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How to fix a bad water pump cut-in & cut-out switch

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Water pump control switch repair questions & answers:

This article describes how to repair a bad well pump or water pump pressure control switch.

We provide pump pressure switch diagnosis, repair, or replacement advice, procedures & questions & answers about the well pump or water pressure control switch.



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FAQs on how to diagnose & fix or replace a bad water pump pressure switch

Photograph of Photograph of a water pump pressure control switch adjustment instructions

Questions & answers about how to repair the pressure control switch for a well pump, posted originally at WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH REPAIRS the home page for this topic. Please be sure to also check the procedures given there.

Watch out: SAFETY WARNING OF FATAL SHOCK HAZARD: if you remove the cover of the pump pressure control switch you can get access to the two nuts that adjust the operating pressures of the water pump.

But watch out! There are also live electrical contacts exposed in this area. If you touch them, especially being near water piping, there is a serious risk of death by electrocution.

Watch what you touch, or have a professional plumber or electrician do this job for you.

The individual well pump control switch repair article links below explain exactly how to set the water pump pressure switch, where the adjustments are located (the large and small nut found under the switch cover), which way to turn the nuts to increase or decrease the pump cut-in and cut-out pressures, and other pressure switch troubleshooting and repair procedures

[Click to enlarge any image]

Question: pump turns on manually but not automatically

(Mar 9, 2016) howarde said:
i replaced tank and pressure switch i can manualy kick on pump with lever and it will kick off but when comes time to kick on the switch works makes the contact but wont stay on...any clue

Reply:

Howard:

If the pressure switch won't stay on I suspect

- the switch is defective or its pressure sensing port or the tube conducting pressure to the switch base is clogged
- the switch is improperly set or mis-adjusted
- the pump is turning on but unable to push water into the pressure tank or into the building (a stuck tank bladder or closed valve

Keep me posted

Question: water slows to a trickle

(Mar 31, 2016) BobbyJB said:
We have a 30 ft. Trinity water well that we recently replaced the pump in. That was two months ago. Now when we run water any where in the house it slows down to a trickle and slowly down to no water at all. In a few minutes it will come back on full force where it should be. It has been doing this over and over. I believe it is the relay switch gone bad . I am going now to buy another, but am wondering what else it might be or is there something else I can check that could be the problem? Please help

Correction for water well depth in previous post. It should be 330 ft. not 30 ft.

Reply:

Bobby,

Check for silt or debris clogging of the sensor port on the bottom of the pressure control switch, and for clogging of the tube that conducts the water pressure to the switch. If there is sediment or debris in your water supply that could be causing flooding which in turn will make the switch slow to respond or to act erratically.

Another possibility is that the well flow rate is very poor.

Question: new tank and switch but pump still won't come on: I hear humming at the well!

(May 8, 2016) Sheri said:
OK new tank new switch and new gauge switch still won't come on my pump is in ground however when u take cap off you can hear humming help. What is it.

Reply:

Humming in the well as you describe suggests to me that the switch is ON and the motor is seized. Your electrician can confirm that the switch is sending power to the pump and can measure current draw to hint at whether the pump is running normally, running dry, or seized.

Watch out: turn off power to the pump immediately. Leave it off until your plumber or electrician has repaired or replaced the pump.

 

Question: pressure switch was clogged with sand, cleaned, but pump still won't shut off and won't build pressure

x(June 10, 2016) Taysan said:
My pump pressure switch was clogged with sand, cleaned it , but pump still kept running, never build pressure more than 40 psi, tried all things suggested here , installed new pressure switch still did not work.
I forgot to switch off my pump last weekend as I was manually running it and it kept running for 2 hours pump became super hot by the time I realized.
But this did miracle, my pump is now building pressure of 50 psi and switch is correctly working.
My theory is that whatever was clogged in pump vanes got cleared up because of heat and expansion.

Reply:

Indeed it sounds as if the pump got a miracle cure; or crud blocking the pressure switch sensor jiggled aside for the time being.

