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Brown stained water at bath tub (C) Daniel FriedmanWater Supply, Wells, Pumps & Tests
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  • POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about installing, diagnosing, repairing, or replacing all of the components and controls for private well water systems.

This page provides an index to key articles about water supply systems installation, diagnosis, repair of wells, well pumps, water tanks.

These water, well, and water supply equipment articles answer inspection, diagnosis, and repair questions about the building water supply sources and equipment including water testing, water piping, water pumps, water wells, & water tanks.

Here we describe installing or repairing systems for delivering water to buildings, such as well pumps, pump controls, water filters, water heaters, water pressure problems, water supply piping, water softeners, water tank types, leaks, problems, repairs, water quality, water quantity, water contaminants, water testing, water treatment equipment, all types of wells, well piping, well controls.

This water supply home page lists key articles on all building water supply topics including wells, water supply pumps, water tanks, water testing and water treatment equipment.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?

Water Information Topics Organized Here

Photograph of a modern steel well casing and cap extending properly above grade level and properly capped. You can see from the gray plastic conduit that electrical wires enter the well, informing you that this well is served by an in-well submersible well pump.

The article series outlined below starts by organizing problems into categories. Each of the water supply system categories listed below is a link that will provide a list of helpful troubleshooting & repair articles.

To find what you need quickly, if you don't want to scroll through this index you are welcome to use the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX to search InspectApedia for specific articles and information.

Article Series Contents

Best bet for getting help with water related topics: use the search box found near the top or bottom of any InspectApedia article.

[Click to enlarge any image]

Water Tests, Water Contamination Limits, Drinking Water Testing Procedures

Photograph of a modern steel well casing and cap extending properly above grade level and properly capped. You can see from the gray plastic conduit that electrical wires enter the well, informing you that this well is served by an in-well submersible well pump.This page lists InspectApedia articles helpful in the diagnosis & testing of all types of drinking water contaminants, and in diagnosing & fixing water supply quantity and quality problems: wells, pumps, pipes, water tanks, water pressure, water flow.

Reader Question: rusty water at the bath tub

4/29/2014 john popa said:

Rusty water is coming from hot water in bathtub that is never used. Also it's coming from another sink. All of this was found during a home inspection. We have found nothing.

Inspector suggested could be a issue with the hot water heating coil. We think it is from non-use. Should we clean out the pipes using an acid wash? Can you make some suggestions? [This Q&A originally appeared at CLOGGED PIPES / TANKLESS COIL DE-SCALE]

Reply:

John, Don't do anything yet. If the home has galvanized iron pipes and water sat in piping without flowing for some time, rusty water would be no surprise and should flush out with use. An acid wash has other risks including toxicity - not something to undertake lightly. And tankless coil tubing is copper, not likely to be a source of red rusty water.

I took the photo of reddish brown water running into a bath tub shown at the top of this page under just the same conditions as you describe. The home had galvanized iron pipes and had been unoccupied for many months. The ugly water flushed out and that was the end of the discoloration complaint.

As long as you are not seeing the same discoloration elsewhere, the unused pipe theory holds water.

Watch out: there may be other implications: galvanized pipes in an older home mean new piping is in your future. Galvanized iron pipes are often nearing end of life and may be partly clogged by rust and scale in both the water supply piping and water drain piping - leading to a costly but ultimately necessary expense.

Reader Question: well water contamination issues, questions, answers

(Sept 2, 2011) Frances Franconi said:

Our well came back with coliform and ecoli and disinfecting did not clear it up. We have had a lot of rain lately. We have had this well for some time. What could cause this issue?

(Nov 5, 2012) Sandra Sanders said:

We tried to shock our well with clorox bleach after finding out we had e coli in our well. I believe we used too much, it's been days and is still very strong. What can we do?

Reply: persistent bacteria problems are different from persistent bleach problems: here's dealing with each:

Persistent coliform and e coli in a well may be from

- surface runoff leaking into the well

- nearby septic system failure leaking in to the aquifer

- or sometimes inadequate well and plumbing cleaning/shocking

I'd look closely at the numbers on the bacteria test results as that can help diagnose the problem. If the starting count is high, shocking doesn't usually fix anything and we look for either a source of contaminants leaking into the well or we decide the aquifer is contaminated.

In any case a well water disinfection treatment system will be needed to assure potable water.

