Well Water Won't Stop Running - FAQs

Index to all Q&A on fixing a pump that won't turn OFF

Water Pump Not Producing ANY Water Pressure

Water pump keeps running and gauge reads 0 psi - what do I do?

My pump is continuously running and pressure gage says 0. Can you help me On 2020-12-30 by Jessica Ellsworth

by (mod) - important safety warning

Jessica

Watch out: Turn off the pump immediately since running the pump dry can damage it.

If the problem is that your well has run out of water then waiting a few hours will diagnose that because you will probably be able to turn the pump on and have water again for a Time.

If you're living in a location that is currently very cold it's also possible that you were well pipe or another water pipe has frozen.

You read at WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING our step by step guide for diagnosing and fixing the problem you describe: a well pump that won't turn off.

Pump Can't Reach CUT-OFF Pressure Q&A

Jet pump can't pump over 35 psi and makes a swooshing surging sound

My jet pump fluctuates between 15-35psi and will not build any pressure higher than that. There is a swooshing or surging sound that continually occurs.

Location: it pulls water from a lake to supply the house. Lift is 40ft distance from foot valve to pump is 90ft.

Equipment:

Frand new 2 line version of the Franklin electric rm2 jet pump 220v

Brand new, Cage/screen, venturi and foot valve

I blocked in the discharge of the pump.

I primed the pump by using a auxiliary plug -in pump plumbed into the top suction line.

I then circulated fluid through and bled the water through a tee on the discharge line for about an hour.

When the pump is off it'll hold the pressure solid so I don't think there are any leaks on the suction line.

The pump continues to swoosh and surges though there's still air in it. - Anonymous by private email 2023/07/15

Abswer by InspectApedia Publisher (mod) - check for an air leak in pump or piping

Since the equipment is new I'm going to assume (for now) that the pump impeller is not damaged and that the pump is getting proper voltage.

So: It's possible that you've got an air leak in piping or at the pump itself.

Try tightening every pipe connection that's accessible and check to see if you can snug down any screws or bolts and fittings at the pump itself, especially at around the impeller assembly.

Well Pump can't get water pressure above 40 psi

I have a deep well pump that I had to replace the pressure switch and some pipes on. I purged the system of air. 30-50 pressure switch. It turns on when the pressure reaches 30 lbs but will not build more than 40 lbs so the.pump keeps running. On 2020-12-05 by Bob

Suggestions by (mod) -

Bob:

The explanation for why the pump won't shut off is probably one of those listed in the diagnostics at WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING

More diagnostic details if the Water Pump Won't Stop or Can't Reach CUT-OFF pressure

For submersible well pumps, make sure the pump is well below the water level;

For all pumps, check the voltage level and then the pump current draw against the pump's data specifications;
IF those don't indicate trouble and if you're confident there's no leak in well piping,
THEN you may then need to pull the pump to check for a clogged or damaged impeller.

Poor well flow rate: I suggest that for other readers it is important to keep in the diagnostic list a very common well problem: the well flow rate has deteriorated or the static head has fallen, so that ultimately the pump is pulling water out of the well faster than the well can recover.

That case splits into two cases:

1. A well pump protection system,

either an electrical device or a tailpiece in the well is coping with the low flow problem and protects the pump from running dry and burning up, but the result is the pump runs but little or no water is delivered.

2. There is no well pump protection system in place, the pump runs dry,

destroys an internal bearing or impeller, and after that even when the well recovers the pump can't reach cutoff pressure or stops delivering water entirely.

For those reasons it's important to keep in the checklist the need to review the water level in the well and the well's flow rate.

More things to Check:

Damaged pump impeller: can prevent a pump from developing adequate pressure

Another possible source of water pump problems when the pump won't stop: it may be unable to build pressure because of a damaged impeller or debris clogging in the impeller chamber.

Leaky Pump Seal or Gasket: an internal leak inside the pump or an air leak in the well piping or on the pump housing can prevent the pump from moving water up to the CUT-OFF pressure.

