Heating boiler repair questions & answers for no heat or loss of heat.
Frequently asked questions (FAQs) about how to diagnose & repair a heating boiler (hot water heat) that is not working.
This article series explains the diagnosis and correction of no heat conditions for water or hydronic or hot water or radiator or baseboard hot water heating systems. We describe how to inspect, troubleshoot and repair heating and air conditioning systems to inform home owners, buyers, and home inspectors of common heating system defects.
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- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?
Questions & answers about troubleshooting and fixing heating boilers, posted originally
at BOILERS, HEATING - home. That's a good place to find our articles on diagnosing and fixing all types of problems with hot water (hydronic) or steam heating boilers.
On 2019-02-12 by (mod) - Weil McLain GV4 Boiler Condensate Troubleshooting & Safety Warnings
Apologies Tom an authoritative reply is beyond my expertise. With that caveat I will offer a few comments:
I think I'd check first to be sure that condensate is being properly routed and the drain is not clogged, kinked, improperly-sloped. I'd look for clots of dust getting into the line, which might indeed point back to a need for cleaning /service.
Specific and key to the Weil McLain gV4 boiler is a bypass circulator that you want checked. If you don't have the manual for your boiler you can obtain one from WeilMcLain at www.weil-mclain.com/sites/default/files/field-file/gv-series-4-manual_1.pdf
or at WEIL McLAIN GV4 BOILER MANUAL [PDF]
Here is an excerpt:
The GCM operates the bypass circulator to mix hot water from the boiler outlet with colder return water from the system as needed to prevent condensation of flue gases in the boiler. When the water returning to the boiler is below 140 °F, the GCM regulates the bypass circulator and system circulator flow rates to raise the return water temperature up to 140 °F before it enters the boiler sections.
By balancing these flow rates, the GCM can protect against condensation even
if return water is as low as 60 °F.
Pump must remain on boiler — do not remove.
Watch out: there are a lot of other detail about venting the GV4 and about proper handling of condensate including a whole section beginning on p. 12 in the manual.
A mistake coiuld make the boiler unsafe and even risk fatal carbon monoxide poisoning.
Vent system
Watch out:The GV boiler requires a special vent system, designed for pressurized venting with likelihood of condensation in the vent. This is referred to as ANSI Z21 Class IV, Condensing. You may use any of the vent systems covered by the GV venting supplements included in the instruction manual envelope. The GV vent starter tee is a special item designed only for the GV boiler, available from each vendor.
Do not attempt to connect the vent to the GV boiler with any other means. DO NOT mix components from different systems. The vent system could fail, causing leakage of flue products into the living space, causing severe personal injury or death.
The company states
This manual must only be used by a qualified heating installer/ service technician. Failure to comply could result in severe personal injury, death or substantial property damage.
Also see this
https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Weil_McLain_Heater_Recalls.php
On 2019-02-12 03:46:17.405772 by Tom
I am getting a few drops of condensate in the line to the pressure switch on my gv4 Weil Mc boiler. It is enough that the flow switch will not satisfy for a successful start. Drain the hose and it is okay for several starts. after several cycles condensed appears again and locks out the system. Air flow is clean and dry. Could burner assembly need cleaning or replaced??
On 2018-10-14 by (mod) -
If you can do so without getting shocked good start by confirming power to the blower.
On 2018-10-13 by Kelly
I have an old boiler style furnace. The blowers are not kicking on, are there any suggestions for what I need to do to get the blowers to kick on to circulate the heat through my house? Thank you for any help you could give me.
2016/02/11 Mary said:
I don't entirely understand our system as we live in Spain. Our central heat runs off of liquid oil like kerosene. We haven't had heat for several days.
Several technicians have come out and it still doesn't work. The languAge barrier makes it difficult to understand and we are relying on our landlord. It sounds as though the furnace is on and running, but there is still no heater air blowing into the house.
My first concern is if there is a potential health risk of fumes and secondly what are possible causes of still having no heat.
If your heat is by hot water and the boiler runs but you have no heat then a circulator or check valve is not working. If you have forced air heat then the furnace system must be shut down for safety. No heat can risk frozen pipes, cold, bronchitis.
2016/02/13 Felix said:
Hi my boiler has 2 zones, 1 is for my second floor apartment and the other is for the attic. The pipes past both zone valves are burning hot but the baseboards are not getting hot all. What might be wrong? Can you help?
Felix
Search InspectApedia for AIR BOUND RADIATORS as I suspect that the rads or in your case baseboards or piping to them are air bound
(Sept 15, 2015) Dan said:
I have an American Standard G5 Gas Boiler powering my Hydronic Heating System. There are two hot water lines running out of the top of the boiler - one goes to the expansion tank and the other to the house.
There is a third hot water line on the side of the device that is currently connected to the blow off valve. The pump is on the return side. I plan on updating a few components - valves, expansion tank, air scoop, etc. and I planned on switching the pump to the hot side. My question is, what are all three outlets and can I cap the expansion tank tube if I put the new expansion tank and pump in line with the line that runs to the house?
The pump will last longer on the cooler, return side of the boiler. See WHAT GOES WRONG WITH HEATING CIRCULATORS?
and also
See RELIEF VALVES - TP VALVES - home
(Oct 9, 2015) doug said:
my central boiler is leaking water in the fire box how can I patch it.
