Water pressure tank or water storage tank diagnostic FAQS.

These questions & answers help determine the cause & suggest the cure for water pressure or flow problems traced to the water pressure tank.

This article series describes how and why to diagnose problems right at the water tank in order to help distinguish among intermittent water pressure loss, total water pressure loss, and poor water pressure or flow in a building.

Water Tank Diagnostic Questions & Answers

These questions & answers about diagnosing problems with watetr pressure tanks were posted originally at WATER TANK DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR.

On 2017-10-18 by (mod) - sand in the pressure tank?

Yes probably, Fred, assuming the filter is downstream from the pressure tank. If the tank continues to function normally I'd worry more about why the well is sending up sand - possibly low water in the well, a damaged casing, or pump / foot valve set too low.

On 2017-10-18 by Fred

Found some sand in my filter , hardly any pressure , cleaned it out , back to normal , is there sand inside the bladder of tank ??

On 2017-10-14 by Aj

How to increase pressure of water tank on the roof

On 2017-10-13 by (mod) - Should there be air in the water tank?

Yes about 1/4 to 1/3 of tank volume at pump shutoff

On 2017-10-13 by Albert

Should there be air in the water tank. Pressure tank ?

Reply: water pressure fails after 2 minutes, then recovers

Mod said:

Tara, thanks for the added details about your water problem. When water pressure fails but then returns on its own after the well has rested, I think the well is low on or running out of water - in other words its flow rate is insufficient, and you're drawing water out faster than the well can deliver it.

More diagnostics of this problem are at WATER PRESSURE INTERMITTENT LOSS

On 2017-08-15 by Tara

Now after I've written those two questions to you, we are running out of water if it's left on for more then 2 mins, the pump rapid cycles then normal then rapid and we lose water.

Let it rest for 3 mins and the water pressure comes back..... what is going on?

On 2017-08-15 by Anonymous

Yes I looked thru all diagnostics and it all led to a water logged tank.... the tank is brand new bought yesterday.

All the valves are open and don't think clogged as they are brand new as well yesterday. We do not have a water filter on it, would love to put one in soon! The switch has no debris and the piping that connects the pump and switch is clear, we already checked that.

Only other weird thing now, is after the water is on for awhile, after it does its rapid cycle and normal cycle back to rapid cycle, the water pressure gage goes all the way to zero now and have no water. No one can figure this problem out!

On 2017-08-15 by (mod) - pump cycles on and off too often

Tara

Were you able to find our diagnostic procedure for this problem at WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES

One way to find articles like that is to just use the InspectApedia searchbox at page top menu or just above this Comments section, to search for "short cycling".

Often very rapid short cycling tells me there is an obstruction like a blocked or closed valve or a clogged water filter. But the fact that your pump does that rapid cycling for a while then stops and acts normal for a time is indeed perplexing.

Check the output side of the pump and tank: is there a water filter that could be clogged?

Also check that the pressure control switch, though new, isn't debris clogged. If there was rust and crud or solder or solder paste pushed into the piping system it can clog either the small diameter pipe or tub that conducts water pressure to the bottom of the switch or it can clog the switch sensor port itself.

I'd also check that the switch points were not burned, and that there are no loose wires.

On 2017-08-15 Tara

We had short cycling problems with our pump, it was short cycling the entire time water was used.... we replaced the pressure switch on the pump and we also changed the bladder tank, and also the foot valve in the well itself..... thinking this would help fix the problem.

Now the issue is, when we turn the water on, it rapidly short cycles. The water pressure on the tank will be on 41 and the minute water is turned on, it goes to 25 and jumps to 40, basically jumping from 40 to 25 and back within a second, and after doing this for a min or so, it acts normal again, not cycling so fast, them goes back to rapid cycles. The pressure switch is set at 30/50, so this is all confusing.

On 2017-08-01 by (mod) - suspect a piping leak

Maria,

The leak may be at a fitting - repairable - or through steel of the tank shell if it already has an internal bladder failure - not repairable - I can't determine from your text. You can send photos for comment if you like, using the page top or bottom CONTACT link.

On 2017-08-01 by (mod) - cleaning the tank?

Re-posting without disallowed links

نظافة الخزانات مهمة جدا لأنها هى التى تحوى المياه التى نستخدمها لذلك نحن في ... نقدم افضل خدمات تنظيف الخزانات وايضا نقدم خدمات التعقيم ولدينا في ... شركه تنظيف خزانات بجده كافة الطرق الحديثة والمعدات المستخدمة في تنظيف الخزانات ويوجد لدينا في ... افضل عمالة تنظيف الخزانات نهتم بصحتكم ونقدم افضل خدمات تنظيف الخزانات

Tank cleaning is very important because it is the water that we use so we at ... we offer the best cleaning services for tanks and also provide Our sterilization services in our Clean Up Tanks Company all modern methods and equipment used to clean the tanks and we have a Cleaning the tanks of its doors The best cleaning of the reservoirs We care about your health and provide the best cleaning services reservoirs

On 2017-07-28 by Anonymous

Oops...i felt loose rust under base.
Cracked phone screeen..hence typos

On 2017-07-28 by Maria

My welxtrol water tank seems to be leaking. And i fwlt loose ruat uder neat ita base. Its only 5 years omd. Is it possible that is rusting away? It gets yearly mai tainance

On 2017-07-14 by Monica Graves

Water in our 3000 gallon holding tank of water from our well is rapidly going down and we cannot find any leaks or know why this is happening. Well goes on but very quickly to replenish but we are losing water and not being replenished. Help

On 2017-07-13 by (mod) - surging water pressure

Herb,

a search in the InspectApedia search box above finds this help for us

WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES at https://inspectapedia.com/water/Pump_Short_Cycle_Causes.php

because usually surging water pressure means that the water pump is cycling on and off very rapidly.