For Jet Pumps: a Clogged Venturi opening: can prevent enough water flow throug hthe venturi to develop full pump pressure.

Can a Leaky Pressure Tank Bladder Cause the Pump to Fail to Turn Off?

Will a bad bladder cause a well pump to run all the time ? On 2020-10-17 by r rice

Suggestions by (mod) -

Not likely, at least not directly and not in the short run.

Watch out: if your water pressure tank was waterlogged (say due to a leaky tank bladder) for a long time, perhaps days or months, the constant pump short cycling that results from that problem can damage a pump impleller assembly so that the pump then may be unable to reach cut-off pressure, so then it may keep running.

If the pump won't stop running see the diagnostics in this table

WATER PRESSURE TABLE 1: PUMP WON'T RUN, WON'T STOP, or CYCLES 

Can a Bad Pressure Tank Cause Pump to Keep Running?

I searched about a reason for why my pump might be running for a long time after water use and one of the first things I see is "InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website." I love it.

Good for you. I had already checked the air pressure in my pressure tank bladder and know that our sandpoint isn't clogged and has lots of water but I never even considered a faulty or clogged pressure switch.

Tomorrow I'm going to take a look at that. I'll report back on my results for anyone that might be interested. On 2021-04-10 by Randy from Saskatchewan

by (mod) - debris clogged pressure switch can cause pump operating trouble

@Randy from Saskatchewan,

Thank you for the nice note, Randy. We've worked hard on this site for decades so I am really grateful when a reader finds our information both useful and trust-worthy. It's not that I might not make a mistake but at least it won't be for the purpose of making a buck.

Some notes that might help:

The pressure tank won't itself cause the pump to fail to shut off (unless it's got an incredible leak);

There are more-detailed explanations of things to check in the article above but I'll add that when you've stopped running water and the pump takes forever to shut-off but finally does, I suspect

- a pressure switch that is not responding quickly to pressure change because it's debris-clogged (you're checking that)

- a clogged foot valve or inlet (you checked this and rule it out)

- a pump that's got a worn or debris-clogged impeller

- a constriction in well piping

- a leak in well piping

- an un-discovered leak or water use in the building (running toilets, leak in crawl space, etc)

Do keep us posted - that may help other readers.

Can a Bad Foot Valve Cause the Pump to Run Continuously or Intermittently?

My water pump continuously runs. I do not have any leaks and I do have pressure. Can my issue be a bad foot valve? On 2023-05-28 by Jim

by InspectApedia DF (mod) - Yes if the pump lost prime and NO water is being delivered

@Jim,

Yes, that's possible

IF the pump lost prime (due to a leaky foot valve)

AND the pump therefore ran "dry" for a time

AND that damaged the pump impeller

but

No, IF the pump runs continuously

AND it is actually delivering water,

THEN the problem isn't likely to be the foot valve. More-likely it'll then be one of the causes listed

at WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING

What is the process for checking a foot valve for leaks?

What is the process for checking a foot valve for leaks? Thanks On 2012-09-02 by Allen -

Reply by (mod) - how to track down a leaky foot valve,

Allen,

To track down a leaky foot valve, turn off water into the house,

then watch for a drop in water preside at the water pump/tank when the system is off

Dropping pressure indicates a leaky check valve, leaky foot valve, or a leak in the well piping itself, between house and well.

Beyond that you'd have to pull the well piping to inspect it and perhaps to replace the foot valve at that time.

Watch out: there could still be a leak in the buried well line between house and well. That's more difficult to isolate though there are pipe inspection cameras and also of course, searching along the route of the well pipe for wet areas.

Pump Won't Stop if Water is Being Used Q&A

Pressure Switch Never Turns Off if I'm Running Water - Brian's Pump Saga

While my water is running the pressure switch won't cut off. Is that normal? On 2023-05-16 by Brian

by InspectApedia Publisher (mod) - may be normal depending on water use rate

@Brian,

That can certainly happen if the rate at which water is being used is more than the pump can exceed.