First you need to know exactly what's leaking; a badly cracked or rusted through boiler needs to be replaced. There are leak-stop products sold to buy time on a leaky boiler, not something I prefer to use.
(Oct 9, 2015) Ed said:
The domestic coil isn't producing reliable hot water. pipe coming out of coil is quite hot then goes thru temp. balancing valve and gets less warm as it continues on. We have had coil cleaned less than a year ago and to have someone come out again is costly. Any thing I can do on my own? Thanks
See TANKLESS COIL HOT WATER INCREASE
(Oct 19, 2015) sally said:
Making banging noises. so loud the kids cant sleep.what is going on?
Sally
Search InspectApedia.com for "BANGING RADIATOR NOISE" to read the causes and cures for this problem.
BANGING HEATING PIPES RADIATORS
(Oct 26, 2015) Anonymous said:
how to bleed air
(Dec 7, 2015) Paul Didier said:
There's noise in the pipe and we drained all the baseboards and the air valves , the thank has 22 psi or air and we still have noise in the pipe , what should I do ?
(Feb 13, 2016) Ggolden39@verizon.nen said:
Just had a new floor registers replaced in bathroom . should the system be bled of air?
(May 12, 2016) Anonymous said:
How to bleed air from a carrier boiler
Scott said:
Can I bleed 2 zones at once as the return lines from the basement and the first floor merge into one down pipe that only has a cutoff valve just before it enters into the boiler. The drain spigot is located just beyond where the 2 return lines meet and the nearest cutoff valve is the one just before it goes into the boiler some 5 feet down.
See
Paul / Anon:
Please see the articles beginning at inspectapedia.com/heat/Air_Bound_Heating_System.php for methods to get ALL of the air out of the system piping.
G Golden, yes bleed the air.
Anon: first check that the boiler has working air bleeder(s) installed as those should be doing the job for you. You can also bleed air from air-bound radiators or baseboards using individual bleeder valves. Search InspectApedia.com for AIR BOUND HEATING SYSTEM to read details.
Scott: whether you can bleed air out of one or two zones at once depends on where the air is located. Usually we need multiple air bleed points to successfully purge all of the air in an airbound heating sytsem.
(Nov 1, 2015) nick said:
why does my burnham v 85 hot water boiler start to fire up then stops or fires up and stops very quickly
(Dec 29, 2015) Glenn said:
The flame burns well for a few seconds and stops, no hot water goes through the pipes and no heat.
I already vacuumed off dust from thermostats.
When it worked both thermostats had to be on high to get heat.
Tere can be several causes of funny start-up, Nick, including a loose electrical wire or thermostat wire, a bad contact between the aquastat sensor and the side of the well into which it's inserted, or a bad primary control; I've also on occasion found improper control settings or a low limit control on an aquastat that could be benefit from being disabled when no tankless coil is installed.
See BOILER OPERATING PROBLEMS - chances are the burner needs cleanign, service, repair, a new nozzle, air bleeding etc. - without more details we won't know exactly what's wrong; even a loose wire can cause the trouble you cite.
Glenn
Is this gas or oil? If gas I suspect maybe a bad thermocouple;
Watch out: If oil heat is used, don't keep pushing the re-start or you may get an puffback explosion.
See BLEVE EXPLOSIONS
(Dec 29, 2015) Anonymous said:
This is a gas flame.
Mod said:
(Dec 29, 2015) (mod) said:
Try cleaning, adjusting the location of the sensor tip (in the flame) or just replace the thermocouple.
WATCH OUT a mistake can cause burns or a fatal gas explosion.
(Nov 4, 2015) Jenn said:
I work in an old school building and we use a boiler system for heat. We recently turned the heat on and now there is a lingering fish smell in my classroom. Should I be worried? What is causing this smell?
Gee I dunno. Assuming there's no actual leak of boiler water in your building, there may be contaminants on the radiators.
(Nov 7, 2015) Henri Desbiens said:
How do you stop the high pitch ringing?
Check for a bad motor bearing; also see BOILER NOISE SMOKE
First we need to find its source, Henri. Then we can understand what's happening and what repair is needed.
(Nov 15, 2015) Dennis said:
I have a 2006 burnham hot water boiler model 206NCL TE 12 . The problem I have is that it makes the basement like a sauna, I don't see any signs of a leak but you feel the steam coming out just under the electric damper. It fogs up the basement Windows in no time. I don't hear any thing that sounds like water hitting the flame. Could this be that the boiler has a slight crack in it or is there an adjustment to make?
Dannis
If steam is coming out of your hot water boiler then there is definitely a leak that needs to be found and fixed - ask your service tech for help; it may be necessary to remove all of the external jackets to see the leak, but she'll probably also take a quick look first in the combustion chamber. If you're lucky it's repairable.
Watch out: this situation is unsafe.
