FAQs on the definition & explanation of well pump drawdown volume & typical drawdown cycle time.

This article series explians how to diagnose & correct water pump intermittent cycling "on-off" when no water is (known to be) running in a building. Well pump & water tank off-use cycling or water pump turning on-and-off: diagnosis & repair procedures.

This article series explains how to diagnose & repair water pump cycling problems like short cycling, intermittent cycling, continuous pump operation, or well pump chattering.

Water Pump On-Off Cycling Rates & Water Draw-Down Time FAQs

These questions & answers about how long you should be able to run water before the pump turns on were posted originally at WATER PUMP DRAWDOWN VOLUME & TIME - be sure to review the explanation given there.

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On 2019-04-09 02:55:44.147253 by (mod) -

Anon

Thank you for asking. I should clarify as you request. By drawdown cycle I mean the amount of water that can be drawn before the pump has to turn on.

On 2019-04-09 02:49:52.888960 by Anonymous

"Normal well pump operation with a pressure tank will give a water volume draw-down cycle of 30 seconds to 1-2 minutes for a typical water pressure tank, or much longer if larger water pressure tanks or water storage tanks are installed."
What is "volume draw-down cycle"; the time it takes the pump to fill the tank at cut on up to cut off pressure? IOW the time a pump will be on (not how often)?

On 2019-04-01 13:41:07.404013 by (mod) -

Gary

I offer two contradictory answers:

1. A pump that is required to reach a higher cut-off pressure before it turns off - all else being equal - has to work a bit harder so might run a bit longer or a bit hotter, factors that *could* affect pump life.

2. However, As long as you are operating a water pump within the pressure range for which it is designed and more-important the duty cycle for which it's designed, the cut-off pressure range should not measurably affect the pump life.

See details at

WATER PUMP LIFE EXPECTANCY - https://inspectapedia.com/water/Well_Pump_Life.php where I'll repeat this Q&A as it fits that topic best

also see

WATER PUMP LIFE MAXIMIZATION - https://inspectapedia.com/water/Well_Pump_Life_Maximum.php how to get the longest life out of your well pump

and general pump capacities and operating ranges at

WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM https://inspectapedia.com/water/Well_Pump_Capacity.php

On 2019-04-01 00:10:39.707690 by Gary

Are low (20/40) or high (40/60) switch settings better or worse for pump life, and why?

On 2018-08-14 23:54:01.658002 by (mod) -

It's possible that the gauge is debris-clogged or faulty.

Make an independent water pressure measurement

see the suggestions at
WATER PRESSURE MEASUREMENT inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pressure_Measure.php

Watch out: if the water pressure is actually really very high - as your gauge claims, TURN OFF the PUMP immediately and remove pressure from the system (run water) - and leave the pump off while you wait for repair.

If you pressureize a tank above its rated pressure it could burst and injure someone or a pipe can burst and flood the building.

If the water pressure is actually normal then we figure it's the gauge - you'd just replace it.

On 2018-08-14 17:46:09.964514 by James

Anyone know what is going on when the cut in and cut off Square D is functioning as made ( it is new ) (40/60 PSI) and the pressure gauge ( it is also new) sometimes shows water pressure far in excess of the cut off psi of 60? The cut off does stop at 60 on the dial, but pressure continues to build as high as 90 in a few instances.

On 2018-06-25 11:10:52.801788 by (mod) -

Yes

On 2018-06-25 07:36:11.305891 by Julian

are you replying to me?

On 2018-06-25 04:15:28.575118 by (mod) -

Of course you could be something else with my first guess is a bad foot valve

On 2018-06-25 02:37:33.130795 by Julian

I just installed a new well-x-troll wx-251. my previous make was a cheaper craftsman 32 gallon tank that failed and began to rot after less than ten years and was undersized, in my opinion, for my home. . I piped and wired it in and runs fine. goes to pressure, drops and turns on at setting. it's 40/60 psi. I have a submersible jet pump. immediately after it shuts off, the hose, which is flexible, begins to shrink and constrict. comes back on fine and all but this is concerning. I checked the tank pressure before installing and it's at 37 psi. any idea what's causing this?

On 2018-04-30 23:14:42.828052 by (mod) -

I can't estimate that number from just your brief question. In fact I'm not sure what you're asking:

- how much water does a pump deliver per KWH? - Depends on many variables including pump design, efficiency, horsepower, voltage, wiring distances, pump lift head and more.

- how much hydroelectric power is used to pump water?

On 2018-04-30 22:23:24.332085 by Avel

What is the average hydro usage per kilowatt hour?