On 2017-07-13 by (mod) - avoiding scalding hot water burns

Mark

What you describe is common in residential properties: as we open a second faucet we change the flow rate at the faucet that was already open, since the system has but one water or hot water source and but one pressure source.

However you can install a point-of-use water temperature regulator that will eliminate the temperature change problem. See

POINT of USE BUILT-IN FIXTURE ANTI-SCALD VALVES https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Anti_Scald_Mixing_Valve_POU.php

as an example of a solution.

On 2017-07-13 by Herb

Water is surging

On 2017-07-13 by Mark Bingham

When showering, if someone runs water elsewhere in the house, the water temperature varies depending on which faucet has been turned on. If hot is turned, you get all cold in the shower. If cold is turned on, you get all hot in the shower. What would cause this?

Question: I suspect that there is a setting mismatch between the pressure switch and the pressure in the tank

(June 4, 2011) jim said:

This series of aritcles talks about everythinh except what I need to know. I changed the switch, but now I suspect that there is a setting mismatch between the pressure switch and the pressure in the tank

. I need to know how to check the system to make sure the the pressure in the tank is correct for a new pressure switch pressure setting?

Reply:

Jim:

The pressure gauge on your well pump and tank system is giving you the water pressure and also the air pressure in your water tank. When the pump stops running, the pressure on the gauge is the static water pressure in the system; at that point, the air pressure in the water tank will be at exactly the same psi.

If you want to make an INDEPENDENT check on water pressure (and thus in-tank air pressure) in your system in case your installed water pressure gauge might be broken or inaccurate, it's easy to do. You can buy or make a water pressure gauge that connects to a hose faucet hookup such as is found at the water tank drain or at a nearby laundry sink faucet or outdoor hose bib.

See WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR

If you need to adjust the air pressure in your water tank, see WATER TANK AIR PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT 

Question: my well pump short cycles

(Sept 7, 2011) Larry Hunter said:

my well pump short cycles. goes up to 58 lbs of pressure, shuts off, then drops to 38 lbs and comes back on. We were without power for 8 days due to hurricane Irene. This problem did not occur before loss of power.

Reply:

Larry my first suspicion is that you've got a leaky check valve or foot valve. It may have always been there but could have gotten worse from mud and debris stirred up in a well by floodwaters.

If the system loses pressure after the pump shuts off and you are dead sure there is NO water running in the house, I suspect water is running back down into the well (bad foot valve or check valve).

Larry it's also possible that your water pressure tank has lost its air charge; I'd check on that second; you can of course try replacing the pressure switch on the theory that it got wet or corroded during its idle time.

Question: should the pressure tank be empty?

(Dec 9, 2011) Gerry said:

I have a jet pump that has performed normally for about 5 years. Recently the breaker switch on the electrical supply panel has started to kick off when the pump is runing (toilet flush or when water softener is cycling) Loss of power occurs only intermittently.

While the pump performs normally, I have replaced the pressure control switch, cleaned the pressure switch feed line and switch diaphram, checked for silt inside the pump body and around the impeller, and replaced the electrical breaker.

There have been no changes recently to the total load on the electrical circuit.

What other difficulties would cause the electrical/pump failure?

(Sept 1, 2012) herman said:

intermitten water flow and water comes out whenthe bladder air valve is press

(Mar 8, 2014) Allen Ravenscraft said:

My system consists of a inground well pump then a pressure switch and pressure tank going into an airator tank. From there a pump in the airator tank sends the water past another pressure switch and pressure tank to a softener system and to the house.

The well pressure tank doesn't seem to store any water while the tank going to the house does. Is this normal?

My neighbor has the exact system and his well pressure tank also remains empty. Also what is the purpose of the well pressure tank because the main well pump is controlled by a water level arm in the airator tank? Thanks.

I just realized what the purpose of the well pressure tank is. It's there to operate the sprinkler system and the hose bibs that are on the well side of my system. Sorry, it was late, but I'm still at a loss as to why that pressure tank is always empty and doesn't store water like the house pressure tank does.

Reply:

pressure tanks are there to smooth the delivery of water as the pump cycles on and off; if a tank is always empty it may be an internal bladder type with a collapsed, stuck-to-itself bladder. The tank is NOT normally empty.

(Mar 12, 2014) Allen Ravenscraft said:

My system is working OK for now. I found out that the pressure switch for the well pressure tank is a 30/50 psi and the house pressure switch is 40/60 which is a normal set up for homes in my area in Florida. I’m not sure why though.

So I drained the whole system and tanks then set one at 28 and the other at 38 psi. The well tank filled with small amount of water but the house tank didn’t.

I reduced the house tank to 30 psi and then it also took in a small amount of water. I don’t think either tank has its maximum amount of water in them, but the system is operating normal now so I’m going to leave everything as it is. Thank you for your help.

Reply:

Thanks for the follow-up Allen, though it's confusing to me. I'm not familiar with water delivery systems using two different pressure switches. A pressure control switch turns a pump on and off in response to water pressure. It would be a conundrum to install multiple switches all controlling a single pump.

Perhaps your system uses a different design with multiple tanks and a booster pump and tank at the building?

Question:

(June 9, 2014) Anonymous said:

Water was coming out of boring pump. But motor was unable to pump ground water to tank. Replaced new washers. Not able to find fault. It is troubling us from very long.

(Sept 16, 2014) Dave Beynon said:

When i check the PSI valve on the top of the water tank, water shoots out of the valve. Is the tank shoot?
Thanks

Reply:

Dave, as my good friend Mark Cramer (Tampa FL) says, "It Depends ..."

If the water tank is one that uses an internal bladder, then yes the bladder has burst and needs replacement - or replace the whole tank assembly.

If the water tank is one that does NOT use an internal bladder then the tank is waterlogged.

