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Wolfe's US FPL 439 research found that installing gypsum board drywall horizontally provides greater wall resistance strength against racking forces  - cited & discussed at InspectApedia.com Drywall Installation: horizontal vs. vertical?

Pros & cons of vertical versus horizontal drywall hanging

Is it better to install drywall horizontally on walls or vertically?

Reader comments and expert replies along with supporting research argue that horizontally-installed drywall makes walls stronger with greater resistance to racking than vertical drywall jobs, but some readers disagree and others point out that for one installer working alone, vertical installation may be easier.

Both drywall orientations are permitted by drywall manufacturer's installation guides.

Page top figure excerpted and edited from US FPL 439, Wolfe's research on wall racking resistance strength for horizontal versus vertical drywall installation position. (Cited in detail below)

This article series describes the best practices when installing drywall in buildings. We describe the types of drywall and where each type should be used. We discuss different approaches to hanging drywall, including the necessary framing and adhesion or fastening specifications.

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Drywall Installation Position

Horizontal drywall runs (C) D Friedman Eric GalowOur drywall installation photographs illustrate horizontal drywall application by professionals: notice the long horizontal tape joints beginning up 4 ft. from the floor (red arrow).

At DRYWALL INSTALLATION Best Practices we stated

For walls 8 feet high or less, run drywall sheets perpendicular to the studs [or horizontally, with the long side of the drywall sheets parallel to the floor. The installer in the job shown at left used 12-foot drywall lengths for even fewer joints. - Ed.]. This is stronger, bridges framing irregularities, and results in fewer joints.

But as you'll read in reader discussion comments below, some installers disagree.

On 2021-04-17 - by (mod) - we like horizontal drywall installation but ...

@larry,

A lot of professional drywaller's like to run the drywall horizontally claiming that it makes for fewer seams to be taped. I was also impressed by Wolfe's US FPL research giving both data and an explanation of why horizontally-run drywall improves building wall structural strength and resistance against racking.

However if you're working alone you might find it easier to lift the drywall in place if you place your panels vertical.

The horizontal design means you'll need to lift up an 8 foot lengths and set it on top of the upper edge of your lower length already in place and then hold it there while you shoot screws in so that it doesn't fall in your face.

On 2021-04-17 by larry

drywall horizontal or vertical I have a few walls about 177" long give or take, the ceiling is 85" not 96 or 8ft. Older home reno. is it better to run 8ft boards vertical or horizontal, I doing the job myself so 10ft or 12 ft boards would be trouble.
Thanks kman10kman@gmail.com

On 2019-11-09 - by (mod) -

Lakewood drywall said:

It's always nice to get a perspective on how other pros get the job done. We just started our drywall business in lakewood Colorado Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge on the topic!

On 2017-05-20 - by (mod) - blocking required for buttboard dywall taping method: horizontal vs. vertical drywall installation

Iggy, intersting points.

Glad you feel passionate, but these comments
will be heard more clearly by other readers with less shouting and insults. I'll later edit accordingly.

Frankly I found Wolfe's study carefully-written and providing compelling evidence.

It is important for us to keep in mind the differences among scholarly research, engineering analysis, field experience, and opinion.

For other readers:

Wolfe's US FPL study, cited above where a complete copy is provided as a PDF download found that

Horizontal panel orientation appeared to offer a significant improvement over that obtained with vertical panel orientation. Walls tested with panels oriented horizontally were more than 40 percent stronger and stiffer than those with panels oriented vertically

On 2017-05-19 by Iggy - buttboad drywall blocking: always fasten to blocking

Buttboard drywall taping pattern (C) InspectApedia.com reader
Yep, Trim-Tex, Wilco or whomever's Buttboards (fake "blocking") are enablers for the SUPER dumb and lazy.

BUT, they should only EVER be first screwed to solid blocking! No users of that stuff do that and they VERY stupidly expect the seam to stand up to someone bumping into the wall or leaning on it. Well, they aren't durable because only drywall is "supporting" drywall.