Watch out: where surface water leakage into a well brings bacteria it might bring chemicals or other contaminants along too.

Sandra: indeed improper well shocking procedure using solid bleach tablets or pool tablets, or improper installation of chlorine into the well can make it hard to flush out later. If you poured straight clorox down into the well you may have coated rusty well casing sides, piping, etc. with a too-strong bleach solution. Perhaps connecting a garden hose to an outside faucet and recycling water a bit to flush down the well casing sides and well piping followed by a flush-out will help.

Also, if you introduced bleach-disinfected water into a well water pressure tank or water heater tank you may need to drain those completely to speed the bleach flushout procedure.

Reader Question: water odor complaints - smells like oil

(Jan 15, 2012) Neater Poole said:

I had a well put down in Dec. and when my home was put in the water was truned on and it had a bad smell and you cann't drink it. It smelled like oil.

Reply:

Neater Poole, the oil contaminants in your well might be left from the drilling process and if so can be flushed out;

It is normal to TEST the water delivered by a new well, both a flow rate test and a rather broad spectrum of contamination tests to be sure the water is potable and the source is not contaminated.

Check to see if those tests were done when your well was drilled.

Watch out: hydrofracking and oil and gas well drilling operations in some areas have been related to oil and even gas odors in water wells nearby, though more often contamination issues seem to track to the disposal of drilling wastewater.

See ODORS IN WATER

Water Supply Piping, & Drain Piping

Photograph of this interesting double s-trap.

Water Tanks: installation, adjustment, troubleshooting, repair of water storage tanks & water pressure tanks

Photograph of a 1-line jet pump (shallow well) and water softener

Water Treatment Equipment: water disinfection, water filters, water purifiers, water softeners, water odor removal

Water Pumps, Pump Controls, Water Pressure, troubleshooting, repairs

Reader Question: The well pump runs, but we get air, not water

Two months ago I started having problems with our water well. The first thing to happen was the pressure switch caught fire, it was 25+ years old, I replaced it. Then I had the problem of the well pump kicking on and off every few seconds so I had to adjust the air in the air tank.

Everything was fine for a month, then last week we started getting air in the lines, at first it was just a little air but as time went on there was more and more air until there was more air than water coming out of the faucets.

Two days ago I turned on the faucet and just a trickle of water was coming out, I went outside, looked at the pressure gauge and it was at 20 pounds and the pump was still running.

I turned off the pump, checked for leaks in the house as well as all around the well housing to the home, no leaks. I left the pump off for a hour or so because I thought the water level maybe low, 20 inches of rain this month, didnt really think it would be low but I thought it maybe a possibility.

A hour later when I turned on the pump it still would only go up to 15-20lbs of pressure and the pump was still running.

When I turn off the pump I don't lose any pressure, it stays at 15-20lbs until I use water in the home. I looked again for leaks, didnt find any so I replaced the pressure switch, the pressure gauge, the wires from the breaker box to the pressure switch and the wires from the pressure switch to the other bigger switch.

I thought maybe the wires were bad and not allowing enough current to run the pump properly.

I filed all the points on the bigger switch box and cleaned all the connectors. I tried the pump again, still it will only go up to 15-20lbs of pressure and the pump will keep running.

The well is around 400 feet deep, I opened the top of the well housing and put my ear to it, I don't hear any water leaking back into the well and I can hear the pump running.

We replaced the pump and air tank 5-6 years ago. We have lived here for 20 years and have had only a problem one time with low water levels and that was in the middle of summer with very little rain for months, its always had water.

I also checked the air tank, the rubber thing inside of it is busted or something, I'm getting water out of the air valve on top of the tank. I don't think the air tank has anything to do with the amount of pressure the pump pumps up to the home but it will have to be fixed.

There is no one close that has a pump puller in service, the closest is almost 100 miles away, and its going to take them almost two weeks to get here to check out the problem.

So if anyone has any ideas, suggestions, or anything that maybe able to help please post! It will be greatly appreciated! We have 5 children with no water, its getting kind of crazy! Thank you! - Woody

Reply: Some Water Loss Diagnostic Suggestions for This Case

Usually we start diagnosing a well pump and water problem by focusing first on the obvious, known problem, assuming that the chances of multiple problems happening at once are less likely.

But in fact multiple well pump, water tank, piping, and pump control switch problems can occur in a given interval and might even be related to a single root cause.