(Sept 17, 2014) Dave Beynon said:

Thanks Dan, it has an internal bladder. Time for a new tank.

Question: filament looking something clogging screen strainers

(Oct 1, 2014) Mike said:

we have a water pressure tank, we have a submersible pump in well. We are having problems with a filament looking something clogging screen strainers on washing machines and water faucets. Where could this be coming from. We suspect it might be fiberglass residue, accordiung to local hardware guy.

Reply:

Mike

I've seen white debris clogging faucet strainers and shower heads when a plastic dip tube in the water heater was disintegrating.

See

inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Hot_Water_Tank_Debris_Flush.php

for details.

Question:

(Nov 3, 2014) Anonymous said:
We have a shallow well in the basement, a pump and a pressure tank. We are having an issue with water pressure when we have more than one water supply running. For instance...if someone is taking a shower in one bathroom, and someone else flushes a toilet in a different bathroom.....the water supply either quits completely or goes down to just drops. What could be wrong?

continuous of and on every 2 seconds

Reply:

Anon

Please see the artitcle titled

WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING - home

Question: not getting enough water from the pressure tank - small draw-down volume

(Nov 9, 2014) Ron said:
I have a 20 Trident water tank. The pressures cut in and out correctly. However, the tank dispenses less than 2 gallons of water before cutting back in. How can I correct this?

Reply:

Ron

Is the tank waterlogged?

(Nov 13, 2014) Ron Burton said:
I have drained the tank and restarted the pump. Still only get about 1.5 gallons before the pump cuts in again.

Question: whistling water tank

(Nov 24, 2014) Rusty said:
my son's water pressure tank is whistling. any ideas

Reply:

Rusty often a whistling noise at a water tank is caused by vibration in piping at the tank or at its entry point. Slightly closing a supply valve may stop it. More details are at

inspectapedia.com/noise_diagnosis/Water_Pipe_Whistle_Noise.php

Question: pressure switch drops quickly to zero

(Jan 12, 2015) Linda said:
My husband replaced the pressure tank and switch today because the tank was running continuously. The switch has a 30/50 cut in cut off.

The switch approaches the 50psi then drops to about 30psi at which time it drops quickly to zero.

We are not drawing any water in the house and he has to use the low pressure switch lever to get the reading back up to 50psi, but he doesn't feel like any water is going into the tank.

He has double checked the main water valve and the electrical connections since it was all replaced today but he has no idea what to do. Can you make any suggestions?

Reply:

Linda,

From your description I don't quite understand what's happening either.

If no water were entering the pressure tank I'd expect the pump to short-cycle on and off rather rapidly.

If the new water tank was not properly charged the pump might also short cycle: it's starting pressure when empty should be 2 psi below the pump cut-in pressure.

If the pressure control switch is what's acting erratically I'd replace both the switch and any connecting tubing as I suspect there is clogging that's keeping the switch from properly sensing water pressure.

Question: pump kicks on but pressure still drops with no water running in the house

31 Jan 2015 David said:
I have a bladder water pressure tank. It's set at 20/40 and will not hold pressure. The pump will kick on and slowly lose pressure without water running in the house. It even does this when the water ball valve to the house is off. I turned off the well pump and ran the water dry. The pressure in the water pressure tank reads 0. I tried filling it with air and it will not accept it. When I turn the well pump on, the reading in the tank is the same as the reading on the pressure gauge (somewhere between 20 and 40). What could be wrong?

Reply:

David

If the pump runs and pressure continues to drop it sounds as if there is a piping leak, a failing pump, or loss of water in the well.

Question: confusion about whether or not we are out our water - water pressure in some places, not others:

(Feb 13, 2015) sue said:
we have been burning out capacitors like crazy, now we have no water at all. just bought a 2 gallon pressure tank and a 40 gallon hot water heater. is the pressure tank to small? or do we have a short somewhere? we can't figure out what is going on. we live in a mobile home, the water only travels about 7 feet total.

(Feb 20, 2015) Dennis said:
We were -21 last nite,we have running water but none to the toilet,tank guage shows 37lbs. but is not kicking on normally. Do I need to run water for a period of time,or will that run the well down? Thanks for any advice!

Reply:

Dennis,

As you have running water elsewhere I'd look for a frozen line to the toilet. Running water elsewhere won't fix that. There is more likely a blockage somewhere - ice, closed valve, obstruction.

Feb 21, 2015) Dennis said:
As last resort we went to the kitchen sink(farthest from tank)blast of air from cold water,end of problem!

Question: water pressure varies between fine and trickle

(Mar 24, 2015) Nancy Jones said:
We just replaced our well pump and water softener it was fine for about a week.

Now our water pressure is either fine or goes to a trickle, or nothing at all, then it shows up again. We have checked for leaks from the pressure tank and checked the pressure?

Help we are broke now

Reply:

Nancy

If water pressure and flow nearly stop everywhere then the problem could be any of several issues

two likely candidates

- piping or a filter are clogged by debris stirred up by work on the system

- the well runs out of water because a more powerful pump was installed

Question:

(Apr 14, 2015) albert said:

installed new water storage tank, pump runs and pumps water when faucets are t,urned on, shut pump off the faucets stop immediately.
also have water at the faucet on the manifold.

I replaced the tank thinking my old tank may have a collapsed bladder , for it had the same problem

you mention the filter, where is the filter?

Reply:

Albert, not all home water systems have a water filter installed; If you are not sure, start where the water piping enters the home and follow it to the pressure tank and from there check the piping from pressure tank to the home water cold water supply piping.

ALso check under the kitchen sink as some homes have a point of use filter installed there.

Question: where to put the pressure control switch

(Mar 20, 2014) Paul said:
I am on a well system, and have an 80 gallon pressure tank. Tank is located at well cap, about 100 feet from the house. My question is - is it possible to have the pressure tank at the well fill a pressure tank installed in the house?

