Building Inspection, Diagnosis & Repair Info

One Line Jet Pump (C) Daniel Friedman Diagnose Weak or No Water Pressure Water

This WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE series provides a table giving step by step checklist for diagnosing water pressure, water pump, and water well problems. We give diagnostic and repair procedures for both municipal water supply problems and well water supply problems.

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Weak or No Water Delivered from a Water Pump & Well System

Watch out: If your pump is running but you are getting NO water at all, turn the water pump off immediately to avoid damaging it - as can happen if the pump runs "dry".

Then, don't give up. Step through the symptoms and conditions in the table below and if that doesn't diagnose and fix your water problem post a question at the end of this page. DF

Table 3: Well Pump Runs but Does Not Deliver Any Water or Does Not Deliver Enough Water
Closed or partly closed water supply valve

Be sure that you haven't forgotten and left a valve closed between the pump and water tank.

This can happen if someone closes a valve to perform other work on the plumbing system.

Be sure at least one clear water piping pathway is open between the water pump outlet side and the water pressure tank inlet side.

Low Well Water Level or Loss of water in the well

If the well water level has fallen too low or the well recovery rate is too poor, or if the well pump is oversized for the well flow rate, the pump may run continuously.

Turn off the well pump and allow the well to recover - one to several hours may be needed.

Re-start the well pump. Note how much water can be drawn before the water supply or flow rate drops or stops.

Other symptoms of this problem include air discharge at plumbing fixtures.

Install a properly-sized well pump matched to the well flow rate.

Install a tailpiece and/or low water cutoff device to protect the pump from damage.

Switch from a shallow-well (one line jet pump) to a deep well equipment system (2-line jet pump or in-well submersible pump).

Investigate and fix the cause of a poor flow rate or low-yield well.

See

Low Line Voltage - slow pump operation

 Use a VOM to check the line voltage at the pressure switch or pump motor wiring terminals

If the voltage is under the recommended voltage (see pump label or installation manual) check that the wiring is of proper gauge for the amperage and length of run.

Confirm that voltage at the electrical panel is normal

Partial loss of pump prime

Air in the pump or piping system may reduce water flow. See AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES

If no water is being delivered and the pump is running and it's an above ground pump, turn off power and inspect the pump cavity for the presence of water by removing the priming plug.

If the pump is a submersible unit in the well, loss of prime is not normally an issue.

A bad check valve or failed foot valve can lead to loss of well prime.

Re-prime the pump - see

WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE

If the problem is recurrent see

Water piping problem: undersized or clogged water pipes

Water pressure is weak in all building areas or only in some building areas, but at some or all fixtures in that area.

If water supply piping is too small in diameter, or if there are many, perhaps unnecessary elbows and fittings, especially if there are long piping runs in the building, water flow will be impeded.

If water pressure is consistently poor regardless of pump settings, or if when you turn on water the pressure is strong for a moment or two, then falls off quickly you may have clogged piping or under-sized piping.

Install larger diameter water supply piping in part or all of the supply system. Installing larger piping in even part of the system will help.

Check for & clean or repair clogged water filter, blocked or clogged water treatment equipment.

See
Blocked water piping, clogged water filter or other water treatment equipment

A blocked or clogged water filter or pipe or other water treatment equipment close to the water pressure tank can cause very rapid on-off cycling of the water pump,

particularly if the filter, valve, or equipment is located between the water pump and the water pressure tank.

Check the order of installation of equipment.

Be sure at least one clear water piping pathway is open between the water pump outlet side and the water pressure tank inlet side.

Replace a dirty, clogged, or suspect water filter cartridge.

Watch out: turn off the pump right away to avoid damage.
Plumbing Fixture Problem: poor flow at individual fixtures

If water pressure is good at some fixtures and bad at others, remove the faucet strainer or shower head at the bad-flow fixture. If water pressure is good without the strainer, the strainer was clogged.

Check that the control valves for the fixture are fully open.

Check for a clogged pipe, elbow or valve serving the poor-flowing fixture.

Clean or replace clogged fixture strainers.

Open or replace stuck, partly shut fixture water supply control valves.
Poor hot water flow or quantity

Hot water flow weaker than cold water flow		 If cold water pressure is more than hot water pressure and flow then the hot water piping, tankless coil, or water heater may be clogged with minerals.

