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Damaged Hardieplank siding - repair using bondo ? (C)Shane at InspectApedia.comFiber Cement Siding Repair FAQs
Q&A on how to repair fiber cement siding by James Hardie & other manufacturers

  • POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about the cause & cure of butt joint gaps in fiber-cement siding & about fiber cement siding installation

Fiber cement siding repair questions & answers:

FAQs about how to repair damaged, loose, broken, bubbling, or peeling fiber cement siding on buildings.

This article series describes repair procedures for cosmetic or functional siding issues that may arise such as loose siding, wind-damaged siding, siding paint or coating failures, and siding gaps, especially gaps at fiber cement siding butt joints where lap siding is installed.

Our page top photo shows loose and improperly installed fiber cement siding on a New York home.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?

Q&A on Repair Fiber Cement Siding

Gaps at butt joints of HardiePlank siding on an 8-year-old home (C) Daniel Friedman

Recent questions & answers about repairing or patching fiber cement siding posted originally

at SIDING, FIBER CEMENT BOARD REPAIRS

On 2023-09-16 by InspectApedia DF (mod) - do we replace bad Hardie Plank fiber cement siding before painting

@Sally McLellan,

I say most most house painters are not into replacing siding, they're painters not general contractors and not siding contractors.

I say that if the painters don't want to remove boards absolutely don't ask them to do so or you'll be sorry.

and

I explain that I cannot assess the "caulk and paint" versus "replace" cracked Hardie board siding for which I haven't any information and that I've never seen.

We need first, BEFORE spending on a costly house-painting job,

1. to understand what damage is present, what caused it, and what, if any, repairs are needed

2. that any painting planned after step 1 is compatible with the siding material

3. that a successful paint job requires three steps: prepare, prepare, prepare - I'm quoting housepainters who spoke at a conference I once ran on this question. What they meant was that no matter how wonderful is the paint you choose and no matter how magnificently it is applied to the building, if the surface is not properly prepared the paint job will have a short life.

See JAMES HARDIEPLANK® FC SIDING

and also take a look at the other fiber cement siding defect inspection, diagnosis, and repair articles in the Recommended Articles list on this page.

AND in case that's not enough

be sure to check out some of the causes of paint job failure at

PAINT FAILURE, DIAGNOSIS, CURE, PREVENTION

again to equip you to negotiate with your painters -

Watch out: don't tell them everything you've read or you'll scare them off of the job entirely.

If you have the stomach for that you'll be well equipped to talk with your painters and to proceed.

On 2023-09-16 by Sally McLellan

I am having my house painted and there are many cracks in the Hardie board siding. Both prospective painters say too much damage is caused by replacing individual planks so the cracks should just be caulked.

But one painter suggests replacing all the planks on the front of the house while the other says that is an unnecessary expense that doesn't benefit the house or its value in any way. What say you?

On 2020-11-14 by danjoefriedman (mod) - pressure washing broke part of our Hardie Plank siding

I'd be tempted to use the broken piece, fearing still worse damage trying to replace the whole board.

On 2020-11-14 by Mark Melnick

We just had our house pressure washed and a small piece of hardie plank was broken. It is a clean break - so we’re wondering if we can put the piece back and use a cementitious filler OR do we have to replace the entire board?

On 2020-03-12 by danjoefriedman (mod) - thinking of Bondo auto body compound for siding repairs?

Having done my share of Bondo and then seeing the bundle Fallout and not be durable, I have to say that my preference would be to find a suitable siding board and use it to replace the areas of damaged material after which I would paint to match.

Even if the texture is slightly different you may find that some more durable repair. You also want to be alert for evidence that they have been leaks into the wall cavity. Such areas need further exploration for rot insect damage or mold.

It looks as if the siding in your photo is close to a lower roof surface; perhaps rain splash-up from water falling off of a roof edge above is contributing to this damage - so let's diagnose and address that concern first.

On 2020-03-11 by Shane R.

Damaged Hardieplank siding - repair using bondo ? (C)Shane at InspectApedia.com

My house was built in 1969 and has the old 14" wide hardiplank siding, which they don't make anymore. One side of the house doesn't receive any sun and so I'm now battling some rot due to moisture (see pic). Anyone have a suggestion for repairing this kind of rot?

