Water pump or well pump pressure control switch setting FAQs.

This article series describes how to adjust building water pressure by setting the water pump cut-in and cut-out pressure on the well water pump pressure control switch.

What are the Usual Water Pump and Tank Pressure Control Settings in PSI?

These questions and answers about how to set the pump pressure control switch CUT-IN and CUT-OUT or DIFFERENTIAL pressures were posted originally at PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH STANDARD (PSI) SETTINGS - be sure to review that article.

On 2020-11-27 - by (mod) -

Susan

Good going on measuring the pressure tank's pressure.

If you turn the pump OFF and then run water at a nearby tap until it stops, at the pressure tank you should expect to see about 2 psi less than the pump's CUT-IN pressure.

So a switch set to CUT-IN/CUT-OUT of 30/50 psi would mean we set the air pressure pre-charge on the tank - under the conditions I just described - to about 28 psi.

Now later-on someone may have set-up the pressure gauge to cut in and out at a higher range of 40/60.

If the pump is working ok like that you can keep those settings, but your pressure tank should be pre-charged to 38 psi.

On 2020-11-27 by susan

my pump pressure gauge is reading 40 psi at kick in and shut of at approximately 60 psi. I took my tire gauge and checked tank. Its reading 27 psi. The setting required on pump is saying kick in at 30 and off at 50. What does this discrepancy imply?
thanks for any advice

On 2020-10-13 - by (mod) -

Normally we only use one pressure control switch.

On 2020-10-13 by Anonymous

I have a new jet well pump it has a pressure control on this i also have a new blue tank with a pressure switch are both needed.

On 2020-08-03 by Cynthia Willey

Installed the new tank and switch and flushed system. Normally the switch works correctly when just using the house water. When turning water on for the yard, you can’t open 2 faucets at the same time. The pump turns off and it won’t restart. We have to use the manual switch to restart.

On 2020-07-07 - by (mod) -

Joel

Since the water pressure tank is pressurized by the water pump the tank's water pressure will never exceed the pump's pressure.

Here's an example of how water pressure varies in a private Pump and Well system.

Using a 20/40 pressure control switch as an example, the cut in pressure is 20 psi and the cutout is 40 PSI.

Let's start from the position in which state pump has just been on and his brought the system pressure up to 40 PSI and then stopped and no water is running in the building. At that point the pressure in the water pressure tank and building water supply piping is at 40 PSI.

When you open a water tap for example and sink, water begins to flow and is pushed to the fixture by the water pressure tank. Pressure then begins to fall from 40 and will fall continuously as you use water until the pressure in the system reaches 20 psi.

At that point the pressure control switch turns on the pump. The pump begins to repressurise but system. If you are drawing water at a rate less than the rate at which the pump can deliver water from the well, then the pump will eventually get ahead and as you are drawing water the pressure will increase up to the cut out pressure of 40. At that point the pump will turn off and the pressure will Begin to Fall Again.

In some buildings you can actually see the variation in water pressure as the pump is turning on and off under control of the pressure control switch and in response to changes in the building water system pressure.

On 2020-07-07 by Joel

Would the water pressure be greater from the output of the pump or from the output of the tank?

On 2019-04-26 - by (mod) -

Terrol

Most often that problem is traced to a pressure control switch sensor Port that is debris clogged. I would replace the switch and clear or replace the tube that conducts water pressure to it.

On 2019-04-25 by Terrol Rood

my pump drops 10 pounds then cuts in.set at 60 cuts in at 50 set at 50 cuts in at 40

Question: pump runs out of water, recovers in 5-10 minutes, gauge and switch kicks on/off at pressures different than our switch settings

My well is not quite a year old, we have always had plenty of water and pressure. we have been watering trees in yard, now for some reson our pup runs out of water

It recovers with in 5 to 10 min . The guage kicks on at 40 ps and should kick off at 60 or so. It kicks on fine but kicks out at 50 , is it the pressure switch? If I hold the switch down manually it pups and kicks out at 60 or 65 - Shaun Aden 8/4/11

Reply:

Shaun the pump might still be actually going off at 60 if the gauge is clogged with debris and reading inaccurately. Else if no one "adjusted" the switch and it's cutting off early it's time to replace it.

Question: how to turn off the well pump if the tank has no water?

how to switch off a motor pump if the cistern tank has no more water ? - Roselle 8/11/11

Reply:

Roselle every pump circuit should have a manual service switch installed for manual cutoff. If someone wired the pump directly with no local on-off switch that would be unusual

but in that case you'd have to find and turn off the breaker or remove the fuse controlling the electrical circuit for the pump. If there is no electrical switch to turn off the pump, ask your electrician to install one at next electrical work.

