FAQs for a water pump won't stop running:
Questions & answers help diagnose & fix a water pump that doesn't shut off: this article series explains how to diagnose & repair a bore hole or well water water pump that keeps on running and won't shut off.
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If you hate reading FAQs, even though your question may be answered here, please see the lead article on this topic at WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING where we explain what to do if the well or water pump won't stop running.
I have a bladder tank and jet pump. The pump will not shut off, the pressure will build up to 36 psi and just stay there, that's with the line going to the house shut off. If I turn the pump off, after a while the pressure will drop to 30 psi, but the pump never loses its prime. Any ideas to fix? - JJ
JJ I've added some diagnostics to the table above, please take a look.
Diagnose by turning off water into the building, turn off the pump, and watch the water pressure. If pressure falls there is probably a bad check valve, foot valve, or leak in the well piping.
If pressure seems to "stick" at 30 psi try tapping the pressure gauge to see if it's sticking too.
the cold water inside home is heating up why - NJ Payne
your question is not quite clear, but if you mean what would cause an increase in cold water supply temp in a home, it could be seasonal changes, pipe routing of cold piping through hot areas or adjacent to hot water piping, or an actual mix of hot water into the piping system via a mixing valve or an improper connection.
Cold water supply that flows initially out of indoor piping will be warmer as well from having absorbed heat from the building.
We have a Flotec jet pump for our shallow well. After recently running dry (water level must have dropped below the foot valve), the pump continued to run and overheat. This required replacement of several sections of the PVC piping, as it had deformed due to the high temperature. We also installed a new pressure switch (30/50) that has a safety cut-off feature.
The pressure tank is set correctly (checked several times, and it is still holding steady at 28 psi). We have primed the pump several times, but it is not operating correctly. The pump kicks on at the correct pressure, but will not turn off. It gets to about 40psi, and stays there.
Is there still some air in the pump, or has the pump been damaged to where it can no longer generate enough pressure? Or maybe there is another issue?
Thanks for any input. - Alan
Alan, it's possible that running your pump at length, dry, damaged the impeller assembly. If that's the case, even though the motor may run, the impeller may simply not be moving water with as much force as previously. You'll need to disassemble the pump, inspect, and replace the impeller parts if that's the problem. Keep us posted, what you learn will help other readers.
Disassembly of the pump as recommended revealed no obvious signs of damage.
But, since the pump has run dry a few times in the past, I think we will go ahead and order a rebuild kit and replace the internal components anyway.
As a temporary measure, we were able to get the system back up and running by reducing the pressure switch setting by about 3 psi. The pump now turns off at about 40 psi. Hopefully the pump will continue to be able to function at this level until we can get it rebuilt.
Alan, if a well pump is worn or if for another reason the pump is having trouble reaching the cut-off pressure, setting the pressure down to a point that the pump can reach is quite reasonable. But watch out: if the problem recurs you'll need to find and fix the actual problem: with the pump, piping leak, low well water, etc.
I have a deepwell pump that wont pump up to 50psi. I have had to turn down the cut-off pressure twice so that the pump would shut off. Does that mean that my pump is going out? - Rodney
Rodney, any of the problems listed in our checklist table above could explain why your pump won't reach full pressure. Typically it's low water supply in the well; sometimes a well piping leak; or see the details listed above.
I have a shallow well pump that won't stop running after starting when the tank is draw
This only happens when the pump begins to run after a tank draw down from a toilet flush. If any other fixture running causes the tank draw down and the pump to start it builds pressure and shuts off. I am at a loss on where to start.
When the pump never shuts off ONLY after a toilet flush one has to suspect that the toilet keeps running - its tank fill valve may be stuck; Otherwise I'd think the pump and well would eventulally be able to reach cutout pressure once the toilet stopped calling for water.
But a well pump and tank ought to be able to keep up with the water demand from just a toilet tank fill-up alone, so there may be another problme. I''m just guessing but it sounds as if your pump is having trouble reaching the cutoff pressure or has for some reason reduced capacity.
When you turn on say a sink faucet the pump probably comes on and runs all the time that you are running water in the sink, but successfully runs up to cutoff pressure and stops when you close the sink faucet.
