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Horizontal drywall runs (C) D Friedman Eric GalowHow to Remove or Encapsulate Asbestos-Drywall & Joint Compound
What to do if you suspect your drywall contains asbestos

  • POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about the level of asbestos found in drywall or drywall mud (drywall joint compound) on walls & ceilings.

What's the best way to manage drywall or "sheetrock" containing or suspected of containing asbestos?

This article series explains where asbestos is likely to be found in gypsum board or drywall systems, particularly in the taping compound and in skim coats using drywall "mud" that contained asbestos.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?

Drywall & Joint Compound Asbestos Remediation - How to Cover or Remove Asbestos-Containing Drywall or Joint Compound

Modern drywall and taping compound do not contain asbestos.

Drywall systems that may contain asbestos - at least in finishes, taping joint compounds, skim coats, or in systems that applied plaster over gypsum board date from about 1910 through the early 1980's in North America (1982 in Canada).

Taping drywall joints dates from as early as the 1920's. Asbestos-use in plaster overlaps this period.

Watch out: do not disturb asbestos-suspect drywall materials; it's generally safest to leave such materials alone or to cover them. If demolition or removal is required, then the additional steps discussed here are pertinent.

Test Asbestos-Suspect Drywall?

  1. No Asbestos Test Needed:

    If building materials in your home aren’t damaged and won’t be disturbed, you do not need to have your home tested for asbestos    . - EPA
  2. Asbestos Test Recommended:

    IF in an older building (built before 1980 in North America) you are not sure if drywall or gypsum board or drywall joint compound used in your building contains abestos

    AND if the drywall must be disturbed so as to create a dust hazard, such as demolition or power-sawing,

    THEN you should have a certified asbestos test lab examine representative samples of both the drywall (usually does not contain asbestos) and samples of the joint compound (found in greatest quantity at drywall sheet joints and often containing asbestos).

See ASBESTOS TESTING LAB LIST

Watch out: Keep in mind that even if it contains no asbestos, drywall and joint compound dust creates ultra-fine particles that can be a serious respiratory hazard.

Don't Attempt an Amateur Drywall Removal If it Contains Asbestos

Watch out: because drywall dust and joint compound dust is easily airborne and easily made friable (by sanding, cutting, sawing or other demolition operations) our best advice and opinion is that you should not try a do-it-yourself asbestos-containing drywall removal project.

Nevertheless if you live in an area where homeowner removal or repair of asbestos-containing drywall is permitted and you insist on attempting the work yourself, take appropriate steps for dust control and personal protection, such as using thorough wetting procedures and using damp mopping and damp wiping for cleanup.

Turn off and protect all air handling equipment (air conditioners, furnaces, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, fans) before disturbing asbestos-containing materials.

Do not use a conventional vacuum cleaner as it will aerate asbestos particles. Some HEPA-rated vacuum cleaners may also fail to handle asbestos and may increase airborne asbestos levels.

Beware that while the asbestos content in drywall (uncommon) or joint compound (common) may be relatively low, some spray-on popcorn or textured ceiling treatments can be very high in asbestos content, up to 40% or even more.

Typical Drywall Removal Procedure for Small Jobs

A "small job" can be considered disturbing or removing less than one square metre of drywall where asbestos-containing joint-compound was used.

  1. Use of a respirator fitted with new or tested P100 filtered cartridges and disposable coveralls is optional for small removal jobs
  2. Install a poly drop sheet beneath the work area using duct tape
  3. Mist the drywall to be removed concentrating on corners and any areas where seams are visible or suspected to be present
  4. Continue to mist any suspect material as work progresses
  5. Dispose of all waste material as regular construction debris (asbestos waste disposal might be required depending on where you live).

Is water alone an adequate wetting agent? Possibly not. Many of the asbestos-drywall removal articles we reviewed advise using a wetting agent to reduce the surface tension of water, improving its wetting and penetrating properties.

An amended water solution can often be made simply by adding one cup of dishwasher detergent to 20 liters of water.

