FAQs that help diagnose & fix intermittent or periodic loss of water pressure:

Frequently-asked questions & answers about finding & fixing the cause of unexplained, oftren sudden but temporary drops in water pressure or intermittent but complete loss of water pressure.

This article series explains how to diagnose periodic or intermittent loss of water pressure either from municipal water supply piping or periodic or intermittent loss of water pressure from a private well. The process of diagnosis and the procedure for repair are explained.

Intermittent Bad Water Pressure Diagnostic FAQs

These questions and answers about why water pressure (water flow rate) seems to come and go in a building or in parts of a building were posted originally

at WATER PRESSURE INTERMITTENT LOSS - home - be sure to see the diagnosis and repair advice in that article.

On 2021-03-30 by (mod) - why do I run out of water when I run the tub?

@Ashley,

Flying a bit blind, but a plausible guess is that your well water's own flow rate - the rate at which water flows INTO your well - has deteriorated so you are in effect running out of water.

By measurement I've seen that a bat tub spout runs water at a faster flow rate (sometimes around 5 gpm) than you encounter at a sink or washing machine.

Also at the sink or washing machine you're usually drawing a much smaller total volume of water.

WELL YIELD IMPROVEMENT https://inspectapedia.com/water/Well_Yield_Improvement.php offers some suggestions.

Keep me posted.

On 2021-03-30 by Ashley

Had a new pump and pressure tank installed last spring. Any idea why I run out of water when I run the tub? I can run water at the sink and do laundry with no issues. If I have a shower or bath water runs out completely

On 2021-03-18 - by (mod) -

@Heryberto, I think that unless your water tank actually was leaking it would not be a cause of loss of water pressure or quantity. If by losing water pressure you mean that the flow is weak that means probably there's a problem with the pump or with clogged piping. Look in the article index for water pressure loss.

On 2021-03-17 by Heryberto

We replace the pressure tank and still loosing water presure

On 2020-11-22 - by (mod) -

Russell

A more-useful answer might be possible if we knew how your hot water is being produced.

But from just what you've written, it sounds as if there is a blockage in the hot water system such as might occur at a defective anti-scald valve.

On 2020-11-20 by russell

when i run the tube or dishwasher and then jump in the shower or turn on another faucet in the house the hot water runs for about 5 seconds then the hot water stops flowing, nothing.. but the cold works just fine... i have to wait about 10 to 15 min to have any hot water if i do it too soon it will run for 5 to 10 seconds then nothing comes out, but then again the cold works fine. is it the hot water heater?

On 2020-10-19 - by (mod) -

Anon

My most complete list of probable causes for intermittent loss of water pressure are at WATER PRESSURE INTERMITTENT LOSS https://inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pressure_Comes_Goes.php

for which the page you're on is collection of Q&A's originally posted in that article.

Please take a look there and let me know what you find.

On 2020-10-19 by Anonymous

Our well water has been going off and on intermittently. What could be the cause? Our well company checked it out 2 days ago and said it was working but the but the problem persisted a day later???

On 2020-06-17 - by (mod) -

Shirley

Most-likely you're exhausting the water available in your well, and when you leave the pump off for a time the well recovers.

Well flow rates - the rate at which water flows into the well - determine the rate at which you can draw water out of the well once you've drawn down the static head (the volume that's in the well when it's at rest and fully recovered).

The flow rate is more complex than one might think. Actually in a typical drilled well water may enter the well bore at multiple points, at various depths, at various rates, and endure for various lengths of time before becoming temporarily exhausted.

For details see

WELL FLOW RATE https://inspectapedia.com/water/Well_Flow_Rate.php

Some well pumps include either a tailpiece in the well or an electrical control (pump protection switch) that will limit the pump's output (or stop it entirely) when the water level in the well drops so low that the pump is in danger of being run dry - as doing that is a quick way to destroy the pump.

On 2020-06-17 by shirley

I have an outside well that I use for watering plants. Lately, it works fine, good pressure for about 30 minutes, then the water pressure goes to about half as it was the first 30 minutes. If I shut the electricity off to the well for an hour or so, the pressure is good for another 30 minutes. Got any ideas on whats happening?

