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Water Pump Won't Stop Running
Diagnose & Repair well pumps that don't turn off or can't reach cutoff pressure
- POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about how to fix a well pump that won't stop running: causes & cures
Why won't our water pump turn off?
Several problems can cause a water pump to keep running instead of shutting off when it should, and each of these suggests its own diagnostic step to finding out what's happening with your well pump.
This article explains how to diagnose & repair a bore hole or well water water pump that keeps on running and won't shut off. While the repair may be a simple adjustment to the pressure control switch, we warn that there are other causes of continuous pump running that are more serious such as a plumbing leak or a failing well. We warn that the pump may be damaged if the cause is not fixed promptly.
Here is our Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off. We include water pump manufacturer contact information for most borehole or well pump brands.
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?
Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off
The photograph at page top shows a one-line jet pump, the water pressure tank, and a water softener.
We know from the fact that this is a single line jet well pump that the well is a shallow one, probably less than 27' deep. Well depth may have implications for water quantity and quality and vulnerability to surface water contamination.
[Click to enlarge any image]
Watch out: the first thing to do to protect your pump from damage if it simply won't turn off is to shut off electrical power to the pump.
If the building has no water pressure, turn off the water pump immediately.
Running a water pump "dry" risks causing internal damage to the pump. If there is no water pressure at all,
see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR.
How to diagnose a water pump that won't shut off - the well pump keeps on running. Step through the diagnostic points in the table below.
| What to Check if the Well Pump Will Not Stop Running | ||
|---|---|---|
| Pump Won't Stop Cause | Diagnostic Procedure | Repair Procedure |
Water running in the building If water is running somewhere in the building water supply system (don't forget outside garden hoses and lawn sprinklers) at a rate faster than the pump can deliver from the well, the pump will run continuously. |
Turn off the main water supply to the building, typically found at the water pressure tank. If the pump continues to run the problem is not likely to be a running fixture or pipe leak downstream (in the building) from this point. If you have turned off water at the water pressure tank and the well pump is still running, before blaming the pump, controls, piping, well, look once more for water supply piping that may be ahead of the valve where you turned off water. |
Turn off or repair running toilets, outdoor garden hose hook-ups or lawn sprinklers, or supply piping that is leaking. If this was the problem source, the well pump will continue to run until pressure builds up to the pressure control switch cut-out level and the pump should stop. If the pump runs on, check the remaining diagnostic steps below. |
Lost prime at the well pump If the above-ground (jet pump) pump has lost prime the pump may be running "dry" continuously. |
A bad check valve or failed foot valve can lead to loss of well prime. A leaky foot valve in the well or a hidden running water source in the building such as a running toilet can also cause this symptom. If the pump is a submersible unit in the well, loss of prime is not normally an issue. |
Watch out: turn off the pump immediately to avoid damage. If no water is being delivered and the pump is running and it's an above ground pump, turn off power and inspect the pump cavity for the presence of water by removing the priming plug. See WELL PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE for two methods that almost always work to get a dry well pump going again. Make sure that you have adequately primed the pump and do not let a well pump run dry - you are likely to damage it. If the problem is recurrent see WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE |
NEW VERSION Water pressure control switch setting errors Improper switch adjustment can cause too-rapid pump cycling |
If you or someone else has tried "adjusting" the cut-in or cut-out settings of the pressure control switch, it may be set improperly. Setting the cut-out pressure above the pump's capacity can cause the pump to run continuously. |
Check / change pressure switch pressure settings to correct adjustment for cut-in and cut-out. Normally we see about 20 psi between cut-in and cut-out pressures. Lower the pump cut-out pressure setting. If the pump stops, this was the problem. See: This is more likely if someone has been fooling around with the switch. |
Water pressure switch tubing clogged Clogged pressure sensor or switch pressure sensing tubing can cause improper switch performance.
|
If the switch is not responding consistently to changes in building water pressure, the pressure-sensing component of the switch or the tubing connecting it may be defective. Try removing the tubing and blowing air through it. |
Check pressure switch tubing for leaks or clogging. Clean or replace the tubing. The clog could also be debris in the orifice on the bottom of the pressure switch sensor, or inside the sensor requiring that the switch be replaced. See: PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT See also WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL - home |
Water pressure switch contact points burned/welded
|
Arcing may have burned the pressure control switch contacts. In some cases the contacts may become "welded" together in the closed (power on) position. Turn off electrical power (for safety) and examine the contact points. If they are stuck together and burned, this may be the problem. |
You will need to replace the switch. |
| Water pressure switch or pump electrical wiring incorrectly-installed | A reader reported that their well pump had been wired incorrectly when it was installed, such that the pump ran continuously. This dangerous error is more likely to occur with a submersible pump whose noise is not going to be heard. The reader noticed that building water pressure was sometimes dangerously high, around 100 psi! A burst pipe or water tank can both flood the building and injure anyone who is nearby. The effects of an always-on switch also include pump damage and failure, exhausting the water well and of course an elevated electric bill. |
Ask your licensed electrician to review the pump circuit wiring and control wiring. Also check for a pressure control switch whose contact points have welded shut as that, too, will keep the pump running. |
Well piping leak A bad leak anywhere in the well piping between the building water pressure tank and the bottom of the well can leak enough water when the pump is running that the pump cannot raise pressure in the pressure tank up to the cut-out level and the well pump will continue running. |
A leak anywhere on the well piping, including on the suction line of a 2-line jet pump, will also cause the pump to run-on or to lose the ability to pump to higher pressures. Close the main building water supply valve between the pressure tank and the rest of the building. Also air coming out of building plumbing fixtures can be caused by air leaks into the same well piping when the pump is not running. |
Turn off the well pump electrical power. Watch the water pressure gauge. If pressure continues to drop there may be a leak in well piping. If the gauge does not move, tap it to be sure the gauge is not itself stuck. Leaks in well piping will usually require pulling the piping in the well and if no leak is observed there, it may be necessary to excavate along the path of the well line between well and building. This includes "hidden" leaks such as a leak in the piping inside the well or between the well and the building. If such a leak is present you may observe that water pressure in the system drops when the pump is turned off even though no water is running in the building. Start excavation by looking for wet spots on the ground that could be caused by a well piping leak. |
Loss of water in the well |
The well water level may have dropped and the pump is unable to pick up and deliver water in sufficient volume This is possible if the well piping has a low-water tailpiece installed to protect a submersible pump from burnup. If the well water level has fallen too low or the well recovery rate is too poor, or if the well pump is oversized for the well flow rate, the pump may run continuously. Other symptoms of this problem include air discharge at plumbing fixtures. |
First: turn off the pump and leave it off for 2-24 hours to see if allowing the well to recover fixes the trouble. Then: Install a properly-sized well pump matched to the well flow rate. Install a tailpiece and/or low water cutoff device to protect the pump from damage. Investigate and fix the cause of a poor flow rate or low-yield well. See
|
| A failing well piping low water cutoff control or well tailpiece |
The low water cutoff or tailpiece are devices intended to protect the well pump from damage by a low-flow or poor recovery rate well. The device may have failed or one may be absent & needed. |
See WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE if your well has a tailpiece in the well. See WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH if your pump controls include a pump protector. |
| Low voltage in the electrical supply | Some pumps will continue to pump but with less power (in gpm or lift) if the supply voltage falls below the pump's design level. More rarely, we've had a report of a 240V pump that continued to run on 120V when power had been lost on one leg of the circuit - a condition that I [DF] found doubtful. |
VOLTS MEASUREMENT METHODS |
| Plugged ejector assembly, tailpiece,or foot valve or well screen in the well | Debris clogging the screen at the water pickup in the well can reduce the water flow rate. To diagnose and correct this problem, it is necessary to pull the well piping and inspect the ejector, tailpiece, foot valve or well screen for clogging |
Clean or replace the clogged parts. See |
Water pump is damaged Damaged or clogged impeller |
The water pump may have suffered internal damage to a seal, bearing, or impeller. The motor will keep running but the pump is unable to develop normal pressures. "Damage" may include a broken impeller blade, scale or debris clogging the impeller or other pump components, or a failing pump seal or bearing. |
A bad internal well pump seal will almost always cause a reduced ability of the pump to reach cut-off pressure as well as reducing the pump's flow or production rate in gallons or liters per minute. How long should a water pump last? What affects pump life? |
| The wrong sized-jet may be installed | In the well where a 2-line jet pump is installed, the jet is improperly sized or not matched to the pump. | Review the jet pump's installation manual, capacity. If the 2-line jet pump was replaced but the foot valve and jet in the well were matched to an older pump of different capacity, you may need to change the jet in the well. See FOOT VALVES |
Well pump pressure capacity is inadequate A well pump that cannot pump water pressure up to the pressure control-switch cut-off point. |
If you are confident that none of the explanations above diagnose a well pump that runs on, Having eliminated all of the explanations above, we suspect the pump may have become internally damaged and it will need repair or replacement. |
Turn off electrical power to the well system, remove system water pressure (save water for pump re-priming if necessary). Remove and inspect the well pump and pump motor for proper operation. Check the pump impeller assembly for mechanical damage, broken internal parts, or mineral deposits or debris clogging that reduce water flow through the pump. Replace the impeller assembly and other pump parts as needed or replace the entire pump assembly. See |
Well pump lift capacity is exceeded |
Compare pump lift capacity to the actual water lift height. See the lift capacity for your pump in the pump's data specifications or data tag or installation manual.
