Pumptrol and similar water pressure control switch repair kits.

This article series describes how to repair a water presure control switch that sticks on, off, or chatters or is otherwise not working properly, causing loss of water pressure or irregular in cycling on and off.

We discuss how to diagnose problems with the water pump control and how to fix them by correcting an underlying problem, by replacing a bad pressure control switch, or by replacing switch parts such as bad contacts or diaphragm.

Buy & Install Replacement Parts & Repair Kits for Pumptrol® and Similar Water Pump Control Switches: relays & diaphragm kits

Reader Question: is there a pump control switch repair kit to just replace the contact points?

Is there a kit where you can just replace the contact points only ?

Thanks - R.J. 4 November 2015 [by private email]

[Click to enlarge any image]

Above and below are close-up photos of the contact points in a pressure control switch. Above is a close-up photo of the contact points in a Pumptrol® 9013FSG2J20BP pressure control switch showing them in brand new condition.

This is a 20/40 psi (or 138/276 kPa) pressure control switch used on water supply systems.

Above: this pressure control switch, recently-installed in a Two Harbors MN home is in good condition.

If you click to enlarge the photo you'll see normal wear on the surface of the electrical contacts or points in this Pumptrol® switch by Square D.

Reply: Pumptrol® repair kits from Square D - Schneider Electric

When you are looking for a replacement Pumptrol® switch or repair kit, you may have to speak Pumptrol-ese to the children waiting on you at some suppliers. Just asking for a pressure switch kit may not do the trick. Our photo illustrates where we found a few orphaned Pumptrol® switches and no repair kits in stock at a New York building supplier. You may have better luck at a plumbing supply outlet.

Although a wide range of repair kits for pressure control switches are listed by the manufacturer (Square D or Schneider Electric in the case of the Pumptrol switch), looking in several building supply outlets I could not find a contact-only replacement for Pumptrol® switches, possibly because the disassembly - reassembly is enough trouble that replacement of the whole assembly is more economical. There are also replacements for the bottom pressure switch pressure sensor but the same argument pertains.

Really? When you figure that the contact points kit retails for about $13.00 (U.S.D.) and an entire Pumptrol® switch retails for $16.00 to $17.00 (U.S.D.), and if you picture your plumber or electrician's chubby fingers dropping little spring clips and parts you can guess why some repair folks may prefer to install a whole new pressure control switch.

Certainly if your pump pressure controller is wet, rusted, corroded such as the model we show just below, it makes more sense to replace the entire assembly.

The details of how to remove and replace a well pump pressure control are at PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE for reinstalling the control.

However for fellows who don't want to have to remove and replace a pressure switch, here in a table given below is the data you'll need to order a replacement set of contact points or diaphragm included in a typical pressure switch repair kit.

I found some Square-D replacement kits for contact points at Grainger (www.grainger.com) such as the kit parts illustrated below. This kit is is Square D part # 9998PC241 that you'll see from the table below is intended to replace contacts in Pressuretrol switches 9013FHG2 through 19, 42 through 49, and all FSG-series pressuretrol switches.

Grainger shows just the contact points in this repair kit but the manufacture's repair parts kits table for these switches notes that the Pumptrol repair kit includes both the contact points and a replacement diaphragm. For other pressure switch models you'll need one of the other parts kits shown in the table.

[Click to enlarge any image]

...

Ok so you want to go ahead and replace the contact points in the relay of your pressure control switch, taking note of our warnings above about a bit of fiddling with small parts, and more warnings immediately above (left) about death by electrocution.

In the parts explosion photo for the contact relay repair kit you'll see some little parts (connectors and clips circled in red) and the contact point sets (green arrow) you'll want to handle with care - don't lose them or you're sunk.

Grainger describes the pressure switch relay contact repair kit (above right, $13.19 U.S.D.) as follows:

This water pump pressure switch features diaphragm-actuated, standard-action contacts to open on rising pressure, and reverse-action contacts to open on falling pressure.

It is designed for direct control of electrically driven pumps and can be used with motor starters to control higher horsepower motors. - Grainger (2015)

Watch Out: Safety warning - Shock Hazards: To remove a pump control/pressure switch remember to turn off electrical power, and using a neon tester or VOM double check to make SURE that electrical power is off, and taped-off so that on one turns it on and causes you to get shocked.

