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Well and pump and pressure tank sketch (C) InspectAPedia Intermittent Water Pump Cycling FAQs 2
Q&A on why a pump runs for no reason

  • POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about diagnosing and correcting intermittent well pump cycling on and off when no water is being used in the building

Intermittent water pump cycling on and off, FAQs #2

Additional questions & answers on how to diagnose, find and fix the cause of intermittent or irregular well pump cycling on and off: if the well pump seems to run for no reason or when no water is being consumed.

This article series explains how to diagnose & repair water pump intermittent cycling - the water pump comes on when no water is being run in the building. Intermittent water pump cycling means that the water pump comes on for no apparent reason.

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Unexplained Water Pump Cycling Q&A #2

Photograph of a clogged water filterThese older questions & answers about unexplained water pump cycling on and off, posted originally at WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING - topic home. Be sure to review the causes and cures discussed in that article

On 2013-04-04 by (mod) - most-common causes of pump random cycling & loss of prime

Sounds right. A leaky check valve or foot valve and less often a leak in well piping are the most common causes a water pump cycling on for no apparent reason (you're not running water in the building), and also are common causes of loss of pump prime following a power outage.

On 2013-04-04 by Intermitten pump cycling, mulitp

We have a shallow well pump and tank in the basement. We have noticed the water pump coming on with no water demand. Today, we replaced the preasure switch for the second time in 6 months.

After replacing the preasure switch, the pump will power on by no water flow follows. After reading some of the articals, I suspect a bad foot or control valve, or even leaky well piping.

Does this sound like the most likely situation?

Thank You for your comments,
Carrie

On 2013-01-05 by colm the plumber - a pump on a fishing boat

a pump on a fishing boat for ice recently had an expansion vessel replaced it is a white potable type 20 ltrs max working pressure 10 bar factory precharge 1.9 bar after it was fitted it was switching on an off ,

we increased pressure to 35 psi and pump stopped cycling , now after a tap is used it cycles for approx 2 min on and off and then stops and hold the pressure at 4 bar , any ideas
thanks
colm

On 2012-10-04 by Kristen

will do - thank you

On 2012-10-04 by (mod) - Check for debris clogging at both the pressure gauge and pressure control switch.

Kristen

Check for debris clogging at both the pressure gauge and pressure control switch. Thats what your description suggests.

On 2012-10-04 by Kristen - pump that never stops running - If we never call for water then the pressure stays up at 40psi the whole day.

I have a pump that never stops running - we have looked everywhere for a leak.

We turn off the relay switch once the pressure tank has full pressure, and then the water will continue to flow from the pipes without the pump all day until all of the pressure has been exhausted in the pressure tank.

If we never call for water then the pressure stays up at 40psi the whole day. Could this be a bad relay switch?

Could there be some other issue? We have a gravity fed cistern and the pump that sits atop the pressure tank "pulls" water from the cistern and pushes the water to all the pipes in the house (the pump and pressure tank sit beside the cistern). Thank you for your help.

On 2012-09-08 by (mod) - period pump cycling is not to address contaminants

Anthony,

No the system would not be designed to run the pump every few hours as a means of bacteria control. Rather there is water running somewhere, such as a running toilet that is not so obvious,nor a leaky foot valve, check valve, or well piping.

On 2012-09-08 by (mod) - how to track down a leaky foot valve,

Allen,

To track down a leaky foot valve, turn off water into the house,

then watch for a drop in water preside at the water pump/tank when the system is off

Dropping pressure indicates a leaky check valve, leaky foot valve, or a leak in the well piping itself, between house and well..

On 2012-09-02 by Allen - What is the process for checking a foot valve for leaks?

What is the process for checking a foot valve for leaks? Thanks

On 2012-09-08 by (mod) - if a pressure tank has a sticky internal bladder

On occasion if a pressure tank has a sticky internal bladder or a damaged bladder the system may also be unable to push water into or draw water out of the tank, also giving improper pump om/off behavior.

I should add tht similar debris clogging can make the water pressure gauge read incorrectly and act oddly too, as he gauge also has a small pressure sensing opening that can become debris or rust clogged.

On 2012-09-08 by (mod) - water supply contains rust or debris that is clogging the pressure switch sensor

Lisa, it sounds as if your water supply contains rust or debris that is clogging the pressure switch sensor or clogging the sensor line conducting pressure to the switch. A cogged water filter between pump and house can have a similar effect.

Water inside that tube bringing pressure to the bottom og the pressure control switch is normal.