|
|
Notes to the table above
Some of the well pump troubleshooting suggestions in this list can be found at the Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual from the National Pump Co.
- BETTA-FLO JET PUMP INSTALLATION MANUAL,[PDF] National Pump Company, 7706 North 71st Ave., Glendale, AZ 85303, Tel: (800) 966-5240 Email: info@natlpump.com, website: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com, retrieved anew 9/13/12, original source: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com/pdf/Betta_Flo_IOM_Jet_Pump.pdf
...
Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above
Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs
On 2023-08-25 y InspectApedia Publisher (mod) - include checkng pump motor itself
@MH,
see
inspectapedia.com/electric/Electric_Motor_Diagnosis.php ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSIS
start by comparing current draw to the manufacturer's specifications.
Watch out: if you're not trained & experienced with safe electrical testing and wiring you could be shocked or killed. Hire an expert.
On 2023-08-25 by MH (mod)
@InspectApedia Publisher,
Everything was brand new and replaced. Venturi, foot valve and then screen/cage, pump. only thing I can think of is something is partially plugged of the in injector during install, I got a bad pump.
The surging stopped but the pump struggles to reach 45 psi.
Another piece of the puzzle is if Isolate the pump from the pressure tank/house and leave it for a week the pressure drops from 45 psi to about 12psi. It never loses the pressure completely so that leads me to believe there is no leaks and the foot valve is fine. I can only assume it's related to the ambient temperature...
What kind of electrical tests can I do besides making sure it's getting the proper voltage?
On 2023-08-25 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod)
@MH,
yes certainly - tests of the motor can indicate operating problems like a bad bearing.
https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Electric_Motor_Diagnosis.php ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSIS
BUT I must add that from your description of this "pump won't stop running" problem as "going away on its own" I have to suspect that there was a blockage or clog in the screen, foot valve, check valve, or in the pump itself or its impeller or outlet.
OR the pressure control switch itself is debris clogged.
On 2023-08-25 by MH (mod)
@InspectApedia Publisher,
So far I've just confirmed that it's receiving the correct voltage. Is there anything else on the electrical side I could check?
Thu, Aug 24
On 2023-08-25 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod)
@MH
It makes sense to check the impeller and also to do some electrical test on the motor itself and finally to be alert for leaks in the pump or piping system.
On 2023-08-25 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod)
@InspectApedia Publisher,
Not really, the pump just randomly started getting good flow without surging after I primed it again but I didn't do anything different.
I got divers to visually inspect the intake screen and the lines out in the water the best they could, no issues.
But now won't build pressure past 45 psi so there's still something wrong. My next step will be to take it apart and check the impeller. - M.H. August 24, 2023
On 2023-08-25 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod)
@MH,
any update on this pump surging problem? -
Aug 19, 2023
On 2023-08-25 y MH (mod)
@InspectApedia Publisher,
Will do. I'll report back.
Jul 15, 2023, 7:36 PM
On 2023-08-25 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod)
@MH,
havent tried those fixes - worth a shot but I'm not optimistic.
As your pick-up is under a lake surface I'm not worried that you have a "well running dry" so it pretty much has to be an air leak.
Before other experiments tighten your hose clamps and even try doubling them up or replacing any connectors you suspect. I've found that this works most of the time.
Let me know what you try - if you find a fix without actually fixing the leak - that'll surely help lots of other people. - DF
On 2023-08-25 by MH (mod)
@InspectApedia Publisher,
Unfortunately there's only about 7 feet of pipe before the two suction lines 90 and go into the foundation and put to the lake. I check both of the accessible fittings/gear clamps.
If there is an air leak it would be underground... so not much I can do with that.
I'm wondering if there is a nozzle or something I can put into the return line to over come this? Since it still gets to 40 psi... Just not consistently..
Or maybe there's some weird cavitation happening... Would getting a larger diameter impeller or having a pump running at lower speeds help? -
Sat, Jul 15, 7:31 PM
On 2023-08-25 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod)
@MH,
I'm not sure what you mean by "pump is offline" but in general
You can watch for a pressure drop when the pump is off and no water is running, but let's start with the easy:
snug up every one of those screw clamps on your water lines
If the pump and tank pressure remains stable when all valves are open and no water is being run that suggests that there is no leak on the building side and that there is no "hidden" water use such as a running toilet or a dripping supply line in the building.
But it doesn't rule out a leak on the well side of the above-ground jet pump.
Still my first suspicion in a case like this is the pump itself: its impeller could be damaged or debris-clogged or the pump motor or bearing could be failing.
-DF - Sat, Jul 15, 7:23 PM
On 2023-08-25 y MH (mod)
@InspectApedia Publisher,
Thanks for the quick reply.
Is there any thing I can do to test for this? Would putting pressure gauges on both suction lines help? Or would they all read the same as the discharge?
When the pump is offline it doesn't lose pressure.
On 2023-07-15 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod) - need help with pump that won't stop
@RE-posted from private email,
That sounds like you've got an air leak in piping or at the pump itself.
Try tightening every pipe connection that's accessible and check to see if you can snug down any screws or bolts and fittings at the pump itself, especially at around the impeller assembly.
Keep us posted.
On 2023-07-15 9 by RE-posted from private email (mod)
I need some help.
Problem: my jet pump fluctuates between 15-35psi and will not build any pressure higher than that. There is a swooshing or surging sound that continually occurs.
Location: it pulls water from a lake to supply the house. Lift is 40ft distance from foot valve to pump is 90ft.
Equipment:
brand new 2 line version of the Franklin electric rm2 jet pump 220v
Brand new, Cage/screen, venturi and foot valve
I blocked in the discharge of the pump.
I primed the pump by using a auxiliary plug -in pump plumbed into the top suction line.
I then circulated fluid through and bled the water through a tee on the discharge line for about an hour.
When the pump is off it'll hold the pressure solid so I don't think there are any leaks on the suction line.