Don't worry, those idiots have plenty of imbecile friends and most of those morons proclaim themselves to be "Professionals"...they MOST DEFINITELY ARE NOT. They're hack frauds slapping up a pretty piece of WORTHLESS work that's quite literally RUINING Brand New from the very start, while jeopardizing countless lives along the way.

If Real Blocking were used, like it should've been all along, then Buttboards would've never existed. To cut an extremely shallow "V" in a chunk of 2x4 or 2x6 takes just seconds with any cheap circular saw, jig saw, belt sander or grinder and the top and bottom blocking is bridged with a 2x4 or 2x6. Then, you'd be able to kick, punch or hammer any seam without any failure, like can be done with every single seam of the correct, easier, faster and way-way better Vertical Installation.

Again, if Fire is NOT a consideration for single-ply installations, then why use drywall at all? Sorry but, Steven's point that there shouldn't be any expectation of safety from drywall's use is rather ridiculous. Yeah, I've tried with the Gypsum Associations and Manufacturers and all they do is fallback to ASTM's errors and openly instruct that either orientation is fine by them. They're just promoting their product's further existence and repeated purchase.

Though, I'm glad to see that only 1-point of mine was confronted and so weakly.

On 2017-05-19 - by (mod) - drywall butt joints that do not meet over a framing member & TrimTex buttboard support

Regarding drywall butt joints that do not meet over a framing member, particularly in horizontally-run drywall, 've received enthusiastic comments from a reader about TrimTex buttboard that is specifically designed to provide a continuous backer across such joints. More research and expert comment on that drywall approach is needed.

The claimed fabulously-more-easy installation using TrimTex buttboard at butt joints of ends of horizontally-run drywall did not, for me, add-up, since in normal building framing with studs on 16" or even 24" centers, starting with full-size drywall panels in a multiple of feet, the joints should want to end in the center of framing members anyway - with the obvious exceptions for odd-sized spaces and perhaps one final drywall segment.

On 2017-05-19 by Steven Bliss

Comments from Steven Bliss, original author of Best Practices in Residential Construction

It may be that there is a theoretical fire-safety advantage to vertical installation of drywall, but most fire-rated wall assemblies allow for either vertical or horizontal installation. There are a number of other advantages to horizontal installation and it is by far the most common. However, like many things in construction, intelligent (or not) people may disagree about the best way to do things.

In the most recent version of the Gypsum Handbook in my possession (which is sadly from 2000), it states that:

“Two recent tests permit Sheetrock brand gypsum panel products…to be applied horizontally or vertically in partitions without compromising the fire rating. These tests are UL Design U419 for non-load bearing partitions and UL Design U423 for load-bearing partitions. When either of these tests are listed with a USG system, it means that the system can now be built with the panels oriented in either direction.”

Here’s what Georgia-Pacific has to say:

Should gypsum board be installed vertically or horizontally?

While gypsum boards are stronger in one direction, they may be installed either vertically or horizontally on wood or steel studs. If the boards are to be used in a fire rated assembly then use the board orientation that is stated in your specific rated assembly.

That said, there are certain commercial wall assemblies using some brands of Type X and Type C fire-rated drywall that were only tested with panels in the vertical dimension, so they must be installed that way to retain that fire rating. The only one I could find that required vertical installation of the drywall is for elevator shafts, but there may be others. Individual panels do not have a fire-rating – only the installed assemblies are rated.

Iggy seems to feel strongly about this and I don’t know enough to refute his claim. It is plausible that fire could escape more easily out of a horizontal drywall joint with no backing. I would check with the folks at US Gypsum, who have been setting standards in this area for decades.