The tank in the house would only be connected by the actual water pipe that exits the pressure tank at the well, no pressure switch connection.

So basically it would be tank #1 being filled then water going from tank #1 to tank #2 about 100 feet away, and when tank #2 is full then the pressure switch at tank #1 would cut out the well pump.

Other than the initial filling of tank #2 would their be any issues to the well pump or tank #1 pressure switch?

Reply:

Paul, generally we want the pressure control switch to be close to the pressure tank.

That pair of components can be located wherever it is convenient. I'm unclear of why we're talking about two pressure tanks unless one of them is actually to function as a water storage device.

(Mar 21, 2014) Paul said:
Thanks for the reply -

The primary idea for a second tank was not only for storage, but my thought was also that since the second tank would also be a pressure tank that the pressure inside the house would be better as the run from the well and present tank is over 100 feet from the house and also on a 10% grade lower than the house.

The original tank at the well head would retain the pressure switch and that tank in turn would feed the 2nd tank 100 feet away at the water pipes entry into the house.

I am thinking, and this is just a thought which may be incorrect, is that since another tank, in the house, is also holding water under a pressurized bladder that it would provide a bit better pressure in the house due to the current pressure tank being over 100 feet away and also "pushing" water uphill.

Reply:

If you float a second pressure tank on the supply piping at a 100 ft distance from the original pressure tank (and pressure control switch) it's about the same functionally as if you had simply put a larger pressure tank at the original location.

There are flow losses due to friction losses and bends and restrictions through a water supply system, but pressure sensing is consistent throughout.

That is, with the pressure switch remote, at the well, it's not going to change when the pump turns on and off to add a second pressure tank in the building.

However, a water storage tank high in a building that feeds building plumbing fixtures may give some improved performance by benefiting from gravity as it feeds the rest of the building. In communities served by municipal water mains that operate at low pressures or intermittent pressures, many buildings take this approach: a rooftop or attic-located tank is filled slowly by pressure from the street (or using a booster pump in tall buildings), then that tank feeds the building by gravity (or by gravity and a second booster pump)

Search InspectApedia for ROOFTOP WATER TANKS to see examples.

(Mar 24, 2014) Paul said:
Thanks for the information. My thought was that the second tank, having a pressurized bladder, would pick up some of the pressure loss due to the distance and uphill flow from the pressure tank at the well.

Appreciate your insights.

Reply:

Paul I may not have the correct understanding but in general, a second tank, pressurized by the first one, is never going to be able to "push" water harder into the building than the first one did unless it includes a higher location or a booster pump. You are chiefly adding water storage volume, not water pressure.

Question: could the pressure tank be defective?

(May 2, 2014) Larry said:
I have a new 32 gallon pressure tank that puts out 5.5 gallons of water before it's empty. That seems a little short. The manufacturer tells me that is correct. We shut the pump off at full 60 pounds (40/60 switch) then turned an outside spicket on to fill a bucket. It quit at 5.5 gallons.

If what they say is true, '2/3rds air and 1/3rd water' in the tank, shouldn't I be getting about 10 - 11 gallons before empty? The reason it got my attention is the fact that the pump seems to run a lot when any water is being used in the house - not cycling mind you, but running steady such as when someone is in the shower.

Do you think it's OK? It's only 1 year old, but maybe defective?

It's like most of the pressure building is in the plumbing and not much going into the tank. In fact you can grab the top of the tank and it moves around like it feels very light as in no water in it. Also the gauge in line says 60 pounds at shut off as it should but the air pressure in the top of the tank is 44 pounds.

My well pump guy said they should be equal which makes sense to me too. By the way the pressure in the tank at pump kick on is 38 pounds as it should be.

Oh, and the manufacturer tells me, "my tire gauge must be wrong". I don't think so.

Reply:

Take a look at the condensation line on your water tank and you'll see the level to which it's actually usually filled when in service - at the point of pump shut-off. If the "sweat line" is near the top of the tank it may be close to water-logged.

Question: low flow well troubles

(June 29, 2014) walterwoj said:
I have a new-old house with a low flow well. It had a gallon per hour flow until we had it air-cleaned and now it's up to 1.75-2.0 GPM flow. I am adding 163 Gallons worth of pressure tanks to make the flow work better.

We have capped the pumps output at 2.0 GPM with a dole valve and now I want to know if I can adjust the pump switch from 20-40 to something like 45-50 so the pump will kick on sooner when water is drawn to help it keep up with demand better.

Considering my flow problem will changing the pressure settings work without damaging the equipment?

Reply:

Walter you could go to 30/50 or even 45/60
As long as you don't exceed the pumps maximum pressure capability - else it won't ever reach the cutoff pressure.

Don't set the on-off too close or short cycling an damage the pump. Youd be better off with a large pressure tank and a longer drawdown cycle.m

Comment:

(Aug 12, 2014) Teferi said:
very good support for refference

Question: insufficient water draw down before the pump turns on

23 January 2015 Eric said:
Hi. I just replaced a 52 year old well. 3/4 HP, 10GPM pump. My Flexcon Challenge Pressure Tank Model PC122R (33.4 gal) has a Drawdown of 9.7 Gallons using a 40/60 Pressure Switch. I just measured how many water I am getting from Cut-Out to Cut-In and it is only 5 Gallons. The Well Company said they replaced the Pressure Switch, but I know for certain they didn't replace the Pressure Gauge.

The Pressure Guage was replaced in Jan 2007. The pressure Tank was installed in July 2009. Shouldn't I be getting close to the 9.7 gallons before cut in? What should I be looking into? Air Pressure on the Tank? Bad Gauge? or Something Else? When I tap on the Pressure Tank, it sounds very hollow, so I know it isn't water logged. Is the Pressure in the Tank too low perhaps? Thanks in advance!

