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WATER PUMPS, TANKS, TESTS, WELLS, REPAIRS
WATER CONSERVATION MEASURES
WATER CONTAMINANT LEVELS
WATER FILTERS, HOME USE
WATER HAMMER NOISE DIAGNOSE & CURE
WATER ODORS, CAUSE CURE
WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE
WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING
WATER SOFTENERS & CONDITIONERS
WATER TANK REPAIR PROCEDURES
WATER TANK: USES, TROUBLESHOOTING
WATER TESTS, CONTAMINANTS, TREATMENT
WATER TREATMENT EQUIPMENT CHOICES
WELLS CISTERNS & SPRINGS
WELL CHLORINATION & DISINFECTION
WELL FLOW RATE
WELL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS
WELL YIELD IMPROVEMENT
WINTERIZE A BUILDING
How to diagnose poor well water pressure or total loss of water pressure: this article explains how and why to distinguish among intermittent water pressure loss, total water pressure loss, and poor water pressure or flow in a building. We give diagnostic and repair procedures for both municipal water supply problems and well water supply problems.
The process of diagnosis and the costs of the repair are explained. Consumer advice on saving money on water supply repair costs includes a review of the parts and labor costs of a typical well pump and pressure tank replacement case.
Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2014 InspectApedia.com, All Rights Reserved.
Check first for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. A lightning strike can also damage electrical wiring supplying a submersible pump, or it may damage the pump itself. And less common, a total power failure can sometimes expose a latent problem in the system such as a failing pressure tank bladder or well foot valve. But always look for the most direct explanation first rather than the more complicated one. So if water pressure fails after electrical power has been lost but then returned, start by looking for an electrical problem.
Watch out: a power surge or lightning strike can on rare occasions trip just half of an un-linked 240-Volt circuit breaker or blow just one of the pair of fuses powering a 240-volt electrical circuit, leaving a pump that runs, but barely, developing only minimal water pressure, or a pump that runs not at all. An electrician or an experienced well and pump installer can diagnose these conditions by testing the well pump circuit itself, but before calling an expert, just check the fuses and circuit breakers. Thanks to reader EK Woodard for these details.
WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES) or there may be a bad check valve on well piping at or near the water tank or near the above-ground water pump
(CHECK VALVES, WATER SUPPLY) and so be losing prime. A leak in the well line piping itself can also lead to loss of prime or to air entry into the piping system
(AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES)
at WELLS CISTERNS & SPRINGS. Leaks in well piping either inside the well itself or between the building and the well bottom can also mean reduced water flow, quantity, and pressure in the building.
See WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS.
Before assuming that there is no water in the well, check to see if the water pump is working properly, including loss of pump prime (WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE) and
a bad or leaky well piping foot valve (WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES).
AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES can also indicate a failing well.
Also see Define Safe Yield for a Well.
Readers whose wells simply run out of water should
see WELL FLOW TEST PROCEDURE
and see WELL YIELD IMPROVEMENT
See WATER PRESSURE REDUCER / REGULATOR (not usually installed on private well and pump systems, often present on municipal water supply systems that use an in-building local water pump and pressure tank to boost pressure).
Before adjusting a well pump pressure control switch
(WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH), changing building piping, or considering installing a water pressure booster pump
(WATER PRESSURE BOOSTER PUMP), it is essential to understand what the incoming water pressure is and exactly why the building water pressure is not satisfactory. Start at the beginning of this article:
WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR.
Water pump pressure regulator switch diagnosis and repair steps include these:
of Poor water pressure just at certain plumbing fixtures just above.
Our sketch (left) courtesy of Carson Dunlop, shows how rust can clog steel water supply piping.
If incoming water pressure is high - say over 40 psi, but water pressure falls off almost immediately when you open a faucet and remains poor, there may be a clog somewhere in your piping system, or worse, in most of it. This condition usually develops over a long time - years - and does not change suddenly on its own.
Readers should also see WATER PIPE CLOG DIAGNOSIS
and WATER PIPE CLOG REPAIR.