Clean blocked piping or coil with acid (dangerous and not permanent) or replace clogged piping and equipment.

Check the hardness level of the water supply and if necessary install a water softener.
Well piping problem: Air lock in well piping suction line If the horizontal well piping between well and building does not slope continually upwards or if it has a high spot, an air lock can form in the piping.

Piping may have to be re-run with proper and uniform slope.
Also
Piping or fitting leak on the suction side or well side of the system

A leak in the well supply piping anywhere between the water pick-up point in the well bottom and the entry to the water pressure tank can cause loss of water pressure and water pump short cycling.

(It can also cause air entry into the piping system).

For shallow wells install a pressure gauge on the suction side of the system. If your well is a deep well (2-line jet pump) install a pressure gauge on the pump if an attachment point is available.

Let the pump run until it reaches its cut-off pressure. Note the pressure on the gauge.

Turn off power to the pump. Turn off water leaving the pressure tank and feeding the building - the valve on the "discharge" side of the system.

Alternatively, after closing the water valve on the output or discharge side of the system (stop feeding water to the building), use a bicycle pump to pump air into the system at the air inlet valve (if your system has one).

Pump to 30 psi.

Watch for a pressure drop.

If the system won't hold pressure then there is ale a leak on the "suction side" of the water system.

Leaks may be a bad check valve, foot valve, or piping connection anywhere between the pressure tank and well bottom.

First check and tighten all above-ground well piping connections to be sure nothing is leaking.

Remember to check or replace any above-ground check valves that may be leaking.

Repeat the test.

If the system still won't hold pressure you will need to pull the well piping and check for a defective or leaky piping connection, check valve, or foot valve.

See
Bad water pump control switch tubing, clogged or leaky

Clogged or leaky tubing connecting a water pump pressure control switch to the water system results in failure to properly sense and respond to water pressure.

Debris clogging can also occur in the bottom of the pressure control switch where it mounts or connects to the tubing.

Check and clear tubing blockage (blow air through tubing). Or install new tubing.

Be sure tubing is proper diameter and type to seal properly with other fittings.

Tighten tubing fittings to be sure there are no water or air leaks.

Soap solution may help find air leaks in tubing fittings.

Clear or replace clogged pressure control switch if the bottom sensor opening is clogged and cannot be cleared.
Pressure regulating wire or valve stuck or incorrectly set (deep wells only) Check the valve setting, inspect the valve for defects Reset, clean, or replace the pressure regulating valve on the deep well pump or piping
Well pump parts worn or defective

Worn or broken pump impeller parts or bearings, or debris clogging inside the impeller assembly will reduce pump output even though the motor appears to run normally.

Complete clogging or badly damaged impeller parts or bearings will stop water output completely.

Disassemble the well water pump impeller assembly, inspect for damage, clean or replace suspect or damaged parts.

If necessary, for example if parts are badly rusted and cannot be disassembled and cleaned, replace the entire pump.

Wrong well pump ejector assembly installed in the well

Plugged ejector assembly, tailpiece

If the wrong ejector has been installed in the well, not properly matched to the pump, water flow may be inadequate.

If the ejector is clogged, damaged, or leaky, water flow to the building will be reduced.

To diagnose and correct this problem it is necessary to pull the well piping and inspect the ejector, tailpiece, foot valve or well screen for clogging

Clean or replace the clogged ejector
Clogged foot valve or well screen in the well If a well screen or foot valve screen has become clogged with debris water flow to the building will be reduced.

Clean or replace the clogged foot valve screen, or well screen.

See

Notes to the table above

Some of the well pump troubleshooting suggestions in this list can be found at the Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual from the National Pump Co.

...


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Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

How do I know if my water pump is on or off, running or not?

Simple water pressure gauge that mounts at any hose spigot or faucet - cited & explained at InspectApedia.comHow do I check to see if the pump stops. Where do KI check the pressure? On 2021-05-24 by (ree)

Diagnostic Suggestions by (mod)

@ree

For an above-ground pump:

If your water pump is an above-ground jet pump you can hear the motor running when the pump is on.

Basically, if the water pressure gauge shows that water pressure is at or below the pumps switch CUT-ON or CUT-IN pressure then we would expect the pump to turn on.