(Nov 18, 2015) Jimmy said:
When my boiler has been running for while (~30 minutes) to heat up on a cold morning it suddenly will blow steam and dirty water out of the bottom spigot. It seems like too much pressure is building up when it is asked to work for a long time? My boiler has 3 release valves. Can these be blocked and cause the pressure to build up? Other thought? Thanks
Jimmy
Watch out: "the bottom spigot" ? if you mean the boiler drain this sounds horrible - as if the boiler has run out of water and is about to be destroyed or blow up. Shut if off if you see this, and call for repair.
If there is some obscure leak high on the boiler that runs down inside of a jacket and comes out around the boiler drain that may be a different issue.
A TP valve can certainly become blocked, especially if it has been dripping or leaking over time.
That case would be extremely dangerous, risking a BLEVE explosion - search InspectApedia.com for BLEVE EXPLOSION to read details.
(Nov 29, 2015) Carol said:
I have had this problem for years and the plumber supposedly repaired it twice
Moderator: What repair was performed?
(Dec 7, 2015) Anonymous said:
any repairs have been done, only maintenance checked has been done
(Dec 16, 2015) mary said:
Blower will not come on
(Jan 3, 2016) Anonymous said:
how do I fix problems with the blower air in the boilers? Boiler serial number is 0802279013 and the name is Raypak. thank you
(Dec 16, 2015) (mod) said:
Mary as you use the word "blower" I am guessing you are referring to forced hot air heat and a furnace blower that won't start. If so see BLOWER FAN OPERATION & TESTING at inspectapedia.com/aircond/HVAC_Blower_Fan.php
If you mean an oil burner won't run search InspectApedia.com for OIL BURNER DIAGNOSIS for help.
Anon if you are asking about air in the boiler and piping, just search InspectApedia.com for AIRBOUND HEATING SYSTEM to see diagnosis and repair suggestions.
(Jan 6, 2016) carl said:
How do I turn down my hot water.
Carl,
Depending on the kind of water heater, electric, gas, oil, the controls may be in different locations.
Search InspectApedia for SET HOT WATER TEMPERATURE to see details in a series of articles that describe anti scald devices and other hot water controls.
For electric water heaters see inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Electric_Water_Heater_Repair.php where you will find photos and text beginning at "Electric Water Heater Internal Reset Switch & Temperature Setting Dial on the Thermostat"
(Jan 15, 2016) Alan said:
Non-Condensing Weil McLain GV4 series 2 is condensing all the time. Mo matter what the return water temperature is. Sometimes you can see water vapor come from the condensate drain along with the dripping water. Can you please shed a little information as to what's causing this?
Improper combustion air adjustment or inadequate combustion air can cause condensation as can a boiler leak.
Watch out: inadequate combustion air supply produces not just water but fatal carbon monoxide - see COMBUSTION AIR REQUIREMENTS
(Jan 16, 2016) Ron said:
Have a hot water heat system -question is on the Extrol tank/valve - the valve is leaking an oil like peoduct. In fact a lot of oil. What should I do?
Replace the valve or entire assembly; it doesn't contain oil, this is probably dirty heating water.
(Jan 19, 2016) Anonymous said:
Recently remodeled my upstairs bathroom and my radiant heat line had to be eliminated. I capped the lines. Would that affect the other rooms? When I did my diagnostics, my feed lines are temped at 120 and the return was 60-70 f. Which I'm assuming that I ruined the flow of the system. If I looped the system back together would it regulate the other rooms or would it not make a difference? Please help new baby will be here in a week.
If the lines you capped were in series with other heating system piping then you've stopped hot water flow and won't have heat. As I can't guess from so little detail, you need to ask for an on-site inspection by a trained radiant heat service tech.
(Jan 20, 2016) kris said:
my instant gas(bottle) hot water heater is turning off the burner after some time while running a shower or just a hot tap. I haven't been able to find anything specific to this in the archives. anyone able to suggest a diagnosis? thanks...
Your service tech will probably check for a failing thermocouple device at the burner
(Jan 26, 2016) John said:
Notice water on top of burner after heavy rain fall.
Water looks like it comes down the flue pipe notice splash around area
Ask your chimney sweep to inspect and repair the flue, chimney top, or rain cap; check also for surface water leaks into the chimney base if that's above the flue vent connector.
Watch out: what you describe is unsafe.
(Jan 28, 2016) Denny zufall said:
I have a hot water oil furnace with baseboard heat. There is a overflow pipe across the top and halfway down the back that is dripping about 1 soup can of water a day. Is this a concern. Thank you!
Watch out: what you describe is unsafe.
(Feb 1, 2016) Anonymous said:
I have hot water heating .I would like to know how to keep my upstairs cooler than my down stairs'
Anon if all of your home is on a single zone your heating company may be able to put your second floor on a separate heating zone with separate thermostat.
Also, cutting air movement up the stairwell can help, though hanging a blanket across the stairs is dangerous and thus not recommended;
(Feb 8, 2016) dave said:
Question .... church boiler... ALL thermostats are at or below 65. i have ten (10)zones
it's 75 degrees in church now . it's monday 02/08/16 and about 45 degrees outside does this come into play?
Check for a zone valve stuck or latched onpen or for thermostat wires shorted together calling for heat
(Feb 15, 2016) tayl874@aol.com said:
Can a R8182D1189 be feplaced with a moremordern aquastat
Yes. ,E.g. see AQUASTAT L7224U UNIVERSAL for an example of a universal replacement aquastat.
