Guide to best building interior finishes:
Selection, installation, maintenance - this article series discusses and provides a best construction practices guide to the selection and installation of building interior surface materials, carpeting, doors, drywall, trim, flooring, lighting, plaster, materials, finishes, and sound control materials.
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This article includes excerpts or adaptations from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction (Steve Bliss, J Wiley & Sons) , by Steven Bliss, courtesy of Wiley & Sons. Photo above courtesy of Galow Homes.
As described in the book, Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction Chapter 5, Interior Finish:
Interior finishes are the most visible and, on a square-foot basis, often the most expensive components in a house. However, since many of these products and materials are marketed directly to consumers, they are often not well understood by builders and designers.
Making good decisions on such finish materials as flooring, carpeting, and lighting fixtures can make a critical difference to homeowner satisfaction.
The builder or designer can play a key role in helping the homeowner choose finishes that are well-suited to the intended use, as well as providing the structural support and prep work the materials require for good performance.
Details about the best pracrtices to be followed when installing drywall are found at DRYWALL INSTALLATION Best Practices. Excerpts are below.
Single-layer, 1/2-inch drywall is the default wall and ceiling treatment in most residential construction.
Photo at left courtesy of Eric Galow, Galow Homes.
Done well, it goes largely unnoticed. Nail pops and cracks, however, are very conspicuous and remain the leading cause of builder callbacks.
With wet or poor-quality framing, there are bound to be problems in the drywall finish. With dry lumber and proper detailing, however, drywall problems can be kept to a minimum.
Drywall consists of a gypsum core covered by two layers of treated paper. The long sides are tapered for easy finishing with joint compound. The short or “butt” ends are not tapered.
Also see CHINESE DRYWALL HAZARDS.
This material comes in four thicknesses: 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch, 1/2-inch, and 5/8-inch. A single layer of 1/2-inch drywall covers most residential walls and ceilings.
For a stiffer wall and better sound deadening, use 5/8-inch drywall or a double layer of 1/2-inch drywall, with all joints staggered between layers and the second layer glued to the first for best performance.
The 3/8-inch panels are useful for covering existing walls and ceilings in remodeling. One quarter- inch board, installed in layers, is useful for curves. Special 1/4-inch bending-type drywall has the smallest bending radius.
Fire-code drywall has special additives, including glass fibers, to increase its fire resistance. Residential building codes typically require Type X 5/8-inch fire-code drywall with a one-hour rating for party walls, ceilings over furnaces, and common walls between living space and garages.
Moisture-resistant (MR) board, sometimes called “green board” because of its green paper facing, has limited water resistance from asphalt additives, and is recommended for high-humidity areas such as bathrooms and laundries.
The material is denser and less rigid than regular drywall, so it is prone to sag on ceilings unless the framing is 12 inches on-center or less. Also it will fall apart, like regular drywall, if it gets soaked. For that reason it should not be used as a tile substrate in any application where it might get wet.
This is a relatively new product that uses an inorganic fiberglass matt instead of paper facing, since the paper facing readily supports mold growth. Panels are available with the fiberglass matt on one side or two. Glass fibers in the gypsum core add strength as well.
Details about mold resistant drywall are found at MOLD RESISTANT DRYWALL.
To prevent problems, use good quality framing lumber and follow the recommendations now found in this separate article: DRYWALL INSTALLATION Best Practices
Details about interior plaster veneer finishes are at PLASTER VENEER Best Practices. Excerpts are below.
Veneer or skim-coat plaster has, for the most part, replaced traditional three-coat plaster in residential work. It consists of a single coat of plaster 1 /1 6 to 1 /8- inch thick over a special type of gypsum board, commonly called blueboard, which is treated to bond well to plaster.
Wood floors provide a natural warmth and beauty like no other flooring material. And new developments in finishes and engineered products have expanded their durability, versatility, and ease of installation.
Still, control of moisture levels in the flooring and structure around it remains the biggest issue influencing the success of a wood flooring installation, particularly with unfinished strip flooring, but with many of the engineered products as well.
Details and information tables about solid wood strip and plank flooring are at FLOOR, WOOD SOLID STRIP, PLANK
Traditional unfinished 3/4-inch hardwood strip flooring in oak or maple remains the most common wood flooring type and the best choice where heavy use and frequent refinishing are likely. While the most common species are still oak and maple, an amazing variety of domestic and imported woods have become available in recent years.
Details and information tables about the effects of moisture on wood flooring are at FLOOR, WOOD MOISTURE.
Understanding and controlling moisture levels is the key to success with wood flooring.
Details and best construction practices for the installation of wood flooring, along with illustrations and tables are found at FLOOR, WOOD INSTALLATION GUIDE.