The pump continues to swoosh and surges though there's still air in it. - Anonymous by private email 2023/07/15
On 2023-06-07 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod) - deep well jet pump continually running
@Mike,
Based on your ensuing description after installing a new pump, I'm not sure that the original pump was the cause of the problem.
Let's start by stepping through the causes above on this page.
On 2023-06-07 by Mike
I was having some issues with my deep well jet pump continually running so, I changed out a 25+ year old Goulds 3/4hp jet pump with a A.Y. McDonald 3/4hp jet pump. All went well with the change out. No leaks, the correct voltage hooked up and the pressure tank is good and set to the correct psi(28) but, I am still having the same issues. The pressure switch is set at 30-50psi. It cuts-in at 30psi like normal and takes about 5-10 minutes to climb up to 48psi. Then it will run continuously for 30 or more minutes to gain that final 2psi and cut-out at 50psi. Sometimes when it has been running for more than 45 minutes I can tap the water pressure tubing with something and it will make the pressure jump and cut-out or I can flip the breaker off and back on to get to cut-out. Installed a new pressure switch just to eliminate that as the issue. Double checked for leaks inside the house. Checked for leaks/ soggy ground outside the house from the well to where the piping enters the house. Still no leaks found. Have not checked anything down in the well. I have good water pressure at all times during showers, laundry, dishwasher, flushing toilets etc but, will lose prime/pressure when I am filling my pool using and outside spigot that has no water restrictors. The water continues to flow but at a very decreased rate while the pressure gauge is bouncing around 0 to 15psi. I think that maybe my injector has a crack or is leaking or my foot/check valve has gone bad. Not sure, I was hoping for an opinion from someone who knows more about this than I do. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
On 2023-05-28 by InspectApedia DF (mod) - My water pump continuously runs
@Jim,
Yes, that's possible.
Have you looked at our diagnostic table above in this article titled
What to Check if the Well Pump Will Not Stop Running
There we walk through a number of possibilities for diagnosis and repair of a pump that keeps running. It sounds like you've already eliminated a couple of them.
Please let us know if that still leaves you with questions.
IF as the pump runs continuously it is actually delivering water, then the problem isn't likely to be the foot valve. More-likely it'll then be one of the causes listed on this page.
On 2023-05-28 by Jim
My water pump continuously runs. I do not have any leaks and I do have pressure. Can my issue be a bad foot valve?
On 2023-05-17 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod) - While my water is running the pressure switch won't cut off.
@Brian,
That can certainly happen if the rate at which water is being used is more than the pump can exceed. In that case it will run continuously until you turn off water. The limiting factor could be the pump or it could be the flow rate of your well.
On 2023-05-16 by Brian
While my water is running the pressure switch won't cut off.
On 2023-03-24 by InspectApedia Editor - which pipe is which on a two line jet pump
@Craig,
Clarifying which pipe is which on a two line jet pump
About supply and return, figure that we need to be sending less water down into the well to retrieve water back to the building than water that we are retrieving from the well - else our system won't give us any water.
See WATER PUMP, TWO LINE JET
There we call the "down line" the "pressure" line and the "up line" the "suction line" - you should be able to find those or similar names in the installation instructions for your jet pump. If you are finding different usages and names of those two pipes do let me know, and give me the brand and model jet pump so that we can look at the IO manual too. And get wiser.
Typically the suction line is 1 1/4"
and the pressure line or drive line is 1" in diameter.
I agree that going to a submersible pump can give good water supply.
But consider the trouble and costs.
To install a submersible (in well) pump you're still going to have to completely pull the well piping, and you're going to have to replace the old pipes with a new line connected to the new submersible pump.
- you may need to run a new water line from house to well - more trenching and cost - OR use one of the two existing ones, re-fitting at house and pump ends - are you sure there's no leak in the buried well pipes?
You're also going to have to run a completely new electric power line from the house to the well, so you can add the cost of trenching to run the wire as well as costs for
- the electrician
- the wire
- a new pump controller that turns the pump on and off
The cost of that is quite a bit more than just replacing the well pipes to your ejector at the bottom of your existing well pipe system.
If you don't think you or. your contractor can reliably recognize a leak in the existing well piping,
AND if you're sure the leak is in or at the well, NOT in the piping between well and house, then simply replace both the pressure and suction line as well as the injector/foot valve.
Compare the costs
It's ok with me, I just want the work to be clear. And of course, successful.
On 2023-03-24 by Craig
@InspectApedia Editor ,
Okay so you've provided lots of information and I'll see if I can respond with any clarity here as I do appreciate your assistance in providing additional detail.
Cycling pump was at roughly 30 min intervals which caused me to go into attempting to determine if the loss was in the house or outside(no visible signs of leaks in the house nor was any water running...toilets etc) I closed the valve from the well to the house and that is when the pressure dropped off so I knew it was external to the house somewhere.
Running the pump at this point was continuous as it would not ever build back the pressure. For this reason I was on the continuous running portion of the content here and not the others.
The Jet pump itself is only 4 years old and so yes I suppose it is possible the leak was at the pump itself but was not as probable to me as other items.
Your comments regarding the size of lines throws me a bit as I thought the larger line was supply and the smaller was the return. My interpretation of your comments seem to contradict themselves but I believe we're both on the same page as for which is supply and return.
I was fortunate enough today to have another gentleman come out today and have a look and...no apparent leak in the well itself( both lines had water in them and seemed to hold pressure) His methodology and diagnostics were more inline with what I would think would be required to determine/solve the issue.
One of the lines from the house to the well is bad. That being said, I have opted to just upgrade that Jet pump to a submersible given the challenges with finding anyone with the skill/desire to address that style of pump(Jet) and system. At least there will be less need for significant digging in the future should maintenance be needed.
Hopefully it will provide me many years of comfort and performance....considering the price. (ouch) Given the challenges this time to address this issue, I didn't want to go through it again and came to the conclusion this was the best choice/option?
If there are any particular pictures I can take and post let me know but I don't know that there is really anything off hand that would be of any significant value at this point. I do apologize for not providing any earlier as they really can be worth a thousand words when attempting to describe something.
Jobs not complete yet though so we'll just have to wait and see. Thanks again for reading and responding...it really is appreciated and I'm sure all that are fortunate enough to find this website would agree!
On 2023-03-24 by InspectApedia Editor - is cycling intermittent or constant
@Craig,
In your initial question you said the pump cycles but didn't say if that cycling was intermittent or constant - a diagnostic detail that would be helpful.
By "constant cycling" I mean that the pump turns on - and then off - every few minutes or less.
see SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP for those details
By "intermittent cycling" I mean that the pump seems to run at odd times when you think no water is being run in the building it serves.
see INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS for diagnostic details
By pump running continuously - that's the subject of the diagnostics on this page where you're posting: WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING. https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Pump_Runs_On.php.
Our complete list of pump diagnostic articles is at
WATER PRESSURE TABLE 1: PUMP WON'T RUN, WON'T STOP, or CYCLES
Now about your recent post:
Where a 2-line jet pump is installed the two lines, of different sizes, are
- a smaller line that sends water DOWN into the well from the pump where it runs through a venturi at the foot valve that in turn picks up a greater volume of water that is sent
- up a larger line bringing water back to the pump and onwards into the building and water pressure tank
So one of those lines may be leaking and the other not. The fact that your pump pressure falls to zero immediately when you close off the valve between pump and water pressure tank makes me think the leak is in the larger return-line. But I'm not certain of that.
If by "disconnected the supply side elbow" you're talking about the smaller diameter line that sends water down from the pump, that's consistent with my guess above that the leak is in the return line or its fittings.
The company you had who just looked at the pump itself would have been fine if their work had fixed the problem - that can be the case if the leak is at the pump itself, such as an air leak in.