Typical Drywall Removal Procedure for Larger Jobs & Drywall Demolition

  1. Shutdown the HVAC system affecting the work area. Cover all HVAC vents and diffusers.
  2. Don approved respirator (fitted with new or tested P100 filtered cartridges) and disposable coveralls
  3. Mist the drywall to be removed concentrating on corners and any areas where seams are visible or suspected to be present

    See ASBESTOS REMOVAL, WETTING GUIDELINES
  4. Continue to mist any suspect material as work progresses
  5. Control dust in area by misting fallen debris
  6. Dispose of all waste material as regular construction debris (asbestos waste disposal is or is not required, depending on where you live and what codes apply).

    Note: Special waste disposal or air monitoring may be required for this type of work, or a duly authorized asbestos work permit is required, depending on where you live and what codes apply).

Encapsulate Exposed Asbestos-Suspect Drywall Edges in Good Condition

1976 Drywall in NYC may contain asbestos - seal edges (C) InspectApedia.com MikeQuestion:

2019/04/26 Mike said:

My closet has some exposed drywall that has not been painted over.

The exposed part is on the 1/2 inch side of the drywall. Sometimes the drywall crumbles into pieces of dust.

The home was built in 1967 in New York. Should I be worried about asbestos exposure?

If so, would taping over the area or perhaps painting over it with primer be sufficient to encapsulate it? Thank you.

Reply:

Mike,

Since it is *possible* that U.S. drywall from 1976 (or joint compound such as visible in your photo at a drywall joint) can contain asbestos, I cannot bet your health or your worry (itself a health concern) on a mere e-text other than to say sure - let's do something easy:

paint over the exposed edges or even better, paint the exposed drywall edges, then enclose the area in neat wood trim.

While there are special asbestos-encapsulating paints sold for this purpose, in my OPINION just about any interior paint will seal the drywall edges just fine.

Paint alone will do a good job at avoiding simple dust shedding (though un-disturbed not much dust would shed in any case, perhaps not even a detectable amount), but adding wood trim will avoid damage in the future, improving the installation.

Really? The U.S. EPA notes that the potential hazard from asbestos-containing drywall or drywall coated with asbestos-containing joint compound occurs principally if the drywall is damaged.

That's because normally the asbestos-containing gypsum inside drywall is covered by the paper surface of the drywall itself along with subsequent layers of wallpaper or paint.

Source of the above: - U.S. EPA:

...


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Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

On 2022-06-04 by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - find and fix the leak

@Julie M,

Clearly there was a moisture or water source; we can see some rust staining in the surrounding surfaces.

Let us know your test results, but keep in mind that the total area involved here is trivial. Spray paint with lacquer primer sealer then repair with modern non-asbestos joint compound or drywall patch.

Find and fix the leak.

On 2022-06-04 by Julie M

Mold and moisture has worn away part of the drywall in my 1953 house. and this area around the window. This looks like rust, but it's not. I suspect asbestos and will get this tested today. Any thoughts on what this is?

Rust staining on drywall with moisture issues (C) InspectApedia.com JulieM

On 2022-04-17 by Katherine

Hello, when moving into our new apartment, our fridge scuffed some of our walls. Would you be able to tell me what this orange material is under the paint and should we be concerned. There are a few scuffs here and there, this is the deepest. We haven’t fixed it yet as it was apart of an insurance claim it’s now been nearly a year and as the scuffs are in a walk way I feel a bit concerned

On 2022-03-17 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - When was the production of drywall joint compound containing Asbestos stopped in the UK and Ireland?

@Oliver,

In Ireland, laws phasing out asbestos were first passed in 1994 and again 1998; a complete ban came into effect in 2004

For wall products, 2004 is the safest date but actually if your drywall was installed after 1994 it's not likely to have asbestos. To be certain you need accurate dates for your drywall or you need to have a sample tested.

On 2022-03-16 by Oliver

Hi, When was the production of drywall joint compound containing Asbestos stopped in the UK and Ireland? Thank you

On 2022-03-11 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - Is this UFFI and was UFFI used to encapsulate asbestos?

