How to prime the well pump & how to diagnose & fix repeated loss of well pump prime:

How to get the water pump working again when the problem is lost prime & What types of water pumps are most likely to need to be primed?

The spinning impeller inside of a typical jet pump requires a water-filled cavity in order to develop enough lift power to bring water up from the well. Loss of well prime means that the water inside an above-ground well pump has been lost along with water in the piping between the pump and the well

. The air-bound pump can no longer lift water out of the well. Here we describe the common causes of this water loss and thus the loss of well pump prime.

Page top sketch courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, a Toronto home inspection, education & report writing tool company [ carsondunlop.com ]. The sketch shows how a foot valve works and where it is installed. Replacing a foot valve in the well requires that the well be opened and the well piping be pulled out to permit removal of the old valve and installation of a new one.

This article series describes how to prime a water pump to restore water pressure to a building.

Recurrent Lost Prime in a Well Pump? - How to Fix Repeated Water Pressure Loss

First Let's Correctly Identify The Type of Water Delivery Problem You've Got

Before we get into details about how to prime the well pump, or diagnosing why the well pump keeps losing its prime, let's make sure we're tackling the correct problem.

If the diagnosis determines that you need to re-prime the water pump, the instructions are provided in this article. But there can be other causes of loss of water supply that are not pump priming trouble but something else.

[Click to enlarge any image]

No water pressure due to lost pump prime: IF you have no water pressure, absolutely no water in the building water supply piping, and no water in the water pump itself, THEN we've lost prime and the one line or two line jet pump may be unable to bring water back from the well.

Where a one line or two line jet pump is installed, you may have lost prime at the pump. The pump motor will run but no water is delivered. If this happens it is possible to re-prime the pump with water from another source. If your well pump is a submersible model - located in the well and under water, then the problem isn't lost prime, it's one of the other failures listed in the WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR article we'll link to below.

Watch out: before proceeding, turn off electrical power to the well pump. If a jet pump is allowed to continue to run "dry" there is risk that you will damage the pump impeller assembly or the pump motor.

IF the no-water pressure problem is due to lost prime in the well pump, below is the procedure for restoring water pressure in the building.

Other causes of loss of water pressure: We discuss various causes of loss of water pressure

at WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR.

If your water pump is a one-line jet pump, like the system shown in our photo below, it is sucking water from a shallow well; you probably don't want to do so yet (read more of this article first), but the instructions

at WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE show how to prime the well pump and they should work equally well for either a one-line jet pump or a two line jet pump.

Details about one-line jet pumps and how they work are given separately along with other jet pump troubleshooting and repair procedures

at WATER PUMP, ONE LINE JET.

If your water pump is a two-line jet pump (shown in our photograph below) and if it's running but there is no water delivered to the building, the problem could be that the water pump has lost its prime.

A two-line jet pump needs to send water down into the well (and through a special valve at the end of the water pickup-pipe in the well) in order to bring water back to the building.

At the bottom of the well pipe the downcoming water squirts through a venturi device to send a larger quantity of water back up the larger-diameter pipe, through the pump assembly and into the water system.

If the jet pump pump impeller assembly is filled with air it has no pumping power.

Details about how 2-line jet pumps work are

at WATER PUMP, TWO LINE JET.

If your water pump is a submersible unit, the pump is located down in the well itself. In this case if you have not got water pressure, the problem may be with the pump or the well itself, but it's not a loss of prime - since they are normally always under-water, submersible water pumps are self-priming.

Details about submersible well pumps are

at WATER PUMP, SUBMERSIBLE

but what you need to know here is that a submersible well pump won't lose prime unless the water level in the well has dropped below the level of the pump itself. If that has happened, the problem is lack of water in the well, not a pump priming problem.

If your water pump keeps losing prime repeatedly, a shallow well jet pump well line could have a bad foot valve (in the well) and so be losing prime.

A leak in the well line can also lead to loss of prime. If priming the well water pump using one of our methods shown below seems to fix the problem but soon the well pump loses prime again, your plumber will want to check for a bad foot valve in the well or a leak in the well piping between the well and the building.

If this is the case continue reading this article for diagnostic suggestions.

Check valves installed at the proper location at the pump and perhaps elsewhere can help prevent loss of prime on this system. (Other problems that can give the same symptom include internal damage to the water pump, a well that has run dry, or a piping leak between the well and the building it serves.)

Watch out: If your 2-line jet pump (or other above-ground well water pump) loses prime and cannot draw water from the well, don't let the well pump keep running as you may burn up the pump motor or damage the pump internal parts. Take the steps outlined next.

Before assuming that a water problem is due to the well itself,

see WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE

a specific case which offers an example of diagnosis of loss of water pressure, loss of water, and analyzes the actual repair cost. sterile containers).

What to Do if a Water Pump Keeps on Losing its Prime

If your water pump is in the building and the pump keeps losing its prime, a shallow well jet pump well line could have a bad foot valve (in the well) and so be losing prime.

• If the well pump is running continuously and not delivering water, shut it off immediately to avoid pump damage.

A leak in the well line can also lead to loss of prime.