Was thinking of some kind of bondo, but just sure if it would hold up well being spread out this thin over such an area. All suggestions are greatly appreciated.

On 2019-05-19 by danjoefriedman (mod) - possible repairs for damaged James Hardie Hardieboard fiber cement siding

Elaine I'd need to see at the least some sharp photos of the damage. You may be able to use a cemetious patch (on fiber cement siding I'd use a thinset mortar) or you may need to replace siding sections - ... - it depends on the extent of damage and its cause and also on the probability that there is leak, rot, or insect damage behind the exterior siding itself.

1. For small gouges and small holes in FC siding,

particularly where the fiber cement siding repair patch will be hidden, I'd use a trowel-on patching compound designed for fiber cement and rated for exterior use.
Clean the damage area, remove loose surface debris, let the area dry, apply the patching compound.

Very small areas of damage can be filled with an exterior caulk or sealant like the DAP product I'll illustrate below.

2. For larger areas of damage up to about 3" in diameter in fiber cement siding, I

use a hole saw to cut out the damage, use a hole saw to prepare a repair plug, orient the plug so that the textured surface matches the surrounding fiber cement board, and glue it in place with a color-matched patching compound like DAP's product (below) or with a gray cement-type mortar-matched exterior sealant. There will be a small ring of sealant that remains visible equal to the exterior diameter of the hole saw bit itself.

3. For still larger areas of damage or where you want to avoid any cosmetic evidence of the repair to badly-damaged fiber cement siding boards,

you may need to remove and replace a section of fiber cement siding and to replace it with a matching new FC siding board segment. If the exterior was painted you may need to repaint the wall - though it's preferable to retain the factory applied colors on siding when possible.

Example: DAP Platinum Patch Exterior Filler can be used.

Dap's description: DAP Platinum Patch Advanced Exterior Filler is formulated with innovative WEATHER MAX Technology for long-lasting, all weather protection.

Platinum Patch provides exceptional weatherproof protection that prevents discoloration, cracking and crumbling. The tough hydrophobic surface provides a waterproof repair that won't swell, soften, blister or breakdown and it is mold, mildew & algae resistant making it perfect for areas with continuous exposure to the elements. It has strong multi-material adhesion to tough porous and non-porous materials making it ideal for exterior applications such as the installation, finishing or repairing of fiber cement siding, PVC trim board, vinyl siding, metal, composite, concrete, brick, wood and more.

Platinum Patch creates a strong, durable bond that won't crack or lose adhesion over time and is also is sandable, paintable, easy water clean-up and low in odor.

Exterior/Interior use.


DAP Exterior siding patch - cited & discussed at inspectApedia.com as possible repair for fiber cement siding

Additional fiber cement siding patching compounds and products include

Sika's Acrylic Concrete Patch - a trowel-on patching compound.

Other cementious sealer products and brands that can work include

DAP's ElastoPatch (though IMO Platinum Patch is a better choice for fiber cement siding)

Drylok's FastPlug

Quikcrete's Hydraulic Cement

UGL DryLok Masonry Filler (comes in a caulk-gun tube)

Zinsser WaterTite hydraulic cement

Rutland's EZ-Spread fiberglass stove cement adhesive can be used to glue-in a cut-out patch made from a piece of fiber cement siding board though this isn't necessary as most exterior sealants would bond suitably; IMO UGL DryLok Masonry Filler would be a better choice.

Watch out: do not caulk or seal butt joints of siding that's already installed. Not only are you likely to make an ugly mess of the siding but siding expansion under temperature or moisture up-take may result in buckling.
UGL DRYLOK crack filler that might work on some fiber cement siding damage cracks - cited & discussed at InspectApedia.com

On 2019-05-18 by Elaine - how do we repair eroded areas on James Hardie cement fibre board siding

We have a couple of eroded areas on James Hardie cement fibre board siding where deck posts were attached, how do we repair these areas?
Thank You

Question: how to repair bubbles & holes on the HardieBoard Siding on my home

2017/04/04 Norris said:

I have a hardy board at each corner of our front porch. Looks like a 1x6 by 8 long. Both pieces have numerous bubbles opening up and showing open holes on the face and the sides. House is 10 yrs old. What would be the best patch / repair treatment? Thank you

Reply:

Norris:

Discussing their HardieZone HZ10 siding Hardie says:

Repair or Patching Fiber Cement Board Siding & James Hardie's Warranty Coverage

Dents, chips, cracks and other minor surface damage in James Hardie siding and trim products can be filled with cementitious patching compound. Refer to manufacturer recommendations for products that are compatible with fiber cement.

