Water pump control switch repair questions & answers set #1:
This article describes how to repair a bad well pump or water pump pressure control switch.
We provide pump pressure switch diagnosis, repair, or replacement advice, procedures & questions & answers about the well pump or water pressure control switch.
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These questions & answers about how to repair the pressure control switch for a well pump were posted originally at WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH REPAIRS the topic home page for this topic. Please be sure to also check the diagnosis and repair procedures given there.
Watch out: SAFETY WARNING OF FATAL SHOCK HAZARD: if you remove the cover of the pump pressure control switch you can get access to the two nuts that adjust the operating pressures of the water pump.
But watch out! There are also live electrical contacts exposed in this area. If you touch them, especially being near water piping, there is a serious risk of death by electrocution.
Watch what you touch, or have a professional plumber or electrician do this job for you.
[Click to enlarge any image]
On 2017-07-04 by (mod) re: pressure switch keeps clicking
No. That sounds as if your system has a short cycling or Rapid Cycling problem. Perhaps the pressure tank is waterlogged.
On 2017-07-0 by Jan
After new switch is in, should it be clicking all the time?
On 2017-06-29 03:51:00.750561 by Cameron
Hello
My water pump (in house) seems to cycle on and off, even when no water is being demanded. Water pressure is good in the home, is this leaking well pipes, a leaky diaphragm in the water tank?
Thank you.
On 2017-06-21 by Mark
I have a two pipe system. I put a new pump on and it pumps 2.5 gpm. It will not build pressure. It only goes up to 37 psi. It has never gone higher than that yet it will pump 2.5 gpm for hours. any help?
On 2017-06-12 by (mod) re: toilet fill stops all other water flow
This sounds to me as if the home has either poor pressure (Reduced flow rate) at the supply source or pipes are clogged.
Are you on city water? Is there a pressure regulator that can be adjusted?
On 2017-06-11 by Heather
If I run my shower and flush my toilet at the same time and the toilet is filling up it cuts off all water to the house how do I fix that
On 2017-05-23 by (mod)
Richard,
I would go ahead and replace the pump.If the water pressure tank is in good conditionI would not replace thatAnd similarly because replacing the foot valve requires pulling in the well pipingI would wait on that too – it's a separate Repair topic.
On 2017-05-23 by Richard
Thanks for your quick reply. I'm thinking based on your reply that the pump is simply failing as it does make a slight screeching sound. I replaced the pressure switch so the contact points are good. I haven't had a chance to test the voltage but I feel certain nothing has changed. I have a replacement pump on standby but wanted to make sure there wasn't something I was missing.
I can't complain since the pump has lasted for 17 years. Would you suggest going ahead and replacing the water tank and foot valve while I'm at it? Again, thanks for your reply, I appreciate it.
On 2017-05-22 by (mod) - I tapped the top of the pressure switch with my hand and the pump began to run
Richard
Replacing the pump motor start/run capacitor would be a first guess, but you tried that - and assuming you've got the right capacitor that cause now is unlikely.
Your check of the pressure control switch for clogging is sensible but when a well pump is humming then the problem is not the pressure control switch (or at least not likely as I'll mention in a moment).
More likely the pump has a damaged, jamming impeller assembly or a failing bearing.
When you tapped on the pump via tapping on the control switch that might be just enough to jar loose a jamming part.
The small leak you see might be related to this problem if the leak is around a pump bearing or shaft, as that might combine a leak with corrosion and jamming.
The above is my guess, but there can be more subtle causes of a hum-no-start pump including:
- low voltage being delivered to the pump
- burned jamming pressure control switch contact points
If you can wave a DMM or VOM about without getting shocked or killed, you might try checking the voltage level of the circuit, and you might (with power OFF) visually inspect the points of the control switch for arc burns - in which case I'd repalce the
On 2017-05-22 03:58:27.294913 by Richard
My Myers HR50 1/2 HP deep well jet water pump began to not turn on when it got to the cut on pressure of 30. I could hear the pump humming but it would not completely start up. I figured the capacitor was bad so I replaced it. Then initially the pump came on as it should and filled the tank and cut off at 50, but when it should have cut on again, it did the same thing and just hummed.
I tapped the top of the pressure switch with my hand and the pump began to run. I then thought the pressure switch was bad (the contacts looked rough) so I replaced that.
Again, initially the pump ran but then when it should have cut on again, it just hummed. I again tapped it with my and it started. Oddly at times it will run as it should when the pressure gets down to 30. Today, I took the fittings off at the pump and at the bottom of the pressure switch that the small diameter tubing connects to.