If priming the well water pump using one of our methods shown below seems to fix the problem but soon the well pump loses prime again, your plumber will want to check for a bad foot valve in the well or a leak in the well piping between the well and the building.

Common causes of repeated loss of well pump prime & thus loss of water pressure

• Air leak in the well pump, well piping, or where well piping connects through the well casing cap (on some wells).
  
  In our photo shown above the red arrows point to possible leak points at the injection pipe at the cap of an older well casing top. Air leaks here permit water to drain out of the well piping, losing prime.
• Air leaks at an above-ground jet pump, in the pump casing or impeller assembly can cause loss of well prime.
• Bad check valve at the well pump or bad intermediate check valves on deep wells using multiple check valves
• Bad foot valve: If you keep losing prime at the water pump where a two-line jet pump is installed, it's possible that a check valve at the pump or more likely at the foot valve in the bottom of the well needs to be replaced. But there could be other causes of repeated loss of pump prime.
• Leak in well piping: a leak in the well piping between the foot valve and the pump - anywhere along that route, or even at the above-ground well pump itself or at the water pressure tank can cause loss of pump prime.

For example, a leak in the well piping inside the well can permit water in the piping and well pump to siphon backwards out of the well pump (and even the water pressure tank) down into the well when the pump as stopped.

If we prime a pump and it seems to work fine but then loses prime again after sitting un-used over night or for a longer period, we'd ask our plumber to check for a foot valve problem or a leak in the well piping.

Don't aggravate your plumber: remember to listen to your plumber. If you are too "directive" in telling the plumber what to do, s/he may do exactly what you ask even though s/he has a better idea of where the problem lies.

[When I was a boy my mom Teal used to sing this song to me Don't aggravate your mother or you'll wish that you were dead. Don't aggravate your mother or she'll smack you in the head. Smacks were less frequent than the song.]

Watch out: After pulling well piping out of the well for any purpose, such as for replacing the foot valve or repairing a leak in well piping, you should shock the well and well piping since you've probably contaminated it by laying your well piping and parts on the ground.

Well piping, foot valves, tailpieces and other parts stored at the plumbing supplier are not kept in sanitary conditions either.

We explain how to shock a well

at WELL SHOCK / CHLORINATION PROCEDURE

Step by Step Diagnosis of Recurrent Loss of Well Prime

Reader Question: Trouble with new pressure tank from Flotec

5/25/2014 Reader G.V. wrote:

My water is pumped from the well in the adjoining canyon to the big, black storage tank level with the house.

Thence it is pumped into a smaller pressure tank which shoves it the house faucets and shower at an acceptable pressure. That pressure tank was the one I replaced after decades of use because its mechanism went bad.

[Click to enlarge any image]

The new one is correctly installed, fittings and connections show no water leaks yet, when the pump turns on because we have used up about 15 gallons of water in house or garden. That water is replenished without any noticeable gap in the flow.

BUT: Even though we may not use use water for a while, water is lost which makes the pump come on needlessly.

The mystery is that no water is actually lost because the level in the big storage tank is NOT lowered.

That means, the new pressure tank may be faulty in that it signals that water has been taken out of the new pressure tank but was not really used and is looped BACK into the storage tank ad infinitum unless we turn on a faucet, do a wash, shower or do dishes.

That's the best way I can explain it. Have now posted this conundrum in shorter version to a forum where I found similar complaints. Thus I suspect the new pressure tank may not respond to any water being used, causing the pump to run because the water has mysteriously drained. required.

I don't know where else to look because the pump s working fine. Of course, I can have the local plumber come and look at it but for $ 50.- , which would be wasted if in fact I would need to get another tank under the warranty.

So in the meantime, we control the pump from our breaker box in the house.

Every time that we need water, we kick the breaker on for a few minutes in the knowledge that another 15 gallons is available for about 5 minutes without the pump motor coming on because the unused portion of water has been siphoned back from the smaller pressure tank into the large storage tank.

I'll add that I have tried a possible solution by shutting down the water supply to the house, thus disconnecting the flow completely. That did not mitigate the loss of water pressure in the Flotec.

Reply: shut off house water and watch for loss of prime

Shutting off water into the house eliminates a clandestine leak such as a running toilet. (we assume for now that's shutoff valves actually shut off fully).

That's why I suggest what means is a leak in well piping or a bad check valve at the pump or a bad foot valve in the well.

Reader follow-up: should I install an additional check valve?

Thanks, Daniel.

That is the only location I have not tested. Is there a way to see if the check valve allows a back flow into the storage tank?

The Craftsman manual shows the check valve as being screwed into the pump housing but it does not have groves or "wings" to use a tool to unscrew it. Also, how could it have gone bad? Movable parts? A spring?

Would it be easier to install a one-way valve in the 1-1/4 inch intake pipe just outside the pump body?

Reply: pump check valves can fail; don't install multiple check valves

You pose an interesting question for which I don't have a good answer, though I suspect an experienced plumber might have something to say.

Check valves can fail due to wear but more often due to debris accumulation on the valve seat or on occasion mineral deposition.

I suspect that when in doubt the plumber just replaces the valve at the pump, as that's easier than testing it.