If you are asking how to prevent the pump from running when there is no water available, ask your well or plumbing supplier about a tailpiece that prevents the pump from running or running dry when the water level falls too low in the well or cistern.

Question: Reverse Osmose system installed, need more house pressure - RO works at 39 PSI

Great site! I installed an RO system to replace an old RO that failed because of pressure (new permeate pump booster).

After I did this I wanted to increase house pressure, thought I'll boost the air tank from 30 psi to 50 psi, then I pulled the pressure line on the jet pump to clean. What a nightmare! water everywhere, crud from the sensor, got it all back together, turned it on a start-stop cylcling!

Turned out the tank pressure was to high without adjusting the pressure switch. After all the helpful info here I just started dropping the tank pressure down to 39 and the problem was solved! Thanks guys, next I might try raising the cut in cut off. - Alan McKee 8/17/11

Reply:

Alan, glad our water pressure articles were helpful. Indeed the pressure tank air charge is not what determines house water pressure - that's controlled by the pressure control switch, as you observed.

Question: changed water filter, various confusing symptoms

After changing a water filter for the first time, my tank emtied out b/c I had turned off the wrong valve and never turned back on.

After a week the tank empties out and the pump started over pumping. This was noticeable but I was having another problem with a hole in another line so did not associate the second problem. Eventually are was lost and I had to turn off the pump.

The pump lost pressure prior to my turning off. The only water lost was from the pressure change, but, after steam had started to escape. Now, I need to restore the pressure Flotec 4022-10. I was told to tighten the bolt more but want to know if anything else and what to expect. - Sera D 8/18/11

Reply:

Sera D, I'm sorry but I don't understand your question.

Question: no water and no pump working following a power failure

I had a power failure today and now that the power has returned I still don't have water. I reset the breakers just in case with no effect. The pressure gauge next to the switch still says 50psi but no water is coming out of the taps. Never had a problem with this system before.

It is a pumptrol like in your picture. It doesn't have a lever on the side like I've seen in other pictures. Any ideas? - Alex D 8/18/11

Reply:

Alex:

Following a power failure or a lightning strike there are a number of possible sources of well and pump trouble. Starting with the clues in your question.

• As your gauge says your system is at 50 psi but yet you have no water coming out of the taps, I wonder if the pressure gauge (and thus potentially the pressure control switch too) are dirt clogged and not registering pressure changes - try tapping on the gauge to see if it moves; replace a clogged gauge, pressure switch, or mounting pipe nipple or plastic line feeding water pressure to the switch sensor.
• Have your electrician or other expert check for the presence of voltage at the pump and control switch
• Check for a lightning strike that shorted wiring, burned wiring, or damaged the pump motor - see
  • ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
  • DMM DIGITAL MULTIMETER HOW TO USE

Question: pressure goes up higher than pressure control switch setting

After turning off the power to my well pump and pressure switch and bleed the water pressure down to 25 psi; I returned about 10 minutes later and the pressure had gone back to 80 PSI. This is a 30/50 psi switch. Why would the pressure go back without the power to the pump and switch being on? Thanks - Steve Holloway 8/19/11

Reply:

It's embarrassing to keep guessing at the same cause for so many problems, but if the pressure gauge is accurate and working properly I suspect the pressure switch is not getting a good indication of system water pressure - check for debris clogging.

Question: pump used for lawn irrigation shuts down after a minute but I can force it to run.

I use my pump for irrigation for my lawn. Lately, The pump engages and provides enough pressure for the sprinkler heads to start. After about 1 minute, the pressure switch cuts out and turns the pump off. If I go to the switch and hold up the lever on the left side, the pump engages again and holds pressure 30-40 psi for the remainder of the cycle. Bad switch? Any help is appreciated, thanks. - Dean G 8/20/11

Additionally, no adjustments have been made since the system was installed 4 years ago. It has been working fine until recently.

Reply:

Check for an overheating water pump and check for a clogged pressure sensor

Question: Square D pressure switch set 30-50, can I eliminate the low pressure cut-in?

I Have suare D switch 30-50 lb. with low pressure shut off. It causes me a lot of trouble when I fill large livestock tanks,can I modify the switch to eliminate the low pressure shut off feature or must i replace the switch. thanks - Mike Jones 8/22/11

Reply:

Mike,

I'm not sure what trouble you're having with the pressure control switch, and that those details might be diagnostic.

If the pump is short cycling that's usually a pressure tank problem not a switch problem.

If the switch is burning up while staying "on" you might need to go to a two-switch system in which the Square-D switch switches on a heavy duty relay that turns on and off the pump.