In that case it will run continuously until you turn off water. The limiting factor could be the pump or it could be the flow rate of your well.

Water Pump runs once then won't turn on again

When I start my pump, it builds pressure to about 30psi and then shuts off and will not cut on again and I have to restart it and ends up same results. I've tried 3 different pressure switches.

My pressure tank has the correct air pressure in it. There's a lot of condensation on my pressure tank that I have never noticed before. Any suggestions on what to do On 2022-03-12 by Brian

by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - First check for the right air pressure but wrong air volume

@Brian,

I don't think this is exactly a pressure tank problem - though if condensation reaches near the top of the tank, indeed it's water-logged ( a condition that can cause pump short-cycling).

Your tank might have the right "pressure" of air but not the right air volume. You want the tank air pre-charge to be 2 psi below the CUT-IN pressure when the pump has been turned off and all water pressure has been drained from the system.

Rather when the pump turns off before reaching the cut-off pressure I suspect the well is running out of water and the pump is being shut off by a pump protection switch OR the pump itself is overheating or failing.

Pump trips circuit breaker

Water pump to well shutting off and sometimes breaker shuts off why On 2017-12-03 by Brian Elliot

Possible diagnosis by (mod) -

That sounds like an overheating pump motor - a problem that can occur if a water pump has been run dry or simply from age and a failing pump bearing.

Replaced pressure switch, now breaker trips

I just replaced a faulty pressure switch and now it keeps tripping the breaker on the out side control box like once a day. (July 9, 2014) brian

Reply:

Brian

If a breaker keeps tripping there is most likely an intermittent short in your wiring or an overcurrent caused by a failing pump motor.

Pump cycles on and off multiple times before reaching the CUT-OFF pressure

Water pump kicks on for about 5 seconds and cuts off with pressure switch contacts still closed . It takes about 5 times on and off to build pressure up to 50 psi and open contacts? On 2016-12-30 by Brian

Diagnostic suggestion by (mod)

Brian:

Start by checking for a clogged filter or a valve that's clogged or nearly closed between the water pump and the pressure tank or building.

Pump loses prime, burns up pressure switch

Gf has deep well 2 line water ace. Keeps losing prime, on second pressure switch in5 yrs,and now seal is out of shaft-bad leak.

Q is are we looking bad ck. valve or just seal causing pressure loss. Note that pump would turn on as soon as anything used. Trying not to do a new well. PLEASE HELP. On 2016-08-03 by brian the boyfriend

by (mod) - failed check valve or foot valve

Check for a failed check valve or foot valve. That can explain repeated loss of prime.

Jet pump takes too long to pressurise the water tank

My jet pump takes 15 minutes to pressurize and refill my 20 gal. pressure tank from "cut in" to "cut off" (30-50 lbs). Air is also visible in the clear hose connection from the pump outlet to the pressure tank (bleeding the line doesn't correct this).

When taking a shower water pressure drops to 40 lbs. in 1st. 15 seconds then slows to 37 lbs. in 30 seconds, 35 lbs. in 55 seconds and then to 30 lbs. at 2 minutes, before pump comes on for another 15 minute cycle.

Also, if you continue using water when pump cycles on you will eventually run out of water. What could the problem and solution be? (Oct 28, 2015) Brian

Reply:

Hi Brian.

I would be looking for

- low water or poor flow rate in the well - this is the most likely problem - as I elaborate below
- pump set higher than needed above well bottom in a well with a small static head and poor flow rate
- a leak in well piping

It's normal for water pressure to fall during the period of water use when water pressure is being delivered by the air charge in the pressure tank.

Once the pump kicks in the relationship of that to water pressure depends on the pump delivery rate (gpm), lift, piping diameter, and of course the usage rate or flow rate possible at the fixture. In a modest-capacty home system and if the usage rate is fast enough that the pump can't "get ahead" of the fixtrure flow, then the water flow rate may be steady as long as the pump keeps running.