But I infer that their work didn't help.
If you pull the well piping you can pressure test it above ground if necessary, but I suspect you're going to find either
- a loose leaky fitting/connection
- an abraded or split leak in the piping itself.
Keep us posted. What you find - and photo document for us - would help other readers diagnosing similar pump cycling problems.
On 2023-03-24 by Craig
@InspectApedia Editor ,
Thank you for your response. I was just confused by water still in the vertical supply side.
The pressure being measured at the pump side of the shut off when observing the drop to zero when the valve to the house is closed.
I've got roughly 20' of pipe(both supply and return each) that runs from my basement pump to the well area(roughly horizontal) which is below grade in a circular concrete enclosure with a concrete lid. There is a well cap there that houses the two lines that run vertically down into the well.
That's where I disconnected the supply side elbow and was able to observe water at the top of that vertical line. Does that help clarify the horizontal connection statement. Pipe in all exterior locations is black poly.
I had called a couple companies and one was able to send someone out as I was hoping they would have the tools to more accurately diagnose the problem like pressure test the lines to determine if it was a piping issue or any additional clarity/confirmation as to the water in the supply line holding water.
They never looked at the well itself or any of the piping, just worked on the well pump and left after a dispatch and diagnostic fee with nothing changed.
I would agree with the comment that if the well piping (vertical) needs to be pulled that the venturi and foot valve might as well be replaced. My concern is that I would not be able to properly/successfully detect a non obvious leak and be stuck in the same place after all that work.
What would cause a leak in a poly pipe and is that common in these situations? Would it be large enough to be seen by the visible eye? Just scratching my head and trying to work smarter not harder. If this leak is somewhere on that horizontal side then I would be wasting my time pulling up that line, replace the components and still have the problem.
Thank you again for your response!
On 2023-03-23 by InspectApedia Editor - if the pump continues to cycle on and off, then almost certainly there is a leak somewhere
@Craig,
If we shut off water between the water supply and the building and the pump continues to cycle on and off, then almost certainly there is a leak somewhere in the well piping, pitless adapter, or foot valve.
When you shut off water between pump and house and pressure fell to zero - where was pressure being measured: on the house side or on the pump-side of the shut-off?
I'm not sure what "horizontal connection" you removed nor where - at the entry of well piping into the well? below ground at a pitless adapter?
You might see more of a clue by sending a well inspection camera down the well but I suspect you're going to have to pull and inspect the well piping, and while it's up, replace the foot valve anyway.
On 2023-03-22 by Craig
I have a relatively new goulds(j105) two line jet pump installed in my basement, the pump began cycling recently(past 48hrs or so) with no water running. I've checked for leaks in the house and there are none so I shut the valve between the pump and the house and pressure immediately drops to zero.
I thought it was the foot valve based on this information but when I dug up the well and removed the horizontal connection on the supply side there was still standing in the vertical pipe and some water came out of the horizontal(not a lot).
This to me suggested it's not the foot valve so I stopped and am confused on a direction at this point as I was half hoping that it was as easy as just replacing the foot valve. No apparent leaks in the lines that I can tell at the surface level.....not sure how to proceed from here.
Is it likely that I have a leak somewhere in the vertical return side.....why would that present itself all of a sudden. *scratching my head and trying to determine path forward. Any and all suggestions/help is greatly appreciated.
On 2023-01-01 by Mona
@InspectApedia Publisher,
I now have water! He put about a quart of water in the pump and now works! We expected it to take more but he said it only took a quart so good! Thank you for the help!
On 2023-01-01 by InspectApedia Publisher
@Mona,
That sounds right. Do let us know what you're told and what works - that will surely help other readers who are without water after freezing weather.
On 2023-01-01 by Mona
@InspectApedia Publisher, yes, thank you. Someone is coming today to try and prime the pump by pouring water in it. Hopefully it helps and I get water back.
On 2022-12-31 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod) - NO water pump is hard wired in such a way that it does not require a pressure control switch
@Mona,
NO water pump is hard wired in such a way that it does not require a pressure control switch, though some water pumps might include the pressure control built-into the pump itself.
I appreciate that you've done your best to describe the situation and the trouble you're facing getting water pressure, but as you're not a plumber and don't know where to look or what parts look like, our own ability to see and understand and thus give advice about your water and pump system has us peeping in near darkness through the eye of a needle: we just can't see enough to give any more advice than I've given that would not be so speculative as to be of little use.
You need an on-site experienced plumber to examine your pump, water pressure tank, pump controls, piping and fixtures to understand if the "no water" problem you have is due to
- simply frozen pipes
- a burst and leaking pipe or fixture
- a damaged pump control
- a damaged water pump
- no water in your well or other water source
- something else that we haven't considered
Please get someone ON SITE to help you with this
and
keep us posted. We want you to have water asap.
On 2022-12-31 by Mona
Hi, now a new question. My pump is hard-wired, so it has no pressure switch to hold at a 45 degree angle to prime the pump. How do I prime the pump? Do I need to put water in it somewhere? Last it was checked, the pump had 30 in pressure. Used a tire gage to check it. Thanks
On 2022-12-31 by Mona
@InspectApedia Publisher, Sorry, I refreshed my page and still did not see any answer to my last comment
Thank you, I am starting to get a little water out of my faucets but the pump, it still runs but the gage wont move from zero. I'm sure it needs primed, but since it's hard wired, I have no lever to hold at a 45 degree angle. The thaw is continuing.
On 2022-12-30 by InspectApedia Publisher
@Mona,
I just can't think of anything further to say that would be useful - I'd just be repeating myself. Do take a look at the discussion, your questions, our replies, and the advice in the article above.
On 2022-12-29 by Mona
@InspectApedia Publisher, hi, so you're also in agreement with me that I may as well just wait until everything thaws and see what happens,, thanks so much for your trouble!
On 2022-12-29 by InspectApedia Publisher - if pipes are frozen , the pump can't deliver water
@Mona,
We are in agreement that if you have frozen pipes, the pump can't deliver water.
Pretty much every water pump will have to be controlled - turned on-and-off by a switch somewhere.
On 2022-12-28 by Mona
@InspectApedia Publisher, I was told it had no switch because of the set up (softener) I have. I'm sending you a photo of where I thought the switch wouid be. Regardless, I still have no water nothing thawed enough yet. I check the pump daily to see if the gage moves after a couple minutes and when it doesnt I turn the pump off. But anyway, here is a pic of where I thought the switch should go.thanks
Now I'm told the pump does have a switch. I didn't mean the switch doesn't have a switch..sorry. anyway, I was told the pump is hardwired so it has like a light switch. Regardless I'm not sure much good the switch could do anyway if the lines are frozen. Sorry this is so confusing. I'm just told one thing then told another.
On 2022-12-28 by InspectApedia Publisher - Ace 2-line jet pump
@Mona,
OK so at last we can see your water pump: it looks like an Ace 2-line jet pump.
I don't understand what you mean by
" the switch has no switch".
Any water pump will need a pressure control switch though it may not be mounted right on the pump itself.
This photo of a newer-model Ace 2-line jet pump similar to your Ace Jet Pump model - you can see that a pressure control switch, in this case mounted on the side of the pump, senses pressure by a small flexible (black plastic) tube that conducts water pressure from the pumping impeller chamber to the switch bottom. 2-line-
On 2022-12-27 by Mona
@InspectApedia Publisher, I'm sorry, I had to send my three images three different times. I'm hoping you got all of them. tge tank, the switch, and I included the gage just so you couid see it. And like I said, the switch has no switch because of the sorry my cat pic was accidental! here's the pump which is not hot
...
...
...
