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One Line Jet Pump (C) Daniel Friedman Diagnostic Guide for Weak or NO Water Pressure - Table 1 of 3
Troubleshoot water pumps, pressure switches, & other causes of water pressure & flow trouble

This WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE series provides a table giving step by step checklist for diagnosing water pressure, water pump, and water well problems.

We give diagnostic and repair procedures for both municipal water supply problems and well water supply problems.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?

Table of Diagnostic Steps for Poor Water Pressure from a Pump & Well System

Checklist of water pressure problem diagnosis and repair steps. Well pump problem diagnostic checklist. Well water problem diagnostic checklist.

Water pressure loss or poor water problem diagnostic checklist. How to diagnose loss of water pressure or loss of water in a building - both municipal water supply and private well systems are addressed.

Article Series Contents


Keep in mind that if water is running elsewhere in the building (another shower, sink, dishwasher, clothes washer, garden hose, etc) then the water pressure you will observe at your location will usually be reduced.

Table 1: Pump Won't Start, Wont' Stop Running, or Cycles Rapidly

Well Pump Will Not Start  or  Pump Will Not Run

Well Pump Will Not Start 

or 

Pump Will Not Run

Check the steps in this table or go

to WATER PUMP WON'T START - home - for details.

Check that electrical power is turned on and being delivered to the pump control switch and to the pump.

  1. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse
  2. Check for low voltage
  3. Check for broken or disconnected electrical wires
  4. Check for a defective motor
  5. Check for a jammed or broken impeller assembly
  6. Check that the pressure switch is closed and sending power to the pump

If a check (with power off) shows that you cannot turn the pump impeller assembly the impeller or pump motor itself is bound and needs repair or replacement.

Other pump motors may fail to start if the motor has tripped a thermal overload switch (some may re-set automagically), or if the motor has a failed start/run capacitor.

If turning on the motor trips the circuit breaker or blows the fuse there is a wiring short circuit or a short circuit in the pump motor or controls.

Symptoms such as a humming motor means the pump has power but is not able to operate.

Watch out: turn off the pump in these cases to avoid further damage, shock or fire.

WATER PUMP ELECTRICAL SWITCHES - electrical power switches

ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH - the diagnostic table

ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE - how to test an electric motor

Check the water pressure at the tank & by using an independent pressure gauge (in case the tank gauge is stuck)

  1. Water pressure is below pressure switch cut-in pressure:

    1. If the Pressure Switch includes a low-pressure cut-out pump protection feature Hold the lever in the "Run" or "On" position. Pump should start.
      1. Keep holding the lever "on" until pressure is above the cut-in.
      2. Release the lever.
      3. If pump cuts out again then the water supply from the well is low.

        Do not keep running the pump or it may be damaged. Wait until the well has recovered and try again. (Hours or more).

    2. If the Pressure Switch does not have a pump protection feature:
      1. Leave the pump turned OFF to protect it from damage.
      2. Check the water level in the well - if low wait for the well to recover before turning the pump back on.


WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR - pump relay turns on pump or turns on a separate water pump relay

WATER PUMP RELAY SWITCH - heavy duty relay turns on submersible pump

WATER PUMP ELECTRICAL SWITCHES - electrical power switches

WATER PUMP DIAGNOSTIC FAQs - helps sort out problems with well pumps & booster pumps

The Form M4 (low pressure cut-out feature) is only available on the Square-D 9013FSG & 9013FYG pressure switches.

Schneider Electric offers this additional detail about the low pressure cutoff feature included in these two pressure control switch models:

The low pressure cutoff remains fixed at 10 psi below the low pressure cut-in for the pressure switch.

Although it is not independently adjustable, it will follow the low pressure set point.

However, the pressure switch will not be effective if the cut-in point is set below 10 psi. - Op. Cit.

 

Pressure switch does not turn on in response to drop in water pressure:
  1. Check for debris-clogged sensor port on the pressure switch diaphragm or mounting tube.

