Septic FiltersSeptic filters or graywater filters:
Septic filters are such a significant improvement in septic system operation and longevity that some jurisdictions (such as Arizona) require them on new septic installations.
This document explains the design and use of various types of septic effluent filter systems and graywater filter systems to protect the septic drainfield or absorption system from clogging.
We explain what types of septic or graywater filters are used, where and how they are installed, and how they are cleaned or maintained.
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While there are several versions of septic and other types of wastewater filters, the most basic septic effluent filter is a simple tee and filter installed at the septic tank outlet. The installation can be handled by a septic contractor or a skilled homeowner, and can cost less than $100. U.S.
Our illustration shows a filter in use in a septic graywater basin.
These simple septic filters, such as greywater filters, washing machine filters, and filters at the effluent outlet of a conventional septic tank are all designed to protect the septic effluent absorption field or leach field.
Septic filters are placed either in the septic tank at the outlet tee or in a separate chamber outside of and close to the septic tank.
Graywater filters may be placed at the inlet to a drywell or graywater disposal system. Washing machine filters are often installed at the clothes washer outlet hose. We include a list of product sources for these various types of septic filters.
In contrast with septic effluent and graywater filters, media filter septic systems use a conventional septic tank followed by any of several methods to further filter and treat septic effluent before it is discharged to the soil, soil surface, or waterway.
Media filter systems are discussed at SEPTIC MEDIA FILTERS as Components of Alternative Septic Systems for Difficult Sites.
To add protection for the septic absorption system, add a septic effluent or gray water filter at the septic tank outlet tee. The sketch at page top (US EPA) shows a large basket filter installed at a septic tank outlet.
The photo shows a simple filter which is installed inside the outlet tee of a septic tank.
If there is no room in the tank to install such a filter, a small chamber and filter can be installed outside of the septic tank but upstream from the drainfield - just like our septic graywater basin and filter shown in the previous sketch..
Although most grease or large solids entering the septic tank are intended to be retained there where they are reduced to floating scum at the top of the tank or settled sludge at the tank bottom.
However septic tank effluent also contains suspended solids, smaller particles of debris which, as they pass out to the soil absorption system, or drainfield, speed the clogging of the absorption system and thus shorten its life.
By trapping more of the suspended solids in septic effluent we pass clarified septic effluent to the absorption system, extending its life. Don't worry about starving the biomat by filtering the septic effluent. There are still plenty of nutrients in the effluent passing into the absorption system.
A number of companies sell these devices which will add life to your drainfield by reducing the level of suspended solids flowing out of the tank. If you buy a septic tank outlet filter you'll see that the filter product will typically be of about the dimensions of the outlet tee I cited above, or perhaps an inch or two deeper.
See the links below for more information about septic filters and septic media filter systems. [Photo courtesy of thenaturalhome.com - see Product Source List below]
I just installed a Tuf-Tite EF4 in the outlet of my 30-year-old concrete septic tank, whose outlet elbow had broken off.
Very simple job (see comments on the tank tees page), and only took a couple of hours. Total investment maybe $30 - filter was $15, two-foot piece of three inch PVC $4, adapter $5, new can of PVC cement $6. - Brahms 9/29/11
Reply:
Thank you Brahms for the feed-back. We're thrilled that our article on tank tees was useful and glad to read that your repair went well.
Illustration: a conventional two-chamber septic tankwith an effluent filter installed in the outlet tee. - Types of Septic Systems, U.S. EPA, retrieved 2019/04/22 original source: https://www.epa.gov/septic/types-septic-systems
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
I just had my 1000 gallon septic, 4 years old, pumped. All went well. The service man said there was a flap at the base of the inlet but no flap at the base of outlet.
He also said he could put a removeable filter on the view port which can be cleaned or replaced. All for $300.00. Also said NJ requires now on new installs. Is this sound feasible? (Apr 8, 2015) Ken NJ said:
Reply:
Sounds like a great deal to me.
Be SURE however to find out about the maintenance requirements for the filter, and to follow them.
Use our CONTACT link to find an email and send along photos of the filter and equipment being installed and we can comment further.
Is it helpful to install a filter on a septic tank that has multiple baffles? - Deb 12/8/2011
Reply:
Deb your question is a bit confusing but I am guessing you're talking about a multiple-compartment septic tank, or (more rare) a septic tank with multiple outlets to multiple drainfields.
If you have a single tank with ultimately a single outlet pipe that feeds a distribution box and drainfield, you'd install a filter at that outlet end of the tank.
If your septic tank actually has multiple outlets that feed multiple drywells (an unusual installation) you'd need to install a filter at each of them to protect each of the drainfields.
Recently had my septic system (1000 gal. concrete / condition good / circa 1998) pumped. At time of inspection, the second access port for the septic outlet filter checked.
The tech. alerted no removable filter / "t-box" (concrete) that presented as in poor condition. Have been advised to have that removed, and a filter added.
The original leech field quite old (unsure of date) but given dyanamics of the property would seem to work well / no issues ever noticed (in the area of the front year / very open lawn area facing a road, land area slopes gently on other side of road. The tech. indicated that the system seemed to be working well overall, but that a current outlet filter would be prudent.
Both access ports provide clear access / inspection. Have owned the property (Ellsworth, Maine) since 2004. The home is a combination of new stick build and (from the sills up) restructuring of the original property (2 bath / two bedroom with den / bedroom).
