Water Pressure Stops, Returns - FAQs

Q&A: Water Pressure that Stops, Recovers on its Own

Water Pump Failure Causing Intermittent Water Pressure Loss

We have intermittent water pressure loss; we've replaced some of the wiring and all of the piping

Since the well had been opened-up, yes, the pump and all of the wiring and all of the piping in the well were all replaced.

The underground wiring to the house was not. The piping was replaced because the original was flexible black-plastic piping that was, obviously, 31 years old, and the new piping is rigid white-plastic piping in 20-foot sections.

As the problem was intermittent, and indeed we went through the whole month of July without incident after the well-pump switch was replaced in late June, I'll let you know in a month or two if the new pump has solved everything. On 2017-08-27 by Frank

by (mod) - here's a list of what may be the problem

Frank,

Normally a wrong tank pressure wouldn't cause an intermittent water delivery problem, unless the pressure was right at a pressure-switch cut-in threshold that fouled up the sensor switch operation. In that uncommon case, even temperature variations or simple mechanical disturbance could turn the problem on and off.

Intermittents can often be

- a bad electrical connection, loose screw or connector, damaged wiring enroute to pump

- a damaged winding in a pump motor

About having replaced the pump:, wiring, and piping:

Both of those should disappear if both pump and wiring and all connectors were renewed. Let's hope that was the situation here. I agree that I wouldn't gripe about replacing a 31 year old pump. Without more expert testing of the pump motor, one understands why a plumber would just put in a new one.

But if the problem recurs then there's probably a wiring or control problem not yet found. Do let me know.

WATER PRESSURE STOPS, RETURNS  lists other reasons for intermittent water pressure loss.

There you'll see suggestions for diagnosing a suspect well pump listed under the bullet Well pump motor is overheating.

Followup by Frank - water pump replacement solved the original problem.

This follows-up my posting on August 27. Our new well pump continues to function perfectly, and the pump replacement has solved the original problem.

That problem was that we sometimes lost our water supply for up to 30 seconds when the old pump was switched-on, after which the water returned and the pump-on/pump-off cycle was normal for days at a time except at the end, when we had this failure about once a day.

I'm glad our 31-year-old pump failed "softly" like that, such that we never lost our water for more than 30 seconds before we had the pump replaced.

Sometimes the Water Pump Won't Run; Pressure Switch is New

Water pump does not always turn on - it's not the pressure switch

I was having issues with the well not coming on all the time and thought the pressure switch might be going bad.

I replaced the pressure switch with a like one (30-50). The same issue is still occurring. The well will not come on and when the pressure drops below 30. It does this erratically, sometimes it will work other times it will not come back on.

Sometimes it goes up to 50psi and shuts off other times it cuts off at 40. I have to manually engage the pressure switch to get it running again. When it shuts off it holds the pressure and does not drop until the water is actually turned on. (July 9, 2014) Erich

Reply:

Erich

When you replaced the pressure control switch, if you left an existing small-diameter mounting tube for the switch or small diameter pressure-sensing tube between the switch and the pump that might explain the switch not responding to a drop in water pressure.

Also check for a pressure gauge that is itself not responding to pressure changes (try tapping on it gently) as the gauge too can become clogged.

Erratic Water Pressure: Very High, Low, or Zero

When water pressure gets to 50 psi it drops quickly to zero and sticks there. I've already changed the pressure control switch.

As soon as water pressure hits like 50 lbs. It drops at a really fast pace till it hit 0 and stays there supposed to kick back on at 40lbs. I've already changed switch and pressure gauge like 3 times and no difference - any ideas? On 2018-08-21 by Mike

by (mod) - here are the main causes of this problem:

Mike

Thanks for an interesting question. I might start by looking for

- debris clogging in the small diameter tube or pipe that conducts water pressure to the pressure control switch, causing the switch to fail to respond to water pressure drop. That would explain why your pump doesn't turn on at the pressure switch CUT-IN pressure. So if you changed the pressure switch but didn't replace the tubing connecting pump pressure to the switch bottom, this could be the trouble.

- a check valve that is failing and then opensto let water flow back into the well at 50 psi

Water pressure is fine for 20 minutes, then stops for 20 minutes, then returns by itself

My water works fine for about 20 minutes then goes totally out for about 20 minutes then comes back by itself. I replaced the submersible pump, the bladder tank, pressure gauge. But still acts the same. I'm just puzzled about what it could be. Any help? Thank you. On 2016-09-28 by Richard

by (mod) -

Could be the well runs out of water ( a well with a poor flow rate) combined with a pump protection switch that is turning off your pump when it senses that the pump isn't moving water.

See WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH and other pump protection devices for an explanation of how that switch works and to help you see if you have one on your pump.

Then see WELL FLOW TEST PROCEDURE - how can a homeowner or home buyer make a simple well water quantity test

Water pressure jumps around: way too high, then drops to a trickle or stops entirely.

We have a strange water pressure problem. Our well is very deep and was working just fine until earlier this year. For some reason the water pressure jumps around, getting too high (sometimes all the way up to 100) and staying there for a while before gradually going down. If we run the hose or the shower for too long, the pressure goes down.