On 2020-06-16 - by (mod) -

Because you said you were on a public water supply I think my investigation would start at the pressure reducing valve or water pressure regulator for your house.

On 2020-06-15 by Leeth

My water pressure in my whole house is normal for about 5 seconds then goes down to a trickle. We are NOT on a well. We fixed a toilet the other day and had an issue where we turned off the water supply. It was fine for about 24 hours but wondering if it is something related to that.

On 2020-05-25 0 9 - by (mod) - most common cause of the temporary water pressure loss

Mike

The most common causees of the short, temporary water pressure loss that you describe are

1. Well with an active inflow of water is nevertheless running dry and pump is being protected by a pump protection switch that shuts off the pump while well recovers - this can be as short as a few minutes, or can take a day or longer.

2. a pressure control switch that is not responding when it should to the change in water pressure.

That can happen if the sensor port on the switch or the tube conducting pressure to the switch is debris clogged. Try replacing those parts.

On 2020-05-25 by Mike E

I have a shower and lose all my water. I turn the tap off less than 15-20 seconds and the water comes back. I replaced the pressure gauge (it was totally blocked and it is still happening? Any ideas?

On 2020-05-22 - by (mod) -

So we need to identify what devices are found between your hot water heating device input and its output or plumbing fixtures that receive hot water so that we can determine what's causing pressure variation.

If you told me that pressure on both cold and hot buried I would suspect a pressure regulator or booster pump.

On 2020-05-22 by Anonymous

No we are on a city water supply.

On 2020-05-22 - by (mod) -

Dean

Thank you for the interesting question. It's not a circumstance that I have encountered.

If you see that pressure change only on hot water it's even more of a mystery. If you see the pressure change on both hot and cold I would suspect a short cycling water pressure pump. I suppose it's possible that the configuration of your cold and hot water piping is such that the pump cycling would be more noticeable on the hot circuit.

So the first question is are you on well water and is there a water pump in is the pressure tank waterlogged?

On 2020-05-22 by Dean

We have great water pressure in our house. However, if one Hot water tap is running (e.g. sink, shower, bathtub...) and a second tap is turned on, both flows become intermittent on an opposite pattern for about 1 second each.

Tap A is on, tap B is off...1 second later tap A is off, tap B is on. This pattern keeps repeating until one is turned off. Flow instantly goes back to normal with the one tap on. What could be the possible cause?

On 2020-05-16 - by (mod) - It's possible to fix or replace a bad water faucet yourself if you have basic tools and nerve.

Lisa,

It's possible to fix or replace a bad water faucet yourself if you have basic tools and nerve. I'll be glad to help.

First though:

1. You need at best a shutoff on the cold water supply line close to the tub where your faucet needs repair, and ideally shutting off cold water only and only to the tub. That way we can turn off that fixture and work on it without having to shut down water to the whole bathroom or worse, to the whole building.

So before touching or disassembling any parts of the faucet we need to know that we can turn off the water.

Otherwise we could have a terrible building flood.

So look around, see if there is an access panel that gives access into the wall behind the bath tub faucets, and if not, look for shutoff valves, tell me what you can find.

Unless you want to risk having to shut down the whole building's water for some indefinite time, don't take anything apart yet.

On 2020-05-16 by Lisa

The cold water faucet in the tub only puts out water after turning it 1/3 open and then there is very fine line between a dribble and a normal flow. I have lived with this for 10+ years because I can't afford a plumber. With the stay at home order, however, I have plenty of time and was wondering if I could fix it myself.

On 2020-05-15 - by (mod) -

I suspect that your water pressure tank is partly waterlogged, or if the tank uses a membrane, the membrane has leaked, reducing the possible air volume (now filled partly with water) so shortening the drawdown cycle.

But of course I'm far away and can't see a thing of your installation, so I'm reduced to guessing based on brief text.