@Concerned Mom,

That does look like remains of a spray foam insulation, possibly UFFI.

UFFI was not used to encapsulate asbestos - in general - but of course across the near infinite range of human behaviour we can't say, based on a photo alone, just who did what at your building.

UREA FORMALDEHYDE FOAM INSULATION, UFFI

has more about that material

On 2022-03-10 by Concerned Mom

Is this UFFI and was UFFI used to encapsulate asbestos? It was snowing when they took this out. It was between the beams and had sort of shrunk down from all edges into whatever space it originally filled. There are also noticeable holes on the exterior to interior wall of the home.

I think that is consistent with it being sprayed in, if you will. Some of it was chunkier and some immediately dissolved into dust. I'm wondering how likely it is that this was used to encapsulate asbestos or if asbestos is part of what is in this mix of "stuff". Thank you, Concerned Mom

UFFI spray foam insulation (C) InspectApedia.com Concerned Mom

On 2021-12-09 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator

@Kate,

Nope. Cleanup and don't make another dusty mess.

Consider: which EVER way your third test comes back, then you have to vote on which tests you believe - or do more tests until you have enough with a conclusion that you believe. It's a sinkhole of uncertainty.

On 2021-12-09 by Kate

@Inspectapedia Com Moderator,

I'm a bit beside myself, to be honest (after years of thinking we were totally safe). Do you think it would be worth testing again?

On 2021-12-09 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - consider how small "less than 0.01%" really is and worry less

@Kate,

Frankly I hate this as much as you do.

I DO NOT KNOW and am ONLY GUESSING but I suspect that some labs, those who have expensive lawyers advising them on how to minimize their own liability, have decided to never report ZERO asbestos in any test sample. Instead they report ("less than 0.01 %") -

that's an extremely small number, one one hundredth of one percent. We write 1% in decimal numbers as 0.01 or one one hundredth of one percent as 0.0001 -

0.1% in decimal is 0.001
0.01% in decimal is 0.0001 or one one ten-thousandth

Not much

I'm impressed that anybody is actually able to reliably detect a particle at that level of concentration, but, then, I'm just a retired carpenter.

What's the risk: doubtful.

Here's what the US CDC ATSDR says

In 1986, OSHA in Standard 29 CFR 1910.1001 established the current permissible exposure limit (PEL) for asbestos in the workplace: (0.1 fibers/cc of air as a time weighed average) [OSHA 2012]. PELs are allowable exposure levels in workplace air averaged over an 8-hour shift of a 40 hour workweek. There are also OSHA standards (29 CFR 1915.1001) for shipyards and construction (1926.1101).

Additionally, OSHA standards (1915.1001 and 1926.1101) requires employers of all workers whose work exposes them to asbestos above the PEL or excursion limit (1.0 f/cc over 30-minute period) to

The following protections exist in the OSHA Standards:

Permissible Exposure Limit (PEL) for asbestos is 0.1 fiber per cubic centimeter of air as an eight-hour time-weighted average (TWA), with an excursion limit (EL) of 1.0 asbestos fibers per cubic centimeter over a 30-minute period.

The employer must ensure that no one is exposed above these limits. - https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/publications/OSHA3507.pdf

Now nobody with any sense can translate 0.01% concentration of asbestos fibers as a percent by volume of a sample of unspecified size that was in turn cut into an even more tiny sample to examine in the lab - into a concentration of airborne asbestos.

After all, your test samples were surely material samples - some sort of cut or punch or piece of actual drywall and mud from a wall or ceiling - of some unspecified size in dimensions of area and thickness or volume in cubic inches or centimeters.

If you want a more credible assessment of the asbestos hazard in the drywall and drywall-mud dust created during demolition you'd probably want to collect lab samples of the actual dust that is or was of concern and have the lab screen those for asbestos.

In any event, pretty much all demolition dust is bad to breathe: full of irritating particles and potentially other things you'd rather not inhale. You might want to focus on thorough cleaning up of dust: Damp wiping and HEPA vacuuming.

