and the pump is unable to pick up and deliver water in sufficient volume This is possible if the well piping has a low-water tailpiece installed to protect a submersible pump from burnup. If water level in the well drops too low, the tailpiece causes water to re circulate through the pump rather than being sent up the piping to the building served by the well. If the well water level has fallen too low or the well recovery rate is too poor, or if the well pump is oversized for the well flow rate, the pump may run continuously. Other symptoms of this problem include air discharge at plumbing fixtures.	First: turn off the pump and leave it off for 2-24 hours to see if allowing the well to recover fixes the trouble. Then: Install a properly-sized well pump matched to the well flow rate. Install a tailpiece and/or low water cutoff device to protect the pump from damage. Investigate and fix the cause of a poor flow rate or low-yield well. See WELL FLOW RATE SAFE YIELD for a WELL WELL LIFE EXPECTANCY WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR WATER QUANTITY IMPROVEMENT WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE See these articles: WELL FLOW RATE and also WELL FLOW RATE - YIELD IMPROVEMENT METHODS How to Get More Water From a Well without drilling a new well, and see WELL LIFE EXPECTANCY how long should a water well and its components last?
A failing well piping low water cutoff control or well tailpiece	The low water cutoff or tailpiece are devices intended to protect the well pump from damage by a low-flow or poor recovery rate well. The device may have failed or one may be absent & needed.	See WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE if your well has a tailpiece in the well. See WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH if your pump controls include a pump protector.
Low voltage in the electrical supply	Some pumps will continue to pump but with less power (in gpm or lift) if the supply voltage falls below the pump's design level. More rarely, we've had a report of a 240V pump that continued to run on 120V when power had been lost on one leg of the circuit - a condition that I [DF] found doubtful.	VOLTS MEASUREMENT METHODS
Plugged ejector assembly, tailpiece,or foot valve or well screen in the well	Debris clogging the screen at the water pickup in the well can reduce the water flow rate. To diagnose and correct this problem, it is necessary to pull the well piping and inspect the ejector, tailpiece, foot valve or well screen for clogging	Clean or replace the clogged parts. See WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
Water pump is damaged Damaged or clogged impeller	The water pump may have suffered internal damage to a seal, bearing, or impeller. The motor will keep running but the pump is unable to develop normal pressures. "Damage" may include a broken impeller blade, scale or debris clogging the impeller or other pump components, or a failing pump seal or bearing.	A bad internal well pump seal will almost always cause a reduced ability of the pump to reach cut-off pressure as well as reducing the pump's flow or production rate in gallons or liters per minute. Check the rubber O-ring or gasket seal between the pump's diffuser and the pump case (volute). See LIFE EXPECTANCY of WATER PUMPS - Well Pumps: How long should a water pump last? What affects pump life?
The wrong sized-jet may be installed	In the well where a 2-line jet pump is installed, the jet is improperly sized or not matched to the pump.	Review the jet pump's installation manual, capacity. If the 2-line jet pump was replaced but the foot valve and jet in the well were matched to an older pump of different capacity, you may need to change the jet in the well. See FOOT VALVES See WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM
Well pump pressure capacity is inadequate A well pump that cannot pump water pressure up to the pressure control-switch cut-off point.	If you are confident that none of the explanations above diagnose a well pump that runs on, Check that the pressure gauge is itself accurate - that's how we make sure that the pressure control switch is not set above pump capacity. Having eliminated all of the explanations above, we suspect the pump may have become internally damaged and it will need repair or replacement.	Turn off electrical power to the well system, remove system water pressure (save water for pump re-priming if necessary). Remove and inspect the well pump and pump motor for proper operation. Check the pump impeller assembly for mechanical damage, broken internal parts, or mineral deposits or debris clogging that reduce water flow through the pump. Replace the impeller assembly and other pump parts as needed or replace the entire pump assembly. See WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM WELL PUMP TYPES & LIFE EXPECTANCY WELL PUMP PRIMING GUIDE
Well pump lift capacity is exceeded	Compare pump lift capacity to the actual water lift height. Note the actual total water lift height from point of pick-up in the well to highest point in the well piping to which the pump must lift water. See the lift capacity for your pump in the pump's data specifications or data tag or installation manual.	See WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM

What to Check if the Well Pump Will Not Stop Running

Pump Won't Stop Cause

Diagnostic Procedure

Repair Procedure

Water is running in or at the building

If water is running somewhere in the building water supply system at a rate faster than the pump can deliver from the well, the pump will run continuously.