Question:

First of all, my apologies if this question has already been asked and answered, I'm new to the site. I believe I have a short cycling problem. This is a cottage application. The pump cuts in at 28 psi and charges to about 42 psi and then cuts out. When the pump cuts out the pressure on the gauge drops immediately to 30 psi. Then of course after a short water usage the pump cuts in and repeats the above. The cycle used to be charge up to 42 psi, cut out and settle at 40 psi, draw down to 30 psi and then the pump would cut in. This problem started after I needed to replace a foot valve in the cistern. Do you think it's a pressure problem in my bladder tank? If so, how can I return it the original cycle described above. Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide. - Dan Lowry 8/27/11

Reply:

Dan that sounds like short cycling to me. I've often seen that a pressure gauge reads higher when the pump is running and drops at pump shutoff. But when you add that running just a few gallons of water turns the pump back on, that suggests that the tank has lost its air charge. If your tank really has an internal bladder, that's not supposed to happen. So if you have indeed lost the air charge, the bladder may be torn or damaged.

Question: I'm having trouble getting the right settings on the pressure control switch

I have just replaced all parts between the well pump and the pipe going into the house, reason was I had a leak and a broken check valve so the system was sucking in air and letting the water reside back down into the well.

My issue now is, that I have a cut in at 38 PSI, and should have a 20 PSI delta, however the Presure Switch does not turn off until 66 PSI. I have adjusted the big nut to get the cut in down to 38, used to be higher, however I an not able to get the pump to turn off at 58 / 60 PSI. The little nut is released to the point where the spring is almost loose, any suggestions or do I have a "Old" faulty pressure switch and need to replace it?

I have put in new pressure tank and the pump runs approx 3 min from when it kicks in at 38 PSI, to it has put pressure on the systems to 66 PSI, however if we have 2 faucets open at the same time the system struggles to get to 66 PSI - Thomas 9/1/11

Here is a little info I gathered, from what I have read mine system seems like it has some poor adjustments:
I have a Square D 9013FSQ2 Pressure Switch I checked my cut-in which is 58lbs and cut-out at 69 lbs and i put a tire guage on my pressure tank and it read 70 lbs seems a little crazy. I have a submersible pump at a depth of 120'. I am going to replace the pressure switch since I feel that is my breaker popping problem. But with these readings I have bad adjustments. it has been like this for almost 11 years now, just dont want future problems. Could someone help me with what all these settings should be and best way to adjust them. I like higher pressure for watering lawn etc. but dont want problems. - David 11/5/11

Reply:

Thomas I wonder if you carried the adjustment too far. Typically residential switches run 20/40 or 30/50 psi.

Check the labels and instructions that are on your switch to be double sure it works the same way as the models I've described above.

It isn't odd for a pump to run continuously when multiple faucets are open - it's a function of the pump's ability to deliver water (gpm, or pump horsepower) AND the well flow rate.

Question: water leak at the pressure control switch

think I have all that adjusted correctly but I have a small water leak at the pressure switch.... I'm assuming there is a gasket in there that needs to be changed? am I right? - Kerry 9.14/11

water is leaking up through the base of the pressure switch. what did I do wrong? - Jerry Jandreau 7/2/12

Reply:

Check the bottom of the switch for plumbing leaks. If there are no leaks at pipe connections I suspect the switch diaphragm is ruptured - replace the switch.

Question: should the pressure sensing tube to the switch contain water?

I am replacing the control switch on my pump. My question is does the small line (1/4") running from the pump to the switch have to be filled with water? will an air gap cause pressure reading problems? - John O 9/25/11

Reply:

John O I wondered the same thing - does the small diameter copper or plastic tubing connecting the pressure sensor base of the pressure control switch to the water pump (or pressure tank) need to be filled with water or not? It should not make any difference. The pressure switch senses pressure by water or air pressing in on a diaphraghm located on the switch bottom. The diaphraghm doesn't know if it's being pressed-on by air or water. If the water pressure in the tank is, say 30 psi, the air in the line will also be compressed to 30 psi.

Question: how much water should be in the pressure tank? Any?

Should there be water in my water pressure tank? - Paul 10/3/11

Reply:

Paul:

If your pressure tank is a type that uses an internal bladder, it may be nearly empty at the bottom of the pumping cycle - that is, at the point that your pump turns on.

If your water pressure tank is a bladdeless steel or fiberglass unit, then normally there will be some water in the tank bottom even at the end of the pumping cycle.