    Clean or replace these parts.
  2. Check for burned pressure switch contacts.
  3. Check for debris-blocked pressure switch contacts:

    mud dauber wasps, insects, crud in the switch can prevent its operation
  4. Check for incorrectly-adjusted pressure control switch Differential or Range Nut Adjustments
  5. Check for damaged pressure sensing diaphragm on the pressure control switch.
  6. If you have been fooling with the pressure control switch settings they may be adjusted out of range.

WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS - how to set the Differential & Range nuts to adjust the pressure control switch cut-in and cut-out pressures.

If the pressure switch contacts are burned possible causes include:

  1. Pump has been short cycling, burning and arcing the contacts
  2. Pump draws excessive current due to motor size or due to incipient motor failure.

    If this is the case replace the switch with a heavier duty one or fix failing motor or if necessary install a separate heavy duty pump control relay with a higher rating.

Burned pressure switch contacts can be replaced in many pressure control switches.

A replacement parts kit typically includes a new set of contacts and a new pressure sensing diaphragm actuator.

...

Pump Will Not Shut Off 

Well Pump Keeps Running, Pump Will Not Shut Off 

Check the steps in this table or go

to WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING - home - for details.

Common causes include:

  1. Water is running or at the building
  2. A water pipe or well piping is leaking
  3. The pump is damaged and cannot reach cut-off pressure
  4. The pressure control switch cut-off is set too high
  5. Water level in the well is too low and a tailpiece is recycling water through the pump system
  6. Pump has lost prime due to leak in well piping or a failed check valve or foot valve
  7. If you have been fooling with the pressure control switch settings they may be adjusted out of range.

Less common causes:

  1. Clogged pressure switch sensor port, not sensing increase in water pressure.
  2. Worn pump impeller
  3. Broken blade on pump impeller
  4. Debris clogging at pump inlet or impeller
  5. Debris clogging at pump outlet
  6. Partly-closed valve or clogged water filter at pump outlet
  7. Other worn pump internal parts
  8. Damaged pressure sensing diaphragm on the pressure control switch

Watch out: turn off the pump to avoid damage.

Watch out: a pump that does not turn off, it is actually delivering water, creates a dangerous over-pressure condition in the system. See more warnings just below.

...

Pump Keeps Cycling Off & On

Well Pump Turns On and Off too Often - water pump short cycling 

or

Pump turns on every time water is run

Check the steps in this table or go

to SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP - home - for details

Most common cause

  1. Water-logged pressure tank
  2. Improper air pre-charge in an internal-bladder type pressure tank (too little)
  3. Very rapid cycling can be due to a clogged water filter or any blockage at the outlet side of the pump.

Less common causes

  1. Under-sized pressure tank
  2. Pressure tank diaphragm damaged or stuck to self
  3. Leak in water supply piping (big leak)
  4. Debris-clogged pressure sensor port on the pressure switch or its mounting / sensor tubing

 

Watch out: a clogged sensor port or tubing at the pressure switch can delay the response of the switch to rising water system pressure and can cause the pump to run after it should have turned off.

A safety hazard.

Notes to the pump diagnostic tables just above and just below

  1. By "constant cycling" or "short cycling" pump on and off, we mean that the pump turns on - and then off - every few minutes or less.
    See

    SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP for diagnostic steps in finding and fixing the trouble
  2. By "intermittent cycling" we mean that the pump seems to run at odd times when you think no water is being run in the building it serves.
    See

    INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS for diagnostic procedures
  3. By pump running continuously - we mean that the pump simply never turns off.

    Watch out: in that case if no water is being delivered the pump may be damaged or ruined: turn it off right away and then diagnose and fix the trouble.
    See

    WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING for those diagnostic procedures

Pump Turns On for No Reason

Well Pump Runs Intermittently for No Apparent Reason - no water running

Check these causes or see

INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS for details

Most common cause:

  1. Slow water leak such as a running toile
  2. Leaky check valve or foot valve in the well piping system causing loss of prime in pump & well piping
  3. Debris-clogged pressure sensor port on the pressure switch or its mounting / sensor tubing can cause delayed sensing of a drop or rise in water pressure.