But when you flush the toilet, the toilet fill cycle may continue for a while (as if you'd left a faucet open), so the pump may be continuing to run because while the toilet is drawing water the pump isn't reaching the cutoff pressure. By the time you walk down to the pump and turn power off and back on the toilet may have finished filling.
If that's the case it would be very odd, because the inflow rate into the toilet tank is so slow that I'd expect the pump to be capable of getting "ahead" of the flow rate and thus reach cutoff pressure. That's why I speculated that the pump capacity or well flow rate may be more limited than you thought.
Check the draw-down cycle on your water pressure tank too. You should have at least 30 seconds of draw down from a full-pressure state before the pump has to come on.
We have a 5 year old well. A few times or more a month we lose water pressure and it won't come back unless I shut the breaker off and give the pump a break. Sometimes the water comes back in an hour and sometimes it takes over night. We have a submerisable pump with a check valve on it in front of it and right before the tank.
Before we put the one on at the tank it would drain down. Or at least sound like it. It is 120' well with the pump at 100' and water starts at 30'in the well casing. If I water the plants for 15 minutes or wash 4-5 loads of clothes with a water saver washer and take a bath all in one day (not one right after the other) it is done. I am a x-city person and not sure if I am expecting to much.
Our neighbors have great water and no problems with draining their well. Any ideas? - Janice H.
Janice you are describing a well with a poor recovery rate or flow rate. Check with your local well driller to ask about hydro-fracking or other steps that might increase the yield of your well.
Hey, I had to replace submersible pump the company ended up dropping the pump and seven of pipe . Took the several days to get out of 300 ft. hole. Now it supposedly fixed but terrible water pressure. The first had a pump but said was not enough hp so got another one for 200 dollars more. Could they damaged the pump and still used it or went back to the smaller hp to cover damaged pump.
I have turned off several fixtures pressure got somewhat better. I am at a loss thanks - James
James, I'm sorry to read about your well pump drop and aggravation. Certainly a pump could be damaged by dropping. I SPECULATE that the damage risk depends on some variables such as the distance the assembly fell through air before impacting water. With no facts, we can't second-guess what the pump installed did afterwards.
At this point it makes sense to get an accurate diagnosis of exactly why your water pressure is poor, and to see where that leads.
There are plenty of things to check including the delivery rate of the pump and well, the amps being drawn by the pump, correct pump wiring (making a wiring mistake can leave a pump running but at low power), piping leaks, and more.
Try starting at WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR (article link at the "More Reading" links at the bottom of this article ) and keep us posted - what you find will help other readers.
I replaced my water pump last year. This year I left the hose pipe running for about 30 min on the grass, and I suddenly had no water pressure and no water. I cut the pump off, but when I cut it back on....the pressure never builds above 28 psi. The badder tank is at 28 psi too. I can not adjust the pump where it will be 2psi more than the tank.
Pump is primed, but not pumping water. What is wrong?!? I am a single 29 yo woman in nursing school!! I need water! - Tammy 3/31/12
Tammy, I'm not sure from your question - best bet is to go through the diagnostic steps in the table above, or if you prefer text, see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR (article link in the previous question's reply, also found at the "More Reading" links at the bottom of this article ).
If water pressure eventually returned, I suspect you have run out the well itself.
If water pressure was never corrected, the pump itself may have become damaged, or there oculd be a well piping leak - or one of the other problems listed in the table above or in the article I referenced.
Let us know what you find - that will help other readers.
I have a system where water is stored in 600 gallon tanks at the basement level of my house. The water is then pumped up to supply the main level of the house.
There is a water accumulator tank with a pump set at about 35 - 40 psi. When my storage tanks
are full there is good water supply to the house. Once the tank water level drops to half, the pump runs continuously but there is no
water in the house.
The tank level also drops then even though no water is coming into the house. I cannot find any obvious leaks but of course I cannot see pipes that are in the foundation. It seems that there must be a leak or siphon problem but what explains that the pump works well when the tanks are full? - Robert 4/4/12
With the water tank level dropping and the pump running continuously, I wonder if you have a leak in the well piping that you didn't see - perhaps deep into the well or under the foundation; Try shutting down the system entirely and watching for a water pressure drop.