When a pump cannot reach cutoff pressure either there is no water (or no water entering the pump), or the pump is damaged. (Or on occasion there is low voltage to the pump)

Question:

CanI attach a pressure tube to the pump to adjust my water pressure?

Reply:

I'm not sure what you mean by "pressure tube". The adjustment of the pressure of the air pre-charge in a pressure tank is discussed in an article you'll find by searching InspectApedia for ADJUST WATER TANK AIR PRESSURE

Normally in a water tank using an internal bladder, air pressure is adjusted via an air valve or schrader valve right on the air tank or on the tank tee at the tank bottom connections.

Question: lost water pressure, pushed pressure switch, pump came on, switch was sparking and chattering

(June 27, 2016) Trey said:
Last night I was giving my kid a bath and lost water to house, my well pump is in garage, and could not hear it run. I went out to investigate and pushed on the pressure switch and pump came on and shut off like it was supposed to, but the switch was sparking while running, pump has not problem cutting out, just cutting in. Would the sparking indicate a faulty switch?

Reply:

Minor sparks or arcing are normal at many control relays. But a lot of sparking or worse, chattering at the relay means that either the relay is bad or the motor that the relay is trying to start is seized or won't run for some other reason.

As a first step, since sparking and "chattering" in the pump control relay switch may mean burned contacts - replace the switch or replace the contact set within the switch.

(June 27, 2016) Anonymous said:
That's what I thought just wanted to make sure I was headed in the right direction.

Mod said: When replacing the switch also check for clogging in the tube connecting water pressure to the switch bottom sensor port and clear or replace that as well.

(June 27, 2016) Trey said:
Ok, Thanks.

Question: pump is cycling every 30 seconds ever since we had our house power-washed

(July 4, 2016) Mary said:
We had our house power washed last week (we were away) and ever since the pump switch is cycling about every 30 seconds. All toilets turned off, turned off all outside water supply to spigots. Water pressure normal in house. We have an artesian well. Getting ready to call plumber, but anything we can try first? Thanks.

Reply:

Power washing may have used so much water that the well was run dry, OR for a typical (non-artesian well) so much water could have been run that the air charge in the pressure tank was exhausted, causing the well pump to "short cycle".

But when you are sure that there is no water running in the building and when you are sure that your artesian well still has plenty of water we need to look elsewhere.

It sounds as if there is a leak somewhere - perhaps at a check valve, foot valve,or in the well piping between house and well bottom.

Still, if you haven't actually checked the status of the well itself, I wonder if so much water was used that the artesian feature of your well has been exhausted, or the water table dropped. That combined with a leaky check valve could explain what you describe.

(July 4, 2016) Anonymous said:
It makes sense to me that somehow the pressure washing caused this. How would we diagnose other than start digging things up? Thanks.

Mod replies:

If you search InspectApedia.com for DIAGNOSE LOST WATER PRESSURE you'll see a list of detailed suggestions; possibly you'll run the system up to cut-off pressure, then turn off all water into the home, then watch the pressure gauge on the pump and well side of the house main shutoff valve. If pressure drops you can bet there is a leak.

To test well flow rate properly you'd need a plumber or well expert on-site. Search InspectApedia for WELL FLOW TEST to see details.

Question: what is the purpose of that lever on the side of our pump control switch?

2016/07/27 Anonymous said:
I purchased a Sq D Low pressure switch 30/50 when I opened the package I saw a leaver on the side on the contact points you can adjust it 90 degrees but I don't know why? other switch don't have this lever! is it lever down 30? psi lever up 50 psi ?

Reply:

Please see MANUAL PUMP ON/OFF SWITCH - side lever on pump control switch, for complete details.

Question: Square D well pressure pump switch burned up in Texas

(July 26, 2015) Anonymous said:
my square D well pressure pump switch just burned up, I mean as in black hole in the top and the wires on the side even are darkened. We smelled an electrical burn in the house a apparently the box was burning as a few moments later we used up all the water in the tank washing the dishes. My question is, while I am sufficient enough to turn off the power buy a new switch and replace it. I do not have enough funds to do so just to have the new one burn up like the old one.