Question: Pump pressure goes up to 70 psi then immediately falls to 40 psi, many times a minute

when I flush the toilet my well pump cycles on to 70 lbs then right off and drops to 40 lbs and back on to 70 lbs then drops down to 40lbs and back on to 70 lbs it does this 21 or 22 times in a matter of just a couple of minutes then it stays at 40 or 39 lbs. I think it's doing this the whole time the toilet is filling back up? What would cause this?? - Jim Gale 10/17/11

what can be wrong with my well i put a new pressurer swithch the blader tank is good not lossing air but pump cut on and off ever two min what do i have to do to fix the problem - Anon 3/1/12

The pump is new and the pressure tank is old and the pressure switch is new. I run the water the pump clicks on and off every 10 seconds. I can see condensation line above the half way line on the tank. Whats the problem? - Rep 6/5/12

My switch cycles constantly and finally (sticks and holds contact. Is this an air pressure problem in my water tank? - Martin 7/19/12

My well is for outdoor irrigation only and has a very small (maybe 3-5 gallon?) bladder tank and pressure switch set-up. When I turn on a hose the pump clicks on and then off immediately, just a few seconds then the water pressure from the hose dwindles down and then the pump kicks back on just for a second and right back off so I get a burst of water then the dwindling again & it just keeps going like that. Isn't the point of the pressure switch & bladder tank to make the pump stay on while water is running, keeping the pressure constant? What adjustment to the pressure switch should I make....increase or decrease the cut-on or cut-off point? - Jen 7/20/12

Reply:

Everyone above and Martin, I'm not 100% sure of course, but I don't think it's an air problem.

Short cycling of a water pump describes the pump turning on and off too often when water is running, but not a sticky or misbehaving pressure switch.

Burned switch contacts, a failing switch, a loose connection in the wiring, or a dirt-clogged sensor port on the pressure control switch base or in the tube that conducts water pressure to the switch are more likely at fault.

Martin when you swapped in the new switch, if you left a clogged tube on which the switch mounts or that feeds water pressure to the switch, even the sensor port on the new one could be blocked as well.

I'd also check voltage levels.

And that the pressure tank is not waterlogged.

Jen when the pump turns on and then immediately off it's as if there is no air in the pressure tank - so as water is not very compressible, the system reaches cutoff pressure immediately. If the irrigation system draws water fast enough, or if the pressure tank has an air charge, the symptom you describe should not occur.

Take a look at WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING. I think your water tank may be waterlogged.

Question: lost water pressure, came back on its own, plumber replaced presure switch.

I had a Plummer come to my house on the week-end since I had lost pressure for my water. When the plumber arrived the pressure was restored but since the system was 21 years old, I decided to have him replace the switch. If I remember I had a 20-40 pressure switch that was adjusted to 40-55 so that when taking a shower we would not notice the low pressure. When the plumber installed the new pressure switch 30-50 I asked him to adjust the pressure and that is what he did. He adjusted the pressure with the bigger nut as explained in the WEB site, so now the cut-in pressure is about 32 and the cut out is about 58-60. The problem is that when someone is taking a shower the cut-in rating is to low so the pressure is down. What steps can be done to increase the cut-in pressure but keeping to cut-out pressure to about 60…. So I could have something like 42-60 or so if possible. Thank you - Andre 10/25/11

Reply:

Andre:

Please take a look at the pressure switch adjustment information in the article above. You'll see there are two adjusting nuts in the control. Basically the larger nut shifts the whole operating pressure range (cut in and cut out) up or down while the smaller nut adjusts the differential between the cut in and cut out. You can adjust the smaller nut to narrow the differential if you like - just don't make the cut-in too close to the cut-out or your pump may turn on and off too often and overheat.

Question: Pump Turns Off Randomly; pressure switch clicks clicks then finally turns on

We have a relatively new well at our hunting camp/farm, about the same time the pressure switch went bad and needed replaced, ever since it was replaced (almost 2 years now) the water will go off for no apparent reason, then someone has to go to the basement and flip the switch off (water can be heard flowing at this point) then flip it back on and the pump begins to run again. It is fine for several hours and again the same thing happens. Is the low pressure cut-on set too low? - Anon 12/6/11

It is a new switch doing this and the old switch had been suffering from the same problem. "click,click,click,click, then it finally sticks or maintains contact and the pump fills up the tank and stops. My tank is in my house (pier and beam) and about 40-50' from the well so meaning my water tank is probably 3' above the level of my well if that has anything that could be a problem. I think the switch is sensing pressure surges and shutting on and off sporadically. I know this will eventually wear on the contacts much less possibly do damage to the submersible motor. Anon 7/20/12

Reply:

Check for a clogged pressure sensor or tube feeding pressure to the switch

Question: new well and pressure switch 2 years ago, now water turns off for no reason;

We have a relatively new well at our hunting camp/farm, about the same time the pressure switch went bad and needed replaced, ever since it was replaced (almost 2 years now) the water will go off for no apparent reason, then someone has to go to the basement and flip the switch off (water can be heard flowing at this point) then flip it back on and the pump begins to run again. It is fine for several hours and again the same thing happens. Is the low pressure cut-on set too low? - Gene Doverspike 12/6/11

Reply:

Check for a debris clogged pressure sensor; check for a thermal overload problem with the pump motor.