If you can get the valve off we could try (really you could try but I'm interested) inspecting it for obvious trouble, cleaning it and watching what happens.

I can't tell from your photo whether this is a 1-line or 2-line jet pump.

If you give me the pump model number we can look for its installation and service manual (or do you have it?) to see how the check valve is removed. Perhaps it unscrews using a pipe wrench (that'll leave some marks).

I am reluctant to add additional check valves without more research. Some pump systems specifically advise against multiple check valves (that can lead to operating troubles) while in other installations I see that they're in use: at the pump and of course in the well at the foot valve.

Reader follow-up: Sears Craftsman 1-Line Jet Pump Check Valve Installation Details

Here is the info you needed on the pump's check valve.

Per Google it seems that there are "universal" check valves on the market literally for a song while the Sears one is almost $ 50.- shipped.

I had been waiting for your reply before disconnecting the pipe from the pump housing and unscrewing part 12A (circled in blue) but don't know if that will show me anything. I spent much of last night reading everything you have written about mine and other people's problems my head is spinning :-) .

I have very soft well water and use one filter at the well pump and a second one on the storage tank and a third one in the fridge for drinking water.

Everything is clean and dirt clogging is not present.

The tire pressure gauge reads 38 lbs. on the new pressure tank, pump kicks in at 28 and cut-out is 44. Tell me if that is within bounds.

Yes, I read too that one should not have any more valves than one but thought that an additional one-way outside the pump would be OK since the internal (12A) doesn't seem to be doing its job. I don't mind scratching the part that my finger is indicating. It has no grooves and thus I thought it's not removable, but the schematic seems to show that it is.

And - yes - it is a ONE LINE installation, typical shallow well, since it sits right next to the water source (the well and its pump is about 200 feet away and is in perfect condition). I control it from a timed switch outside the front door.

The well itself is only about 7 feet deep and sits partly in a small creek which runs about 9 months of the year. The shallow aquifer is in the bottom of a canyon.

Will await your further opinion.

Reply: Procedure for distinguishing between a water pump check valve failure and a leak in well piping or foot valve

Sorry about spinning your head (makes me think of those horrible horror movies). I would welcome any suggestions about how to make our information more clear, easy to find, navigable.

Typically the well repair company will observe loss of prime, replace the above-ground at-pump check valve, and if prime is still lost they'll next pull the well piping and replace the foot valve.

If problems persist people start looking for a leak in the well piping anywhere along its route, tackling the more accessible areas first of course.

To do some detective work on your own first try these steps:

Inspect the above-ground or at-pump check valve

You should be able to unscrew and inspect the check valve. Look for

• Visible damage in the check valve assembly such as a nick in the valve seat or disc, a soft, broken, or dislocated spring, or a groove, damage, or debris on the valve seat.

What I've been thinking about without the thrill of a perfect solution is how one can tell the difference between a leaky check valve at the pump above ground and a leaky foot valve or a leak in well piping.

• IF
  • the check valve at the pump is NOT leaking
• AND if we are dead sure that water into the building is shut off,
• AND if the pump still loses prime
• AND the pump itself is not leaking (which you'd see)
• THEN
  • I suspect either a leaky foot valve
• OR
  • leaks in the well piping anywhere between house and well bottom. That's a leak in the well piping or a bad foot valve.

A leak in well piping sometimes can be heard if it's in the well (not if it's in the buried segment),
and sometimes gives itself away by the admission of air or debris into the water supply.
But not necessarily.

Check for water leaks out of the well piping or foot valve

Where it's troublesome to inspect the well piping entirely, which is usually the case, I might try this:

• Disconnect the well piping at the pump just past the check valve, to the point where you can look into the vertical rise of standing well piping entering the pump area.
• Fill that line with water if you splashed some out.
• Watch it. if the water level drops over any period - minutes to hours - then the foot valve or well pipe are leaking.

This is a bit of a crude approach but might work.

Check for air leaks into the well piping or at the water pump

• Also watch for air leaks into (or water leaks out of) the pump itself and piping system

Air leaks INTO the well piping can also make the pump lose prime if the leak is significant.

For example, re-using ABS water pipes and elbows can leave clandestine air leaks into the piping at those joints.

I've spotted this problem by looking at the clear plastic surrounding a water filter installed at the well pump. When I see air bubbles entering the filter I know there is an air source somewhere.

I've on occasion fixed the problem by tightening hose clamps on the pipe joints and by adding a second hose clamp on either side of the joint.

Plumbers don't like to re-use these connections for just this problem, but since generally we don't have lots of slack in well piping that re-use is common.

Keep me posted.

Reader follow-up:

I may have confused you by bringing up my well pump installation but it serves only to supply water to the storage tank and my problems arise from that part of my system.

The well merely fills the tank near the house and works flawlessly. Its foot valve is only 7 feet down and is unobstructed.

Thus the storage tank and the new pressure tank located together are really the source of my water since I may just as well have a water truck come to my piece of land and pump water into the large 2500 ga. tank.

... we have reliable water which for the past 35 years we have had without interruption.

So she puts up with having to flip the breaker whenever we need running water in the house. I have a line running to the garden directly from the well so in that regard we're OK but it's not filtered and is not as pressurized as water out of the tank near the house.