Also see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR in a building
and see MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS
or WELL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS where we describe the effects of clogged piping on water flow and offer remedies for this problem.
If only hot water pressure and flow are poor, also
see CLOGGED SUPPLY PIPES, HOT WATER.
A building using 1/2" diameter piping, especially if the incoming water pressure is modest, or if the building has extensive lengths of water supply piping, perhaps combined with many elbows and tees, will suffer reduced water flow at its fixtures.
A common "fix" for poor building water "pressure" (really flow) where the piping is blamed, is to install larger diameter water supply piping wherever the piping is readily accessible, such as in a basement or crawl area.
As the sketch at left, courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates shows, installing larger diameter water supply piping helps regardless of where in the piping sequence it is installed - so you don't have to rip out all of the building water piping to make this water flow rate improvement.
Since bad water pressure or flow can be a piping problem rather than a supply quantity problem, also see PIPING IN BUILDINGS, Clogs Leaks Types.
See CLOGGED SUPPLY PIPES, HOT WATER. Bad Hot Water Pressure?
See HOT WATER IMPROVEMENT especially if the building cold water pressure is acceptable but hot water pressure and flow are poor. Accumulated debris in a water heater, and debris from a corroded or disintegrating hot water tank dip tube or hot water tank sacrificial anode can also block the hot water outlet opening, resulting in low hot water pressure in a building.
The sketch at left, courtesy of Carson Dunlop, shows five factors that affect the water pressure and flow in a building. Check the following first:
Also, a water treatment system that uses air injection to remove odors or gases can cause
AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES
Here is an example of a drop in water pressure that may be due to water filter clogging:
Question: We have a well in our home. Can you tell me what to do if we have a lot of black debris that is in our water filter system? We think this could be why we have poor water pressure. Is there such a thing as a build up of soot or debris that we need to do something to clean the lines?
Answer: Try changing the water filter cartridge. If the problem is eliminated, the filter was clogged. If a lot of debris has been getting past the water filter, or if the water filter was a late addition to a home that has had a long history of using debris-laden water, pipes, fittings, faucet strainers, and shower heads may be clogged and may need to be cleaned or replaced.
See WATER FILTERS, HOME USE for details about clogged filters, and
see WATER TREATMENT EQUIPMENT CHOICES for our complete list of types of water treatment equipment.
Adding a booster pump can improve building water pressure where the private pump and well system can't get enough pressure or quantity or where the building height impacts water pressure on its upper floors.
See WATER PRESSURE BOOSTER PUMP for details.
Continue reading at WELL WATER PRESSURE IMPROVEMENT - steps to improve water pressure & flow from a private well water supply or select a topic from the More Reading links shown below.
Suggested citation for this web page
Green link shows where you are in this article series.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
(Dec 3, 2011) Tambi Rosendahl said: This information has been very helpful, thanks so much!
(May 29, 2012) tony said: well water system
Question: how do we do a water test if no water pressure?
(May 22, 2012) HUD foreclosed home said:
we're in process of purchasing a foreclosed HUD owned home using a 203k renovation loan. HUD appraisal says:
plumbing system failed to hold pressure. When our contractor went out to evaluate/estimate, found out wire from main breaker to points was missing. we're being told we need a well water test but no work can be done on home. how can we do the water test
You really cannot do a valid water potability test without working well and pump system - even if you tried a temporary independent pump to draw water from the well the test would not be valid nor reliable. Especially when a home has been "shut down" for some time, it's important to flush the well, water tank, and piping before collecting a water sample; else it's not representative of what you will actually be drinking. This is by no means a new nor unique problem. Take it back to your lender for advice.
Question: low water pressure at just some fixtures
(May 29, 2012) Tony said:
HI I have odd problem ..ok,,low pressure in kitchen,,sink,very low in shower and very good in bathroom sink,,Help?
Check for a partly closed supply valve or clogged faucet strainer or clogged piping between where pressure is good and where it's bad.
