Ridge Vent Installation Instructions & ErrorsRoof venting at the ridge, inspect from attic: this article describes common attic ventilation defects easily observed at the ridge or high point of the roof, as visible from the attic or building interior.
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?
This article describes inspection methods and clues to detect roof venting deficiencies, insulation defects, and attic condensation problems in buildings.
It describes proper roof ventilation placement, amounts, and other details. This discussion is part of "How to Correct Improper or Inadequate Attic or Under-Roof Ventilation in buildings" in our discussion of "Attic Condensation".
You need the gap at the ridge (or "peak") of the roof for the ridge vent to work. Of course some roof shapes such as pyramid or shed roofs merit special techniques to obtain effective intake and exit venting.
But for a simple gable-styled roof structure, here is what a ridge vent looks like from inside the attic of a home.
The ridge vent cut at the roof ridge or peak extends the entire length of the ridge,
stopping just a foot or so from either end,
and should give 1.5” to 2.5” of open space (no plywood) on either side of the ridge board for attic air to escape out through the ridge vent.
Watch out: In certain areas of the United States, building codes do not allow for a continuous slot to be cut into the roof structure. [See illustration below, adapted from Benjamin Obdyke.]
This is especially true on the west coast and other earthquake prone areas.
[Benjamin Obdyke's ] Roll Vent can be installed on a roof without a continuous slot.
Drill 1 1/4 inch holes every 2 inches on center (this will leave 3/4 inch of deck between each hole) and 1 1/4 inches on center from the peak of the roof. From each gable end, leave 6 inches with no holes cut. (Benjamin Obdyke 2017).
Watch out: As depicted by the pair of photographs above, sometimes we find that a builder has installed a ridge vent from outside but s/he failed to cut away the roof plywood to provide the exit air path to properly vent the attic. In this case this lazy man's faux ridge vent installed outside should be removed along with any ridge cap shingles below it.
The ridge vent slot should be cut to remove roof sheathing as we described just above (or best, following instructions of the ridge vent manufacturer).
Do not cut into the rafters themselves. Then install the ridge vent again and you'll have a working roof exit vent system.
It’s less common for us to find that a builder cut away plywood for the ridge vent, but that s/he installed building paper or more likely roofing felt over the opening before installing the ridge vent.
In this case just cut away the building paper to expose the underside of the plastic ridge vent mesh, plastic Cor-A-Vent material (looks like a plastic version of the edge of a cardboard box)
or the opening into the aluminum ridge vent (depending on which type of ridge vent was installed).
Check that the ridge vent material itself is not blocked by building paper (which you can simply cut away).

The blocking of the ridge vent opening above by roofing felt is improper.
Also see ROOFING FELT UNDERLAYMENT REQUIREMENTS
If when inspecting from the attic and looking up into the slot of removed-plywood at the ridge of the roof you see the under side of a roof shingle, either the roofer made the ridge vent a bit longer than needed, or something else is going on that we’d need to check from outside.
In any case, do not cut away roofing shingles over the ridge vent as you might invite a roof leak.
If your attic or under-roof cavity has a problem with moisture or mold, installing continuous, un-blocked, aggressive exit venting at the ridge is an important step.
Above: this ridge vent opening was blocked by ceiling insulation inside teh structure, and the opening was insufficient in width if a ridge board is present. Photo courtesy of InspectApedia.com reader Moses.
Details of this snafu are at CATHEDRAL CEILING VENTILATION
Illustration: showing the proper cut-out opening dimensions for a typical ridge vent exerpted & adapted from CertainTeed ridge vent installation manual cited below. The company recommends a cutout width giving a 3/4" wide opening on either side of a ridge board (that is itself typically 1 1/2" thick) making the total cutout width about 3".
A Benjamin Obdyke roll-vent type ridge vent requires a 3 1/2 inch slot at the ridge, giving a 1" opening on either side of a typical 1 1/2" thick ridge board (if present).
The cutout for the ridge vent usually stops 6" from the end of the ridge, from an abutting vertical end-wall, or from the abutment to a hip on a hipped roof.
[Click to enlarge any image]
Above and below (with edits by InspectApedia): CertainTeed's 12-inch Ridge Vent; note the use of a synthetic fabric intended to prevent wind-blown rain and snow entry.