On 2020-05-15 by James

Well pump runs to 65psi and switch cuts off. When water demanded pressure slowly drops until it gets under 60 psi then quickly drops to 35 within 1 or 2 seconds and pump kicks on sending pressure quickly back up to 65.

On 2019-04-22 - by (mod) -

That's a pretty decent draw-down cycle.

The singing shower head - if I understand that you're citing a noise issue and not a compliment about the wonderful shower and not about what you do therein - may be due to water velocity - try slightly closing the main water valve or just changing valves right at the shower,

Now I'm unclear what problem remains.

On 2019-04-22 by Jan

Thank s for your reply. I timed the water gauge and it's at about 1 min 20 sec to make one full cycle. Is this quite common?
The water pressure fluctuates between high to medium, sometime really high.

The shower sings. there is a underground buried tank. The new pump is a Grundfos ( a two wire pump) not using control box. Right after the pump was put it. The water pressure issues happened. The previous pump is a 3 wire pump. What could cause this problem. Thanks!

On 2019-04-17 - by (mod) -

That's rather short. Especially if your buried tank is a large one.

On 2019-04-17 by Jan

Thank you so much for your prompt reply and the info There is a underground buried water tank.
Is 40 second cycle considered short cycling?

On 2019-04-16 - by (mod) - water pressure fluctuates after a new well pump is put in

Jan I think you are describing rapid on-off cycling of a well pump that usually is traced to a water-logged pressure tank.

See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING to diagnose and fix this condition.

On 2019-04-16 by Jan

My water pressure fluctuates after a new well pump is put in about 5 months ago. The water pressure goes up and down when taking a shower. and my pipe sings. The water gauge fluctuates between 38 and 60 psi in about 10 seconds.

The well installer then blew air in the tank out. But it still fluctuates, the water gauge fluctuates between 38 and 60 psi in about 40 seconds now.

I have yellowish water ( after I run the water softener). Any insights of the problems and solutions?

On 2018-03-09 - by (mod) -

Shawna:

Does the pump run at all?

Is the gauge accurate or might it be stuck - did you tap on it?

I ask because 41psi ought to give functional water pressure in your home.

Yes certainly you can try warming up the utility room.

Keep us posted.

On 2018-03-09 by Shawna

We have a newish (6 months old) 86 gal Water Worker pressurized well tank that was working pretty well.

We shut the well pump off and drained the water from taps. we were gone for a week during a hard freeze (no heat at all in the house during our absence), came back, turned everything back on and now have little or no water pressure. pressure tank gauge reads 41 psi currently, which is within recommended range.

kitchen faucet has VERY little pressure, bathroom faucet better, but still weak and runs down quickly and outdoor bib barely a trickle when it used to gush. wondering if there could be an ice block in the tank or the lines?

we opened taps after shutting down the pump to drain lines, but run out was super quick (which is weird cause the tank holds a ton) we did not close off the water where it comes into the house. i can't come up with any other reason...

thinking about putting an electric heater in the utility room and letting it run for awhile? any ideas out there?

Question: Water pressure varies from very high to very low in just a few minutes

my water pressure gets real low then it gets real high and have full blast pressure and then it cuts back down and then in a few minutes it goes back to full pressure - David

Reply: diagnosing water pressure problems, where to start

David:

Often when we find the water supply system misbehaving by showing intermittent pressure changes and surges I suspect that the pressure control switch is not working, perhaps because debris has clogged the sensor on the switch.

Your comment that the water pressure is varying from very low to very high in a very short time is very suggestive of a water-logged water pressure tank.

See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING to diagnose this condition.

Otherwise, to help troubleshoot this intermittent water pressure problem you might want to take a look at our WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE

Question: our water cuts out for about 45 seconds then come back on with the same or more water pressure as before

We have been having issues with our water. We have a well. and when we take showers or use the washer.. not so much with the tap but just things that use a lot more water our water cuts out for about 45 seconds then come back on with the same or more water pressure as before.

