Water Tank Bladder FAQs

Empty Water Tank Diagnosis Q&A

Water doesn't enter the pressure tank

Irrigation pump and water tank had no pressure so I replaced the pressure switch.

Now the pressure switch kicks in and out continuously. Irrigation works but constantly surges. It appears the tank is not taking on any water. Any ideas on the problem ? On 2017-04-18 by Eddie Davis

Explanation by (mod) - 4 suggestions for diagnosing a water tank that's not accepting water into the tank itself

I'm sorry to say I think you may have replaced the pump pressure switch unnecessarily since now we're seeing signs of a waterlogged water pressure tank - the common cause of short cycling of the water pump that you describe as surging.

If no water is entering the pressure tank we need to determine if that's because the tank is already full of water (lost air charge)or if it's because the bladder is stuck to itself and isn't allowing water into the tank.

1. Determine if the pressure tank is full of water or is empty:
   
   Shake the water tank gently (don't break any pipes) - if it is very light it's probably empty. If the tank seems heavy it's probably full of water.
   
   Details of this step are at SHAKE the WATER TANK
   
   Similarly you can tap on the water tank to hear if it sounds hollow or full.
2. Check the air valve on the pressure tank:
   
   If there is an air valve (properly a Schrader valve that looks like a tire valve) mounted on the pressure tank itself you can try removing the air valve cap and briefly pressing the valve stem down. If water comes squirting out and if this is a bladder type tank then the bladder has burst and the tank needs replacement (this is true for nearly all but not 100% of bladder type pressure tanks).
   
   If air hisses out then the bladder may be intact but the tank may not have the proper air charge: with the pump off and pressure drained from the system, set the water tank's air pre-charge pressure to 2 psi below the pressure control switch CUT-IN pressure.
   
   Details are at WATER TANK AIR ADD AT AIR VALVE
3. If you've set the air charge pressure corrrectly and the tank still isn't taking water, then
   
   then most-likely the tank bladder has become stuck on itself, or the water inlet to the tank has otherwise become blocked (such as by a valve that's closed). See our complete explanation and repair recommendations at WATER TANK BLADDER STUCK to ITSELF.
4. See these other causes of pump short cycling:
   
   See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES - why the water pump is cycling on and off very rapidly. If the bladder is NOT stuck to itself, or if your water tank does not use an internal bladder, then the most common cause would be loss of the air charge in the water pressure tank.

Water Won't Go into the Water Pressure Tank Q&A

One of a pair of water pressure tanks won't fill: is it a burst bladder?

We have dual tanks but one doesn’t fill. Could it be a broken bladder? On 2017-12-18 by mcrogers6870

by (mod) -

MC

The bladder in the empty tank could be broken, allowign the tank to become waterlogged, or the bladder could have collapsed and adhered to the tank bottom, blocking water entry.

Sometimes a plumber will briefly boost system pressure (keeping it below the tank's maximum allowed/safe) to try to "un-stick" a bladder.

You might check the tank pre-charge air pressure on both tanks for comparison too.

by mcrogers

Thanks for your reply. Do we check the pre-charge air pressure by depressing the pin on top of the tank? We did that and both tanks had air pressure, seemed about the same. Thanks

by (mod) - pre-charge pressure is measured with a pressure gauge

The pre-charge pressure is measured with a pressure gauge (like a tire gauge) at the air valve on top of the tank. Just depressing the pin will let air out but won't give a measurement.

The air pre-charge is 2 psi below the pump cu-in pressure

BUT a quick and dirty check for water tank burst bladder and full of water is if you press the pin in the air valve and water squirts out then yes we know for sure that the bladder has ruptured.

We have a short cycling pump and water does not enter the pressure tank

My well pressure tank is short cycling - cutting in at 40psi and cutting out at 60psi - every 3-5 seconds when water is running in the house.

The tank is very light and feels like there is almost no water inside the tank. Is there any way to increase the water level inside the tank so the pump doesn't have to turn on so frequently?

Or anyway to check to see why the tank is not holding water?

The pump is underground and I have no access to check to see if the filter is clogged. The water pressure seems to be OK when running so I have to assume water is pumping into the tank OK. On 2018-11-27 by Brian -

by (mod) - signs that the tank bladder is stuck to itself

If your tank is a type that uses an internal bladder I suspect that the bladder is stuck to itself and water is not entering the tank.

The symptom that's easiest to notice is that checking the bladder type water pressure tank actual pressure at the air valve usually found on the top of the tank, that pressure doesn't increase at all when the water pump runs.