Remember that a drywall wall or ceiling or drywall mud sitting there on the wall or ceiling, when you're not grinding, chopping, sanding or otherwise disturbing it, isn't releasing a measurable amount of drywall dust, much less fibres in the drywall or mud.

So in my amateur OPINION the worry about the hazard of standing drywall or mud that is simply "exposed" (not being disturbed) is beneath detection, or in any event the health hazard from the worry is probably greater than the health hazard from the drywall sitting there minding its own business.

On 2021-12-09 by Kate

Hi guys! I'm in a real pickle. 3 years ago we had a full asbestos survey with a professional. He took 4 samples of joint mud/compound and sheetrock from different areas of our home and had them tested with an NVLAP lab.

They all came back fully negative. In the meantime, we've undertaken a number of projects that have disturbed the mud (adding windows, drywall work, removing walls, stripping wallpaper, etc.) assuming that we were in the clear with asbestos.

We were about to have some additional drywall work done, and decided to be extra safe and test a couple more joint compound samples from the area being addressed (I am *very* asbestos paranoid- we have a young child in the house).

Unfortunately, these samples came back positive for trace chrysotile (point count less than .01%). One of the samples that we took was from an area that had already tested negative.

I'm not even sure what to think and I'm definitely pretty upset about the threat to our health. We have multiple areas in the house where the joint mud is exposed. How serious is this situation? Which test do I believe?

On 2021-10-20 by inspectapedia.com.moderator

@Anonymous,

Normally painting is sufficient.

Leaks or flood conditions can certainly make a ceiling collapse but just humid conditions alone are not likely to cause such a problem for ceiling that is installed using normal fasteners and fastener intervals.

Naturally there are exceptions to the general rule so no one can give you a guarantee based simply on a text posted on the web page. For example if paint has been improperly applied over an improperly prepared surface, it may not adhere.

On 2021-10-19 by Anonymous

@inspectapedia.com.moderator, thank you so much! Would a humid environment cause a paint-coated popcorn ceiling to fall apart/expose potential hazard, and would it be better to encapsulate it or just leave it.

With encapsulation, I am nervous that it would somehow trap moisture and make it wetter. My brother has popcorn ceilings in his bathroom, that aren't painted, and they have all been peeling and falling off over the years.

On 2021-10-18 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod) - asbestos tests are accurate but perhaps unnecessary

@Anonymous,

Asbestos tests themselves, performed by a certified asbestos-test lab, are accurate.

Everything depends on where and how test samples are collected.

My OPINION is it is not cost justified to test walls for asbestos before driving in a nail to secure a typical picture hook or hanger.

Frankly I can often push in the nail with my thumb, or tap it gently with a hammer to drive it into drywall such that it is close to impossible to detect any dust shed by that procedure. We stick a small square of blue masking tape over the spot before driving the nail.

Furthermore, to be accurate, because joint compound appears in various locations at various thicknesses on a finished wall, you would have to test EVERY location at which you plan to drive a picture nail.

So you're spending $50 to $100. US to drive each picture hook nail into a wall in an effort to guess at the potential hazard of an amount of drywall dust that is probably beneath the limits of detection.

You would find asbestos testing justified if you were facing an extensive dusty demolition of parts of the building.

On 2021-10-18 by Anonymous

We are in the process of buying a house built in 1950 in Connecticut. From all I have read, it seems safe to assume there is some level of asbestos in the drywall and/or joint compound, as well as in the popcorn ceiling located in the bathroom. The popcorn ceiling has a thick coat of paint covering it, and all the walls are finished and painted, and there were renovations done to the wiring in the 90s that could have led to replacing drywall.

Is it worth it to do a sample test of any of the walls or ceilings if all we are planning to do is hang pictures with nails? Is a thick coat of paint enough to seal a popcorn ceiling in a humid environment like a bathroom? How accurate are these tests on average? Thanks in advance!