On 2012-09-08 10 by Lisa

Well I replaced the pressure gauge, and the pressure switch. I rechecked the air in the empty tank - it is holding at 28 lbs. The new pressure switch is a 20/40 adjustable, but no matter how we adjust it, the pump kicks on well below 30 and kicks off almost immediately.

It pumps water but then shuts off, even if we have something (faucet, sink) running open. The gauge drops to 0 and stays there for a little while before the pressure switch kicks the pump on again. Then it wont go up past 32 before the pump shuts off again.

The tank is holding water when everything is closed - no seep leak showing, and when we removed the pressure gauge and at a different time the pressure switch, there was water in the line. What is causing this? How do we fix it?

When our water pressure would slow down or completely stop for a few seconds to a few minutes during baths, washing machine fill, etc., it was caused by a stopped up nipple below the pressure switch.

We replaced it, and the water psi came back to normal. We had replaced the pump and box about a year ago, and the last problem we had was as above.

Now the pump comes on, fills the tank (runs for a longer period of time than the intermittent run), shuts off, then after just a few minutes, kicks back on, runs just a couple of seconds and kicks back off. It just started this. We checked the air in the tank last night, it was about 10 lbs low.

We added air to empty tank. It did not fix the problem. I used canned air to blow any debris out of the pressure switch and the controlbox, and that did not fix the problem. I noticed a greasy looking substance inside the pressure switch while blowing it out. We are going to replace the presuure switch tonight.

We also noticed that the tank is now sitting at an angle - not level. We are going to check this out too soon.

Someone had been messing around because the pressure switch cap was NOT locked on (screwed down) like we had left it. The tank is getting old, so we need to check it for leaks and need for replacement. The pressure gauge needs replacing as it is rusted. If all that doesn't fix it, then I guess we pull the well...

On 2012-08-24 00:21:50.261102 by Shaun

Hi all,

I'm having a bit of trouble tracking down a pressure tank loss of pressure and intermittent cycle problem.

The initial problem here is that my pressure tank will fill to its cut off of 50 psi and then without using any water over the course of 2 maybe 3 hours the pressure will slowly drop to the cut in of 30 psi.

I have pex water pipe running through the home and have inspected the connections and there are no leaks. The pressure tank is not leaking. Both toilets seem to be holding their water.

I know my main tub has a very slow drip leak (probably wouldnt fill a 1L) in a day..and everything else in the house that is connected to use water seems to be tight and dry. I also have a water softener and iron filter tanks and they dont appear to be leaking externally

I checked my pressure tank air level and precharged it should be 28psi but was around 20psi..so i added air up till around the 27 to 28 psi indicator.

If I allow the pressure tank to fill up to its cut off of 50psi then turn the valve off to allow water to the house the tank will hold 50 psi without decreasing.

The majority of water lines in my home are exposed in the basement and nothing appears to be leaking from behind any wall into the basement so im stuck there.

The only recent thing of lately is that I did have a plumber come and replace a faulty pressure tank control switch that was leaking. He just brought another one to install in place of the faulty one....could this be a source of problem? it was brand new.???

Sorry for the length of this post I'm just not sure what else to suspect and may have to call someone in to check it out.

P.S. after adding air to the pressure tank I have the unpleasant odor of iron in my cold water since i added air and refilled the tank.

Yuck

On 2012-08-13 by (mod) -

Anthony, so you found your way tothe right page. I'm not familiar with a residential water pump that would be arbitrarily programmed to come on for no reason but a timer. No. More likely there is a leak somewhere or water running somewhere or a bad check valve or foot valve.

CHeck out the diagnostic procedures at WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING. Keep me posted.

On 2012-08-13 by Anthony - water feed pump in my apartment runs ever few hours without any water been drawn down by taps

The water feed pump in my apartment runs ever few hours without any water been drawn down by taps etc. is the pump programmed to operate every few hours to cycle water in store tank to prevent build up of bacteria or is there a leak in system?

On 2012-07-20 5 by (mod) -

Dawn, the problem that is causing a well pump to cycle on and off every 5 minutes might be any of the sources we list in WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING

A first step to diagnose what's going on is to turn off all water into the building to see if the cycling continues. If so then look from the tank and pump and controls backwards to the well and well piping and check valves/foot valve.

