Water pump switch installation or replacement:
How to Replace a Water Pressure Control Switch that Sticks "ON" or "OFF" or is irregular.
Well pump & water tank pressure control switch repair or replacement procedures & wiring.
This article describes how to replace a water pressure control switch which is not working properly or perhaps is not working at all. We describe and illustrate how to find the pump switch, then we detail how to identify, remove, and replace the water pump pressure control switch for both above-ground pump and submersible well pump systems.
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In the sketch at page top the water pump pressure control switch is indicated by the green arrow; we show this switch in more details in photographs provided below.
[Click to enlarge any image]
This article explains the detailed steps to install a new water pump pressure control switch, or the steps to follow to remove and replace an existing pump pressure control switch.
These pump switch instasllation tips will make removing and replacing the water pump control switch easier, and which will reduce the water spillage (or spray) into the room during this operation.
Really? Yeah. if you're like me you are replacing the entire pressure control switch assembly and its mounting tubing or the tubing that conducts water pressure to the pressure-sensing diaphragm on the switch base.
However if you're like a few of our more adventurous readers and you want to replace just burned pressure switch contacts or a diaphragm with a hole in it, see this separate article:
WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH REPAIRS
Regarding your text stating that
"Other pressure control switches may be bolted right to the pump motor and may use a flexible plastic or copper tube to transmit water pressure to the switch....."If this pipe (usually ¼” or 1/8” IPT diameter) is clogged...."
There is no such tubing [visible] on my system (see the photo at left), yet switches I looked at, at HomeDepot.com mention "1/4 in. pressure connection".
Am I going to run into a problem if I don't have this tubing? Can I still use such a switch? Here is a picture of back of the pressure control switch.
Reply: You'll be fine with a new pressure control switch, a close nipple (iron pipe thread) of brass or galvanized steel, and some teflon pipe tape or pipe sealant.
It looks like your switch a 1/4" rather than 1/8" diameter iron pipe though I'm not quite sure from just the photo. Larger diameter gauge and pressure switch mounting pipe means less likely for the pipe itself to clog with sediment, rust, debris. But the principle is the same.
The reason you don't see a "tube' or mounting pipe is that your pressure switch connecting base (red arrow in photo above) is screwed directly into that galvanized iron tee (green arrow), almost certainly using a "close nipple". See our brass close-nipple photo at left and see the white marking line in photo above showing where that part is hidden.
A close nipple is nothing more than a very short section of threaded pipe. (photo at left). For comparison, here is a photo of a standard pipe nipple, also made of brass in this case.
You can see another close nipple in your photo above - between the galvanized pipe tee and the metal to plastic bushing that adapts the whole setup to fit into that white plastic fitting (between the green and yellow arrows in our annotated photo).
When you unscrew the pressure control switch from the pipe tee shown in your photo, the close nipple will either come out with and remain attached to the switch bottom or it will remain screwed into the tee.
If the close nipple remains screwed into the tee and does not move at all, you may be able to screw the new switch right onto it.
Watch out. If the close pipe nipple moves in the tee but you try just leaving it in place you may have a leak when you repressurize the system.
To change out the pressure switch shown in the photo above,
you'd turn off power, remove wiring from the switch, drain pressure off of the water pressure tank to reduce the spillage when you remove the switch, then carefully unscrew the switch (attach a wrench to the fitting on the bottom of the switch) from the pipe
. I'd probably use a small pipe wrench or Vise-Grip™ tool to remove the old close nipple from whichever side of the fittings it remained, and I'd install a new one to be sure my installation didn't leak.
Your plumbing supplier can supply you with both a threaded pipe nipple of the proper diameter and a new pressure switch (whose bottom typically includes a mounting fitting sporting a female NPT threaded fitting intended to screw onto a pipe, tube, or close nipple).
(Some pressure switches might be supplied with a male threaded bottom fitting instead of female - check the parts before you leave the supplier so you have what you need to make the new connection.)
Watch out: because your whole setup of switch and gauge are mounted in a larger diameter PVC plastic pipe fitting (yellow arrow in photo above), if the switch is hard to unscrew you risk breaking that plastic part - which would mean more work to repair the system.
Avoid this problem by using two wrenches, one holding the metal pipe tee into which the switch base is screwed, and the other turning the switch base against the tee. That will avoid stressing and breaking the plastic.
Use a bit of teflon tape or pipe dope when mounting the new switch but don't blob pipe dope or tape into the switch bottom where it might block the sensing switch diaphragm orifice.
Hi I have a sta rite well pump that I had to pull up to replace the foot valve in but after replacing it and putting the pump back in my switch that turns it on and off broke and the pump wouldn't turn on.
So my father in law has the same pump but doesn't have a switch it's just wired in with the 4 screw diagram in this tutorial so my question is how would I wire this so it will come on and just just by pass the switch and let the breaker control on\off? Thanx for any help - R.V. 10/17/2013
Reply: Yes. Where to find Pentair's Sta-Rite well pump installation guides & wiring instructions:
I'll be glad to help,R.V., but to do so I need to know which pump you have installed (there are several Sta Rite models); we'll review the manufacturer's installation and wiring instructions.
A more general answer is that every pump-operated water system will have some kind of control that turns the pump on and off. If the water system uses a pressure tank then there should be a pressure control switch close to the tank. Some other types of water pumps such as constant-pressure tankless systems may use a pump that contains its own built-in pressure switch.
See WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH LOCATION for details.
Since I'm not sure what's going on at your pump or what you meant by "this tutorial", and not knowing just what broke, I describe two possible cases:
- If you are talking about the pump power on-off switch, it should be trivial to wire the pump through an external 120V (or if needed 240V) wall mounted electrical switch. In fact there should already be such a switch installed at or near the pump;
- If you are talking about having broken off a pressure control switch, you need to buy and install a new one.