If you want to click right over to a diagnostic article

see AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES

But based on what you've said so far, it sounds as if:

1. You need to replace the water pressure tank. A burst bladder in the tank can briefly send air out through faucets and will end up leaving the well pump short cycling on and off as the water tank air charge becomes lost.

A burst bladder in the water tank can also interfere with water entering the tank and it might even interfere with proper operation of the pressure control switch.

2. A short cycling well pump for any cause can burn-up the pump pressure control switch.

On occasion it can also damage the pump itself - which in your case is a submersible down in the well, costly and a lot of trouble to replace. So we ought to be as thorough as we can with the above-ground tests and fixes before pulling the pump out of the well.

3. Some causes of a well pump running on without shutting off include loss of water in the well, a damaged pump, a well piping leak, and a pressure control switch set to a cut-off value higher than the pump can reach.

First swap out that bad water pressure tank and give us a comment back here on what happened.

At WATER PUMP DIAGNOSTIC TABLE you will find a catalog of things to check, and in particular, take a look

at WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING

See WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR for our complete diagnostic series.

Or choose one of the water pressure diagnosis and repair starting points listed at the beginning of this section.

Reader Question: my pump switch was broken, how do I get it going again? Loss of electrical power to the well pump?

Reader Amy asks: Concrete blocks from the well pit wall fell onto my pump and pressure control switch, smashing everything. I'm trying to get it working again. How do I fix-up and get the pump switch going?

(Apr 2, 2012) charity said:

Please the power supply for my pump isnt on. so i ran a cord from my meter box to the pump. it got wet when it stromed and shorted out and melting the breaker on the pump. i replaced it and hooked back up my cord. nothing. i have tested the cord its give the electrity. what is wrong and what do i need to do help.
C

Reply: your pump pressure control switch may need replacement

Amy, take a look at WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH to see details on how these switches work, are wired, and are repaired or replaced. If the blocks broke off the switch from its mount, you'll probably find it easier and more reliable to just replace the switch and its mounting tubing or hardware.

Charity, considering that you have already risked death by electrocution once by your pump wiring, I hope you'll leave it off and hire a licensed electrician. It's no joke that you could kill yourself or someone else.

Reader Question: water pressure loss diagnosis: the water pressure dropped throughout the whole house and the pipes are humming

What would cause a water pressure drop throughout whole house and after runs a little bit a loud humming sounds is produced through the pipes - anon reader

(Nov 30, 2011) mikebarber said:

I just replaced my old water tank with a new "pressurized" tank. Now, when I take a shower and the pump hits the low/pump on pressure of 40 psi, I loose pressure (almost to a trickle) in the shower and the water temperature fluctuates. I did not have this problem with the old tank. What could be causing this?

Reply: look for a well or pump problem; humming may be transmitted from an aboveground pump.

Anon reader - About a water pressure drop throughout the whole house and humming pipes: the observation that it's the whole house that's affected argues that the problem is with your well or pump. But with no other information a diagnostic guess would be just too speculative.

See WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR

or WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE to see our diagnostic guide for loss of water pressure in a home.

Mike, we saw this question on another InspectApedia page just recently. If I recall, the reply could only be a speculation that offered some things to check:

If you replaced the pressure tank but kept the old pressure control switch, debris stirred during the plumbing work may have clogged the pressure sensing switch mounting nipple (that small diameter pipe) or the bottom of the switch itself, causing it to fail to respond to the pressure drop.

Try tapping on the switch, and also watch the pressure gauge at the pressure tank. Or replace the switch and its mounting nipple.

The fluctuating water temperature might be related to changes in the water flow rate through your water heater, especially if you're using a tankless coil to make hot water.

Reader follow-up:

(Dec 1, 2011) mikebarber said:

Thanks Daniel: Yes I did ask the question on another page and couldn't figure out how to get back to it (I bookmarked this page).

The pressure control switch is mounted on the Sears Shallow Well Jet Pump (3/4 hp - 40 to 60 psi). There is no fitting on the tank since it is a pressure/bladder tank. There is a small black tube going from the pump body to the bottom of the pressure control switch/box. I did remove it from the pump at one point.

I have since drained the pump, tank and water lines via what looks like a car radiator drain cock on the bottom of the pump (hopefully clearing any debris or air from the PCS line). The pressure gauge is on the pump in the opening designated as the "priming port" in the pump manual.