On 2012-07-19 06:31:27.759524 by Dawn

If Intermittent pump cycling is going on/off every 5 minutes what might be the problem? Could a small leak in a supply line to the home or under the home cause the intermittent cycle every 5 minutes ? So, my pressure tank has a bladder, the valve at the top has air coming out of it, yet, the pump will run for 5 minutes, fill the pressure tank and within 7 minutes the pump is kicking on again. Does that mean the entire pressure tank is draining out ? Is the water going back into the well ? and if there is a leak wouldn't that be a significant one ?

On 2012-06-27 02:51:22.076799 by (mod) -

Dave the article WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING suggests explanations, I'd start there. If water intonthe building is shut off and the pump continues to cycle I suspect a well piping leak or a bad foot valve

On 2012-06-24 22:17:06.594133 by Dave

well goes on every 3 minintes pressure goes up to 40 and goes off it drops down to 20 and the pump goes back on

On 2012-06-10 17:20:06.644911 by Anonymous

How do I fix an above ground water pump that struggling to pump?
(

On 2012-05-06 15:17:07.943670 by Todd

I have an above ground pump that is used for my in-ground sprinklers and a few water spickets around the house.

I woke up the other day to find the pump running for no apparent reason, on a non watering day, and when I went out to check it I noticed it was hot and no water was running to the sprinkler heads?

I had installed a check valve several years ago to help keep the prime, and a valve to aid in self priming if need be. When I opened the valve the water came out steaming hot. I quickly unplugged the power to the pump, and let it cool down.

The PVC has swollen and the joints now leak so I know I will have to replace them (with brass) but I don't know if the pump was damaged and I don't know how to figure out what caused the pump to come on in the first place?
Thanks for any suggestions,
Todd

On 2012-04-24 by (mod) - 6 likely explanations and cures for a pump that seems to come on for no reason

Shane, the article WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING has 6 likely explanations and cures for a pump that seems to come on for no reason - please check them out. But from what you say, it sounds like either a bad check valve on or near the pump, or a bad foot valve in the well. Let us know what you find, it will help others.

On 2012-04-24 20:51:15.233689 by shane

My pump goes off and on and the water is not on i looked for leaks but there is none. I went out to the pump and when the pump cycles off the water seems to be running back down the pipes. Anyone have any suggestions

On 2012-04-20 05:33:27.333361 by (mod) - 152' well that keeps losing pressure,

Jeff I suggest taking a look at the diagnostics at WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING (in the INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES found at the end of this discussion) .

On 2012-04-17 by jeff S

I have a 152' well that keeps losing pressure, I have to charging tanks which seem to working fine. The pump engages and the guages show approxz 60#s then I can watch it drop until about 20-30#'s and the pump rengages. I cant find any water running or leakes in the system. Where do I start.

On 2012-03-27 by Pam Kirkwood

If you remove the well cap seal cover on our well, and stand there every few minutes you can hear what sounds like the pump cycling on. It only lasts for a few seconds. Then water comes flowing in a small stream from the small pipe that 90's into the larger pipe the well cap goes on

The electrical wiring is inside the small pipe and goes inside to larger pipe and down the well

Is water supposed to be coming out of this small pipe and should the pump be cycling every few minutes? (no water that we know of is ruuning at the time). Have great water flow in the house. Just want to make sure this is not something serious.

On 2012-03-18 0 by lost of pressure

i am haven the same problem i change pressure switch and pressure tank seem to me that well pump is straining to hit pressure was thinkin of changen pump cause its a 1991 and now im thinkin it might be foot valve what should i change next?

On 2012-01-27 by Linda

what causes a pump to shut off, like no power. If you hit the little box attach to the pump it comes back on.

On 2012-01-04 by Mike from Va

My house has an intermittent well pump cycling of about every 40 minutes or so. I have checked for leaking toilets, faucets, pipes and still have not found the cause.

I closed the valve where my water supply comes into the house in order to test to see if the leak is between the well and house, or in house somewhere. The well does not cycle when the water to the house has been shut off.

Thus, I would assume the leak is inside the house. I have shut the pump off at the breaker when I am leaving for more that a couple days. Upon turning it back on, I find sediment in the lines.

The water tank looks to be in good condition and I do not notice a pressure drop on the tank guage. What is my next step in determining the location of the water or air leak? Thanks for the help.

On 2011-12-25 by (mod) - causes of intermittent well pump cycling do NOT require that the system loses prime.

Phil, the causes of intermittent well pump cycling we discuss here do NOT require that the system loses prime. Not at all. More likely the slow leak back into the well from a bad foot valve, or from a well piping leak, or from water running in the building resulting in a pressure drop cause the pump to turn on often enough that in fact it never loses prime - except when there is a power outage.