[This roof near-ridge or "off ridge" vent may be useful where construction details, such as a very wide structural ridge beam preclude use of more-conventional ridge vent products - Ed.[]
...
Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
My installed asphalt GAF replacement roof had many shingles blocking the slots in the cobra ridge roof vent. after a long period of time, the contractor
went into the attic and cut out the shingles and underlayment blocking the vent slots Should the roofer had done more and remove the ridge vent to see if the shingles were properly sealed
I looked at my main roof ridge vent in the attic and I see underlayment and shingles blocking air flow.
I have GAF shingles and GAF Cobra vent. I have cathedral ceilings so it is difficult to see all of the main ridge vent in the attic I can only see a very small area, about 8 feet. .
I can not see the garage ridged roof vent in the attic because structures and its location
my question must On 2020-08-26 by dominick
by (mod)
Dom
If the ridge vent is still blocked then it needs to be cleared; if there's no access from below the fix requires removing the ridge vent atop the ridge, un-blocking the air path, and replacing the ridge vent.
I just went into the attic of our newly acquired home. It's a gable metal roof, been on the house around a year. It has a ridge cap, and soffit venting. However, all the soffit vents are blocked with insulation, and 75 percent of the ridge cap looks like it has shingles over it.
Imagine a sideways T, That is the layout. Over the attached garage, the ridge cap is open. As soon as you hit the house portion, all the way back and at the cross, it looks blocked with shingles. When I get back to the very back, I see black mold ( possibly, it's black, and looks like mold) and the chipboard is peeling apart and looks like it came out of a fire. I mean, It's peeling off the sheet, and is "curling" off with that very distinct browned/crispy/crumbles in your fingers look and feel.
I'm assuming the attic is getting WAYY to hot?
How should I go about fixing this, Just move the insulation away from all the soffit vents? how would airflow get to the back portion of the house with what appears to be shingles blocking the ridge vent?
From what I can find, I should move the insulation covering the soffit vents, and install some sort of vent cover and put the insulation back. Then, The rest is a wild guess.
It probably doesn't help that the bathroom vents, and septic vent also vent into the attic. I'd like to get this fixed, any advice? On 2020-07-18 by Micah
Answer by (mod) -
Micah
If the soffits are blocked, I agree that the under roof ventilation system can't work. The issues are not just that it's very hot in the Attic in warm weather.
There's also a risk of condensation accumulation in the Attic in cool weather which in turn leads to mold contamination or other moisture problems in the building.
If it's possible to pull back the insulation or insert some baffles or both to get adequate air flow between every pair of Rafters that would be a simple Improvement on the situation. Acure however not to pull back the installation so far that you start to suffer heat loss through the interior ceilings.I wanted to add that the bath vents need to vent to the exterior. It's not a proper to vent them into the attic space and is really asking for trouble.
You surely want to clean the multi surfaces and inspect the attic side of ceiling drywall for mold contamination. Clean what you can remove mold suspect insulation, and then perhaps consider a fungicidal sealant on the cleaned surfaces
how do you inspect the roof vent from on top of roof On 2020-06-18 by dominick
Answer by (mod) -
Dom
You can't complete the inspection of a ridge or spot vent just from the roof side as you probably can't see if, for example along the ridge, the plywood decking was actually cut away to make an opening for exit venting.
you can see that the vent is un-damaged and is securely in place
...
Continue reading at ATTIC VENTILATION or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
Or see these
RIDGE VENT, ATTIC INSTALL & INSPECT at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.
Or see this
Or use the SEARCH BOX found below to Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia
Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.
Search the InspectApedia website
Note: appearance of your Comment below may be delayed: if your comment contains an image, photograph, web link, or text that looks to the software as if it might be a web link, your posting will appear after it has been approved by a moderator. Apologies for the delay.
Only one image can be added per comment but you can post as many comments, and therefore images, as you like.
You will not receive a notification when a response to your question has been posted.
Please bookmark this page to make it easy for you to check back for our response.
IF above you see "Comment Form is loading comments..." then COMMENT BOX - countable.ca / bawkbox.com IS NOT WORKING.
In any case you are welcome to send an email directly to us at InspectApedia.com at editor@inspectApedia.com
We'll reply to you directly. Please help us help you by noting, in your email, the URL of the InspectApedia page where you wanted to comment.
In addition to any citations in the article above, a full list is available on request.