If you run water at one or more fixtures you should see the pressure gauge needle fall until the pump comes on, then either the pressure needle will hover (the pump can't get ahead of the rate at which you're running water) or the pressure needle will rise (the pump is sending up water faster than you're using it).

In this second case, the pump will continue to send water until it reaches the CUT-OFF or CUT-OUT pressure set at the pressure switch and then will turn off.

Watch out: if the water / well pump runs but no water is being delivered, turn off the pump to avoid damaging it.

For a submersible pump:

If your water pump is a submersible pump that is in the well you cannot of course hear the pump motor itself when it is running.

However you may hear water running into or entering the water pressure tank in your building,

and you should see the water pressure rising on the water pressure gauge that will be mounted on piping near the pressure tank or perhaps even on the pressure tank itself.

[Watch out: sometimes the water pressure gauge (and pressure control switch) stop responding properly to water pressure changes due to sediment or debris clogging of the gauge or switch. So you might need to buy a water pressure test gauge like the one I show here. ]

Connect this gauge to any faucet such as at your washing machine or at an outdoor hose bib to get an independent reading of water pressure.

So as we described for the above-ground pump case above, if you are running water in the building and water pressure falls below the CUT-IN pressure and nothing happens - that is, the pressure continues to drop down to zero AND you also see that water stops running at the faucet or fixture where you turned it on, THEN your pump is NOT RUNNING.

If this is the case then see the diagnostic steps at NO WATER PRESSURE or for a succinct diagnostic table, see WATER PRESSURE TABLE 1: PUMP WON'T RUN, WON'T STOP, or CYCLES

 

Afte our well/pump equipment froze, our pump can't reach the CUT-OFF pressure

Irrigation well pressure problem diagnosis (C) InspectApedia.com GeneIrrigation pump will not attain 60psi to automatically turn off while there is demand for water. Otherwise when there is little/no demand for water it turns on at 40psi and off at 60psi as it should.

After irrigation pump turns on automatically at 40psi, the pump will not attain shut off pressure, 60psi, while there is water demand (irrigation on). Pump continues running at 45-50psi. After 5 minutes I turn off water demand and pressure returns to 60 and shuts off.

Lawn irrigation, 140 ft deep well, Central Fl. Pump would not come on. Replaced gauge, and pressure switch set at 40-60. Pump runs and turns on / off at 40/60.

When there is demand for water (a watering zone is on) the drop in pressure to 40 seems faster than usual but the pump comes on at 40psi.

Pressure builds to 45-50 but will not increase to 60 and shut off until the demand is turned off. When demand, watering zone, is turned off then pressure returns to 60 and pump shuts off.

Bladder pressure ok at 38. No water comes out air valve. Tank is not top heavy when drained.
What next?
Thank YOU so much

Wait: I just found I hadn't checked table 3. I will update when I complete TABLE 3.

OK here's what I've found:

Let system recover then turned on water demand with gauge approximately 60psi,

The pressure went to 40psi in less than 1 minute and pump started.

Pressure went to 50psi in 2 minutes but never went above 50psi in 7 minutes with water demand continuing.

Ran that several times today with several hours break with same results.

I hear what sounds like marbles (is that air).

When the pump is not running but irrigation is running I hear marbles sound, the loudest at a 90 degree turn in the PVC leading to the irrigation system. I’ve posted a picture with location.

When the pump is also running I hear the same sound, but not as pronounced, at the steel pipe where the pressure switch is located.

When the pump shuts off the sound stops at location of pressure switch but continues at PVC location. There are no water leaks at those points. I see no air release at irrigation heads which I usually see when I open a line or replace heads.

I reduced demand by half and pump would cycle as it should, I believe. About 2 min on 2 min off. There is always the possibility to reduce sprinkler head size/gpm and run longer but that is only a temporary answer.

The flow rate, I just checked, while may not be useful, is similar to what it was when I checked it a few years ago. 40gpm and no changes in my irrigation zones for years.
In our area of Fl we had a very unusual freeze off and on for more than several days. Now lots of unusual watering happening.

Any suggestions.
Thank YOU!! On 2021-03-20 by Gene

by (mod) - look for a frozen, leaky or damaged pipe or damaged injector in the well

@Gene,

I would check for a leak in well piping, maybe at a fitting that froze. Your photo shows that your system has no protection against freezing and that pipes are above ground outdoors.

