Guide to slider or glider windows & window inspections for defects & leaks.
This article describes common defects (air or water leaks, out of square, operating difficulties) found in slider windows used in residential buildings
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Slider windows such as the page top installation on a cabin in Northern Minnesota and at left at a New York home can offer large horizontal expanses of glass and operable sash that do not interfere with interior or exterior space.
Our photo shows Anderson gliding windows (photo-right) that we [DJF] recently had installed during a log cabin renovation in Two Harbors, MN.
As discussed in Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction (Steve Bliss, J Wiley & Sons) Chapter 3, BEST PRACTICES GUIDE: WINDOWS & DOORS, designing a window that slides sideways presents some challenges that we list here:
To avoid problems with slider windows, look for high-quality windows that slide freely. Also, consider alternatives such as a picture window with a casement along one side for ventilation. On some glider windows, especially high-volume lower-quality units we [DJF] have observed these defects:
Openings in sealant around windows allow water to leak into the wall. A casual inspection may see caulk and not recognize that the caulk or sealant was not applied effectively.
Most modern windows include an installing flange that deters leaks into the wall cavity at these defects, but sending wind-blown rain behind the wood siding on the home in our photo above risks siding damage and rot or insect attack on the structure.
Above we illustrate a wood framed sash multi-light sliding window installed in a stone masonry building in Buenos Aires (below left), circa 1935.
Below a site-built wood frame slider installed in a Minnesota cabin constructed in the 1930s. At page top is an interior view of the same cabin after extensive restoration and with a new, larger sliding window installed in the same location.
Below is the renovated cabin wall and window for the same cabin.
Are there any book or article in the website that shows details or sections of an old metal sliding window? (or gliding window, I don't know the correct name) thanks! - M.O.
We call them sliding windows but window manufacturers such as Anderson Windows & Doors calls them gliding windows.
Our photos at left illustrate a 1970's metal frame slider window that was one of most on a condominium complex, all of which had lost their seal, leading to fogging between the panes of the double-glazed unit.
Our slider windows above show a clogged drain opening in the lower track of a 1980's vintage metal-frame sliding window (above left) and an aluminum framed gliding window in an apartment in New York (above right).
If you can describe a specific question or concern we'll be glad to do more research.
You will find sliding door and sliding window (or gliding door gliding window) manufacturers, repair instructions, and parts catalogs at
SLIDING GLIDING DOOR MANUFACTURERS & REPAIR GUIDES
2019/02/01 Joseph Abruzzese said:
Is there an adjustment to stop the draft on my Andersen slider windows. It's mostly at the bottom where the windows meet.
This Q&A were posted by the reader originally at the bottom of this page.
[Click to enlarge any image]
Joseph
I think your Anderson slider window has more than air leaks.
I also see water stains on the bottom of the wooden window frame, suggesting there has been wind-blown rain or snow-melt leakage too.
Other steps taken by some window repair techs:
A search of the company's help files for the word "slider leak" or even just "leak" finds only one article - on door air leakage.
I have installed and lived with Anderson slider windows that look a lot like yours and that have not leaked, so it's possible to have a weather tight window.
Below is the only Anderson slider window repair article I could find but it may be of some help in showing how the E-series slider window sashes are removed and replaced:
ANDERSON SLIDER WINDOW KEEPER REPLACEMENT GUIDE [PDF] Anderson Windows, retrieved 2019/02/01 original source: awwebcdnprdcd.azureedge.net/-/media/aw/files/technical-docs/service-guide/9069181.pdf
Take a look at the lower corner of the window glass and give us the exact Anderson window identification and date code - that will permit window-specific research.
Joseph said:
The water damage was from before I bought the house and stripped and replaced the exterior of the house and while doing that I flashed every window on the exterior.
Just window comes through.
We recently had bad wind-blown rain storms on that side of the house and there was no water leaks. Thank you for the information.
CG-4 2-01.7 the numbers that I found on the window in the lower right corner. And here is a picture of the exterior of my window
Have you looked closely at the track to make sure that the drain holes on the outside are not blocked and that the J channel around the window is not trapping water?
I have on occasion found water running down a window sash, overwhelming the drain openings in the track, filling the slider track, and overflowing to the inside.
Do not modify your window without Anderson's advice; but FYI in some cases I've added or enlarged drainage openings on the inner track vertical vanes.
FYI the number after the CG indicates the plat location, so CG-4 2-01.7 means plant location No. 4.
Contact Andersen WindowCare Service directly at 1 (888) 888-7020.
I have checked all of that the water is draining properly out side. For some reason I could see daylight at the bottom where the two sliders meet and that is where the wind comes in.