Working around electricity and plumbing is particularly dangerous because of the increased chance of touching a live electrical wire while touching grounded plumbing piping.

Below is the complete list of pressure switch repair parts kits provided by Schneider Electric. You'll see that there are four different contact replacement kits depending on which pressure control switch you are repairing.

We asked Schneider electric for advice and received this immediate and helpful reply from Carey Ripple at Square D customer support.

The recommendations for repair are to replace contacts or diaphragms, both of which are included in the replacement contact kit. The only other repair part is the brass fitting for compressor head pressure release on the 9013FHG.:

You can contact Schneider, the owner of the SquareD brand that produces these switches to ask directly where you might buy a repair kit, and - do keep me informed as what you learn will help other readers. Here's the company's contact information as well as a link to a troubleshooting guide for these pressure control switches.

Above you can see the two screws that hold the contact point assembly in place in the pressure control switch.

Click to enlarge the photo above to see the contact points assembly in place in the pressure control switch.

• Schneider Electric Pumptrol Product Line 8001 Knightdale Boulevard Knightdale, NC 27545-9023 e-mail: control.support@us.schneider-electric.com Telephone: 1-888-SquareD (1-888-778-2733)
• "Preventive Maintenance and TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES for Class 9013F and 9013G Pressure Switches" [PDF], Square D, Schneider Electric, (2007), Op. CIt. Abstract:
  Temp

Other Pump Pressure Control Switch Brands & Information Sources are at

WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH MANUALS

Building Water Pressure Set by Adjusting or Repairing the Water Pump Pressure Control Switch

• How to Adjust Water Pump Pressure: The detailed, step by step procedure for inspecting and adjusting the water pressure control switch is discussed in detail
  
  at WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS.
• Diagnosing Water Pump Short Cycling on and off: If your water pump is clicking on and off too often or quite rapidly
  
  see SHORT CYCLING.
• Diagnosing & Repairing Lost Air in the Water Tank: The problem of lost air in the water pressure tank along with how to correct that condition are discussed beginning
  
  at SIGNS OF AIR LOSS.
• Diagnosing & Repairing a Water Pressure Control or Water Pump Control Switch: We discuss diagnosing and repairing a water pressure control switch that sticks "on" or "off" or simply won't operate,
  
  at water pump Pressure Switch Repairs.
• Replacing a Bad Water Pressure Control Switch is discussed step by step
  
  at PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE
• How to match the water pressure tank initial pressure to the pressure control switch cut-in pressure:
  
  at WATER TANK BLADDER PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT we discuss fine tuning the pump pressure control switch to work perfectly with the exact air pressure pre-charge in a bladder type well tank.
• General water pressure problem diagnosis:
  
  see WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE in table format listing nearly every cause of water pressure loss or well pump problem identification, diagnosis, and repair.

...

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Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

Question: well pump tank makes a noise after tank begins to fill

(June 28, 2011) elmer said:

Is a good article but i still with my question because i did not find the answer . My well pump tank make a noise after the tank begins to fill again?..The pressure control works fine.

Reply:

It might be normal to hear a noise at the pressure tank when the pump is running, as water is flowing into the tank. If you hear air gurgling then there may be a leak in your well line causing the pump to also send air into the tank.
See

• AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES

Question: pump control relay clicks clicks clicks at end of cycle

(July 19, 2011) carter said:

i have a question,,i have a new installed jet pump...6 months,,when i flush my toilet my pump will run for maybe 20/30 seconds,,,it runs fine,,but when its right at the end,,the pressure points will snap on and off right fast 3/4 times,,i adjusted the screw and it worked good for a day now its doing the same thing,,,,runs smooth until right the end,,,then click,,click,click,,

Reply:

Pump pressure control switch contact bouncing?

It sounds as if the contact switch points may be burned; take a look, or try replacing the switch. I am guessing in that direction because at the end of a pump cycle even if the pressure sensor of the switch is not working properly I wouldn't expect pressure sense to drop so far as to fall below the cut-in right at the END of the pump cycle.

Question: pressure drops to zero and pump stops unless manually re-set

(Aug 30, 2011) Janice said:

I have a question. We have a pressure control switch lever (as shown above) that we need to re-gauge if we run two faucets (or demand too much water) at one time. The pressure will drop to zero and we need to engage it in order to get the water working again. Any suggestions on what would be causing this? This also happens if we run the faucet in the tub or the washer. Thanks!

