These FAQs help diagnose & fix intermittent or periodic or intermittent loss of water pressure.
Sudden but temporary drops in water pressure or intermittent but complete loss of water pressure.
This article series explains how to diagnose periodic or intermittent loss of water pressure either from municipal water supply piping or periodic or intermittent loss of water pressure from a private well. The process of diagnosis and the procedure for repair are explained.
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These questions and answers about why water pressure (water flow rate) seems to come and go in a building or in parts of a building were posted originally at WATER PRESSURE INTERMITTENT LOSS - home - be sure to see the diagnosis and repair advice in that article.
Start by checking with your municipal water supplier to ask if the pressure changes are due to work on their end.
If not you may need to look at your pressure regulator.
See MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS
On 2014-03-27 by Anonymous
I'm on city water and the pressure coming to the house is good and consistent . In the past week we have experienced a loss of pressure through out the house about 6 times.
The pressure has always returned on its own shortly thereafter. Tonight when the pressure went down I scurried to the water softener and turned the by pass valve to by pass the softener and the water pressure in the house returned to normal instantly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
On 2014-03-11 by (mod) - My water pressure varies
Tony,
WATER TANK BLADDER PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
is a good place to start- check that the tank starting pressure is correct.
Then check WATER TANK AIR LOSS SIGNS
keep me posted
On 2014-03-11 by Tony M
My water pressure varies. For example, turn the water on to take a shower and we have low water pressure. After being in the shower for several minutes the water pressure returns.
After a significant period of time the water pressure will drop again. It appears that when the pump is running the pressure is fine, otherwise the pressure is low. The same type of cycle occurs when using the garden hose. Any suggestions?
On 2014-02-24 by (mod) - empty water tank?
Geoff: "Empty ... no water sloshing" doesn't sound quite right; usually there is some water in the tank at the cut-in pressure. I'd start with the test I suggested, along with a look at your water filter if you have one, to see if there's a clue about the debris level in the water. YOu could try replacing the switch but it'd be good to do some diagnostics rather than shotgunning.
On 2014-02-24 by geoff
as I said I checked the pressure in the tank and replaced the pressure switch. tank has 33 psi and when empty no water sloshing in tank. does not appear to have any debris in pressure switch line.
On 2014-02-23 21:54:48.184190 by (mod) -
Anon,
next time you see water just stop, try tapping on the pressure control switch; if it starts and starts the pump then the switch is defective or it or its sensor may have become debris clogged.
On 2014-02-23 14:02:37.908130 by Anonymous
air pressure in tank 33 psi. replaced high low switch all faucets work fine. water runs for awhile then just stops and after 20-30 seconds comes back on. well is only 7 years old and 200 ft deep
On 2014-02-22 15:02:38.485340 by geoff
air pressure in tank @33psi, replaced high low switch. all faucets in house work fine. water runs for quite a while and then just stops. seems like no pressure and then comes back on. water stops for about 20 seconds but getting worse.
On 2014-02-12 22:43:53.615400 by (mod) -
Sue this is indeed a confusing-sounding problem; Low pressure on both hot and cold tells us it's not a hot water system problem, that the problem is occurring before the water heater; If you are on well water I'd suspect a well or pump or water tank problem; if you're on municipal I'd be sure your local pressure regulator is working and properly adjusted; I hope you'll also take a look at our list of diagnostics in the article above; perhaps those will suggest another step you've not tried. Keep us posted.
On 2014-02-12 22:15:03.520060 by (mod) -
Sue when a water pressure is just at one fixture we start by looking for a local clog. Have you tried unscrewing the sink faucet strainer?
On 2014-02-12 22:14:12.250570 by (mod) -
Dan, loss of prime can show up as "intermittent" in a well with a failing foot valve or check valve; in that case if water is run frequently the prime is maintained (as the foot valve leak may be slow to drain back the prime water into the well) but when water is off for a time the prime may be lost; or a check valve may stick open intermittently; or of course the problem may be elsewhere.
On 2014-02-11 19:02:55.272920 by Sue
I have a problem with pressure in my kitchen sink. If I run either tap I get very little pressure, I have to run the cold tap for a few mins. then turn the tap on and off slowly and I then will get the normal pressure back. I thought it must be a faulty faucet so I installed a brand new faucet and now I only get a slow stream of water coming out no matter which hot or cold tap is open. All the other faucets in my home have normal water pressure. ?? Help!!