Watch out: a clogged sensor port or tubing at the pressure switch can delay the response of the switch to rising water system pressure and can cause the pump to run after it should have turned off.

The resulting high water pressure in the system risks leaks or even a dangerous burst pressure tank or piping - not just a leak but a source of injury.

This sporadic or unexplained "on-cycles" of a pump is a different problem from a well or system that sometimes simply runs out of water.

For that problem

see WATER PRESSURE INTERMITTENT LOSS

and see PLUMBING LEAK DETECTION METHODS

...

Pump Motor Chatters

Pump Runs, shuts off immediately after start then runs again: Pump Chatter

Most common cause:

  1. Pump capacity too high for water outlet
  2. Clogged water filter or closed or mostly-closed valve at pump outlet

May occur when a new pump is installed especially if it's a higher horsepower than its predecessor.

Install a water pressure surge protector at the pump outlet. Schneider / Square-D offer these parts in quantity (PN 1530S6G1) but buy just one from your plumbing supplier.

Notes: Some of the well pump troubleshooting suggestions in this list can be found at the Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual from the National Pump Co.

These diagnostic suggestions include, expand, and adapt information from : "Preventive Maintenance and Troubleshooting Guidelines for Class 9013F and 9013G Pressure Switches" (2007), Original source: Schneider Electric USA 8001 Knightdale Boulevard Knightdale, NC 27545 USA 1-888-SquareD (1-888-778-2733) www.us.SquareD.com

To select the proper Square-D pressure control switch see to the Schneider Electric catalog Commercial Pressure Switches Types F and G Class 9013
(9013CT9701), Industrial Pressure Switches (9012CT9701), or Nautilus™ Electronic Pressure Sensors, XMLE, XMLF, XMLG (9014CT0201).

National Pump Company, "Betta Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual", National Pump Company, LLC., 7706 North 71st Ave. Glendale, AZ 85303 Tel: (800) 966-5240, offices in the U.S. in Arizona, California, Florida, Georgia, Mississippi, Texas; Email: info@natlpump.com, retrieved 1 April 2015, original source: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com/pdf/betta_flo_iom_jet_pump.pdf

Tractor Supply Co., "CountryLine Cast Iron Jet Pumps Owners' Manual", Tractor Supply Co., 293 Wright Street, Delavan, WI 53115 Phone: 1-800-535-4950 Fax: 1-800-526-3757 Web Site: tractorsupply.com, retrieved 1 April 2015, original source: http://www.tractorsupply.com/ProdContentPDFs/1028145_Man1.pdf

...




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Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

On 2024-05-06 by John J.

I have replaced a nonfunctioning submerged well pump in a shallow well with a jet pump system. I purchased a 100ft roll of 1-1/4" black well pipe for the 35ft deep well. For the convenience and cost I chose to purchase reducers and use the 1-1/4"" pipe for the return line instead of buying a 100ft roll of 1-1/2" (minimum available length). It works but can take three or four minutes to build to the 50lb cutoff pressure. Did I make a mistake on the choice of well return pipe size?

On 2024-05-06 y InspectApedia Publisher

@John J.,

In my opinion, yes, it's a mistake though not a disaster. When a 2-line jet pump is installed the smaller line down to the well is sending water through the injector whose job is to use that venturi and jet to draw up a larger volume of water back from the well than the quantity that was sent down.

When the returning "suction" line is the same as the pressure (down) line you're limiting the ability of the system to send back a larger volume or flow rate of water. You may be able to live with this just fine but your pump is working harder and the gpm delivery rate from the well is being a bit limited.

On the other hand, your injector is probably down at around 32 or 33 ft. So the total lift height is not too great - less work for the pump.

On the third hand, we don't know what pump brand and model you bought so we can't check its instructions.

Using a Flotex 2-line jet pump (convertible from 1-line) as an example - found at FLOTEC FP4200-FP4300 CONVERTIBLE DEEP WELL JET PUMP MANUAL [PDF] (2005)

You'll see that the manufacturer suggests a 1" drive line and a 1 1/4" suction line. That may not seem like a big difference, but it's significant.