Given that the system has continued to work well to this point (pumped every 4 yrs. on average), add the filter? (as a rule one / two occupants...care taken as to what is flushed / drained. Perspective appreciated. On 2016-08-21 by S. C. M.
Reply by (mod) - advantages of adding an outlet filter at the septic tank
SCM
An outlet filter at the septic tank is a good design improvement at any time and would be expected to extend the life of the drainfield. The filter reduces the passage of small solids out of the tank and into the absorption area where such solids clog the soil and shorten the field life.
Be sure to discuss the ease of access to and frequency of maintenance requirements for the new filter. Installing a filter of limited capacity that needs frequent service would be a pain and might not in fact be maintained as it should. That can in turn lead to a sewage backup. Search InspectApedia for SEPTIC TANK FILTERS to read details.
If by"t-box" your tech meant the baffle or tank tee found at the septic tank outlet end, if that's missing or damaged it's very important to repair as otherwise large solids, grease, scum flow out of the tank and ruin the drainfield.Search InspectApedia for SEPTIC TANK TEES to read details.
If the tech meant "D-box" or distribution box, search InspectApedia.com for SEPTIC TANK D-BOX to read details.
I just moved to a brand new house and that has a septic. I have septic first time in my life. I have some guest due to family occasion. Alarm goes off every other day.
I am told that septic tank pumps 400 gallons a day. If we use more than 400, it sets off alarm. We have 1250 gallon tank and other tank is 1000 gallons that pumps water to drainfield. I have a big family so I will have guest several times a year.
What should I do? Can I pump it manually e.g. total 800 gallons a day until guests are gone? or Should I buy a small pump e.g. 2 hp and pump water out on a small ditch? Can I do that? What is the solution? \
What is maximum gallons I can have pumped? My drain field is 6 ft deep and about 500 total length. - Jay 5/7/12
Reply:
Jay this is not a septic filter question, unless your septic tank is backing up because of a clogged septic filter that needs cleaning. It is also possible that your entire septic system, tank and drainfield, was designed with a capacity of processing a maximum of 400 gallons a day.
If you are exceeding the design capacity you will need help from a septic system design engineer to determine the best way to expand capacity of the system. There are other reasons for septic alarms sounding, such as pump or switch problems. Details are
I was told that i need a filter at both the inlet and outlet of my septic tank . I can't find anyplace that says yes or no .
Can you. and why? - T.C.
Reply: Here are the correct options for installing a wastewater filter in a septic system.
The advice you were given, to "install a filter at *both* the septic tank inlet and septic tank outlet) is incorrect and probably comes from confusion about the recommendation for installing a filter at the septic tank (blackwater) outlet and installing filter at a drywell (graywater) inlet. Here are the correct options for installing a wastewater filter in a conventional septic system.
Septic Filter Location 1 - at the septic tank outlet end, baffle, or tee
At the septic tank outlet: a septic tank outlet filter at the septic tank outlet, either as a separate device or as a filter at the outlet baffle or tee protects the drainfields from early clogging by making sure that suspended solids remain in the septic tank.
The septic filter has to be cleaned or changed periodically - the frequency depends on the level of use of the septic system.
This septic filter location and application is the principal one recommended by experts. Other than regular septic tank pumpout/cleanout, adding a septic filter at the tank outlet is perhaps the most significant, low-cost improvement you can make that will significantly extend drainfield life.
Details about septic filters are in the article above beginning
Septic Filter Location 2 - At a washing machine or graywater drain line, ahead of the main sewage line that carries blackwater to the septic tank.
This case applies to buildings whose gray water from a laundry area is ultimately routed to a septic tank that also receives blackwater.
A gray water filter can be installed at a washing machine to extend the life of a septic tank by reducing the load of lint and fibers that otherwise enter the system and that do not readily break down by bacterial action in the tank.
This filter would be installed at the washing machine, or at a house graywater drain line ahead of the septic tank and also ahead of any connection to a main sewer or septic line that carries blackwater (sewage, waste from toilets).
Septic Filter Location 3 - Graywater Filters Located at the Inlet to a Separate Drywell
If a building drain system routes gray water, say from a washing machine and perhaps laundry sinks, showers or sinks (but never toilets) to a separate drywell (separate and distinct from the septic tank) intended only to receive graywater, then in that case a graywater filter can indeed be installed at the drywell inlet end to protect the drywell from lint clogging and thus extend its life.
A drywell is intended for graywater only (laundry, sinks, showers), not blackwater (sewage).
Details about drywells are
Do NOT install a filter at the septic tank inlet side nor in the main sewage waste line ahead of the septic tank.
Doing so will prevent solids (sewage, feces, toilet paper) from entering the septic tank and will very quickly, probably in less than a day, completely block the entire drain system leading to backups in the building.
I'm trying to get a septic permit for a property I gave an offer to. In 2002 it was denied due to "too shallow to water table". Is there any solution to this? 20 January 2015 Susie
Reply:
Susie you need
1. to find out what septic designs your local health department will approve, perhaps a raised bed septic or a mound septic design or another alternative design - see the designs including the two I cite In the ARTICLE INDEX found among the Continue Reading links at the end of this article listed under SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN ALTERNATIVES
2. to find a local septic design engineer who understands local soil conditions as well as what the building department finds comfortable among various designs
Keep us posted
Continue reading at GRAYWATER FILTERS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
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