Question: lost all water pressure
(June 3, 2012) amber phillips @amberphillips@li said:
our kitchen faucet has lost ALL pressure down to less than a trickle while other fixtures in the home have great water pressure, we had the problem once before but it was resolved with a new filter. This time even after several filter changes it still is messed up. could the water pipes immediatly under the sink be causing this or something else? Any advice is greatly appreciated and all methods will be exhausted
When all water pressure is lost in a building the problem is more likely to be at the well, well piping, pump, tank, and controls right there. That's where I'd start.
Question: lightning strike, lost well pump
(July 3, 2012) mickey said:
I have a plumbing problem in my house that won't go away. A couple of years ago, out house was hit by lightning, and it knocked out our well pump. After replacing the pump, the black roll pipe, the 40/60 switch, and some minor piping at the well head, we are still losing water pressure every so often. Usually, if we wash a load of clothes, take 2 showers, and wash some dishes, the house is without water for hours. The pressure reading at the bladder is 0, and the pump is not engaged.
The we have opened up the well, and there is still water available. We have changed the regulator switch to a 30/50 instead of a 40/60, but there is no change in water pressure loss. I have noticed that some of the faucets leak a t their base, but only when the water is turned on. What could be going on? The only thing we haven't changed are our faucets, bladder, and piping.
Mickey: check your well pump pressure control switch for dirt clogging at its sensor port or just try replacing it.
Question: loss of pressure when running watering system
(July 24, 2012) Lee said:
My 1hp sta-rite jet pump was replaced after 2 yrs. Well is maybe 90ft. and used for lawn irrigation. We discovered a foot/check valve problem and that valve was replaced. Now pressure falls when outflow value is open. I replaced my irrigation values to rule out leaks. I ran the pump (30-40 min) with and without city water support to the pump (priming). Still, when outflow valve is opened pressure continues to fall to 0. Pump will maintain prime when outflow value is closed. Open any value - 0 pressure after water in pump is pushed through. Is this pump pulling water? How to check? If not, then what to do next on a brand new pump?
Lee: It's normal for pressure in a watering system to drop when we change from static pressure (nothing is flowing) to flowing pressure (water is running) - but if pressure falls to zero it sounds as if there is a pump damage, pipe leak. You indicate that the pump is running; but it may not be able to develop pressure if an internal part is broken.
Question: lightning strike damage to well, casing, pump, piping
(Aug 10, 2012) Dawna said:
We have 2 wells on our property operating independently with submersible pumps plus 1 additional pump in our 3000 gal sistern. Our property was hit by lightning and now all in- ground pumps are fried. Well #1 (7 GPM) went dry instantly. We have had our professional pump folks out.
They have replaced all electrical componets in the pump house plus the submersible pump on the 7 gmp well, well #1. We have replaced all electrical componets in the pump house but not yet the pump on well #2 and still no water from either. We are hopeful that our insurance will cover the cost of the electrical componets, pump truck and operator time, and drilling a new well(s). Please let me know what your experiences are with lightning killing a well. It's like fracting only by mother nature.
Lightning strikes can damage or destroy a well pump motor, wiring, controls, even piping or the casing. It depends... We've also seen damaged or split well casing and well piping.
Question: poor water pressure when running sprinklers
(Aug 26, 2012) Patti Morris said:
well pump all of a sudden does not allow as much watering. Used to be able to run 4 sprinklers at a time now 2 is all. runs at 70psi where used to run at 80.
Patti, the well yield may have deteriorated, or there could be something easier such as a piping leak or a damaged pump, even low voltage. See
Question: weak water pressure upstairs
(Oct 17, 2012) David c said:
I have a deep well pump and pressure tank. I get decent pressure and water flow downstairs like nothings wrong but upstairs I get absolutly nothing at all. All the pluming is new from the pump to the tank and ran into the existing plumbing. No leaks at all but still get no wated flow at all! Can anyone help me with ideas!!!! Email is BCDC09@gmail.com!