I also made sure the pressure switch diaphragm was clean of debris. I used a toothpick and some cleaning solution to clean out the debris.
The tubing looked pretty clear and I could blow air through it. I cut off both ends of the tubing before I reattached it to the fittings. Still, I am having the same problem. The pressure switch will close the contacts when the pressure gets to 30 but the pump will at times run normally or it may hum until I tap the pressure switch. I plan on replacing the tubing and fittings. The 20 gallon Challenger 66 water tank had 8 psi.
I emptied the tank and raised the psi to 27.
The water tank appears to be in good condition and is holding the air pressure. When the tank is full I think the psi was about 51. The pump is a bit noisy when running, sounding abrasive for lack of a better way to describe but it has sounded like that for most of the 17 years it has been in place.
There is a tiny bit of water coming from under the pump which makes me think the seal needs replacing. The water tank is the same age.
The pump does not loose prime after it fills the water tank unless the pump doesn't cut on at 30 and all of the water is ran out of the tank. I have tried to include all details.
I am wits end trying to figure out why at most times the pump will not run normally without me tapping on the pressure switch. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
On 2017-05-22 by (mod) re: water pump humps but won't turn on
Richard
Replacing the pump motor start/run capacitor would be a first guess, but you tried that - and assuming you've got the right capacitor that cause now is unlikely.
Your check of the pressure control switch for clogging is sensible but when a well pump is humming then the problem is not the pressure control switch (or at least not likely as I'll mention in a moment). More likely the pump has a damaged, jamming impeller assembly or a failing bearing. When you tapped on the pump via tapping on the control switch that might be just enough to jar loose a jamming part.
The small leak you see might be related to this problem if the leak is around a pump bearing or shaft, as that might combine a leak with corrosion and jamming.
The above is my guess, but there can be more subtle causes of a hum-no-start pump including:
- low voltage being delivered to the pump
- burned jamming pressure control switch contact points
If you can wave a DMM or VOM about without getting shocked or killed, you might try checking the voltage level of the circuit, and you might (with power OFF) visually inspect the points of the control switch for arc burns - in which case I'd repalce the
On 2017-05-22 by Richard
My Myers HR50 1/2 HP deep well jet water pump began to not turn on when it got to the cut on pressure of 30. I could hear the pump humming but it would not completely start up.
I figured the capacitor was bad so I replaced it. Then initially the pump came on as it should and filled the tank and cut off at 50, but when it should have cut on again, it did the same thing and just hummed.
I tapped the top of the pressure switch with my hand and the pump began to run. I then thought the pressure switch was bad (the contacts looked rough) so I replaced that.
Again, initially the pump ran but then when it should have cut on again, it just hummed. I again tapped it with my and it started. Oddly at times it will run as it should when the pressure gets down to 30. Today, I took the fittings off at the pump and at the bottom of the pressure switch that the small diameter tubing connects to.
I also made sure the pressure switch diaphragm was clean of debris. I used a toothpick and some cleaning solution to clean out the debris. The tubing looked pretty clear and I could blow air through it.
I cut off both ends of the tubing before I reattached it to the fittings. Still, I am having the same problem. The pressure switch will close the contacts when the pressure gets to 30 but the pump will at times run normally or it may hum until I tap the pressure switch.
I plan on replacing the tubing and fittings. The 20 gallon Challenger 66 water tank had 8 psi. I emptied the tank and raised the psi to 27. The water tank appears to be in good condition and is holding the air pressure. When the tank is full I think the psi was about 51.
The pump is a bit noisy when running, sounding abrasive for lack of a better way to describe but it has sounded like that for most of the 17 years it has been in place. There is a tiny bit of water coming from under the pump which makes me think the seal needs replacing. The water tank is the same age.
The pump does not loose prime after it fills the water tank unless the pump doesn't cut on at 30 and all of the water is ran out of the tank. I have tried to include all details. I am wits end trying to figure out why at most times the pump will not run normally without me tapping on the pressure switch. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
On 2017-05-09 by (mod) re: not much water out of pressure tank: bad tank bladder
Jim,
Yes, with pump off the most water you'd get would be 5-20 gallons depending on the tank size AND on how full it was when you turned off the pump. If you get zero water then the tank isn't taking water and its intake is blocked. Some water tanks have a replaceable bladder.
Search InspectApedia using the search box above to find our article on WATER TANK BLADDER REPLACEMENT
On 2017-05-09 by Jim
Yes, someone else had said the bladder may be the issue. If the bladder is the problem, is there any way to correct? I hate to think of draining the tank every fall and having this issue repeat.