It's annoying but now more nerve raking thinking it could be something way worse or more costly! I don't hear the tank in our house clicking on and off constantly so I don't think its that but I will say there is lots of condensation around the tank and it has caused us to have a very bad mould problem in our spare bedroom.. with a 14 month old that is unacceptable for me. but could the condensation have something to do with our water problem possibly before hiring somebody to take a look at it. our tank says it needs a max of 100 psi for air pressure and it only has 70 psi.. not sure if that means anything or not since I am not very knowledgeable in the plumbing field? please help! - Krista

Reply: check your pressure control switch for clogging or just try replacing it

Krista it sounds as if a pressure control switch is sticking and not turning the pump on and off on schedule. A clogged pressure control switch could be at fault - if so it's not a major repair.

Condensation at a water tank is normal in humid weather; it'd be worse if water was being run continuously; and it might also be reduced by insulating the water tank. (Don't cover up controls or valves or safety devices).

Your water pressure tank should NEVER be reading 100 psi - that's an abnormally high water pressure that is asking for a leak or even a dangerous condition. Typical water pressures are on/off at 20/40 or 30/50 psi.

Probably you were reading the maximum safe pressure that the tank manufacturer says the tank can tolerate without exploding, not the normal or required working pressure settings.

Question: Our pump runs when we are not calling for water, water flow slows and stops sometimes, and water pressure at the tank falls when we are not running water at all

I have a similar issue. First we experienced intermittent running of our well tank. The tank would run when we were not calling for water. We had the tank replaced and upgraded from 20 gallons to 35 gallons.

Our pressure switch is set at 30/50 psi. We were told that the valve(??) was bad because water did not shoot out and air was sucked back in when the tank was replaced. Since having the tank replaced, the psi still decreases when we're not running water. In addition a new problem has started.

Our water slows down and then stops completely for about 15 seconds during various times of the day (showers, washing dishes, etc.) and the water will spit at times (running faucets or when the toilet fills up). We verified that we have no leaks in or around the house. Our pump is submersible. Thank you very much.

Reply: Check for a leaky foot valve or check valve; check for leaks in well piping between the well bottom and the pressure tank

I'm not sure what "valve" you were told was bad. Perhaps a foot valve or check valve? A bad check valve or foot valve can lead to loss of pump prime and thus loss of water pressure. While that cause and symptom are not usually intermittent but rather a hard failure, a slow leak in a check valve or foot valve could show on occasion up as intermittent water pressure loss.

That is, if water is being run frequently and the leaky valve is a slow leak, the pump may retain enough water to not lose prime (assuming we're talking about an above-ground well pump here). But when water is left off for a longer period and the slow leak has time to lose more water from the pump, piping, and even pressure tank, one could lose water pressure.

The fact that you replaced the water tank and are not running water but still see a loss of water pressure read on the gauge at the tank is a strong suggestion that you have either


- a leaky check valve or foot valve
- a leak in well piping somewhere between the bottom of the well and the pressure tank in the building.

When your well pump is submersible (yours), you won't experience loss of prime (the pump is under water and always can prime itself). But you can see air in the well piping and water tank system and loss of water pressure as we've both described.

The "spitting" you describe at faucets or at a toilet can be caused by air entering the well piping through the same leak that in other pressure conditions lets water leak out.

I think it's time to have a plumber or well expert investigate the well piping for leaks.

Question: My water stops for 3-4 minutes, then restarts; and we get silt in tubs

my water runs fine for a few minutest, then stops for 3 or4 minutes, then starts back up. runs a while, stops, etc. getting silt in tubs too. pipes rumble when water pump runs now. that's new too. any help? - Anon

Reply: Check for sediment clogging and blocking proper response of the pump pressure control switch

When the water flow stops, has your pump also stopped?
Is there a sediment filter on your system?
Is the pump pressure control working properly ? - it could be clogged.

Question: how do I prime my well pump?

Reply: see WELL PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE

Question: We are losing just our HOT Water pressure. Cold water pressure is fine. What might be wrong?