One additional comment. The Gauge shows the Cut-In PSI @ 43 and Cut-Out PSI @ 61.

I made an error in my calculation. The drawdown should be 26% which would be 8.7 gallons. Is there possible sediment in the Pressure Tank? I drained the system and checked the pressure on the tank and it was 35 PSI.

I suppose part of the Bladder could be stuck to the side of the tank from the very begining when it was installed? Trying to figure out if there a good way to flush the tank without taking it apart? Thanks.

Well, I tried flushing the pressure tank to see if I could get any sediment out and no change in the drawdown -- about 5 gallons. My main concern is that I have a 10 GPM pump and the time from Cut-In to Cut-Out is only about 35 seconds when there is no demand.

How much good would it do (or harm) if I lowered the Cut-In pressure down to 39? It current seems to kick in about 42 (according to the gauge). I wonder if my gauge is 2 PSI off?? Is there any problem in checking the PSI on the Pressure Tank with a gauge when it is at rest after cutout with no demand?

I guess my other option is to simply get new tank or add a second tank so that I have volume plus the 5 or so I have today.

Well, it appears the mystery is solved. It's simple physics. I plugged in all of the figures (Tank Air PSI, Cut In PSI, Cut Out PSI) into the formula. I first verfied that my Tank had 35 PSI using 3 different tire gauges. Then after shutting down the system a couple of times and draining down to 0 PSI, I could see that the gauge read 35 right after I powered it on, so I think my Pressure Gauge is pretty accurate.

So, I wound up adjusting the Cut-In to 38 and the Cut-Out to 60, I now get a solid 7.5 gallons during drawdown, and it takes at least a minute to get back to cut-out PSI with a single faucet running. That should hopeful reduce the cycling. I am considering adding a second tank and am looking into Cycle Stop Valve, which I just learned about.

Three cheers for Physics and the great information here. I hope someone can learn from my experience. Thanks.

Reply: considering a cycle stop valve

Nice going Eric.

Typically we want the tank pre-charge to be just 2 psi below the pressure switch cut-in setting.

Your feedback will surely help other readers.

And yes I like the cycle stop valve; there are several short-cycle protection devices: a Cycle Stop valve, a well piping tailpiece, and some pressure switches have other built-in sensors that detect various pump problems, interpret them (usually correctly) and will shut off the pump if necessary.

See our description of the Cycle Stop valve at

inspectapedia.com/water/Short_Cycle_Stop_Valves.php

27 January 2015 Eric said

I will take a look at the Cycle Stop Valve information. This is really interesting stuff. With my 40/60 Switch, are there any concerns with having a greater than 20 PSI between the Cut-In and Cut-Out? Because if I use different figures in my calculations, for example, 33 PSI on the Tank, 35 PSI Cut-In, and 58 PSI Cut-Out, my "theoretical" drawdown would increase by almost another gallon. Is it just a matter of making sure the pressure in the house is sufficient?

Do you think it is better to simply add another tank? or better to use something like a Cycle Stop Valve? The only big stressor on my system would be the Sprinkler System, and the number of heads in each zone varies from 3-5.

I am thinking I may need to swap out some more efficent heads with only a 10 GPM pump (and it seems to be doing that from my estimations). Thanks again for your input. I am passing some of this knowledge already to a work colleague who just bought a house with a well!

Reply:

Eric these are two different approaches to low flow rate wells:

Adding more on-site water storage- a cascade of tanks or a very large tank - assures that you will always have enough water and lets the well and pump re-fill the tank(s) at a slow rate, catching up when not much water is being drawn = say when you're asleep.

Adding a cycle stop valve or other pump protector guards against pump burn-up or control burn-up should someone leave the water running and the pump running dry. So adding more onsite storage reduces but does not completely eliminate the risk of pump or control damage.

Question: clogged water tank

(June 2, 2015) Anonymous said:
My water preassure tank is clogged?

Reply:

If the bladder is stuck to itself, keeping water from entering or leaving the tank, see WATER TANK BLADDER REPLACEMENT

Question:

(June 16, 2015) jk said:
how to depressure the pressure tank on my shallow water system

Reply:

Opening any neaby water valve or the tank drain valve should remove water from the tank; to completely empty the tank do this with the pump turned OFF. (Watch out for losing pump prime).

Turn off the pump; open the tank drain valve; if necessary (depending on tank location), connect a garden hose to drain the tank to outside.

IF the tank air pressure is too high on an internal-bladder tank you can release air at the tank top air valve - looks like a tire valve. WATER TANK AIR INLET VALVE

Question:

(June 30, 2015) Cecil said:
I have a small pin hole in my line that feeds my outside water spiket, if I drain or disconnect the line to repair what are the steps to restart after repair

Reply:

Turn off the water outlet from the tank; drain the pipe, repair the leak, turn the water supply back on and you should be OK.

Question: can't get pressure switch to stop chattering

(Aug 17, 2015) Paul E said:
My house has a well with a submersible pump, I recently changed the bladder tank setting the air pre charge to 28PSI, my pressure switch is a 30/50 switch. Since replacing the bladder tank I can't get the pressure switch to stop chattering, I have played with the air pressure in the bladder tank up and down, today I drained the system and reset the preload to 28PSI and it is still happening. Any thoughts?

Reply:

Paul:

Is it possible that the small diameter tube or mounting tube that conducts water pressure to the sensing port on the pressure switch (or the port and sensor itself on the switch) has been clogged with silt and debris?

Burned switch contacts or loose wiring can also be at fault.

Burned contacts can result from a well pump that is short-cycling. WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING - home

I'd try changing the switch.

You've got the right air pre-charge pressure.