On 2020-02-16 - by (mod) - duct tape used to cover seams in fiberboard paneling

Duct taped fiberboard panels (C) InspectApedia.com readerAnon that [photo above] is certainly duct tape, not normal drywall tape - though it is applied to fiberboard, not drywall anyway.

Duct tape doesn't hold paint so well but in this application it was a shortcut that "worked" to cover the fiberboard seams for painting.

Behind is a wood fiberboard product. Search InspectAPedia.com for FIBERBOARD to see more information.

Or just hop over to SHEATHING, FIBERBOARD ASBESTOS CONTENT

On 2020-01-16 by Anonymous

Thought you’d be interested to see the back of the “tape” so I’m attempting to upload another photo.

This “tape” is about 1 1/2” which should provide scale for thickness of that “ceiling panel”...the “ceiling panels” are about 1/4” and waffled on the back. Somewhere in the ballpark of 18X24 dimension.

Very curious as to when this DIY job was done.

On 2020-01-07 3 by Anonymous

Glad to assist; working together helps us both.

On 2020-01-07 by Anonymous

Thank you so much! I’ve used your website and referred others here as well. Your generosity of time an knowledge is much appreciated.

On 2019-12-30 - by (mod) - duct tape used on fiberboard panels in a 1951 Oregon home

Anon

That green seam tape is not drywall tape (which is either paper or a fiberglass mesh); it looks like a type of duct tape.

Also from the photo - though a bit blurry - this looks to me like OSB or oriented strand board, not hardboard Masonite. Search InspectApedia.com (Use the on-page search box at the top or bottom of this page ) for MASONITE HARDBOARD for those details if needed.

Duct taped fiberboard panels (C) InspectApedia.com readerOn 2019-12-30 - by (mod) -

Anon

That green seam tape is not drywall tape (which is either paper or a fiberglass mesh); it looks like a type of duct tape.

On 2019-12-30 by Anonymous

Portland, OR home built in 1951.

At some point, someone decided to “finish” the basement ceiling with Masonite type boards and “sealed” the seams with tape and painted it all white.

I am wondering if this is drywall tape. It’s olive green, slightly shiny, and has fabric type threads.

On 2019-09-20 - by (mod) -

Bob:

What an interesting idea for dealing with asbestos-containing mud or drywall compound.

But I don't think trying to cut off the drywall surface is the best approach.

1. the width of joint compound in a professional drywall job can extend up to 18" or about 9" on either side of the drywall joint. so a 2" wide surface cut won't remove all of the material.

2. The same joint compound will have oozed deeply into any open butt joints between drywall sections, up to 3/4" depending on the drywall thickness, so a surface cut won't remove all of the material.

3. Cutting out joint compound, even working carefully, may create a greater dust or asbestos-containing compound dust than necessary in the first place.

Asbestos is safe and legal to remain in homes or public buildings as long as the asbestos materials are in good condition and the asbestos can not be released into the air. - US EPA & others.

IF your gypsum board or drywall is in good condition
AND
IF that there is no unavoidable requirement to demolish the building's interior walls
THEN
your safest and most economical approach to avoiding asbestos-joint-compound or "mud" dust release is to simply

paint the wall or ceiling surfaces.

Remember that asbestos hazards are from breathing airborne asbestos-laden dust; it's not emanating invisible harmful rays as would come from a radioactive material. Left alone, in place, intact, undisturbed, the material is not harmful.

On 2019-09-20 by Bob

Hi - I have found that the mud used in taping the seams between drywall sections has a 5% asbestos content. What is the best way to eliminate this as I will be relove a large percentage of the home. I was thinking... can I just cut out the tape area with a +2 inches on each side and then reapply tape and mud. I would only take off the surface area and not puncture the sheet rock. thanks for your help.
Bob

On 2019-07-19 - by (mod) - dealing with asbestos in drywall joint compound

I trust you'll understand, anon, that nobody can assess an asbestos risk from an e-text, so what I can offer is but general.

It is not necessary nor reasonable to eschew any work whatsoever on a building because of asbestos-containing or asbestos-suspect joint compound on the drywall.