What a puzzle.
Clearly we ought never see daylight between two sliding window sashes when peering at them from inside. That sounds like a misfit, misalignment, or lost gasket. If you can manage a sharp closeup of what you see that'd be helpful.
The window sliders are latched, right?
Are the slider sashes both square in the frame? If you open a slider and then move it nearly-closed and examine the vertical opening is it uniform in width, to bottom?
Is the slider frame itself square? Measure the two diagonals carefully and compare those dimensions.
Are there other windows of the same model on the home with which we can compare the bad behaver?
I will review our files and add some photos of where to check for leak sources on Anderson sliding windows as well as other brands.
The predominant opinion among contractors is that when a slider or glider leaks it's faulty installation, occasionally a plugged or blocked drain in the track, or a missing section of weather stripping, and often improper or missing flashing outside around the window.
However Joseph's window leak is still under investigation.
For other readers, on this page we focus on sliding windows, installation, leak troubleshooting, &c. Some additional window leak diagnosis and repair articles at InspectApedia.com are listed below.
WINDOW / DOOR AIR LEAK SEALING HOW TO
SKYLIGHT LEAK DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
Besides checking the sliding or gliding window (or sliding door) track for debris and clogging (illustrated above), check the window installation history and any photos taken during construction. Those may give us information about the proper or improper flashing and other installation details.
Then check the window sash and frame (or door) for squareness, as we illustrate below.
Below: Photos of an Anderson sliding window during installation and as completed, inside and out, with some leak checkpoint tips. (This window has been installed for about ten years and is not leaking). These details will also help diagnose a leaky sliding door.
Above, the contractor, Nightmareworks Construction who does beautiful carpentry but horrible tiling and mechanical work (RADIANT HEAT MISTAKES ) installed this Anderson sliding window with the housewrap cut away from the framed opening.
Later he taped the window frame and flashing to the housewrap (shown below on another window on the same building). I prefer to wrap the housewrap into the opening.
In our next window installation detail you can see that the contractor used a pan flashing below the window.
Below is the Anderson Slider with the installation complete, viewed from outside.
And below, the same window viewed from the building interior.
The photo is a little distorted from processing. The window frame and trim are actually plumb and close to square.
Since the window sashes are factory made and would be expected to be perfectly square, if the sliding window sash does not sit squarely in its frame, the frame was installed out of square, perhaps improperly shimmed during construction.
Measure the two diagonals of the window frame to check for plumb and square.
Then open the sliding sash an inch and measure the distance between the sash edge and the window frame opening at top and bottom. Those measurements should be the same.
I'm showing the same Anderson sliding window from outside but actually you will make the gap measurements from the interior side of the window.
At this window the sash gap was NOT uniform at top and bottom, but even if the window frame is slightly out of square, when the sashes are latched together when closed the window should not leak. And this one does not leak air nor water.
If your sliding window was intended to have a factory-included weather strip along the top, sides, or bottom, check the condition of the weather stripping. On some leaky sliding glass doors that I've inspected the weather stripping had been pushed to one side leaving a gap while on others it was damaged or lost completely.
- - Adapted and paraphrased, edited, and supplemented, with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction (Steve Bliss, J Wiley & Sons) .
See our WINDOW TYPES, GUIDE article series where we describe the selection and installation of windows and doors, following best construction and design practices for building lighting and ventilation, with attention to the impact on building heating and cooling costs, indoor air quality, and comfort of occupants.
There we review the proper installation details for windows and doors, and we compare the durability of different window and door materials and types.
(Nov 13, 2011) Kirk Hansen said:
We live in a 30-year old condo apartment. Two or three of our sliding windows have wheels (one of the two wheels on each window) that have seized up. I've tried to free one with WD40-type spray, and can now turn it with difficulty, but it's not close to free-rolling. So it seems I need to replace it.
Two questions:
-It looks hard to remove the carriage+wheel that's there now. (Aluminum carriage, held in by slight fold over of the window projecting vanes, whatever those are really called. No screw.)
-I've found hundreds of carriage+wheel arrangements on the web, but not one that matches the size I need.
Do you have any suggestions?
I would remove an old carriage track from your sliding windows - you may have to remove one model window in this process but it's worth it.
Then take that track to a window supplier. Chances are you can match the track profile and track height with a replacement unit that fits in the same space.
(July 3, 2012) Anonymous said:
There will be 2 steps with a rise of 8" (run of 10") to a sliding glass door, which leads into the house. Do I need a landing?
I recommend a landing at any exterior door. Your local building inspector is, however, the final authority; that's where you should start.
...
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