On 2022-12-27 by Mona
@InspectApedia Publisher, I guess all I can do is wait for the thaw and keep checking. Pump is not hot anymore. Someone who was just here said it was but I checked it and it is not hot at all. Must have been because of the heater I had out there which now I took away. If you still need a picture, I can send it. Thanks
On 2022-12-27 by InspectApedia Publisher - leaving the pump running too long, risks damaging the pump itself
@Mona,
It seems likely that a pipe is frozen somewhere in your system.
I warn again that leaving the pump running to long, if it is not actually water filled nor moving water, risks damaging the pump itself, so don't leave it on for hours at a time.
Watch out: also about running a heater in a too-small space: be sure your heater is used in a way that's fire-safe - not close to combustibles. Usually there are clearance instructions provided with or even right on the heater.
If the pump motor is too hot to touch then it's definitely at risk of damage- leave it turned off.
Sorry.
Post a photo of your pump and its control and we may be able to see and say more.
On 2022-12-27 by Mona
@InspectApedia Publisher, Hi, I've checked for any cold spots and there are none. My pump has no switch to hold at a 45 degree angle to reset the pump because of the set up. Its hooked up to a softener.
I did hear a trickle of water and thought it must be working but no, the gage on the pump still won't move. I ran it for almost an hour but nothing. I'm thinking I'll just have to wait a couple more days until the temps climb a bit higher to the 40s and 50s. Other than that, I'm at a loss.
I've also noticed the pump is hot. Is that normal? I did let it run for about an hour just to see if anything happened. No. But I have 30 pressure in the tank as well. So I guess all I can do is wait for the thaw and keep checking.
On 2022-12-26 by InspectApedia Publisher (mod) - follow water pipes to look for a spot that's particularly cold
@Mona,
Good, now keep me posted.
Also you can try following your water pipes to look for a spot that's particularly cold.
see details at
PIPE FREEZE-UP POINTS
On 2022-12-26 by Mona
@InspectApedia (Editor), ok thank you. I have just plugged a heater in inside the closet where the pump and everything is to possibly help the thaw. I will now turn on all my faucets and see what happens. Thanks alot for the help!
On 2022-12-26 by InspectApedia (Editor) - finding & thawing frozen pipes
@Mona,
I agree that it's smart to turn off the pump to avoid burning up the pump motor.
Advice on finding & thawing frozen pipes is at
FROZEN PIPE THAW-OUT
It's a common but questionable tip to "leave water running slowly to avoid frozen pipes" because of the risk that that low-volume of water may freeze and block or even break a building drain line outside the building.
But indeed when the pipes are almost solidly frozen or during the thaw-out effort I might open all of my faucets wide open for a time. Once water begins to run, even slowly, moving water faster and faster through the pipes as the moving water helps melt the now partially-un-blocked iced-up section of piping, will speed up the pipe thaw.
On 2022-12-26 by Mona
My pipes froze downstairs its below 0 here. But I had water upstairs except the toilet wouldn't flush. Someone told me to let the sink run with a little water coming out of the spigot. Next I know, I had no water upstairs either now my pump wont stop running.
I shut it off since there is no pressure. Any ideas?
On 2022-12-06 by InspectApedia (Editor) - water pump turns on almost immediately as the pressure lowers
@Tim Noffsinger,
Sounds as if the water pressure tank is water-logged.
See
WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD
On 2022-12-06 by Tim Noffsinger
Hello, our water pump turns on almost immediately as the pressure lowers. For example, if we start running water in the kitchen sink, it will run for a dozen seconds or so, and then the well pump kicks on. If we leave the sink running, the pump will run for about 10 seconds and then turn off. As the sink keeps running, the pump will turn on again.
We have done this while I watch the pressure gauge, which barely moves. Is that normal?
On 2022-11-21 by InspectApedia (Editor)
@Matthew Allen,
I'm glad to assist, working together helps us both. Please keep me posted, as what you find will help other readers as well.
On 2022-11-21 by Matthew Allen
@InspectApedia (Editor), Thank you very much for this detailed reply! This is far more helpful than anything else I've been able to find online. Your FIRST guess seems to make the most sense.
Luckily, the issue is at our 2nd home, and we typically only go there maybe once per month in the winter. We will hopefully get by with little water usage when we are there until next spring and then consider our options with a professional well company. Thanks again! Your detailed response is greatly appreciated.
On 2022-11-20 by InspectApedia (Editor) - you may have exhausted the well
@Matthew Allen,
I understand that it's difficult to diagnose pump troubles, but in general, we offer some more advice and ask you to let me know what works for you or what questions remain.
FIRST: the fact that you have no water but after leaving the system OFF for hours or longer you have water again is a strong suggestion that the problem isn't directly the tank, switch, or pump but rather that you've exhausted the well.
If the well has a poor flow rate (at which water flows into the well when water is being taken out) then you can run out, the pump can't deliver water, and there is risk of running the pump "dry" that can in turn damage the pump.
SECOND: your observation that you run out of water when using a lot of water (washing machine) suggests that my FIRST guess is probably the problem.
There are other possibilities that an onsite expert might find such as a pipe leak in the system, but the symptoms point to what I said first - not the other components.
Note this warning -that if you run the pump without water entering the pump it can be damaged.
There are pump protection devices of various sorts (described at this website) that can protect against such damage.
SOLUTION: you may squeeze by for a time by installing a large water storage tank. The pump fills the tank SLOWLY and during times when you're not using water - so that when you have a surge in water demand it's taken from the tank, not directly from the well.
more suggestions are at WATER QUANTITY IMPROVEMENT
You might also ask your well company to do a well flow test.
WELL FLOW TEST for WATER QUANTITY
and see
WELL YIELD IMPROVEMENT - get more water
1. PROBABLY NOT THE WATER PRESSURE TANK: the pressure tank might affect how frequently the pump runs or the length of a pump -on cycle but a tank problem (such as a leak, lost air charge, waterlogged) would never cause the pump to run continuously unless the tank had such a huge hole that it was leaking water out faster than the pump could send water into the tank -
so
it's probably not a tank issue directly.
With this subtle exception: a tank that loses its air charge and then causes rapid pump on-off cycling, if that problem goes on long enough - days or longer - might in turn lead to a damaged pump bearing or impeller or pump motor.
2. POSSIBLY the pressure control switch
- if the switch cut OUT is set higher than the pump can reach
or
- if the pressure switch contacts have burned and become welded shut in the "ON" position
or
- if dirt and debris clogged the pressure switch sensor port so that it doesn't sense the increase in water pressure and so keeps the pump on
Watch out: if this last item occurs, there is danger of a burst water pipe or water tank that could injure someone or flood the building.
IF you replaced the pressure control switch and set it properly and cleaned or replaced the tubing that brings water pressure to the switch, the switch is not likely to be the problem.
On 2022-11-20 by Matthew Allen - well simply would not pump water from the ground
I've read through this entire page, and I still don't know exactly what our issue is. Lost water to the house yesterday. We have a shallow well in a well pit. The pump/pressure tank combo was brand new only 3 years ago.
I opened up the well pit to discover that the pump was running. It was acting as though it lost its prime (which it NEVER does). I opened the cap and added water to try to re-prime it. It simply would not pump water from the ground.
Went to Menards to buy a new pump. Employee there told us it might be the pressure switch. So we bought one of those instead. Got back, took the cap off the pressure switch and manually opened/closed a few times, then plugged the pump back in and magically, everything seemed to be working just fine. All old components in place.
We had water for awhile, but then lost it again a few hours later. Same issue. And now manually triggering the pressure switch on/off wasn't doing anything.