(Feb 15, 2016) Mike said:
What should the temperature be at the boiler mine only reaches 100 then shuts off house is cold
Mike, normal home heating boiler temperatures run usually between 180 and 200 F at the HIGH limit.
Please see BOILER PRESSURE & TEMPERATURE SETTINGS
23 Feb 2016 Paul said
Paraphrasing: thermostat calls for heat but no heat is coming out of one of my zones
Paul
Go to the zone valve and watch it while a helper turns the thermostat to well above room temp. If the zone valve does not open try jumping the two thermostat connections right at the zone valve. That will rule out a bad thermostat or thermostat wire. IF the valve still doesn't open you may be able to open it manually - if your valve includes a lever to do that - so that you can have heat while waiting for a zone valve motor replacement. If the actual valve body that lets the heating water flow is corroded stuck shut you'll have to replace the whole valve.
(Mar 16, 2016) Bob callanan said:
I have a burnham furnace with 1 circulator pump on feed side and have 4 zones each with circulater pump on return. When a zone called for heat return pumps would go on but within 3 min furnace would reach high temp kickout but return pumps would run endlessly with pipes on either side getting warm at best. Hot wired feed pump and everything is fine. So would it be the Honeywell l8148e relay or the burnham mixing vs3000 controller that has gone bad
Good question. Assuming no airbound piping it'd probably be one of the two problems you suggest, or perhaps a stuck flow control check valve. Or a zone valve may have lost power or have a seized motor.
See CHECK VALVES, HEATING SYSTEM
OR the system is air bound. See AIR-BOUND HEATING SYSTEMS - home
First check to see if the feed pump runs on a call for heat, ... without hot wiring it.
Then see ZONE VALVES, HEATING and also ZONE VALVE DIAGNOSTIC FAQ
(Mar 16, 2016) Anonymous said:
Ty for the reply but due to living with a wife and three kids, time (showers)was a key factor. So I grabbed my trusty multi meter and found c1/c2 were not getting power so went with relay being the problem. Got new 1 installed and every thing is good all in 4 hrs . Not bad for a Piledriver by trade.
(Mar 16, 2016) Bob callanan said:
As hot as the return circulators got those will probably be next on the list lol
Moderator reply:
Excellent going, Bob. You actually did what many repair techs will do to speed troubleshooting and lower the cost to the client: try replacing the most-suspect part, especially if it's not a costly one. Thanks for the follow-up as that will surely help other readers.
Sometimes we can get a clue that the problem is the relay by
1. visual inspection for burns and arcing
2. hearing buzzing at the relay, or chatter
3. observing that the relay does not pull in when it should
4. DANGEROUS: pressing on the relay to see if by manually closing it the system runs (also risking death by electrocution if you don't know what you're doing)
2016/05/24 Diann said:
Hi we own a home with a hot water/ radiant heat system. It has fin tube heat registers and 7 zones. We only use 5 zones the other two are for future expansion of the home. We rented this house out and just received it back from our tenant. Unfortunately we have what looks like smoke damage. It has been suggested that it's puff back from the boiler. We have had plumbers to inspect the boiler. We have been told we should just replace it at thousands of dollars. They are unaware of pass back as a real issue. They said it's impossible. I have found a number of articles that say it's rare but real. I am getting put off by them even after providing copies of articles. Am I wasting my time? Is it real? Thank you
Diann, see RADIANT HEAT - topic home, for a series of diagnostic and repair articles.
A puffback explosion can be caused by simple lack of maintenance, but if the explosion damaged the boiler it needs to be replaced. Ask the heating company to show you the actual trouble spots.
Be sure you have someone who actually is trained on heating boilers and understands the causes of puffbacks. If your plumbers aren't expert on this problem they may not be the best people to be working on your heating system.
Watch out: the system could be unsafe.
See also BLEVE EXPLOSIONS
2016/05/29 Pat said:
The house I just put an offer on has a boiler, however, it does not have traditional radiators. It pumps hot water to radiators inside the forced air system. I have never seen a system like this. What isint called and is it efficient? Also, I am planning on doing a renovation to the home and was wondering should I replace the system with a traditional forced air system?
Thanks for the question, Pat. You are describing a water-to-air heating system. Synonyms include "hydronic coil" and "fan convector" or "fan coil unit" heating system. Hot water heated by a heating boiler (a hydronic heating system) is circulated through a finned coil placed in an air handler or in some cases right in an air duct. Air is blow through the duct (or through the air handler) across the heated coil, thus heating the air as it passes by.
Your system may be a "blow through" (fan pushes air through the heating coil) or a more thermally-efficient "draw through" (fan sucks air thorugh the duct system and through the heating coil).
This approach to heating is often used when a designer wants to use the same duct system for distributing heated air or cooled air; In some designs the use of a a boiler-heated fan coil to warm air can be quite efficient. These systems are also often used as backup heat in a heat pump system.