The break could be in the well itself - that's where I'd look next (pull the well pipe) because I suspect that if the leak were in the water delivery piping (buried to the left of your water tank) you'd either see a wet spot in the yard or you could at least turn OFF that orange valve (#1) that sends water to the irrigation system and OPEN the lower orange valve (#2) or the hose connection (#3) and you'd see water coming out of the line from the pump and tank. - Daniel

 

My pump runs but pressure is weak: do I need a new switch?

My country home has an 80 ft. well. In July we began having periodic low water pressure.

The well was new in '04. When this would happen, the gauge pressure would stay low and constant, but the pump was running. I could fix it by turning off the breaker and then back on.

Then the pump would come on and the gauge would build to 65 psi and the pump would shut off. I had it fixed in July (solenoid switch replaced, $238), but now I'm having the same problem.

Could it be the pump? I saw an article on the internet that said pumps have several stages, and when one goes out it might give these symptoms.

Or do I need another solenoid switch? I know the pressure gauge is fine and I have no leaks. When the pump shuts off the pressure holds until a faucet is opened. On 2016-09-07 by Dave Gudim

Answer by (mod) - here's the diagnostic procedure

Dave

Not all home water pumps are multi-stage. I usually see such pumps installed as booster pumps or where high water pressure is needed.

A conventional home well pump is normally capable of over 65 psi, though I don't recommend such high settings as when you start getting close to 70 psi you're asking for plumbing leaks, while still higher pressures are downright dangerous, risking blowing up a water tank or pipe and injuring anyone nearby.

Low water in the well (a poor well flow rate), leaks in well piping, low voltage, damaged pump impeller and similar problems could be the fault.

I would NOT keep changing the switch or any other parts before getting a more accurate diagnosis of the root problem.

See WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING for step by step diagnostic suggestions.

 

What does the control valve do on my Flint & Walling Pump CPJ10?

I have a Flint and Walling well pump model CPJ10. What does the control valve mounted to the pump body actually do? Could this part cause my pump not to prime? If you look at the parts list it would be item 13. On 2016-05-05 by Brian

Answer by (mod) -

Brian, the Flint and Walling well pump model CPJ10 is a convertible jet pump that can be changed from 1-line to 2-line jet pump operation. But the installation instructions I saw didn't discuss external valves. Perhaps if you use our page top or bottom CONTACT link to send me some sharp photos I can help figure out what's happening.

Here is what the company says, -note that there is a HELP telephone number you might try.

Flint and Walling pump company makes convertible jet pumps that are used to pump water from a shallow well with a shallow well ejector, or from a deep well with a deep well 2 pipe ejector down in the well. Shallow well jet pumps are suction pumps that suck water from the water source down to approximately 25' deep, however in most parts of the country, the deepest you can suck water from is 20' to 21' deep.

After 20' depth, your jet pump should have a deep well ejector package installed onto it, using 2 pipes going from the pump down to the ejector package in the well.

A deep well regulator is used to divert some water back down the well through the smaller 1" pipe, to lift water through the larger 1-1/4" pipe. The ejector package has a nozzle and a venturi installed. that is what jets the water to lift from deeper depths. Dean Bennett Supply helps do it yourselfers select the proper pump and equipment to pump water from a well for house or farm use.

Call us at 800-621-4291 for help with selecting a new Flint and Walling jet pump for your well. We also have deep well packers that will lift water from a 2 inch well.

Water pump runs but when I open a faucet pressure gauge suddenly drops to zero

The symptoms I have do not quite match anything I've been able to find here.
Configuration:
Shallow well jet pump
30/50 pressure switch with a low pressure (10 #) safety shutoff
36 gallon tank charged to 28 #

Symptoms:
Pump starts normally (after manually overriding low pressure shutoff until it can be reset to automatic)
On reaching cutoff pressure, pump switches off as expected
Open faucet and pressure begins to drop - also as expected
Pressure gauge (on outlet side of pump) holds briefly at about 30# then immediately drops to zero.

Speculation:
Pressure drops too quickly for the pressure switch to be able to respond - by the time it "hears" that pressure has reached cut on pressure, the pressure has dropped below the low pressure threshold.