I tried running water without the pump on and the tank will not supply any water. The tank was working fine until I busted the plastic "t". It sat for a month until we replaced with a brass fitting. Now the system doesn't seem to recognize there is a pressure tank connected. could the tank bladder be defective?
On 2017-05-09 by (mod) re: water doesn't go into our come out of the bladder type pressure tank
If no water enters or leaves the pressure tank that I suspect that it is a tank that uses and internal bladder and the bladder is stuck to itself or has collapsed
On 2017-05-09 by Anonymous
I tried running water without the pump on and the tank will not supply any water. The tank was working fine until I busted the plastic "T". It sat for a month until we went back with a brass fitting. Now the system doesn't seem to recognize there is a pressure tank connected.
On 2017-05-08 by (mod) re: set the proper air charge in the pressure tank to 2 psi below CUT-IN pressure
Jim your pressure tank air pre-charge pressure must be 2 psi BELOW the pressure control switch CUT-IN pressure. If your pump control wants to cut in at 20 psi the tank precharge - after pressure has been drained from the system - should be 18 psi.
Turn off the pump.
Run water until the pressure tank stops sending water into the home.
Check the air pressure in the tank - if it's above 18 psi let air out until you get the tank down to 18 psi.
Then close all valves and turn on the pump.
On 2017-05-08 by Jim
I recently installed a new pressure tank, pressure switch, and gauge on my water system. The pressure in the tank is 26.5#s and under pressure 38.5#/
The pump kicks in at 20# and out at 40#. When we open a valve or flush a toilet the pump starts almost immediately and kicks out a few seconds later when pressure reaches 40#.
It continues to short cycle like this until toilet tank is full or faucet turns off. Please tell me there is an easy solution. Do I have something wired wrong? Do I have the gauge or switch in the wrong position?
Thanks in advance Jim
On 2017-01-15 by (mod) re: Why does my automatic pump control go to failure?
Tallal, I realliy can't say with so little information. What's the control, what sort of pump, what control brand and model, what kind of failure, what evidence of failure?
On 2017-01-15 by Tallal Ziad
Why does my automatic pump control go to failure?
On 2017-01-01 by (mod) re: knocking pipes when pump turns on or off
Ek. Try the repair advice found by searching inspectapedia.com for WATER HAMMER
On 2016-12-31 by EKP
My well pump switch is working properly according to the pressure gage. 40-60 switch and turns on at 40 and off at 60. I have had a new Amtrol pressure tank. I get great pressure through the house BUT when the switch clicks off at 60 psi it creates a shock or 'kick' that knocks.
I've shut the pump off and opened all the sinks/showers/toilets several times but still getting the annoying knock when the well pump regulator hits 60 psi. Any advice on troubleshooting? The knocking makes me bonkers!
On 2016-12-26 by (mod) re: set the right tank pressure
Jeff,
Adding air to the pressure tank was a mistake. The pressure of the empty tank should be 2 psi below the pressure switch cut in pressure setting, say 18 for a 2o/40 psi or 28 for a 30/50 psi typical system.
Try correcting the tank pressure, then replace the switch.
On 2016-12-26 by Jeff Crabtree
Ok I have an in ground pump, and here recently I've had no water so first I checked the pressure tank and the air was low so I put 35 psi in and still no water
Second I switched out the pressure switch and still the same problem.
I can get water if I manually press the pressure switch than I get water for a couple minutes than it's the same problem all over again
So what's the next step? Pull the pump and replace it?
On 2016-12-21 by (mod) re: are the pressure switch points normally closed
Anon:
The pressure control switch that turns on a water pump is normally open - that is, not conducting electricity.
It is certainly right that if the pump ran continuously you'd either over-pressurize the system (that's very dangerous) or you'd ruin the pump.
On 2016-12-21 by Anonymous
why are pressure switches normally closed? doesn't that create the posseblity of over pressurizing the system?
On 2016-12-19 by Anonymous
What if my well pressure switch is not attached to the pipe??
On 2016-11-13 by Mark
I replaced my pump and pump won't stop running. I'm also not getting water. Could the pressure switch cuz this?
On 2016-11-09 by (mod) re: will the pressure switch turn off the pump if the pressure gauge is not working?
Great question, Blake. You betcha. The gauge is a physically separate device that shows water pressure. The pressure control switch senses pressure through a small-diameter pipe or tube connected (usually) from the water tank or water piping or water pump directly to the under-side of the switch.