It may be possible to un-stick the bladder or to replace it otherwise you would need a new tank.

Water pressure tank seems to be empty and water pump won't shut off

I gently rocked the tank and it does not seem there is any water in it.

My pump will pump water but the water pressure will only go a little over 30 so the pump will not shut off. For now I shut it off manually and turn it on and allow it to run until we have finished taking a shower or some other task.

If the bladder has failed shouldn't the water pressure still build up and then shut the pump off? - Dale

Reply: collapsed, stuck water tank bladder may be the cause

Dale:

If the internal bladder in a water pressure tank has failed, the symptoms can vary a bit.

Sometimes a collapsed bladder will prevent water from entering the tank, or water can enter up to the pump cut-off pressure but water won't flow back out of the tank. If that's happening the pump will turn on and off quickly as if there were a waterlogged water tank.

When the pump won't shut off the well could be running dry or the pump control could be improperly set.

Don't entirely trust the pressure gauge on the water tank to read the actual system pressure.

Sometimes the opening into the gauge that permits water pressure to drive the gauge can become clogged itself, giving false readings.

 

Bladder tank and pump system worked fine until we had a burst water pipe: pump only runs for seconds. Water doesn't go into the tank.

Hi there, we have a bladder tank pump that was working perfectly ok until Friday night when a pipe in the kitchen burst, and all the water was turned off. Now the pipe is fixed and the water back on, but the pump will only run for a few seconds and then goes off.

It also isn't pumping much, if any water into the cold water tank in the loft (just a trickle running into it, mostly after the pump has switched itself off), and the other problem is, there is no water from any of the hot taps in the house.

The hot water tank is full. All valves had been turned back on.

Even running the cold taps won't make the pump come on and stay on. It's currently sitting at approximate 2bar, and when it runs, it cuts out at 3bar.

These figures are usual for our pump.

Any clues on why its cutting out too early and why there's no water coming from the hot tank to the taps?

Also, the cold tap in kitchen feeds straight from the pump, but running the cold tap doesn't make the pump stay on either.

Reply: burst pipe or pipe repairs may have caused debris clogging of the pressure switch

Jack

This doesn't sound like a tank bladder sticking problem.

Perhaps the burst pipe water flow rate stirred debris in the system and clogged the pressure sensor switch.

See the diagnosis and repair tips at

• PRESSURE SENSOR CLOG / FAILED DIAPHRAGM
• PRESSURE SENSOR CLOG at TUBING

Water won't go into my Flotec well tank; is it because of the pressure gauge location?

I have a Flotec well tank, but no water enters it, I adjusted tank pressure but it hasn't work. Do I have to place pressure gauge after cut-in switch (Sept 9, 2014) Venold Johnson

Reply: no, it's a stuck bladder or clog, or a closed valve problem

Venold

The pressure gauge won't impact whether or not a water tank fills as it should.

Look for a tank bladder that has collapsed and stuck to itself or debris clogging the tank inlet.

Repair a Water Tank Bladder Stuck to Itself FAQs

Water tank internal bladder is stuck: water won't go into the tank. How do I repair it?

I just replaced a bad water tank with a new pre-pressure tank. The pressure setting is at 29 psi according to the manufacturer.

However, after hooking everything back up, it appears no water is going into the tank. I attempted to adjust the pressure switch but nothing appears to work. Could I be dealing with a back pressure switch? - Ron

If the internal bladder has failed and collapse onto itself, can I get everything working by removing all the air pressure first and then pumping water into the tank?

There is water coming out of the water valve prior to the tank when the pump is running. However, after closing it, it appears no water is going into the tank. - Ron

... I have a internal bladder water tank that is empty, I have good water pressure until more than 1 water outlet is being used. I have a well water. Wondering if water line to tank could be clogged. I've checked bladder air pressure in tank and that's good.

Pressure gauge reads 40psi all the time Should a remove water tank and try to remove debris from inlet. It's 16 years old. I can't think of any other reason it wouldn't fill up. Help please? (Oct 20, 2014) Joe

Similar question: new bladder tank installed, tank won't fill with water

I just installed a new bladder tank, and it is not filling with water, is this normal? - Wess Wellmaker

Reply: Replace the Bad Air Bladder or try Pumping Up a Stuck Water Tank Internal Bladder

Ron:

I'd check the pressure at your new pressure tank at the pump cut-in and cut-out points.

If the pressure never changes then I'd agree that something's wrong with the hookup and no water is being pushed into the tank. If an internal bladder has failed it can collapse onto itself, stick to itself, and can prevent water from getting into the tank. But first make sure there is no closed valve that ought to be open;

A bad pressure switch would prevent water from entering the water tank if the switch is simply not turning on the pump when it should.