1. An expertly-prepared drywall joint,

appearing 4 ft. on center at sides and 8' to 12 or 14' o.c. if there are abutting end joints (uncommon in residential buildings) is at most 18" wide, with additional small daubs of joint compound over drywall screws or nails into the wall studs or ceiling joists. Most of the field of drywall is not coated with joint compound in a normal installation. (I'm excluding here cases such as someone having applied a skim coat over an entire surface such as where textured surfaces are being applied.)

So a small hole drilled for passing a wire or a 4-5" hole cut to install an electrical box and support for a light fixture can miss the asbestos-suspect joint compound entirely.

2. A reasonable procedure in working on drywall

ceilings or walls where asbestos-containing joint compound was or is suspected to have been used is to

- minimize the dust created by the work - use a drywall knife rather than a saw to cut openings

- maximize the dust control - using drop cloths that can be cleaned or disposed-of and a HEPA vacuum cleaner to collect dust released during cutting of an opening or drilling of a smaller hole with an electric drill.

3. Use objective data

to support any claim that further cleanup is or is not needed in a building where asbestos-suspect drywall or joint compound is installed and where there was previous work or is future work: a simple tape test or two of representative samples of settled dust both in the work area and out of it can tell us if there is asbestos detected in building dust.

If it is then additional cleaning would be appropriate.

On 2019-07-18 by Anonymous

My family recently moved into a townhouse built in 1973. The previous owners disclosed that an area of the house that they renovated tested positive for asbestos in the joint compound in the walls.

My husband and I are wondering whether or not it is safe to have sconce lighting installed and/or additional electrical outlets.

What we should tell electricians and/or other technicians in the event of drilling into our walls for small jobs (not remodeling) to protect their health and ours?

On 2019-11-20 by Richard

Thank you for the quick response,
The location is the United States in Virginia Beach. I figured that would be the response from my (obsessive) reading. Thanks again.

On 2019-11-20 by (mod) -

Richard,

From above on this page

If drywall or gypsum board or "Sheetrock®" was installed in your building in North America between the late 1920s and 1980 it is possible that the drywall or the joint compound used on the drywall contains asbestos.

Drywall or "joint compound" asbestos content: on older buildings may contain asbestos fibers. Asbestos was [probably] universally used in drywall joint compound prior to the early 1980's.

So chances are. to answer you another way, quite possible on a 1984 home. That's construction right around the time that companies were stopping use of asbestos in drywall and in joint compound; but without an actual test of both the drywall (less likely) and joint compound (more likely) you cannot make a certain conclusion about the presence or absence of asbestos.

In part that's because we have no way to know that someone did not use new "old stock' gypsum board or joint compound manufactured several years earlier.

You'd need to do some tests to be confident.

Thanks for asking; let me know what you decide to do;

Of course also the country and city of the home are pertinent.

On 2019-11-20 by Richard

Purchasing a home built in 1984. What is the chance of the drywall containing asbestos?

On 2019-10-11 by (mod) -

Attilio

If your building is in North America it's unlikely the drywall or gypsum board from the 1990s wood contain asbestos

On 2019-10-08 by Attilio

Hello;

I have some drywall that says

UNDERWRITERS LABORATORIES INC
CLASSIFIED
R-1319-SP WALLBOARD TYPE IPX1
ISSUE NO. B-2294
5/8" x 48" WIDE
FIRE RESISTANCE CLASSIFICATION
Design Nos. G503, L501, L598, U30L, U305, U311, X508, X516
See UL Fire Resistance Directory

Any idea what's in this or if it might contain asbestos? Hose was built starting 1992, finished a year later.

Thank you
A

On 2019-08-29 by (mod) -

Miti:

To have space for a detailed reply we repeat your question and reply to it in the article above. You may need to clear your browser cache and re-load the page to see the new information we've added.

Thanks for asking. Don't hesitate to ask follow-up questions as needed.