Both times we lost water, we were running the washing machine. When it is filling, it uses a LOT of water, causing water pressure to be almost non-existent in the other faucets in the house. I was in the well pit when the washing machine was filling, and I watched the water pressure gauge on the pump go WAY down, like below 20.
I tried turning the power back on to the pump a few times the rest of the evening, no water. After letting it sit idle (no power) overnight, I tried again this morning, and we magically have water again! But I'm certain we're going to have this ongoing issue - I'm guessing probably next time we run the washing machine.
Note: the pressure switch seems to be working as it should. It shuts the pump off at 50 and turns it back on at 30. Except that it would run constantly when we were having the issue while the PSI was reading 0 (zero) and it wasn't pumping any water.
Oh... and something on the pump itself seems to be leaking while it's pumping - but I can't quite pinpoint where the leak is coming from. Might be the water outlet connection...
I'm wondering if this could be a pressure tank issue? When the pressure gets too low - could that somehow cause the pump to stop pumping water from the ground? Perhaps the bladder is going bad?
I'm so confused, because of how it works then doesn't work. I'm about to go to Menards and purchase a whole new pump/pressure tank combo - but I don't want to waste my time/money if I don't have to. Does this sound like something I should have a professional diagnose?
On 2022-11-11 by InspectApedia (Editor) - pump won't shut off
@Louise Pitts,
I am flying blind here, with so little information, but there are a couple of common explanations for why your pump won't shut off:
- the pump is unable to reach the shut-off pressure called-for by the pressure control switch (the switch may need adjustment)
- the pressure sensor input port on the bottom of the pressure control switch and that should be connected to a fitting on the pump itself or onto a nearby water line could be debris-clogged - more likely if there's silt or crud in your water supply
PLEASE read the article above on this page for a more-thorough answer to your question.
Let me know what you find or what questions remain.
On 2022-11-11 by Louise Pitts
Bought a new valve for my above ground half horse well pump pressure switch new the top piece forget what it's called seem to fix all the leaks underneath the trailer the pressure gauge won't get up and the pump won't shut off but I have good water pressure in the house
don't know what else to look for somebody had mentioned dirt and the PVC pipe in the wild but I don't see nothing on here please someone help me out I haven't had water since January oh pretty please and have a good one or a great one I mean sorry about that whoops
On 2022-11-02 by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - diagnose and fix on-off cycling of the pump
@Ibrahim,
To diagnose and fix on-off cycling of the pump
see
WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES - why does the water pump keep shutting on and off so quickly?
If I've misunderstood your question just let us know.
On 2022-11-02 by Ibrahim
Why presser switch on off on off bulking not close outometic
On 2022-09-14 by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - jet pump finally gave up after being very noisy
@Gary,
I'm not sure the new pump is faulty, as it may simply lack the lift or volume capacity it's being called-on to deliver.
Take a look at the brand and model, find its manual, look at the pump output curve vs lift height.
And check through the list of "pump won't turn off" causes listed above on this page.
On 2022-09-14 by Gary
jet pump finally gave up after being very noisy,but worked fine until that point,it had a 40/60 pressure switch.Purchased new pump almost identical only it is factory set with at 30/50 .my pressure tank that was replace a year ago is pressurized to 38 p..s.i.
ive been told that i can increase the pressure switch setting to 40/ 60 but this pump will not reach the 30/50 setting and the only way to make it stop is to lower the pressure switch setting and it is more like a 35/15 setting no good for my pressure tank.scince everything was fine with the old pump could this pump be faulty.
On 2022-06-17 by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - my tank kept not filling and running empty
@Kevin J,
That sounds like the cause is probably one of the things listed in the article above on this page such as pump wear or a piping leak or a well that is running out of water. It doesn't sound like a pressure tank problem.
On 2022-06-17 by Kevin J
Hello I hope you can help me. My pressure switch is set at 50 with a cut in set at 30 and shutoff if under 20. Recently my tank kept not filling and running empty because it would cut off under 20.
I realized that sometimes it wouldn't engage at 30 but we could manually turn with little handle but then sometimes it would not even engage unless we switch it off and on. Then when it would engage it would fill slowly. So I replaced switch and now it engages every time it hits under 30 but if it's a sprinkler or open hose it can't fill fast enough to get back over 30 let alone to 50.
This morning it ran for an hour without getting under 30 so I thought it was going to be ok because a neighbor said it could be some air in line that had to get out but it went under 20 and shutoff again. It just fills slow and can't keep up.
I never had this problem before and I was wondering if you have an idea what could be the problem now. Thanks for your time.
On 2022-05-07 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - water in the house eventually just stops
@Christie Nichols,
It sounds to me as if the problem is with a very limited flow-rate well or a leak in well piping or one of the other problems diagnosed on the page above. Do look through those diagnostic suggestions.
If you can't find something obvious like the causes we list, it's time to bring out a well and pump expert to inspect the well bore, casing, water level, etc.
Keep us posted on what you find and we may be able to comment further.
On 2022-05-07 by Christie Nichols
Well is 600 feet deep. Water level is 150 feet down. This is the second brand new pump I've bought new and installed. Both worked fine but the pressure switch always malfunctions. Gave up first time and bipassed pressure switch and just worked it using the breaker.
Eventually there was only water when the pump was running and only had less than 13psi. That got worse and worse until there was nothing. Second pump out in a week ago. Same thing. As of now it's hit it miss whether any water will come out when breaker is turned on for pump.
When it does produce water in the house it eventually just stops. Usually while washing dishes, washing clothes, showering or filling tub.
On 2022-04-06 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator
@Dan,
That sounds as if your pump is not able to reach the cut off pressure and that you either have a leak in well piping or a leaky foot valve or there's water running somewhere in your building.
On 2022-04-06 by Dan
New pump, pressure switch bounces between 20 & 30, not go to cut off
Water Pump Won't Stop Running - what to do
Question: my pump cannot reach the cut-out pressure setting - my pump runs all the time
I have replaced the Pressure switch and I can not acheive cutout, pump continues to run. Switch is adjusted very low for cutout. The units cuts in about 26-28 psi. but exceeds the desired 50 -60 psi cutout. - BK 6/6/11
I had to put a new pressure switch on, the pump was running all the time and it burn the points up. The new one is letting the pump run all the time too, when the pump is running the water pressure keeps going up and down, until there is a small amount of water coming out.
I'll turn the pump off and back on then the pressure will come back up and if it runs about a couple of minutes it will do the same thing again. I have no leaks, could this be the water tank?
I need help - Ed 6/18/12
My pump does not exceed 32psi and constantly runs then fails to cut back on even though pressure drops below 20psi. Only way to start it is to manually connect the flow switch to engage the pump. - Jack Nelson 7/7/12
(Nov 26, 2014) Evelio said:
water pump in the tank keep and pressure wont go over 40psi theres anething i can do
(Jan 26, 2015) Anonymous said:
pump does not shut off
Reply: first check the pressure control switch CUT-OUT or CUT OFF pressure setting
BK: Well pump won't stop running: try setting your pressure control to turn on at 20 psi and off at 40 psi. That should be achievable by most well pumps unless the pump itself is damaged. Once you have the pump operating normally in that pressure range you can try increasing the cut out, or both cut-in and cut-out gradually
Don't operate the pump too close to the highest cut-out pressure that it can attain, since there is the risk that when you're not watching the system may, through wear or other factors, leave the pump running until it burns up.
Jack, if the pump does not start at pressures below the cut- in point of 20 psi, the switch may be bad. But the pump running continuously and never delivering cutoff pressure is something else - such as lost well water flow rate or a well piping leak or someone has left a faucet open in the home.
Evelio, check for a well running out of water or a worn or damaged pump impeller or low voltage to the pump motor.