As one of my best teachers ever, at IBM SRI, told us, when you don't have a number, make one up. Start with 1. 1 is a good number.

So using simple example - we can compare water flow rates through two different pipe diameters.

1" pipe, at an average pressure range of 20-100PSI and a simple application with just about 12 feet per second flow velocity you might see 37 - 1400 gph - note that's gallons per HOUR not per minute.

Now if we move up to a 1 1/4" ID pipe, with the other parameters the same as above, you might see 62 - 3750 gph.

So a 25% increase in pipe internal diameter - for our example case (which is arm-waving, it's not going to be an exact match for your set-up) roughly doubles the water flow rate or capacity.

IMO that's remarkable, and perhaps some of our fluid or plumbing engineer readers will comment on this point.


inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Flotec-FP4200-Pump-Manual.pdf

at WATER PUMP MANUALS

has installation instructions for some example jet pumps.

Flo-Tec 2 Line Jet Installation


Watch out: I hasten to add, that having installed, fixed, and inspected a lot of well pump systems since the 1970s (now retired) I've too often seen that the owner or installer put down a more-powerful water pump hoping to get more water from the well only to discover that the well's flow rate was so weak that the new pump simply ran the well dry.

If we combine a questionable flow rate well with a pump protection device (there are several types) to keep us from burning up the pump by running it dry, for those low-flow well cases, the bottom line is that the pipe diameter didn't matter, and the pump capacity in gph didn't matter either, because ultimately it was the well's flow-rate that determined how much or how fast the pump system could deliver water from well to building.

When your well is only 35 ft deep, unless it has a fabulous flow rate, a more-powerful pump is simply going to pump out the well's static head (the volume of water in the well between tailpiece bottom inlet and water top) in a jiffy and then you'll be limited to the well's flow rate.

SO bottom line, don't rush out to dig up and put on a larger suction pipe. But do get your well's flow rate and consider that in the water delivery system design.

Continuing...

To understand the volume of water in gallons in the static head of your 35 ft deep well please

see WELL DYNAMIC HEAD & STATIC HEAD DEFINITION

Also see WELL WATER VOLUME CALCULATION

On 2022-12-16 by Dave k

I've been dealing with this issue for 3 years I'm on a community well I have 60 lb of pressure at the farthest point from the inlet of the house the water pressure reads like I said 60 pounds when I turn on the washer it goes to 50 when I turn on the sink with the clothes washer it drops to 20 can't even run two sprinklers any answers would be greatly appreciated

On 2022-12-20 by InspectApedia (mod)

@Dave k,

I understand. Recapping:

I said earlier that small diameter water pipes reduce the flow rate through any water system. Increasing water piping diameter in even part of the system improves water flow anywhere downstream from that point.

Water "pressure" is NOT the same thing as "water flow rate" though people do, I acknowledge, use the words "water pressure" to describe how much or how fast water appears to come out of a tap when it's opened.

If no water is running in a building, water pressure will. measure exactly the same everywhere in the system unless you take a measurement on the downstream (outlet) side of a water pressure regulator or pressure reducing valve. In that case water pressure would indeed be lower on the outlet side of the pressure regulator than on the inlet side.

It is perfectly normal for measured "pressure" in a water piping system to fall immediately once a valve is opened anywhere in the system, and 50 is still pretty good.

Just how far the water pressure falls in the system depends on how fast water is flowing out into open air at, for example, a sink, or clothes washer, or sprinkler system.

The greater the quantity of water flowing out of the piping system the lower will be the (now dynamic) water pressure measured somewhere on the water piping system.

How you can increase the water flow rate in your home:

For a water supply system coming from a well, see

WELL WATER PRESSURE IMPROVEMENT

For community water system from a common source feeding multiple buildings or occupancies, or for municipal (city) water pressure, see

MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE IMPROVEMENTS

You’ll find additional, more-detailed articles at the end of each of those pages, such as using a water pressure booster pump or adjusting a water pressure regulator.

