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Intermittent or no-reason water pump runs, FAQs:

Questions & answers on how to diagnose, find and fix the cause of intermittent or irregular well pump cycling on and off: if the well pump seems to run for no reason or when no water is being consumed.

This article series explains how to diagnose & repair water pump intermittent cycling - the water pump comes on when no water is being run in the building. Intermittent water pump cycling means that the water pump comes on for no apparent reason.

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Intermittent / Unexplained Water Pump Cycling Questions & Answers

Questions & answers about unexplained water pump cycling on and off, posted originally

at WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING - topic home.

Please check out the diagnostic and repair advice given there.

Article Index

Summing up intermittent pump operation compared with short cycling well pumps

  1. Intermittent pump operation:

     If a pump is running for no apparent reason and we're not running water in the building (or we think we're not running water there), then I call this WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING.

    The time between pump-on cycles will depend on how fast water is leaving the system and might be anywhere from "pump won't stop running at all" (though other problems can cause that too) to "pump runs once in the middle of the night".
  2. Short Cycling pumps: 

    Very short pump-on cycles followed by short pump-off cycles is caused by a water-logged pressure tank (lost air charge) combined with a rapid use of water in the building or by a significant water piping leak somewhere.

    See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING. These cycles are typically under 30 seconds.
  3. Chattering pumps: 

    Extremely-short pump on/off cycling or pump chattering is usually caused by a blockage at the pump or water system output, like a clogged debris filter. This on-off cycling rate will typically be a second or less.
  4. Continuous pump operation:

    if the pump won't stop running the cause may be simply a high water usage rate that exceeds the pump or well's capacity to deliver water or there may be a leak or a bad control.

    See WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING

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Leaks Inside the Pump Cause Intermittent Pump Cycling

How would one know if the water pump jet assembly needs replacement as a cause of intermittent pump cycling on and off?

Thank you for your informative website.

Can you tell me how one would know if the jet assembly ( deep well, two pipes) needed replacing?

The pump was functional prior to service call, delivering water, but was running 2 to 4 min (randomly with no taps open) a few times a day. Also, a hissing sound had begun coming from the well casing, which prompted my call for service.

I called a plumbing service to check it, as I had had a problem 14 years prior, with pump running continuous. That was found to be a broken nylon fitting on the bottom outlet of the jet assembly.

The plumber at that time simply replaced the broken fitting, but cautioned me that the other fitting on the top was still the old nylon, so if a similar problem occurred in the future, look there first. At that time, 2008, we replaced the entire pump as well.

A plumbing service pulled the pipes, and it was clear the nylon fitting on top of the jet assembly was cracked. The plumber stated, " this part, (indicated the jet assembly) is all broken up, you need a new one." I could easily see the crack in the nylon fitting. I agreed to let him replace the assembly, assuming he knew what he was doing.

He had trouble getting the pipes back into the well, then was unable to prime the pump, (didn't t know how) so I showed him. Once primed, (I didnt watch him priming it, so dont know how that went) the pump made bad sounds, delivered no water, so he ended up pulling the pipes again. He worked for 2 hours under a tent, something to do with the pit valve, I am guessing; based on the location where he set up the tent, and knowing the length of the pipes.

My question is, did I even need the 250$ jet assembly? How would you know if that part were bad? It seems likely the crack in the nylon fitting was causing the hissing, though, as stated, the pump was delivering water, just running intermittently, as stated above.

It appeared to me that the Plumber was inexperienced. The company waited nearly 3 weeks to decide how to bill me, then hit me with a 1200$ bill. My pump acts no different today than before he came, except there is no hissing. Still intermittent running, but I think with less frequency. I do note a worsening slow leak at the washer hook up, which could account for that. A leaking toilet valve was present prior to all this, but that was addressed before they came, so, I thought before winter came, I should have the well pipes checked.

I am currently battling with a virus, can't get much done, haven't fixed the washer leak yet, so I can't yet rule that out as a cause for the intermittent running.

I don't mind paying for necessary services and parts, but don't want to pay for an inexperienced plumbers mistakes.

I am a retired person on disability, with limited resources. Before I agree to a fee and pay these people, I am hoping to have a better understanding of what went on.