David, try the diagnostic suggestions at WELL WATER PRESSURE IMPROVEMENT
Question: high pitched whistle, now no water pressure
(Nov 19, 2012) Jennifer said:
Last night water pressure and flow was great. Although when I flushed the toilet in the middle of the night I heard a high pitched sound, kinda like a whistle. Now this morning our water only has a small stream of water that flows from all our faucets. And not enough water pressure to flush toilets. Where do I been, common since (I hope) tells me it a pressure issue. What do I look for? Where do I begin?
The whistle may have indicated a failing control, pump, or something else, I can't guess from just that comment. But diagnostics that tell you what to check in what order are at NO WATER PRESSURE
Or for a more succinct sequence of diagnostic steps in lost water pressure see
Question: bad well water pressure in the UK traced to a clogged foot valve
(Mar 1, 2013) n said:
being new to private wells *never seen or heard of a private well in the UK its all city water* ive been on a steep learning curve, some of problems ive had and the fixes maybe of help to others , someone left the garden hose on twice , both time the well appeared to run out , 2nd time i couldnt reprime the pump , we replaced the pump and well pipes only to find the foot valve had a bit of poop that stopped it fully closing a new foot valve was put in but still wouldnt prime ,
we found out the foot valve was sitting in the sediment , so if you replace the pipes make sure they are exacltly the same length,(was only a fot difference in lenght) ive also had a cycle problem that despite a ok pressure check on the water tank the bladder was shot ( maybe the lighting strikes could be a fried bladder maybe worth a check). also had two pumps both same hp but one was far worse than the other at pulling water , hope this helps some of you out there
Thanks N. Details about foot valves are at
Question: bad water pressure: should we test the tank bladder?
(Mar 11, 2013) jennifer said:
My well is six years old and I now keep losing water pressure I've replaced the filters. Does anyone have an idea what u have to do to test the bladder??
Its not likely to be the bladder, at least not directly. The bladder and pressure tank don't give water pressure. maybe well, pump, Foot valve, or a pressure control switch problem.
Question: bad city pressure
(Mar 19, 2013) Zee said:
Either your incoming water pressure is very poor or there is a clog in your piping; start by checking and cleaning fixture strainers; if that makes no difference, it's time to ask for help from a plumber.
If incoming pressure from your municipal supply is poor see WATER PRESSURE BOOSTER PUMP
(Mar 16, 2014) sue tucker said:
i have a 60-80 ft well with a submersible pump--my water pressure has never been real strong or lasts real long it kind of goes down to nothing i can only wash small loads and showers can't be long but this has been like this since i bought the house 12 yrs ago
in last 2 weeks my water pressure has gotten pretty weak and in my washer it has almost stopped til i turn it off then a little bit later i try again but it doesn't seem to be like it was when it runs it goes down to almost nothing then comes back on but not strong
my toliet has also started not flushing well--i just had a new pressure tank and regulator put in in october of last year
i checked for leaks in basement--i do have a leak in drain line that has been there for over a year and another one on far side in drain do you have any ideas that might help me figure out what is wrong? thanks you
IT sounds as if you have a well with marginal flow rate that has continued to deteriorate. Search InspectApedia for
how to increase well yield
for some suggestions.
The drain line leak is unsanitary and may indicate a broken line and partial clog that could separately cause poor toilet flushing.
Poor toilet flushes also occur if the toilet tank or cistern is not properly filled or the flush valve closes early.
Question: good water pressure until run one or two fixtures - shallow well jet pump system
(Mar 21, 2014) Samantha said:
I have a 25 ft well with a jet pump. My pressure is great up until you flush a toilet or run two sinks at the same time. We replaced the foot valve in August and there are no leaks present. Also we replaced the expansion tank because the bladder in our old one had holes in it. Our plumber came out and even after he charged us $600 we still have the same problem. what could this possibly be?
Samantha, I would start by checking two different problem areas:
1. hard water, scale or other deposits that may have clogged the water piping system. A common diagnostic clue is that when you first open a faucet water flows with great pressure but quickly falls off to a much lower flow rate.