This pressure gauge has always been there.

Recently I noticed that as the water runs and the pressure drops the gauge gets to 49 psi and stops, then suddenly drops to 40 psi and the pump turns on. It takes on average 4 mins and 15 secs for the pressure to return to 60 psi.

The tank manufacturer tells me that this is a 19 gal/ 45 gal equivalent with a 5.9 gal "draw down" which should be the same as my old steel 45 gal tank.

I have a gas fired "normal" water heater and I suspect the temperature change is as you suggest, just exacerbated because of the extremely low water pressure.

I will take the pressure switch hose and fittings off to make sure they aren't clogged (do you think the sudden pressure drop is a symptom of this?)

Water Wells, Cisterns, Springs: installation, troubleshooting, repairs & maintenance

Schematic of a drilled well (C) Carson Dunlop Associates

Reader Question: water filter plugs up after shocking the well; sand and debris in the water supply

After shocking my well, i had to replace my whole house water filter about 6 to 8 times, because it would plug up with black sediment. Is this normal? - Tom

(Oct 23, 2012) Sheila said:

we are having issues with our well. Earlier in the season, we kept getting sand in our water.

Everyone kept saying "its the water table" because we were in a draught. But, we've been getting rains for the past month or so fairly regular and now we are getting mud in our water. A filter that should last about 6 months is barely making it for 2 weeks. Any ideas.

Reply:

Tom, no it's not normal for shocking the well itself to cause the water filter to clog up.

If by shocking the well you simply poured a bleach solution into the well casing, that alone wouldn't explain the debris clogging at your water filter, but if you followed our recommended procedure of washing down the casing sides with recycled chlorinated water then indeed you may have stirred up debris in the well.

After replacing the filter a couple of times this problem should stop.

If the clogging of your water filter continues then I suspect that something has happened either to the well casing (a crack or opening admitting dirt), the aquifer (changed, perhaps due to nearby drilling or blasting), or the well piping (a leak).

If the problem persists you'll need to install a higher capacity sediment filter system on your water supply.

See FILTERS, WATER.

Watch out: the conditions you describe would lead me to also have a bacteria test for well contamination.

Sandra

Shut off water, drain your pressure tank and hot water tank, run water to an outside faucet to clear the well, then refill tanks and flush piping.

Water Well Bore Alignment & Plumbness

This discussion moved to its own page

at WELL BORE ALIGNMENT PLUMBNESS STRAIGHTNESS - standards, test procedures, why well bore alignment is important

Water Pressure Diagnosis & Repair

Well Water Quantity - how much water can we get? There's not enough water

Photograph of an open well casing

Well Water Quality - what's in the water? Some water is not so good to drink

...


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Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

On 2022-10-05 by InspectApedia (Editor) - new pump is rapidly short cycling

@David J,

Thank you for following-up; am I right that you increased the pipe diameters between pump and tank?

On 2022-10-05 by David J

@InspectApedia-911,

Hooray! It’s works as intended now. Thanks for your quick knowledge to guide us all.

On 2022-10-05 by InspectApedia-911 (mod)

@David J,

Thanks, do let us know what do you find as that will certainly help others who read this article.

On 2022-10-05 by David J

@InspectApedia-911,

I suspect the same and am taking steps to change it now.

I will let you know how that goes with an update.

On 2022-10-05 by InspectApedia-911 (mod)

@David J,

And just to be sure we've got this exactly right, the pre-charge is set when there's no pressure on the system. Otherwise you can get fooled about what the recharge actually is.

So if we are confident that the pre-charge is correct and that there is no valve or check valve that's blocking the flow between the pump and the pressure tank, and the pump is rapidly short cycling, I suspect that the pump output rate is getting ahead of what it can flow through the smaller diameter piping between the pump outlet and the pressure tank inlet.

On 2022-10-05 by David J

@InspectApedia-911,

Yes I pre-charge the tank to 28 psi because my switch is a 30/50 psi switch

On 2022-10-05 by InspectApedia-911 (mod)

@Anonymous,

What is the pressure tank pre-charge pressure, and did you set that with the tank empty?

Well cycling (C) InspectApedia.com DavidJ

On 2022-10-05 by David J

I changed out my well tank and pump. They were completely different in design, new versus old. The new system cycles when the pressure reaches 50. No leaks to speak of.