The fact that you run out of water suggests that the root problem is that your well has a poor recovery rate. - Daniel Friedman

Brian said:

Thanks Dan, your response makes a lot of sense.

Pump is not pulling water from the well

Hooked up 1/2 hp flotec pump, small unit has its own pressure tank, to old concrete well on front lawn, want to use for irrigation exclusively.

Plastic pipe comes through basement wall and was capped off with no pump at all when I bought house.

Now that pump is hooke up I have primed it several times but it will only pump out the priming water and runs dry and is not drawing from well, what can I do? Thanks (Nov 17, 2014) Brian

Reply:

Brian

Either the prime quantity is insufficient or there is a leak in well piping or a similar problem such as damaged impeller in the pump or low voltage.

Pump Runs-On: Exhausted the Well

Pump is running but doesn't deliver any water from our shallow well

I've read through this entire page, and I still don't know exactly what our issue is. Lost water to the house yesterday. We have a shallow well in a well pit.

The pump/pressure tank combo was brand new only 3 years ago.

I opened up the well pit to discover that the pump was running. It was acting as though it lost its prime (which it NEVER does). I opened the cap and added water to try to re-prime it. It simply would not pump water from the ground.

Went to Menards to buy a new pump. Employee there told us it might be the pressure switch. So we bought one of those instead. Got back, took the cap off the pressure switch and manually opened/closed a few times, then plugged the pump back in and magically, everything seemed to be working just fine. All old components in place.

We had water for awhile, but then lost it again a few hours later. Same issue. And now manually triggering the pressure switch on/off wasn't doing anything.

Both times we lost water, we were running the washing machine. When it is filling, it uses a LOT of water, causing water pressure to be almost non-existent in the other faucets in the house. I was in the well pit when the washing machine was filling, and I watched the water pressure gauge on the pump go WAY down, like below 20.

I tried turning the power back on to the pump a few times the rest of the evening, no water. After letting it sit idle (no power) overnight, I tried again this morning, and we magically have water again! But I'm certain we're going to have this ongoing issue - I'm guessing probably next time we run the washing machine.

Note: the pressure switch seems to be working as it should. It shuts the pump off at 50 and turns it back on at 30. Except that it would run constantly when we were having the issue while the PSI was reading 0 (zero) and it wasn't pumping any water.

Oh... and something on the pump itself seems to be leaking while it's pumping - but I can't quite pinpoint where the leak is coming from. Might be the water outlet connection...

I'm wondering if this could be a pressure tank issue? When the pressure gets too low - could that somehow cause the pump to stop pumping water from the ground? Perhaps the bladder is going bad?

I'm so confused, because of how it works then doesn't work. I'm about to go to Menards and purchase a whole new pump/pressure tank combo - but I don't want to waste my time/money if I don't have to. Does this sound like something I should have a professional diagnose? On 2022-11-20 by Matthew Allen -

by InspectApedia (Editor) - you may have exhausted the well

@Matthew Allen,

I understand that it's difficult to diagnose pump troubles, but in general, we offer some more advice and ask you to let me know what works for you or what questions remain.

FIRST: the fact that you have no water but after leaving the system OFF for hours or longer you have water again is a strong suggestion that the problem isn't directly the tank, switch, or pump but rather that you've exhausted the well.

If the well has a poor flow rate (at which water flows into the well when water is being taken out) then you can run out, the pump can't deliver water, and there is risk of running the pump "dry" that can in turn damage the pump.

SECOND: your observation that you run out of water when using a lot of water (washing machine) suggests that my FIRST guess is probably the problem.

There are other possibilities that an onsite expert might find such as a pipe leak in the system, but the symptoms point to what I said first - not the other components.

Note this warning -that if you run the pump without water entering the pump it can be damaged.

There are pump protection devices of various sorts (described at this website) that can protect against such damage.

SOLUTION: you may squeeze by for a time by installing a large water storage tank. The pump fills the tank SLOWLY and during times when you're not using water - so that when you have a surge in water demand it's taken from the tank, not directly from the well.

more suggestions are at WATER QUANTITY IMPROVEMENT

You might also ask your well company to do a well flow test.