Standard 3/4-inch strip or plank flooring is nailed through the tongue into a sound, dry wood subfloor—either plywood, oriented-strand board (OSB), or solid planks. If installed over a slab, the subfloor can either be floated or nailed to the slab.
Details about our recommendations for finishing wood floors, including photos and tables are at FLOOR, WOOD FINISHES.
Details about the properties of and installation of engineered wood floors, also referred to by some as wood laminate flooring, are found at FLOOR, WOOD ENGINEERED, LAMINATE, INSTALL.
A recent introduction to the flooring market, bamboo is not really a wood, but a type of grass that matures in three to five years on plantations, making it an environmentally friendly alternative to premium hardwoods. To make bamboo into flooring, thin strips are laminated to form planks from 3/8 to 3/4-inch thick.
The familiar nodes that separate bamboo stalks into short sections create darker cross markings, giving the product an attractive and unusual appearance. A more homogenous color is also available from some manufacturers by using laminated strands.
Engineered bamboo flooring is as hard as maple and more stable than oak, and comes either unfinished or prefinished with the same types of finishes as used on hardwood flooring.
Details about radiant-heat wood floor systems and best wood floor installation practices where a radiant heated floor is used are found at FLOOR, WOOD RADIANT HEAT.
Radiant heating is a challenging application for wood floors due to the high temperatures, excessive drying, and greater temperature cycling to which the wood and finish are subjected. Careful monitoring and control of the moisture levels of the flooring and structure at the time of installation are critical for success.
Details and illustrations about selecting and installing resilient flooring, sheet vinyl, vinyl tiles, or cork floors are at FLOOR, RESILIENT VINYL or CORK.
Similar to inlaid sheet vinyl, the color and pattern in solid vinyl tiles run through the full thickness of the tile, making them very durable. Because the color and pattern extend through the tile, they do not wear away with heavy use, but choices are limited. Solid vinyl tiles are cut from a solid block of material and come with a low-gloss finish.
One type, vinyl composition tile or VCT, is essentially the same product as solid vinyl, but with other binders and fillers. Both types require waxing and buffing, both to seal any gaps between tiles and to create an easy-to-clean surface.
Details are at RESILIENT VINYL or CORK FLOOR
Homeowners who want a resilient floor covering but are looking for an alternative to vinyl should consider the new cork products as well as traditional linoleum, which is enjoying a comeback in residential applications.
Details about cork flooring are at CORK FLOORING
Details are at MODERN LINOLEUM FLOORS
Also see the history and ingredients of true linoleum sheet flooring at LINOLEUM & SHEET FLOORING
For the last 50 years or so, linoleum has been used almost exclusively in commercial settings, but it is making a comeback in residential settings, due largely to its use of all-natural ingredients and reputation for durability.
Linoleum is made by boiling oil to form a thick cement paste that is mixed with pine rosin, wood flour, and other fillers such as clay or limestone to make a durable, resilient sheet flooring that wears well and resists indentation.
Details and illustrations for Selecting & Installing Plastic Laminate Flooring are at FLOOR, LAMINATE PLASTIC. Excerpts are below.
Plastic laminate flooring was introduced to the U.S. market in the mid-1990s and now competes with vinyl as a low maintenance floor covering. Similar to the high-density plastic laminate used on countertops, the flooring is protected by a clear melamine layer, in some cases reinforced with aluminum oxide.
Details about choosing and installing wall-to-wall indoor carpeting & carpet padding are found at CARPETING, SELECTION & INSTALLATION. Excerpts are below.
Also see
Details and illustrations about selecting and installing interior trim in buildings are found at TRIM, INTERIOR INSTALLATION. Excerpts are below.
Once the domain of premium softwoods, such as clear pine, poplar, and other easily machined woods, interior trim is just as likely now to contain a mix of finger-jointed stock, medium density fiberboard (MDF) molded urethane for decorative trim, and flexible polyester moldings that must bend around curved surfaces.
Wood moldings and other finish lumber are graded for visual properties only. In general, the higher the grade, the more uniform the grain and color will be, and the fewer the defects, such as small knots, pitch pockets, and other natural markings
In some species, there is also a marked color difference between heartwood and sapwood. Some customers might like the natural variation found in lower grades; others find it objectionable.
Details about building shelving and other casework are at CASEWORK, CABINETS, SHELVING INSTALLATION. Excerpts are below.
For shelving, built-ins, and other casework, contractors can choose from a wide array of panel products. The most widely used are veneer-core plywood, MDF, and particleboard. MDF and particleboard are available either unfinished or with a wood veneer or melamine facing. Medium density overlay (MDO) is a good option for cabinets exposed to very high humidity or exterior uses.