For small areas of damage you can use a sealant/caulk (preferably one designed for cement repairs) but then you will have to paint those areas of repair to match the original color.

OPINION: Clean out the area of damage, removing loose material but trying not to gouge into the boards. For larger areas I prefer to use a cement (or "cementious") patching compound, sold in plastic tubs or in tubes that can be used in a caulking gun.

If your boards include a pattern such as a wood grain, small areas of repair can be tooled to match the surrounding lines with a putty knife; for larger areas of repair some owners have tried making a clay impression of nearby surfaces to press into the patch.

Hardie sells touch-up paint that can match the color of your HardyBoard siding.

Boards that are actually broken away will need to be cut out and replaced.

Here is what James Hardie says about repairs to their siding product:

James Hardie [JH] does not approve use of JH approved color matched caulk, other caulking materials or cementitious patching compounds to touch up nail heads, nail holes, dents, chips, cracks or other minor surface blemishes on JH products with ColorPlus® Technology.

Warranty Coverage by James Hardie

James Hardie routinely receives inquiries from consumers and builders regarding the use of paint as touch-up on ColorPlus products. These inquiries sometimes include requests that James Hardie provide warranty coverage to remediate problems associated with paints, and other non-approved materials as touch-ups.

James Hardie’s warranty provides coverage for defects in materials and workmanship on ColorPlus products and its Touchup only. It does not warrant, in any respect, the appearance or performance of any third party coatings or finishes, including paint, used as touch-up and third party touch-up paints used on ColorPlus products. - Touch-Up Notice to Contractors and Consumers

On 2017-02-07 by (mod) re: did previous siding repairs lead to a loose board?

Possibly, Annette & Bill, one would need to take a closer look at the repair. Indeed to remove and replace a lower siding board one needs to cut the nails through the lower end of the board above.

On 2017-02-07 by Annette & Bill

Before we purchased our home, we noticed loose siding on the lower side of our home and asked the Seller to have repaired. Now 8 months later, siding at the top of the same side of the house has fallen off. Does this mean that the earlier repair loosened the upper piece?

On 2016-11-09 by mod) re: gluing house wrap?

Nice idea WT. No real criticism but

Comment: trying to glue to house-wrap may not give secure results if the board simply pulls away the house wrap too.

Did you tape down the siding temporarily to allow the adhesive to bond?

On 2016-11-06 16:36:57.911742 by wtmgeo

I encountered the same issue as described above with siding ends on the gable popping out. I used polyurethane construction adhesive to hold it down. Seems to work like a charm and looks much better than face nailing. Criticisms?

On 2016-11-01 by Anonymous re: I'd use stainless ring-shanked siding nails or color-coated ring-shank siding nails that are as close as possible to the siding color.

Scot

To fasten down any board type siding without removing and replacing (working from bottom-up) you'll want to follow the manufacturer's face-nailing recommendations such as are used at trim where nails are not covered by the next siding course.

Typically I'd use stainless ring-shanked siding nails or color-coated ring-shank siding nails that are as close as possible to the siding color. Nail the head flush-tight but not recessed into the siding to minimize damage.

On 2016-11-01 by SCOT

My James Hardie Board siding came loose during a high wind storm. It is in the middle of the wall. How can I refasten it down. It is top nailed.

On 2016-09-17 by mod) re: how do I repair damage to a fiber cement wall?

Felix, you need to remove either the entire panel that was damaged and then replace it, or you may, taking dust control and personal protection measures, set a carbide-blade circular saw to cut just through the depth of the panel, not into building framing, snap a chalk line or use a strait edge to mark the area of damage to be cut out - taking care to cut the sides to end at the middle of wall framing studs.

With the cut section removed (nail removal is discussed in the article above) you'll need to custom cut and fit a replacement panel of matching fiber cement panel board.

Along the upper edge of the fiber cement panel use Z-flashing to prevent leaks into the wall cavity.
Seal the panel sides to the studs with exterior-rateed sealant-caulk when you set the panel in place.
If necessary, pre-drill nailing holes at the panel edges to avoid breaking it in that location.