On 2022-03-06 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator (mod) - signs of a leak in well piping
@Charles mizell,
If the pump was having no trouble reaching the shut-off pressure before, I suspect that there's a leak in your well piping connections
On 2022-03-06 by Charles mizell
Changed a foot valve on shallow well , cause foot valve was leaking thru ! Put new one on , now pump won’t build up pass 20 lbs !!??? Need suggestions??
On 2022-02-04 by Tony
Thank you so much I will let you no
On 2022-02-02 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator (mod) - look for a clogged pressure switch or pressure switch tubing
@Anonymous, or Tony
The fact that the switch cuts off if you hit it makes me think that perhaps there is a loose electrical connection OR that the tube or pipe bringing water pressure to the pump control switch pressure sensor may itself be debris clogged.
Our most-complete list of diagnostic suggestions for exactly the problem you describe are above on this page. Please step through them to see if one of those fixes your pump trouble, and do let us know what happens.
On 2022-02-01 by Tony
I have replaced my holding tank and my pump and the points and put a new check valve on but my pump continues to run constantly unless I taken hit the points with a screwdriver and then it sucks the water up really fast until it cuts off when it is running it holds pressure around 40 but will not shut off
On 2022-01-11 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator (mod) - pump can't reach cut-off pressure
@Brian,
Are you sure the check valve is facing the right direction? If so then I'd go ahead and step through the diagnostic causes of a pump that won 't stop running - given above on this page. Keep me posted.
On 2022-01-08 by Brian
SWJP. With new 30-50 pressure switch. Installed check valve before pump. Now pump won't build pressure beyond 44 lbs won't shut off. It reached 50 before I installed check valve
On 2021-10-29 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod) - pump runs but doesn't get water, prime is not lost
@Albert Perry,
My first worry is that your "good used pump" may not be so good. The pump might run fine, and may seem to be properly primed, but if its impeller is damaged or clogged it won't move water.
As you replaced the foot valve you must have pulled the entire pair of 2-line jet pump pipes from the well, right?
Were there any additional check valves that might be jammed shut?
Are we sure that your new foot valve is not stuck?
Is the well piping bottom venturi intact or might it have been blocked by sediment or debris?
Perhaps test the pump disconnected from the well to be sure it's moving water.
On 2021-10-29 by Albert Perry
The pump froze and busted installed a good used pump replaced foot valve the water will stay on top of lines that go into well and when you prime pump the water stays full where it’s primed but it does not pump any water it sounds like it’s pumping but it’s not
I’m running above ground jet pump with 2 lines going to well the well is 115 foot deep have not had any problem for about 8 years thanks for your advice
On 2021-10-25 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod) - why won't our new well pump shut off?
@Barbara Jean CHASE,
Most likely the cause will be one of those listed in the article above. Please take a look and let us know how that works for you.
On 2021-10-25 by Barbara Jean CHASE
bought a bran new water pump and it will pump up 55pounds but won't shut off why
On 2021-08-21 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod) - what to check when the deep well pump won't stop running
@TERESA,
The diagnostic steps or things to check for the case you describe are given above on this page, so I hope you'll look through all of those.
A very common cause of what you describe is a debris-clogged pressure control switch.
On 2021-08-21 1 by TERESA
Our deep well water pump wont shut off. we replaced the pressure switch. it runs and has lots of pressure but the pump will not shut off until we shut off the breaker.
When we turn the breaker back on the pump is fine until we run water for about 5 mins, after that the pump comes on but wont shut off after about 15 mins we turn the breaker off.
Turn it back on. then everything is fine until the pressure goes down, then the cycles starts again.
On 2021-07-02 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod) - consider a pump protection switch
@Ahmed Badawy,
Yes, Continue reading at WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Pump_Protection_Switches.php
as a way to protect the pump from damage; the switch can turn off the pump as needed. Some of these will wait, then turn the pump on again; others will wait for you to re-set the switch.
Usually what we do is install a rooftop water tank, pump water up to the tank and from there deliver it down into the building.
On 2021-07-02 by Ahmed Badawy
Sir,
I've my water pump for 6th floors building , since my main water pipe pressure usually can not deliver water there.
In summer most of the time the water in such main pipe becomes very less and when i turned on the pump to get water , it can not achieve the cut-off pressure and the pressure switch will not respond to stop the pump.
is there any automatic solution which I can use in stead of switch of electrical to my water pump , i'm afraid of forgetting to do so and my pump keep running , high temp then total loss
On 2021-05-24 by (mod) - very large water tank is a warning about the well
@Sajeev,
When I read that someone has a 600g water tank I figure the flow rate of their well is very very poor and they're trying to accumulate water into the larger storage tank to get a functional building water supply (or yours is a commercial or industrial installation?) - so I already suspect an inadequate well.
It's possible that your pump is trying to pump water but the well is virtually dry. A dry well combined with a pump protection switch will shut down the pump.
Watch the water pressure gauge: is it below the pressure control switch CUT-OUT pressure (typically 40 or 50 psi)?
On 2021-05-24 by Sajeev
Sir,
Had a 600 gallon tank and a smart head pentax 3/4 HP pump installed two weeks ago.
For the past five days two problems: pump starts every 7 - 8 minutes and then shuts off in 10 seconds. This is happening even when no water is being used in the house.
Second problem is that water in the tap comes out in spurts and then slowly. No leaks detected in the house. Please advise. Thank you very much.
On 2021-05-22 - by (mod) - signs that water is not entering the water pressure tank
@Teri,If water into the house is turned off,
and the water tank is not waterlogged,
and it's air precharge is 2 PSI below the pressure control cut in pressure,
I suspect water isn't entering the tank.
Could be a bladder stuck to itself.
Sometimes a brief deliberately over-pressure will un-stick the bladder, but
Watch out: don't get even close to the tanks maximum rated pressure or it could burst, injuring or even killing anyone nearby.
On 2021-05-21 by Teri
6 year old shallow well 3/4 hp jet pump. A week ago it just started running non stop. Powered it off replaced the pressure switch and it still just kept running.
So pull the well pipe and replace the foot valve its at this point I realize it's not shutting off because not getting to the cut off pressure 20/40 switch. Now I check the pressure tank and all is good staying at 18psi. So must be the pump right.
Go pick up a new pump hook everything up and new pump is short cycling like every 10 seconds. So unhook take that one back, pick up a zoeller, hook that up and it runs for about 10 seconds and trips. What is going on please help
On 2021-04-28 - by (mod) - step through our pump diagnostic table above on this page, check the pump air pre-charge pressure
@RIZWAN,Let's start by asking you to review the "pump won't stop running" diagnostic steps given above on this page, since among your symptoms you mention that your water pump does not turn off "automatically".
(I cannot know, from so little information in your note, but I suspect that your water pressure tank's starting air pre-charge pressure is not being set correctly)
On 2021-04-28 by RIZWAN - pump works when I empty the water tank
i have to empty my 30 liter pressure tank and then refill it twice a week. if i do not do so pump does not switch off automatically. a good amount of water is being produced by the water pump and switch is working fine . i could not locate any leakage at the tank.
Pump does not starts automatically, it starts when needed but does not switch off automatically. Then if i empty pressure tank and refill it it starts working fine for next 3-4 days. how to locate issue?
On 2021-04-10 - by (mod) - debris clogged pressure switch can cause pump operating trouble
@Randy from Saskatchewan,Thank you for the nice note, Randy. We've worked hard on this site for decades so I am really grateful when a reader finds our information both useful and trust-worthy. It's not that I might not make a mistake but at least it won't be for the purpose of making a buck.