Take a look and let me know what questions you have after that.

On 2022-12-06 by Rachel - lost contact part needs repair or replacement

Hi. My pump will not come on when I pull the metal lever up as it normally does. It has been cycling over and over again and then shutting off by itself every few days. I've taken the box cover off and can see a spring and small piece of metal has broken off. I'm not sure how to fix it myself or who to call for help. Can you help me? Thank you.

missing contact from pump control switch (C) InspectApedia.com ... missing contact from pump control switch (C) InspectApedia.com

On 2022-12-06 by InspectApedia (Editor)

@Rachel,

It sounds as if a contact relay tip has broken off - the switch then can't turn on the pump. You will need help from an electrician or experienced plumber who can replace the pump pressure control switch.

Looks like a contact part has been lost from the upper contact in your photo

missing contact from pump control switch (C) InspectApedia.com

I would not try to repair this switch, though there are re-build kits for water pump pressure controls. It's simpler and similar in cost to replace the switch.

See

WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH INSTALL / REPLACE

On 2021-09-12 by joe

I replaced the pressure switch, and the pressure tank, but my well is still not kicking on. Is there something else that I can try before I have to pull the pump? 

On 2021-09-13 by inspectapedia.com.moderator

@joe,

An experienced well pump installer and some electricians as well know some electrical tests that can be made of your well pump before actually pulling the pump.

For example measuring the current draw can sometimes indicate that a motor or impeller has seized.

On 2022-07-11 by Timothy Davey

Why my pump will mot shut off we have a whole new pump and pressure switch. Primded it and it still won't shut off

Contact me buy email if you could help I can't get any one to look at it.

On 2022-07-11 by InspectApedia (mod)

@Timothy Davey,

Take a look at the diagnostic steps we have at

WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING

If that still leaves you with questions, please let us know.

Or

WATER PRESSURE TABLE 1: PUMP WON'T RUN, WON'T STOP, or CYCLES

Could point you to a series of diagnostic steps that you can try yourself. That's a good place to start.

On 2022-04-17 by Frikkie

It sounds if the motor is single phasing. Could the impeller be stuck inside? I turned the motor fan with a screw driver, it turns very difficult, then I started it again, primed it again and the motor still sounds if it is single phasing.

On 2022-04-18 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - motor difficult to turn may indicate failed bearing

@Frikkie,

If the motor is difficult to turn that sounds like a failed bearing.

For other readers,

"Single phasing simply means that one of the line connections of a motor is not connected, resulting in the motor running on a single phase. A single-phase condition subjects the motor to an excessive voltage imbalance, often meaning high currents and motor heating.

Induction motors designed to run from a single phase use a start or run capacitor to assure that the motor starts and runs in the correct direction. 3-phase motors rely on the phase sequence of the power supply to assure they start and determine their rotation, so with only two lines connected, it is uncertain if a motor will start and what direction it will rotate if it does." - thanks to HEVVY'S BLOG at Hevvy Pumps https://hevvypumps.com/ 2022-04-18

Single phasing can also be caused by a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker on one of the pump's phase wires.

But when the motor is difficult to turn, I'm back to suspecting a bad bearing OR, as you suspect, a jammed impeller. That can happen if an impeller blade or part breaks off or if there is a very high mineral content in the water that might cause a chunk of solidified mineral deposit to cause an impeller jam.

On 2022-01-21 by No Water TP

I have been reading the information that you post on your website.

So we replaced our well pump last December because we had no water and that was what we were told was the problem.

It was good for about 9 months and now have lost water a few times again.

We have great water pressure throughout the house and than all of a sudden out of no where we have no water at all.

My husband shuts of the well pump and waits while and than the water fills back up in the well. He turns the pump back on and the water is ok again.

We have had professionals come in and they say we may need a new well or they suggested putting a water holding tank in our basement.

To me it does not seem possible for our well to be dry.

We do have a water softener system with reverse osmosis because we have hard water.