As I’m sure you are aware, fire safety is a complex and controversial topic. Most people die of smoke inhalation or CO poisoning long before the house burns down. There was a time when healthy-house types expressed a lot of concern about urethane foam insulation in a fire until someone pointed out that they were probably sleeping on a urethane foam pillow. Of greater concern is polystyrene foam which, apparently, apparently melts and then burst into flame. However, the flame- spread test used to test the material for fire safety ignores this characteristic. Commercial interests sometimes trump safety concerns.

Let me know if you find out anything of interest.

Steven Bliss
www.BuildingAdvisor.com

On 2017-05-19 by Iggy - importance of run direction of drywall butt joints

Well, which way the joints run SHOULDN'T matter, but IT SURE DOES. Why & How? Because of what BUILDING Inspectors FOOLISHLY "pass" on a daily basis...and have done so for decades. According to ASTM's C840 (2012 was the last I could obtain freely) ALL edges and ends MUST be attached to framing members or back-blocking to ensure air-tightness of any panel, regardless of panel size.

Yes, even partial or very small panel portions. BUT, NO-ONE building nor renovating homes does any sort of Back-Blocking to either fully support an ENTIRE edge or end nor do or can they achieve natural air-tightness. Therefore, why Fire-Rated Assemblies have (required) their layers laid perpendicular to each other.

However, the ASTM itself is the downfall and root of the problem and has been for my 15-years of trying. The ASTM language is - "Edges and ends of gypsum board shall occur on the framing members, EXCEPT those edges and ends that are perpendicular to the framing members."

The word EXCEPT needs to be SIMPLY corrected to ESPECIALLY. Since, the instruction and test results imply and establish that panel edges and ends (along with everything else) need to be air-tight and FULLY supported. In complete and total support of my discovery, it states for HORIZONTAL (perpendicular to framing members) installations upon ceilings must have - "BLOCKING of perimeter edges. All perimeter edges shall be blocked using a wood member not less than 2-inch by 6-inch nominal dimension."

The ASTM REFUSES the error and drywall work is passed everywhere without a stich of Back-Blocking in any ceiling and especially wall. I've tried to get drywall installers on-board, but as soon as they have to do Back-Blocking their falsely and fraudulently claimed "benefits" of the laughable Horizontal installation disappear entirely.

12 Reader Objections to Horizontal Drywall Installation

[given below is a Reader OPINION - Ed.]

Which, brings me to my 12-point list of why Horizontal installation IS JUST PLAIN WRONG and that Vertical installation is THE ONLY AND RIGHT WAY:

  1. DEFECTIVE SEAM - Horizontal rows needing more than one drywall panel CREATES (instead of AVOIDS) a butt-joint HUMP, which are NOT flat and are a TWICE (minimum) effort DEFECT. Outlet and switch cover-plates, window and door trim, baseboards, pictures, mirrors and cabinets don’t sit flat. Using ANY "butt-joint product" erases ALL "claimed benefits" of Horizontal!
  2. UNSUPPORTED SEAM – Horizontal’s tapered edge is MOSTLY unsupported, only 10% (instead of Vertical's 100%) contacts framing, the seam WILL AND DOES crack. Light switch and countertop electrical boxes within the seam equals MORE weakness and butt-joint doubled, MINIMUM, efforts.
  3. STRUCTURAL DEFECT - Horizontal only reinforces a wall height of 4’ or less and the wall's top-plate is never connected to the bottom-plate. As in and due to #2 above, Frictional Contact is MINIMIZED (instead of maximized by Vertical).
  4. SEAM DECEPTION...(4'x8' PANELS) – Example 1: 48” tall by 102” long wall, Horizontal = 48” (technically) and it’s a 24”-WIDE butt-joint (Vertical = the same, GENEROUSLY, 96” but they’re easy 6”-wide joints).