I have an identical problem and again it is only with the HOT WATER but no pressure valve in the equation. ....except the ones on the outside of the house on the main line from the street and I have no problem with the Cold pressure only the HOT WATER and it stops as u said when another fixture is turned on elsewhere....this in turn makes the dishwasher not work properly.... R. Lane

PS I did turn the cold water inlet cutoff valve all the way open that is leading into HOT water heater....
No remedy. ...Thanks

Reply: Look for an intermittent water flow blockage in the hot water system, including cold water inlet and the water heater tank dip tube

R Lane you have already checked a key control, the cold water inlet shutoff at your water heater.

I think we are looking at two possible water pressure problem sources:
- problem in cold water entering the heater

- problem in hot water leaving the heater

or on occasion, hot water clogging at

- a tankless coil or at individual faucets or

- fixtures at the control valve

Although you see no problem with the cold water pressure and thus its piping and valves, before you rule out cold water piping entirely, consider that there could be a blockage of cold water flowing into the water heater.

You could have a blockage of cold water entering the water heater, for example, if the dip tube through which that water flows is damaged, bent, clogged; I've seen a plastic dip tube that disintegrated leaving large scraps of plastic debris inside the water heater. If some of those are floating around - stirred up by water entering the heater, they could intermittently interfere with hot water flow out.

Or debris in the piping, at a shutoff valve or piping elbow could cause a similar problem.

If you are sure that this problem is intermittent, and affects hot only, and you are on a municipal supply whose pressure does not vary, I'd check further by:

Draining the water heater (WATER HEATER FLUSH PROCEDURE) and inspect for debris - possibly leading to a flush-out and a new dip tube (see WATER HEATER ANODES, DIP TUBES)

Confirming that this hot water problem is at ALL plumbing fixtures - if NOT at ALL fixtures, there could be a debris problem in a hot water valve or faucet or in hot water lines or a control valve feeding just one area of the building.

Take a look at the diagnostic suggestions at HOT WATER PRESSURE LOSS and at HOT WATER QUANTITY IMPROVEMENT

Follow-up: R Lane

R. Lane: I think your last sentence is what is wrong, that what it is a SINGLE faucet and the Dishwasher is getting older and coincidently is going out. ...I do appreciate you taking time to help. ...Thanks Sir

Comment:

R Lane, it would be unusual for water pressure for a single faucet to come and go but I can think of a few possible explanations that each need further investigation:

- is someone or some appliance (a dishwasher) intermittently running water elsewhere on the same plumbing circuit - that can often divert pressure away from the faucet you are observing?

- is there a problem specific to hot water supply that makes pressure vary only on hot (or cold) pressures?

- on some occasions a blockage in a pipe can behave intermittently itself, as I picture a piece of debris moving so that it acts on occasion as a stop in the pipe and at other times, perhaps by position, permitting water to pass more easily. In contrast, debris at a faucet strainer just gets worse, it doesn't go away.

Follow up: R. Lane

You know you may have something there sir. ..Funny both the hot water at the kitchen faucet and the dishwasher right next to it are the only things affected...in these bad economic times we have dealt with by hand washing and if we slowly turn on the hot water at that faucet it will go to full flow so definitely a blockage somewhere. ..Again I sincerely I appreciate your help you are of sterling character to offer so generously offer your wisdom and I appreciate it

Question: well pump not pumping any water, recovers when shut off overnight

oops I didn't put my name. I was asking about our well not pumping any water. We shut off power to it over night and turned back on the next morning and it worked. Now the same thing has happened. I'm hoping it works in the morning. What can this be? Where should we start?

Well is the only way we have to get water. City will not come out this far in the woods. It's a submersible pump. - Cindy Howard

Reply:

Cindy usually when water pressure recovers over night the cause is a poor well flow rate - running out of water. There may be other more less common causes however. See WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE for some troubleshooting suggestions.

Follow-up:

Ours turned out to be a bad pressure tank. The bladder burst and we had to replace it. Works great now. - Cindy

Comment:

Sometimes a burst bladder in a water pressure tank gives strange water pressure behavior - because sometimes water can flow into or out of the pressure tank while other times, when the bladder becomes stuck over the tank inlet/outlet, no water flows.

Also such tanks can become waterlogged, leading to pump short cycling.