Robert, if no water is entering the building and tank pressure drops i suspect a badfoot valve, check valve, or aleak in well piping
Water pump comes on & off very rapidley
Plastic tube from switch to motor is very brital don't know how I can clean it - Albert Bonneveld Water 4/6/12
Albert, don't even try to clean that brittle plastic line that transmits water pressure from the pump system to the pressure control switch. If the line is brittle the risk is a break and a building leak or flood. Just turn off the pump, remove the line, take it to your local hardware store to match its size and length, and install a new one.
I have 3/4 HP Sta Rite Pump that will not stop running. I have installed a new 30 to 50 pressure switch and 0 to 100 PSI gage. No leaks in the system. Pressure tube is clear. Bladder tank is set at 27 psi. Pump will build pressure to 55 PSI and will not stop running with all valves shut. - Gary S 4/22/12
Gary, as you installed a new 30/50 psi switch, and report pump keeps runnng at 55 pzi, i suspect some one or combination of
Switch cutout set abov 55 psi
Bad pressure gauge
A well with limited recovery rate
Start by checking wiring and switch adjustments.
Keep us posted, it will help others
I have just recentlyreplaced my well expansion tank and pressure switch. Now my deep well pump continues to pump without shutting off. I have checked for leaks in my home and two outbuildings that also share the same well but everything is tight and there are no leaks. I have also shut the valve on the discharge pipe closest to where the water exits the expansion tank.
By doing this it allows the pressure to build to approximately 50 lbs at which point the pump does shut off but then it almost immedietly starts losing the pressure and drops to approximately 20lbs at which point the pump restarts.
The oddest thing is that while I'm near my expansion tank which is located in my basement I can hear a very loud gurgling noise coming through the plastic pipe that encases the electrical wires that are hooked up to my underground well pump/shaft. The gurgling is happening at almost precisely the same time, coinciding almost exactly with when I'm losing the pressure! - Ken in Jersey 5/10/12
Sounds like a bad check valve or foot valve - is water running backwards from the pressure tank into the well each time the pump shuts off?
Pump runs every 7 minutes when valve to outside water is on. Seems OK when I turn the valve off -= but have to keep turning it on when i need to use the hose outside. Can you tell me who to call? Plumber, well drilling company, irrigation company? Please help!!!! - Carolyn Muldowney 7/3/12
I'm confused Carolyn, it seems proper that to run water at an outside hose you'd need to turn water supply on to that fixture. And if you are running water outside continuously, it seems normal that the pump would cycle on at 7 minute intervals. If something is nonetheless wrong with your equpiment, I'd start with a plumber.
i have a well pump with a relief valve in the line just outside the well pipe. when i run water in the house the relief valve open and dumps some water. does this indicate i have a tank problem? - Bob S 7/7/12
Check the water pressure when the valve is spilling. Also, water hammer can cause spillage at the relief valve.
I'm having problems with my Jet Pump, it continually kicks on and off for 1-4 seconds every 30 seconds or so and I am wondering what the cause of this may be. I have no water turned on and there are no leaks I have been able to detect. I have a shallow well, and the pressure seems fine at the tank.
Any suggestions on possible causes? - Glenn 7/19/12
If you have no water running in the building AND can actually turn off water into the building and the pump keeps cycling on and off then it sounds as if there is either a bad foot valve or check valve or a leak in well piping. I'm assuming there are no visible leaks above ground.
That very short well pump on-time is sometines traced to a clogged water filter or a collapsed bladder in a water pressure tank.
I have a 750 ft deep well, goulds 3 HP pump...well and pressure tank together 100 feet below home site. Only have a trickle inside of home. I have about 45 psi at well...turn on one faucet it drops to zero. pump will run all the time if allowed. Have 30-50 pressure switch. Diagnosed as bad impeller...must pull well pump.
NO leaks detected. Pulling 12.5 amps...motor sounds smooth. Technician said I should have about 80 # pressure on guage with the 3 HP at 750 feet. Do you agree with his diagnosis? Thank you so much. - Anon 7/31/12
Yes, Anon. I agree that you ought to see good pressure in the house; IF there are no well pipe leaks and the system can't develop pressure it makes sense to check the pump for damage; first you might want to check the wiring and voltage levels.
