Questions & answers about what determines water pump or well pump life.
This article series describes the different types of water pumps or well pumps, and we list the factors affecting the life expectancy of water pumps and we include a list of steps to take to maximize the life of a well or water pump and its motor.
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In this article we discuss how long you can expect a water pump to last and what factors affect its life.
Specifics of different types of water pumps can be read in detail at these articles:
On 2018-08-03 by (mod) - signs of a clogged pressure control switch
Dana
that sounds like a debris-clogged pressure control. Replace it.
See details at WATER PUMP PRESSURE SWITCH INSTALL / REPLACE
On 2018-08-02 by Dana - My motor on my pump continues to run and after a while, I have to tap the pressure switch to make it stop.
My motor on my pump continues to run and after a while, I have to tap the pressure switch to make it stop. I have a 20-40 pressure switch and the cut-off was around 42 psi. I checked the tank pressure and found it to be preset at 30 psi. Should I drop the pressure in the tank to 18 psi?
I was going to put in a 30-50 pressure switch, but decided against it. What do you think?
On 2018-06-27 by (mod) -
Check your water pump - with help from a second person and maybe shouting or 2 cellphones - to see if the pump is turning off then back on when you see the water pause at the faucet. Let me know what you find.
On 2018-06-27 by Mom
Just recently when my water faucet is on and running all of sudden there’s a noise and water stops running then it returns to normal? Is something starting need repair? And what type of plumber do I need to call
On 2017-11-30 6 by (mod) -
Carmen,
Do you really mean centimeters? That would be an awfully shallow well.
I don't understand if you are digging a hole or drilling a water well or simply creating a sump pit to remove water from a basement. And all events however you want to not undermine the foundation.
On 2017-11-29 by Carmen
I have a well in my cellar and a pump that I use to dispose the water. Since I am getting a new automatic pump, I have been told that for the device to work, the well has to be 45 centimetres deep but it's just 28 centimetres deep right now.
I would like to ask if it is safe to dig further the well or if there are any risks I shouldn't take?
On 2017-01-23 by (mod) -
Michael
Please search InspectApedia for AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES to read the probable causes and likely repairs
On 2017-01-23 by Michael Paul wensel
When filling tank with air there is alot of water that exist the air value
On 2017-01-09 by (mod) -
Richard
Please search inspectApedia.com for
WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH
And take a look at that article. Let me know if that leaves you with further questions.
On 2017-01-09 by Richard
Is there any safety device that will shut off a pump if it runs beyond a certain time (say 10 minutes). Seems that a pressure gauge that goes to zero could trigger a shut-off switch? Anything like that on the market?
On 2016-12-05 by (mod) -
Don't leave the pump running if it's not delivering water, Enoch. You are likely to damage or ruin the pump. It sounds as if your well is running out of water.
On 2016-12-05 by Wong Enoch
My pump is will run for about 15 minutes and water will stop flowing and pump too doesn't work but the pump is on
On 2016-11-26 by (mod) -
Sure, Clint,
Please use the search box just above and search InspectApedia for WATER FILTERS - SEDIMENT & IRON to see details.
On 2016-11-26 by clint
i would like to know how to deal with high water sediments and how to prevent it from damaging the water pump. i live in africa and the water here is pretty harsh
On 2015-11-13 by (mod) -
Indeed it sounds like reduced flow rate into your well.
On 2015-11-13 by Great site
I have a shallow well 25' that has worked well for me.i could fill my 300 gal hot tub with no problem.
This year I have an intermittent issue. It basically runs out of water and I loose all pressure. When I catch it doing this I shut the power off for a minute and turn it back on and it refills tank to normal.
Shut off and on is normal. Usually i can draw as much as I want like with a washing machine. It will hold pressure over night with pump off .Pump is 12-14 years old.Bladder seems ok. About once a week and the air preesur at faucet will almost knock a cup out of your hand. !/1/4 galvanaized pipe is about the same age.Any ideas for this intermittent issue.
Our water level is below normal this year in my region. Thanks
On 2015-08-21 21:19:36.354306 by Nick
Hi
Can you over spec a domestic cold water booster pump. My calculations suggest a 3 bar would be adequate but I have purchased a 4.5 bar.
Will the life expenctancy be reduced in this instance ?
Many thanks
On 2015-08-11 by Bert
The problem is that when it is malfunctioning, the switch contacts never open. That is the part that has me puzzled. If the contacts don't open, the pump shouldn't quit so the pressure rise should continue to some high point. But that's not what happens.