Question: new pump and tank, but no water is being delivered and the gauge says pressure is not changing.

I have just fitted a new borehole pum and a new pressure vessel. The pump runs then cuts off at 3 bar on the pressure guage. There dosn't appear to be any water in the bladder at all.

The pressure vessel is at just over 2 bar. When I released pressure form the vessel the pressure at the switch dropped as well. Water does flow but there is no water in the tank. How do I set the system so the tank fills. - Nick 3/14/12

Reply:

Check for a debris-clogged stuck pressure gauge. The same problem may be plaguing the pressure control switch.

Question: I'd like to get the cut-on at 60 and cut-off at 70.

I just rebuilt a Sta-Rite water pump (JBMG-41S)(2hp). It had never been serviced and had alot of iron build-up. The shaft had seized. After cleaning it out and putting new seals, it was still able to run ok so I reinstalled it. Then it seemed there was a problem with the pressure switch. I cleaned out the pipes connecting to it and cleaned the switch itself but I wasn't able to get to a setting that wasn't cycling too quickly. I then looked at the air pressure in the pressure tank.

This system is installed in an old 6 floor apartment building. The city supply is about 45psi I wanted to get a cut-on pressure of about 55psi and a cut-off at about 75. The pressure tank (Challenger pc266r - 85 gallon) turned out to be over-charged. I'm not sure what the pressure was at but it was over 60psi. I let out the air until it got to around 51. Now, cut-on pressure was around 55 and the pump was staying on for around 10 minutes before it reached 70psi but even with the differential nut unscrewed all the way I couldn't get the pump to turn off at 75psi. I finally unscrewed the main nut and the pump went off but now the cut-on pressure was slightly lower.

I'd like to get the cut-on at 60 and cut-off at 70.

Help appreciated. - Ben 4/9/12

Reply:

Ben, please take another look at the details in the article above about adjusting the pump pressure control switch. You'll see that the two adjustments (on switches that have two) do not operate independently, so changing one can require fine tuning the other. The larger nut shifts the whole cut-in/cut-out pressure range up or down, while the smaller nut changes the width of that range - the differential between cut in and cut out.

Question:

I do see the cut in big spring and nut, but i couldnt find the differential cut off nut, is this indicating that my pump is a very old one? - Old Pump 5/9/12

Reply:

Old Pump: sounds more as if you are describing a different type of pressure control switch that does not give all of the adjustments we describe - the switch may or may not be the same age as the pump itself.

Question: pressure seems to cut out entirely, usually right in the middle of a shower, then takes 1 to 2 mins to cut back in

My pressure seems to cut out entirely, usually right in the middle of a shower, then takes 1 to 2 mins to cut back in. I tried making the cut-in pressure higher, but it did nothing. My pressure also seems to go too high, around 70 psi. But nothing I do seems to help. Do I just need a new switch? - Jeran 5/20/12

Reply:

Jeran I'd start by checking for a pump switch that has a clogged sensor port or pipe - clogging can slow the pump switch's response to an actual pressure drop in the system.

Question: Will the pressure pump damage the washing machine, water heater etc? in a one story house?

Is it true that Preasure pumps fitted in a house with one floor only spoils the washing machine,water heater etc and presure pumps should not be used for such one floored house. - K Sriram

Reply:

K Sriram

I cannot undertand any reason why a well water pump would damage plumbing in a one story house in some way related to the house height. The pressure operating range - 20-40 psi or 30-50 psi is within the normal operating range of plumbing fixtures and appliances. In other words, No not in any way I can see. Maybe there is some condition someone knows about that we've never come across??

Question: my pump would not stop running - the tech says I need a new drilled well

My pump began running non stop and when the well person came out they said they were able to set psi to 38 and the pump would shut off correctly however most likely the jet is plugged or a hole in casing for it to change suddenly and It will eventually just quit. Does this sound correct. It is now functioning fine at 38 psi but I am concerned since winter is coming and I shoul get a well drilled now. I am not planning in investing in repair if it needs repair because it's an old 2" - Amanda 8/26/12

Reply:

Amanda I don't understand the question you are asking. A hole in a well casing may admit dirt and contaminants and might speed up clogging of the well screen on a foot valve or pump pickup; But some more accurate diagnosis is needed before drilling a new well.