Question: how to fix at Hubbell Industrial Controls, Inc. Class 69ES Pressure Switch
(Mar 30, 2014) drkm02 said:
I have a Hubbell Industrial Controls, Inc. Class 69ES Pressure Switch. Three day ago, I was adjusting the number 2 screw, and the screw came out. I panic, and I put the screw back in. I did not see a spring or any other components from the number 2 screw. My question, did I screw up the setting on Number 2 screw. And if I did, Can you tell me how to fix it?
On the Hubbel Class 69ES pump pressure control switch the large hex nut over a large spring is the main pressure range adjustment and the smaller, separate bolt-like hex nut adjusts the differential by pushing on what looks to me like a plate in the switch base. I don't see any illustration of a spring on that adjuster in the installation manual. You can also contact the company directly to ask for an installation and adjustment manual for your switch.
Hubbell Industrial Controls, Inc.
Question: new pump doesn't pump water
(Apr 2, 2014) Anonymous said:
i put in a new sumersable well pump but its not pumping any water. its a 100ft deep and the casing is wet from about 50ft on down. the pump is running, it pumped enough to fill the back of the toilet then stoped, that was after about 2hrs of waiting. pleas help!
Question: replaced pipe, now no water pressure
(Apr 12, 2014) bill said:
my electric well was coming on about every 5 minutes i think there is a leak so i replaced a pipe . now the water will not come on. there was no pressure on the gauge so i put air in and it still want come on. what can be the cause?
If a water pump was short-cycling and then you have no water after replacing a well pipe I suspect your system has lost prime, or still has a piping leak.
start by checking the pump priming articles listed just above
Question: erratic initial pressure loss when pump kicks on
(May 16, 2014) Tim L. said:
I have a private well and when the pump kicks on at 30 psi the pressure gauge goes to zero for a second and then goes right back up til it cuts off at 50 psi. You can see the water pressure drop in the house when you are running water and the pump kicks on. Any ideas?
Is this a 2 line jet pump? If so the system sends some water down the well in order to get more water back up; so the "sending down" water might explain a loss of house pressure if at the same time there's a problem with the well pipe water pick-up venturi
(May 17, 2014) Tim L. said:
No, it is a single line in a 200 ft. deep well. I checked the pressure tank pressure empty and it has the correct pressure.
Tim I might try first connecting an external water pressure monitoring gauge to see what's really going on with the system. Sometimes debris can clog a gauge port confusing its readings. Take a look at the gauge attachement shown at the top of this article
Question: signs of loss of well prime
(May 22, 2014) Tim L. said:
I put a new gauge and pressure switch on and it seemed fine for a little but then returned to the way it was. Could it be the check valve at the bottom of the well? I was running water for a lot when I replaced the switch . Maybe that's why it seemed fine at first.After it sits a little it might be loosing some water or prime.
Tim that's a reasonable guess; If you are not running any water and watch the pressure gauge and see pressure falling there's a leak somewhere.
Question: water pressure goes from very low to high
(May 29, 2014) Donavan Spader said:
Well pressure goes extremely low to extremely high
(May 29, 2014) Anonymous said:
I wonder if we are dealing with the nladder in the tank or a pressure guage sensitivity?
I suspect a slugginsh pressure control. See WATER PRESSURE VARIATION CAUSES
If the pressure *exceeds* the intended set pressure in the system then this is UNSAFE and you should shut the system off pending repair, as you could blow a tank (injure someone) or burst a pipe (flood the building).
Otherwise I suspect a debris-clogged sensor port on the pressure control switch. Try replacing that as well as the gauge.
Question: poor water pressure after installing large pressure tank
(June 1, 2014) Marlo Richert said:
We installed a water tank about 50 feet from the well, and put the booster pump at the WELL site instead of at the tank...Our water pressure is not as good as it was when we didn't have the tank and booster pump system. Could that be because the booster pump is not at the tank?
The tank is 2500 gal
Any snafu in the installation could be at fault: smaller diameter piping, a valve partly shut, a solder blog clogging a pipe, or a pressure control switch not properly set, or change in pump capacity.