Any advice would be appreciate. We are still waiting to hear back from a well compliant that my husband called. But in the meantime I am trying is figure out what is going on?

On 2022-01-21 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - possible signs that well is running out of water

@No Water TP,

The diagnostic steps in the table at WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE - above on this page for NO WATER PRESSURE - are much more complete and thorough than I can write here making up that advice again off-the-cuff.

But it sure sounds as if you well is running out of water.

On 2021-09-11 by Matin

I hv a pressure pump. The motor doesnt turn. Bit if I open it, Plug it and turn The Small Wheel made of Brazelle inside with my hand The motor starts to turn for few seconds and it stop again. Wht cn it be The problem

On 2021-09-11 by inspectapedia.com.moderator

@Matin,

If the impeller itself isn't binding it's probably the motor

see

ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Electric_Motor_Diagnosis.php

On 2021-08-25 by Rick - pump stops working, starts to hum, throws a breaker

I have a cabin that has a 2000 gallon water tank with minimal gravity flow.to the house. My 4-year-old 1/2 hp pump stopped working hums and then throws a breaker. So after reading your troubleshooting I replaced the breaker, then replaced the switch. Then out of frustration replaced the motor with another manufacture of the same size 1/2 hp.

Still, the same problem hums and then switches off. I even tried bypassing that circuit and ran to a different one and the same problem. I checked the air pressure in the bladder and it's perfect at 27lbs. Water does trickle out of the kitchen faucet as it normally does with water shut off and of course, I primed it.

I am at a loss of what else it could be any help would be appreciated ...... thank you

On 2021-08-25 by inspectapedia.com.moderator

@Rick,

A humming water pump that blows a breaker suggests that the pump motor is drawing high current - which happens when a motor is seized.

On occasion we can get a motor going by replacing a the motor start/run capacitor.

details are at

ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE

and at

CAPACITORS for HARD STARTING MOTORS

On 2021-08-25 by Rick

@inspectapedia.com.moderator,
Yes, I thought it may be the motor so I replaced it with a new one from a different manufacturer and it's making the same humming noise . Then I bypassed the original line and hooked up a temporary line from a different circuit and still just humming?

On 2021-08-25 by inspectapedia.com.moderator

@Rick,

New pump motor, still the pump hums?

hmmm thinking ... is it possible that the impeller is jammed?

On 2021-08-27 by Rick

@inspectapedia.com.moderator, I took the cover off and turned it by hand but still didn't start .

On 2021-08-27 by inspectapedia.com.moderator - test motor apart form all pump connections and controls

@Rick,

A good test would be to see if the motor runs when it is on a test bench - completely apart from the water pump connection, controls, etc.

if the motor works on the bench but not on the pump then we figure a bad impeller bearing or improper wiring or installation at the pump; an electrician would check voltage delivered at the pump and would check current draw.

More detailed suggestions are at ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE I mentioned earlier.

Do take care; if you are not familiar with proper, safe electrical wiring, you could be shocked or killed.

On 2021-07-20 by Trevor

Why is my 10 bar pump pushing only 2 bar

On 2021-07-21 by inspectapedia.com.moderator

@Trevor,

take a look at the diagnostic steps and repairs at

WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING

On 2020-11-28 by Neal Rosenberg

Pressure system for small ranch does not start pump. The motor hums like when it starts the pump. If it hums too long it will blow the fuse to the pressure switch. 15 amp delay fuse. The axle between the motor and the pump turns easily.

The switch is clean and was replaced last year. The switch was rated for 40 to 60 lbs, I raised it when I installed it to 50 to 70 to make the system effective on our lawns. Water from the neighborhood system is awailable at 30 lbs to my pressure pump. So, what part is failing.

On 2020-11-28 - by (mod) -

You might see if there is a start capacitor that can be replaced

On 2020-10-01 by David Daski

The former pump and its now replacement both often cycle but don't build up pressure. I suspect a leak in the piping from the well. What I don't understand is that this is happening even though the well is artesian with a definite positive pressure. Should this not be forcing the air out of the system? Also, could I fix the issue by installing a submersible pump?