See details at ASBESTOS in CANADIAN DRYWALL

Try the "add image" button, Pascal.

On 2019-07-23 by Pascal

I just insulated my kneewall.. and I found out I had double drywall while making an entrance.. here a picture of the suspicious drywall in question..

Sheetrock from Canadian Gypsum Company 1944 .. it has the word Fire around it and has this serial.number attached to the boards 15YWH. I already know the mud had asbestos.. what about the board itself?

On 2019-07-07 by (mod) -

yes

On 2019-07-07 by jean

I purchased drywall in 1972 from an USA company. Could it contain asbestos?

On 2019-04-26 by (mod) -

Mike,

Since it is *possible* that U.S. drywall from 1976 (or joint compound such as visible in your photo at a drywall joint) can contain asbestos, I cannot bet your life or your worry on a mere e-text other than to say sure - let's do something easy: paint over the exposed edges or even better, paint the exposed drywall edges, then enclose the area in neat wood trim.

Paint alone will do a good job at avoiding simple dust shedding (though un-disturbed not much dust would shed in any case, perhaps not even a detectable amount), but adding wood trim will avoid damage in the future, improving the installation.

On 2019-04-26 by Mike

My closet has some exposed drywall that has not been painted over. The exposed part is on the 1/2 inch side of the drywall. Sometimes the drywall crumbles into pieces of dust. The home was built in 1967 in New York. Should I be worried about asbestos exposure? If so, would taping over the area or perhaps painting over it with primer be sufficient to encapsulate it?

Thank you.
IMAGE LOST by older version of Clark Van Oyen’s useful Comments code - now fixed. Please re-post the image if you can. Sorry. Mod.

On 2019-04-21 by (mod) -

RE-posting from private email

Anonymous wrote:

I tried posting a comment to ask a question but was unable too. Could you answer for me?

I am trying to figure out if this dry wall contains anything I should be worried about. The building is a storage facility built in the 70's. I have to replace or patch drywall frequently here. I had a mask on today but I couldn't stop coughing. A piece of the wall I had torn down said
Underwriters' Laboratories INC. ( First word could be longer I just have this off a corner piece I looked at before throwing out)
Classified Wallboard
issue NO. B-59 Type FSW-1
than it says fire resistance classification (with a bunch of #s)
G502,G514, L504, L515, L522, U307, U312, U310, U317, U410, X513, X520
See UL Fire Resistance Index

I'm not sure if its old or new or if that even means anything. All I know is if im tearing this stuff down all the time I am NOT doing it anymore if its going to kill me. I want to protect my self.

Moderator Reply:

Anon:

Our web page comments box software will temporarily block posting of comments that appear as if they contain a URL or an image - both need moderator approval; We normally approve such comments in minutes to a few hours.

Did you see a message informing you of that when you tried to post a comment? Or was there some other problem. Do let me know, as I can then inform the Comments Box coder Clark Van Oyen of any issues that need to be fixed.

Your text suggests that you saw a U.S. made drywall identification stamp - the first word would have been Underwriter' Laboratories INC. - or "UL" in popular parlance.

The product - National Gypsum's fire-resistant drywall Type FSW-1 is a fire-resistant gypsum board or drywall - most likely described by the document from National Gypsum that you can read as a PDF at

GOLD BOND BRAND FIRE SHIELD GYPSUM BOARD [PDF] National Gypsum Company Construction Guide

inspectapedia.com/interiors/Fire-Shield-Drywall-National-Gypsum.pdf

- National Gypsum Corporation, retrieved 4/21/2019, original source: www.nationalgypsum.com/File/fireshieldwb.pdf

As you will read there, those modern products do not contain asbestos.

It would be helpful to know

- the age of your building

- the age of any renovations or remodeling that might have replaced drywall or plasterboard

and to see some sharp photos of the material, the stamp you cite, and the edges of the drywall

Watch out: drywall dust, even from drywall that does not contain asbestos (or drywall taping compound that does not contain asbestos as much of that material did), is at least a respiratory irritant against which proper protection and proper dust control and dust clean-up would be sensible.