Question: pump runs forever if the cut-out pressure is raised above 38

I have a Goulds 1/2 hp J5 deep well pump with a 20 gal pressure tank. I am operating with a differential of 14 psi (20/34 cut-in/out). Due to well limitations, the maximum pressure generated by the pump is 38 psi (pump runs forever if the cut-out pressure is raised above 38).

At this setting, the small nut is completely loosened.

I would like to operate at 24/34, but if I increase the cut-in pressure to 24 (large nut), then the cut-out pressure is also increased, and the pump runs forever (small nut still completely loose).

It seems that I am limited by the Goulds pressure control switch (which is attached to the pump and monitors the pressure by a plastic tube from the pump housing).

Any solution to this? It is a fairly new pump, so simply replacing the Goulds pressure conrol switch does not guarantee a solution, since the specs of the Goulds switch apparently do not allow one to operate with a cut-in/out differential of 10 psi. - Antony 9/14/12

Reply:

Anthony

You're right that the "range nut" (see article above) shifts the whole water pressure cut-in/cut-out range up or down, while the "differential nut" widens or narrows the cut-in to cut-out pressure gap. I SPECULATE that Goulds and other water pump pressure control manufacturers don't allow the range width to be less than 10 psi because you'd find that when running water in the building the pump would be cycling on and off too rapidly.

You'd be better off to set the range so that the cut-in is at 20 psi, and then you can set the cut-out up to 34 psi.

Question: is the pressure switch setting causing short cycling of the pump?

my airbladder tank pressure came pre set at 38psi but the pressure switch is 20/40 is this causing the switch to cycle on off on off? second question, there does not seem to be water in the tank,why? i get water from the spigot with pressure and the guage jumps right from 20 to 40 and back again. why? - Patty 9/17/12

Reply: pressure tank [starting pressure at installation] should be 2 psi below the cut in pressure of the pump

Patty,
The pressure in the pressure tank should always be 2 psi below the cut in pressure of the pump. First, check the gauge when the pump first kicks in before shutting down the pump. Then, turn off the pump. Shut the water supply off to the pump, drain the pressure tank by opening the faucet furthest from the pressure tank, then release all the air from the pressure tank. Refill the tank with air to 18 psi if the pump is actually cutting in at 20 psi. When you turn the pump back on it will fill the pressure tank and will stop cycling unless you have a leak somewhere or dirty filters. - reply from WaterWorks 9/21/2012

Question: we don't have the money to hire someone - how do we do pump switch adjustment ourselves

thank for the information. we dont have the money to hire some one to do this it is the well itself so how do i do it ourselves - Mike 7/29/12

Reply:

Mike:

Try reviewing the article above where the details of the water pump pressure control switch adjustment are described; if your switch does not match the one described then you just need to know the switch brand and model in order to go to the manufacturer to obtain the exact adjustment instructions.

Watch out: messing with a pump pressure control switch exposes live electrical connections - you can be killed if you touch live wires. Another catastrophe to avoid is setting the pressure too high, causing leaks or worse, a burst water tank that could injure anyone nearby.

Question: Xtrol pressure tank and everything set to 28 psi, multiple pressure tanks, pump won't shut off

I have 3/4 HP pump with its own pressure switch. The output of the pump will feed the Xtrol 120gal bladder tank (straight tee without gauge and valve). The second and last bladder 40gal tank has a standard tee with pressure switch (30-50psi), valve, gauge and pressure relief. Both are pre-set at 28 psi. These two tanks have different draw capacities. Primed the pump properly; turned on the pump and its gauge read 40-42 psi.

The reading at the second tank is 30 psi. pump never stopped until automatic shut-off kicked in due to heat (ran straight more than 5 mins.) When it stopped, its gauge read 40 psi, the gauge on the last tank read 30 psi. I have water at the toilet. It filled the toilet tanks about 5-6 flushes and then the pressure at the second tank read 20 psi and then the pump kicks in.

I was able to tilt both tanks easily. Note that the pressure switch at the 2nd tank is not connected to the pump but to the power supply only. Do I need a pressure switch at the tank at all since there's one at the pump or vice-versa?

No leaks as far as I know between the well exit pipes to the 2nd tank.

Any help is very much appreciated. - Antoine 10/1/2012

Reply:

Antoine, without a sketch I don't have a clear understanding of your installation. It sounds as if you may be installing pressure tanks in series, or in parallel, maybe feeding different building areas - I just don't know.

But in general, if a pressure control switch is set higher than a pump can achieve, the pump will never shut off. We offer diagnostics for this problem at WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING.

Also take a close look at exactly where your pressure control switch is located - it needs to be near the tank whose pressure it is to sense.