Reply:

Janice if your water pressure is dropping to zero, the problem sounds like more than just adjusting the pressure control switch. It sounds as if the well pump is not keeping up with the water flow rate demand in the building. Or your well itself cannot keep up.

Before trying to adjust the pressure control switch I'd check out the well flow rate itself.

Question: pressure drops below the pump cut-in set pressure before the pump comes on

(Sept 5, 2011) Jim said:

I've adjusted cut on and off pressures, etc. My problem is that when the pressure drops through the cut in point, the switch "tries" to trip. The contacts close briefly, pump just starts to turn, then everything stops and pressure falls. I can start it with the manual switch and it will run fine . Pressure tank is brand new, and adjusted to about two pounds below cut in pressure. Any ideas?

(Oct 18, 2011) Kerry said:

Pressure control switch isn’t turning on the pump - when using the manual cut in switch the pump isn’t turning on either, however, if you manually use a screwdriver and push the contacts down you can get the pump to engage. hold the contacts down and you can get the tank up to pressure, however as soon you run out of pressure you have to go down with your screwdrivers and get the pressure back up
Hmmmm whats going on?

Reply: check for a debris clogged pump pressure switch or sensor port or tubing

Jim,
I realize there could be another problem, such as with the pump itself, but I'd start by replacing the pressure switch. Also replace or clean out the switch mounting tube so we're sure it's properly sensing water pressure.

Kerry:

it's possible that the pressure sensing port on the bottom of your pressure control switch is clogged and not properly sensing water pressure. If the switch thinks that you are above the cut-off pressure it won't turn on the pump. Another possibility is that the switch contacts are burned.

I'd try replacing the switch and making sure the little tube on which it mounts is also unblocked by rust or debris.

Question: pump came on for just 10 seconds

(Oct 21, 2011) Andrew said:

I have a relatively new Gould. Today I noticed the pressure was not right then it finally had no pressure. While in the pump house I re-booted the power. The pump came on for about 10 seconds and then shut off again. Again, I said it is about 3 1/2 years old and all the contacts I looked at look like the day it was put in. What is the most likely problem ? Pressure control switch - capacitor etc... Thanks for your help

(Jan 12, 2012) warren said:

my presure switch is tapping on/off on/off when i turn my tap on. what could be the cause?

Reply:

Andrew check the actual pressure in your system, then run water. Watch to see the pressure at which the pump cuts on. Then turn off water and watch to see the pressure at which the pump cuts off.

If the pump cuts off very quickly I suspect the water tank is water-logged - it's lost its air charge.

Warren,

See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING

(Feb 13, 2012) Rob said:

@Warren - two things come to mind that can cause that (as I just had the same problem). A bad pressure tank can cause your pump to kick in and out repeatedly while running water. The other potential problem is the setting on the pressure switch itself. If the in and out are too close it would cause this. If you haven't adjusted your pressure switch I would check the air pressure in your tank. If you press the valve down and get water, then you've most likely got a ruptured bladder in your tank.

Question: testing my pump switch I saw a spark, then everything went dead - how do I select a new pump switch

(Jan 11, 2012) Steve said:

Square D 9013FSG 2 pressure control switch. While testing with a VOM probe, I got a small spark and everything went from dead to working normally (I think...at least the water is back on). If I eventually need to replace this switch, are there several varieties of the 9013FSG 2? How do I know what version to get? The tank is a red AMTROL H20W-TO WATERWORKER 9015-585 in a residential installation.

Reply:

Steve, just match the new switch to the original one by

brand and model or part number

equivalent brand and model chosen by the factory pre-set cut-im and cut out pressure

Question: new pressure switch not working

(Jan 12, 2012) Archie said:

just repaced breaker, wire, pressure regulator switch on home well pump and still nothing works. I checked the gauge tube for clogs and it was clear, when I open the contact points, there is no spark, but there is power going to them, what am I missing

Reply:

Archie, you need to run water until pressure in the pressure tank drops below the cut-in pressure set in the control.