If you're sure it's a good foot valve I'd look for another leak. Turn off water into the house and watch for a pressure drop. If it occurs, the problem is in well piping or at the water tank. If not, there may be a running toilet in the house or something like that.

On 2011-12-22 by Phil

I have a intermittent cycling with my shallow-well jet pump, however I am not losing prime. I have been turning the pump off when I don't need water (to keep from burning the pump out) for as long as 10 hours and still haven't lost prime. The foot valve was replaced recently as I did lose prime during a power outage a couple of months ago.

Any ideas of the source of the problem? I can't see how the problem could be due to a faulty foot valve or leak in the piping when I don't lose prime.

On 2011-12-11 by Roger in Ocala Fl

When I shut the power to the well the pressure drops down to zero in about 1 1/2 min.

Regarding my first post below. I have checked all the water spickets around the house. There are NO leaks present. (I state leaks present, there are none)

Also wanted to state that I have a filter next to the bladder. The filter is full of small iron deposits and clay like mud water. The water that comes in the house does not look dirty. When we use the washing machine you can hear the pipes shake violently. No other areas in the house cause any other pipes to shake.

Hello, I need help please. I have a submersible pump about 65 feet into the ground. My pump keeps on cycling on and off inbetween 65lbs and 45lbs every 30 seconds to 1 min. I have checked all water spickets around the outside of the house.

There are leaks present. I checked inside and found no signs of leaks. I also went under the house and found no signs of leakage. When we first purchased the house 7 years ago we had Hot water coming out of the outside spickets

, I called a well company and they came out and pulled the pipes up to find a hole just above the pipe that made the pump run and never shut off. At that time they replaced the bottom 20 feet of pipe. Can anyone guess as to what is happening now?

I really cant afford to get ripped off. Please help. Is there anything I could do on my own?

On 2011-12-10 0 by jeff

having problems with two seperate pumps and their respective pressure switches "clicking" when pressure reaches turn off of 50 psi. Tried replacing pressure switch and the new square D switch is doing the same thing. What Am I Missing?

On 2011-12-05 by Shane

What do you do if it comes on when water is flowing into the house but when u turn off the water it's stops and don't come back on when u want to use the water again.

On 2011-12-04 by Maria Jansson

I live in an old department bloc in Cairo, Egypt. Every 30 seconds, the water pump in the building (apx 5-6 stores high) will start. It will work with a noise that permeats the whole building for about 20-25 seconds and then stop for another 25-33 seconds. It is of course extremely annoying. I havent talked to the landlord yet, I just moved in, and my room mates have gotten used to the noise. But I think there is obviously something wrong with it.

What could it be and how can I check that? First - the water pressure is actually quite good. We have good water pressure in the kitchen and toilet taps even though the shower is a bit meak. We live on the 2nd floor (1 stair up).
I guess I first have to look for leaks - but at the same time - the regularity with which the pump works makes me doubt that a leak i the problem. Or the leak has to be substanial and constant.

Air leak on the water tank? Is that possible?
Are there any switches or meters on the pump that could be badly adjusted? Like ingoing pressure or whatever (on this particular issue I understand very little)
Could there be some part of the pump that nead to be changed?
Basically - what could there be?
I would be so grateful for any advice.

On 2011-11-24 by (mod) - High levels of any particulate debris in the water supply can and will quickly clog

Abbie I'm not sure I've got the full picture of your installation and I certainly am not sure we have an accurate picture of just what problem substances are in your water supply, but it sounds as if you have a high level of sediment or perhaps even clay (you mention "mud") in your water pressure tank.

High levels of any particulate debris in the water supply can and will quickly clog treatment equipment, piping, pressure control switch sensor ports, even piping and water pressure tanks and on occasion dangerously clog pressure relief valves in the plumbing system.

You might want a more comprehensive water test that describes just what problems need to be corrected in your water supply. Then the proper choices of treatment equipment as well as the order of treatment can be properly chosen and installed. For example, you may need a sediment filter installed ahead of all other system components.

On 2011-11-24 10:01:44.695450 by Abbie McCaffity

Hi, I have been in experiencing some major problems with my water. I had unusually high levels of iron and other minerals in my water. I purchased a Master water system. The following items are listed on my receipt (Neut/Softener, Water heater Conditioners, Multimedia filter, Resup kit (feeder & 1 qt).

This seemed to help finally my water was clear. Within a few months I noticed that the water began to look rusty again. The gentleman that installed the equipment later admitted that he didn't have any experience with this type of installation.