Question:
Could this be caused by sensing water pressure at the wrong location? Currently, the pressure switch measures pressure on the discharge side of the pump, but upstream of the check valve. On 2015-07-23 by Michael Johnson

Diagnostic suggestion by (mod) -

Michael it sounds to me as if the pressure gauge sensor port may be debris clogged. Try making an independent measurement of water pressure by attaching a new gauge to a hose bibb or laundry hookup.

Debris clogging can also foul up the response of a pressure control switch to actual changes in water presssure. - Daniel Friedman

by Michael J

Thanks Dan. I am fairly confident in the accuracy of the pressure measurements. It is a new gauge on a new tank cross, but I had not considered the possibility of debris clogging.
I'll check tonight when I get home.

...

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Citations & Reviewers

In addition to any citations in the article above, a full list is available on request.

  • Mark Cramer Inspection Services Mark Cramer, Tampa Florida, Mr. Cramer is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors and is a Florida home inspector and home inspection educator. Mr. Cramer serves on the ASHI Home Inspection Standards. Contact Mark Cramer at: 727-595-4211 mark@BestTampaInspector.com
  • John Cranor [Website: /www.house-whisperer.com ] is an ASHI member and a home inspector (The House Whisperer) is located in Glen Allen, VA 23060. He is also a contributor to InspectApedia.com in several technical areas such as plumbing and appliances (dryer vents). Contact Mr. Cranor at 804-873-8534 or by Email: johncranor@verizon.net
  • Thanks to Jeneral Sewer Service - George - 845-297-2285, a New York Hudson Valley drain and sewer cleaning and de-clogging expert for technical details and consulting on drain clog diagnosis and repair, including proper use of the Kinetic Water Ram for drain clearing - 3/14/2009
  • Thanks to our reader, Carole Cimitile, 2/17/2009, for reminding us that small problems like faucet o-rings, clogged faucet strainers and similar local plumbing fixture defects can have a big impact on hot water flow, cold water flow, or both hot and cold water flow and pressure problems.
  • Thanks to reader EK Woodard, Boise State University, Boise ID, for assistance in diagnosing poor water pressure following an electrical power loss. 3/14/2010
  • Betta-Flo JET PUMP INSTALLATION MANUAL [PDF], National Pump Co., LLC., includes helpful well pump troubleshooting tips as well as basic jet pump installation details. Web search 07/24/2010, original source: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com/Documents/OIM/Betta%20Flo%20IOM%20Jet%20Pump.pdf
  • Access Water Energy, PO Box 2061, Moorabbin, VIC 3189, Australia, Tel: 1300 797 758, email: sales@accesswater.com.au Website: http://www.accesswater.com.au/

    Moorabbin Office: Kingston Trade Centre, 100 Cochranes Rd, Moorabbin, VIC 3189

    Australian supplier of: Greywater systems, Solar power to grid packages, Edwards solar systems, Vulcan compact solar systems, water & solar system pumps & controls, and a wide rage of above ground & under ground water storage tanks: concrete, steel, plastic, modular, and bladder storage tanks.
  • Grove Electric, Typical Shallow Well One Line Jet Pump Installation [PDF], Grove Electric, G&G Electric & Plumbing, 1900 NE 78th St., Suite 101, Vancouver WA 98665 www.grovelectric.com - web search -7/15/2010 original source: http://www.groverelectric.com/howto/38_Typical%20Jet%20Pump%20Installation.pdf
  • Grove Electric, Typical Deep Well Two Line Jet Pump Installation [PDF], Grove Electric, G&G Electric & Plumbing, 1900 NE 78th St., Suite 101, Vancouver WA 98665 www.grovelectric.com - web search -7/15/2010 original source: http://www.groverelectric.com/howto/38_Typical%20Jet%20Pump%20Installation.pdf
  • Crystal Clear Supply provides portable ceramic water filter purifiers and portable reverse osmosis water treatment equipment - see http://www.crystalclearsupply.com/category_s/7.htm
  • When Technology Fails, Matthew Stein, Chelsea Green Publisher, 2008,493 pages. ISBN-10: 1933392452 ISBN-13: 978-1933392455, "... how to find and sterilize water in the face of utility failure, as well as practical information for dealing with water-quality issues even when the public tap water is still flowing". Mr. Stein's website is www.whentechfails.com/
  • In addition to citations & references found in this article, see the research citations given at the end of the related articles found at our suggested

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