Also does my well pump need to be higher than a couple inches above the supply/suction line.

Switch is mounted on pump. Do I need to move it to the t valve since that is the new style?

At a loss as to why the pump cycles.

I also have a smaller diameter hose for the water out from pump to tank. That is the supply line is 1 1/4” and the pressure line to the tank is 1" until it gets to the check valve then it is 1 1/4”. Is this a problem?

I also had to go to 3/4” 6 inches before th check valve. Maybe that’s the problem?

On 2022-03-16 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - sand/shallow point well won't prime

@Kami D,

Rather than trying to give a complete answer here, please first take a look at

REPEATED LOSS OF WELL PRIME

where we provide common causes of lost well prime and step by step diagnosis and repair.

Start there and let us know if you have additional questions.

On 2022-03-16 by Kami D

I have a cottage where there is a sand/shallow point well installed. I try to prime the pump, but nothing happens. Where should I start with trying to get to the main issue here? Ive had plumbers look at it- they get it working after a lot of priming and then eventually stops producing any water.

On 2021-12-09 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - low water yield may be due to pressure control switch that is clogged

@Karl Saidla,

Because you say that your well delivers plenty of water once it's gotten going, I suspect that that initial problem may not be a well flow rate but rather a pressure control switch that is clogged and not responding to the initial drop in water pressure.

Try replacing the switch and also clearing or replacing the tubing or pipe that conducts water pressure to the switch sensor port.

On 2021-12-09 by Karl Saidla

I have a double jet pump for a well that appears to be low yield. If our bathtub faucet is fully open, the water trickles to nothing after about 1 minute. After a break of a minute or two, water returns, and we can proceed normally for all other uses (dishwasher, shower, toilets, other faucet etc.).

We have never lost water in any permanent way - it just stops momentarily when we use water too quickly. It has been this way for the entire 13 years that we have been living in the house.

Recognizing that the "proper solutions" would probably include getting a holding tank or drilling a new well, are there adjustments we could make (to either our pump system or faucets that would reduce the severity of the problem?

I am wondering, for example, if we could slightly restrict the flow of water out of our pressure tank so that water is used a bit slower, or potentially decrease the differential of the cut in/cut off settings so that the pump starts running a bit sooner.

Right now, the pump cuts in at about 26 PSI, and cuts out at about 36 PSI. Assuming no faucets are on, it takes about 8 minutes from when the pump cuts in for it to reach 36 and cut out.

On 2021-11-17 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - no water going into pressure tank

@Trudy Drover,

Old pressure switch may be debris clogged

No water enters pressure may be a closed valve or a stuck bladder

On 2021-11-17 by Trudy Drover

Water well troubles. Pulled the lines from the well, changed out foot valve, galvanized fittings, which had a leak, installed the well cap back on. Got a new well pump, now getting water to the faucet's/toilets, but no water going into pressure tank.

Having to turn switch from the pump on and off in order to get water and turn off water. The psi remains at 30 when pump switch is turned off. Looking for solutions to what the problem could be now? Thank you in advance.

On 2020-08-14 by (mod) - fix a leaky air valve at the water pressure tank

Photo of a water tank air inlet valveBill:

Look closely at the point of leakage; most likely you can remove, apply teflon paste, and reconnect a new fitting.

When it's a leak at the air valve or Schrader valve, look closely: is the leak at the threaded base of the valve? If so you may be able to tighten the valve or to remove it, apply teflon tape, and re-install it to stop the leak.

If the Schrader valve is leaking at its stem or core, a **temporary** emergency repair is to simply install and tighten a valve stem cap over the open end of the valve. This is a standard tire valve thread so any auto supplier has these caps as do the tires on your car. (In an emergency, I've borrowed the valve cap off of the car's spare tire.)

For a proper repair, it's possible to replace the Schrader valve stem core - again a standard automobile tire valve part, though on some water systems that use a snifter valve, the schrader valve stem core on that device uses a much weaker spring than an automobile tire valve core.

Exact details of how to repair a leaky water tank air valve are

at WATER TANK AIR VALVE REPAIRS

On 2020-08-11 by Bill

Hi hope you can help me. I have a pressure tank leaking from the bottom fitting as well as water coming out of the schrodier valve at the switch. The boost pump is attached top the wet side of the tank. Does the tank need replacing and can I just reattach the boost pump?