Watch out: in general we would not want to wire up a well water pump to simply be "always on" nor would we wire a home water pump to run without a pressure control switch for several reasons:
- It's dangerous - risking an electrical overheat, melted wires, short circuit, fire or shock.
- It's dangerous - risking bursting a water pressure tank if excessive pressures are created in the system, particularly if the pump is a powerful model or a typical submersible unit;
- We risk a burst pipe, leaks, building damage
- We risk damaging the pump
- We are probably violating the manufacturer's instructions and thus the pump warranty too.
Certainly a review of typical installation instructions for a Sta-Rite deep-well jet pump makes amply clear that the company expects the pump to be powered and controlled through a pressure control switch.
In an emergency I would not hesitate to wire a pump to be turned on and off manually provided that a competent person were standing by the power switch to turn the pump on and off as needed; I would never leave such an emergency hookup in the "ON" Position for the reasons cited above.
Send me some sharp photos of the pump, its identifying labels, and also photos from a distance so I can see how the pump is hooked up and wired presently. When I have seen which pump you have, we can figure this out together.
If you want to contact the company directly, Sta Rite well pumps are provided by Pentair under the brand Sta-Rite - their website is at http://www.sta-rite.com/ and their page on water pumps and systems is at http://www.sta-rite.com/
- See WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH MANUALS for pressure control switch installation instructions from various manufacturers
- Sta-Rite / Pentair USA 293 Wright Street Delavan, WI 53115 Tel: 888-782-7483 Orders Fax: 800-426-9446
- Sta-Rite / Pentair Canada 490 Pinebush Road, Unit 4 Cambridge, Ontario, Canada, N1T 0A5 Phone:300-363-7867 Fax:888-606-5484
Where on the plumbing system should the pressure control switch be located & mounted? The answer has moved to a new page at WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH LOCATION.
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
On 2020-06-23 by Linda - how do I reconnect pump control wires?
Husband pulled all wires did not number them. What do I do
On 2020-06-25 - by (mod) -
Watch out: if you or he are / is not familiar with proper, safe electrical wiring you (or he) could be shocked or killed.
Identify the pump brand and model.
Pick up the IO manual for the pump
Check the wiring diagram in the manual
Identify the hot and neutral wires bringing power to the pump
DO NOT just hook up wires willy-nilly as that could result in shock or fire or worse.
On 2019-01-13 by amy - pump blows circuit breaker
My well comes on but blows circuit. I've checked contacts & cleaned. Still same problem. Got a new pressure switch. Same problem. So now looking for clog. Is there something I'm missing. Obviously I am. Thank you
On 2019-01-13 - by (mod) -
Amy
When pump operation trips a circuit breaker or blows a fuse I suspect
- a failing pump motor, perhaps a bad bearing or impeller or damaged winding
- shorted pump wiring anywhere in the circuit
Your electrician can measure the current draw when the pump tries to run - that's a useful diagnostic.
On 2018-07-19 by Anonymous - no water after I replaced the control switch
I replaced the switch and now have No water being pumped. I heard water comming to the tank for a short time but quit. Now-No water being pumped.
On 2018-11-21 - by (mod) -
We need to start with the statement of what the problem is. For example if the pump runs but doesn't deliver water that's a completely different direction of thought than the pump not turning on at all.
For a shortcut to finding out where the "no water" problem lies, start by checking out the diagnostics at NO WATER PRESSURE
If the pressure switch doesn't respond to changes in water pressure by turning the pump on or off when it should, that's a good reason to replace a switch.
But if the switch closes (to try to turn on the pump ) when pressure in the system drops to or below the CUT IN pressure (typically 20 psi or 30 psi) then the switch is working and we need to check
- for power to the pump
- that the pump is running
- that there's water in the well
- that well piping is connected
This diagnostic table is helpful: TABLE 1: PUMP WON'T RUN, WON'T STOP, or CYCLES
You can find those articles in the ARTICLE INDEX given just above.
(Apr 25, 2012) Ernie Parsons said:
I live in the North (Nunavut) and our water is supplied by truck and held in a 700 gal. tank. Sometimes when it storms and the trucks fall behind schedule and we run out of water. The problem is when this happens the pump continues to run and if we don't catch it quickly it heats up and ruins the impeller centre or the bearing. My question: is there a shut off I can install on the pump or water line that will shut the pump off when the tank is empty.
Reply:
Certainly, Ernie. Take a look at the controls described
(June 14, 2012) Mack said:
Replacing pressure switch on bladder-less tank. After I drain tank and replace switch, should I add some pressure to the the tank a few pounds below cut in (28 for a 30)as one would do with bladder tank or is this unnecessary? Thanks
Reply:
Mack, for a bladderless water tank if you empty the tank completely of water then most likely you won't have to add more pressure for the tank to work just fine when the pump is turned back on.
Aug 21, 2012) Dawn said:
When I turn on the watering system the pump does not come on but the relay switch box clicks and it clicks when I turn it off as well. I was told it could be this. New to this so I just wanted your opinion
(Jan 15, 2013) Stacy V. said:
I replaced the switch and rewired everything correct. I can't get any spark or anything. I have power coming to the switch, but still nothing??? HELP!!! I have no water...
Reply:
Dawn and Stacey V:
take a look at WATER PUMP DIAGNOSTIC TABLE and let us know if that doesn't solve the problem you describe.
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Continue reading at WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
Or see WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH INSTALL / REPLACE FAQs - questions and answers posted originally on this page.
Or see these
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