So why would this burn up? We live in Texas have a lot of minerals in the water, had the switch replaced one time since its installation as crazy ants had shorted it out. I haven't taken the cover off yet to see inside, and will do so after posting this and yes turning off the breaker to the well.

But before I spend money replacing this and then have to spend more money on the well guy coming out cause it didn't work, I thought I would check in here to see what you thought as well. Oh and I am a girl, lol, so while I have wired up switches and plugs, changed out breakers and the like, I am no professional electrician, tho I do a lot of stuff that others might not attempt. Money is the real issue here for me.

oh for the below , its a deep (300+ ft) water well with a submerged pump.

Reply:

Anon:

Watch out: the risk is death by electrocution or fire when messing with electrical wiring - which you may already understand quite well but I need to make that warning.

If the switch burned up it may be futile to replace it without diagnosing the trouble - the next switch may burn up as well.

While the fault could be in the switch itself or a short in wiring to it, short cycling well pumps (due to a waterlogged pressure tank, for example, or a well that is running out of water, or a pump that is failed or shorted or similar troubles could show up at the switch.

A failing pump motor (ran dry, was damaged) may also draw abnormally high current, damaging the switch.

An electrician would probably replace the switch and then check current draw on the circuit to diagnose some underlying problem that burned the switch.

Question: water pump runs but pipe connected to the pump gets very hot

(Sept 24, 2015) dick said:

Mmy water pump is turn off when it reach pressure the problem is the line that bring water to the pump is getting very hot. can you help me fix the problem please?

Reply:

It sounds to me as if your pump may be cavitating or not working properly, overheating, and transmitting that heat to the nearby piping; check the pump itself for overheating.

Comment:

Jack Moore said:
Wow, thanks for writing! This is really helpful to someone who just inherited a house with one of these pumps. No one I know had ever had one before, so I was a little intimidated. But now I know a little more about how to find, adjust, and repair the well pump. Glad I found this!

Question: pump cycles on and off until reaching cut-off pressure

(Apr 11, 2016) gary said:
the contacts on the pump pressure control swich stay connected and pump turns on and off untill pressure is good again.

Reply:

Gary, the contact points may be burned, or bouncing, and may just "look" "on" - I dunno. I'd try replacing the switch

Alternatively you've got a dirty water filter or other blockage on the output side of the pump.

Question: do I pre-pressurize the empty water tank air charge or add water then air pressure?

(June 12, 2012) Anonymous said:

ihave a 30/50 switch so i need 28 psi in the water tank. do i put the air in at 28psi on an empty tank of water or add the water then try to add air up to 28psi?

Reply:

Anon:

if you are setting air pressure in a water pressure tank in the range you describe, the assumption is that the tank has been emptied of water.

On most pump and tank systems if the water tank is a bladderless system and if the air charge is too low, you can add air after water is in the tank as well. Just watch the gauge. If you add too much air typically the excess air will flow out at the nearest faucet when you next run water.

See WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD

Question: well pump won't get above 10 psi

(June 17, 2012) Jamie McGehee said:

my new pump worked fine for about a week. Then all at once,my pump is running but pressure wont go above 10psi
I have read up on pressure switches but dont really think this is the problem because my pump is running and most problems I read about have to do with pumps not running. So could this be the pressure tank being saturated even though I have the right psi in tank. Or could this be an internal problem even thought the pump is only one week old. Any input would be appreciated.

Reply:

Jamie, double check that the gauge 10 psi is really correct - that is, that house pressure is indeed abnormally low - or use a separate external water pressure gauge to check.

Lost air charge in the water tank won't lower the pressure the pump delivers - but it will cause the pump to short cycle on and off too often.