Question: pump runs, cuts off normally, then pressure suddenly drops from 30 to zero

(Jan 23, 2012) kevin said:

hello, i just replaced my guage, my 30/50 switch, got my air pressure in my tank to 28psi. my pump runs and then cuts out at 50psi. I turn my water on and watch my guage. When the pressure get to 30psi, it hovers a second then plummets to 0. I never here my pressure switch click on at 30. Please help, any ideas?

(Apr 30, 2012) John said:

Hello, I just moved into a new house and my water will be running fine then all of a sudden I will have none. I checked the pressure tank and found that if I move the Maintained Manual Cut-in Lever or Manual Cut Out Lever I will get my pressure and water back. This seems to happen at random and I was wondering if this was likely to be caused by a bad pressure control switch?

(May 28, 2012) Jon: said:

I have my well set at 60/40 .. Turns off at 60 I turn on water when it gets to 40 elec. turns on but after a few seconds it drops to 0 . Water trickles out. Can you help me with this problem

Reply:

John and Kevin: the sensor port on the bottom of your pressure control switch may be clogged - try replacing the switch and the mounting tube as well.

Jon,
We have too little data for a sure diagnosis, but the "off at 60 psi, on at 40 psi" pressure readings and switch on-off response sounds right. But when actual pressure drops to zero very quickly I suspect a waterlogged pressure tank or a clogged pressure switch sensor that is not sensing pressure correctly. On occasion we see a clog or damaged tank bladder interfering with water exiting the tank but I wouldn't think that would be pressure-dependent.

Try first checking system water pressure at an independent location using a test gauge at a nearby hose bib. Tell us what you see.

Question: well pump would not stop - problem traced to clogged well screen

(May 2, 2012) Denis(satisfaction) said:

I had a pump that would not shut down...this site allowed me to go through each possible potential cause and after a few visits to the site and about 2 hours I pulled the 1/2"stone out of the internal injector screen and we have water. Thanks a million. Happy Wife Happy Life!:)

Reply:

Nice going Denis.

Indeed without a more sophisticated well pump controller that monitors current draw, we can't tell the difference betweeen a well that has run out of water and a well whose foot valve screen has become debris clogged, not allowing water to enter the pump.

Question: pump cycles on and off right at the cut-out point

(June 12, 2012) matt said:

what would make the needle on the pressure gauge bounce badly enough to turn the pump off then on 2 or 3 times at the shut off point

Reply:

Matt:

A clogged sensor port on the bottom of the pressure control switch can cause the problem you describe.

Also check for burned contact points on the pump relay. If you see burned relay contacts replace the switch.

Question: do I pre-pressurize the empty water tank air charge or add water then air pressure?

(June 12, 2012) Anonymous said:

ihave a 30/50 switch so i need 28 psi in the water tank. do i put the air in at 28psi on an empty tank of water or add the water then try to add air up to 28psi?

Reply:

Anon:

if you are setting air pressure in a water pressure tank in the range you describe, the assumption is that the tank has been emptied of water.

On most pump and tank systems if the water tank is a bladderless system and if the air charge is too low, you can add air after water is in the tank as well. Just watch the gauge. If you add too much air typically the excess air will flow out at the nearest faucet when you next run water.

See WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD

Question: well pump won't get above 10 psi

(June 17, 2012) Jamie McGehee said:

my new pump worked fine for about a week. Then all at once,my pump is running but pressure wont go above 10psi
I have read up on pressure switches but dont really think this is the problem because my pump is running and most problems I read about have to do with pumps not running. So could this be the pressure tank being saturated even though I have the right psi in tank. Or could this be an internal problem even thought the pump is only one week old. Any input would be appreciated.

Reply:

Jamie, double check that the gauge 10 psi is really correct - that is, that house pressure is indeed abnormally low - or use a separate external water pressure gauge to check.

Lost air charge in the water tank won't lower the pressure the pump delivers - but it will cause the pump to short cycle on and off too often.

If pressure really is low and the pump is running (probably constantly if power is on to it) then I'd look for a damaged pump, low voltage to the pump, or a well piping leak, or low water in the well that is simply not returning water to the building.

If you shut off the system for a few hours or longer and then the pump is able to develop pressure I suspect the problem is the well flow rate.

Question:

(July 4, 2012) Ron said:

My pump waters the yard and sometimes the pump will kick off when a circuit tries to start. I suspect the pressure switch. If I restart the pump the circuit works fine. I have recently replaced the surge tank

Question: no water - help me?