On 2016-11-09 by Blake
Will pressure switch still shut off when max psi is reached if the gauge isnt working?
On 2016-10-31 by (mod) re: can we replace a 20/40 switch with a 30/50 pressure switch?
Anon
Yes but you may need to re-set the pressure switch cut-in and cut-out if your pump can't reach the 50 psi cutoff level,
and you'll need to set the pressure tank air pre-charge to 2 psi below the new pressure switch cut-in - that'll be 28 psi.
On 2016-10-30 by Anonymous
If we have 20/40 can you replace it with 30/50
On 2016-10-23 by (mod) re: what to check if I accidentally shorted the pressure switch
First check that the circuit breaker was not tripped.
Next check for burned, damaged wiring or connectors.
Next look at the contact points: they may be stuck, burned, or damaged - on some switches these can be replaced; else I'd replace the switch.
On 2016-10-22 by john
I recently had the water pressure switch replaced with a new one. It was working just fine, however I wanted to increase the pressure to 65-70. It was set for 40-60. While I was turning the nut I touched the pressure plate with my crescent wrench and generated a small spark. Now the pressure switch does not turn on even when the pressure goes well below 40. I think I shorted something out? How can I resolve this and get this brand new switch to work? Thank you.
On 2016-10-15 by Mike
Pressure switch went bad, replaced pressure switch, now the water will not come on even flipped the switch on the pressure switch
On 2016-08-23 by (mod) re: water pump is overheating
If the pump is overheating Chris I suspect either low-voltage to the pump motor or a failing bearing or jamming impeller, or that the pump is running "dry".
On 2016-08-23 by chris
when water pump heats up and trips and cools then pumps what should be the problem
On 2016-07-27 by (mod) re: what's the purpose of the lever on the pump pressure control switch
Anon: Please see MANUAL PUMP ON/OFF SWITCH - side lever on pump control switch
in WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH REPAIRS where we've added details about the side lever on the pumptrol switch.
The direct link is
MANUAL PUMP ON/OFF SWITCH - side lever on pump control switch
On 2016-07-27 by Anonymous
I purchased a Sq D Low pressure switch 30/50 when I opened the package Is aw a leaver on the side on the contact points you can adjust it 90 degrees but I don't know why? other switch don't have this lever! is it lever down 30? psi lever up 50 psi ?
(Mar 20, 2015) Rae said:
Ihave a piston pump running from a shallow well and have had air lock/noise in the lines for awhile. Recently the water pressure to the taps has dropped off considerably and my pump will not shut off on its own.What is the cause and possible repair.
Rae,
IF the well itself is running dry that'd be the trouble.
Other things to check:
- clogged foot valve
- an air leak in the well piping - this is the most likely problem from what I read in your note
- worn pump or a leak in the pump assembly itself
(Mar 30, 2015) diaphram said:
I just replaced my pressure switch and it works fine. My old switch would sometimes let the water pressure go down, but the switch would not acivate. When I took it apart, the diaphram had developed hard corrosion on it, which I think caused it to not activate when the pressure dropped. I could depress the contacts with a yard stick & it would start & work fine for a couple days. Would it be a good idea to coat the diaphramt with vaseline to keep it flexible & from not developing corrossion on it
Dia
That's an interesting idea but not one I can recommend for several reasons:
- the switch is not intended for end-user disassembly and re-assembly and messing with it may make it unsafe
- vaseline can damage some types of rubber parts
- the same crud that you found on the diaphragm collects in and ultimately blocks the pressure sensing port or tube - that's usually where the trouble lies.
Interesting idea though.
(Apr 19, 2015) Steve said:
Water pressure in the house runs 'low' for a bit, then runs 'high' shortly, and drops back down to 'low' and repeats the process.
I empathize low and high because it just as well could be high and higher with the faucet.
At the well, the gauge reads similar. The switch will cut on at 30, run quickly (not jump) to 50, and cut off. It then immediately falls back down to 32, at the same approximate rate as it climbed. It will sit there a bit, a couple of minutes if water is running in the house, falling to 30, and repeats the cycle.
I replaced the gauge and switch, but I didn't clean out the small pipe to which it attaches.
I thought I had a water-logged tank, which would reduce the volume of air, hence volume of water at the proper settings. It is not fixed yet, and I worry about my pump (at 500'). I can't pinpoint exactly when it started, to determine what is different from when it worked.