    Example 2: 96” tall by 102” long wall, Horizontal = 222” with 50% being 24”-WIDE butts (Vertical = 192” of 6”-wide easy joints, yes LESS)...in a Kitchen Horizontal = 100% of 24”-WIDE butts (Vertical = 0%). Yes, Horizontal does the taper area TWICE in order to hide its butts, so VERY MINIMALLY just another 24” was added AND #5 below was not at all factored-in to Horizontal's continued failure.
  5. SELF-DEFEATING ANGLES – Horizontal only uses ONE of a panel’s tapered edges and PUTS the other taper at the ceiling corner and baseboard, CREATING (instead of AVOIDING) a twisted angle that MUST be shimmed or ADDITIONALLY mudded.

    This too, instantly ERASES ALL claimed benefits of Horizontal! The Panels are designed to be installed Vertically!
  6. UNFRIENDLY SEAMS – Horizontal celebrates the chest height seam and PRETENDS there’s no 24”-WIDE floor to ceiling butt-joint that needs to be DONE AND DRY BEFORE doing the ceiling corner (Vertical has easy joints and the top's done later with the ceiling corner).
  7. FIRE VIOLATION AND HAZARD - Horizontal only fills the coin-thin SEAM'S FACE and has NO back-blocking, inviting smoke and fire’s spread, including fuel-air for a fire's growth (Vertical is full depth and CONTINUOUSLY airtight).
  8. UNSAFE INSTALLATION - Horizontal needs 2-PEOPLE for a safe installation and the panel is airborne, literally CREATING the chance to CAUSE injury (Vertical easily tilts-up with just 1-person). Panel lifters aren't even as easy and safe as Vertical’s tilt-up.
  9. ADDITIONAL WASTE - When correctly covering a knee or half wall, tub front, column or soffit by first removing both tapered edges, Horizontal CAN'T use the tapers elsewhere (Vertical can and does).
  10. SELFISH IGNORANCE - Foundation and Framing crews go to great pains to make everything flat, level, plumb and square. Horizontal DESTROYS those efforts with their DEFECTIVE humps (Vertical keeps them all).
  11. GRASPING AT STRAWS WITH OUTRIGHT FRAUD - Horizontals FALSELY AND UNKNOWINGLY wave the absurdly INVALID (FPL439) 1983 testing “Contribution of Gypsum Wallboard to Racking Resistance of Light-Frame Walls” by the self-indicted fraud Ronald W. Wolfe.

    FPL439 found that ALL tapered or paper wrapped edges must be FULLY INTACT for Horizontal to beat Vertical "structurally", PERIOD. In the real-world, bottom paper wrapped edges are REMOVED (at a minimum), BY LAW, for spacing from all floors and thereby COMPLETELY NEGATE Wolfe’s inexcusably deceitful and worthless "study" and summation.
  12. JOINT OR SEAM TREATMENT - According to the ASTM's C840, Horizontal's joints and seams MUST be mudded to provide ANY fire, smoke and air travel resistance. Vertical is SO GOOD that it's NOT REQUIRED to have its joints or seams treated.

    Only promote HORIZONTAL AS WRONG and confidently cite the above incontestable FACTS.

On 2017-05-19 - by (mod) - fire hazard at drywall joints not over framing

Thank you for commenting on the fire hazard that you associate with horizontal drywall.

As long as joints are taped to spec those meet residential codes (but in some jurisdictions not commercial fire codes). To a typical drywall hanger it's unclear why the joint location would affect fire spread until we consider un-backed drywall joints not over framing. ( Joerger 2011)

But you're quite right that at commercial drywall installations, local fire code can require that all drywall seams or joints fall entirely on framing members. To meet fire code one would either have to install drywall long enough to meet the full height of the wall, screwing it to studs and to the wall top and bottom plates (all thus along framing) or one could be required to install blocking behind any othewise-open drywall butt joints.

Drywall Installation Details vs Fire Risk


Drywall Installation Methods, Guides, Research

Wolfe's US FPL 439 research found that installing gypsum board drywall horizontally provides greater wall resistance strength against racking forces  - cited & discussed at InspectApedia.com


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