See this Safety Data Sheet from National Gypsum

SDS No. GB-1501 Gold Bond® BRAND Gypsum Board Products [PDF] https://inspectapedia.com/interiors/Drywall-Gypsum-Board-SDS-National-Gypsum.pdf

On 2019-09-28 by David

Do I need to test for asbestos and lead before cutting a 3 foot square hole in drywall to repair a leaky pipe? The house was built in 1968.

On 2019-09-17 by (mod) -

Thank you for the added details - that's helpful.

The manufacturer's point is probably that any drywall dust from behind the fridge may be blown about by its cooling fan but it was not being drawn into the refrigerator's coils.

On 2019-09-16 by Vanessa Salas

I just came home and 1/4 of the fridge blows air out the front and rest of the grill blows air from the front to the back. So technically, a little air is indeed being blown out the front of the fridge :(

Do I need to also dust my walls and ceiling?

Thank you so much for your reply. I contacted the manufacture of the refrigerator and they said that the refrigerator blows air from the front of the refrigerator towards the back. So I think the air flow was mostly distributed behind refrigerator. I also called a few construction cleanup services and they said based off of the amount of drywall dust it doesn’t seem to be a big risk.

I did end up cleaning the dust with a HEPA vacuum and the dust mask. I went in the area several times after and also clean the coils underneath refrigerator. The dust you see in the picture if all the dust there before I cleaned it

On 2019-09-16 by (mod) -

I can't really access absolute risk just the information we have at hand, but I suspect that cutting the hand size hole in drywall and then cleaning up the does the special can after it is not likely to produce a measurable Hazard.

At this point it would make sense to clean everything thoroughly, cover the whole if it's not necessary for it to remain open, and if you're still concerned you could collect of settled dust simple and have that analyzed for a meaningful presence of harmful particles.

On 2019-09-16 by Vanessa Salas

Hello,

When I moved into my house our water company cut a small area of drywall behind my refrigerator to access a water line. The cut was the size of an adult hand. I thought he cleaned all the drywall dust but when I moved our fridge yesterday to clean behind it I found drywall dust there.

A lot of it was hard and caked onto along the baseboard but some of the dust was still loose, under the refrigerator. Maybe about a tablespoon worth.

I’m concerned because the refrigerator has a compressor fan behind it that blows air under the fridge and out the bottom front grill. My home was built in 2007 so I know that asbestos is not in the drywall but I read drywall contains silica.

The fridge is in a cut out space with cupboards and walls around it and tge back of the fridge was covered with cardboard that has small slots. how much silica is inside of drywall dust? If I had to guess how much dust there was behind the fridge (including the hardened dust) I would say it was about 1/4-1/2 cup of it.

My biggest concern is that this stuff has been blowing into my house from the bottom of the fridge for the past year. I have my twin girls in the house and we run the ac a lot. There’s a lot of coils and components under the fridge so I’m hoping some of the dust got stuck in that but if some still came out, what are the risks from this?

 

On 2019-02-06 by rola.mahmood

They recently made a hole in my building drywall in the lobby ,i usually leave baby stroller and thermal insulator around that area. I took a picture of the wall is there asbestos in the drywall or the insulator fiberboard?

Hello. I found a cut in my buildings dry wall,this part was exposed from the wall. It's in the lobby and I usually leave my baby's stroller in that area. Is that asbestos? I am referring to the small white filaments in the back.

Below is a second picture of the same place. I leave my baby's stroller and the thermal insulator down there.

We have been living in this building for 2 months and a half. Should I be worried?

On 2019-02-06 by (mod) - is this drywall cut going to hurt me and my baby?

Rola,

One cannot know from a photo whether or not drywall or joint compound used in its installation contains asbestos.

If the area is visibly dusty with drywall or joint compound dust and debris it should be cleaned-up.

Otherwise it's not likely that there is a measurable hazard of dust from the conditions in your photo themselves.

 

Asbestos-Containing Drywall Removal Practices & Guidelines


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