Submersible well pumps can be much more distant than 50 ft. from the pressure tank and work fine.
But I'm unclear what sort of pump you're using, how many pumps you've got and where they are. It's the pump that sets the pressure and flow rate, not the size of the water tank - unless your water tank is feeding a building from above by gravity.
Certainly if you are running the system with a single pressure control switch I'd look at those settings as well as at pump capacity.
(June 6, 2014) Mike Murphy said:
I have a well that supplies the house where the water storage tank is and a hydrant in my barn. The pump pressure is good at 55-60psi both places. The house puts out 8 gal. per minute but only 3 gal per minute in the barn. If I installed a pressurized water storage tank in the barn which would fill at the mentioned pressure and flow, would that work to adequately supply a small apartment I plan on building in it?
(June 9, 2014) DARYL said:
I bought an old cabin on a lake and I have very low water pressure and the pump pulsates when running. The pump is 1/2 HP Is this standard? The pump is about 35ft. from the house and I replaced most of the plumbing with 1/2 cpvc. Was this the right size? The pump is probably the original one.
(June 25, 2014) Bishop said:
Well PSI great from the spigot that is off the submersible well. Will keep that pressure with a little fluctuation as the pump cuts on and off. Once the water enters the house it is a different story. When you first turn on a faucet water comes out at good pressure for about 30 seconds then goes to a small stream. This is the same for anywhere in the house (sink, toilet, shower) - hot or cold.
Check the pressure gauge at the pressure tank in the home. Watch its change when you open a faucet. If pressure drops rapidly down we suspect the pressure tank is waterlogged. If pressure at the gauge remains high we suspect clogged supply piping or a blockage somewhere near the pressure tank.
Question: no water after leaving it running a long time
(June 29, 2014) David said:
On a well and left water running from a hose pipe for about 2.5 hours by accident. Now no water from any taps. Water pump pressure shows as zero. Breakers for water pumps are good. Ideas?
If you leave water off for 24 hours to let the well recover you may be ok. Keep us posted so,we can follow up as needed.
Question: pump does not always turn on
(July 9, 2014) Erich said:
I was having issues with the well not coming on all the time and thought the pressure switch might be going bad. I replaced the pressure switch with a like one (30-50). The same issue is still occurring. The well will not come on and when the pressure drops below 30. It does this erratically, sometimes it will work other times it will not come back on. Sometimes it goes up to 50psi and shuts off other times it cuts off at 40. I have to manually engage the pressure switch to get it running again. When it shuts off it holds the pressure and does not drop until the water is actually turned on.
When you replaced the pressure control switch, if you left an existing small-diameter mounting tube for the switch or small diameter pressure-sensing tube between the switch and the pump that might explain the switch not responding to a drop in water pressure.
Also check for a pressure gauge that is itself not responding to pressure changes (try tapping on it gently) as the gauge too can become clogged.
Question: where to start troubleshooting loss of water pressure
(July 21, 2014) Janet said:
I am on a 23 year old private well that has never caused any problems until recently. When I water the garden beds, I lose all pressure in the house resulting in a tiny drip to no water at all at the faucets. Where should I start my troubleshooting?
Janet I'd start at topic #5 in the article above, well running out of water. Keep us posted.
Question: very high water pressure gauge reading & ugly noises
(Aug 9, 2014) Anonymous said:
how come my well pressure gauge is to high
Watch out: - that is an extremely high and DANGEROUS pressure for a residential water system. A plumber in New York was killed when working on an over pressurized water tank that burst.
Possibly the pressure is not really that high and the gauge is defective, Otherwise I suspect a defective pump control switch and very dangerous conditions.
Turn the system off. Drain system pressure from a remote, safe spot away from the pressure tank.
Question: worn out well pump?
(Aug 26, 2014) Home water well pump user said:
Home water well pump --
If I momentarily cut the pressure tank off the system (shut the valve to the tank), then the pump quickly shuts off.
Wondering if I just wore out the pump but since it shuts off when I cut out the tank I am not sure.