WELL FLOW TEST for WATER QUANTITY

and see

WELL YIELD IMPROVEMENT - get more water


1. PROBABLY NOT THE WATER PRESSURE TANK: the pressure tank might affect how frequently the pump runs or the length of a pump -on cycle but a tank problem (such as a leak, lost air charge, waterlogged) would never cause the pump to run continuously unless the tank had such a huge hole that it was leaking water out faster than the pump could send water into the tank -

so it's probably not a tank issue directly.

With this subtle exception: a tank that loses its air charge and then causes rapid pump on-off cycling, if that problem goes on long enough - days or longer - might in turn lead to a damaged pump bearing or impeller or pump motor.

2. POSSIBLY the pressure control switch

- if the switch cut OUT is set higher than the pump can reach

or

- if the pressure switch contacts have burned and become welded shut in the "ON" position

or

- if dirt and debris clogged the pressure switch sensor port so that it doesn't sense the increase in water pressure and so keeps the pump on

Watch out: if this last item occurs, there is danger of a burst water pipe or water tank that could injure someone or flood the building.

IF you replaced the pressure control switch and set it properly and cleaned or replaced the tubing that brings water pressure to the switch, the switch is not likely to be the problem.

by Matthew Allen

@InspectApedia (Editor), Thank you very much for this detailed reply! This is far more helpful than anything else I've been able to find online. Your FIRST guess seems to make the most sense.

Luckily, the issue is at our 2nd home, and we typically only go there maybe once per month in the winter.

We will hopefully get by with little water usage when we are there until next spring and then consider our options with a professional well company. Thanks again! Your detailed response is greatly appreciated.

My pump would not stop running - the tech says I need a new well

My pump began running non stop and when the well person came out they said they were able to set psi to 38 and the pump would shut off correctly however most likely the jet is plugged or a hole in casing for it to change suddenly and It will eventually just quit.

Does this sound correct. It is now functioning fine at 38 psi but I am concerned since winter is coming and I shoul get a well drilled now. I am not planning in investing in repair if it needs repair because it's an old 2" - Amanda 8/26/12

Reply:

Amanda I don't understand the question you are asking.

A hole in a well casing may admit dirt and contaminants and might speed up clogging of the well screen on a foot valve or pump pickup;

But some more accurate diagnosis is needed before drilling a new well.

IF indeed the well flow is inadequate or the well has run dry, then yes that would cause the pump to run continuously without delivering water (and maybe damage the pump).

Read these two articles so that you'll be fully prepared for your onsite well technician:

• WELL FLOW TEST PROCEDURE
• WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS

Poor Well Flow Rate: Pump Won't Stop

I have well water. Water table is high. I have low water pressure resulting in the well pressure switches preset cut in and out settings not coinciding with my well pumps out put.

This causes the well pressure switch to never cutting out and remaining in the open position. So its constantly running. I have replaced the well tank and switch. So my question is can I adjust the cut out settings while its running?

If so will the switch close when the screw is turned.

By being able to do this it will take the mental guesswork out of the equation.

Same as if I was manually setting a timer. On 2021-01-13 by Barbara Searle

Reply by (mod) -

Barbara

Watch out: do NOT try to adjust the pressure control switch while the pump is running - as you could be shocked or killed.

You'll need to turn off electrical power to the circuit to be able to open the pressure control switch to adjust it.

But I would not rush to change the pressure control switch if it was already set to normal settings like CUT-in 20 PSI CUT-OUT 40 psi

or 30/50 psi.

Instead, I'd want to know why the pump can't reach that cut-off pressure.

See the diagnostics at

PUMP NEVER STOPS

Water Pump Won't Stop Running - Points in the Pressure Switch Burn-Up

My pump cannot reach the cut-out pressure setting - my pump runs all the time

I have replaced the Pressure switch and I can not acheive cutout, pump continues to run. Switch is adjusted very low for cutout. The units cuts in about 26-28 psi. but exceeds the desired 50 -60 psi cutout. - BK 6/6/11

I had to put a new pressure switch on, the pump was running all the time and it burn the points up. The new one is letting the pump run all the time too, when the pump is running the water pressure keeps going up and down, until there is a small amount of water coming out.