Reader follow-up:

(Aug 19, 2015) Anonymous said:
It had burnt the contacts from the chattering so I replaced the switch and have replaced the contacts again yesterday, it appears that it is working properly, when the contacts burnt out last Friday night I had to jumper it out and use the breaker to turn it on and off and I could hear the contacts open and close based on pressure.

The one thing I think I should do is add a permanent pressure gauge to the system rather than one on a hose bib to try and detect the actual pressure when it turns on and off.

Moderator reply:

You do not want to bypass the pressure control switch as if you overpressureize the water system the tank or pipes can burst; I know of a fatality that occurred from that hazard.

If the points keep burning on your switch something is wrong: wiring, voltage, or short cycling pump.

I agree that a pressure gauge is useful and would install one.

(Aug 19, 2015) Anonymous said:
It was due to the short cycling of the pump

Question: change from jet pump to submersible pump

(Sept 15, 2015) Pops said:
Can you put a sermersible pump in an existing well that has a jet pump on it

Reply:

Yes as long as the pump fits in the well casing;

Keep in mind that if you install a more powerful pump you may exhaust the water in the well.

Question: water tank won't fill with water

(Sept 30, 2015) wolfgang said:
I have a new second pressure tank uphill from a cistern with a deep well pump.The second tank will not fill with water,and the tank air charge is set at38psi. at the cistern the pressure is 60psi,which the pump has no problem with. the highest pressure I can get at the second tank is 40 psi, and the second tank will not fill. this is a totally new system.any thoughts?

Reply:

Wolf

Look for a bladder stuck to itself.

Question: iron stains in toilets and sinks

(Oct 25, 2015) Anonymous said:
We've been living in our house for 27 years, our swell water has always been clear and good. Suddenly, we began getting iron looking stains in our toilets and sinks, but water not visibly to tinted ...

Unless I cut the water off to the tank off, then open it, the first water out if the faucet or into the toilet is visibly rust colored. This happens with cold water so not a water heater. Pressure seems to cycle normally, relaxed submersible pump in 2011, but tank nearly 30 years old. Would this most likely be a tank or well water issue?

Larry

Reply:

I'd have a water test performed to determine if the red you see is actually iron or instead bacteria or algae; the latter may be addressed by sanitizing the system; the former may have to do with iron pipes or water tank or aggressive water.

Question: hitting the pipes with a hammer- noise

(Nov 7, 2015) Ginny said:
What could be the problem when the pump kicks on it sounds like you are hitting the pipes with a hammer

Reply:

Ginny you are describing "water hammer" that is related to water flow velocity and valves closing. Search InspectApedia (using the itsy box just above the Comments box) for WATER HAMMER to read the diagnosis and cure for this problem. It's not just noise, water hammer can damage plumbing equipment or cause leaks.

See WATER HAMMER NOISE DIAGNOSE & CURE

Question: How much air does my 100lb holding Tank require

(Feb 9, 2016) Anonymous said:
How much air does my 100lb holding Tank require for good presure

Reply:

Set the air pressure when the tank is empty of water to 2 psi below the pressure control switch cut-in pressure. That will give you the correct air volume in the tank.

Good water pressure is normally obtained with a 20/40 or 30/50 pressure control switch CUT IN / CUT OUT pressure setting

Question: pump cycles without water being used

(Feb 17, 2016) D.j. Gregory said:
Have grundfos 1/2hp shallow well pump and wellxtrol bladder (?) tank --23 yrs. old.

No in house leaks and plastic line and foot valve seem ok. But pump cycles without water use.. Started slowly but now down to 45min. Without using water. Pressure tank gauge reads 50psi and never changes.when water tested years ago there was some sediment (slight) . Realize 23 yrs a long time with no problems!!! Install whole new pump and tank or?

Reply:

Turn off water into th house, DJ. If the pump still cycles then most likely the foot valve is leaking or there is a leak in well piping.

(Feb 18, 2016) D.j. Gregory said:
Thanks ,the reason i didn't suspect the foot valve , i turned off all valves and power to pump for a week . When i returned home i figured i would have to prime the pump. ,but in removing the plug (on piping T on well side of pump) there was pressure there ( it squirted while unscrewing) and took only small amount of water to fill.

I figured it could be the pressure tank. Also just noticed that when i shut the valve to tank ---pressure gauge on pump drops.i---- is that normal?.valve to tank is on T just below house shut off valve.,house side of pump.

Just had a thought, with the pressure tank valve off ,,perhaps there is not enough pressure to push water through foot valve?.

(mod) said:
I don't see how the pressure tank itself would be causing a pump to cycle when no other water is being used, unless the tank itself is leaking water.

(Feb 18, 2016) Dj gregory said:
Thanks again for your input, --- no pressure tank leaks ,so guess its the foot valve. Pump seams to recycle every 45 min.s when no water used and it seems to be holding steady ( for a week anyway ) i have a 17' well encased with 3' diameter cement casings ,

i'll pump it out in the spring .and replace foot valve (i have the water line coming thru cement wall near bottom. ). Too cold to mess with it now (20 degrees below zero ) up here next to canadian border!. Thanks again.

(mod) said:
Foot valves do not always leak at very pump cycle so tracking it down can be tough. Sounds to me as if there's either a bad foot valve or a leak in well piping.

Question: the pressure immediately drop to 30 psi as soon as the pump stops

(Feb 25, 2016) Peter said:
I just added a filter to our water system and adjusted the air pressure in the bladder of the pressure tank to 18 psi (2 psi below the cut-in pressure). I see the pump cut in at 20 psi and cut out at 40 psi just like it did before. But now I see the pressure immediately drop to 30 psi as soon as the pump stops.

I watched it through a few cycles and it does this every time. The pressure builds to 40 psi, the pump stops and the pressure instantly drops to 30 psi.

Reply:

Check for a debris-clogged pressure switch or gauge.