Home water well pump --
Typically the problem you describe arises from
- low flow into the well
If the pump is burned-up it won't run at all.
Indeed, hauling water to and pouring it into a low-water-level well may not be much help - the added water may simply leak back into the ground around the well bore where local water table levels have dropped.
Question: pump won't turn on until pressure is at zero
(Sept 13, 2014) bob kennedy said:
my water pump does not kick on until i have almost no water pressure. i replaced the pressure switch, to no avail. i have a tank that does NOT have a diaphram, usually i have to put more air into the tank because it comes on too soon. could i somehow have gotten too much air into the tank? i havent pumped air into the tank in some time.
Check for debris clogging in the tube that conducts water pressure to the pressure sensing port on the pressure switch.
Also check for a sticking pressure gauge. The pressure gauge does not control water pressure but if it's stuck it can give an incorrect pressure reading.
(Sept 13, 2014) BOB KENNEDY said:
i think my problem IS a clog, i just gotta figure out where. why would the gauge matter? i thought that it was just for ME to see the pressure. the gauge is in fact NOT working, as it hasnt in years(that's why i didnt think it mattered).
Bob you're right to question my advice about the gauge. THe gauge has nothing to do with the operation of the pump control nor piping. I included it for a different reason: the same debris that clogs a pump pressure control switch sensor port will often also clog a pressure gauge. Because we can see the gauge and notice it it is acting oddly - like sticking - that can help diagnose the problem over at the pressure switch.
After writing my comment I worried that it might be confusing. It was. sorry.
Question: problems with Grundfos .75 HP submersible pump
(Sept 18, 2014) tom said:
I have Grundfos .75 HP submersible pump, new last October: my static level was 35ft, pump set was 175feet, well depth was 200feet. (I have a 30/50 pressure switch also less than 1 year old).
I filled my hut tub (250 gallons) yesterday. The water stopped flowing. pressure was at zero. I turned off the power to the pump & let it sit for about 20 minutes. I turned the power back on, and the water pressure went up to 30, and stopped. When I ran the water, the pressure went to zero. I turned off the power again, and left it off for 3 hours.
After turning it on again, the pressure went up to 50 and cut off. I thought I was home free. When I woke up this morning, I turned on the faucet and the water trickled and stopped. The pressure was at zero. I turned the power off again. What is wrong?
It sounds as if you are describing a well with poor recovery rate. Have you checked that?
Is it possible you ran the well dry? Or burned a pump motor or control switch?
Question: rising readings on water pressure gauge
(Sept 19, 2014) Lettie Hulet said:
the gauge on our water well has been going up from 65 normal now to 75 and 80. I the water going down in the well its self? in the tank it reads 42. Is it bad?
SOunds like a debris-clogged pressure gauge is not reading pressure properly. Confirm this by making an independent static water pressure measurement on the system at the tank or at a convenient hose bib.
check for a debris clogged, sticking water pressure gauge
Watch out: if a pump control itself is actually generating abnormally high pressures the system is unsafe!
Question: water pressure falls to zero
(Sept 23, 2014) brad ferri said:
I have a well with a chlorinating tank, when occasionally the chlorinator tank runs low or empty I get 0 water pressure in the house... is this normal and what can I do to change that if so
Question: diagnosing loss of water pressure
(Nov 7, 2014) Matt said:
One week ago the water pressure in my home at random began to fall off to a trickle for 30 seconds or so then recover to normal. It is now (still at random)slowing,then stopping completely,then recovering. I have a private well,80' deep.No leaks or obvious issues on the house side.Where do i start first on the well side of the system?P.S. Thank you for this amazing resource!!!
(Nov 7, 2014) Matt said:
"At random" odd water pressure behaviour on a pump and well system suggests a pressure control switch is sticking or not responding to changes in water pressure, perhaps because the switch sensor port is debris clogged. Try changing the switch. Let me know if that works.
Then if the problem remains check for loss of water in the well.