Also, since that work was done, I am getting a lot of leaf debris in the aerators on all taps, At first it was enough stop the tap altogether. Hoping it didn't, doesn't affect my boiler.

Thank you, any information you can provide is greatly appreciated. On 2022-11-16 by Anonymous by private email (mod)

by InspectApedia (Editor) -

@Anonymous by private email,

What a lot of trouble! Sorry for all that.

I can't reliably diagnose this problem by text.

I'd have to see not only the parts involved, but I'd also probably find more needed information about the well and installation if I were on-site.

But in general, IF the pump was run dry for very long, that can damage an impeller or pump bearing.

If the pump runs intermittently when you're not using water, Please first see the diagnostics above on this page.

About the cracked part that was replaced: that sounds perfectly-correct to have done.

I suspect that because you said the cracked part in the pump explained intermittent pump cycling on and off, that it was a check valve the prevented water leakage back out of the pump and down into the well.

We're left having to trust the honesty of the plumber about replacing other parts.

Certainly it's fair to ask, politely, "Can you show me the damage or help me understand why this (other) part needs replacement?"

Keep in mind that for an older well and pump system, often the plumber will replace ALL doubtful parts rather than face the cost of having to pull the well and foot valve and jet and tailpiece all over again later when those parts fail - having suffered a customer who's ticked off and demands "Why didn't you replace those the first time?"

But a pump that runs "on its own" every 2-4 minutes "with no taps open" certainly needs to be fixed to protect the pump from failure, the well from running dry, and the septic drainfield from flooding damage.

Hissing from the well casing MIGHT be air entering the well through a vent as water level drops in the well.

About the parts of your jet pump for a two-line system, see:

WATER PUMP, TWO LINE JET

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Check Valve Leaks At the Pump or In the Well Cause Intermittent Pump Cycling

Leaky leather cup seals at well using Pentair Sta-Rite SLE-L pump Lead to Intermittent Pump Cycling

I have a deep well pump (Pentair Sta-riteSLE-L). It has a suction and drive pipe at the pump and converts to a single pipe at the well head.

At the bottom of the well, the single pipe has leather cup seals vs a foot valve. I have intermittent cycling on and off at about 5 times an hour with no water running (supplies water to irrigation system).

My pump installer said this is normal with leather cup seals. Is this accurate? He also replaced the ball valve that turned water off/on to the irrigation system with with an electronic valve. Could this be a possible point of leakage?

Lastly, when I last primed the pump, I followed the instructions to set the control valve (see photo). I had the control valve on the pump opened about half way. He said that the control valve should be completely open. Is this correct?

He then raised the cut on/off from 40/60 to about 45/65 and didn’t add pressure to the pressure tank (bladder type).

Could this also be why I’m having intermittent cycling? Thank you! - On 2021-05-21 by Anonymous / Marc

by (mod) - How to find the leak causing periodic pump cycling

@Marc,

Yes, if a leather cup seal is allowing water to drain back into the well from the pressure tank that could cause intermittent well pump cycling.

Intermittent cycling such as you have described will be probably caused by one of the problems listed above on this page.

They have in common is water leaking headed back into the well or out somewhere that drops pressure in the system overtime try adding a ball valve or gate valve and if that doesn't stop the leak you may need to replace those leather seals.

Really? "leather cup seals" ? I'd be grateful for some details you might ask your plumber about what and where those are found; I don't find leather seals in use in modern deep wells using a jet pump.

While your plumber was probably being quite frank, saying "they all do that" isn't necessarily accurate nor would I live with a water pump that just ran intermittently " for no reason".

I'd find and fix the leak.

In your photo (shown above) your pump is set up as a two-line jet pump capable of pumping from a deep well, using (usually) a foot valve and venturi at the water-pick-up end of the well piping. That's not a "suction" set-up. A "suction" system would be a one-line jet pump capable of lifting water from depths no greater than 27 ft.

Take a look at our description of your type of Sta-Rite water pump found in

WATER PUMP & TANK I&O & REPAIR MANUALS

and

WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH MANUALS for pump controls.