Don't forget outside garden hoses and lawn sprinklers or other water outlets.

Turn off the main water supply to the building, typically found at the water pressure tank.

If the pump continues to run the problem is not likely to be a running fixture or pipe leak downstream (in the building) from this point.

If you have turned off water at the water pressure tank and the well pump is still running, before blaming the pump, controls, piping, well, look once more for water supply piping that may be ahead of the valve where you turned off water.

Turn off or repair running toilets, outdoor garden hose hook-ups or lawn sprinklers, or supply piping that is leaking.

If this was the problem source, the well pump will continue to run until pressure builds up to the pressure control switch cut-out level and the pump should stop.

If the pump runs on, check the remaining diagnostic steps below.

Lost prime at the well pump

If the above-ground (jet pump) pump has lost prime the pump may be running "dry" continuously.

A bad check valve or failed foot valve can lead to loss of well prime.

A leaky foot valve in the well or a hidden running water source in the building such as a running toilet can also cause this symptom.

If the pump is a submersible unit in the well, loss of prime is not normally an issue.

Watch out: turn off the pump immediately to avoid damage.

If no water is being delivered and the pump is running and it's an above ground pump, turn off power and inspect the pump cavity for the presence of water by removing the priming plug.

See WELL PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE for two methods that almost always work to get a dry well pump going again.

Make sure that you have adequately primed the pump and do not let a well pump run dry - you are likely to damage it.

If the problem is recurrent see

WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES

WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES

WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS

WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE

See PUMP PRIME, REPEATED LOSS of for a discussion of well piping foot valves and the relation to loss of well pump prime.

Water pressure control switch setting errors

Improper switch adjustment can cause too-rapid pump cycling

If you or someone else has tried "adjusting" the cut-in or cut-out settings of the pressure control switch, it may be set improperly.

Setting the cut-out pressure above the pump's capacity can cause the pump to run continuously.

Check / change pressure switch pressure settings to correct adjustment for cut-in and cut-out.

Normally we see about 20 psi between cut-in and cut-out pressures.

Lower the pump cut-out pressure setting. If the pump stops, this was the problem.

See:
PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT

This is more likely if someone has been fooling around with the switch.

Watch out: a damaged, jammed, or improperly-set pressure control switch that is calling for a pressure that is above the pump's capacity will cause the pump to run continuously and is likely to burn-up the pump motor.

Water pressure switch tubing clogged

Sediment or debris-clogged pressure sensor or switch pressure sensing tubing can cause improper switch performance.

If the switch is not responding consistently to changes in building water pressure, the pressure-sensing component of the switch or the tubing connecting it may be defective.

Try removing the tubing and blowing air through it.

Check pressure switch tubing for leaks or clogging. Clean or replace the tubing.

The clog could also be debris in the orifice on the bottom of the pressure switch sensor, or inside the sensor requiring that the switch be replaced.

See: PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH DEBRIS CLOGGING

Also CHECK PRESSURE CONTROL BASE CLOG or TORN DIAPHRAGHM

Also WATER PUMP CONTROL SWITCH DEBRIS CLOGGING FAQs

Water pressure switch contact points burned/welded

Arcing may have burned the pressure control switch contacts. In some cases the contacts may become "welded" together in the closed (power on) position.

Turn off electrical power (for safety) and examine the contact points. If they are stuck together and burned, this may be the problem.

You will need to replace the switch.

See PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE

Water pressure switch or pump electrical wiring incorrectly-installed

A reader reported that their well pump had been wired incorrectly when it was installed, such that the pump ran continuously.