Question: We have a deep well with no yield. Could the water table be varying seasonally?

deep well .... no water coming out... have replaced with new pipe... made sure it was not clogged and not pulling up sand. is there such a thing as the water table in the dry season, dropping too low for the pump to draw? - Agatha Brooks

Reply from Sam Waite:

For Agatha Brooks
All Wells regardless of pipe or depth have common components and require exactly the same procedures. Even oil wells.

Yes, the water table level fluctuates in wells according to the season. During the dry summer season and when a 'neighbor' or city installs a 2,000 gal per minute pump within a mile of your well the water level will go down 6-15 feet.

Your pump can become clogged or obstructed down the well by dirt and sand that has filled in your well.

When performing any work that requires removing the well pipe or the submersible pump. ALWAYS do the following, make sure that the following is accomplished because a well services company will list the service on your bill, even if they do not perform the work.

1. Wells, with time and earthquakes can fill with dirt and sand. Material sloughing or falling off the wells vertical walls. Therefore ALWAYS after pulling your pipe stock and pump out of the well.

a. Have the well "cavitated." What this means is that explosives will be lowered to the depth of where the pump will be and then exploded. This creates a subsurface cavity about the size of a swimming pool where water can then pool for your pump. This cavity should be free of obstructions.

Watch out: we do not recommend explosives to increase well yield. While this was common practice in some areas of the U.S. in the 1940's and earlier, modern well yield improvements that have the same underlying principle (cracking rock to increase water flow) are done using hydro-fracking - much safer and usually guaranteed.("Cavitating a water well" refers to attempts to fracture the rock that feeds water into the well.) - Ed.

b. Then have the well "Backwashed."

What this means is that a large pipe will inserted into the well to the bottom and they will then pump out all of the loose sand, dirt, gravel and fossils. There will be a mound of this material when done near the well working area. This large rock and gravel friendly industrial pump is something you most likely do not own and cannot rent.

2. With your new water pipe insert one anti-siphon valve (a one-way flap valve) for every 60 or 100 feet of pipe.

You must have at least one of these in the vertical pipe. This valve prevents water in surface pipes, from flowing back down into your well. One of these valves should be near the surface well pipe connection. Yes, anti-siphon valves can freeze in place rendering them useless.

Question: what is the relationship between water pressure, well flow, and weather?

Does warm weather play a factor in water pressure? Every summer our water pressure lowers in the months of July & August. Thank you - Kevin

Reply: seasonal drops in water table in an area can affect well yield or flow rate

There can indeed be relationship between warm weather and water "pressure" though I'd call it a relation between warm weather and reduced well flow rate, or less water delivered by some wells, that may appear in the building as reduced "pressure" depending on how some folks talk about water flow.

North of the equator during July in particular, a hot dry summer can mean that local water tables drop and the level of water in some wells will drop too.

Question: Repeated losses of water pressure and tripping circuit breakers

We have lost water pressure on three occasions now. The first time, the septic breaker was flipped, and resetting this brought back water pressure. The second and third time the breaker was not flipped, just no water. Pressure needle below the pressure tank showed zero each time. Any suggestions on what to look for?

Reply: Check pump, pump wiring, pump control switches and relays

Colt,
I think you mean the circuit breaker tripped (not the septic breaker). A tripping breaker, if the electrical wiring and breaker themselves are OK, means the pump was drawing high current - a possible sign of a failing pump motor or a hard-starting pump motor (search InspectAPedia for hard start motor capacitor kits).

The fact that the breaker is not any longer tripped and you had no water argues for a dead pump or a bad or defective pressure switch.

Follow-Up:

Turned out to be a pressure switch fouled with Iron/sediment. Repairman recommended installing a filter between the well and the pressure tank to keep this out of the plumbing. Thanks - Colt

Question:

(Mar 27, 2014 Anonymous (no email)

COMMENT:I'm on city water and the pressure coming to the house is good and consistent . In the past week we have experienced a loss of pressure through out the house about 6 times. The pressure has always returned on its own shortly thereafter. Tonight when the pressure went down I scurried to the water softener and turned the by pass valve to by pass the softener and the water pressure in the house returned to normal instantly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Reply:

Anon: start by calling your municipal water authority to ask if they've been seeing system pressure variations.

if you had a leak or a failed water pressure regulator I'd not expect pressure to diminish and then increase on its own.