My well pump would hesitate for about a miniute before coming on, while running water. I replaced the pressure switch and now the pump will not shut off. It builds up to 90 to 100 psi , but keeps running. I put a second switch on and it does the same thing. Both pressure
switches were new. Any idea? Pressure in my expansion tank builds to 50+ lbs. while pump is running. - Larry 7/31/12
Larry quite often a delay like that is due to clogging at the pressure sensing port of the pressure control switch, or the tube that feeds it. If you replaced the switch but left a clogged pressure line in place the problem would remain.
Have a well pump that began to run continuously after a recent storm and no pressure builds in the system BUT an apparent pressure relief valve on the pump body emits a high pressure stream of water. Doesn't seem like a loss of prime with the high pressure stream but the system pressure is zero while all this is going on. Any thoughts? - John 8/1/12
(Nov 7, 2015) larry said:
2 pipe f&w pump not used for 2 years, filled pump with water, pump will build a very small pressure will not really build or pull any water from the well to fill the storage tank,(new bladder tank)I have cleaned out control regulator, still no change open the prime tube pipe to refill but it only took maybe a ounce of water to top it off, turn pump back on it never builds any more than small pressure, tried opening supply valve slow to bleed off any air but can never fill the bladder storage.
John, our best guesses for a pump that won't stop are in WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING, but your comment about the problem showingup after a storm suggest that a pump control or switch or wire may have been damaged by a power surge or lightning. The opening of the pressure relief valve is consistent with a pump that is not shutting off and is overpressurizing the system.
"System pressure at zero" makes me think your pressure gauge is not working.
Double check that the pressure control switch is properly sensing water pressure - as if it is not, say due to dirt clogging of its sensor port - it could keep the pump running forever.
Larry: my first thought was that you're not giving the pump enough prime water. Search InspectApedia for "PRIME THE PUMP" to see 2 methods to fix the issue.
But on reflection, if the priming chamber is staying full, and provided we haven't forgotten to open a valve somewhere to let the pump send water to the tank, then I'd be looking for a damaged pump impeller or a clogged screen not allowing water to flow into the pump (such as a clogged well screen at the foot valve). Usually this latter issue gets worse over time rather than happening suddenly.
This past Wednesday my Mom noticed the pump contiuously running. Sunday when i get there I notied the contacts in the pressure switch looked burnt. i replaced the pressure switch but the pump still won't shut off.
1) Water is running in the house
2) the well isnt dry
3) there's were not wet spots on the ground between the pump and house
4) there's no water under the house
5) we pulled out the pipe from the well and saw no holes
6) adjusted the pressure and it stil wont turn off
7) the pressure is holding at 30psi
8) the pump is a Star-Rite 1/3hp serial: s48h2ec11 model: 6d81
9) the motor house was hot to the touch
HELP ....im at a loss...Thanks - Derrick 8/6/12
First shut off all water into the house - so we can be sure that the house demand is not causing the pump to run.
Then shut off the pump power switch and watch the pressure gauge. If the pressure drops, there is a leak somewhere between house water pressure tank and well bottom.
If the pressure holds then I suspect the pressure control switch or wiring. IF your water has sediment or debris, clogging can occur not only on the sensor port on the bottom of the pressure control switch but also in the mounting nipple or tube that conducts water pressure to the switch from the pressure tank/piping.
The hot motor is normal for a pump that is not shutting off.
keep us posted
I replaced my jet pump, foot valve and all lines from jet pump down to foot valve 3 years ago. Well maybe 50' deep and the pump is a 1/3 hp pump, that's what was there originally. After replacing all this the pressure would not build above 25psi and sit there and the pump ran continuously. after a while of adjusting the pressure switch I managed to get the pump to shut off at 25psi.
At this point the pump began to work well, cutting on at almost 0psi and cutting off @ 25psi. This was not perfect but it did the job.
This past weekend the pump stopped cutting off automatically. With adjustment I got it to stop running but then it wouldn't turn on just on-off-on-off.
I replaced the pressure switch and same thing. Sometimes when I shut off the pump, manually, the pressure would instantly drop to 0psi, sometimes it will hold @ 25psi, and still other times it will drop to 0psi and then over a couple of seconds build to 20-25psi, while pump is shut off. I shut off the valve between the pressure tank and the rest of the house and the pressure did not drop, over 5-10 min.