Another gentleman came out and he indicated that the equipment was not installed properly. He said that the media filter needed to be rebedded. He did that for me and immediately we noticed a loss of water pressure.

The water will run powerfully initially and then within seconds it diminishes to a trickle until it cuts off. We were told that the switch needed to be replaced so we did that. Then we were told to check the air pressure, we added air. We called someone else and he advised us that we needed to replace the submersible water tank

There was a lot of mud so we were advised to cut off about 10 ft of the pipe so we did that. The water seemed to be working fine for hours but now it is doing the same thing. It sounds as if water is being drained and it sounds like it is coming from the master equipment but they say it is not. Please help. Let me know if you need additional information.

On 2011-11-23 by (mod) -

Mr. Albertelli:

If the pump is trying to run when the pressure is dropping there may be a problem with the pressure control switch and its pressure sensor. If the pump motor is not trying to run but the pump is vibrating I suspect a failing internal check valve in the pump.

On 2011-11-23 by (mod) -

Rich, if the water pressure is dropping there is almost certainly a leak somewhere. Turn off water into the building at the water pressure tank. If pressure still drops the problem is between the pressure tank and the well piping down at the bottom of the well. If pressure does not drop, then the problem is a leak or slow running toilet etc inside the building.

On 2011-11-21 by Rich Swaim

I have my well hooked up to the outside faucets only and when all faucets are shut off the tank continues to slowly lose pressure. I have inspected all of the piping and connections and found no evidence of a leak. Sometimes the presuure loss is quick(5-10 miutes) and other times it may take an hour. I have the old steel tank not a bladder tank. I have checked for air leaks on the tank and found none. Am I looking at going out side and into the well for a fix?$$$$$

On 2011-11-13 by G. Albertelli

My well pump (above ground) and connected to my 600' artesian well just began to have the following problem. The pump achieves cutoff pressure, stops, vibrates violently while the pressure is dropping, and then starts again. If left alone, I believe that it would continue this cycle until self-destruction. Any ideas?

On 2011-10-01 by (mod) -

Tom, sounds as if the answer to your question is yes. If water is draining back from the pressure tank into the well piping there is a well piping leak or a bad check valve or foot valve.

More obscure: if the well pump is submersible (in the well) and your pressure tank is a steel non-bladder type, there could also be a leak not in the well piping itself but in an air vent valve installed on well piping inside the well. Such air vents were used on older systems with bladderless pressure tanks as a means of adding air to the pressure tank at each pump cycle.

On 2011-10-01 by Tom Wilson

I forgot to mention that I have good water pressure. No obvious issues other than the pump cycling on and off for no apparent reason.

It appears as if I have intermittent water pump cycling. It's turning on about every 30 seconds, running for about 10 seconds and turning off. I don't appear to have any water leaks in the house at all and I checked all the piping in the crawl space today and found nothing.

I turned the power off to the pump/tank and all the water drained backward to "somewhere". Do I have a well problem perhaps or a problem in a line between well and house?

On 2011-09-12 by (mod) -

Laura your pump sounds as if it's short cycling - that's a water tank problem. But the pressure drop may be a piping or foot valve leak

On 2011-09-12 by (mod) - don't let a leaky well pipe mislead you into drilling a new well needlessly

I suppose it's true that if you drill a new well, all of the well piping would be replaced as part of that job.

And so if the actual problem is a leak oin the present well piping, as a byproduct of the new well the leak would get fixed too.

I'd ask what other concerns s/he saw led to the new well recommendation

On 2011-09-11 by Laura - ell guy I talked to said the bladder tank is shot

The well guy just tole me our water tank is a sealed tank so does not have a bladder and that most likely it is a leak in the well or piping and suggested we get a new well. Think we should get a second opinion.

My water pump will cycle every 6-8 minutes when the pressure gauge drops bellow 48 psi. It will take 6-8 seconds the pressure up to 62 psi, this then starts all over again. I checked to see how much air was in the bladder with a tire gauge and water came out.

The well guy I talked to said the bladder tank is shot and needs to be replaces but there might be something else going on because the pressure drops then pump turns on. What is our next step to take?

On 2011-09-11 by (mod) - My well pump goes on with no water use but not consistantly

Doug, a check valve or foot valve may leak intermittently, perhaps depending on just how the valve seats from usage cycle to cycle,or sue to occasional dirt.