This dangerous error is more likely to occur with a submersible pump whose noise is not going to be heard.

The reader noticed that building water pressure was sometimes dangerously high, around 100 psi! A burst pipe or water tank can both flood the building and injure anyone who is nearby.

The effects of an always-on switch also include pump damage and failure, exhausting the water well and of course an elevated electric bill.

Ask your licensed electrician to review the pump circuit wiring and control wiring.

Also check for a pressure control switch whose contact points have welded shut as that, too, will keep the pump running.

Well piping leak

A bad leak anywhere in the well piping between the building water pressure tank and the bottom of the well can leak enough water when the pump is running that the pump cannot raise pressure in the pressure tank up to the cut-out level and the well pump will continue running.

A leak anywhere on the well piping, including on the suction line of a 2-line jet pump, will also cause the pump to run-on or to lose the ability to pump to higher pressures.

A suction leak anywhere above the water level in the well will often also add air to the building's water system.

A common location for a suction leak is where the well piping (1 line jet pump) or suction line (2 line jet pump) is connected to the pump's impeller assembly.

Suction line leaks that are below the water level in the well won't draw air into the piping system but may still leak water back into the well when the pump has stopped.

Close the main building water supply valve between the pressure tank and the rest of the building.

Also air coming out of building plumbing fixtures can be caused by air leaks into the same well piping when the pump is not running.

Turn off the well pump electrical power.

Watch the water pressure gauge. If pressure continues to drop there may be a leak in well piping. If the gauge does not move, tap it to be sure the gauge is not itself stuck.

Leaks in well piping will usually require pulling the piping in the well and if no leak is observed there, it may be necessary to excavate along the path of the well line between well and building.

This includes "hidden" leaks such as a leak in the piping inside the well or between the well and the building.

If such a leak is present you may observe that water pressure in the system drops when the pump is turned off even though no water is running in the building.

Start excavation by looking for wet spots on the ground that could be caused by a well piping leak.

See WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS

Also AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES

Loss of water in the well

The well water level may have dropped and the pump is unable to pick up and deliver water in sufficient volume

This is possible if the well piping has a low-water tailpiece installed to protect a submersible pump from burnup.

If water level in the well drops too low, the tailpiece causes water to re circulate through the pump rather than being sent up the piping to the building served by the well.

If the well water level has fallen too low or the well recovery rate is too poor, or if the well pump is oversized for the well flow rate, the pump may run continuously.

Other symptoms of this problem include air discharge at plumbing fixtures.

First: turn off the pump and leave it off for 2-24 hours to see if allowing the well to recover fixes the trouble.

Then: Install a properly-sized well pump matched to the well flow rate.

Install a tailpiece and/or low water cutoff device to protect the pump from damage.

Investigate and fix the cause of a poor flow rate or low-yield well.

See

WELL FLOW RATE

SAFE YIELD for a WELL

WELL LIFE EXPECTANCY

WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR

WATER QUANTITY IMPROVEMENT

WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE

See these articles: WELL FLOW RATE and

also WELL FLOW RATE - YIELD IMPROVEMENT METHODS How to Get More Water From a Well without drilling a new well, and

see WELL LIFE EXPECTANCY how long should a water well and its components last?

A failing well piping low water cutoff control or well tailpiece

The low water cutoff or tailpiece are devices intended to protect the well pump from damage by a low-flow or poor recovery rate well.

The device may have failed or one may be absent & needed.

See WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE if your well has a tailpiece in the well.

See WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH if your pump controls include a pump protector.

Low voltage in the electrical supply

Some pumps will continue to pump but with less power (in gpm or lift) if the supply voltage falls below the pump's design level.

More rarely, we've had a report of a 240V pump that continued to run on 120V when power had been lost on one leg of the circuit - a condition that I [DF] found doubtful.

VOLTS MEASUREMENT METHODS

Plugged ejector assembly, tailpiece,or foot valve or well screen in the well

Debris clogging the screen at the water pickup in the well can reduce the water flow rate.