The contacts remain closed but the pressure cycles 10 --> 30 --> 10 --> 30 and on and on. As i mentioned, it is a fairly short cycle, no more than a few seconds in either direction with the water flowing. If the contacts don't open, why does the pressure drop?
Bert
On 2015-08-11 21:18:37.705484 by (mod) -
That bouncing could be water pump short cycling from a waterlogged pressure tank, particularly if the bounce rate is less than 30 seconds between pump on and off. As you describe your case as close to normal, perhaps the pressure tank is only partly water-logged. IMO a 2-second period for pressure to drop is very short.
About when the pressure would stop climbing: when the pump switches ON the pressure would normally increase at the gauge unless the flow rate exceeds the pumping rate. Closed contacts = pump on = pressure should be going up.
On 2015-08-11 by Bert
Thanks for the response. I will have a look at the snifter valves to see if this applies to me or not.
I didn't explain the "bouncing" pressure very well. While water was running (filling the tub) I watched the pressure gauge and switch. The pressure would drop to around 10 psi and then climb back up to 30 to restart the cycle.
The rise and drop were basically normal, if a bit quick, when compared to normal operation. It would take about 2 seconds in each direction. I just found it odd that the pressure would stop climbing at 30 psi when the switch contacts were closed. It was as if the pump was cycling on and off for some reason.
Bert
On 2015-08-11 by (mod) -
Bert
If your pump is a submersible unit it may be that your well snifter valve system is not working properly. That can give you periodic air in the piping system. Search InspectAPedia for SNIFTER VALVES for details.
The bouncing pressure suggests the gauge (or pressure sensing swtich or both) may be debris clogged.
If your pressure tank were not working properly I'd expect to see short cycling on and off of hte pump.
On 2015-08-11 by Bert
I am experiencing some issues with my well and I find the symptoms to be confusing.
The well is around 260' deep with a submersible pump that is around 20 years old. I see that according to your faq the age of the pump may be an issue.
The symptoms I am seeing are 1) sometimes it works 100% perfectly (30 to 60 psi operating range); 2) sometimes, I get air in the water lines; 3) when it fails, the water pressure bounces from around 10 to around 30 psi yet the pressure switch contacts remain closed all of the time.
I replaced the water tank a few years ago because the previous one had a ruptured bladder. As far as I can tell, the current tank is still OK but I'm not 100% sure. The thing that I find confusing is the failure mode.
Why would a pump stop pumping when the pressure switch contacts are still closed? If there was a problem with the pump itself, I would expect to see a random cutoff pressure but it seemed to be consistent at around 30 psi. Then, it starts working fine again.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Bert
On 2015-06-12 by (mod) -
Yes Bo you can go to a higher HP water pump. But watch out for drawing water out of the well faster than it recovers - as we answered where you asked this at our mobile site - you may need to install a pump protection switch or a well tailpiece if the well inflow rate is limited.
On 2015-06-11 by Bo
I need a new pump for my shallow well which was put in 2 owners ago (about 65 years). Motor was rebuilt about 1982 but don't know if impellers were replaced.
Don't even know if they can be replaced? Holding tank is as old as the well and is bladderless, I presume, and is horizontal and looks like a holding tank for hot water that was attached to wood furnaces back in the 1950's and 60's.
My question is: my pump is 1/3 hp and my tank is about 20 gal and I am wondering if I can use a 1\2 hp pump and upgrade my tank to a 40 gal without causing an issue?
The current pump is installed on the top of the tank not at the well head. It must then be a shallow well, right?
(Nov 18, 2012) Mike P. said:
We have a modern drilled well of unknown depth. Typical for this area is 100-250'.
The well is very high in iron and sediment. We have appropriate above ground systems to remove the iron, both particulate and dissolved.
The one treatment system uses a very high flow backflush once every two days.
The well has a low pressure sensor in the pump relay, and lately we've been finding this tripped when we wake in the morning and the system has backflushed. Could this problem be as simple as a worn well pump head? Water delivery during normal use is acceptable. An accumulator tank is present so the pump does not run all the often.
We'll try to find a local person who might be able help us too.
(Aug 31, 2011) Anonymous said:
water pump shallow type internal parts picture
(June 10, 2012) robert said:
i just bought a foreclosed home and the pump was disconnected i hooked the pump back up to the breaker but i still get nothing what am i doing wrong ?
Mike, we need to know how much water is being used during backwash. If that far exceeds the normal daily usage by household occupants, I suspect the system is drawing water faster than the well recovery rate.
Check that before messing with the pump.
(Aug 27, 2012) jim said:
how deep will a jet pump work
Jim
A 1 line jet pump can lift about 25 ft or less.
