Driven point well construction, capacity, troubleshooting & repair questions & answers.

In this article series we define driven point wells & describe how a driven point water well is constructed. We discuss why water flow and pressure are ultimately lost from a driven point well and we explain how to restore water flow (sometimes) without having to construct a new well.

Small Diameter Driven Point Well FAQs

This article describes the two most common small diameter well methods, driven point wells and jetted wells.

On 2018-01-20 by (mod) - how to check for a leak in driven point well piping

With water turned off into the building and the pump turned off you will see system pressure continue to fall if there is a leak

On 2018-01-19 by Jay.

How do I check for a leaking pipe connection. ?

On 2018-01-19 by (mod) - does a driven point well use a foot valve?

Jay

Usually a driven point well does not incorporate a foot valve.

Rather, since such wells are by definition always shallow, there will be a check valve at or on the pump.

I would look for a leaky check valve first.

Then look for a leaky piping conneciton.

On 2018-01-19 by Jay

Do point wells have foot valves ? I'm losing prime in point well continually after installing a new pump and pipe on pressure side.

I have three options left, a bad foot valve if there is one, leak in piping from well to pump or check valve on suction side is malfunctioning.

FYI I had to replace the pump because it froze in sub zero temps and cracked. The tank seems fine

On 2017-03-04 by (mod) - How long should my well pump run to fill the holding tank

Excellent question, Anon.
The answer is, ... it depends. On the water holding tank size, its air-charge, how much water remains in the tank when the pump turns on, the pump and well's delivery rate in gallons per minute (or equivalent in liters).

Typically a home water pressure tank in the 20-40 gallon size will take less than 5 minutes for a typical well pump to re-charge the tank IF no water is being run in the building at the same time.

If water is also running in the building the time to re-charge the water tank will be longer, and if water is running in the building at a rate that exceeds the pump's capacity, then the tank won't be re-filled until users stop running other water.

On 2017-03-04 by Anonymous

How long should my well pump run to fill the holding tank

On 2016-10-19 by (mod) -

Aleman,

Please search inspectapedia.com for WELL RETRIEVAL TOOLS to read a series of detailed articles about the tools that you need. After reading that material with questions remain don't hesitate to ask.

On 2016-10-18 by Alemam Eltahir

I need your support for drilling fishing tools
because its my job

On 2016-06-05 by (mod) -

This sounds as if there is still not good water flow to the well point; often your neighbors and local well drillers can update you on the success in finding water in your immediate area at the depth you are driving.

It is certainly true that water wells can "dry up" - the water table falls with heavy use, nearby wells drawing water that weren't there previously, geological changes (in some areas) and climate change, reduced rainfall, higher temperatures (depending on where you live)

On 2016-06-05 by richard Peterson

I have a 2 inch sand point well that hass been running my house for 20 years or more. But it now need the point p[ulled and a new one put in,

But i now am having touble finding water . I hav e tryed different things like going deeper, w3e put a new pump on .

we pulled the 2 inch pipe 3 times at 24 feet. The only way6 we got any water was to put a 1 inch pipe in the 2 inch with a foot valve at the bottom. we would get good and lots of water for a few minutes but then it would stop for a few minutes and start again.

I can hear noises coming from the the down by the 2 inch pipe. I have done driven water wells man y times but never had this problem.

I now there just do not seem to be enounf water , but is it true water wells can dry up. hope you can give me some ideas. Rich

On 2013-04-08 by (mod) -

Darrell, glad to assist, thank you for the nice note.

Don't hesitate to ask if you do not find information you need at InsprctApedia

On 2013-04-07 by Darrell

Your article was very helpfull to me ,and may save me a great deal of money, so thank you.

On 2013-02-17 by Danyell

We just moved into our house, less than 30 days ago. We have a driven well point and it is leaking. We have a lake on our front lawn.

The well is original to the home built in the 40's. Would something like this be repairable? Or are we probably looking at drilling a new well?

On 2013-01-04 by Chris

I said I was a heathen, Im also impatient...Its been a whole minute without a response...LOL

Ive got a 2in shallow well, no drop pipe, just a screen and check valve inserted some 55 feet down a 2 inch casing. The shallow well has worked for 15 years, but either the check valve or the screen is now clogging up reducing flow to almost 0. I tried sulfamic acid tablets...of course they sit on top of the check valve that was inserted in the casings, not on the screen below.

I tried muratic acid, not luck. I need to remove the check valve...I cant find a well driller who will touch it...Im told I need a specail tool...Cant find the tool to buy or rent...hell Ill make the tool if I knew what a 2in well casing internal inserted from above check valve looked like 15 years ago.

but I cant even find and image of this valve on the internet...Do you know where I would find a diagram and replacement 2 inch check valve that goes into a 2 inch casing for a shallow well. All I can offer you on this blog is to remember you in my prayers....but Im pretty sure god doesnt listen to this heathen anymore...Chris

On 2012-11-13 by Paul

If there is a 30' drop in height from a driven 1-1/4" well to a pond that I want to feed into, is it feasible to simply attach an airtight hose to the well at the top of the well pipe and siphon water down the hill?

I would include a "T" at the top of the well/hose connection so I could prime the well pipe and downhill hose from the top.