If pressure really is low and the pump is running (probably constantly if power is on to it) then I'd look for a damaged pump, low voltage to the pump, or a well piping leak, or low water in the well that is simply not returning water to the building.

If you shut off the system for a few hours or longer and then the pump is able to develop pressure I suspect the problem is the well flow rate.

Question:

(July 4, 2012) Ron said:

My pump waters the yard and sometimes the pump will kick off when a circuit tries to start. I suspect the pressure switch. If I restart the pump the circuit works fine. I have recently replaced the surge tank

Question: no water - help me?

(July 29, 2012) kmj said:

just installed a new system pump water tank and no water help

Reply:

KMJ

The best approach I can suggest to your "no water" question is to start with the diagnostics found at

WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR - home

Question: pump won't kick on and breakers trip

(Aug 23, 2012) CSW said:

I have a 2HP Franklin Electric Control Box. The pump works and fills my tank to 40+psi, but will not kick on when the pressure drops. Both the main and overload protectors are tripped, I reset them, and the pump kicks on. Is it the Square D Pressure Switch, something in the control box, or both?

(Oct 1, 2012) Anonymous said:

I have replaced my pressure switch 4 tmes in the last 30 days. This just started happening. So, I replaced my pump. But again, the switch just blew out again. Something is burning up the contacts in my switch, causing it to quit working. What is the problem

Reply:

Sounds like a seized pump motor or wiring short that's tripping the breaker. This can also occur if the well has run out of water or the well screen is clogged, causing the motor to overheat or causing damage to the pump impeller or bearings.

Question:

(Sept 7, 2012) Jay said:

I have a private well with pump in the ground about 180'. Recently, the pressure switch will shut off when we use two or more water sources ( hose, sink, shower etc ) and I have to reset it by lifting the manual over ride lever on the side of the pressure switch slightly until pump kicks back on. If we only use sink or shower, we are good. We have normal pressure when it is working and do not have low pressure at any time. It just shuts down completely. Circuit breaker does not trip. We replaced the grey control box on the wall next to the pressure tank and have also pulled the pump to make sure it was working properly. Tapping on the pressure tank gives me hollow sound at top half and solid near bottom which leads me to believe it is not logged. Tank pressure is about 29 lbs.

My question is why the pressure switch keeps shutting down and needs to be manually turned back on. It was replaced with a new one but problem continues.

We have always had good water pressure in the past and were able to use several faucets or hoses at one time. Not sure what happened. Now if we use outside hose and kitchen sink, it will shut down within a minute or so, sometimes almost immediately.

Any help would be appreciated.

(Feb 12, 2014) Janee said:

Ours is pretty much the same as Jay's question below! We have a Square D 9013FSG2M4 20/40 Switch to replace the previous which was bouncing (burned contacts), to accommodate about a 32gal. water tank. Now the VERY new replacement will never Cut In (engage) on like it's supposed to after dropping in pressure. We even replaced the gauge itself just today with new one, and tried adjusting the deferential small/large pressure nuts in back. Still the switch will not Cut In (engage) unless we turn the Override Lever up.

However, at times even then it wants to kick almost immediately into Cut Off. So again, we made some adjustments. Where at first it kept shutting off at like 38psi, then lowered after some fiddling, to about 43psi. We are still trying to figure out how to get the thing to Cut In after the pressure gets to a certain point, say like when taking a shower, so the water doesn't keep cutting off.

Do you have any suggestions as to what we are doing wrong, how to adjust to stop this from happening? We appreciate this greatly! Thank you

thought I typed 33psi. Didn't mean to have 43psi typed in!

Reply:

Is it possible that the switch is mounted on a small 1/8" pipe nipple or that it's sensor receives water pressure through a small diameter tube?

If the sensor port on the switch doesn't feel the water pressure correctly that can cause the trouble you describe. Or, of course it may be another issue

Reader follow-up:

The way it's set right now (this new switch), it shouldn't run because it's settings (the Large spring adjustment) and the differential are completely different on the old switch compared to this new one! The differential on the old switch seems set lower (nut-wise), and a little more-so lower on the large spring, all compared to the new switch we recently bought to replace.