On 2016-09-17 by Felix Cruz

I have a vertically installed fiber cement exterior wall. Hit by a riding mower a section, just above ground, cracked and a piece broke off. At another location, likewise just above ground, another hit and the section cracked showing pieces still clinging to the wall.

How do I repair the damage?

Felix Cruz

On 2016-09-12 by mod) - using a masonry blade set to cut through fiber cement siding

Ouch.

Yes using a masonry blade set to cut through siding but not into the metal flashing BUT you're creating a horrible dusty mess; even if your newer siding doesn't contain asbestos its dust may be harmful to breathe including containing silica and I don't know what else.

Why are we contemplating this cut? Siding bottom contacting a poorly-drained surface damaging siding?

Let's be sure the flashing extends a couple of inches above the cut line before making the cut.
And let's see that the saw you're using can fit into the space and cut where you want to cut, using a guide to give a straight cut.

And let's wear appropriate protective gear: eyes, respirator, gloves;

And perhaps use a vacuum or HEPA vac for dust control.

On 2016-09-12 by ron

A 6 year old house has the fiber cement siding abutting the flashing. This goes all around the house. Can we take a saw and cut a 1/4" out of the bottom plank?

On 2016-07-01 by mod) re: corner trim board failures

We need to know more accurately what the corner trim board product actually was - so that you can match it accurately, Charlene. Do you know who installed your siding to ask?

Also I've not seen foam-based trim used at corners for cement board lap siding installations; but there are some polyurethane foam trim products widely sold.

On 2016-07-01 by Charlene Bielakowski

I have a home with the cement board was applied. The siding is okay in most spots except for the garage which I noted the comments to repair it. However, the problem we have is with the corners which are a Styrofoam board and the likes of a nasty squirrel.

The squirrel has chewed the corners and I need to figure out what to replace it with. can anyone tell me what can be used that will not be chewed by this squirrel?

On 2016-06-10 y Screwed

Be very very careful who does your install. My entire house is a wreck due to a contractor who said he knew what he was doing and did not. Now I have a rear of and replace situation.

On 2016-05-30 by mod) re: replacing Hardieplank boards close to the ground

Yeah it's tricky. If you pry a rigid material it'll break. But often you can use a thin flat prybar blade driven up between the planks at the nail location to cut the nails.

On 2016-05-27 by Mark

I have a few hardiplank boards about 5' above the ground that have holes (thanks to my son's hockey pucks). I need to replace those. The boards are face nailed. How do I remove them when they are above and below boards they have been nailed to? Thanks.

On 2016-04-18 by mod) re: using adhesive on fiber cement siding repairs?

Ron:

Loctite's "Power Grab" construction adhesive is not likely to perform well in an effort to glue loose fiber cement siding boards, because those boards, in a normal installation, are nailed to building sheathing and framing that have first been covered with housewrap.

You'd be gluing the boards to housewrap, not to the structure. Once glued to housewrap, whatever forces are causing a fiber cement board to move, buckle, or respond even to changes in temperature and moisture, are being restrained by the glue against the housewrap fabric. But the housewrap itself is being restrained just by some staples. Hardly much resistance there.

I would want to

1. understand the underlying cause of loose siding, as knowing the cause may dictate the solution

2. be sure that any open butt joints are back-flashed

3. be sure that required clearance gaps and sealant were used at vertical abutments such as at window trim, door trim, and building corners

4. then consider adding fasteners where needed, choosing a fastener recommended by the manufacturer.

On 2016-04-18 by Ron

I'm considering options for securing loose hardiplank on our home built in 2006. It seems that one option would be to use exterior grade "power grab". I'm wondering, though - would that prevent any seasonal movement of the hardiplank and possibly cause cracking of the siding? Thanks for any help you can give me.

On 2016-04-13 by mod) re: using metal flashing under cracks and gaps in fiber cement siding boards

Ward,

I would certainly use metal flashing behind cracks across a fiber-cement siding board, just as should have been done at end-butt-joints between boards on long walls. That's what assures that there won't be leaks behind the siding. The sealant is a cosmetic addition that might improve the look if you keep the sealant only *in* the cracks rather than blobbing it on the board surfaces.