Take a look at
FAN COIL & FAN CONVECTOR HEATERS & HYDRONIC COILS at
inspectapedia.com/heat/Fan_Convector_Heaters.php
(Aug 27, 2016) carole said:
My boiler is getting really hot on certain parts. There is a burning smell when is it lit that smells like burning vegetables and really smells up the house. I turned off the electricity and so the burners are off. Because of this I have no hot water. I'm concerned that if I turn the boiler back on that something will burn out or some part will be damaged. Help. Thanks Crole
Carole
Watch out: I would SHUT OFF the heating boiler right away. My concern is that damage in the combustion chamber, lost boiler insulation, or a burner malfunction may have made the heater unsafe.
Leave it off and ask your heating company to inspect and repair the system.
At BOILER OPERATING PROBLEMS at inspectapedia.com/heat/Boiler-Operating-Defects.php you can see a photo of a boiler with burn marks on its side jacket. We left this unit OFF pending repair.
IF there are heat marks or burn marks on the boiler exterior surfaces those are certain marks of a malfunction and an unsafe heater. If you want to send us photos for comment use the page top or bottom CONTACT link.
(Oct 1, 2016) Barb said:
We just installed a Westinghouse LP Combi unit. It's been working just fine for the past several days. However, this morning we tried to draw DHW and it was not hot. We went to look at the unit and it said ER16. We have tried all the troubleshooting listed and more but cannot get it to work properly. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Er:16
Operating Temperature
Sensor detects Water
Temperature Greater than
203o
F (95
oC)
Press the Power button to clear the Error Code.
If Error happens again:
1. Check if dip switch High Fire setting is ON. Switches 6 and 7 should be OFF for normal operation.
2. Check if CH inlet pipe is blocked. Ensure there is enough water flowing to the appliance.
3. Check Operating Temperature sensor at CH heat exchanger outlet. If resistance is zero, replace the
sensor.
4. If the problem persists, replace the main control.
Barb, before attempting to replace the control - as the instructions suggest - I'd ask for help from a trained service tech. She might see something that you didn't, and she might also review the safety of the system.
(Nov 11, 2016) Linda Chaney. said:
How do you get the float to work on hardy heater?
Sorry don't understand the question
(Nov 16, 2016) John said:
Late 1960-1970 Crane Sunnyday 102A Gas Boiler; cannot get the gas valve & circ. pump 2 run at same time- can make gas valve or pump work seperately
John, this sounds like a wiring error.
(Mar 3, 2016) tom said:
Boiler comes on but no heat in house, one zone system, pipes are hot at boiler but cool on other side of zone valve (zone valve is not wired)
- See more at: https://InspectAPedia.com/heat/Heating-Boiler-Diagnosis.php#FAQ
If you mean that you have a zone valve but it is not connected by wire to a Thermostat then you need to lock the valve into an open position.
Next check that the circulator pump is running. If the circulator is running in the zone valve is open and no other valves are closed and I suspect your system is airbound.
Search inspectapedia for "AIRBOUND HEATING SYSTEMS" to read repair procedures
(Mar 15, 2016) Sheehan said:
Every morning I have to go downstairs and tap the Cad Cell Relay Control box to get the burner to kick on. Same thing when I get home from work- not much of a tap either.
The thermostat is the Honeywell RTH2300 / RTH221 series and its set to be 63 at night and when I'm not home, and 70 from 5pm-11pm. I've been waking up to 55 degrees.
We just had the control box replaced last week and nothing has changed.
What could be the issue?
Tapping to get any electrical component working sounds to me as if there is a loose wire or failing connection or relay inside the control. If replacing the control box did not address the problem then the failure is probably not inside the control box itself but perhaps in a connection to it or a connection nearby - even the plug-in socket of the cad cell sensor itself.
You might call your oil company service manager and ask for help from an experienced, senior service technician. Keep us posted. What you find will help others.
Here is a copy of the Honeywell RTH2300/RTH221 Series Programmable Thermostat Owners Manual [PDF]
(Sept 7, 2016) Bob DeGroot said:
Hoyt water heater, serial number 93355, 75 gallon copper storage tank, has quit working. the thermocupler (sic?) was not the issue according to our plumber. The control mechanism itself may need to be repaired or rebuilt in order to fix the problem. Can I find this original piece, or can it be rebuilt?
Bob we discuss Hoyt water heaters a bit at inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Hoyt_Water_Heater_Age_Decode.php
Your question is posted on a home heating boiler article - perhaps because Google's search found "hot water heating boiler" or somesuch.
I'm not sure just what "control mechanism" we're looking for here. Hoyt water heaters went out of production in about 1989 or 1990. Many water heater parts are, however, generic an can be replaced by a generic control. Hoyt - at least the Hoyt water heater brand, was purchased by American Water Heaters.
So you might also find a suitable part from that company. Contact information for American water heaters is at inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Water-Heater-Age-Manuals.php
(Oct 25, 2016) MB said:
I have baseboard water heat with a boiler. The upstairs is working (2nd floor) but the main floor is not. the pipes get warm but wont produce heat. What could the problem be?
(Nov 22, 2016) Marc said:
Three pipes coming of boiler. Two are hot to the above the valves, one isn't. The one going to the first floor. They are cold on the first floor.
- See more at: https://InspectAPedia.com/heat/Heating-Boiler-Diagnosis.php#FAQ
So a pipe that's not hot when others are suggests that whatever zone that is, it's either not calling for heat, or its circulator isn't running, or the zone may be air bound.