To diagnose and correct this problem, it is necessary to pull the well piping and inspect the ejector, tailpiece, foot valve or well screen for clogging

Clean or replace the clogged parts.

See
  WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES

  WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES

  WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS

  WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE

Water pump is damaged

Damaged or clogged impeller

The water pump may have suffered internal damage to a seal, bearing, or impeller.

The motor will keep running but the pump is unable to develop normal pressures.

"Damage" may include a broken impeller blade, scale or debris clogging the impeller or other pump components, or a failing pump seal or bearing.

A bad internal well pump seal will almost always cause a reduced ability of the pump to reach cut-off pressure as well as reducing the pump's flow or production rate in gallons or liters per minute.

Check the rubber O-ring or gasket seal between the pump's diffuser and the pump case (volute).

See LIFE EXPECTANCY of WATER PUMPS - Well Pumps:

How long should a water pump last? What affects pump life?

The wrong sized-jet may be installed

In the well where a 2-line jet pump is installed, the jet is improperly sized or not matched to the pump.

Review the jet pump's installation manual, capacity.

If the 2-line jet pump was replaced but the foot valve and jet in the well were matched to an older pump of different capacity, you may need to change the jet in the well.

See FOOT VALVES

See WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM

Well pump pressure capacity is inadequate

A well pump that cannot pump water pressure up to the pressure control-switch cut-off point.

If you are confident that none of the explanations above diagnose a well pump that runs on,

Check that the pressure gauge is itself accurate - that's how we make sure that the pressure control switch is not set above pump capacity.

Having eliminated all of the explanations above, we suspect the pump may have become internally damaged and it will need repair or replacement.

Turn off electrical power to the well system, remove system water pressure (save water for pump re-priming if necessary).

Remove and inspect the well pump and pump motor for proper operation.

Check the pump impeller assembly for mechanical damage, broken internal parts, or mineral deposits or debris clogging that reduce water flow through the pump.

Replace the impeller assembly and other pump parts as needed or replace the entire pump assembly.

See
WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM

WELL PUMP TYPES & LIFE EXPECTANCY

WELL PUMP PRIMING GUIDE

Well pump lift capacity is exceeded

Compare pump lift capacity to the actual water lift height.

Note the actual total water lift height from point of pick-up in the well to highest point in the well piping to which the pump must lift water.

See the lift capacity for your pump in the pump's data specifications or data tag or installation manual.

See WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM

Notes to the table above

Some of the well pump troubleshooting suggestions in this list can be found at the Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual from the National Pump Co.

BETTA-FLO JET PUMP INSTALLATION MANUAL,[PDF] National Pump Company, 7706 North 71st Ave., Glendale, AZ 85303, Tel: (800) 966-5240 Email: info@natlpump.com, website: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com, retrieved anew 9/13/12, original source: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com/pdf/Betta_Flo_IOM_Jet_Pump.pdf

Thank you to our readers for their generous comments

Reader Kudos: U.S.A., Portugal, Spain, Mexico, Australia, New Zealand, U.K. readers welcomed

Every now and then you find a gem of a website and this is one. I work in maintenance and have recently encountered pump problems with different specialists with different suggestions and solutions but no resolution. I'm hoping with access to my new pump bible I'll get answers and solutions. Antecipate my frequent requests for help. Cheers from Portugal (Nov 18, 2012) Ruairi Dunne

Excellent website!! Great source of information, written in a clear, easy to understand manner. Was able to troubleshoot a problem myself and save lots of money by not having to call in a plumber. Thank you!! (Aug 10, 2012) Frank

...

Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

Well pump would not stop - problem traced to clogged well screen

I had a pump that would not shut down.

This site allowed me to go through each possible potential cause and after a few visits to the site and about 2 hours I pulled the 1/2"stone out of the internal injector screen and we have water.

Thanks a million. Happy Wife Happy Life!:) (May 2, 2012) Denis(satisfaction)

Reply:

Nice going Denis.