On 2014-02-11 03:57:56.515460 by dan
There is water in the well as I have checked when this has happened. Has a new pressure switch and put a gauge in the tank because there wasn't one. Is it possible that the foot valve is bad I have a check valae at the pump but I don't know if there is a foot valve in the. Well. This problem is intermittent hasn't done it for a day but did it tonight. The pump has run about 8 to 10 times since then with no problem. If it is a pump problem would it so intermittent. Also if the recovery rate of the well would it be more to happen at night for this has also happened in the morning when there was no water usage all night
On 2014-02-08 13:30:49.057490 by (mod) -
Dan, It sounds as if the well flow rate has deteriorated; but there could be other problems such as a leak in the well piping or a bad pump impeller; when a pump runs continuously AND when we see that the pressure in the tank remains low, that suggests that the pump is unable to deliver water or water sufficient pressure to reach the cut-off level.
If waiting a time and then switching a pump back on allows the pump to reach cutoff pressure that suggests a poor well recovery rate. But 10 seconds is not long enough for a well to recover that much.
So thinking while typing, you'd also want to check that the pressure switch itself is not bad. For example debris clogging the pressure switch sensor port (that could have happened when the pump ran along time previously, exhausting the well) then it may have trouble sensing pressure.
Try tapping on the switch and seeing if that changes its behavior, and watch the pressure gauge. If you suspect the switch, that's not a costly part to replace.
On 2014-02-08 03:34:37.370850 by dan
My pressure drops to 20 psi and the pump runs continuously until I shut it off let it sit for approx 10 sec. Then turn pump on it now builds pressure and shuts off. It is a intermittent problem maybe 3 to 4 times a week. I am on a drilled well with a jetpump in the house approx 30 feet from well this started after a toilet was left running and I think drained the well. When this does act up have checked well and have lots of water approx. A foot above where the pipe comes into the well also have flushed out the pump and made sure the tank is not waterlogged. Any ideas or suggestion
On 2012-12-07 21:03:50.324607 by Greg
I have problems.. Our private well is pretty old and probably shallow... Here is my problem- We turn on water and the pressure is low, but when the submersible pump kicks in the pressure increases to almost normal pressure. Once the pump goes off the pressure goes with it.
Really would like a good lead- should I replace the water tank (maybe it has sand build up) or is there a pressure switch that should kick the pump on sooner... Thanks
On 2012-11-28 12:30:09.743291 by (mod) -
Low pressure
See our article links at page top on
Water pipe clog diagnosis
And
Water pipe clog repair
On 2012-11-28 12:27:13.656491 by (mod) -
Cheryl,
It sounds as if your well is inadequate.
On 2012-11-27 14:58:05.025490 by Cheryl
I have a Shallow well, I will do load of laundry than no water, than about a hour later water will come back. I have put on new pressure switch, refilled pressure tank, but I do not have water in pressure tank. Not sure what could be the problem, getting very frustrated. Please help. Thanks
On 2012-10-17 11:23:19.281389 by Low pressure
Thank you Dan. That's the thing....our home softening system is by-passed as well as the other neighbor who is experiencing problems (we both used the same systems) however the third home that has no problems has never used a water softener. When I turned the faucet on last night there seemed to be air in the line and then a bunch of red junk spit out. Does this correspond with your theory on mineral build up in the lines? We have cleaned the screens on all the faucets, shower, etc. Is there any way to clean the actual lines?
Any help is appreciated
On 2012-10-17 00:27:57.347421 by (mod) -
Low pressure
Since you have bypassed the water softener, taking it out of service, I suspect that now hard water minerals have clogged fixture strainers, shower heads, and possibly piping. Perhaps the home with no problems kept their water softener in operation.
On 2012-10-16 12:12:28.032563 by Low pressure
Pressure in the well pump is good, we by-passed our water softening system located in the well house several years ago but still replace the filter that we cannot bypass regularly. Everything in well house is working ok. There do not seem to be any leaks in the lines. The spicket outside has not lost pressure. All faucets, shower heads, washer, are low and seems to affect cold and hot the same. We have three houses running on the well and two of us are experiencing problems but the third (and the one farthest away from the well) has no problems. Any ideas?
On 2012-10-08 21:36:39.353423 by Shower stops
Shower intermittently stops, then won't work. Problem getting worse. Bristan shower only put in less than 2 years ago, problems after 6 months. New shower put in as old shower wouldn't turn off. Plumber worked on inlet pipes and install a new shower. Original plumber not interested, other plumbers no idea of what problem could be and Bristan not interested. Any suggestions of what the problem is and possible solutions please.
On 2012-09-27 03:12:41.937650 by Kevin
I have no background or training but attempted to install a 3/4 hp 10 gal 4" submersible pump into a new 6" well drilled to 107 feet. The pump has never been able to maintain pressure ~20 psi when I open the drain valve on the T (I installed a short piece of pex with a plug on the outlet of the T) and the pressure rapidily drops to zero as the pump safety cuts in at 10psi.