On 2016-04-13 by Anonymous

Thanks danjoefriedman, I can get the flashing way up there - I was planning on it not to be visible but if it is unsightly I will not use it - I guess it may push the board out a bit even if it can't be seen. I like the idea of color matched sealant. I will take my stuff back and look into that. Thankfully I know the color! Thanks a lot.

On 2016-04-12 by mod) re: keeping water out of a fiber cement wall

Ward: your flashing repair will keep water out of the wall provided you get that back-flashing all the way up to beneath the bottom of the next-higher boards. It may not look beautiful.

Your sealing repair using thin-set cement is not likely to wear as well as a more flexible color-matched sealant.

On 2016-04-12 by Ward

My cracks are from the kids kicking a soccer or basketball at the house. About three areas with cracks. Luckily I've stopped that practice!

I plan to slip sheet metal flashing up behind cracks, use a straw to get a dab of No More Nails on each side of the cracks to prevent board flex at the cracks, to massage silicone into the crack to make as waterproof as possible, to then trowel some thin set concrete over the cracks to hide them and then to sand and paint the existing color. Am I on the right track! Any expert advice would be appreciated. Ward

On 2015-12-31 by mod) re: who is responsible for construction defects in a new home?

Steve I should have added that regarding your assumption that the builder of a spec home is not responsible for construction defects, that depends in part on where you live. For example New York and some other states have a New Home Warranty Law.

It would raise an orange flag: someone has done non-standard work on nailing siding - we may not know why. When I see any work that does not follow industry or manufacturer recommended practices it makes me worry not just about what was wrong at the point I'm examining, but what other DIY work was done by someone at the property: Im on alert for other possible snafus.

Document what you did and why - that may help resolve questions.

Question: fix for bowed fiber cement siding

(Dec 11, 2014) ran23 said:
The cement fiber siding (approx 13 yrs old, Pacific NorthWest), one piece is bowed out in the center. NO water damage or insect, or leaks present. Can I screw it back down? this is up toward gable highth.

Reply:

Ran

Press gently on the siding. If it flattens into plavpce yo can try through screwing it to a stud or to,the building sheathing f the sharp earthing is plywood. Don't let the screw head cut nor break the siding as will happenif the siding is warped or significantly bent. You may need to Pre drill a pilot hole. Older fiber cement siding may contain asbestos so confirm its age and type before drilling or cutting.

Question: chalky fiber cement siding joints

(Oct 13, 2015) Tim said:
Have a new home built and the contractor used cement board lap siding in a clay color. In certain light some of the joints look chalky colored 4-6". I first thought it might be a joint where it was cut and painted but after talking to the installer he said they were factory edges. Not sure if builder is going to want to paint the boards that are affected or replace.The home is only 1 month old. What's your opinion of what I should allow them to do. It's not James Hardie but whatever was cheap. Odd that all the affected boards and joints are in the same area.

Reply:

Tim I don't quite understand the issue; you can find an email at our page bottom CONTACT link if you want to send some photos.

Question: buckling siding, missing back flashing, improper fasteners: how to repair my fiber cement siding

(Dec 16, 2015) Steve said:
First, thanks for the wealth of knowledge on these concerns with fiber cement products in one location. My questions/comments revolve around the use of fasteners and butt joint maintenance on an existing home under 3 years of age.

Regarding dealing with improper fastener and back flashing installation as the source of both loose planks and buckling, although it is not the recommended installation practice, would it be advisable to ensure the proper securing of the boards to studs by face nailing the entire home with the appropriate fasteners to ensure the proper fastening and unify the nail procedure to aid the weathering of the certainteed boards over it's remaining life span?

This is especially a relevant question as to properly securing siding repairs (cracked/damaged boards), as blind nailing is not an option without removing boards to access the repairs, only face nailing. Additionally, with those repairs using face nailing, can the fasteners penetrate the boards in multiple locations (ie, every 16" on center the length of the board repair).

With butt joint treatment, if the proper caulk is used (allowing for expansion and paint-ability) is the only concern involved with using this as an after the fact/poor installation without sheet flashing solution to preventing water infiltration concerned with aesthetics (ie care with application to only the joint and potential shiny finish)?

The fiber cement boards are certainteed, installed on a home in the southeast, displaying these characteristics on all faces of the home.

Reply:

Steve,

I understand the reasoning. Since a lot is at stake, let's ask CertainTeed for an opinion. Or did you try that?