Reply:

OK so if we are confident that there is no hidden well piping leak (which I grant as a temporary assumption) we're left with returning to the question of accurate problem diagnosis.

We are talking about intermittent well pump cycling on when you don't expect it to, and we assumed a problem with a check valve or piping because you were sure that no water was being draw from the system on the "house" side of the pump and tank.

Are we sure the well is losing prime?

Alternatively if the well pump was left running for a long time it would be no surprise if it's impeller assembly was damaged. If that occurred the pump would run but not deliver water at proper pressure.

• IF
  • The pump is delivering water at normal pressure when it runs
• BUT
  • the pump is losing prime
• THEN
  • it's not a damaged pump impeller, it's an air leak in or a water leak out somewhere in the system.
  • OR
• Our original assumptions were mistaken and water is leaking out of the pressurized system somewhere on its outlet side.
  
  See WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING where we discuss common sources of unanticipated operation of the well pump.

Reader comment:

I have two pumps, but it's not the well pump we're discussing but the one next to the storage tank.

The former is far away from the latter and transports water to the storage tank with its own, separate system, which is where I have the problem.

Reply:

got it

I'd double check that you can successfully fully turn off water to your building.
Then watch the pump for intermittent cycling. If it cycles on there's a leak to be found.

Step by Step Diagnosis of Repeated Loss of Water Pressure: no water in the morning traced to pump leak: fooled by bad pressure gauge

Reader Question: I have found your web site to be very good and straight forward on problems and solutions but haven't found a solution to my problem yet. Let me explain our problem.

We have a ranch in south Texas that has two storage tanks (about 3000 gals each) that feed a single pump that supplies water to the house. The house is about a 1/2 mile from the pump. The storage tanks and the pump are at about the same elevation as the house but the 2" line runs down through a valley that is roughly 75' below the house.

The pump setup is a single pump with two pressure tanks (about the size of a swimming pool filter) located on the 2" discharge line via a cross and then the 2" line runs to the house.

The pressure regulator on the pump is the same one as shown on your web site. The problem is during the day the system works just fine but every morning when we get up there is zero water at the house.

If you go down to the pump and look at the pressure gauge it is reading right at 41 psi.

The regulator is set to come on right at that pressure and go off at ~51 psi. Don't really understand why this is happening. When you open the valve at the house that should relieve the pressure on the line unless the head pressure is to great to allow the pump to come on?

This same system has worked great in the past but has developed this problem. We have changed the regulator out a couple of times thinking that was the problem but it wasn't. I just today changed the set pressure so the pump to where it comes on around 48 psi and shuts off at 60 psi. If you have any ideas I sure would like to know. - C.D. 8/4/2014

Reply: is the pressure control switch accurately sensing tank pressure? Is the pressure gauge working?

When you changed the pressure control switch, did you check for evidence of debris in the water supply that might have clogged the switch sensor port or the tube that conducts the water pressure to the bottom of the pressure switch?

When you go down to the pump in the AM when there is no water pressure at the house, if you "tap" on the switch box itself will that turn on the pump?

[I asked these questions because it doesn't add-up for there to be good pressure at the water tank but no pressure in the building unless there is a blockage or total loss of connection between the pressure tank and the building - Ed. ]

Reader follow-up:

There was nothing in the line looked clean. Haven't tried tapping on the switch to see if that would kick the pump on. Always just manually close contacts.

Reply: check for a pump control that is shutting off the pump due to no water from the well

Also, some controls include a circuit that shuts off the pump if the well is running low.

But probably diagnostic is that you see water pressure in the pressure tank -

If this is an internal bladder tank, its possible that the bladder is burst and sticking to itself or not letting water in the tank or out of it. OTOH if you see tank pressure varying then I'm wrong in that guess. IF the gauge is on the tank that'd tell us something.

[The "due to no water in the well" was a clue here. I should have added "due to lost prime" - Ed. ]

Reader Follow-up: the well is not running out of water

We can't have a well running low problem because we have two big storage tanks ~6000 gals the pump is feed from. A complete separate pump system is filling the storage tanks. I can't answer the question about pressure on the pressure tanks because we don't have a gauge on them.

But to test the system we have a block valve just down stream of the pressure tanks before the line heads to the house and in the discharge line we have a 3/4 hose bib.

So all I have to do to test the pressure tanks is close the block valve and use the hose bib to bleed water of the pressure tanks and they seen to have plenty of pressure. If that makes sense to you.- C.D.

Reply:

OK so we see how confused I can get by e-text.

Yes the bleed-to-confirm water pressure makes sense. IF you are getting water out of the tanks they're not blocked.

Besides for large tanks such as yours there would not be an internal bladder design. But you might encounter such a problem if you had a pump and bladder type pressure tank at the house end of the system.

Reader follow-up:

Water at house is only going through a water softener. So there are no bladders there.

Reply: look for a leak somewhere in the water system

adding

or there is a leak

[I was thinking of a leak in the well piping, but I should have considered a leaky foot valve (loss of prime) or a leak elsewhere - Ed.]