On 2017-01-10 15:53:49.673177 by (mod) -

If a pump is cycling on every few minutes either there is water running that you've not detected or there is a serious leak in the building piping somewhere, perhaps even outside or even in the well. A bad foot valve or bad check valve is, I agree, a very common explanation of this problem.

It's easy to distinguish between a leak or running water in the building vs. outside: turn off water into the building by closing the main supply valve between your water pressure tank and the building water supply piping.

If pressure continues to drop and the pump continues to cycle-on, then we know the problem is outdoors, perhaps in the well as we've discussed.

On 2017-01-10 05:26:03.824601 by Cody

My pump kept coming on every two-three minutes. After researching the possible problems I replaced the pressure switch and pressure gauge. No water comes out of the air pressure valve on the top of the tank when I test it. The problem continues. I shut the water supply to the house off and the pressure drops to the point the switch calls for water and the pump starts running for about two minutes then stops. After it stops the pressure drops again and and the intermittent pump cycling starts over again. Can I assume it's safe to say that either my foot valve or check valve need replacing?

Comments:

(Aug 3, 2014) Robert said:
This page helped me identify that my problem with intermittent pump cycling was due to a leaky foot valve. I really appreciate the availability of this kind of expertise.

Question:

(Mar 12, 2014) Mark said:

I would describe our problem as intermittent, (roughly hourly) short cycling, (5 seconds), when no water is being run in building. Normal long cycling also occurs during water use. I am suspecting clogged or defective pressure switch and will check that next. (Deep well, submerged pump, bladder tank)

Reply:

If you see water pressure below the cut in pressure try tapping on the switch. Clogging can indeed mess up switch operation.

Reader follow-up:

(Mar 13, 2014) Mark said:

I drained the bladder pressure tank, then when I aired it up, the air came out the drain, I concluded that the bladder was ruptured and replaced the tank, as well as the pressure switch, for good measure. However it is still doing intermittent short cycling, (5 seconds), when no water is being run in building, and no leaks have been discovered. When the pump recharges from 30 psi to 50 psi, it takes something like a minute. I don't understand the intermittent 5 second cycling.

Reply:

Mark, try turning off water into the building; if the system keeps intermittent cycling then we surmise there is a leak between the building and the well piping end inside the well itself.

Question:

(July 8, 2014) chris said:
recently upgraded my electric panel from 100 to 200 amp.Now that i have power turned back on my sub/pump(drilled well) has been running nonstop intermittent cycles.1st noticed it when showering,lost all pressure. turned the shower off for bout 5 seconds then back on and had full pressure again. My thoughts were that while the power was off (bout 8 hrs)i had lost my prime even though my gauges were still reading 45.I drained my tank charged it to 28lbs for my 30/50 switch just to eliminate 1 of the potential problems, and im holding the same charge of 45(guessing the switch was adjusted prevoiusly for that reading).when the pump cycles off i noticed i wasnt hearing the audible sound of the contacts releasing. took the cap of the p/switch and checked. the pump is turning off without the contacts realesing. the contacts are still mobile and dont look bad . other possibility is when the electric company came . they did back up bout ten feet from tire to well casing not sure if my line got squished??i dont think so because they were on the other side of the well.does the pipeing go from well direct to house??..any thoughts would be helpfull

Reply:

Chris

We would not expect an electrical panel upgrade to impact the operation of a well pump unless at the same time someone messed with the pump wiring & controls.

Losing prime, if you regain it, won't lead to intermittent cycling. Rather losing prime leads to the pump running continuously without delivering water (which can damage the pump).

I'd dig up that squashed well piping and look for a leak there. That could cause pressure drop and pump cycling.

Keep us posted

Question:

(July 12, 2014) Ashlee said:
I had always had issues with my well pump. 5yrs ago I replaced the whole line from my home to the well and even replaced the pump. There is a split on the line to my neighbours but that had always been there and the previous home owners never had an issue. My pump went from turn on (with no water running) every few minutes to almost every 30 secs. It turns on even if when the water is off to the rest of the house

Reply:

Ashlee there may be a leak in the well piping

Question: Pump kicks on when no water is running

(Aug 24, 2014) barbara said:
Pump kicks on when no water is running. Changed pressure switch and pressure tank. it is a submersible pump. Put cut offs in line where pipe comes out of well.When you turn t off pressure stays but when you cut it back on it sounds like it sucks back into the well

Reply:

Sounds like a leak in well piping or bad foot valve or check valve at the pump in the well. When you shut off the water line at the pressure tank, with a single pipe heading back down into the well, water does not quickly exit the pipe (just as an upside down soda bottle doesn't immediately pour out) as air also needs to enter the piping to displace the water leaving.