It will go down to a low trickle and even stop.

Pressure has gotten all the way down to 8 but climbs back to around 50 on its own. We tried draining the tank and repressurizing it a few times and it didn't solve the problem. We replaced a corroded capacitor and that didn't work either. Nothing seems to make sense and the pressure keeps changing intermittently.

What do you think it is? Any help would be much appreciated! On 2016-07-30 by Bronte Austin

by (mod) -

Bronte,

Watch out: high water pressure such as you describe is dangerous: it can burst a water tank or pipe, not only flooding the building but also injuring someone nearby.

I suspect the pressure control or its tubing is clogged with silt and debris.

I would replace the pressure control switch and be sure that the mounting tube or small-diameter pipe that conducts water pressure to the switch base is not debris clogged.

by Bronte Austin

We replaced the pressure control switch and it didn't fix the problem. Actually it's getting worse. The pressure goes down really fast and slowly builds back up but rarely goes above 50 now. We run the water for even a little bit and we lose pressure really fast. PLEASE HELP!! This is so stressful.

by (mod) - pump won't stop

I am seeing some conflicting clues to this pump problem, Bronte.

Bad check or foot valve? Pressure falling quickly after the pump has shut OFF suggest that there is a bad foot valve or check valve that needs replacement (water is flowing back out of the water tank into the well) OR there is a well piping leak OR there is water running from a fixture or a burst pipe in the building.

Bad wiring or voltage or water leaks or damaged pump: Pressure that never builds up to the switch CUT OUT pressure suggests any of several problems: low voltage, leaky pipes, water running, low water in the well, damaged pump impeller;

See WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING - why the pump won't turn off - to read a detailed list of reasons that a pump can't reach a normal (say 50 psi) cutoff pressure.

A debris-clogged pressure switch OR debris-clogged tubing that conducts water pressure to the switch can also cause erratic pump behaviour as the switch may not consistently nor correctly sense the actual water pressure.

This problem can also cause a switch to fail to turn the pump OFF when it should, resulting in sometimes abnormally or even dangerously high water pressure. I don't want to see actual pressure in the 100 PSI range as that could blow out a tank or pump and even injure or kill someone nearby.

When you replaced the switch did you check for crud in the connecting water tubing? Is your water high in sediment?

Solution by Bronte Austin - Our wiring was incorrect as it turns out.

We did check for anything in the connecting pipes and it was clean. Our water is not high in sediment and never has been. Our wiring was incorrect as it turns out. Whoever did it before we moved in wired it to keep power running to the pump constantly.

Today we changed that and wired it correctly. It seemed like the problem was fixed but tonight we lost pressure again.

by (mod) - running a pump constantly

Of course running a pump constantly also invites damage to the pump and exhausting the well.

Water Pressure Loss, Recovers On Its Own

Why did our water pressure recover when we didn't do anything but wait?

I experienced low pressure yesterday that later recovered on its own.

The pressure cut in and cut outs on the switch on the pressure tank are at 30 and 50 PSI. Observing the pressure gauge on the tank, the pressure had dropped to only 20 PSI, and would decline to 10 psi (with a tap open to observe) before the pump would come on, but then the pump would cut out shortly afterat perhaps 20 PSI, before reaching 50 psi.

(The pump is at the bottom of the well, but I can hear the water in the pipe when it is running.) I thought the switch had somehow lost it's adjustment, so I took the cover off and watched the location of the contacts. Even though the pump wasn't running at 20 PSI, the contacts were closed and, in case the contacts were bad, I measured the voltage in the wires actually going out to the pump, and it showed 240 volts.

I didn't run anything for a while and the pressure recovered, but then the problem reoccurred later in the day. I woke up this morning, and the tank showed the full 50 psi, and after I showered without any loss of pressure, the tank showed the full 50 PSI. I don't think it could be the well going dry because my well is pretty deep and it has been a wet summer so far. Any idea what might be happening? (June 27, 2011) John

Reply:

It sounds as if the water level in your well or the well recovery rate had dropped; if it were a piping leak or a control problem I wouldn't expect the water pressure to recover on its own.

See WELL FLOW TEST PROCEDURE - to perform a simple well water quantity test

 

Water pump works for hours then shuts off for hours

My system will run fine for 3 or 4 hours then shut off for about the same amount of time, then run properly for 3 or 4 hours. Not exactly like clockwork, and I've never plotted it. Could be temperature control, I'm guessing, or very slow leak, but I would suspect something in the control circuit, not tank. Any ideas? Thanks (Sept 20, 2012) Mike B

Reply:

Mike, usually an overheating water pump that goes off on thermal reset will recover much sooner than 3-4 hours, though another reader reported a similar problem that he traced to a bad thermal reset switch in the pump itself.

The other cause is exhausting water in the well: a pump protection switch turns off the pump until the well has recovered.

I'm not sure how a leak would be intermittent.

See WELL FLOW TEST PROCEDURE