Reader follow-up: checking water pressure, checking pressure gauge

I will let you know if raising the pressure has any effect on the problem. If the water pressure is off at the house the ranch foreman will check the gage to see if there is pressure and then he is going to open the hose bib and see if the pump comes on then.

Thanks for trying to help me fix this problem.

Reader follow-up: found leak in well pump body & a faulty pressure gauge

I believe we have determined the problem or in this case a couple of problems. What we found was the pump case actually had a small crack that during periods of none use (overnight) would allow the pump case to drain and then the pump would lose prime.

The system has a sensor on the pump to shutoff the pump in case the pump looses prime so that was why the pump would appear not to start only after sitting overnight.

Also the pressure gage was faulty and would not read less than 41 lbs, oddly enough that was the pressure where the pump should have started. So all those problems together was making it appear to be something else and that kept us looking in the wrong places.

We can sleep tonight :-) and again thanks for helping me try to figure out the problem and yes we did learn something.

Reply: pressure gauges: false friends?

That bad gauge threw us off the scent.

I'm was also confused that you said you opened a valve at the storage tanks and had plenty of water, BUT depending on the tank and piping arrangement, that might be true at those storage tanks even when water pressure in the tanks was not sufficient to push water uphill to the point of use.

Repeated Loss of water pressure: lessons learned about gauges, pumps, leaks, and well pump prime

• When water pressure and quantity are functional but disappear after a time during which no water was used and thus the pump was inactive, that's a strong suggestion of repeated loss of well pump prime. Look for and find the leak.
• When there is no water being delivered and the gauge is reading pressure, either the gauge is mistaken (stuck) or water is not leaving the pressure tank (a stuck tank bladder, closed valve or similar condition).
  
  See WATER PRESSURE GAUGE ACCURACY
• When the pump and well are able to deliver water at good pressure but then water pressure is totally lost and when the pump is an above-ground unit such as a 1-line or 2-line jet pump, check more carefully for loss of prime.
• Causes of loss of well pump prime include more than a bad foot valve.
  
  A leak anywhere in the water system from pump and pressure tank, through piping, down to the end of the pipe in the well (foot valve) that lets water out or air into the system can cause loss of pump prime and thus loss of water pressure.
  
  Damage to the pump itself, such as a damaged impeller, can prevent the pump from achieving prime or can weaken the pump's ability to deliver water at pressure, but in that case the behaviour of the pump will probably be consistent, not varying with time of day.
  
  (An in-well submersible pump will overcome such leaks since being in the well loss of prime is not an issue, but air may show up at faucets if well piping is leaking).

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Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

On 2022-05-31 by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - ways to check for leaks inside or outside

@Mike,

The problem could be in the house such as a running toilet that you haven't noticed or could be outside such as a leaky check valve or foot valve or even a leak in the piping.

Turn off the water supply into the house.

If the pressure continues to drop then you know the leak is outside.

On 2022-05-31 by Mike

My well builds up pressure might keep it for a hour then it loses pressure don’t think pump kicks back on What is my problem?

On 2022-03-11 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - sprinklers not working even when pump is on

@Linda,


see the diagnostic suggestions and steps give at

WATER PRESSURE TABLE 2: PUMP RUNS, WEAK or NO WATER PRESSURE

and the additional suggestions at

WATER PRESSURE TOO LOW

On 2022-03-10 by Linda

My well pump only operates my sprinklers. my pump runs but my sprinklers don’t come on. I primed my pump turned it on the water comes out of the zone index. Filled it again took the cap off my well piping, turned the pump back on with my hand over the the pressure was very weak

On 2022-03-08 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - well system loses prime unless water is left running

@Tina E,

I am SO happy when we see a question for which we're pretty confident of our diagnostic guess.

If your well system loses prime unless you leave water running that tells me you probably have a failed check valve or foot valve. So unless you keep the pump running frequently, water drains back out of your pressure tank and water piping back into the well, siphoning water out of the pump and losing prime.

The other possibility is that you have a good check valve or foot valve but there's a leak in well piping.

Some shallow well pumps include a check valve in the front end of the pump. Other installations may use a check valve on well piping near the pump. Other installations use a foot valve at the water pick up at the bottom of piping in the well.

Check through the article above on this page.

Install a check valve.

On 2022-03-08 by Tina E

My husband and I have a well that will not stay primed unless we leave a faucet running in the house. we have bought 2 new pumps and they would not hold a prime either. we have dug up the PVC to almost the well itself and replaced.

My husband has tried for the past 26 years, and this is the first time he cannot get a prime to stay. Oh, and it's a 25 foot well with a screen not a check valve in the well.

On 2022-02-28 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - my pump simply runs never gaining pressure

@JB,

OK so we'd think that the pump is fine - except ... IF it was run "dry" for minutes or longer, it could be damaged.

If you're sure the pump was never run dry then we've got to look for a different problem.

As your well is 60' deep I'm assuming you've got a 2-line jet pump.

A bad foot valve that's stuck or a bad well bottom venturi (the water pick-up device on a 2-line jet pump) or of course an air leak on the suction side (the larger diameter pipe) could be the trouble.

When you fill the pump and pipe with water and turn on the pump, listen to it. If the pump remains at the same quite noisy sound level as when first turned on, its impeller may be spinning in air. When the pump draws water its noise quickly drops.