Not to mention this place we live in, we may as well live in another dimension since whoever built it, did so bassackwards, lol!

(Feb 12, 2014) Janee said:

Also, regarding what you said about clogging, would it be possible for ice in the pipes to cause this? It has been really cold outside, and a few times we had to use a Torpedo Heater to thaw some of them out.

P.P.S. Even if water still seems to be flowing through the faucets, and the small pipe beneath the switch, could the possible presence of ice cause this as if it were a clog? We checked to make sure there wasn't any debris and what not. As far as we could tell, everything was clear.

Question: we run out of water

(Oct 8, 2012) Pierre said:

Replaces old water tank from 20 gallons to 30 keeping the same 1/2 HP jet pump and cut/ in cut out pressure. Pressure is higher but now we run out of water when showering or flushing the toilet and doing the dishes. How can we fix this HELP!!!

(Mar 19, 2014) Anonymous said:

Not getting no pressure on gauge to keep pressure switch running

Reply:

Pierre your well may be one with limited flow rate. See

WELL FLOW RATE

or

NO WATER PRESSURE

Anon I'd like to help but don't understand the question. If you mean that the pressure switch is not responding to changes in water pressure then perhaps the switch mounting tube or bottom sensor port are debris clogged. If that's the case replace those parts.

Question: ok to re-use old wiring when installing a new well pump control?

(Feb 4, 2014) ardena said:

this female thanks you for all the info you have give everyone. I bought a new pressure switch and gauge .Is it safe to use the same wiring from the old one? I enjoy doing things that challenge me. Thanks again

Reply:

Ardena,

WATCH OUT for getting electrocuted working on electrical wiring - make sure and confirm by test that power is off before you touch anything. A mistake can shock you, kill you, or burn the house down. I'd make that warning to anybody.

That scary message out of the way, if electrical wiring to a water pump control switch is not damaged say by overheating, nicks, cuts in insulation, etc. then normally it is re-used to power the new switch.

Read the instructions that come with the switch, including warnings about wiring safety; also, regardless of whether or not a person is competent or knows how to make electrical wiring connections, note that in some jurisdictions that work is by local code something required to be done by a licensed electrician, and inspected by the electrical inspector. This is being a bit fussy I know, but the consequences of a mistake are serious.

Question: addinga pressure tank to lawn sprinkler system

(Mar 21, 2014) Jim said:

Adding a pressure tank and switch to my lawn sprinkler system. The tank and switch will be next to house under the eve. Just a little concern that the switch will be exposed to the rain when it is blowing from that direction. will this be a problem?

Reply:

Jim, unless all of the wiring, junction boxes, and electrical controls planned for your hook-up are rated for outdoor use and weather exposure your installation will be unsave and risks electrocuting someone. So in my opinion, yes this will be a problem.

Question: water in the well but not in the house

(May 4, 2014) Anonymous said:

I have water at my well but not at my house ant he pressure gage will not rise? Any help out there? Walter

Reply:

Anon, please see the diagnostic suggestions at NO WATER PRESSURE and let me know if questions remain.

Walter if you've checked the
WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE

article in the More Reading Links above and are still stuck, try replacing the pressure switch. That is, if your pump is working and has power the switch could be debris clogged.

Question: buy separate contact points to replace in well pressure control switch

(18 hours ago) Jeff said:

Greetings, is the Well Pump Switch Contacts sold separately?

Reply:

Jeff, the standard repair is to replace the pressure control switch. I wouldn't try replacing just the contacts, nor does the manufacturer recommend sanding or filing burned contact points. The loss of plating means the ground off surface won't last long.

Question: water pump cycles on and off at cut-out pressure

(June 23, 2014) Normand said:

Jet pump works fine but when I started it up this year is does something that it did not do previously.