Please help, this pump not automatically shutting off is driving me crazy. Sorry for the long post. - Mike 8/15/12
Intermittent occurrence of sudden dropping pressure suggests a sticky check valve or foot valve.
We live on a hillside. I have city water that is sent through a Goulds V250 tank and a 1.5 HP pump to boost the pressure before it heads into the house. The pump began cycling continually and drastically spiked our electric bill. I replaced the switch and discovered the neck was corroded and I assumed this was not allowing the water pressure to signal it to cycle off.
After replacing the switch, it is still cycling continuously. None of the suggestions above seem to fit. Any thoughts? Thank you for your time. - Oscar 8/31/12
Oscar, did you replace the tubing that conducts pressure to the pressure control switch? It may be clogged.
We have a shallow well double hose system but total hose reaches approximately 65 feet from well bottom to pump. Our pump keeps running and will only reach 25 psi. The pressure does not drop. We have tried turning off the valve where the water comes into the house, still no pressure loss. Have not touched the pressure control switch. we have had the pipes out and have not noticed any significant leakage.Great water pressure coming out of the tap. What do you recommend further. thanks joe - Anon 9/2/12
If you have "great water pressure" but the pump gauge only says 25 psi (and pump keeps running) perhaps both the pressure gauge and the pump pressure control switch sensors are clogged with rust or debris.
i have a shallow well pump that will not shot off so i turned the power off and the next morning i had to prime it and it still will not shut off - Dallas 9/22/12
Dallas, I'd start by going through the "well pump won't shut off" diagnostic suggestions in WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING - as that list is our best advice.
Loss of prime is consistent with a pump that just keeps running: if the pump can't maintain prime (say from a bad foot valve or a leaky well line) then the pump motor will just keep spinning away forever - which is a great way to burn up the pump motor or damage the impeller assembly.
IF the pump was primed and running and was delivering water BUT then lost prime after you turned it off manually, I suspect a leak in the well piping or a leaky check valve or foot valve.
My water pump suddenly stopped keeping water pressure in our cottage.
The pipe down to the lake stays primed. The pump stays mostly primed. The pressure tank does not seem to be getting any water at all. The pump is not moving water out and into the cottage system.
This started happening suddenly. The pump does not turn off, or reach full pressure - it hovers around 20psi, struggles to get to 30psi. If a tap is turned on in the cottage, the pressure immediately drops to zero and the water flow ceases.
The pump and pressure tank are both new this summer, and had been working. Thanks for any thoughts. - Sandra 10/8/12
As an update, it seems we've had air in our lines. Some new connections we made this summer putting in a new pump and pressure tank and foot valve were ridiculously loose when we double-checked them yesterday. It must be that they were installed on a hot day, and now it is much cooler, getting close to freezing at night.
I have no idea if that is possible, but the connections were finger-loose surprisingly.
We're almost back up to normal, but on taking a shower, pressure started out beautiful then backed off by almost half. Water continued to run during the shower, and the pump turned itself off after the shower, perhaps we just still have a bit more air in there. Much thanks. - Sandra 10/9/12
At the risk of posting too many messages, we're so lost at figuring this out, I'm going to risk it. :)
Last night, after not using the water for a couple of hours, turning on the taps produced no water at all, not even a hiss of air. Turned things off to look at it in the morning.......the pump still had prime, the line to the lake still has prime. Turned the pump on, but the pressure gauge didn't react at all. Nothing.
I've now duct taped every brand new connection, the same reaction, even when a tap was opened, that didn't help draw water.
Tried a 3rd time and the pressure gauge reacted and the system sounded like it was filling up, i.e. water was coming into the toilet. But before the pump cycled off, there is no water coming out of the taps again, nor a hiss.
The system was working for a couple of months, and suddenly lost pressure the first time when a shower was being run. I'd appreciate any thoughts on this. Thank you. - Sandra 10/10/12
Sandra, I'd go step by step through the table above.
Your statement "The pump stays mostly primed. The pressure tank does not seem to be getting any water at all. " is confusing. If the pump is not staying COMPLETELY primed then there may be a leak in the water supply piping or foot valve; or the pump itself may be damaged and is unable to deliver water.