Also see Pin Back Nailing Repairs in the fiber cement siding repair article above.

(Dec 17, 2015) Steve said:
The warranty rep from the company visually inspected because of the cracked boards and info I saw online about other potential issues being possible.

The Certainteed rep opinion was improper nailing and types of nails were present on 2 sides of the home, with the inspection not going all the way to the top of the second story (all this was visible from within step ladder reach). Securing the boards was advised, but I can not seem to be able to obtain online through the link on this site the installation/repair best practices from certainteed, as they have gone on to become allura). Boards were installed 2012 on a spec new construction. The replacement of the cracked boards therefore has to be through another company.

Trying to move soon with a job relocation and would rather not have to swallow a full blown install, but I also don't want to raise concerns as to over nailing for our region or introduce exterior ventilation issues with the home. (Open-cell spray foam, with unvented attic building envelope, mechanically vented)

Also, with flashing, the boards end at a brick veneer water line architectural feature (the bottom 18"-24" of the homes in the neighborhood have this design element).

There is a L-shaped flashing run located behind the bottom of the fiber cement run and at the top of the of the brick that extends out about 1" to 1.5", but not all the way out-and-over the brick course. Should this flashing element be caulked between the union of the flashing and the brick? (there are weep holes present).

(Dec 22, 2015) Steve said:

If I were to attempt repair the cracked boards and secure them with a face nail using roofing nails, and attempt to secure the remaining loose boards that were improperly fastened with the same face nailing process, would it be necessary/beneficial to use the metal hacksaw method to eliminate the blind nailing that is in place and then rely on the face nail repair at the appropriate fastening schedule and spacing so that the boards are not secured by both methods potentially limiting their ability to adjust to the seasons?

Reply:

Steve, sorry you had trouble with the Certainteed link - let me check it out.

I agree that you've got the right questions in mind.

Steve I forced "off" our citations section so that you can see the original link for the Certainteed instructions.

Here is the data

[5] Certainteed Weatherboard fiber cement siding and trim products - see certainteed.com/ or see certainteed.com/resources/sidingandtrimspecsheet.pdf

[5a] "CertainTeed WeatherBoards™ Fiber Cement Siding Installation Manual", CertainTeed Corporation, 2012, CertainTeed Corporation, PO Box 880, Valley Forge PA 19482, Professional Help Line: 800-233-8990, Consumer Help Line: 800-782-8777, Website: Certainteed.com www.certainteed.com/resources/fc017.pdf retrieved 4/11/2013, [copy on file as Certainteed_Fiber_Cement_Siding_Install_fc017.pdf ]

[5b] "Certainteed WeatherBoards™ Fiber Cement Siding Best Practices for Effective Job Site Management", CertainTeed Corporation, retrieved 4/15/13 original source: www.certainteed.com Copy on file as Certainteed_FC_Handling Brochure-Contractor_FC063.pdf

Steve I want to add that roofing nails will look horrible and be visible from afar; I'd look at other fasteners, maybe stainless steel ring-shank nails driven carefully; It'd be nice if the manufacturer would comment as they're the authority.

2015/12/31 Steve said:

Thanks for all of the advice. The roofing nails as a solution was something I thought I had read as a method of fastening in a face nailing situation because of the wider head. Definitely will look at ring-shank option, was already leaning towards stainless steel from other input I have uncovered. Trying to get in touch with the manufacturer once the holidays ease up, and continue to gather info to see if this is going to be something I can handle or if we need to hire someone.

From the standpoint of an inspector, how concerned would you be looking at a property that you saw the face nailing as long as the correct fastners were used? What if it was only done in spot areas, versus if I were to go around the entire home to face nail the boards insuring they were in fact secured?

Again, thank you for your input and taking the time to answer and compile this resource.

Reply:

It would raise an orange flag: someone has done non-standard work on nailing siding - we may not know why. When I see any work that does not follow industry or manufacturer recommended practices it makes me worry not just about what was wrong at the point I'm examining, but what other DIY work was done by someone at the property: Im on alert for other possible snafus.

Document what you did and why - that may help resolve questions.

I should have added that regarding your assumption that the builder of a spec home is not responsible for construction defects, that depends in part on where you live. For example New York and some other states have a New Home Warranty Law.


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