I have to either flip the start switch or wait a short period to get the pump to work and the cycle repeats. I have not got more than 5 gal, usually less before it shuts down. I have a 19 gal pressure tank and pressure switch factory set at 20/40 and have "played with many different pressures for the tank/switch with no success. I even REPLACED the submersible pump on warranty with the same result.
The breaker has NEVER tripped so the problem does not appear to be electrical. I am out of ideas as to what is causing the pump to shut down. Any suggestions other than hiring a professional, lol ?
On 2012-09-27 03:08:35.784386 by Kevin
I have no background or training but attempted to install a 3/4 hp 10 gal 4" submersible pump into a new 6" well drilled to 107 feet. The pump has never been able to maintain pressure ~20 psi when I open the drain valve on the T (I installed a short piece of pex with a plug on the outlet of the T) and the pressure rapidily drops to zero as the pump safety cuts in at 10psi.
I have to either flip the start switch or wait a short period to get the pump to work and the cycle repeats. I have not got more than 5 gal, usually less before it shuts down. I have a 19 gal pressure tank and pressure switch factory set at 20/40 and have "played with many different pressures for the tank/switch with no success. I even REPLACED the submersible pump on warranty with the same result.
The breaker has NEVER tripped so the problem does not appear to be electrical. I am out of ideas as to what is causing the pump to shut down. Any suggestions ?
On 2012-09-27 03:01:40.391152 by Kevin C 12/09/26
I installed a 3/4 hp 10 gal 4" submersible pump into a new 6" well drilled to 107 feet. When the pump is engaged the system will pressurize to ~20 psi (I have installed a short piece of pex plugged at the outlet of the T. However, when I open the drain valve on the T the pressure steadily drops to zero and the pump cuts out (built in safety below 10psi). I have to either flip the start switch or wait a short period until the cycle repeats.
I have a 19 gal pressure tank and pressure switch factory set at 20/40 and have "played with many different pressures for the tank/switch with no success. I even REPLACED the submersible pump on warranty with the same result. The breaker has NEVER tripped so the problem does not appear to be electrical. I am out of ideas as to what is causing the pump to shut down. Any suggestions ?
On 2012-08-15 04:15:24.643860 by Chris
I appreciate your help... I have a 4 year old system that just started randomly dropping pressure to 0 for less than a second and then immediately recovering to full pressure just as it was before.
To say it differently, I have full pressure out of the fixture (and I have seen this in 3 fixtures) then for about 1/2 a second no water at all and then immediately again full pressure.
I have a check valve just before the pressure tank. There is a slow leak (ie. 1-2 ounces a day) on the house side of the check valve but not nearly enough to account for a random blast elsewhere in the system. This has been happening 2-3 times a day for the last week. I appreciate your help!
On 2012-08-13 21:07:00.086475 by (mod) -
Bertha,
I have to say first and for the record that while we post answers and write detailed "how to" articles in an effort to be helpful, it is always an iffy proposition to pretend to diagnose someone's house or mechanical system remotely by just text in messages.
In 100% of the cases in which I have visited a site in response to a problem call I have found information that was significant and that no one had previously seen or thought to mention.
With that generic apologia, and for the case you described below,
a pump that runs for 13 minutes after just a small volume of water has been used suggests a problem that could lie in any of several areas
- the well itself may have a very poor recovery rate - the pump can't send water up to the house if there isn't any or if it flows into the well very slowly
- a leak in the well piping system means that the pump runs but some part of water never reaches the house - usually we can see this by noting that pressure falls when no water is being run in the building (a bad check valve can do the same)
- a worn or damaged pump impeller, motor, or clogged pump strainre
The fact that the pressure tank is not leaky and is sometimes empty (has an air charge) and sometimes heavy (full), says the problem is not likely to be at the tank itself.
I think it's time to call a well driller or a plumber who is experienced with well, pump, and tank installation.
Keep us posted.
On 2012-08-13 21:02:00.630131 by (mod) -
Pete, It sounds to me as if the pump motor may be having trouble starting - suggesting a damaged pump or pump motor, but it's worth seeing if the pump uses a start/run capacitor that could be swapped out first as a test.
The fact that you went to a higher cutoff pressure (from 50 to 60 psi) may have been a stretch for an old well pump, hastenint its demise.
I don't think it's a switch compatability issue.
On 2012-08-13 16:54:37.859579 by bertha
We have a shallow well maybe 25 ft for our cabin. A set up pump in the crawl space. The pump draws water to the house. When we flush the toliet and wash hands it then turns on and runs for 13 mins recovery. Then sometimes it runs and no water. Then we have to prime it again to get water. We have replaced the check valve.
That didnt work. Do you think it could be the tank? I think it is 18 yrs old. There no signs of leaks. But i did notice that the tank was empty one time and then when i checked it there felt like there was water in it, but you could still move the tank a little. Do you have any suggestions? So Confusing.