Indeed without a more sophisticated well pump controller that monitors current draw, we can't tell the difference betweeen a well that has run out of water and a well whose foot valve screen has become debris clogged, not allowing water to enter the pump.

How do I know if a submersible pump is running continuously?

How do I know if a pump is running continuously? Unlike an aboveground jet pump, with a submersible pump it's in the well: I can't see nor hear it.

[This question pertains to a submersible well pump that, because it's down in the well casing or bore, won't be heard when it's running - Ed.] On 2020-08-03 by Bob Soldivera -

Answer by (mod) - several solutions, some easy, some technical.

@Bob Soldivera,

Watch the pressure gauge:

You might notice that the water pressure gauge runs up to and hovers at a high pressure, but that alone isn 't a good diagnostic. Rather we need to see if the pump is drawing electrical power - telling us that it's running.

Check the pump current draw:

If you have access to an amp probe meter or know some one to borrow one from, clamp amp probe around wires that most accessible.

Watch out: if you're not trained in safe electrical work, don't start fooling with electrical switches and contacts: get help from an electrician or pump installer - else you could be shocked or killed.

Listen to the pressure control switch:

When you're running water the switch will periodically click to turn the pump ON (and gauge pressure should go up) or click to turn the pump OFF (when you stop running water or if/when the pump is able to re-pressurize the system enough to reach the pump switch CUT-OUT pressure)

If the switch clicked and pressure went up and the switch never clicked a second time when you stopped running water the pump may be continuing to run, so next:

Look at and/or test current at the pressure control switch:

Either the pressure switch(note if pressure switch is close and contacts are together this would also insinuate pump is running if switch isn’t faulty) or any place the wires are easily accessible because amp probe needs to clamp around wire while being live.

This will tell the amps and verify the pump is running. All info for your pump should be on a sticker mounted on water tank. But you can search online if you know voltage(110-220volt) and hp. Hope this helps!

...

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Citations & Reviewers

In addition to any citations in the article above, a full list is available on request.

Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual [PDF] National Pump Co., LLC., includes helpful well pump troubleshooting tips as well as basic jet pump installation details. Web search 07/15/2010, original source: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com/Documents/OIM/Betta%20Flo%20IOM%20Jet%20Pump.pdf
In addition to citations & references found in this article, see the research citations given at the end of the related articles found at our suggested

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Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. Tel: (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 Email: info@carsondunlop.com. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.

Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The HOME REFERENCE BOOK - the Encyclopedia of Homes and to use illustrations from The ILLUSTRATED HOME .

Carson Dunlop Associates provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material. In gratitude we provide links to tsome Carson Dunlop Associates products and services.

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Water Pump Won't Stop Running

Fix a well pump that won't turn off or doesn't reach cut-off pressure

Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off

What to Check if the Well Pump Will Not Stop Running

Notes to the table above

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Well pump would not stop - problem traced to clogged well screen

Reply:

How do I know if a submersible pump is running continuously?

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INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS

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Citations & Reviewers

InspectAPedia®

FREE Encyclopedia of Building & Environmental Construction, Diagnosis, Maintenance & Repair The accuracy & trustworthiness of every article or Q&A is researched by human experts. See WHO ARE WE?

Question? Just ask us!

Water Pump Won't Stop Running Fix a well pump that won't turn off or doesn't reach cut-off pressure

Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off

What to Check if the Well Pump Will Not Stop Running

Notes to the table above

Thank you to our readers for their generous comments

Reader Kudos: U.S.A., Portugal, Spain, Mexico, Australia, New Zealand, U.K. readers welcomed

Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

Well pump would not stop - problem traced to clogged well screen

Reply:

How do I know if a submersible pump is running continuously?

Recommended Articles

Suggested citation for this web page

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS

Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia

Citations & Reviewers

InspectAPedia^®

FREE Encyclopedia of Building & Environmental Construction, Diagnosis, Maintenance & Repair

The accuracy & trustworthiness of every article or Q&A is researched by human experts. See WHO ARE WE?

Water Pump Won't Stop Running

Fix a well pump that won't turn off or doesn't reach cut-off pressure