I would try and control the rate of water flow out of the well so as to not exceed the water capacity of the well.

I don't plan to utilize and check valves or foot valves in this design. If I'm missing anything or if my idea is flawed I would certainly welcome any input! Thanks; Paul in NW Massachusetts

On 2012-09-28 by (mod) - hard to assure that a shallow driven point well will remain sanitary.

Karen

It's hard to assure that a shallow driven point well will remain sanitary.

And it's a guess whether or not another few feet of depth will improve quality, or even change quantity for the better.

I'd ask neighbors, localmwell drillers, and test labs or health department what theyknow about the aquifer in your area.myou may need a treatment system or a drilled, sanitary well.

Also it sounds as if yournwell ismtoo closemtomhouse by current standards.

On 2012-09-1 by Karen K

We have a Driven well point. we painstakenly replaced it a couple years ago as our water level has decreased. the point had been in place for 75 yrs, so there was no point in driving it in deeper so it was totally replaced. Our water use to be very clear. Since the well went "dry" we drilled deeper until we got water again. Now although we have water and great pressure, the quality is not the same.

Would you advise that we drill deeper? It use to be 15' now its 20' Since the well is "inside" our porch, we can only add 5' at a time.

On 2012-07-19 by (mod) -

Troy B

Honestly I don't know - perhaps some other driven point well owners or installers can comment.

I speculate that some sources of variation in sediment level in water from a well can be variations in the water table level, or draw-down levels that do or do not draw from or stir up nearby sediments; even surging at a pump can impact or disturb water around a well point.

If the problem persists and water quantity is not an issue you may need to consider filtration.

On 2012-07-19 by (mod) -

Mike D: if you're talking about a driven - point well, it's a shallow well usually served by a one line jet pump and no foot valve - but perhaps a check valve at the pump; else it's time to consult with your local well driller/installer or plumbing supplier.

On 2012-07-18 7 by troy b

i have a sandpoint well not sure how deep but ive been getting dirty water not sand but blackish one day it will be clear the next its dirty ,any ideas about this problem would be appreciated

On 2012-07-17 by Mike D

where can you get a foot valve that would slide into a 1 1/4 pipe well

On 2012-05-29 by (mod) -

Anderson, we offer diagnostics for a well that keeps spitting air at the article AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES - see the links found at our ARTICLE INDEX

On 2012-05-29 by j Anderson

my well is 28ft. deep and 1 1/4" well it keeps on spitting air how do I get this to stop?

On 2012-05-14 by keith

We are putting a point along the sandy beach of lake Erie. The sand is so fine that it gets into the water. Is there a way to put fresh coarse sand around the point end?

On 2011-11-13 by Mike J

I just bought a house. My well is 36 feet deep and 2 inch well. I have water pressure for 45 secends them my pump kicks on and pumps forever to 60 lbs then shuts off, no maintenance has been don to the well it's self,

When drillen 28 years ago it had 13.2 gpm no it's 2.5 what can I do to help the water pressure?

On 2011-09-01 by (mod) - clear a clogged driven well point using sulfamic acid?

Joe,

Nice idea for trying to clear a clogged driven well point using sulfamic acid. But if you read any MSDS for Sulfamic acid you'll see that it is "Extremely hazardous in case of skin contact (corrosive, irritant), of eye contact (irritant), of ingestion, of inhalation. Very hazardous in case of skin contact (sensitizer)."

Dangers of handling sulfamic acid set aside for a moment, you'd want to know just how much well flushing is required to safely remove all traces of the chemical from the building water supply and perhaps you'd want to purchase a chemical test that can absolutely assure you that the sulfamic acid has been flushed to below the limits of detection before permitting anyone to run the water from the treated well into the building plumbing system.

On 2011-08-31 by Joe

Sulfamic acid crystals (10-12 oz.)poured down pipe, then fill pipe with water.

Let sit 1-2 days, then pump out with a hand pump. It will break down the iron/manganese in the water.

On 2011-04-28 by (mod) - solvent along with air pressure to clear the point and screen?

Using a solvent sounds appealing if the clog were minerals around a well point screen, but often the culprits are sand and silt.

More important, one would not want to pump any potentially harmful solvent down into a well where it would contaminate the water source.

Some CLR's (Calcium Lime Removers) use toxic caustics. And unfortunately with a driven point well it's a bit of trouble to pull up the well and re-drive it just to try soaking the well point in a lime or calcium solvent - at that point you'd just put on a new point.

If I'm missing something, please elaborate as it may help other readers.

On 2011-04-28 by Tedd

Why not try a solvent along with air pressure to clear the point and screen? Its likely that the clog is mineral deposits. Why not use CLR?

...

Continue reading at DRIVEN POINT WELLS - topic home, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

Recommended Articles

• DRIVEN POINT WELLS - home
• DRIVEN POINT WELL RESTORATION
• DRIVEN POINT SANDPOINT WELL CHLORINATION
• IRON & SEDIMENT REMOVAL
• JETTED WELLS
• OLD WELL - RETURN TO SERVICE
• WASH WELLS
• WATER TREATMENT EQUIPMENT CHOICES
• WELL FLOW RATE
• WELL LIFE EXPECTANCY

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