Steve I think your water tank is waterlogged
(Apr 23, 2015) BJC said:
I have a pressure tank system off a well pump feeding water to my house I put my sprinkler system on my line in from the pump to the house and it has worked flawlessly since I put it in, but now I am putting in a water softener and it has a back flow preventer that will not allow the water pressure to bleed down from the sprinkler system so the pressure tank won't tell the pump to kick on.
I have looked at some pump starters that work with my Hunter controller but these starters seem to be just for an irrigation or sprinkler pump system not for a pressure tank system. I was hoping to wire a manual switch in parallel to my pressure switch so my home can tell the pump to start or my sprinkler controller can start the pump but have had little luck searching to the end of the Internet to find it any help is greatly appreciated thanks
BJC
I'm not sure of the order of your piping but generally you would not want nor need to run water for a lawn sprinkler system through the water softener first. Take the sprinkler water supply off of the cold water supply pipe ahead of the water softener.
(May 4, 2015) Anonymous said:
I have a 30/50 pressure swith on my system with new bladder tank and switch and when my pump turns on it builds to 45psi then starts to short cycle. what is causing this?
Check for
- pump cut-out set too high - the pump is having trouble reaching it
- debris clogged pressure control switch sensor port
- burned switch contacts
(May 28, 2015) Kissel said:
I am experiencing poor water pressure and low flow rate. Just replaced my 7-yr old well pump thinking it was worn but that did not solve the issue. I am getting around 12GPM from the drain valve at the pressure switch (on a 10GPM pump). Measured flow rate after the pressure tank of 3GPM. Pressure gauge seems to work - turns pump on and off at 60/40psi. Is the problem an old/clogged Amtrol pressure tank? (It sounds hollow and shows no signs of external rust but I don't know the age.) Any other suggestions?
Kissel, please see WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE
(May 30, 2015) Fine´ said:
My pump its spark when the pressure is kick in. is that normal or will do harm to the pump and cause fire?
I suspect your pressure switch control relay points are burned - replace the switch
(June 10, 2015) Concerned Homeowner said:
I do not know much about wells or pumps or anything of that nature. I am learning as I go.
We are renting to own a home right now and we have trouble with sediment from time to time. We have to clean out our filters on our washing machine and on our faucets in the home. Last night out of the blue we had ZERO water pressure.
I looked at our pressure control switch and we do have the bypass lever on it. When I begin to move it in the up position you can hear the system running and the water begins to flow and the pressure slowly S L O W L Y begins to build back up close to 20 psi.
However when I am in the process of pushing the leaver up you can see the bolts/screws touch and hear the system running and if I hold lever it continues to run. When I push it all the way up it sparks and the system stops running. Do you think I have a clogged issue or do I need to replace the pressure control switch.
I am freaking out right now, tight on funds and need to get this fixed asap.
If the switch is doing its job - as we suspect - the problem is loss of water in the well or a damaged, failing pump that can't deliver pressure. I suspect this because when you force the pump to run water pressure builds very slowly. Other causes include piping leaks or water running somewhere in the building.
(July 11, 2015) Rich in Ohio said:
We bought a house 5 years ago that is our first ever with a well. 3 years ago, I replaced tank, pump regulator and piping from the basement wall to the tank. So long story short - it has a chlorine injection systen that a 'friend' mis-diagnosed as a brine tank - yup filled it with salt a fried the injection pump. Well now we know.
So new everything including the injection pump - as of 30 minutes ago - but now the pump won't stop. Do I need to replace pump sensor as well? It ran with the salt for quite a while - obviously 3 years - I am just confused.
Ok so I think its my switch and I think I bought the wrong size - tank has a psi of 25 on it and I think we have a 20-40 switch on top of the salt issue I mentioned earler so going to buy new 30-50 switch and replace gauge at same time as a C.Y.A. move.
Rich if the water tank air pre-charge pressure is set above the pressure control switch cut-in pressure then the switch will never cut-in and the pump won't be turned on even if you run all of the water out of the tank.
See WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING
(July 20, 2015) Daniel said:
Using a shallow well pump on my 1000 gallon water capture system.
When I hook it to the hose with a trigger spray on it to water flowers and such it pumps fine but when I stop the flow of water the switch tries to shut the pump off but instead cycles quickly, every 1/2 second or so, shortly the pump overheats and shuts down until it can cool properly
Click, Click, Click. I've tried adjusting the screw that regulates pressure but it does the same thing only at different pressures. Any ideas?
