How to diagnose and fix a water pressure tank whose internal bladder has collapsed and stuck to itself so that no water can enter the pressure tank.
Page top photo: a cut away version of a water pressure tank shows that when the tank is totally empty its internal bladder, normally used to contain the water supply, will collapse down to nearly zero internal volume. Sometimes the bladder sticks to itself, preventing water from entering the tank when the pump turns on.
This article series describes the diagnosis and repair of internal bladder type water pressure tanks: how they work, what goes wrong, how to fix it.
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When the water tank seems to be empty (light, no condensation or "sweat" on the tank) and the water pump short cycles, a possible cause is that the internal bladder in the pressure tank has stuck to itself, blocking water from entering the tank.
This problem can occur with brand new water pressure tanks or with older ones that may have faced a combination of being completely emptied and being left empty for a brief period of time or longer.
Photo: a typical water pressure tank that uses an internal bladder.
[Click to enlarge any image]
Watch out: before focusing on this less-common stuck tank bladder problem, be sure that
I just replaced a bad water tank with a new pre-pressure tank. The pressure setting is at 29 psi according to the manufacturer.
However, after hooking everything back up, it appears no water is going into the tank. I attempted to adjust the pressure switch but nothing appears to work. Could I be dealing with a back pressure switch? - Ron
[Click to enlarge any image]
Thanks for the information on the new pressure tank.
If the internal bladder has failed and collapse onto itself, can I get everything working by removing all the air pressure first and then pumping water into the tank?
There is water coming out of the water valve prior to the tank when the pump is running. However, after closing it, it appears no water is going into the tank. - Ron
(Oct 20, 2014) Joe said:
I have a internal bladder water tank that is empty, I have good water pressure until more than 1 water outlet is being used.
I have a well water. Wondering if water line to tank could be clogged. I've checked bladder air pressure in tank and that's good.
Pressure gauge reads 40psi all the time
Should a remove water tank and try to remove debris from inlet. It's 16 years old.
I can't think of any other reason it wouldn't fill up. Help please?
I just installed anew bladder tank, and it is not filling with water, is this normal? - Wess Wellmaker
Ron:
I'd check the pressure at your new pressure tank at the pump cut-in and cut-out points. If the pressure never changes then I'd agree that something's wrong with the hookup and no water is being pushed into the tank.
If an internal bladder has failed it can collapse onto itself, stick to itself, and can prevent water from getting into the tank. But first make sure there is no closed valve that ought to be open;
A bad pressure switch would prevent water from entering the water tank if the switch is simply not turning on the pump when it should.
For details of the arrangement of the parts inside of a water tank that uses an internal bladder,
see WATER TANK BLADDER CONSTRUCTION
Next: when an internal bladder has collapsed and stuck to itself I think the "fix" may be to replace the bladder or the entire tank and bladder assembly. No water enters the pressure tank when the bladder is stuck like that.
See WATER TANK BLADDER REPLACEMENT
Since your tank is new, replacing the tank or bladder does not sound like the place to start. But even a new water pressure tank that uses an internal bladder could be having a problem filling the bladder the first time.
According to Jeremy Rasmussen, an experienced well driller and installer, he sometimes can "un-stick" a jammed or stuck water tank internal bladder by temporarily forcing the well pump to pressurize the water tank to a pressure above the usual pump pressure control switch cut-off setting. Jeremy holds the pump relay switch closed to force the pump to keep running to increase the pressure against the stuck bladder.
See WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH
Watch out: Especially if there is no pressure relief valve on the water tank there is a risk of bursting the water tank. Over pressurizing a water tank can cause it to explode, causing injury or even, as happened in New Paltz, NY, death.
Watch the pressure gauge, and keep the tank pressure well below the recommended manufacturer's maximum pressure rating for the tank. If you keep the pressure below 70 psi and the tank is not already weakened by rust or damage, you should be OK.
Watch out: there are potentially fatal electric shock hazards if you touch live electrical wiring, especially in wet areas or where you may also be touching building plumbing.
Finally, check to be sure that any valves between the water pump and the pressure tank are "open" to allow water into the tank.
- a closed or broken water control valve between pump outlet and water tank inlet
- a stuck water tank bladder (try briefly holding the pressure switch closed to pump up to 1o-15 psi over the usual cutoff pressure to see if you can un-stick the bladder in the tank
Watch out: do not over pressurize a water pressure tank - it can burst and kill someone
...
Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
Kimberly said:
water pressure gauge is short cycling 40-70 non-stop (takes less than 10 seconds each time).
But I still have water pressure in the house, although my water is sometimes coming through black. Air hisses out when valve is depressed. Tank is light (not full of water). Not sure what to do?
Kimberly
If no water is entering the pressure tank it may be that it needs to be replaced; a tank bladder that's stuck to itself can cause the trouble you describe.
I gently rocked the tank and it does not seem there is any water in it. My pump will pump water but the water pressure will only go a little over 30 so the pump will not shut off. For now I shut it off manually and turn it on and allow it to run until we have finished taking a shower or some other task. If the bladder has failed shouldn't the water pressure still build up and then shut the pump off? - Dale
Dale:
If the internal bladder in a water pressure tank has failed, the symptoms can vary a bit. Sometimes a collapsed bladder will prevent water from entering the tank, or water can enter up to the pump cut-off pressure but water won't flow back out of the tank. If that's happening the pump will turn on and off quickly as if there were a waterlogged water tank.
When the pump won't shut off the well could be running dry or the pump control could be improperly set.
Don't entirely trust the pressure gauge on the water Tank to read the actual system pressure. Sometimes the opening into the gauge that permits water pressure to drive the gauge can become clogged itself, giving false readings.
On 2018-12-31 by (mod) - water is not entering your water pressure tank.
I agree it sounds like water is not entering your water pressure tank. Perhaps a bladder has become stuck to itself.
On 2018-12-31 by Joe
My air tank seems to have very little water in it and my pump is set at 40-60. The pump comes on almost instantly when a faucet is opened or a toilet is flushed. I had the pressure at 10-30 but did not have good water pressure but the water could run for a couple minutes before the pump would come on.
I just replaced the pump so I don’t want the pump wearing out prematurely. Why can’t ihave good strong pressure without the pump short cycling?
On 2017-12-16 by (mod) - signs of a waterlogged pressure tank - bladder type
Noel,
An internal-bladder-type water pressure tank that's waterlogged is one whose bladder is punctured or torn and needs replacement - or the tank needs replacement.
Both a waterlogged pressure tank AND a leak in piping will cause a water pump to cycle on with increasing frequency.
If you have no water leak now and the pump short cycles the tank may be waterlogged.
Take a look at the condensation line on the tank - if it's above the middle or upper 2/3 of tank height the tank has lost its air charge and is waterlogged.
Press the pin in the schrader valve (air valve) near the tank top. If water squirts out the tank is actually full of water.
On 2017-12-15 by Noel
This tank does have a bladder. It was determined it was waterlogged before we discovered the leak in the pipe under the trailer, which we found right after the test and he immediately repaired it. I'm trying to find out if there could have been a mistake in the diagnosis, because of the leak, that was causing the pump to recycle,
even when I hadn't turned any water on. Is there any test I can do myself to verify if the tank is truly waterlogged - if the bladder is shot?
Sorry to be so tight about the money end, but I have to be, otherwise I would consult another well man for a second opinion, but that is very expensive!
He added air back in June and it has been working ever since. When I use kitchen sink water the pump doesn't come on, but flushing the toilet the pump comes on for maybe 30 seconds? Sorry to be such a pain!
On 2017-12-15 by (mod) -
Noel:
All of this discussion pertains only to water pressure tanks that do NOT use an internal bladder.
If the tank was waterlogged adding an air charge will stop the short cycling problem as you expected.
Just how long that air charge will last depends on how much water you use - how much water is run through the tank - and thus at what rate the tank's air charge is absorbed into the water passing through.
Once your tank starts short cycling again it's air charge has been exhausted.
There are air volume control (AVC) devices designed to automagically keep the necessary air charge in the tank. Installing an AVC means you don't have to keep adding air manually.
In the article end - see our
ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS
where
you'll find articles on AIR VOLUME CONTROL DEVICES
On 2017-12-15 by Noel
Thank you for your reply -
The well man put the air into the tank 6 months ago after the pump was coming on without even using any water - at which time we found that a pipe under the large permanent trailer was leaking badly.
We repaired the leak. It was then that he added the air to the pressure tank and said it might last for awhile, but if the tank is truly waterlogged, how could it still be working and maintaining pressure on the gauge six months later?
I can turn the water on pretty hard in the kitchen sink - about 2-3 gallons later the pump will come on just long enough to replace the water used. If I flush the older style tank toilet, the pump will usually come on right away.
