Insufficient or Uneven Heat DiagnosisUneven or incomplete or insufficient heat deklivery diagnosis & repair for buildings: this article describes the diagnosis & repair of cold heating baseboards, convectors, radiators, or steam radiators.
We provide articles that help in diagnosing and repairing no-heat problems with each types of hot water or steam or fan convector heat delivery systems.
We include a list of things to check if some building areas are not receiving heat or are receiving too little heat.
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This article provides diagnosis and repair steps for hot water or mixed hot water & steam heat systems that are not giving enough heat or that are delivering heat unevenly in a building.
If your heating system is by forced warm air furnace, see NO HEAT - FURNACE which includes addressing insufficient warm air heat.
Our reader asked how to help solve a home that was not getting enough heat. The homeowner tried turing his aquastat HI limit to above 200°F - an unsafe idea that wouldn't work anyway.
I work for a church, headed to a members home.
He said his heating boiler is shutting down on high limit. If he adjusts too high it opens the relief. Any suggestions where to start? - On 2017-01-12 by Doug
by (mod): Key diagnostic questions & answers when a heating boiler shutting down at high temperature
Doug:
If the boiler is reaching the HI limit set on its aquastat temperature control, that itself is unusual.
See AQUASTAT HI LO DIFF SETTINGS to see how the control works and how it should be set .
Watch out: pushing the boiler temperature higher than 200°F or trying to do so is unsafe. And if the homeowner is doing that because they are not getting enough heat, that approach is wrong and the problem lies elsewhere.
Watch out: if you are not trained in heating system repair, and because at least some of these conditions are dangerous, unless you see something trivial and obvious such as windows open, you need to bring a trained heating service technician to the home.
Usually if a residential boiler temperature exceeds 200°F OR boiler pressure gets ove 30 psi, the pressure relief valve will spill (RELIEF VALVE LEAKS), dumping hot (scalding) water to preven the boiler from blowing up (a BLEVE EXPLOSION).
So if the boiler is shutting down, some other safety control must be detecting a problem. OR there is another safety control involved.
Virtually ALL of those conditions involve some direct or indirect safety concern.
On site I'd expect an experienced boiler service technician to be considering a couple of lines of investigation:
When not enough heat is being delivered to the home, and assuming you can at least confirm that indeed they have hot water heat (hydronic heat) such as from hot water baseboards, radiators, or convectors, then provided the aquastat is set properly, the problem is elsewhere such as
...
Watch out If part of a building is getting heat and part is not, and the problem is not the radiator or baseboard itself, check these possible causes of uneven or partial heat distribution:
...

As Carson Dunlop Associates' sketch (left) shows, a mixed heating distribution system that combines cast iron radiators (or wall convector units) with heating baseboard in the same heat distribution piping loop can produce uneven performance.
The heating system's behavior will also be affected by the location of the thermostat. In our sketch, the heating control thermostat is located near the radiator.
Because cast iron radiators take longer to get hot in response to circulating hot water in the system than does finned-tubing baseboard, the room where the baseboard heat is installed will be very hot, maybe too hot, early in the heating cycle (while the radiator is heating up).
Then as the thermostat (located near the radiator) is satisfied and stops the boiler or circulator pump from sending hot water through the heat distribution piping, the hot, high-thermal mass cast iron radiator will continue to warm the room where it is located, while the room with the finned-tubing baseboard will cool off more rapidly.
The result may be that the room heated by the finned-tubing baseboard will be sometimes "too hot" and other times "too cold".
Advice for regulating steam heat to improve even heat delivery in a building is found
...
Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
I can't help but comment after reading the article but in most cases the boiler is not able to produce enough heat in the beginning or during the heating cycle to cause the baseboard to give sufficient heat.
Baseboard needs a good 180 deg. to heat and as we know standing cast iron will give heat at any temperature.
Most (converted)gravity systems run much cooler (if they don't then you are really throwing a lot of money away and you have a lot more problems than this one) (Jan 24, 2012) scott
I have cast iron baseboards on my entire circut. I also have programable thermostats.
The issue I have is at night. I have it set at 60. Why so low?
Because when the heat kicks on it runs and runs untill the air heats enough to trigger my thermostat to shut off.
Then for the next 30 min or so the room continues to heat... sometimes up to 70 degrees.
I spend my whole night freezing and roasting. I need to configure a control system to kick on the heat for 5-10 min to heat up the baseboard and then let the carry over heat bring the room to a more even temp... I have looked for time stats but none of them will have it cycle on and off. I have looked at remote sensors.
I think this may be my only option.
Any advice? I will save loads of fuel too since I won't be heating beyond my needs any more. (Apr 3, 2012) Jessie.
Reply:
I would look first at the properties of the building: look for air leaks, drafts, significant heat loss points
Second look at the thermostat location: it may be in a bad spot that doesn't accurately reflect the room temperature or that is affected by outside conditions, drafts in walls, even heat from the other side of a wall.
We have traditional radiators in the old part of our house and cast iron baseboards in our bedroom, which is an addition from before we bought the house 25 years ago.
We get very even heat from the traditional radiators but insufficient heat in our bedroom.
Don't know if it's simply a difference between the two types of heating or because the bedroom is farther from the boiler than any other room in the house.
If I reduce the heat for the traditional radiators, but without changing the temp on the thermostat, will that allow more hot water to reach the bedroom
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you. (Jan 27, 2013) ralph
Reply:
Look first for air-bound or partly air-bound heaters in the bedroom or piping to it.
Search InspectApedia for "air bound heating systems" to see details.
THen try drawing a sketch of the heating loop piping so that we can see where the cold bedroom is; let's see if the problem is a remote end of the heating loop bedroom;
Take a look at the diagnostic at
My baseboard heating will not shut off regardless of the thermostat setting. My house is constantly 81 degrees.
There is a switch on the side of my boiler that doesnt appear to be in the in the boiler manual.I tried flipping the switch, the boiler shut off.
I dont know if it shut off because the switch controls boiler power or because the baseboard heating is shutting off and the boiler doesnt need to be on.
I have a Weil McLain EG-50 boiler i believe, im not sure what the make of the baseboard heating is though. Please help! (Apr 12, 2014) Wayne
Reply:
Wayne when heat won't shut off I check first for shorted thermostat wires. Try disconnecting the thermostat wires at the control end at the boiler.
See our article on this at
and the diagnostics and repairs
...
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