Oh, and you need to fill and prime the down-pipe not just the suction pipe.

If no air is entering the pump from an air leak I suspect a bad pump impeller

On 2022-02-28 by JB

I have a 2 inch well casing, 60 foot deep with 40 foot of 1 inch galvanized drop pipe and packer head. Its run by a 1/2 hp jet pump through a 2 inch 90 degree adapter head.

I also replaced the pump when the well first failed to prime incase that was the problem with no change in the attempt to prime.

My question is that i have triple checked all connections can fill the suction pipe full or water with no loss but still can not get my pump to prime it simply runs never gaining pressure. Any suggestions would be amazing.

On 2022-02-11 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator

@Dale,

Sounds like

- improper installation: not tight or re-using a fitting that should be replaced. Trim back the PVC if you can and use new fittings.

- excessive water pressure blowing fittings apart

- water hammer and vibration loosening parts

- something else we've not considered

On 2022-02-11 by Dale

1 1/4'' inlet PVC pipe to shallow jet well pump after re-installed for six days came loose again. pump kept running until I turned off breaker. check valve down about two feet, so when I cut last time six days ago it still had water above check valve so it is not leaking down past the check valve. something has caused head to get hot and make the PVC female connector come loose and loose prime again, same thing happened before, primes up easy when I re=hook it.

On 2021-12-02 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator

@Trace,

I appreciate the frustration when you can't get water, but try to avoid that basic mistake of saying you've tried literally everything. Since the problem of no water remains, there is something un discovered or unfixed.

Have you gone over every step on the page above? Has anyone inspected the well itself to confirm that it contains water and that the pump or foot valve is in water?

On 2021-12-02 by Trace

Can't get the well to prime done everything tried everything no water

On 2021-09-24 by inspectapedia.com.moderator - clogged sensor port opening

@David K.,

Perhaps a clogged sensor port opening in the bottom of the switch.

On 2021-09-24 by David K.

What can cause a 30/50 pressure switch to fall below the cut in setting often, I have set the switch made sure I have the correct amount of air in the pressure tank ( new) by the way and cleaned the metal lines, still can’t get it to stop kicking off

On 2021-07-25 by (mod) - why do we lose prime except when we keep water running?

@Julian Spencer,

The observation that if you run water often enough you don't lose prime suggests that there is a leak back into the water storage cistern or tank or a leak out of piping between tank and point of use;

In contrast, I also considered an air leak at the pump itself, but in that case I don't think running it at frequent intervals would avoid the prime-loss problem.

Post a sketch for me if you can - use the Add Image button to add a .jpg .gif .png .bmp file

I want to see the layout and also the various elevations. Is the pump above the point of connection of piping to the water storage tank?

On 2021-07-25 by Julian Spencer

I have diligently read all the questions, comments and your very helpful solutions but I am still struggling.

My water comes from a 7000 ltr depository which due to my position has to be filled by tanker.

I have installed a new surface pump to send water to the house. The pump has worked perfectly for a week but has now started to lose prime. First time was yesterday and lost prime overnight. This morning no water and prime has gone in the space of one hour.

I have an inspection pipe (extension of the pipe from the tank) which has a tap fitted and comes above the level of the tank and the pump. The water level is remaining at the level of the pump (the water level in the tank is below the level of the pump) so I am thinking the foot valve is ok.

As far as I can see and feel there are no water leaks.

The pump keeps prime providing we turn on a tap at regular intervals but this is hardly a solution.

All suggestions, comments and help will be appreciated.

On 2021-05-22 by Teri

@danjoefriedman, thank you

On 2021-05-22 by (mod) - pump motor got very hot, warmed well pipe, burnt up the pump

@Teri,

The bottom line is it sounds as if the pump is running dry, overheating and is damaged. When your new pump also isn't working I suspect that either it wasn't correctly primed, or there's a leaky foot valve or leak in the well piping.

More diagnostic articles and instructions on how to prime a well pump are in the Index to Related Articles found about on this page

On 2021-05-21 by Teri

my water pump got so hot in the middle of the night till it warped the pipe going into the well and also burnt up the pump I have since went and bought a 3/4 shallow well pump and all new fittings and pipe gauges etc to put everything back new.
the pump will prime but will not hold a prime and there is no water going into the holding tank...

I had no problem up till 2 night ago.so here I am $600.00 + dollars spent and still no water
My neighbor says that because the farmer is watering his field 8-10 miles up the road he is using up all the water -do you think that is possible?
thanks,
Teri

On 2021-05-11 by (mod) - pump keeps going but we don't have water

@Anthony Monte,
I agree that it sounds like you're missing a check valve, or there's a leak somewhere in the piping system.

Both you and Mary Smith want to see the Diagnostics listed at

WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING

@Mary smith,

Watch out: Turn off the pump. If you let the pump keep running "dry" it is likely to be damaged.

Wait three or more hours to see if that gives your well time to recover in which case we've diagnosed a possible cause.

If turning the pump back or doesn't deliver any water or the pump continues to run then see the Diagnostics listed in the article I gave just above.