I'm a senior on very limited income, so is there any kind of test I can do myself to verify that the tank is truly waterlogged?
The pressure on the gauge right now is 55psi, and it is a Conair - hard to read model #CA 320F.? Thanks again.
On 2017-12-14 by (mod) - Can a pressure tank still function by adding air to it after the bladder has burst?
Noel,
Well it *might* function for a time but I think that's a pretty unreliable situation.
The air-space in a bladder-type pressure tank is not designed to contain water and is likely to rust quickly leading to a burst tank. And the broken bladder often will stick at the tank inlet as well.
I suppose I'd try injecting air as a very temporary emergency measure if I absolutely had to get through a holiday weekend, but the right repair is to replace the entire tank or if it's one that permits bladder replacement, to do that.
Sorry
On 2017-12-14 by Noel
Can a pressure tank still function by adding air to it after the bladder has burst? My well man says it is water logged, but it seems to be working normally and has done so for 6 months.
The pressure goes down when I use the water, but comes right back up when I turn it off.
How do I test it? I'm being leery only because I have been badly ripped off twice by plumbers and I can't afford to replace a tank unless it is truly necessary. Thank you for your help.
On 2017-01-27 by (mod) - tank is not taking water (bladder stuck to itself?) or is 100% waterlogged.
So I'm guessing the tank is not taking water (bladder stuck to itself?) or is 100% waterlogged.
On 2017-01-27 by Bill R.
My air pressure gauge doesn't show any pressure, even though there is air in the tank. Also there doesn't seem to be any water getting into the tank. What's going on? The air pressure gauge is fairly new. Thank you.
(Mar 22, 2016) Bernie said:
I recently replaced my bladder tank. Now the pump cycles rapidly off and on. My switch is set at 30CI/50CO. When I dampen the gauge action with a ball valve, the pump operates until the cut-out is reached. Once the pump shuts off the gauge reading fluctuates until it settles out at approx. 37psig. I have a 7 gal draw down but the tank is actually doing about 2 gal before the pump turns back on. What could be going on with the system?
Rapid pump cycling usually means a water-logged pressure tank or a new tank with a bladder stuck to itself or a similar condition that's not letting water into the tank.
See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING - home
(Mar 25, 2016) Bernie said:
That's what I was leaning toward. I just didn't understand the gauge action fluctuating between 35 and 45 psig eventually settling out at 37 when the pump shuts off.
(Mar 27, 2015) Bigjon said:
Thanks so much my problem was this 2. Water tank bladder collapse. I first tried letting air out of the tank in hopes that the higher pressure from the water side would break lose the stuck bladder and after drawing the tanks pressure down to about 20 psi it broke lose
and bladder was not damaged i let it fill for just a few pounds and then pumped the tank back up with air. THANKS I was totally lost with this problem. The reason the bladder was stuck is it was replaced and then sat with the pre charge of 40 psi for over a year unused.
Jan 28, 2014) Ed said:
Pump Kicks on pressure builds up on 20 to 40 switch water does not go in bladder tank till about 32 psi and pump will not kick it cycles do i have a bad bladder tank
Ed:
Chances are it's either a collapsed or stuck bladder - not letting water into the tank, or a clog (less likely) in the bottom tank tee, or the bladder has burst and is waterlogged (the tank will be heavy).
(Feb 7, 2014) chris hampton said:
my nearly new bladder pressure tank has no water in it.what could be wrong? also when continously running pump is turned off,water runs from house piping back into well.
Chris,
No water entering an internal bladder type pressure tank, assuming the pump and tank are working, usually means that the bladder has collapsed and stuck to itself, blocking the water input
But when the pump runs continuously and when water runs back into the well when the pump is turned off
that sounds like a bad foot valve or bad check valve combined with loss of prime in the pump. If your pump is an above ground pump that's more likely the problem.
(May 11, 2012) Gary said:
My bladder type water pressure tank reads 48 psi @ the guage, but I can wiggle the tank as if its empty. Water pressure throughout the house is ok, but could be better. My plumber thinks that low water pressure is the cause of recurring clogs in the outgoing septic line to the septic tank.
Had the tank emptied Jan 2012, not a month later had a large clog in the outgoing line. Plumber rootered clog out. Now, the line is clogged again! What next??
Reply:
Gary: your pressure gauge could be stuck and not reading properly.
OR water is not entering the pressure tank - the bladder could be stuck to itself.
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