Daniel's pump is at Red Lion 12 GPM 1/2 HP Cast Iron Shallow Well Jet Pump that is widely available from plumbing suppliers, Model Red Lion RJS 50E RL7H
Typically when I see rapid cycling at the pump-off point it's either a bad pressure control switch or the absence of a pressure tank at all. You'll also see this if you close an outlet valve on a pumping system.
SHUT IT OFF. This smashing clicking rapid cycling at pump cut-off is risking damaging the pump motor or other pump components.
The underlying problem is that without an air charge in a pressure tank (or other special equipment where no pressure tank is installed) the pump is finding that water is not very compressible. When the pump is running it's delivering say 40 psi at the cutout point but when the motor stops the pressure is falling immediately low enough to turn the pump back on and so on.
(Aug 6, 2015) Anonymous said:
my pressure is usually stops at 60lbs now it stops at 40lb and when it drops to 20lb sometimes it shuts down
instead and i get no water
Anon
Check for a well whose water level or flow rate has deteriorated.
(Aug 26, 2015) Ernest said:
The pump will operate pump up to 70 lbs and to than stop, drop to 40 lb will not start until manual reset. repeat the cycle again.
I'd replace the switch; I suspect it's debris clogged.
(Oct 5, 2015) Anonymous said:
pump cutting out and in
Anon see WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING - if the pump cycles on and off rapidly when you are using water, or see WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING if the pump cycles on and off at odd times
(Oct 6, 2015) peggy said:
My water is not workiing at all today,for about a week it has been like strong weak strong weak neighbor said my connections were not working proper kicken on and off he was looking under the metal cap that sticks out of the ground....now no watrr at all.....did I kill they pump for not turning it off or if the thing he was talken about just gave up can my pump still be ok ....please help
Peggy please see WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING and let me know if questions remain.
(Oct 29, 2015) wan said:
How can I change pump operating cut in & cut out to pump start when water valve open & stop when valve shut?
Easy, Wan. See WATER PUMP VARIABLE FREQUENCY / VARIABLE SPEED DRIVE (VFDs) for a system that will do exactly what you want, and you won't need a water pressure tank. Maybe.
(Nov 19, 2015) Suraj said:
I have a Pentax water pump and water coming out from the release hole
is that normal the pump working good besides
Suraj,
No it's not normal. There may be a control problem or a water hammer problem in your system. Or the pressure may be set too high, a DANGEROUS CONDITION.
(Nov 25, 2015) Jan said:
I was doing laundry two days ago about to do the last load--no water. Pipes are not frozen, there are no leaks, bladder tank has 40 pounds of pressure, pressure switch was replaced in the spring of this year, no clogs in the stem to the pressure switch but no water and pressure gauge reads 60 lbs of pressure.
Jan:
If you see pressure at the bladder tank and pressure gauge but no water is being delivered either a valve is closed or the gauge is stuck and the truth is there is no pressure - which could be a pump not running or loss of well water; if the latter, after the system is left off for hours or longer it may recover.
(Nov 28, 2015) tamsyn said:
I replaced a pump which kept switching itself on and off with a new one, different model, but have the same problem. Plummer cannot find a leak anywhere. It's driving me nuts. What's the problem?
(Jan 16, 2016) Anonymous said:
the pressure switch keeps turning on and off. What causes this to happen?
Tamsyn, please see WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES if the pump cycles on and off rapidly when you're running water.
WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING if the pump seems to run sometimes for no apparent reason. Let me know if those pump diagnostic procedures don't solve your problem.
Anon
In the article links found near the top of this article please select the article titled
WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING - home
To read a diagnosis explanation and cure for the problem you describe.
(Jan 2, 2016) dave said:
what causes points to burn on the common wire side of pressure switch
Some arcing burning is normal on relay switches, Dave, but excessive burning may mean that the pump was short-cycling.
(Jan 3, 2016) Anonymous said:
We put in a new pump and pressure switch and pipe but not getting enough juice to run pump up to pressure
Anon:
It sounds as if you need help from a professional electrician - low voltage could be due to a wiring error or a problem with the building electrical service. Or you may have a failed pump motor. Some measurements and detective work are needed.
(Jan 10, 2016) Anonymous said:
Pump won't cut off just keeps running put new pressure switch on and it still won't cut off at 60 psi and will not cut off
Anon see WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING for diagnostic help with your problem.
(Feb 14, 2016) Joe said:
Disconnected well line before expansion tank manually turned on pump water pressure seems very week can a old pump run half speed
Yes Joe if the voltage is abnormally low for any reason. And some 240V motors may limp along when one leg of the circuit is even off completely.
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