When [the water pump] reaches the max pressure and shuts off, it starts again for 4-5 seconds the shuts off. Why does it go on and then off a second time once it reaches the max pressure?

Reply:

Normand,

Possibly burned contacts, debris clogging a sensor port on the switch, water running in the building, or something else I've not thought-of.

Question:

(May 25, 2014) Jeff said:
Greetings, is the Well Pump Switch Contacts sold separately?

Reply:

Jeff, the standard repair is to replace the pressure control switch. I wouldn't try replacing just the contacts, nor does the manufacturer recommend sanding or filing burned contact points. The loss of plating means the ground off surface won't last long.

Question: municipal water system booster pump won't cut-in - manually turned on or off

(June 3, 2014) Tee Bee said:
Booster pump connected to municipal system will not cut in automatically must be manually turned on and then off, WHY ? Possible Causes ?

Reply:

TB

If the pressure switch is a model including a safety cutout it may be shutting down because someone set the cutout higher than the pump can attain. Or there was no water for a time.

Or the switch had failed.

Watch out: what you are describing sounds unsafe.

Question: should pressure gauge say zero?

(July 19, 2014) Anonymous said:
Does the pressure gauge supposed to stay on zero when water is shut off? When turned on it goes to 40.

Reply:

Anon

The pressure gauge, mounted on supply piping or on the water tank, will read the system water pressure as it varies with pump on or off. If your gauge sticks it may be that its inlet port is clogging. I'd try replacing it.

Question: alternating hot and cold shower

(July 24, 2014) jim said:
I recently replaced our pressure tank, hot water tank and pump switch. The shower water runs hot for a while then ice cold. I have checked the pressure tank = 28 PSI cut in is at 32 cut out is at 50. Trying to adjust the pressure switch does nothing - what else could cause temperature change?

Reply:

This sounds like an anti-scald valve problem unless water pressure is varying for both hot and cold simultaneously.

Question: pressure keeps building when contactors open ?

(July 24, 2014) Anonymous said:
I changed pressure switch and it operates correctly, water pressure continues to build after contacters open?

Reply:

Either you've got an artesian well at high pressure, some other pressurized water source, or the pump is mis wired and not turning off.

Watch out, this is dangerous as you could burst a water tank or pipe.

Question: pressure switch is turning on and off rapidly - pulsing pump, pulsing water pressure

(July 31, 2014) David said:
Replaced switch recently. Now switch keeps fluttering on and off real fast. What can I do to fix this problem?

(Sept 27, 2014) Barb said:
My pump (like) pulses every minute or so just to come on then shuts off!! Been doing that ALL night!

Reply:

See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING

Question: Is it a possibility that the low pressure cut in switch/pump can not keep up with water out flow of a faucet

(Sept 6, 2014) Pam said:
Is it a possibility that the low pressure cut in switch/pump can not keep up with water out flow of a faucet that is located at the pump house?
Whenever I turn on the pump house faucet, the pressure starts to go down. when it reaches the low pressure cut in (20psi), the pump does not kick in...but the manual pressure switch lever can be used to bring the pressure back up by holding the lever for a couple of minutes. The other hose bibs located farther away from the pump house do not seem to cause this problem, and the low pressure switch functions properly.

Reply:

If the pressure falls below the cut-in and the switch does not turn on the pump I suspect a debris clogged or otherwise failing pump switch.

Question:

(Oct 16, 2014) Nick Lambert said:
I have a pumped domestic water system. A few months ago I had a new automic water pump control fitted (I think this is also call a pressure compensator).

All worked fine until about 2 wks ago when we had no pressure at all. I did not realise that this contraption had a reset button so I pulled the plug & replaced it, the pump kicked in & re-pressurised the system. Since then it has cut out several times & is becoming a real nuisance.
Also, I now know about the reset button but pressing this does not fix the problem. The only fix is to unplug & then re-plug. So far this works & seems to be a solution but I am afraid that one day it will not restart!