A 2-line jet pump can lift considerably higher. But the actual lift capacity will vary depending on the pump horsepower and other factors such as piping length, bends, diameter. Common lift height is about 30 to 80 feet but some deeper installations work.
For example, a twin pipe jet pump plumbing arrangement requires [typical specifications]
(Dec 9, 2012) Ann M. said:
A professional plumber installed a new pressure tank and new water carrying pipe in my well (185 ft).
A new 1/3 hp. submersible pump was installed one year ago. Everything works OK except the delivery pipe to the pressure tank knocks and visibly moves.
Thinking it was trapped air somewhere in the pipes we decided to see if it would dissipate. After one week the pipe still knocks and moves horizontally about 1/2 - 1 inch. How can this problem be alleviated?
(Jan 12, 2013) paul said:
i have a water well , im looking to instal a heating system, i need to all so instal a uv light system for drinking water, and have a good presaure water from the well presaure is 2.5 bar
(Jan 12, 2013) paul said:
ive just started a renovation project in mid devon, the cottage is 150 years old, water is supplied from a well, im looking to install a heating system, can any one recomend the way forward, and type of system i need, water presaure from the well is 2.5 bar, at the moment their is a tank in the loft that feeds a hot water tap their is a uv light in the system but its all in the roof spase with no room to work on it or matain it, what kind of system can i go for
Paul, before choosing well equipment such as pump type, piping, tank, controls, we need to start by learning more about the well itself:
Where is the well located,
How far from the building
Well type: dug, bored, artesian, ?
Well depth
Well diameter
Well flow rate
Then we need an estimate of the daily water requirements.
Knowing these data we can decide if the well flow rate is adequate and we can choose a pump type (1 line jet, 2 line jet, submersible) and water pressure tank size and location.
(Nov 18, 2012) Mike P. said:
We have a modern drilled well of unknown depth. Typical for this area is 100-250'. The well is very high in iron and sediment. We have appropriate above ground systems to remove the iron, both particulate and dissolved.
The one treatment system uses a very high flow backflush once every two days. The well has a low pressure sensor in the pump relay, and lately we've been finding this tripped when we wake in the morning and the system has backflushed. Could this problem be as simple as a worn well pump head?
Water delivery during normal use is acceptable. An accumulator tank is present so the pump does not run all the often. We'll try to find a local person who might be able help us too.
(Aug 31, 2011) Anonymous said:
water pump shallow type internal parts picture
(June 10, 2012) robert said:
i just bought a foreclosed home and the pump was disconnected i hooked the pump back up to the breaker but i still get nothing what am i doing wrong ?
Mike, we need to know how much water is being used during backwash. If that far exceeds the normal daily usage by household occupants, I suspect the system is drawing water faster than the well recovery rate.
Check that before messing with the pump.
(Aug 27, 2012) jim said:
how deep will a jet pump work
Jim
A 1 line jet pump can lift about 25 ft or less.
A 2-line jet pump can lift considerably higher. But the actual lift capacity will vary depending on the pump horsepower and other factors such as piping length, bends, diameter. Common lift height is about 30 to 80 feet but some deeper installations work.
For example, a twin pipe jet pump plumbing arrangement requires [typical specifications]
(Dec 9, 2012) Ann M. said:
A professional plumber installed a new pressure tank and new water carrying pipe in my well (185 ft).
A new 1/3 hp. submersible pump was installed one year ago. Everything works OK except the delivery pipe to the pressure tank knocks and visibly moves. Thinking it was trapped air somewhere in the pipes we decided to see if it would dissipate. After one week the pipe still knocks and moves horizontally about 1/2 - 1 inch. How can this problem be alleviated?
(Jan 12, 2013) paul said:
i have a water well , im looking to instal a heating system, i need to all so instal a uv light system for drinking water, and have a good presaure water from the well presaure is 2.5 bar
(Jan 12, 2013) paul said:
ive just started a renovation project in mid devon, the cottage is 150 years old, water is supplied from a well, im looking to install a heating system, can any one recomend the way forward, and type of system i need, water presaure from the well is 2.5 bar, at the moment their is a tank in the loft that feeds a hot water tap their is a uv light in the system but its all in the roof spase with no room to work on it or matain it, what kind of system can i go for
Paul, before choosing well equipment such as pump type, piping, tank, controls, we need to start by learning more about the well itself:
Where is the well located,
How far from the building
Well type: dug, bored, artesian, ?
Well depth
Well diameter
Well flow rate
Then we need an estimate of the daily water requirements.
Knowing these data we can decide if the well flow rate is adequate and we can choose a pump type (1 line jet, 2 line jet, submersible) and water pressure tank size and location.
...
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