On 2020-08-10 - by (mod) - flow rate testing

Well flow test report interpretation

Well flow test report showing flow diminishing over time (C) InspectApedia.com JoanJoan:

"Flow rate" is defined in articles I'll cite below; basically it is not a useful number until you obtain it over a 24 hour period.

Otherwise you're simply exhausting the well - it's like claiming your car can get 80 mpg because you measured the fuel consumption rate after you drove a mile and turned off the engine.

5 GPM is a flow rate that is required for functional flow in the building; your well cannot sustain 5 gpm for more than one hour.

So if sometimes your flow rate is less, then you're depending on water storage to make up the difference; that is, for a low flow or limited flow rate well, a common step is to add a large water storage capacity, allowing the storage to recover at the lower flow rate overnight or during other periods of disuse.

Watch out: A well flow test is often run over a 24-hour period.

Your well flow rate fell from 7 gpm to under 4 gpm after two hours after drawing 600 gallons - about the typical daily water use for three people.

It's not that you couldn't live with this well, because you could, but you're starting off with a rather modest water supply.

You should be concerned, and you should budget for well flow improvement costs or water storage costs.

To understand this topic and thus to equip yourself to discuss it, I recommend reading these two brief articles:

WELL FLOW RATE - how do we find out well water quantity - well flow rates or draw down tests

WELL FLOW TEST PROCEDURE - how can a homeowner or home buyer make a simple well water quantity test

On 2020-08-10 by Joan

I’m not sure if you are able to help with this question but I’m really hoping so.

We just received the results of a well flow test on a house we are in the middle of purchasing.

The GPMs started out at 7 but began to drop after 20 minutes. By the end of the two hours test the GPMs had dropped to 3.8. The total flow was 641 which is just over the state requirement if I’m not mistaken and I know the GPM should be at 5 but I’m not sure if that is 5 during the duration of the test or as an average? I’m hoping you can give me some insight on whether I should be concerned.

During the home inspection of the home the inspector tried to fill up the bathtub and it took over an hour and I’m really wondering if the well could be the reason for this. The home is a full three bath house at 3000 square feet.

I've attached the results for you to view

Thank you for your time.

On 2020-08-08 by Moderator - Leathers and well bores

90 ft deep wells with a 2in board don't use leathers. Leather was used as a washer on hand pumps that used to be able to pump from a depth of about 20 to 25 feet.

And metal well piping doesn't rot. Wood rots.

So what do you report having been told sounds to me like someone who either doesn't know much about wells or is speaking very carelessly.

In order to try to restore a 90 ft deep 2 in weII service I would start by finding out what's in the well. That means hiring a more professional well service company who has a well inspection camera. Using the camera, you can find out the condition of the wellbore and whether it is collapsed or damaged and you can also find the depth of the water.

If the well bore used to be in good condition and there's a reasonable volume of water in the bore the next step would be to temporarily try pumping out the well to see if it has a usable flow rate or recovery rate. If it does then you'll probably install a two-line jet pump to provide water from your well.

On 2020-08-08 by John

I have just purchased an old brick school house. It has a 2 inch well that we believe is 90+ ft deep. I tried to run the pump and the elcetric motor ran for over 10 minutes without any luck bringing water up. Everything seems to be in working order.

My local well man says it could be the leathers are too worn or the pipe is rotted through as the well is from 1900. I was hoping to revive this well. Any ideas? Can a sandpoint be lowered into this pipe and solve the problem? I only need 4-5 gal / minute

On 2020-07-29 by Moderator - When water requirements far exceed well capability to deliver water

When you see 10,000 gallons of water storage at a site then you know the on-site water requirements far exceeded the ability of the wells on the site to deliver water. Strategy in such a case is to use wells that have a poor weak or slow recovery rate to refill water tanks slowly, typically over a 24-hour period, or at night when not much water is in use.

I can't second-guess your well company who was on site, but from what you have described it seems to me that what was missing was a very common system that uses a type of pump protection switch or device that will turn off a water pump to prevent it from pumping air or running dry. It's running dry that destroys a water pump.

So you can tell your manager that you did exactly the correct thing by immediately turning off the pumps when you saw that there was trouble.

You can add my explanation that unfortunately by the time that could be discovered it may have been too late in that the pumps were already damaged,

and you can add that the original installer shortchanged you by not providing protection for the pumps or at the very least testing the well to establish their flow rate to prove that the system that was being installed would work correctly.