On 2020-10-02 - by (mod) - even artesian well needs proper pump priming

David

If a new water pump runs but doesn't deliver pressure, provided we didn't run it dry at time of installation (this can destroy some impeller assemblies), then the problem is probably elsewhere, such as low water in the well or air leaks in the piping or simply failure to properly prime the pump.

In an artesian well installation, you might still need to open appropriate bleeder fittings at and ahead of the pump to remove air from the system before running the pump. Else if you let the pump run too long - minutes or longer - while "dry" you can so damage the impeller that later even when the pump is primed with water it can't develop pressure.

On 2020-09-22 by Angel

Water pump works after filling the tank the cage drops to zero and does not want to pump more water

On 2020-09-22 - by (mod) - check for debris or low water supply from well

I suspect either the pressure control switch is debris clogged and doesn't respond to the pressure drop OR the well flow rate has fallen so much that you have to wait for the well to recover. If the pump runs but no water is delivered the well may be out.

On 2020-05-13 by Roy mattox

Lost water pressure

On 2020-05-13 - by (mod) - lost water pressure solutions

Roy

Thanks for asking,

I have divided pump and water pressure problems in to categories to try to help you and other readers home in on the most likely causes of trouble.

If you have no water pressure and

Table 1: Pump Won't Start, Wont' Stop Running, or Cycles Rapidly
describes what's happening, see Table 1 on this page.

If you have no water pressure and the pump is running continuously,

See "Pump Will Not Shut Off " table headed in green on this page.

If your pump runs and you have very weak water pressure that then falls off or maybe even stops,

see WATER PRESSURE TABLE 2: PUMP RUNS, WEAK or NO WATER PRESSURE

If you have no water pressure and the pump runs but no water is being delivered, see the diagnostics at

WATER PRESSURE TABLE 3: PUMP RUNS, NO WATER or INSUFFICIENT WATER

On 2020-01-27 by Cor

my booster water pump suddenly can not get the pressure used to stop at 4 bar .the motor keeps on running but the pressure do not go higher than 2 bar

On 2020-01-27 - by (mod) - continuously running water pump diagnostics

Cor,

When a water pump runs continuously we have diagnostics at

WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING


And at

WATER PRESSURE TABLE 3: PUMP RUNS, NO WATER or INSUFFICIENT WATER

Please take a look at the diagnostic and repair suggestions there and don't hesitate to ask follow-up questions work to report back what you found.

On 2019-11-30 by Anonymous

Changed out my pressure switch and tank it’s not building up pressure

On 2019-11-30 - by (mod) -

Anon

Let's start with a diagnostics at

WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING

When you've been through those easy checks, we'll have a better idea of what's going on with your pump and well. Let me know what you find and will continue from there.

On 2019-07-11 by Marty

I replaced switch for well and well pump pumps up to spiket at casing but nothing to house

On 2019-07-15 - by (mod) -

Marty I don't quite understand the situation; but if the pump runs and no water is delivered, usually that means that either the pump impeller is damaged or there's no water in the well (or a big leak in well piping)

On 2019-06-21 by Randy

My pressure tank usually stops at 40psi but after draining it will reach only 27psi and the pump won't stop until it will become hot. Water is not a problem. The connections are good. What seems to be the problem?

On 2019-06-21 - by (mod) -

The diagnostics for the case you describe, Randy, are at WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING

Let's start there - post an update on what you find.

On 2019-01-23 by Anji Gardner

Pressure gauge will only pump up to 40 then you can hear gurgling . I have replaced new pump, gauge , and points switch and it still doesn’t work.?

On 2019-01-24 - by (mod) - gurgling may be from a number of things

My guess is that if you're hearing a gurgling sound near the end of the pump cycle and before you reach the cut-off pressure your water supply in the well is low or you have a poor well flow rate.

There could also be a leak in well piping below the water level that gets exposed as the water level in the well bore gets bumped down. That could be putting air into your system.



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