Search Inspectapedia.com for AIRBOUND HEATING SYSTEMS as that's where I'd start
Check for a zone valve not opening
Check for broken or loose thermostat wires
(Nov 5, 2016) carmen said:
my gas boiler giving got water but no heat
Check for a bad thermostat wire, connection, or zone valve, or for airbound heating pipes. Search InspectApedia for AIR-BOUND HEATING SYSTEMS - home
(Nov 14, 2016) Joel said:
Have a Weil-McClain HE II boiler that wants to work intermittenly. Heating Tech has cleaned, replaced gas valve and control module. Still won't run as programmed. Sometimes will run all day, then shuts down overnight. Any suggestions as to what could cause this condition. Thanks.
Look for a loose or corroded wire or connection. Check for flue gas spillage.
(Nov 17, 2016) Jeeva said:
Hi,
The heater is pumping hot water to radiator when we set the thermostat to max(30degree) if we keep it at 25 nothing happens, the room is getting very cold. Could you tell me what could be the issue?
gary spinda said:
1st floor radiators are not as hot as 2nd. floor radiatore
See COLD HEATING RADIATOR REPAIR (hot water / hydronic heat)
(Nov 25, 2016) Anonymous said:
Can't get pressure up to where it calls for
Check the boiler temperature when the heating system is cold. The minimum normal residential hot water heating system boiler temperature is typically about 12 PSI. if your boiler is below that starting pressure when cold there may be a problem with your water feed / pressure reducing valve.
(Dec 9, 2016) randy said:
can I get parts for a aquastat l8148e
Randy
Check with your local plumbing and heater supplier. A few sell parts such as a replaceable relay. Usually a service technician installs a whole new control. Beware that modifying a control could make it unsafe.
Try a universal control replacement. See AQUASTAT L7224U UNIVERSAL
(Dec 11, 2016) Wmig said:
I have a NG hot water baseboard heating system in a split level 1350sqft house. My problem is the boiler is not keeping up the temperature set on the thermostats. The Thermostat on the second floor will be set at 71 and the temp dropped to 66 before the boiler fired. The first floor thermostat was set at 73 and the temp. dropped to 72 there.
This occurred at the same time. The thermostats were calling for the boiler to fire the entire time because the zone valves were open the entire time. I changed the electronic gas valve per the recommendation of the heating company that I had come troubleshoot my system last winter.
The water pump circulator runs the entire time while the thermostats are calling for heat as well. It seems to me that the circuit that tells the boiler to light or ignite isn't transmitting correctly. Thanks to anyone in advance for their expertise.
If the boiler temperature is dropping below the burner cut-on temp AND there is a call for heat AND the boiler doesn't turn on then the AQUASTAT CONTROLS control or its temperature sensor needs repair or replacement.
But first check the AQUASTAT HI LO DIFF SETTINGS
(Dec 20, 2016) Jamie said:
I have a New Yorker boiler it fires up fine to heat the water but when I turn up the thermostat to heat the house it just clicks. I replaced the thermostat turned it up and it turned the heater on but only ran for a couple minutes then turned off. Have plenty of oil and is serviced yearly any suggestions
Check the CIRCULATOR PUMP RELAYS & OTHER CONTROLS
(Dec 25, 2016) Peter Chechopoulos said:
I have had no heat for seven days. I have an old Arco gas burning Boiler No. 11, American Radiator Company, W 0811G 1 BJ with a Bell & Gossett booster water pump. I called the company and went to their distributor with the old pump which I had removed and bought and installed their new recommended pump according to their instructions.
I also had an old White Rogers Thermostat, and bought and replaced it with an new Honeywell Thermostat, as per the company's telephone tech instructions. When I first replaced the new booster water pump and restarted the system, the Arco Gas Burning fired up, but only ran for five to ten minutes and then shut down again. I next opened the water fill valves on all my homes radiators and bleed the air from each one, until water came out. Next, I turned up the new thermostat to 90 degrees and waited for something to happen. Nothing happened. The boiled did not fire-up and the radiators remained cold.
I can not afford to have a professional come in to trouble shot and repair this heating system. CAN ANY KIND SOUL, ON THIS CHRISTMAS DAY ADVISE AND OLD MAN WHAT TO DO NEXT TO GET HEAT BACK INTO MY HOME. THANKING YOU IN ADVANCE.
Peter,
I'm as confused as you. It's understandable, and sometimes it works to just try swapping some parts, but sometimes we discover, as you seem to have found, that the parts being replaced are not finding nor fixing the trouble. I suspect the problem is in the burner itself - needing cleaning and perhaps a new nozzle, fuel screen, fuel filter. - See more at: https://InspectAPedia.com/heat/Heating-Boiler-Diagnosis.php#FAQ
the flame in my boiler is yellow is this correct
A gas boiler yellow flame is UNSAFE.
See GAS BURNER FLAME & NOISE DEFECTS
An oil burner yellow flame with no smoke is normal.
(Feb 21, 2016) Paul said:
We have a Bryant boiler, it has worked for years, for the last 2 days it is heating up but not circulating through the pipes for heat,
I'm thinking that the pump isnt working and it looks like the tap above it has a slight drip and is all green, thinking that it might have blown the motor, need help... need HEAT!