Below:

How to find the Optimum setting of the Control Valve on a Pentair Sta-Rite SLE-L water pump

How to set the control valve on a StaRite Pentair water pump - cited & discussed at InspectApedia.com

Incidentally the deep well submersible schematic that you posted (just below), presumably from your Sta-Rite pump manual, do not describe the above-ground two-line jet pump in your photo where we see the blue jet pump, white PVC pipes operating the well (from the pump face) and a third white PVC water pipe bearing the electronic shutoff valve you mention, apparently controlling water flow out of the system.

Deep well submersible pump StaRite details (C) InspectApdia.com Anon

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Adding Check Valves or Cycle Stop Valves to Stop Intermittent Pump Cycling

We fixed intermittent well pump cycling by adding Cycle Stop Valves at the pump

After suffering cycling. I started by putting a stop valve on both sides of the pump. they're cheap to buy. first close outlet, if still cycling close inlet. If cycling continues the fault is with the pump or switching system.

After that, follow whichever pipework brings on the cycling, if on the house end, look for stop valves in the system, turn them off starting with the one furthest from the supply and work your way back checking each time for a cure. If there are no valves, either install some or cut the pipe and fix an end stop (having a connector to put in afterwards) Hopefully you will find the fault.

If on the inlet, leaks in the pipe work tend to give air visible in a clear inlet filter just before the pump. After that I'm afraid well pumps are out with my expertise!
I hope this helps On 2022-11-03 by George

by InspectApedia (Editor) - it's often best to fix the cause of a problem before adding on more devices

@George,

I like cycle stop valves, too, George, but it is a fundamental axiom of plumbing repair that it's usually best to diagnose and fix the cause of a problem than to add-on more devices to try to make it go away.

Take a look at the causes of water pump short cycling given above on this page as that may be useful.

Installing a check valve on the well piping stopped my intermittent pump cycling problem

My water pump (old submersible) was recycling every 8 minutes (pressure tank is relatively new) with no obvious fixture leakage in the house, I decided to install a $27 check valve on the in-coming line ahead or the pressure tank and pressure switch. Problem solved! On 2022-08-27 by Myron Gary Peebles

by InspectApedia-911 (mod) -

@Myron Gary Peebles,

Good move. Sounds like there is a leaky check valve or pipe on the well side of your new check valve.

Watch for air discharge at plumbing fixtures.

...

Sitework May Damage Well Lines Leading to Intermittent Well Pump Cycling

Well pump runs intermittent cycles after we upgraded our electrical panel

We recently upgraded my electric panel from 100 to 200 amp. Now that i have power turned back on my sub/pump(drilled well) has been running nonstop intermittent cycles.1st noticed it when showering,lost all pressure. turned the shower off for bout 5 seconds then back on and had full pressure again.

My thoughts were that while the power was off (bout 8 hrs)i had lost my prime even though my gauges were still reading 45.I drained my tank charged it to 28lbs for my 30/50 switch just to eliminate 1 of the potential problems, and im holding the same charge of 45(guessing the switch was adjusted prevoiusly for that reading).

when the pump cycles off i noticed i wasnt hearing the audible sound of the contacts releasing. took the cap of the p/switch and checked. the pump is turning off without the contacts realesing. the contacts are still mobile and dont look bad .

other possibility is when the electric company came . they did back up bout ten feet from tire to well casing not sure if my line got squished? i dont think so because they were on the other side of the well.does the pipeing go from well direct to house? any thoughts would be helpfull (July 8, 2014) chris

Reply: look for well pipe damage caused during electrical work

Chris

We would not expect an electrical panel upgrade to impact the operation of a well pump unless at the same time someone messed with the pump wiring & controls.

Losing prime, if you regain it, won't lead to intermittent cycling. Rather losing prime leads to the pump running continuously without delivering water (which can damage the pump).

I'd dig up that squashed well piping and look for a leak there. That could cause pressure drop and pump cycling.

...

Shared Well Piping Leaks Can Cause Intermittent Pump Cycling

Trouble with pump running for no reason on water line shared with neighbours

I had always had issues with my well pump. 5yrs ago I replaced the whole line from my home to the well and even replaced the pump. There is a split on the line to my neighbours but that had always been there and the previous home owners never had an issue.

My pump went from turn on (with no water running) every few minutes to almost every 30 secs. It turns on even if when the water is off to the rest of the house (July 12, 2014) Ashlee

Reply:

Ashlee there may be a leak in the well piping or in your neighbours well piping combined with a bad check valve

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