On 2012-08-08 18:17:26.649304 by Pete
I had my water tank replaced in march 2012 (welxtrol wx203)along with pressure switch, backflow valve, etc. The old tank, large 20yrs old, sprang a leak.
Before this we never had a problem with our well pump. Soon after about once a week the pressure switch would click on but pressure would drop to zero. wait a minute or so then you could hear the slight hum of the pump go on & the usual slight flicker of lights that indicates that it switched on. it would run fine for another week and then again...no rhyme or reason.
Plumber replaced everything he put in, no change. then he came back just to check electrical connection to switch. that seemed to work until about a month ago.
The switch on the old tank was at 30/50 this new tank setup is 40/60. We don't have a pump relay switch could the new switch be incompatible with old pump? I have no idea what kind of well pump I have.
Any ideas? Thanks for your time,
Pete
On 2012-08-06 00:15:36.012936 by (mod) -
Roger,
I'm not sure I have a clear idea of what's going on, but if you are saying that your well pump system seems to run OK until you connect up a hose to an outdoor hose faucet or spigot and then water stops, and if water is coming out of the hose, then it sounds as if your well pump can't keep up with the demand.
Could be a worn or damaged pump, low water in the well, a leak in well piping.
In the article links found at the end of this article, click on
WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE
for some diagnostic help.
On 2012-08-05 17:28:51.592362 by roger
i got problem have well i can turn on the hydrate i will have then if i put on a hose the water stops. can you help me out
On 2012-04-20 05:40:40.113131 by (mod) -
Mike,
there could be several causes of the symptoms you describe, such as a water logged pressure tank (so you get a very short draw-down cycle), or a more troublesome problem like a well that has lost its recovery rate. I'd start by checking the air charge in the tank.
Some procedures are at WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING (links in the ARTICLE INDEX at the end of this page)
Anonymous: that's an annoying water problem to have while in the shower. I've seen problems like this when there is a clog in the supply system, or a waterlogged pressure tank.
Have someone else turn the water on and off while you watch the pump or pump controls to see what the well pump is doing. Let me know what you find and we can speculate further.
On 2012-04-17 14:59:59.181384 by Mike
I have great water pressure for about 2 minutes then slowly trickles down to nothing. If I wait about 10 minutes, the pressure comes back for 2 minutes and then slows to a trickle again. I never have more than 2 minutes of good water pressure.
On 2012-04-02 15:55:17.385580 by Anonymous
I have a 14 year old system. Submersible pump, on @ 30 off @ 50.
Pressurized tank. Water flow occasionally slows to a trickle, or even stops completely. Usually when I'm soaped up in the shower. If I turn off the spigot and turn it back on almost immediately, I have great flow. I have also seen this problem at an outside spigot so I don't think that it is isolated to just the one shower.
Even if I don't lose water entirely, pressure changes in the shower are very noticeable.
I don't know anything about short cycling, what it is or how to tell if my pump is doing that.
On 2011-12-13 03:42:56.861035 by Farron
My house was built in 2 stages. So there is old plumbing and older plumbing. In some parts of the house there is good cold water pressure and almost no pressure in other parts. There is very low hot water pressure in all parts of the house. What's going on? =(
On 2011-12-11 22:43:18.727040 by Steve
I am on a well with a submersible pump. We recently started having intermittant water problems. I have replaced the pressure switch thinking that may it but it wasn't. Anytime we turn the water off for even a minute or so, the pressure seems fine. With the new pressure switch in place I watched the gauge as my wife was controlling the water above. The pump ran, but only to about 45 psi (of the 50 needed), then the pump stopped. It would start back after some time, but the time was variable. It seems like one description I found regarding the pump having an internal cut-off then starting back once it has 'cooled', but it's doesn't say where to go from there.
I pulled off the well cap and starting pulling up the pump to make sure the pump wasn't pumping dry, but there was plenty of water.
Does replacing the pump seem like the next step? If not, any other suggestions to what the problem may be? Thank you so much for any help.
On 2011-10-07 21:03:02.348927 by (mod) -
Donna:
If you continue to have water pressure and flow indoors at other fixtures but the outdoor spigot stops running, the problem is a clog in the piping system - that's assuming all of the water piping is in common. See if you can follow the piping routing from the water pressure tank to the outside spigot so that you can confirm it's all part of the house plumbing system.
On 2011-10-07 20:27:47.351286 by Donna
We have well water. We have fixed the burnt out lead that originally caused the problem. aNow we have another problem: We have and retain water pressure to our house, yet the water spigot for the outside water will run water for aprox 5-6 minutes then lose pressure altogether. What could be causing this problem?
...
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