This is Paul again with the Bryany boiler, my email is birdseyeview@sbcglobal.net
Check the circulator; if it is running either it has a damaged impeller or I suspect that your heating system piping is air bound. Search InspectApedia.com for AIRBOUND HEATING SYSTEM for details
If your system uses a typical flow-control check valve at the boiler, a device that prevents hot water from circulating by convection when the circulator is not running, and if the problem is found to be the circulator, you can get heat temporarily, though it will rise more slowly, by placing the FLO-CONTROL valve in the OPEN position.
Search InspectApedia for CHECK VALVES, HEATING SYSTEM or see inspectapedia.com/heat/Check_Valves_Heat.php for details.
Does my Burnham residential boiler need annual service. It worked fine last season. - Dick 9/19/11
Yes, Dick, there is no Santa Claus; your heating boiler needs annual service not only to assure safe, reliable operation, but because without an annual cleaning, particularly for oil fired heating boilers, my experience is that the cost of operating the equipment will be significantly greater - the improvement in operating efficiency of an oil fired heating boiler following annual cleaning and adjustment can be significant - I've seen a 33% reduction in operating cost following cleaning and adjusting a dirty oil fired boiler or furnace.
I have a 3 year old Peerless WV-DV boiler, 1 zone (thermostat), 2 circulator pumps, no valves, serviced annually. This year when turning thermostat up the boiler refused to come on. The 20 amp circuit breaker had tripped. It wouldn't reset, kept tripping immediately. I turned the power switch off at the boiler, reset the breaker, turned the power back on at boiler, turned thermostat up and boiler came on normally.
I then, over the course of an hour, turned thermostat up and down, each time boiler shut off and came back on normally. Then is got warm here for a few days, didn't use. When it got cold again, same problem, I had to turn off power at boiler, reset breaker, turn power back on at boiler, then boiler works. I also replaced the breaker in case that was a problem. So what is the issue here? Any help would be appreciated. - Scott Moberg 10/14/11
Scott:
It sounds as if there is either a wiring short circuit or an electric motor (perhaps on the burner) that was seized. A seized motor can draw high amps and trip the breaker. You can sometimes get the motor running again by repeated attempts or by adding an electric motor hard start capacitor, but on an oil burner I'd expect it's time to replace the motor.
having a problem with a hot water recirculating loop from boiler to storage tank with tempering valve to building. not able to maintain proper temp. any ideas? - Vivek 10.26/11
Vivek,
If the hot water recirculating loop (I am guessing you mean domestic hot water for washing and bathing, not a building heating system) is not maintaining the required temperature I'd check in this order:
- is this a change in behavior or has it always been this way. If it's a new condition I'd look for a change in hot water use or a failure of a tempering valve (or someone messed with the valve) or a change in the water heater temperature settings
- if the problem has always been there, to the above I'd add a check for missing insulation on the water piping
Would like to know the age of a National U.S. Radiator boiler, Boiler # 109-5. It is a five section boiler, with Crane forged into the sections. Only can see the two end section numbers, F10900201 and F10900301. Just curious, thanks for any help. - Gary Forbes 11/5/11
Gary, see AGE of HEATERS, BOILERS, FURNACES (article links listed at the ARTICLE INDEX the bottom of this article ) for tables, charts, and links to books that give means to decode the age of heating and cooling equipment using the model and serial number.
its just the upper floor and i don't have bleeder valves at the base board the expansion tank at the boiler is hard to tell how full it is - Luke 11/10/11
Luke, at AIRBOUND HEAT SYSTEM REPAIR by WATER FEED VALVE we describe a variety of ways to get air out of an air-bound hot water heating system.
are there any books on troubleshooting residential boilers & how to wire them - Kevin 1/12/12
Kevin, at References, related articles we list a variety of books on heating system installation & troubleshooting; when I was servicing heating systems, in addition to attending trade school for absolutely-required practical knowledge and theory, I found too that quite a few manufacturers gave away free booklets and pamphlets with excellent detail about their equipment. And don't forget to check the installation and service manual for the specific equipment you are examining.
I have radiated heat at night tub gurgles and boiler makes noise - Jeff 10/8/12
Jeff, gurgling in hot water heating lines is often due to air in the piping. Check for a leak and for an air purging device that is not working.
(Oct 5, 2014) Elizabeth said:
Smoke stains are being left on the bottom of the unit where yu open to light the pilot - I assume that means it needs cleaning inside. Is this something a homeowner can do themselves?
Elizabeth
Watch out: if your boiler is gas fired you are describing an unsafe condition that could produce fatal carbon monoxide gas. If that's the fuel you're using I'd shut off the system and ask for inspection and repair by a licensed plumbing and heating contrator.
This is not a homeowner repair job.
(Oct 11, 2014) Regine said:
Moved in a renovated/insulated/new thermal windows home in April Southern Maine. Home has boiler with tankless water heating system+cast iron radiators. Boiler runs well, no problem.
Upon maintenance "tankless coil plate was found to be in poor shape, but does not leak" and we noted having use "lots of oil" during summer.
