Well Tank / Water Tank Air or Leak RepairsWater tank repair or replacement guide:
The water tank troubleshooting article series beginning here describes how to determine if you need to replace the water pressure tank.
Synonyms for water pressure tank include: water tank, water storage tank, well tank, pressure tank, pressure control tank, Extrol, WellXTrol, bladder tank, bladderless water tank.
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Discussed here: How to diagnose & repair water tank or water pressure tank problems. Well pump & water tank diagnosis & repair procedures - do I need a new water tank or well tank
Water tank leaks: Our photo shows a rusty leaky steel water pressure tank that is beyond economical repair.
More generally, repairs for water leaking out of the water tank are sometimes possible, depending on where and why the leak is occurring.
Watch out: poking at or messing with what seems to be a tiny leak in the surface of a water tank, because the steel is probably rusted thin, risks converting the problem to an instant catastrophe and flood.
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Possibly, yes, depending on the extent of rust and on the outcome of discovering during repair just how much hidden rust is on the inside of the water pressure tank.
At your local hardware store you can probably purchase a special screw and washer part (less than $5.00. U.S.) intended to temporarily fix pinholes in water pressure tanks.
Watch out though: often a pinhole on the exterior wall of the tank will be found to be a bigger hole when you start messing with it - because the tank is corroding from the inside (usually) the area of thin walled steel may be bigger than you think.
Buy several repair screws of varying size and start with a small one to see if that can screw in tightly enough to stop the leak. If it won't, you'll need to use a larger screw.
Welding is technically possible but not economical, and a repair epoxy might work with good surface cleaning provided you could take the tank out of service long enough and keep it dry during the gluing process, but like the little Dutch boy with a finger in the surface of the dike, that's not the most reliable repair.
Figure a new water tank is in your future.
If the rust perforation on a steel, bladderless water pressure tank is very tiny, 1/8" or so, temporary repair can sometimes be made using a special short lag-type threaded screw with a neoprene washer. Leak repair screws are sold for this use.
In an emergency you can even fabricate one of these water tank leak repair lag bolts, as we did for our photo (left).
We used a 3/4" long lag screw and a thick neoprene washer that happened to be around. If you buy a factory-made version of this device the washer is designed to seat and seal against the curved surface of the leaky water tank.
Watch out: because the steel will be thin around the rust spot, you may find that you need a larger screw than you thought, or bought.
We recommend buying several sizes of water tank repair screws, but start by using the smallest one that will be secure when screwed all the way in to the tank.
Below we show an assortment of typical plugs used to make a temporary patch on a leaky water tank.
The left-most tank repair or patch device is intended for larger holes. The "tee" screw is inserted into the hole and then the assembly tightened by the top bolt. The three middle lag-screw type plugs are simply screwed into smaller rust or other perforations in the water tank. Start with the smaller screw and if you can screw it up tight to stop the leak, quit there.
If however you cannot screw the plug tightly to the tank surface, remove it and move to the next larger plug screw size.
The right-most expansion plug is not intended for tank leak repairs; rather it is an expanding pipe plug that can be used when pressure testing water or other piping.
In our OPINION such repairs are temporary at best and you need to beware that the repair spot may leak again soon.
A second type of water pressure tank repair that might work in some locations is the use of quick-setting epoxies, caulks, sealants, including those that can work in wet conditions.
Details are at CAULKS, NONTOXIC
You still need to replace the water tank but this approach can stop or slow a leak while you wait for the new tank to be installed.
This approach would not work on the horribly rusted water tank shown above - that one is just too far gone.
Leaks like the ones in the above photos can also leak the air charge out of the upper portion of the tank when the in-tank water level is below the leak point. A water pump short cycling problem could be due to an air loss in the tank to a leak in the tank itself.
This steel water storage tank is leaking. When you see damage like this on a water tank, the perforation has rusted through from inside the tank. A tank that looks like this needs to be replaced.
Watch out: don't poke at rust like this on a water tank - you are likely to change a slow seep or drip into an immediate catastrophe - the steel around the site of rust perforation is usually quite thin.
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We just had our pump replaced after 18 years. Total cost with tax was $2400. Project was done on emergency basis on a Friday night and we were really stuck. During his visit the plumber/owner suggested we consider a larger pressure tank than our 20 gallon unit, also recently replaced.
The system worked well for many years and I don't see the need to purchase another larger tank. Any thoughts? - Wayne Ouellette
If your water tank is a newer bladder type, even a smaller 20-gallon tank gives the equivalent of a larger old style (non-bladder) tank in the draw-down cycle - the amount of time that you can run the water before the pump has to come on.
As long as your pump is not WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING (which may shorten pump life), the gain from a larger tank is probably not much. If your tank is an older type with no internal bladder, the reason to go to a newer tank would be reliability and reduced maintenance.
Watch out: before you go to the trouble and expense of replacing a water pressure tank, make sure that you have correctly diagnosed the problem that you are "curing" - you wouldn't want to replace a water tank only to find that you still have the water pressure or quantity problem because another, perhaps less costly, part was at fault.
Also
see WATER TANK LIFE & REPLACEMENT.
The illustration at page top is courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, Inc. in Toronto.
Check other water pump and pressure problems before replacing expensive parts - Before assuming that a water problem is due to the pump or well itself,
see WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE a specific case which offers an example of diagnosis of loss of water pressure, loss of water, and analyzes the actual repair cost.
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
My convertible jet pump turns on, fills the pressurized water tank (with a bladder), and shuts down once the tank has filled. The tank's initial air pressure before being filled with water is 28 psi and 45 psi once filled with water by the pump at the time it stops.
All shut-off taps on the line delivering water from the tank to the cottage are open, yet no water flows from the tank through the deleivery line. The water system is used only during the warm months and shut down and drained completely in the late fall for the winter.
I've used the system in this manner for years with no problems until now. I also just replaced the foot valve. Any idea(s) what the problem(s) is/are? Thanks On 2022-05-26 by Don
by InspectApedia (mod) -
@Don,
If I understand correctly that the pressure tank is definitely pressurized but no water is delivered at the fixtures,
then I would be looking for a closed water valve between the pressure tank and the rest of the building.by Don
That's right. So I presume I should replace the main shut-off tap as it's probably defective? Also, becuase the tank is pressurizing, I can assume that the bladder is functioning properly? Thanks.
by InspectApedia (mod) -
That's reasonable, Don. Particularly if the valve is a gate valve. Those can break internally so that the valve appears to be open but internally the gate stays closed. See GATE VALVES.
My holding tank went dry. Never happened. I assumed my well went dry. Turned off well pump ordered water . Left holding tank pump on and tank was empty 48hrs later. Now I can turn holding tank pump on and off for use and tank doesn't go empty.
So I figure I have a break in the line from house to tank. right now Im hauling and managing running pump. Just tried the well pump to see if well refilled. Nothing,. After turning on well pump it kicked in about 60 seconds later then automaticallyturned off.
As opposed to the well being dry could the tank be too full to call because the float is sitting up in water? or am I sol dead well? On 2022-01-09 by Sarah
Diagnostic Suggestions by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - "My holding tank went dry"
@Sarah,
Since you say you ordered water for your water holding tank, I'm guessing that this is actually a large water storage tank that you fill from a well or from water delivery.You turned off the well pump but not a pump moving water out of your water holding tank.
If the water tank was empty but you left the holding tsank pump "on" it's quite possible that the pump impeller or even the pump motor were damaged.
So I'd start with a diagnosis of that pump and its controls.
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