I'll turn the pump off and back on then the pressure will come back up and if it runs about a couple of minutes it will do the same thing again. I have no leaks, could this be the water tank?
I need help - Ed 6/18/12

My pump does not exceed 32psi and constantly runs then fails to cut back on even though pressure drops below 20psi. Only way to start it is to manually connect the flow switch to engage the pump. - Jack Nelson 7/7/12

(Nov 26, 2014) Evelio said:
water pump in the tank keep and pressure wont go over 40psi theres anething i can do

(Jan 26, 2015) Anonymous said:
pump does not shut off

Reply: first check the pressure control switch CUT-OUT or CUT OFF pressure setting

BK: Well pump won't stop running: try setting your pressure control to turn on at 20 psi and off at 40 psi. That should be achievable by most well pumps unless the pump itself is damaged. Once you have the pump operating normally in that pressure range you can try increasing the cut out, or both cut-in and cut-out gradually

Don't operate the pump too close to the highest cut-out pressure that it can attain, since there is the risk that when you're not watching the system may, through wear or other factors, leave the pump running until it burns up.

Jack, if the pump does not start at pressures below the cut- in point of 20 psi, the switch may be bad. But the pump running continuously and never delivering cutoff pressure is something else - such as lost well water flow rate or a well piping leak or someone has left a faucet open in the home.

Evelio, check for a well running out of water or a worn or damaged pump impeller or low voltage to the pump motor.

Pump won't stop running: clogged pressure control switch tubing or sensor

Suddenly my well pump won't shut off with a high pressure of 65.

HELP! Have submersible pump replaced 5 years ago.

Last year, changed well bladder tank from 40 gallons to 87 gallons as recommended by amount of faucets.

Since we've suffered from very rusty water & sulfur smell changed all plumbing lines, pressure gauges and added some extra valves for easier diagnosis with problems.

Added a pressure relief valve as recommended by new tank.

About 30 feet from well & tank is our house, against it is our salt softener (all internal parts changed out last year too) and added a double filtration system. New gauges and extra valves there as well.

Worked beautifully with clear un-smelly water. Suddenly my well pump won't shut off with a high pressure of 65.

The tank appears to have water at the bottom as it doesn't sound hollow & its heavy. I checked for running water/leaks, then changed out the cut off switch. Strangely well pressure went down to 55 but still the pump did not shut off.

Adjusted new cut off switch to approx 50 (about 2 1/2 turns on diff. nut and 1/2 turn on larger). STILL PUMP RUNNING.

The well pressure maintains 55 at tank.....45 at my house (normal drop between well & house after filters). Still pump running.

I checked control box. Capacitor was questionable as was a wire. Changed out complete control box. STILL PUMP RUNS CONTINUOUSLY.

I've been turning off the circuit breaker when I don't need water. I noticed that when the water is turned off it begins running back to the well.

So it sounds like it is running into all the lines because of the pump continuously running OR it may not be filling the tank, but as I said the tank sounds full at the bottom (not in the middle, I'd say lower 1/3) Spent all my money on control box & cut off.

WHAT could be the problem? On 2019-01-18 by TinaLynnNelson@aol.com -

by (mod) - Look for a clogged pressure switch

Tina

Watch out: very high pump pressure can burst a water pressure tank and injure people nearby or flood the building.

Besides that immediate concern, and if no water is running in your building and there's no well pipe leak, I suspect a clogged pressure control switch - replace it.

The fact that the pump's cutoff pressure also changed suggests that it's a switch problem.

We have suggested diagnostic steps for a pump that won't stop

See WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING

Water Pump that never stops running - If we never call for water then the pressure stays up at 40psi the whole day.

I have a pump that never stops running - we have looked everywhere for a leak.