Finally, check that the pressure control switch sensor port has not become debris clogged - that will prevent proper pressure sensing. The fix is to replace the switch.

Question: low water pressure after replacing a pressure control switch

Replaced the pressure control switch on a 30/50 unit as well as pressure gauge. Water pressure has been very low since. Turns on at 30 and shuts off at 50 so its working. Had no water pressure problem before replacing. Replaced once we found a leak that tied back to the pressure switch. Do I need to adjust pressure on/off or is it the pump? - Eric Det 10/9/12

Reply:

Eric, if the pump turns on at 30 and off at 50 psi, then your pump, control, and water pressure are normal. I suspect that we're mixing up water pressure - something you measure with a guage when no water is running - and water flow rate - how fast and hard does water come out of the tap.

Bad water flow rate (that people may indeed loosely call call "water pressure") can be caused by lots of different problems ranging from a poor well flow rate or clogged building piping to simply clogged strainers and shower heads.

Take a look at WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS for WELLS

Question: installed new pressure tank, no water seems to enter it

I installed a new 35 gallon bladder tank and seems I have no water going into the tank, 40/60 switch, tank pressure is set at 38 psi. water pressure drops and a blast of cool water comes ouy before pump kicks on ? - James Miller 11/9/12

Reply:

I'm baffled by this interesting question. Blast of cool water comes out of where? It sounds as if you have a piping or installation problem or a tank with a bladder that is stuck in the collapsed position.

Question: after replacing pump and pressure tank the pump switch keeps clicking

relay switch on water pressure device clicking when water is being used why and what is the fix please. - Anon 9/30/12

i replace my pump and pressure tank. but when i turn on my water. i here the pressure switch go click click click non stop when i turn on water - Jerry 11/16/12

Reply:

Jerry,

Watch out: If the clicking pressure switch is switching the pump on and off very rapidly, say every second, TURN THE PUMP CIRCUIT OFF immediately to avoid damaging the equipment. Then check for a clogged water filter, a water valve that should be open is closed, or a waterlogged preside tank

Anon:

It is normal for the relay switch to "click" on and off when you are running water continuously. It's a sound that folks don't notice if the swithc is right next to a (noisy) well pump, but when the well pump is submersible (located in the well) the pressure control switch click may be about all you hear. If the clicking is rapid - see my warning just above. If the click occurs say once every 30 seconds, that's normal. It's the pump switching on and off as pressure falls and rises.

Question: humming water pressure pump control switch

My water Pump Pressure Switch seems to be emitting a low hum all of the time It sounds sort of like you hear around electrical transformers. This is a new thing for the unit. My electric bill has also been high and my water pressure is intermittently low. I can make the hum stop by pressing on the plate that's connected to the springs. It sparks when I do this. Yikes! I suspect that the switch is stuck in the on position. What do you all think? Thanks! - James 11/27/12

Reply:

James, the pressure control switch might click on and off, but humming?

First - make sure that the sound is coming from the switch itself and not from nearby water piping or from a nearby pump. Well pumps are not silent, and pump noise can be transmitted via water piping.

Second - if you are convinced it's the switch, if tightening the electrical connections at the switch doesn't fix it (do this with power OFF) I would replace it promptly. The pump relay is an electromagnetic switch. If it is humming and vibrating it is probably failing and you're about to have

• a short circuit, maybe a switch burn-up or worse
• no water

Watch out: I wouldn't keep pressing on the relay. There's live 120V or 240V in that switch - touching exposed wires or connectors is asking for a potentially fatal shock. Keep me posted, what we learn will help other readers.

Question: pump hums, doesn't run unless I give it a spin - pump also won't stop

May 10, 2014) H20 said:

my Pump humms and i have to manually spin the spindle to get it running ,it only does it now and again, my pump cuts on and off alright but would improper adjustment on the square D 20-40 make it do this?

Reply:

H2

If your pump motor uses a start capacitor, that's what needs replacing to get the pump going, though it may be that even that won't salvage a motor with an open start winding.

(May 19, 2014) H20 said:

i think i finally got this right .. is it okay if my 20-40 square D made in china (lol) pressure Switch cut's on at 32 psi and off at 51 psi ? is this acceptable?

Reply:

(May 19, 2014) (mod) said:

H2 those are typical on / off figures. Keep in mind that neither the pressure gauge you're reading nor the pressure switch is designed to be lab-grade precise. If you set the cut-in to 30 and see 32 psi, for example, I'd leave it alone. \

(May 19, 2014) H20 said:

Dan i got the PSI to cut on at 30psi exactly and cuts off at 50psi precise my problem now is the Starite1/2 hp water pump keeps running and isn't shutting off when someone takes a shower is this normal? i thought the Pump is suppose to rest now and again :

Reply:

H2

IF the water flow rate in the home exceeds the pump capacity rate (or perhaps the well flow rate) then the pump will run continuously when water is in use for a longer period.

