Water Pump Keeps Running

Diagnostic FAQs #2

FAQs for a water pump won't stop running:

Questions & answers help diagnose & fix a water pump that doesn't shut off: this article series explains how to diagnose & repair a bore hole or well water water pump that keeps on running and won't shut off.

Why Won't My Well Pump Shut Off?

These questions and answers were posted originally

at WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING where we explain what to do if the well or water pump won't stop running.

Be wure to review that article.

Also see our index to all Q&A about diagnosing and fixing a water or well pump that won't turn off, found at WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING FAQs

Article Index

• PUMP RUNS-ON: WHEN MAIN WATER VALVE IS OPENED
• [We're in process of editing the Q&A below - Ed.]

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Shallow well pump won't stop running - after flushing a toilet

I have a shallow well pump that won't stop running after starting when the tank is draw

This only happens when the pump begins to run after a tank draw down from a toilet flush. If any other fixture running causes the tank draw down and the pump to start it builds pressure and shuts off. I am at a loss on where to start.

Reply: diagnostic suggestions by moderator

Ted,

When the pump never shuts off ONLY after a toilet flush one has to suspect that the toilet keeps running - its tank fill valve may be stuck; Otherwise I'd think the pump and well would eventulally be able to reach cutout pressure once the toilet stopped calling for water.

But a well pump and tank ought to be able to keep up with the water demand from just a toilet tank fill-up alone, so there may be another problme. I''m just guessing but it sounds as if your pump is having trouble reaching the cutoff pressure or has for some reason reduced capacity.

When you turn on say a sink faucet the pump probably comes on and runs all the time that you are running water in the sink, but successfully runs up to cutoff pressure and stops when you close the sink faucet.

But when you flush the toilet, the toilet fill cycle may continue for a while (as if you'd left a faucet open), so the pump may be continuing to run because while the toilet is drawing water the pump isn't reaching the cutoff pressure. By the time you walk down to the pump and turn power off and back on the toilet may have finished filling.

If that's the case it would be very odd, because the inflow rate into the toilet tank is so slow that I'd expect the pump to be capable of getting "ahead" of the flow rate and thus reach cutoff pressure. That's why I speculated that the pump capacity or well flow rate may be more limited than you thought.

Check the draw-down cycle on your water pressure tank too. You should have at least 30 seconds of draw down from a full-pressure state before the pump has to come on.

 

How do I clean a clogged, brittle plastic tube between the water pump and pressure switch?

Water pump comes on & off very rapidly.

Plastic tube from switch to motor is very brittle and I don't know how I can clean it - Albert Bonneveld Water 4/6/12

Reply: replace the tubing

Albert, don't even try to clean that brittle plastic line that transmits water pressure from the pump system to the pressure control switch.

If the line is brittle the risk is a break and a building leak or flood.

Just turn off the pump, remove the line, take it to your local hardware store to match its size and length, and install a new one.

 

Well pump relief valve is spilling

i have a well pump with a relief valve in the line just outside the well pipe. when i run water in the house the relief valve open and dumps some water. does this indicate i have a tank problem? - Bob S 7/7/12

Reply:

Bob,

Check the water pressure when the valve is spilling. Also, water hammer can cause spillage at the relief valve.

Is there a sealant I can inject into the well piping to fix a driven point well leak?

I have myers 3/4 hp pump that is hooked to a driven point well that Is 13 foot down in the basement of my house.

The pump is hooked to a 85 gallon holding tank.

From that I water my lawn, and it all has worked fine: usually I can run at 40 psi and the pump shuts on and off at 30 then 50.

But now the pump will not get over 28 psi - (tank pressure and will not go high enough to cycle on and off) .

I just took the pump to the shop and had it checked out. There was a new sleeve they put in and cleaned it out etc.

I hooked it back up and no luck.

I would suspect there is an air leak down in the point that is causing the problems. I have taken the point up many times in the past and don't want to have to go through it again.

Question is there any kind of sealant etc. that I can use to eliminate the air problem is that is the problem. thanks for the help (May 19, 2014) howard

Reply: probably not a good approach: be sure you've correctly diagnosed the troiuble

Howard there may be such a product but I haven't found it. Consider that pouring a sealant into a well pipe is going to want to clog not only a leak point but the well foot valve or driven point openings too.

And I don't assume that the problem is a well piping leak. It could be that your water usage exceed the driven point well's ability to deliver water.

Even when a driven point well has worked fine for years, climate change or other local conditions can cause a drop in the water table into which your driven point was tapped.

Using a driven point well and 85g storage tank to water a lawn sounds like an iffy design to me, unless the lawn is tiny and the watering infrequent.

Bottom line: More likely you're over-taxing the well, which speeds the rate at which the driven point strainer tends to clog.

I'm wrong and there's a piping leak:

When a pump can't reach cut-off pressure and you suspect there's cavitation due to air in the system indeed you'd want to find and replace the leaky part. With frequent pulling and replacing of the well point and piping I'd look out for leaks at ABS/PVC pipe connectors that have been re-used.

Sometimes we can fix such a leak by adding a second stainless steel hose clamp on both sides of the fitting; experienced plumbers don't like to re-use those connections just for this reason - they leak.

Other causes of a pump not reaching cutoff pressure include a worn or damaged impeller and even low voltage.

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Continue reading  at WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING - topic home, how to fix a pump that won't shut off, home page, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

Recommended Articles

• WATER PUMP DIAGNOSTIC TABLE a concise guide to diagnosing and fixing water pumps
• WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH to shut off a pump to prevent burn-up
• WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING
• WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH to shut off a pump to prevent burn-up
• WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES - why does the water pump keep shutting on and off so quickly?
• WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE - home

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