Question: water tank is coming on every 5 mins for a short time

(Mar 25, 2016) Peter said:
When the central heating & hot water is off, the central heating valve on my water tank is coming on every 5mins for a short time, is this normal?

Reply:

Peter I'm not clear on the question. What is the "central valve on my water tank" - what water tank? Water heater? Heating boiler? Expansion tank.

If you mean that the automatic water feeder on your heating boiler - the appliance used to heat your home - is feeding water into the boiler every few minutes, then there is a leak to be found and fixed.

Question: surging water pressure at one fixture, metallic taste

(Apr 1, 2016) Keith said:
I drained my tank added air, changed filter , and it still surges, also now my water taste like metal and has a small rusty tinge to it. How do I fix this promblem.
Oh and it only surges in the kitchen no where else?

Reply:

Keith I'm not sure what's going on nor just what you mean by "surges" - if the water pump is cycling on and off too frequently, please take a look at

inspectapedia.com/water/Short_Cycling_Pump.php

The problem could be at the pressure switch or the tank could still be waterlogged.

About the metallic taste: is this a submersible pump? Might the pump or piping be damaged?

You might want to ask your local water test lab for some advice on choosing a diagnostic water test.

(Apr 2, 2016) Keith said:
Yes on and off with the pump, there was no metal taste until I changed filter and put air in the tank.

(Apr 3, 2016) Keith said:
My pump is submersible, I fill the tank with air and it lost air back to two pounds, not sure if that is normal. I just bought this home and it passed inspection, not only that but they said well is shallow and full. I live on a mountain I get a lot of run off from that, they last owner left repair work orders for new pump and new wire new pip to pump and home new pressure switch.

These work orders are only just over a year old so I'm not sure why I'm having this promblem. Before I touched it I was just having a surge promblem now the surge if more frequent and there is metal in my water.

(mod) said:
Keith:

I'd try replacing the filter cartridge with a different brand - just to rule out a problem there: it's always helpful when diagnosing a building or mechanicals problem to ask "what has changed?" In fact a clogged filter can also cause pump cycling.

If water drawn from a source ahead of the filter also has the bad taste your next step is to discuss what tests are recommended by your local water testing lab, then have the water examined.

I don't rule out a problem coming from the pump itself - a loose connection can also cause odd motor behavior, but it would not be likely to explain the taste issue.

Question: Now where the pressure switch is hooked up is leaking.

(Apr 12, 2016) Tom Hogan said:
I have a private well for my home. I replaced the pressure tank, pressure switch and pressure gauge. I bought new parts and installed with schedule 40 pvc just like it was.

There were some brass into pvc fittings and now I have problems. 2 pvc "t"s cracked. I replaced that with a schedule 80 pvc t and that seemed to work.

Now where the pressure switch is hooked up is leaking. Should I switch all this out with schedule 80 pvc or do I have another underlying problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Reply:

Tom,

Plastic plumbing T's may indeed crack in particular if a pipe running at right angles to the tee is stressed to the side. Using a stronger tee makes sense as would adding pipe supports and looking for a source of vibration or movement in the piping.

If the leak you cite is at the small diameter tube or pipe that conducts water pressure to the bottom of the pressure switch, and if you cannot stop the leak by re-making the pipe connection using teflon tape or pipe dope, indeed you will need to replace those fittings.

Question: leaky water poressure tank, want to lower pressure

(Apr 12, 2016) manny said:
water pressure tanks is leaking. about a drop a minute from the bottom of the tank (appears to be from the pipe attachment)...This occurred after a power outage of about 7 hours....it appears that the pressure gauge is now reading at a higher PSI (40/60) then it was originally.

I definitely have more water pressure coming through the pipes as is noted when I shower or turn on the sink. If it possible that this higher pressure is causing the slight leak? and if so, How do I lower the PSI? Thanks.

Reply:

Manny,

The pressure control switch controls your system pressure if you're on a private well. PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH STANDARD (PSI) SETTINGS

But even 60 psi should not cause a leak at the pressure tank. If the leak is at a fitting it should be possible to drain the tank and re-make the fitting so as to stop the leak.

If the gauge is also not accurate (compare pressure readings with an independent gauge, e.g. at a laundry faucet or hose bib), it may be debris clogged. I'd replace it if that's the case.

Question: can't get the water pressure exact

(Apr 19, 2016) Keith said:
Hey I just fixed my water promblem new tank new pump control. So I noticed that I have a 30/50 switch but it is coming on 20/40.

So I tried to fix it by adjusting it well, now it comes on at 32 and shuts off at 43 I think is that ok I thought they had to operate at 20 psi between the two. I can't seem to get it to be exact not sure if it really matters.

Reply:

No, Keith, you should be ok as you've got it set.

Details are at WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS

Question: how to fix a collapsed internal bladder in a water tank

(Apr 19, 2016) Lori said:
Can a collapsed bladder be fixed?

Reply:

Lori:

In some water tank models the bladder can be replaced.

Some plumbers try "opening" a bladder that has collapsed and stuck to itself by over-pressurizing the water tank SLIGHTLY to try to pop open the door.

WATCH OUT: if someone applies pressure to a water tank in excess of its rating the tank could burst and injure or kill people nearby.

Question: gurgling noise in the water tank

(Apr 20, 2016) Anonymous said:
I hear a gurgling noise from inside my water tank. i also have a lot of air in my lines and hot water heater. is my pump sucking air or is there a problem with the bladder inside the tank. thanks in advance

Reply:

When you hear gurgling of air in water piping or in the tank I suspect air is entering the system, perhaps from low water in the well or a leak in well piping or a bad air control valve or snifter valve.

Search InspectApedia.com for AIR DISCHARGE at FIXTURES to read details.

Question: Well is cycling on about every five minutes.