You can improve but not eliminate this condition by installing a larger capacity water pressure/storage tank if necessary.

But when the pump *keeps running* "forever" when water is shut off that tells me that

- the pressure cut-off point is set higher than the pump is capable of reaching
OR
- the water flow rate of the well is very slow and the pump isn't finding enough water
OR
- there could be a leak in well piping.

Question: what happens if water tank pre-charge setting is too low?

(July 11, 2014) Tina said:

I've read all the posts here, understand that the recommended setting for air pressure in the pressure tank is 2 psi below the cut-in setting on the pressure switch. What if our tank setting is lower than the recommended 2 psi below? Ours is currently 34 psi; cut-in set at 40.

We've started having problems with the automatic safety shutoff on the pressure switch turning off the pump until it's re-primed by hand with the lever on the switch. Seems to be related to activation of the backwash filter system, which demands 8 gal/min in the first cycle. Have tested for water system leaks & tank waterlogging, which seem fine.

The suggestion from the guy who put in the filter system was to change to a pressure switch without the automatic shutoff.
I'd like to understand the relationship between the tank pressure & the pressure switch cut-in. Also, any suggestions on the pump shut-off problem (happens intermittently, not every time) would be appreciated.

Reply:

Tina,

Setting the pre-charge pressure in the water tank to more than 2 psi below the cut-in pressure won't hurt anything but you are probably reducing the draw-down water volume, making the pump run more often than needed.

When a pressure switch is not reliably turning the pump on and off when it should I figure it may be debris-clogged and I swap in a new one.

The automatic shutoff is a nice safety feature that can help avoid damaging the pump or burning up the switch. Swapping to a switch that doesn't have the feature unfortunately is just avoiding finding and fixing the trouble.

The tank pressure is the same as the water pressure in the plumbing system. A pressure control switch is connected to the water piping, usually near the pressure tank, via a small tube or mounting tube for the switch itself. Water pressure in that tube presses a diaphraghm inside the pressure switch that operates its on-off relays.

(July 11, 2014) Tina said:

Thanks for your response. I forgot to mention that we've already replaced the pressure switch, no debris in the tube either.

I agree that the automatic shutoff is a valuable feature, & it makes me crazy that the new switch didn't fix our problem.
I didn't understand why our 34 psi tank setting would reduce the draw-down water volume; it seems like less pressure would allow a larger volume of water in the tank.
If I interpret your explanation of the pressure control switch correctly, then the cut-in command (to turn on) is sent by that switch to the pump, independent of the air pressure charge set for the tank. Is that true?
Thanks for your help.

Reply:

Tina I need to think a bit.

Keep in mind that the switch just sees pressure - it doesn't know if it's air pressure or water pressure pressing on its membrane.

The air acts as a spring to push water out of the tank until the pressure drops to the cut in point. Without the air, water not being Rey compressible the pump will short cycle on and off rapidly ipuntil it retires with a pumpache

You may be right.
Thinking.
I figure optimum is 2 psi below the cut in pressure. That's close to the cut in pressure but below it so we won't send air out through the system and ...
A too high Pre charge (say 44 just to avoid a chattering control) which would push out all of the water but still remain above the switch cut in pressure, thus keeping the pump from ever coming on.

I'm claiming that the optimum charge thus gives the greatest drawdown volume.

Btw, if the cutout is too close to the pump's maximum capability you may see cut out trouble and thus see the switch shut down.

If we drop the Pre charge below that the "air spring" in the tank is weakened.
The pump is still going to cut in at 40 as you set it. But with a weaker air charge les water was pushed out (in gallons per minute) during the draw down cycle.

Question: sometimes pump just shuts off

(July 24, 2014) Raymond said:

I have a well with a water tank. My problem is that the ware system cut off frquently. I will check and restart the system water presure shows good reading, then about it cutsoff after serveral small water uses. I thought the well was low on water, Idon't usefor0towodays and get the same results. Im thinking it might be the regulator. Pleaseletme knowyour thoughts.

Reply:

If your PRESURE regulator includes a pump protection feature it could be shutting Dan the pump for a legitimate reason such as a problem in the well, or it could be the switch. I'd try swapping in a new switch as that's quick, I expensive, and diagnostic. Keep us posted.

...

Continue reading at PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH STANDARD (PSI) SETTINGS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

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PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH STANDARD (PSI) SETTING FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

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