(July 29, 2012) kmj said:

just installed a new system pump water tank and no water help

Reply:

KMJ

The best approach I can suggest to your "no water" question is to start with the diagnostics found at

WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR - home

Question: pump won't kick on and breakers trip

(Aug 23, 2012) CSW said:

I have a 2HP Franklin Electric Control Box. The pump works and fills my tank to 40+psi, but will not kick on when the pressure drops. Both the main and overload protectors are tripped, I reset them, and the pump kicks on. Is it the Square D Pressure Switch, something in the control box, or both?

(Oct 1, 2012) Anonymous said:

I have replaced my pressure switch 4 tmes in the last 30 days. This just started happening. So, I replaced my pump. But again, the switch just blew out again. Something is burning up the contacts in my switch, causing it to quit working. What is the problem

Reply:

Sounds like a seized pump motor or wiring short that's tripping the breaker. This can also occur if the well has run out of water or the well screen is clogged, causing the motor to overheat or causing damage to the pump impeller or bearings.

Question:

(Sept 7, 2012) Jay said:

I have a private well with pump in the ground about 180'. Recently, the pressure switch will shut off when we use two or more water sources ( hose, sink, shower etc ) and I have to reset it by lifting the manual over ride lever on the side of the pressure switch slightly until pump kicks back on. If we only use sink or shower, we are good. We have normal pressure when it is working and do not have low pressure at any time. It just shuts down completely. Circuit breaker does not trip. We replaced the grey control box on the wall next to the pressure tank and have also pulled the pump to make sure it was working properly. Tapping on the pressure tank gives me hollow sound at top half and solid near bottom which leads me to believe it is not logged. Tank pressure is about 29 lbs.

My question is why the pressure switch keeps shutting down and needs to be manually turned back on. It was replaced with a new one but problem continues.

We have always had good water pressure in the past and were able to use several faucets or hoses at one time. Not sure what happened. Now if we use outside hose and kitchen sink, it will shut down within a minute or so, sometimes almost immediately.

Any help would be appreciated.

(Feb 12, 2014) Janee said:

Ours is pretty much the same as Jay's question below! We have a Square D 9013FSG2M4 20/40 Switch to replace the previous which was bouncing (burned contacts), to accommodate about a 32gal. water tank. Now the VERY new replacement will never Cut In (engage) on like it's supposed to after dropping in pressure. We even replaced the gauge itself just today with new one, and tried adjusting the deferential small/large pressure nuts in back. Still the switch will not Cut In (engage) unless we turn the Override Lever up.

However, at times even then it wants to kick almost immediately into Cut Off. So again, we made some adjustments. Where at first it kept shutting off at like 38psi, then lowered after some fiddling, to about 43psi. We are still trying to figure out how to get the thing to Cut In after the pressure gets to a certain point, say like when taking a shower, so the water doesn't keep cutting off.

Do you have any suggestions as to what we are doing wrong, how to adjust to stop this from happening? We appreciate this greatly! Thank you

thought I typed 33psi. Didn't mean to have 43psi typed in!

Reply:

Is it possible that the switch is mounted on a small 1/8" pipe nipple or that it's sensor receives water pressure through a small diameter tube?

If the sensor port on the switch doesn't feel the water pressure correctly that can cause the trouble you describe. Or, of course it may be another issue

Reader follow-up:

The way it's set right now (this new switch), it shouldn't run because it's settings (the Large spring adjustment) and the differential are completely different on the old switch compared to this new one! The differential on the old switch seems set lower (nut-wise), and a little more-so lower on the large spring, all compared to the new switch we recently bought to replace.

Not to mention this place we live in, we may as well live in another dimension since whoever built it, did so bassackwards, lol!

(Feb 12, 2014) Janee said:

Also, regarding what you said about clogging, would it be possible for ice in the pipes to cause this? It has been really cold outside, and a few times we had to use a Torpedo Heater to thaw some of them out.

P.P.S. Even if water still seems to be flowing through the faucets, and the small pipe beneath the switch, could the possible presence of ice cause this as if it were a clog? We checked to make sure there wasn't any debris and what not. As far as we could tell, everything was clear.