On 2021-05-11 by Mary smith

Having a major issue. The pump kept going but there was no water. We use the pump for household usage. I don't have a photo right now my email is maryesmith377@gmail.com

On 2021-05-08 by Anthony Monte

my pump always has to be primed when shut off its only for sprinkler system i was thinking go running poly pipe inside the i inch and a quarter pic pipe to i need to put a check valve at the end or if the poly pipe is submerged in water will it be ok

On 2021-04-07 - by (mod) - can't get my pump primed - how much water is needed?

@Jimmy, in the RECOMMENDED ARTICLES you'll see procedures for priming the well;

If you have made an effort to prime the well in which you sure that you had sufficient water to fill the pipes and pump, such as from the neighbors garden hose and / or a large water supply, and if you still can't fill the piping, it's possible that the pipes have become disconnected in the well or there's a leak in the well.

You can calculate how much water is needed to fill well pipes if you know pipe lengths and diameter

see - VOLUME of WATER IN a PIPE - CALCULATION

If you know you've put in a lot more water than that then it's time to have the well inspected, perhaps with a well camera.

On 2021-04-07 by Jimmy

Well will not feel up to Prime

On 2021-03-06 - by (mod) - no water at some locations but plenty at others: not a pump prime issue

@Sarah, That sounds to me as if there is a debris blockage (or a closed valve) in your water supply piping or, possibly, very low flow rate and pressure due to clogging of the driven point or actual loss of water in the well, or a pump failure.

See the diagnostic steps at

WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR - home

https://inspectapedia.com/water/Poor_Water_Pressure_Diagnosis.php

On 2021-03-06 by Sarah

I have a point well that brings water to the house AND the faucet on what is called a dog house that houses the point well.

We have water coming out of the faucet but not into the house. Any ideas? We do not have any leaks.
Thank you so much

On 2020-12-21 - by (mod) - symptoms of air leaks in well piping - loss of pump prime

An air leak in the piping or a damaged or worn impeller or pump that's not running or as low voltage or the lift is greater than the pumps lift capacity

On 2020-12-21 by Anonymous

If drop pipe is full of water why won't pump prime

I only get air bubbles when priming my pump

On 2020-11-01 - by (mod) - pump loses prime when we run a lot of water?

That's not lost prime, John, but you may have run the well dry.

On 2020-11-01 by John jr.tyra@gmail.com

My Submersible Well Pump System is losing prime when I turn on more than 1 faucet. I can run a high output sprinkler all day with no problems. With 2 sprinklers running for about 20 minutes and pump cycling properly, it reaches a point when system cycles on for about 5 seconds and shuts down. At this point, the tank is empty.

I can turn off 1 sprinkler and force the system to come up by holding the throw on the pressure switch until pressure reaches about 35 pounds. It is then up and running.

I would appreciate some help. I am to the point I can’t see the forest for the trees.

On 2020-09-15 - by (mod) - well loses its prime every time the power goes out.

Paige

Forgive me for being a bit brazen but that doesn't sound right to me. Maybe there's a misunderstanding here.

Usually when well loses prime when power goes out we figure that there's a leaky check valve between pressure tank and well piping or a leaky foot valve at the bottom of the well piping.

Replace the check valve or foot valve.

Watch out: By no means do you need a new well simply to replace a bad valve.

On 2020-09-15 by Paige

So my well loses its prime every time the power goes out. I've been told that there is not really a fix for this other than we will need a new well. I can reprime it myself but don't want to be doing it all winter long. We just got a new motor put into the well this spring, and the bladder was replaced right before that.

My dad had changed the "well points?" this year as well. Looking to get a better answer then having to get a new well. When I have to reprime it it normally picks right back up where it left off. Super easy but a pain in the butt. TIA

On 2020-08-31 - by (mod) - check valve needed to protect pump prime

Mile:

Sounds as if water is leaking back to the storage tank; as anonymous said, you need a check valve.

On 2020-08-25 by Anonymous me

@Mile,

hi there , do you have a non return valve in line on the pressure/output side of the pump before the pressure tank ? this should help stop water going back thru pump to tank and hopefully hold the water pressure in line so the pressure tank can regulate the output side , regards mat

On 2020-08-24 by Mile

I have just installed a new J5S Goulds shallow well pump and a 44 gallon water worker pressure tank. I am off the grid and my water pipe is 3/4 inch PVC.

My water is being pumped from a 2000 gallon storage tank to my house (no well). I have used pvc reducers from intake to my 3/4 inch pipe. I have reduced the pressure on the pressure tank to 28 psi.

I’m assuming the pump pressure switch is set at 30/50 psi. When the pump comes on everything is flowing fine and getting water in every location in the house. When pump reaches 50 psi and shuts off all of the accumulated pressure escapes and the pump has to restart.

It sounds like it’s escaping from around the pump intake area but cannot detect any leaks in that area. There is no sound of pressure escaping while the pump is running.

Only when it stops and then all pressure is lost. I have installed a pressure gauge and pressure release valve on the T coming from the pressure tank. Again all plumbing is being reduced to connect to my 3/4 inch pvc water pipe. Please help.