Reply:

Sounds as if the pump protector is detecting low water in the well - doing its job, or else you've got a defective control installatin.

Question: lubricate sticking pump switch contacts?

(Nov 1, 2014) Peter W. Bednar said:
Is there a lubricant that can be applied to the switch contacts to make them less likely to stick?

Reply:

Peter

Indeed there are conductive thermal greases used in some electrical applications but

Watch out: I would not for a minute modify a pump pressure control switch with lubricant thinking I was fixing a problem. More likely the cause is elsewhere - or the switch needs replacement. For example, debris clogging can make a pressure switch fail to cut in or cut out as it should

Question: Jim's new pressure tank - pump won't run

JIM said:
i INSTALLED A NEW PRESSURE TANK.The contacts on the pressure switch stays open (the pump doesn"t run). When I force the contacts closed the pump runs ,the pressure builds up then the pump shuts off and does not restart when the pressure drops. I close the contacts and it will run until the pressure builds up HELP

Reply:

Jim

Check the actual pressure in the water tank. For example if the tank's air charge pressure is above the pressure switch cut-in pressure then the switch will never turn on the pump.

Also check that the switch is actually sensing tank or system pressure; a clog in its sensor tube or mounting port or pressure sensing port on the underside of the switch would prevent it from working; if there is debris or silt in your water supply these problems are more likely.

Question: pump runs, cuts off normally, then pressure suddenly drops from 30 to zero

(Jan 23, 2012) kevin said:

hello, i just replaced my guage, my 30/50 switch, got my air pressure in my tank to 28psi. my pump runs and then cuts out at 50psi. I turn my water on and watch my guage. When the pressure get to 30psi, it hovers a second then plummets to 0. I never here my pressure switch click on at 30. Please help, any ideas?

(Apr 30, 2012) John said:

Hello, I just moved into a new house and my water will be running fine then all of a sudden I will have none. I checked the pressure tank and found that if I move the Maintained Manual Cut-in Lever or Manual Cut Out Lever I will get my pressure and water back. This seems to happen at random and I was wondering if this was likely to be caused by a bad pressure control switch?

(May 28, 2012) Jon: said:

I have my well set at 60/40 .. Turns off at 60 I turn on water when it gets to 40 elec. turns on but after a few seconds it drops to 0 . Water trickles out. Can you help me with this problem

Reply:

John and Kevin: the sensor port on the bottom of your pressure control switch may be clogged - try replacing the switch and the mounting tube as well.

Jon,
We have too little data for a sure diagnosis, but the "off at 60 psi, on at 40 psi" pressure readings and switch on-off response sounds right. But when actual pressure drops to zero very quickly I suspect a waterlogged pressure tank or a clogged pressure switch sensor that is not sensing pressure correctly. On occasion we see a clog or damaged tank bladder interfering with water exiting the tank but I wouldn't think that would be pressure-dependent.

Try first checking system water pressure at an independent location using a test gauge at a nearby hose bib. Tell us what you see.

Question: well pump would not stop - problem traced to clogged well screen

(May 2, 2012) Denis(satisfaction) said:

I had a pump that would not shut down...this site allowed me to go through each possible potential cause and after a few visits to the site and about 2 hours I pulled the 1/2"stone out of the internal injector screen and we have water. Thanks a million. Happy Wife Happy Life!:)

Reply:

Nice going Denis.

Indeed without a more sophisticated well pump controller that monitors current draw, we can't tell the difference betweeen a well that has run out of water and a well whose foot valve screen has become debris clogged, not allowing water to enter the pump.

Question: pump cycles on and off right at the cut-out point

(June 12, 2012) matt said:

what would make the needle on the pressure gauge bounce badly enough to turn the pump off then on 2 or 3 times at the shut off point

Reply:

Matt:

A clogged sensor port on the bottom of the pressure control switch can cause the problem you describe.

Also check for burned contact points on the pump relay. If you see burned relay contacts replace the switch.

...


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Publisher's Google+ Page by Daniel Friedman