We turn off the relay switch once the pressure tank has full pressure, and then the water will continue to flow from the pipes without the pump all day until all of the pressure has been exhausted in the pressure tank.

If we never call for water then the pressure stays up at 40psi the whole day. Could this be a bad relay switch?

Could there be some other issue? We have a gravity fed cistern and the pump that sits atop the pressure tank "pulls" water from the cistern and pushes the water to all the pipes in the house (the pump and pressure tank sit beside the cistern). Thank you for your help. On 2012-10-04 by Kristen -

Reply by (mod) - Check for debris clogging at both the pressure gauge and pressure control switch.

Kristen

Check for debris clogging at both the pressure gauge and pressure control switch. Thats what your description suggests.

Pump Keeps Running: Well Piping Leak

Pump won't get pressure above 20 psi after fixing a leaky foot valve

Changed a foot valve on shallow well , cause foot valve was leaking thru ! Put new one on , now pump won’t build up pass 20 lbs ? Need suggestions? On 2022-03-06 by Charles mizell

by Inspectapedia Com Moderator (mod) - signs of a leak in well piping

@Charles mizell,

If the pump was having no trouble reaching the shut-off pressure before, I

and if we don't think that the pump itself or its impeller assembly or venturi is clogged or damaged

then I suspect that there's a leak in your well piping connections.

Try tightening all those hose clamps and doubling them up; that's worked for me more than once.

Pump Won't Stop: Wiring or Switch Loose or Damaged

Pump won't stop unless I hit the pressure switch

I have replaced my holding tank and my pump and the points and put a new check valve on but my pump continues to run constantly unless I taken hit the points with a screwdriver and then it sucks the water up really fast until it cuts off when it is running it holds pressure around 40 but will not shut off On 2022-02-01 by Tony

by Inspectapedia Com Moderator (mod) - look for a clogged pressure switch or pressure switch tubing

@Anonymous, or Tony

The fact that the switch cuts off if you hit it makes me think that perhaps there is a loose electrical connection OR that the tube or pipe bringing water pressure to the pump control switch pressure sensor may itself be debris clogged.

Pump Runs Until it Dims Lights & Trips Breaker

After we’ve used any water at all the pump will run and turn on constantly which is turn causes tv to turn off and on by itself as well as all lights on in the house

Hi there! Thanks so much for all this great and helpful information!! We’re renting and there is a well pump .

LL says it’s a very deep well and the crazy amounts of water that keep our entire backyard sipping wet seens to us that something is wrong .

It’s a constant steady stream of water, anytime we use water in the house (I.E; to wash laundry, run sinks, take shower, dish washer , water from fridge , etc.) the lights in the house and anything electrical plugged in like TV or microwave will turn off and on!

For hours after we’ve used any water at all the pump will run and turn on constantly which is turn causes tv to turn off and on by itself as well as all lights on in the house . Even if it’s something as simple as flushing the toilet it will do this. Have you ever seen or heard of anything like this?

The signs on the actual pump house says it is a shallow well. It’s a very old house built in 1925 but remodeled . You may email us at busymommab619@icloud.com if you wouldn’t mind ! Thanks so much! On 2020-04-18 by Kody and Brooke

by (mod) - pump failure leading to overcurrent leading to tripped breaker or blown fuse

Kody

Let me emphasize that I do not know quite what's happening at your rental home and cannot reliably diagnose this problem by text posts alone. However what you describe sounds dangerous.

Any electrical problem: flashing lights, intermittent loss of power, is a potential fire, shock, injury or even fatality risk that needs to be addressed promptly.

The safe thing to do in a building with such events is to turn OFF the mis-behaving electrical circuit and call for help from a licensed electrician.

When use of water seems to be connected to electrical power problems there are several possible causes, at least some of which are dangerous. This cannot be the entire list as as I"ve said I know too little about your situation.