Want to wait until next March to change the boiler. In the meantime we would like to install a separate electric water system and remove the water heating function off the boiler by sealing/welding permanently the tankless coil: is this feasible? would any heating system contractors do this?
We have read that it is possible to weld a coil patch plate over rust to save a good boiler, then switch to either indirect tank or standalone unit.
(Nov 10, 2014) Super X said:
I have a burnham boiler , installed in 1996. A few yrs ago, I had no heat. A tech came out and opened something to get heat, since then, when its warm out I get overheated, and underheated. when warmer outside Stat set at 65 and temp at 80.
when cold outside stat set at 70 and no more than 60 temp. so I got tired of paying for service calls and, have been manually adjusting water temp to compensate for outside temp.
CORRECTION ..... Underheated when cold out, overheated when warmer
(Nov 20, 2014) merkraw said:
My pipes were stolen from my heater. My question is can i replace pipes to my boiler with pex or pvc?
Merk
Yes - just check the temperature rating before buying any plastic piping .
(Jan 1, 2015) Anonymous said:
I can hear the water in my pipes trickling around the room. I never heard this before and was wondering is this a sign of something going bad. I have a hot water heating system that is about 18 yrs old. I changed the pump 2 yrs ago and its been working fine.I have heat just worried about hearing the water flowing in the pipes
Chances are that means there is air in your heating system.
See AIRBOUND HEAT SYSTEM REPAIR by WATER FEED VALVE
(Jan 3, 2015) bob e said:
I have a closed system hot water heat. Had a circulation pump installed and i started to get a loud bang in my system every so often. Tech couldn't figure it out. My boiler was 18 yrs. old and i had it replaced, but I still have that problem. sometimes it makes a slight whistling noise before the band. other times not. The system has been bled.
25 January 2015 Anonymous said:
My hot water boiler is banging at 12 pound and above.
Bob
First confirm that the noise is in the water circulating system not the burner itself - the latter can be quite dangerous and may presage a puffback if it's oil or a gas explosion if it's gas fuel and there's a leak or a defective gas control valve.
water hammer can also be the trouble you are experiencing - see inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Water_Hammer_Noise.php
Some modern circulators or zone valves can shut off water rather abruptly.
Anon and Bob:
Anon please see our guide on dealing with banging pipe noises at
inspectapedia.com/heat/Banging_Pipes_Radiators.php
where several types of banging heating pipe noises and causes and cures are discussed.
Watch out: Also see PUFFBACKS, OIL BURNER
28 Jan 2015 Scott said:
I have a forced hot water system. if i shut the water off at the main can the system still run if I close the shutoff where it feeds into the system.
Scott, you can shut off all water and the boiler will run - presuming this is NOT a steam boiler - that is, it will run just fine AS LONG AS there are NO LEAKS in the entire system.
A hot water boiler that has a small leak could be ultimately damaged if the burner fires while boiler water is low or lost completely - risking even an explosion and severe damage or injury. Some boilers include a low-water cutoff safety control to protect against this hazard.
If your boiler is a steam boiler it needs a regular water supply.
If your boiler is a hot water (hydronic) heating system and has a low water cutoff then you can run it with water turned off, risking loss of heat but at least protected from a boiler explosion (as long as the LWCO works).
Otherwise you can more safely keep heat on while turning other water in the building off by making sure that you do not turn off the boiler's water supply.
See details at WINTERIZE - HEAT ON PROCEDURE
(Feb 20, 2015) James Saunders said:
I think my boiler is frozen up, what can I do, because it shut down everything so I don't have any heat.
James, if the boiler is literally frozen you'll need another heat source to thaw it out, followed by fixing leaks or if it burst, unfortunately it'll probably need replacement. This is a job for your heating service company.
But first see RESET SWITCH, PRIMARY CONTROL
(Mar 14, 2015) Mike said:
How can I have great hot water in the bathroom sink but only lukewarm or cold water in the shower which is next to the sink?
Mike,
Is there an anti scald device on the shower?
Check for a blockage in the hot water piping and stop valve at the shower
(Mar 28, 2015) thomas tate said:
i looked on the inside of the furnac and there is a piece of the fire wall laying on the inside is there any danger and can it wait until Monday to call someone
Thomas
Watch out: Sorry but yes what you described is unsafe - the risk is that the burner burns through the boiler wall and starts a fire in your home.
Leave the system OFF
(Mar 28, 2015) Dean said:
Have 3 zones on my boiler. The first one is not working. Have hot water and heat to the other 2.
x
(Mar 28, 2015) Anonymous said:
whe installing nipples back in water jacket do you need to use some kind of sealent on them
Anon
It depends on the boiler brand, model, design. Some push nipples use gaskets. Tell us your boiler brand and model and we can help find the assembly instructions if you don't have them.
22 May 2015 Kevin said:
Have a combi boiler, domestic works great, but when heating, the boiler shows the main pump is on, the demand for hest is on, but gas input valve is at 0. Im thinking the controller is faulty, but need some reassurance
Kevin
Before replacing the gas regulator at the appliance I'd check: thermostat connections, thermocouple (if one is used), spill sensors, flue operation, or other safety controls to be sure that the valve is not being shut down for safety reasons.
...
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