For details of the arrangement of the parts inside of a water tank that uses an internal bladder, see WATER TANK BLADDER CONSTRUCTION

Next: when an internal bladder has collapsed and stuck to itself I think the "fix" may be to replace the bladder or the entire tank and bladder assembly. No water enters the pressure tank when the bladder is stuck like that.

See WATER TANK BLADDER DIAGNOSE, REPAIR or REPLACE

Since your tank is new, replacing the tank or bladder does not sound like the place to start. But even a new water pressure tank that uses an internal bladder could be having a problem filling the bladder the first time.

But according to Jeremy Rasmussen, an experienced well driller and installer, he sometimes can "un-stick" a jammed or stuck water tank internal bladder by temporarily forcing the well pump to pressurize the water tank to a pressure above the usual pump pressure control switch cut-off setting. Jeremy holds the pump relay switch closed to force the pump to keep running to increase the pressure against the stuck bladder.

See WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH

Watch out: Especially if there is no pressure relief valve on the water tank there is a risk of bursting the water tank. Over pressurizing a water tank can cause it to explode, causing injury or even, as happened in New Paltz, NY, death.

Watch the pressure gauge, and keep the tank pressure well below the recommended manufacturer's maximum pressure rating for the tank. If you keep the pressure below 70 psi and the tank is not already weakened by rust or damage, you should be OK.

Watch out: there are potentially fatal electric shock hazards if you touch live electrical wiring, especially in wet areas or where you may also be touching building plumbing.

Finally, check to be sure that any valves between the water pump and the pressure tank are "open" to allow water into the tank.

Wes: indeed water should enter your water tank bladder when the pump cycles on. Look for

- a closed or broken water control valve between pump outlet and water tank inlet

- a stuck water tank bladder (try briefly holding the pressure switch closed to pump up to 1o-15 psi over the usual cutoff pressure to see if you can un-stick the bladder in the tank

Watch out: do not over pressurize a water pressure tank - it can burst and kill someone.

Surging Water Pressure with a Bladder Type Pressure Tank Q&A

Causes of water pressure surges & loud noises from water tank

I live in a 3-story, 6-unit condo building in Chicago. We have a large Well-X-Trol pressurized bladder tank. Recently, my neighbors and I have noticed extreme increases in water pressure.

So much so that the lines to my washing machine start shaking when I do a load of laundry, and that it seems to be close to overwhelming my shower drain.

We have also noticed the noise of the tank running to be loud and frequent. It seems to be running at least 30 minutes out of an hour.

The tank is 5 years old and we never noticed this before.

In the meantime, we have closed off the valves to the tank and have been running just on city pressure - which is actually fine, I'm not even sure why we need a booster. We had someone come out to look at the tank, and said that it seemed to be working properly it is set at 40/60.

But if it is currently working "properly" - why is it running so much and why is the pressure so extreme? It seems to be very hard to find someone who really knows about these issues, so I appreciate any help! (June 9, 2012) Brian 

Reply: Diagnostic tips for municipal water supply connected to a water pressure booster pump and pressure tank

From your note I am guessing that your municipal water supply into the building is getting a pressure boost by a local water pump and that Well-X-Trol pressure tank.

About noises at the water tank, I don't have enough detail from you to say much except that you're either hearing water entering and leaving the tank, a water pressure control switch, or a water pressure booster pump. Try a mechanic's stethoscope to more carefully identify the noise source.

A problem at the water tank itself won't cause high water pressures.

But if the tank is waterlogged - for example if the bladder is stuck and won't accept water or if the bladder is torn and leaky so that the tank's air charge is lost - then that can cause pulsating or short cycling of the water supply.

First: you'll want to review our diagnosis and repair suggestions at the most likely source:

at WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES

Next: Check the actual water pressures at different times using a gauge.

Then check for varying municipal supply pressure at the source.

More help on that topic is

at MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS - topic home

I suspect the root problem in your case is in the water tank or the pressure switch, but to be complete, if your building also includes a water pressure regulator that would be at or close to the building water main shutoff in the building itself. See details at

WATER PRESSURE REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT

Watch Out: if the water pressure tank lacks a pressure relief valve and if water pressure is surging to above the maximum pressure your tank can handle, your system is unsafe. A burst water tank can injure or even kill someone nearby.

More details are at WATER PRESSURE TOO HIGH: DANGERS  - Daniel F.