(May 8, 2016) Anonymous said:
Well is cycling on about every five minutes. Pressure goes up on the gage and well shuts off. Then gague shows a slow drop in pressure until well comes on again. What are the possible causes for this?

Reply:

If you are sure there is no water running in or at the building look for leak in well piping or a leaky foot valve or a bad check valve. See

CHECK VALVES, WATER SUPPLY, DRAINS, PUMPS

WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES

Question: added air to the water tank but still we have no water in the house

(May 11, 2016) Dawn said:
there is no water the gauge is not reading any presure put air in tank but not reading but air comes out but still no water

Reply:

awn,

Just adding air to a pressure tank won't give you water. The pump has to turn on.

See WATER PUMP WON'T START FAQs

and see WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH

Question: no hot water just cold water

(June 3, 2016) Marilyn said:
Put in new presume tank but no hot water only cold

Reply:

Marylin
Normally a pressure tank is a head of the water heater, so it doesn't seem likely that the tank would differentiate between hot and cold water; more likely someone left a valve shut.

Question: pump short cycling after repairs

(July 4, 2016) karen said:
i went thro steps to pressurize my tank and adjusted pressure switch, ran great good water pressure, a week later pump is back short cycling. tank seems to have plenty of water in it, but turn on fauset and pump comes on too. what could be problem thank you

Reply:

sounds as if the tank has become water logged. The problem could be a leak in the tank bladder or a defective air volume control.

Question: bladder tank loses pressure too quickly

(July 7, 2016) johnny said:
Hello!

I've got this problem that I cannot solve. Bladerless tank loses pressure fast, like in 10-20 seconds. Pressure rises (very fast, in a matter of seconds) when the pump is running even with the inlet valve on the tank shut off - what the hell?

Pressure switch is okay - it starts the pump at 1,5bar and shuts off at 3,5bar. But the pressure in the tank drops from those 3,5 to 1,5 in a matter of 10-20 seconds with no water used (inlet and outlet valves on the tank are closed). But I can't see nor hear any air/water leaks. The pressure gauge is installed at about 2/3 height of the tank.

What can be the problem? Many thanks for any replies.

Forgot to add - I have also an air injector valve (venturi valve) parallel with the tank main inlet water valve. Can this be bypassing water when the inlet valve is shut off? This is the only way I can explain to myself why is tank pressure rising when both inlet and outlet valves are closed and the water pump is running.

Reply:

The tank may be waterlogged - as can happen if the tank also has a burst bladder

Or there is a failed check valve or foot valve letting water run back into the well.

Question: bad water flow out of very large water storage tank

(July 8, 2016) Steve said:
Hello; I Have a 4000 Gallon Water Storage Tank, The Tank Is Full Of Water But there is a bigtime reduction in the flow of water, What is causing this?

Reply:

Steve, volume of water does not equal water pressure; there may be a clog, or loss of pump pressure or something else. Search InspectApedia for DIAGNOSE BAD WATER PRESSURE to read diagnosis and repair steps.

Or start at WELL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS - home

WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE

Question: Water pressure increases quickly but falls off again quickly

Johnny continues from earlier discussion:

[paraphrasing] Pump comes on, water pressure builds up quickly, then pump stops and water pressure falls quickly.

Reply: bad check valve or foot valve

Johnny

If the pressure rises very fast in your water pressure tank then it has most probably lost its air charge; Or the bladder is stuck to itself and water is staying in the tank but being pushed-on when the pump runs (a rather wierd and less likely case IMO).

Losing water pressure, if NO water is being run in or at the building points to a bad check valve or foot valve.

2016/07/27 johnny said:
danjoefriedman,

Thanks. Turns out it was the check valve right by the water pump. It was torn to shreds inside. Water was being flown back into the well because of this and that's why I was losing pressure. The tank is bladerless.

Question:

(July 13, 2016) Wayne said:
Down 23 ' 2yr wayne 1/2 hp jet pump , plenty water, table is high, froze short time last winter . Pump runs at 50 40 psi then drops dramatically , 20 pd pressure tank fills ok after s picket are turned off. New piping installed installed by pro. 4 mo. ago. Was bladder damaged by freezing?

Reply:

I'm not clear on what's happening Wayne. I think that if the pressure tank froze certainly it could be damaged, as could piping, check valves, controls or the pump iteself. However if an internal bladder type tank froze enough to burst the bladder the symptom would perhaps be a waterlogged pressure tank and pump short-cycling rather than pressure drop.

 

Key Water Tank Diagnostic Articles

If you have no water pressure at all, see NO WATER PRESSURE

If your water pressure is intermittent, starts and stops, or varies in pressure

, see WATER PRESSURE INTERMITTENT LOSS

Is there some water pressure but the pressure and/or flow are poor?

1. Water supply piping problem? 
   
   See Bad water pressure Clogged Pipes
   and
   WATER PIPE CLOG REPAIR
   
   The following articles pertain if you have a private well, pump, and tank system for your building
2. Water Tank Problems? 
   See WATER PRESSURE TANK REPAIRS
3. Water pump problems? 
   See
   1. WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS
   2. WATER PUMPS & TANKS & WELLS
   3. WATER PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHES
4. Bad water pressure regulator? 
   
   See WATER PRESSURE REDUCER / REGULATOR (not usually installed on private well and pump systems, often present on municipal water supply systems that use an in-building local water pump and pressure tank to boost pressure)

...

Continue reading at WATER TANK DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

Recommended Articles

• WATER TANK REPAIR PROCEDURES
• WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE
• WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING
• WATER PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHES - home
• WATER TANK AIR VOLUME CONTROLS - home
• WATER TANK vs WATER PRESSURE

Suggested citation for this web page

WATER TANK DIAGNOSTIC FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

Or see this

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS & SPRINGS

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