Some notes:
The pressure tank won't itself cause the pump to fail to shut off (unless it's got an incredible leak);
There are more-detailed explanations of things to check in the article above but I'll add that when you've stopped running water and the pump takes forever to shut-off but finally does, I suspect
- a pressure switch that is not responding quickly to pressure change because it's debris-clogged (you're checking that)
- a clogged foot valve or inlet (you checked this and rule it out)
- a pump that's got a worn or debris-clogged impeller
- a constriction in well piping
- a leak in well piping
- an un-discovered leak or water use in the building (running toilets, leak in crawl space, etc)
Do keep us posted - that may help other readers.
On 2021-04-10 by Randy from Saskatchewan
I searched about a reason for why my pump might be running for a long time after water use and one of the first things I see is "InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website." I love it.
Good for you. I had already checked the air pressure in my pressure tank bladder and know that our sandpoint isn't clogged and has lots of water but I never even considered a faulty or clogged pressure switch.
Tomorrow I'm going to take a look at that. I'll report back on my results for anyone that might be interested.
On 2021-03-14 - by (mod) - check for a debris-clogged pressure control or gauge
@tuur duncker,Let's start by checking for a debris-clogged pressure control and/or pressure gauge; that can cause a delay in reading the true pressure reading in the system.
On 2021-03-13 by tuur duncker
cant find an answer anywhereso you my last resort..my pressure goes up to6 or 7 bar without pump kicking in..
it starts at a normal 3.5 bar and then slowly creeps up to 6bar without pump kicking in..turn water on and it drops again and pump kicks in to keep pressure..
its a straight forward set up..water from mains flows in watertank .pipe from watertank to pump with non return valve in between ..after pump straight in to house.
any ideas?
Question: pump won't stop running and got very hot - my well pump won't turn off
Pump has worked fine until today for some reason it kept running after the 'timer' stopped. I didn't notice for a while and by the time I got to the pump, it was really hot. I killed the power and water/steam shot out of a PVC pipe on the bottom. If I plug it in, it won't stop running.
I turned the timer on and tried to send water to a sprinkler zone to no avail. Please help! - pumpwontstop 6/17/11
I have been having a problem with my well for a couple years now with it staying running. I hired a well guy and he told me it was a 30 year old system and it needed to be replaced, so i started to replace things and it has fixed some problems, but has cause others.
We replaced the air tank, pressure control switch, the run capacitor, and the start cylinder.
When we turn it on after about 4 hours it will run for 5 to 10 min, but if we let it sit off for 8 hours or even 10 hours it will run for 15 to 20 min. I have no clue what is going on and seeing if someone could help.
Also as I was down at the well, and it was turned on their was some sloshing in the system as it starts and turns off. If you need any more details just ask. - Mike 7/25/12
Reply:
If your well pump won't stop running and it is delivering water then I suspect that the pump is unable to reach the cut-off pressure.
That can happen for a variety of reasons like loss of water in the well, a well piping leak, water running somewhere that you didn't realize, a pressure switch set too high, or a damaged pressure sensor component of the pressure control switch.
see WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING for a thorough diagnostic procedure
Ed:
If the pump runs all the time even when you turn OFF water from the pressure tank into the building, then since you've excluded the control itself:
- the pressure sensing port on the pressure switch may not be seeing actual water pressure if the small diameter tube or pipe feeding pressure to the switch is clogged
- you may have a leak in well piping in the well or in the ground between house and well.
- you may have a damaged pump impeller that is not developing enough pressure to reach switch cutoff
- or something else
Hi Mike. It sounds as if perhaps you are losing well prime back down into the well - could be a bad foot valve - or a leak in the well piping.
Is the pump in the well or above ground? If above ground, is it a one line or two line jet pump?
Followup from Mike:
the pump is in the well about 600 ft down how do i find a leak that far down or where is the foot valve in the pump? thank you for answering me fast
Reply:
Mike, first establish that there is a leak, and in what segment of the whole system it exists - say in the building vs between the water pressure tank and the bottom of the well.
If it appears that the leak is in the well piping, that's in the well itself (as opposed to between well and building) you're in luck because you can pull the whole well piping and pump (use a professional to do this) to find and repair the leak as well as replace the foot valve.
If the leak is between house and well then unfortunately excavation is in order.
If the leak in the well pipe is in the well and is between the water surface and well top, you'll hear or even see water squirting out of the leak when the pump is running; if it's under-water you may never see it without pulling the line.
All of this means that you start by determining that the leak is between house and well.
Search InspectApedia for
"find leak in well piping" to find our diagnostic article
Question: my pump would not stop running - the tech says I need a new drilled well
My pump began running non stop and when the well person came out they said they were able to set psi to 38 and the pump would shut off correctly however most likely the jet is plugged or a hole in casing for it to change suddenly and It will eventually just quit.
Does this sound correct. It is now functioning fine at 38 psi but I am concerned since winter is coming and I shoul get a well drilled now. I am not planning in investing in repair if it needs repair because it's an old 2" - Amanda 8/26/12
Reply:
Amanda I don't understand the question you are asking. A hole in a well casing may admit dirt and contaminants and might speed up clogging of the well screen on a foot valve or pump pickup; But some more accurate diagnosis is needed before drilling a new well.
On 2021-03-01 - by (mod) - pump wont reach cut-off pressure
@Richard Boyce,
The most complete list of possible causes is of course in the article above but from your description if you are confident that there are no leaks in the water piping and if you're confident that you're well has not run out of water then you could have a bad pump impeller or low voltage to the pump
On 2021-03-01 by Richard Boyce
Above ground jet pump. Put new parts down hole. Pressure tank is holding 28psi. Water is circulating but won't pressure up. I have clear hoses so that I could know for sure if pump was circulating water. Shut it off and it hold the water doesn't drain out.
there is no air in line
On 2021-01-29 - by (mod) - pump motor noise or air in water pipes?
Omos
Noise from the motor itself? Probably a failing motor or bearing;
Though if there is air in the piping that too will make the pump noisier.
So if you're getting a water-air mix at faucets it could be low water in the well or air in piping; else it's probably a failing bearing.
On 2021-01-29 by Omos
My water pressure pump makes big noise when I open the tapes what is the problem
On 2021-01-29 by Anonymous
What is the problem when pressere pump makes big noise when i open the tap
...
Continue reading at WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
Or see WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING FAQs first set of questions & answers about what to do if the pump won't turn off
Or see these
Recommended Articles
- WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
- WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE - diagnostic Table 1: Pump Won't Run, Wont' Stop Running, or Cycles Rapidly
- WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM - is your pump capable of reaching cutoff pressure and water lift requirements?
- WATER PUMP DIAGNOSTIC TABLE a concise guide to diagnosing and fixing water pumps
- WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS - set the pump cut-in/cut-out pressure correctly
- WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH to shut off a pump to prevent burn-up
- WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE - home
- WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES - why does the water pump keep shutting on and off so quickly?
- WATER PUMP WON'T START for ten things to check
- WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING - what to check
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WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.
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INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS
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Citations & References
In addition to any citations in the article above, a full list is available on request.
- Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual, National Pump Co., LLC., includes helpful well pump troubleshooting tips as well as basic jet pump installation details. Web search 07/15/2010, original source: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com/Documents/OIM/Betta%20Flo%20IOM%20Jet%20Pump.pdf
- In addition to citations & references found in this article, see the research citations given at the end of the related articles found at our suggested
CONTINUE READING or RECOMMENDED ARTICLES.
- Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. Tel: (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 Email: info@carsondunlop.com. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.
Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The HOME REFERENCE BOOK - the Encyclopedia of Homes and to use illustrations from The ILLUSTRATED HOME .
Carson Dunlop Associates provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material. In gratitude we provide links to tsome Carson Dunlop Associates products and services.
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