Question: we run out of water

(Oct 8, 2012) Pierre said:

Replaces old water tank from 20 gallons to 30 keeping the same 1/2 HP jet pump and cut/ in cut out pressure. Pressure is higher but now we run out of water when showering or flushing the toilet and doing the dishes. How can we fix this HELP!!!

(Mar 19, 2014) Anonymous said:

Not getting no pressure on gauge to keep pressure switch running

Reply:

Pierre your well may be one with limited flow rate. See

WELL FLOW RATE

or

NO WATER PRESSURE

Anon I'd like to help but don't understand the question. If you mean that the pressure switch is not responding to changes in water pressure then perhaps the switch mounting tube or bottom sensor port are debris clogged. If that's the case replace those parts.

Question: ok to re-use old wiring when installing a new well pump control?

(Feb 4, 2014) ardena said:

this female thanks you for all the info you have give everyone. I bought a new pressure switch and gauge .Is it safe to use the same wiring from the old one? I enjoy doing things that challenge me. Thanks again

Reply:

Ardena,

WATCH OUT for getting electrocuted working on electrical wiring - make sure and confirm by test that power is off before you touch anything. A mistake can shock you, kill you, or burn the house down. I'd make that warning to anybody.

That scary message out of the way, if electrical wiring to a water pump control switch is not damaged say by overheating, nicks, cuts in insulation, etc. then normally it is re-used to power the new switch.

Read the instructions that come with the switch, including warnings about wiring safety; also, regardless of whether or not a person is competent or knows how to make electrical wiring connections, note that in some jurisdictions that work is by local code something required to be done by a licensed electrician, and inspected by the electrical inspector. This is being a bit fussy I know, but the consequences of a mistake are serious.

Question: addinga pressure tank to lawn sprinkler system

(Mar 21, 2014) Jim said:

Adding a pressure tank and switch to my lawn sprinkler system. The tank and switch will be next to house under the eve. Just a little concern that the switch will be exposed to the rain when it is blowing from that direction. will this be a problem?

Reply:

Jim, unless all of the wiring, junction boxes, and electrical controls planned for your hook-up are rated for outdoor use and weather exposure your installation will be unsave and risks electrocuting someone. So in my opinion, yes this will be a problem.

Question: water in the well but not in the house

(May 4, 2014) Anonymous said:

I have water at my well but not at my house ant he pressure gage will not rise? Any help out there? Walter

Reply:

Anon, please see the diagnostic suggestions

at NO WATER PRESSURE and let me know if questions remain.

Walter if you've checked the

WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE

article At the ARTICLE INDEX at the end of this article and are still stuck, try replacing the pressure switch. That is, if your pump is working and has power the switch could be debris clogged.

Question: buy separate contact points to replace in well pressure control switch

(18 hours ago) Jeff said:

Greetings, is the Well Pump Switch Contacts sold separately?

Reply:

Jeff, the standard repair is to replace the pressure control switch. I wouldn't try replacing just the contacts, nor does the manufacturer recommend sanding or filing burned contact points. The loss of plating means the ground off surface won't last long.

Question: water pump cycles on and off at cut-out pressure

(June 23, 2014) Normand said:

Jet pump works fine but when I started it up this year is does something that it did not do previously.

When [the water pump] reaches the max pressure and shuts off, it starts again for 4-5 seconds the shuts off. Why does it go on and then off a second time once it reaches the max pressure?

Reply:

Normand,

Possibly burned contacts, debris clogging a sensor port on the switch, water running in the building, or something else I've not thought-of.

Question:

(May 25, 2014) Jeff said:
Greetings, is the Well Pump Switch Contacts sold separately?

Reply:

Jeff, the standard repair is to replace the pressure control switch. I wouldn't try replacing just the contacts, nor does the manufacturer recommend sanding or filing burned contact points. The loss of plating means the ground off surface won't last long.

Question: municipal water system booster pump won't cut-in - manually turned on or off

(June 3, 2014) Tee Bee said:
Booster pump connected to municipal system will not cut in automatically must be manually turned on and then off, WHY ? Possible Causes ?

Reply:

TB

If the pressure switch is a model including a safety cutout it may be shutting down because someone set the cutout higher than the pump can attain. Or there was no water for a time.

Or the switch had failed.

Watch out: what you are describing sounds unsafe.

Question: should pressure gauge say zero?