Also look for other fixtures running in the building when you see lower pressure (or more accurately, flow rate) in the water system.

Question:

(Sept 17, 2014) clheartscj said:
We live on the bottom floor of a 3 story Condo, and have 1 bathroom. I believe there are 27 units in my building. Some are 1 bathroom & some are 2 ba. About a year ago, we had our mixit cartridge replaced and everything was great in our shower.

Then 6 months ago, a pipe burst that ran through a garage behind our bathroom, but it was the neighbor's pipe. This neighbor backs up to us. We have a shared wall. Ever since right after that plumbing emergency, the entire building has started having a problem with sudden (w/o any warning!) scalding water bouts in the shower.

Also, the water that comes out of the bathroom cold water faucet starts out at 100-110 degrees, for up to 30 seconds before getting cool and the water pressure fluctuates from a steady stream to a weak stream for up to 30+ seconds at a time on all faucets.

I've learned that if I run the dishwasher when I take a shower, it seems to lessen the scalding water episodes. Perhaps because it's taking its share of HOT water coming into the unit?? One more thing, the boiler that's for our building had a big leak, or pipe burst about 3 months ago. I'm not too sure of the details, but the area was flooded & it took the plumbers 2 days to complete the repair.
Excuse my long post, but I'm at my wit's end with this.

I cannot let my 7 year old niece take a shower when she visits this weekend! Our HOA & Property manager are stubborn & refuse to acknowledge the problem that our building has. She tells us to get a pressure balance valve installed. Well, I believe that would basically be a $500-$800 "bandaid" on a deeper problem.

We have lived here for 8 years, without any of the above mentioned problems, until 6 months ago! Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I need to be armed with some knowledge when I confront my HOA again, so I don't get shut down as usual.
Thank you,
Cheryl

(Nov 23, 2014) Russ hatter said:

We live in a two story frame dwelling built around 1920. In 2005 we added a back room with bathroom facilities. We have always known that the size of water pipe were old and of a smaller size. But even with that we always have had good water pressure for shower taking.

Recently we replaced a 20 year old water heater and shortly after that we noticed irregular water pressure in the shower. It seemed to return when I pulled upward on the spigot and held it for a few seconds - a few weeks later that procedure was no longer working.

For the past month or so I have been the first to use the showering the very early morning - I got good pressure every time I used the shower. But once I turned the shower off it would never return to a full pressure shower for the rest of the family.

Two plumbers have suggested we replace the old pipes in the basement - if that fails to restore pressure they are suggesting we need to replace the exterior pipes from the house to the municipal connect. At a cost of several thousand dollars. Is there any possibility that the problem could be in the old shower kit?

Reply:

Russ you ask an interesting question but I'm doubtful I can answer it from just the data in your query. Indeed clogged piping will reduce water flow rate and that can be experienced as "lower pressure" especially if a second fixture is operating at the same time.

But if water pressure is sometimes good and sometimes bad, it doesn't quite make sense to blame piping or the new water heater. First check to see if something else is running at the same time.

In any event, I'd want a more careful diagnosis of the trouble before launching into a costly repair.

Question:

(Nov 26, 2014) Emily said:
Our home is four years old. We have two hot water heaters.

The bathroom faucets and showers work fine but the kitchen faucet has poor pressure. We replaced the faucet but that did not solve the problem. One of the bathrooms is on the same hot water heater. What could the problem be?

Reply:

Emily

First let's figure out which heater is serving which area;

Next if the heater serving the area where water pressure is poor, confirm that that is true ONLY for hot water - else it's a system piping issue ahead of the water heater, or a problem with clogged faucet or shower strainers.

If the problem is only for hot water, and if the problem has always been there, I suspect a bad control valve, a solder blocked valve, elbow or tee, etc.