Also a sticky water pressure gauge can complicate diagnosis

If pressure is dropping and you turn off water at the main valve into the building, and if the pressure drop stops, that usually means you had water running in the building. If it does not stop falling you probbly have a bad check valve or a well piping leak.

On 2011-09-10 by Doug

If you have a well pipe leak or a bad foot valve, would you slowly loose pressure all the time?

My well pump goes on with no water use but not consistantly. There are times that the pressure on the gauge appears steady and other times when it very slowly drops or it can drop quickly (all without water use)

On 2011-09-01 by (mod) - if you have NO water in the pressure tank then it's not working

Russ, if you have NO water in the pressure tank then it's not working - and needs to be repaired or replaced.

If a pump is turning on and off intermittently, the most likely explanation is that there is either water running somewhere or there is a piping leak. Perhaps one that you haven't found but that exists.

I could imagine a rare case of an odd failure of a pressure control switch but that's not where I'd start.

On 2011-08-20 04:37:47.390274 by Russ

My pump at the pond is intermittantly cycling. I have not found a leak anywhere. My footvalve is not leaking. I don't have water in y pressure tank. What do I check for next?

On 2011-07-08 by (mod) - on how to check for a leaky foot valve or leak in well piping,

Sam: on how to check for a leaky foot valve or leak in well piping, if you shut off all water going into the building from your water pressure tank just at the end of a pump run cycle

(so your system is at maximum pressure) then your pressure tank, pump, and well piping will either sit with static water pressure

(meaning there are no leaks in that part of the system), or the pressure gauge will (probably) show a slow drop in pressure in the water tank - meaning that there is a bad foot valve or a leak in well piping.

Loss of prime can also indicate a bad foot valve.

I said the gauge would "probably" show a drop in water pressure because gauges can be inaccurate; try tapping on the gauge if it is not showing a change in pressure.

On 2011-07-06 by (mod) - unreliable water pressure, flow, quantity

For unreliable water pressure and flow and quantity where you already have a booster pump and tank, if you still are not getting enough water, I suspect your pressure tank is too small; you need to store a larger volume of water to assure adequate supply when your municipal supply rate is too low or slow.

On 2011-07-02 by notonyourtintype

We've got a house with municipal water that's unreliable, ranging from zero to 25psi; lots of people here put in storage tanks to buffer past municipal water outages. Ours has a pressurizer system on it (pump, pressure tank, valves & switches etc.).

When pressure is above 25psi on pump gauge, things work pretty good. 19-25, seems like not enough pressure to turn on the on-demand boiler (7 liter tank inside it);showers cycle hot-cold-hot-cold, and kitchen sink cannot get enough flow on hot side only to turn on boiler.

No apparent leaks, no unexplained pressurize pump cycles when water doesn't seem to be flowing. Any ideas?

On 2011-06-19 by Sam

We have old farm house. Pressure tank been getting rusting. Few days ago, water nasty, pump running continuously. Put in new pressure tank and all piping around it. Water pressure good. Cleanliness seems to have increased.

Problem: pressure switch not cutting off...will adjust setting.

When turn off switch manually, tank pressure decreases immediatley, which would kick pump back on. Seems to be back filling. Have shut off valve between tank and well, when turn it, tank holds pressure. Something wrong with well? How would I check to see if foot or check valve is bad and what do I do?

Summing up intermittent pump operation compared with short cycling well pumps

  1. Intermittent pump operation: If a pump is running for no apparent reason and we're not running water in the building (or we think we're not running water there), then I call

    this WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING.

    The time between pump-on cycles will depend on how fast water is leaving the system and might be anywhere from "pump won't stop running at all" (though other problems can cause that too) to "pump runs once in the middle of the night".
  2. Short Cycling pumps: Very short pump-on cycles followed by short pump-off cycles is caused by a water-logged pressure tank (lost air charge) combined with a rapid use of water in the building or by a significant water piping leak somewhere.

    See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING. These cycles are typically under 30 seconds.
  3. Chattering pumps: Extremely-short pump on/off cycling or pump chattering is usually caused by a blockage at the pump or water system output, like a clogged debris filter. This on-off cycling rate will typically be a second or less.
  4. Continuous pump operation: if the pump won't stop running the cause may be simply a high water usage rate that exceeds the pump or well's capacity to deliver water or there may be a leak or a bad control.

    See WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING

...

Continue reading at WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING FAQs-3 - more questions & answers about intermittent pump operation

Or see these

Recommended Articles

Suggested citation for this web page

WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING FAQs-2 at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.


Or see this

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS

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