We have a Sears horizontal tank and fittings (probabaly installed in the late 1950s. We also have a Sears Air Volume Control. Some months ago we have come home after being away for several weeks to find the toilet had been running constantly because the ball cock malfuctioned, this led to the water pump running constantly.
Now the water pump will run for one half to one quarter of an hour or until I manually shut it off. Some times to restart sometimes not.Im not very handy so when I have it serviced what should I beware of by way of someone taking advantage of me ? - Al 10/26/12
Unfortunately Al, when a water pump runs for a very long time continuously, for days or longer, and if the problem is not that you ran the well dry, it's possible that the pump itself has become damaged. I'd pull the pump and inspect for damage to the bearings or impeller assembly.
I have a jet pump(jacuzzi) pressure switch is 20-40. Thought the switch was bad,so we replaced it. Now the pump just wants to run,will jump up to 55-60.have good water pressure,just wont shut off.have turned it ,it is on factory settings,even with the power off,it is holding at times to 70psi. but if we turn the power on, the pump will not shut off.
we do have a bladder tank,it has the recommended pressure of 30 in it. any ideas Y.R. 10/26/12
Have you tried replacing the pressure control switch? Often this problem is due to a switch that is not sensing the increase in water pressure.
(May 19, 2014) howard said:
I have myers 3/4 hp pump that is hooked to a well point that Is 13 foot down in the basement of my house the pumpis hooked u to a 85 gallon holding tank from that I water my lawn and it all has worked fine usually can run at 4o psi and the pump shuts on and off at 30 then 50 ... all has worked fine in the past however, now the pump will not get over 28 ps
i (tank pressure and will not go high enough to cycle on and off.. the pump I sine I just too it to the shop and had it checked out... there was a new sleeve they put in and cleaned it out etc...
I hooked it back up and no luck... I would suspect there is an air leak down in the point that is causing the problems... I have taken the point up many times in the past and don't want to have to go through it again... Question is there any kind of sealant etc. that I can use to eliminate the air problem is that is the problem. thanks for the help
Howard there may be such a product but I haven't found it.
Using a driven point well and 85g storage tank to water a lawn sounds like an iffy design to me, unless the lawn is tiny and the watering infrequent. More likely you're over-taxing the well, which speeds the rate at which the driven point strainer tends to clog.
When a pump can't reach cut-off pressure and you suspect there's cavitation due to air in the system indeed you'd want to find and replace the leaky part. With frequent pulling and replacing of the well point and piping I'd look out for leaks at ABS/PVC pipe connectors that have been re-used.
Sometimes we can fix such a leak by adding a second stainless steel hose clamp on both sides of the fitting; experienced plumbers don't like to re-use those connections just for this reason - they leak.
Other causes of a pump not reaching cutoff pressure include a worn or damaged impeller and even low voltage.
Keep me posted
(June 23, 2014) jessi said:
My water pump won't build pressure pass 20 lbs. When we turn on the faucet it drops to 10 lbs then gradually climbs back up to 18 lbs and there it stays, and when the water is turned off the pump continues to run. We have checked for leaks and open faucets and have found none.please help!
(Sept 17, 2014) Anonymous said:
I have a jet pump with 2 lines , the pump will pump from zero to 32 and it stays there , and wont shut off , I replaced a new preasure switch , same result, u know my problem, thanks
(Oct 10, 2014) Rose said:
i have just moved to a old bungalow and i have turned on the hot water, then turned off and then the water pump startas coming on at 5.30, and then 7.30 and then other times, what is going on, when the switch is turned off for both water and heating.
When a pump can't reach pressure some of the reasons are listed in the articleWATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING. In the case you descibe you'd consider and look for:
- a damaged pump impeller assembly
- low voltage
- a leak in well piping
- low well flow rate that is not supplying water to the system
- water running in the building faster than the pump can supply
Continue reading at WATER PUMP WONT STOP: FAQs-3 or select a topic from closely-related articles below, or see our complete INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES below.
Or see WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH to shut off a pump to prevent burn-up
Or see WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING how to fix a pump that won't shut off, home page
Or see WATER PUMP WONT STOP: FAQs - first set of Q&A on a pump that won't turn off
Or see WATER PUMP DIAGNOSTIC TABLE a concise guide to diagnosing and fixing water pumps
Or see WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE - home
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