If the problem is only recent I suspect debris clogging at the water heater outlet, possibly a disintegrating dip tube - depending on what type of water heater you've got. At that point it's time to ask for help from your plumber.

Question:

(Dec 19, 2014) Mary Jo said:
1999 Jucuzzi brand pressure pump has always been about 20 or 30--tonight it is indicating maybe 40 or 50. Is this increase creating a dangerous situation?? The "resivoir of water" has been leaking so have been releasing water to stop leakage until "resivoir" can be repaired. Tonight noticing increase in pressure gauge. Appreciate your advice. Thank you!!

Reply:

Mary Jo

above at CONTINUE READING see WATER PRESSURE MEASUREMENT

for methods to actually measure the water pressure independently so that we have better idea what's happening

Question:

(Dec 31, 2014) Randy F said:
I have a strange one for you. When I open the valve on the kitchen faucet all is good up until about 1/4 on, but as soon as I go past the sweet spot it sputters audibly and then slows way down. Not quite a trickle, but not full pressure either. I did an experiment today.

I started the bathroom faucet before the one in the kitchen and it worked flawlessly. I'm pretty sure the kitchen faucet is to blame, but I don't want to just throw parts at it. Am I on the right track?

Thanks
Randy

Reply:

Randy,

Do,you think an O-ring might be askew?

Question:

(Feb 6, 2015) John said:
I have an above ground pump connected to an above ground tank which as worked fine until recently.The problem is the pump is starting and stopping quickly giving a pulsating water supply. I have a positive 2 metre water head into the pump and one outlet tap 1 metre above pump .

Pump is rated a 43 metre head. The pipes, valves and pump have all been dismantled and inspected for damage and/or blockage. The pressure controller is a Type D as per photo at the beginning of this article. Pump motor is not over warm.
Has anyone any clues?

Reply:

John from what you describe the best diagnostics will be found in ARTICLE INDEX starting with the article titled

WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING - home

Question:

24 Feb 2015 nonymous said:
I have no water pressure in kitchen, stop running, but water running in bathrooms.

25 Feb 2015 Andrea said:
I have a well with above ground pump. Every faucet/shower in house will have water pressure for 10-15 min then it will trickle down until it stops. The pressure gauge will drop below zero. It takes up to 20 min to recover and then we get full pressure again.

Also, if we turn on outside hose we loose all water in house. I replaced the gauge & switch 4 months ago. Before I replaced them it was cycling at a faster rate. (We were unable to get a shower, at least now we have 15min) I believe I have a lot of sediment and there is an old galvanized pipe coming into pump and out of pump that I'm worried is creating problems.

I'm thinking of replacing whole system. I am also unsure if I need to replace air tank as well. I am wondering what your thoughts are? Also, If I replace pump & Pipes can I hook up a filter before pump to avoid clogging with sediment?

Reply:

Andrea

It sounds as if your well flow rate is less than the pump rate. Replacing pump equipment won't fix that problem. You'll want to try increasing the well yield, adding larger storage tanks, or installing pump protection equipment to avoid burning up the pump.

See WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH

...

Continue reading at WATER PRESSURE INTERMITTENT LOSS - topic home, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see WATER PRESSURE INTERMITTENT LOSS FAQs-2 - more-recent Q&A about irregular intermittent loss of water pressure

Or see these

Recommended Articles

• NO WATER PRESSURE
• WATER PRESSURE BAD at SOME FIXTURES
• WATER PRESSURE FALLS BRIEFLY THEN STOPS
• WATER PRESSURE FALLS SLOWLY, ERRATIC PUMP
• WATER PRESSURE INTERMITTENT LOSS
• WATER PRESSURE TABLE 1: PUMP WON'T RUN, WON'T STOP, or CYCLES
• WATER PRESSURE STOPS, RETURNS
• WATER PRESSURE VARIATION CAUSES
• WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING
• WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING
• WATER PUMP WON'T START
• WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING

Suggested citation for this web page

WATER PRESSURE INTERMITTENT LOSS FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

Or see this

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS

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