But when you turn on water between well piping and house there is a supply of pressurized water easily sending water back down into the well.

Then as pressure drops the pump cycles.

Of course I may be mistaken but that's a reasonable guess.

Question:

(Sept 15, 2014) John Esquibel said:
My well has run dry we can't drill new one so we have a 550 gallon tank and we got a water pump hooked to it and then it is hooked to one of the faucets in front of the house. I have installed a Check valve so that the water can't go back into the pump but the pump will still run on and off when nothing is running. There is no pressure tank so what can I do to fix this.

Reply:

John I want to help but I'm baffled by the description of your system.

Basically if a pump runs when you are not running water, you want to read the diagnostic article found above at

More Reading, titled: WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING

Question: I'm having intermittent water pump cycling

(Oct 7, 2014) Steve said:
I'm having intermittent water pump cycling. About every 4 minutes my pump will turn on for about 3 seconds. I checked for leaking pipes and running toilets but all appears normal. I'm guessing the problem lies somewhere between the well pump and pressure tank (tank is 7 years old). Any suggestions or way I can pin point exactly what the problem is?

Reply:

Steve if you turn off water into the building and the cycling continues you can bet that it's somewhere between pump and well - including possibly a leak at the pump itself, or the pressure tank.

(Oct 8, 2014) Steve said:
Thanks Dan. The pressure tank doesn't sound water logged. Nice and hollow sounding at the top. I checked the pressure switch and it's opening and closing as it should. Any suggestions on what to do next? Call a plumber right? Trying to educate myself as much as possible.

Reply:

Steve if you shut off water into the house then watch the pressure gauge - and if you see the gauge fall - then you know there's a leak. Perhaps a bad foot valve.

(Oct 9, 2014) Anonymous said:
Pressure gauge is shot Dan. Doesn't move at all. Have plumber coming over to diagnose.

Reply:

A stuck gauge, if the equipment runs, means the gauge needs replacement. Check for debris clogging at the gauge port too as that can also mean trouble for the separate pressure control switch.

(Oct 10, 2014) Steve said:
The pressure tank was drained and air pressure checked, 18 psi. He hooked an air compressor up to the tank and recharged it. Had the pressure gauge replaced. The problem is temporarily resolved as the gauge shows a slow loss of air pressure when water is not running to the house. The tank is an Amtrol Champion 32 gallon which is 8 years old. I gather there is a pinhole leak in the bladder and the tank will have to be replaced.

Question: short cycling

(Dec 21, 2014) Tom Butler said:
I replaced pressure switch and found no water coming out of the bladder tank air inlet, but it is still short cycling. It is coming on at about 40lbs and shutting off at about 60

Reply:

Tom

A more subtle bladder tank failure is a small leak between bladder and air chamber. If that has occurred you may have a partly water-logged pressure tank but since air is still in the top of the tank, pressing the pin in the air valve there won't show water.

If you drain all water from the tank and it's still heavy or sloshes it's got water trapped in the air chamber.

in the more-reading links just above see

WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING - home

Question: losing prime

(Jan 7, 2015) Louie King said:
I do not think my bladder tank has enough water holding in it Air pressure is fine and no water coming out of air valve. Pressure switch seams to come on quick 30/50 setting I'm thinking maybe check valve problem

Reply:

Louie check valve problems often result in loss of prime.

Question:

(Feb 19, 2015) chrisrobb60 said:
I have a pressurised potable water system for my house. The pump operates for a few seconds every 1-2 minutes. The pressure switch seem to operate correctly. The water is supplied to the pump via an atmospheric storage tank. There is no leakage within the house from any appliances, toilets, etc. There's a check valve between the tank and the pump. With the osolation valves to the house all closed the pump still opeates as per above. Is the problem the check valve?

(Feb 17, 2015) Adele said:
Well water pump runs exactly every two minutes, regardless if water is on or off. Replaced water tank & guage

Reply:

Chris:

Sounds like a failed foot valve or check valve or a leak in well piping

Adele, same as my prior comment to Chris

...

Continue reading at WATER PUMP DRAWDOWN VOLUME & TIME - topic home, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

Well Pump Articles

• FOOT VALVES, WELL PIPING
• PUMP PRIME, REPEATED LOSS of
• WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM
• WATER PUMP DRAWDOWN VOLUME & TIME
• WATER PUMP INTERMITTENT CYCLING
• WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR
• WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING
• WATER PUMP TYPES
• WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING
• WELL FLOW RATE
• WELL FLOW TEST PROCEDURE - how much water can we get from the well?

Suggested citation for this web page

WATER PUMP DRAWDOWN VOLUME & TIME FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

Or see this

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS

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