Question: almost no water pressure
(Nov 9, 2014) Corey said:
Some one please help! We have a well and have barely any pressure. I feel the pump running. I don't hear anything clock on or off though. On the gauge it shows zero psi. Thers barely a trickle of water esp out of the hot water side. Our tank air pressure reads 30psi if that matters. Also we had been seeing some sediments coming out the faucets randomly. We just replaced water pressure switch and power box for the well and neither helped. We can't afford to pay anyone unless they take payments but is there any thing it can check or replace myself and also does home owners insurance cover this
Corey try the checklist at WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE
Question: water pressure keeps going up and down and box keeps clicking on and off
(Nov 11, 2014) Anonymous said:
hi, I have a problem. The water preasure keeps going up and down. a small "tweeker" box keeps clicking on and off every time the water is turned on. I read the inside cover of it and it says turn nut 1 counter clockwise to raise cut on and off pressure. Than it says turn nut 2 cw to raise off presurre only. I dont really understand what that all means. i just want it not to kick on so much like that. it clicks like every 10 seconds when water is turned on at fosset.
Anon check out the diagnostics at WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING
Question: lower water pressure after replaced pump
(Nov 16, 2014) Doug said:
Replaced well pump water pressure was 60 psi after replacement. 24 hrs later the water pressure is 40 psi any ideas
Question: crud in water pipes
(Nov 24, 2014) LarryS said:
My pvc water pipe, coming from the outside well pump into the basement is crudded up with what looks like white material (from the type of water I have). What do I use to clean that out of the inside of the pipe so I can have more of an even flow of water and the pump doesn't have to work as hard?
Some suggestions are at inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Tankless_Coil_Clogging.htm
Question: does complete loss of water pressure mean a bad pressure tank
(Nov 29, 2014) Anonymous said:
is completely losing water pressure altogether and/or frequently a sign of a bad pressure tank? I started my pressure tank over and over last evening and it would immediately start dropping in pressure until there was none if i turned on a faucet.. This happened repeatedly. I gave up. Attempted to call for repair;unsuccessfully (weekend).
No, probably not. It's the pump that creates pressure in the water supply system and the well that supplies the water. The pressure tank smooths the flow or delivery of water during pump on and off cycles and reduces the load on the pump by avoiding rapid on-off cycling of the pump when water is run.
Question: cycling water pressure
12.1.14 steve said:
water runs good then stops pump kicks in seconds later water runs good builds up presure and this starts all over again whats my
Steve that sounds like a problem at the pressure control switch OR a waterlogged pressure tank.
Also see WATER PRESSURE STOPS, RETURNS
Question: pressure drops to zero before the pump relay clicks on
12/7/2014 Bill said:
I have a PAD 20 Perma well tank. The gauge reads 60 psi. When we run the water or flush the toilet, the water pressure drops to 0 psi after a few seconds (relay clicks). We still have water flow but it is poor. The gauge stays at 0PSI until we turn off the water. he gauge then builds pressure back to 60 psi and the same thing always happens. I drained the system and checked the air pressure and it is at 40 psi. I believe my bladder is still fine. Its as though my pump doesn't turn on to build pressure. Anyone have any advice? Thanks
Bill often when I see the symptom you describe I find that debris or rust has clogged the tiny opening in the bottom of the pressure switch through which it senses water pressure. Gauges can similarly clog, as can the small diameter tubing that brings water and pressure to some pressure switches. Try changing the switch.
12/7/2014 Bill said:
Thanks, I will replace the switch. This one does not turn on to build pressure while the water is running. Its like the water is gravity fed after the switch relay clicks when the water is on for a few seconds. It never clicks again to build pressure. The pressure only builds up after the water is turned off (no relay click). Thanks again.
Bill often a debris clogged pressure switch waits to turn on until pressure is abnormally low, or ultimately it just does not respond at all. Sometimes we can detect the sticky switch by tapping on it - if it runs when tapped it may have been stuck or clogged.
Questions & answers or comments about how to troubleshoot bad water pressure or no water pressure at all for private well & pump & water tank systems.
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