- a water leak in the plumbing supply system may be wetting and short-circuiting electrical switches, controls, equipment

- a pump may be running too long, too hot, dry (well is running out of water - can happen on a shallow or deep well), damaged, short-cycling due to a pressure tank saturation, or an improper pressure control installation, setting, or condition; an electrical overload (pump draws excessive current) for any reason (such as a failing motor bearing or a short circuit) can cause other circuits in the building to dim or flicker.

If there are short circuits and / or an electrical overload and circuit breakers or fuses are not turning off the electrical circuits involved, there is an additional risk of building fire or shock.

As I point out, without an expert on site the speculation above serves only to give a clear warning that the building may have unsafe conditions risking fire or shock and that prompt attention is needed.

You need an onsite expert - probably a licensed electrician as well as a pump or plumbing expert.

Notify your landlord both in writing and orally of these risks.

Keep me posted - what we learn may help others.

Well Pump Never Stops: Impact on Pump Life

I left water on, is pump life reduced?

Someone may have used the hose outside and left it running; found pump on with no water coming out. prime lost. pump only one yr old.
impeller a bit messed up and wobbling on its shaft. replaced impeller and seal.

had pump been damaged? is it defective? why would a one yr old pump's impeller be worn and wobbling? home is only occupied occasionally in past year.

are more troubles ahead? pump life shortened? (Jan 22, 2013) Anonymous

Reply:

If the pump ran dry it's likely to have been damaged: the damage can be to a motor bearing or to the pump impeller assembly (if it uses that device).

Protection for a Pump That Runs Continuously

Pump Continuous Use or Pump that Cannot Reach Cut-out Pressure

For a well pump that cannot reach the cut-off pressure most likely it just keeps running.

In addition to the FAQs just below, see WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING - things that make the pump keep running without ever reaching the CUT-OUT pressure.

See these articles for devices that shut off a well pump to protect it from damage from loss of water in the well (pump won't stop running) or to protect a pump from short cycling:

• WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH
• WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLE STOP VALVE
• WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING
• WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
• Note that a well pump that is seizing or otherwise drawing excessive electrical current should also trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse.

Is it Good or Bad for my Irrigation Pump Motor to Run Continuously

I use my water well for irrigation.

My pump motor had to be replaced after about 6 years. I open enough valves so when watering the pump runs continuously without turning off and on hoping to increase motor life knowing that these motors are designed to start and stop over and over am I causing early pump failure by leaving it continuously running for hours at a time? On 2017-07-26 by Larry

by (mod) - Several ways to avoid water pump burn-ups from running dry or running too long and overheating

Larry,

You raise a common concern: I often hear from people having water equipment or well problems particularly for systems that are used in irrigation or lawn watering systems.

There are two common causes of water pump damage:

1. Running the pump continuously over long intervals when the pump motor is not designed for continuous duty
2. Running pump dry when the water source is lost

You'd need one of the following to avoid over-taxing the pump and perhaps burning it up:

1. A tailpiece in the well that can protect a 2-line jet pump - see WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
2. A sensor that turns off the pump if it is running "dry" - see WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH
3. A new pump motor with a duty cycle rated for continuous-on usage. Such motors are designed to avoid overheating and to tolerate long on cycles. Look at irrigation pumps. Talk to the pump manufacturer if you can't find the usage duty cycle in the pump's specifications.
   
   Example: the WAYNE PLS100 1 HP Portable Stainless Steel Lawn Sprinkling Pump rated for continuous duty and capable of 20 ft lift.
   
   Another excellent continuous duty pump (from my reading not my experience first hand) is the AMT High Head Straight Centrifugal Pump - 4900-98, 118 GPM, 1.5" x 1.25", 3 HP, 230v, water pump is, according to the manufacturer's specs, rated for continuous duty.
   
   However the AMT pump is not self-priming and is not designed for application where a water lift-height is involved. You probably need a model that can lift your water.
4. A restricted water flow rate + pressure tank that lets the pump stay off for 10-20 minutes at a shot
5. A quite large water pressure tank and a pump that could get ahead of the water usage rate, fill the tank and then stay off for 10 or 20 minutes at a time