On 2020-07-08 - by (mod) - using Nuwell tablets to unclog a driven point well won't fix a well pump priming problem

Naturally since the landlord owns the property they can try whatever they want.

However I don't quite understand how trying to use a product designed to unclog the point in a driven point well is going to have much to do with a pump losing Prime.

Perhaps the landlord thinks the problem is not lost prime but simply inability to draw water up through the driven point.

r

See this NuWell PRODUCT BROCHURE [PDF] for an understanding of what this product can and can not do.

Use of this product is explained

at DRIVEN POINT WELL RESTORATION

On 2020-07-07 by Morgan

I tried what you suggested and I had the same results. My landlord wants to try nuwell tablets in the well.

She thinks it’s clogged screens and hard water build up causing the problem. I’m trying to convince her to get a well guy out here to pull the well pump and see if that’s the issue or any leaks from the well to house. My water issue got worse with replacing switch and tank in basement. Thank you

On 2020-07-06 - by (mod) - I keep loosing prime from my well water

Just a guess: low flow well, low water in the well, combined with a pump protection device on the switch. Try waiting for a few hours with pump off, then see if you get a longer draw-down or water-on cycle. Let me know.

On 2020-07-06 by Morgan H

I keep loosing prime from my well water. I can use my water for about 15min until I lose everything. I can go down into basement flip switch on pump and get my pressure back instantly for the same duration of time. I’ll lose water if I do a load of laundry and shower within the same hour.

I can water about 10 plants in my garden by hand until I lose water. They have replaces switch and water tank in basement and the problem has only gotten worse.

On 2020-06-14 - by (mod) - pump loses prime

Larry

Let's first check the air pressure pre-charge level in the tank. If you turn the pump off and run water until water flow stops, you should see a pre-charge pressure that is 2 psi below the pressure-control switch cut-in pressure. Eg. a 30 psi cut-in means we want 28 psi pre-charge in the tank.

It's also possible that your pressure control switch is simply debris clogged and so not reliably turning on the pump; in that case I'd replace it.

On 2020-06-12 by Larry

My pump gets to 50# of pressure and if used frequently after kicks back on at 30#.

But if not used for one hour plus the pump kicks on but will not pick up prime unless I drain the tank to zero. Then it will kick in and pump up to 50 # again. HELP! What is the fix?

On 2020-02-21 - by (mod) - jet pump runs too long

Keri

I'm concerned that repeatedly running the well dry may also have run the pump dry, damaging a bearing or impeller and thus leaving the pump unable to draw water.

Running the pump "dry" can indeed be caused by loss of pump prime.

But the fact that you cannot fill the well line during priming, even with a garden hose, suggests that the foot valve has failed and stuck open or there's a leak in well piping or the well is simply run down totally.

Wait a few hours to give the well time to recover, then try again.

On 2020-02-21 by Keri

I have a jet pump well that is 30 yrs old. My mother has always had an issue letting something run too long and running us out of water. We're well versed in priming our well by now. So this time she forgot to flip the breaker off before unscrewing the plug and a gizer of course came out of the pipe.

Now I'm trying to prime the line and after 30 jugs of water amd eventually jist running a hose up to it, the line WILL NOT fill up. I'm about to just pull the 50 ft of line out and check it or replace the foot valve. I just wanted an opinion if I'm right in thinking the foot valve is completely broken or if I've got a cracked line.

On 2019-12-05 - by (mod) - water pressure falls off to a trickle

That sounds to me as if the pump's draw rate exceeds the well flow rate - the rate at which water enters the well.

That's not a pump priming problem it's a well problem.

On 2019-12-05 by Anonymous

my shallow well pump starts out with a lot of water pressure and slowly loses pressure to a trickle. then pressure builds up and I lose it again while filling water tanks for my animals. once I shut the valve, it takes a while to build pressure again. it also spits air .

On 2019-04-06 6 - by (mod) - How can I increase water pressure?

Dave

Poor water pressure isn't a pump priming problem, it's a delivery problem or a well flow rate problem.

Our best suggestions are in the ARTICLE INDEX where you will find our article titled WATER PRESSURE IMPROVEMENT

Please take a look and let me know if you have any questions

On 2019-04-05 by Dave

How can I increase water pressure l have a single line pump at the top of the well , l never really had strong pressure even after they installed new pump years ago

On 2019-03-29 - by (mod) - my pump will not prime

Dawn please see the prime-loss cause diagnosis in the article above.

Or to prime the pump, see

WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE https://inspectapedia.com/water/Prime_The_Well_Pump.php

On 2019-03-14 by Dawn Lyman

It will not prime

...

Continue reading at PRIME the PUMP using a GARDEN HOSE or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see PUMP PRIME, REPEATED LOSS FAQs - questions & answers posted originally at the end of this article on why pump systems lose prime repeatedly.

Or see these

Recommended Articles

• FOOT VALVES
• WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES
• WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS
• WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE
  • PRIME the PUMP using a GARDEN HOSE
  • PRIME THE PUMP BY PRIMING PLUG OPENING
  • PUMP PRIME, REPEATED LOSS

Suggested citation for this web page

PUMP PRIME, REPEATED LOSS at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

Or see this

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS

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