I can't really know, but I suspect that the fact that calls weren't returned means that the original installers knew perfectly well that they hadn't done the correct job.

Once you establish that you have functional well you should at least be sure that from protection devices are part of your new installation.

On 2020-07-29 by Sue

I work at a facility with 11 buildings on the grounds all of which, will eventually need running water. The buildings are 50+ years old and have not been used in 15-20 years. We are remodeling 1 building at a time and at this time only need to use water in 1 of them.

We have 2 wells only one of which was working and 4 10,000 gallon holding tanks. We recently replaced all the underground pipes running from the well to the buildings.

It's been 1 problem after another. Brand new underground pipes were bursting for no apparent reason And leaks around the pressure pumps, specifically from one of the boosters.

We just installed 4 new pumps and everything was working well for 2 days, and then all of a sudden, there was no water pressure. I walked around the property, looking for evidence of another leak from the underground pipes and could not find any. I turned the swith on the pump off anyway and called the owner.

He called & notified the pump company and said they would be out in morning. They never showed up the next day but instead sent an electrician out to install a flow switch so that when water got too low in one tank, it would automatically switch to another.

Unfortunately, the damage was already done and now my boss has to pay another $20,000 because all 4 new pumps need to be replaced again. My boss is understandably very angry, but thinks I did something to cause this.

All I did was turn the pump off when I noticed there was no pressure. I've never turned it on and know better than to mess with things I know next to nothing about. I dont know if someone from the pump company put this in his head or if he just thinks because I was the only one on the grounds at the time, that I must have caused it.

Apparently, the cause of the low pressure was due to the water level in the holding tank getting too low. The holding tank has tiny holes in the top 1/3 of the tank so it water shoots straight out the holes when the tank is filled over 2/3 from top.

I believe the pump company knew this problem would eventually happen because they knew there was nothing installed to protect the pumps, should the well run dry and that we should not be held liable, after all, they're the professionals. I believe they are reaming my boss because they believe they have found a money tree.

Apparently this whole ordeal has cost him $120,000. I dont know if he is exaggerating the cost to me or if this is typical or if he is just dealing with an unethical company, and I dont know enough about wells & pressure pumps and holding tanks to offer my opinion but I feel so strongly that something just isn't right, I'd really appreciate some expert advice.

On 2020-07-29 by Moderator

You will want to check with the pump manufacturers about the properties of the specific pump brand and model that you are selecting or planning to install.

Many pumps can tolerate running continuously for long intervals.

Rapid short cycling on and off is what damages a pump and / or the pump pressure control switch.

You should also consider including a pump protection switch to be sure that your long-running pump doesn't run dry and suffer damage from that condition.

On 2020-07-18 by Jeffy

Hi- I've lived here for 10 years. I am on my 3rd 1.5hp pump, and 2nd 119 gal bladder tank.

Concerned with these higher expenses, I asked the well company what is the best scenario for maximizing well components life while irrigating my yard etc. They recommended getting the well's flow rate output matched to the irrigation output, so that the pump runs continuously without cycling.

I have done this, and the water pressure runs steady at 48psi on each 25 minute irrigation cycle. The pressure switch is at 40/60psi. Is pump cycling more wearing than continuous running?

Does it depend on the water temperature the pump is submersed in? How long the pump runs continuously?Any scenarios better than what I am doing is greatly appreciated!

On 2020-07-11 - by (mod) - how to test for water hardness

Cheryl

Thanks for asking about water hardness testing.

Please take a look at WATER HARDNESS: HOW TO MEASURE

where we tested and demonstrated several different types of water hardness tests. The easiest, a simple test strip, properly used, will be fine for your purposes.

On 2020-07-11 by Cheryl D

What is the best water hardness kit to buy that will give me a close correct setting for my water softener

On 2020-07-05 - by (mod) -

Ahmed

Please find your question and our detailed reply now at

at WELL BORE ALIGNMENT PLUMBNESS STRAIGHTNESS - standards, test procedures, why well bore alignment is important

Thank you for asking a most helpful question. Let me know if you need more information

On 2020-07-05 by Husnain Ahmed

What is deep well deviation limit from vertical/plumbline .any material for deviation measurement please share

Please I want to know the various standards defined by international groundwater agencies for deep well casing deviation (plumpness limit) from plumbline for 300 ft depth.


...

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