(July 19, 2014) Anonymous said:
Does the pressure gauge supposed to stay on zero when water is shut off? When turned on it goes to 40.

Reply:

Anon

The pressure gauge, mounted on supply piping or on the water tank, will read the system water pressure as it varies with pump on or off. If your gauge sticks it may be that its inlet port is clogging. I'd try replacing it.

Question: alternating hot and cold shower

(July 24, 2014) jim said:
I recently replaced our pressure tank, hot water tank and pump switch. The shower water runs hot for a while then ice cold. I have checked the pressure tank = 28 PSI cut in is at 32 cut out is at 50. Trying to adjust the pressure switch does nothing - what else could cause temperature change?

Reply:

This sounds like an anti-scald valve problem unless water pressure is varying for both hot and cold simultaneously.

Question: pressure keeps building when contactors open ?

(July 24, 2014) Anonymous said:
I changed pressure switch and it operates correctly, water pressure continues to build after contacters open?

Reply:

Either you've got an artesian well at high pressure, some other pressurized water source, or the pump is mis wired and not turning off.

Watch out, this is dangerous as you could burst a water tank or pipe.

Question: pressure switch is turning on and off rapidly - pulsing pump, pulsing water pressure

(July 31, 2014) David said:
Replaced switch recently. Now switch keeps fluttering on and off real fast. What can I do to fix this problem?

(Sept 27, 2014) Barb said:
My pump (like) pulses every minute or so just to come on then shuts off!! Been doing that ALL night!

Reply:

See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING

Question: Is it a possibility that the low pressure cut in switch/pump can not keep up with water out flow of a faucet

(Sept 6, 2014) Pam said:
Is it a possibility that the low pressure cut in switch/pump can not keep up with water out flow of a faucet that is located at the pump house?
Whenever I turn on the pump house faucet, the pressure starts to go down. when it reaches the low pressure cut in (20psi), the pump does not kick in...but the manual pressure switch lever can be used to bring the pressure back up by holding the lever for a couple of minutes. The other hose bibs located farther away from the pump house do not seem to cause this problem, and the low pressure switch functions properly.

Reply:

If the pressure falls below the cut-in and the switch does not turn on the pump I suspect a debris clogged or otherwise failing pump switch.

Question:

(Oct 16, 2014) Nick Lambert said:
I have a pumped domestic water system. A few months ago I had a new automic water pump control fitted (I think this is also call a pressure compensator).

All worked fine until about 2 wks ago when we had no pressure at all. I did not realise that this contraption had a reset button so I pulled the plug & replaced it, the pump kicked in & re-pressurised the system. Since then it has cut out several times & is becoming a real nuisance.
Also, I now know about the reset button but pressing this does not fix the problem. The only fix is to unplug & then re-plug. So far this works & seems to be a solution but I am afraid that one day it will not restart!

Reply:

Sounds as if the pump protector is detecting low water in the well - doing its job, or else you've got a defective control installatin.

Question: lubricate sticking pump switch contacts?

(Nov 1, 2014) Peter W. Bednar said:
Is there a lubricant that can be applied to the switch contacts to make them less likely to stick?

Reply:

Peter

Indeed there are conductive thermal greases used in some electrical applications but

Watch out: I would not for a minute modify a pump pressure control switch with lubricant thinking I was fixing a problem. More likely the cause is elsewhere - or the switch needs replacement. For example, debris clogging can make a pressure switch fail to cut in or cut out as it should

Question: Jim's new pressure tank - pump won't run

JIM said:
i INSTALLED A NEW PRESSURE TANK.The contacts on the pressure switch stays open (the pump doesn"t run). When I force the contacts closed the pump runs ,the pressure builds up then the pump shuts off and does not restart when the pressure drops. I close the contacts and it will run until the pressure builds up HELP

Reply:

Jim

Check the actual pressure in the water tank. For example if the tank's air charge pressure is above the pressure switch cut-in pressure then the switch will never turn on the pump.

Also check that the switch is actually sensing tank or system pressure; a clog in its sensor tube or mounting port or pressure sensing port on the underside of the switch would prevent it from working; if there is debris or silt in your water supply these problems are more likely.

 

...

Continue reading at WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH REPAIRS - topic home, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

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PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH REPAIR KIT at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

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INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS

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