Details about how to select an interior door, the types of doors and their properties, and how to install them are found at DOORS, INTERIOR. Excerpts are below.
Over 90% of interior doors today are either flush or molded. In either case, a facing of wood veneer or hardboard is glued to a core, providing the door with its strength. Traditional rail-and-style construction is still used, primarily for stain grade work, although composites and veneered construction are widely used with this type of door as well.
Details about the selection and application of interiot stains and finishes are at STAINS & FINISHES, INTERIOR. Excerpts are below.
Finishing stain-grade trim is equal parts art and science. There are a wide range of products and application techniques. With all finishes, careful prep work and control of dust on the job site are critical for a professional quality finish.
See SOUND CONTROL in BUILDINGS for Steve Bliss's guidelines for best practices for indoor noise & sound control.
Also see NOISE / SOUND DIAGNOSIS & CURE - home
To keep airborne sound from passing through walls and floors, there are four main strategies:
Details are at FLANKING SOUND PATHWAY CUT-OFF
How effectively a wall or floor reduces airborne sound is measured by STC ratings (sound transmission class) given at SOUND TRANSMISSION CLASS RATINGS
Details, tables, and illustrations describing the selection of and standards for interior lighting are found at LIGHTING, INTERIOR GUIDE. Excerpts are below.
With the exception of purely decorative lighting fixtures, all lighting fits into one of three main categories: ambient, task, and accent. Most rooms use a mixture of lighting types to create visual interest and to meet the functional needs of the space. A space lit only by indirect light sources can seem visually flat, while a space lit only by directed light from spots and floods can seem harsh and cast dark shadows
Ambient lighting is the general background illumination that is bright enough to allow people to move about safely and perform simple tasks. Ambient lighting can be achieved by directly lighting the lower part of the room (direct lighting), or by reflecting light off the ceiling and upper half of the room (indirect lighting).
Task lighting is bright light directed to a specific surface, like a countertop or desk, to illuminate activities such as reading, homework, meal preparation, or laundry.
For details see TASK LIGHTING, DEFINITION, USES.
For details see GUIDE TO RECOMMENDED LIGHTING LEVELS FOR INDOOR AREAS, TABLES & RULES OF THUMB FOR INTERIOR LIGHTING
There is a vast array of choices in light bulbs, known in the lighting industry as “lamps.” For residential lighting, the main choices are incandescent, halogen, low-voltage, tubular fluorescent, and compact fluorescent. Which lamp to choose for a given application will depend upon the amount of light needed (lumens), color of light desired, type of fixture (luminaire), and whether the application calls for a directed beam or a diffused light source.
For details see LAMP & BULBS TYPES, INDOOR
There are literally thousands of lamps to choose from, but the most common in residential lighting are standard incandescent A lamps, 120-volt BR and PAR directional lamps, and low-voltage PAR and MR lamps, along with a variety of tubular and compact fluorescent's.
For details see LAMP (LIGHT BULB) ABBREVIATIONS & TYPES
Color temperature and color rendering index (CRI) are two different ways to characterize how colors appear under a light source. Color Temperature is expressed in degrees Kelvin, and for incandescent lights equals the temperature of the metal filament. For fluorescent's and other bulbs without filaments, it is the theoretical equivalent temperature.
See COLOR TEMPERATURE AND CRI FOR INDOOR LIGHTS - color codes
and see COLOR TEMPERATURE BULB COMPARISONS
See LUMINAIRES, DEFINITION, USES
Beam spreads for directional lights vary depending on the lamp and fixture. For general lighting, choose a wide flood with a beam spread of at least 50 degrees. BR lamps are the most economical directional lamp and provide good enough beam control for general lighting.
See GUIDE TO RECESSED & TRACK LIGHT BULBS
Due to risk of fire, the International Building Code and the National Electrical Code require that all fixtures installed in closets must be either surface-mounted or recessed and must completely enclose the bulb. Only incandescent or fluorescent lamps are allowed.
Also see CLOSET LIGHTING FIRE SAFETY
Kitchens require general ambient lighting as well as task lighting on sinks, ranges, counters, and eating areas. Given the high lighting needs of a kitchen, the energy savings from fluorescent lights can be substantial. Look for fluorescent bulbs with a CRI over 80 and a color temperature near 2800K to match standard incandescent lights, or 3500K to match halogen lights.See details at
See BATHROOM LIGHTING GUIDELINES
-- Adapted with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction (Steve Bliss, J Wiley & Sons) .
-- Adapted with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction (Steve Bliss, J Wiley & Sons) .
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