Skylight leak field report:

This article describes a series of questions and answers that helped an Inspectapedia.com reader track down and fix a leaky skylight.

 

Troubleshooting and fixing leaky skylights

Our Porch Skylight is Leaking, Prior repairs didn't work.

Leak from corner of skylight in roof over screened in porch. (Skylight is not the kind that can open.) Roofer observed prior homeowners had done caulk repairs in the past, but said now there is corrosion on the flashing and there is a hole. (Showed us a photo, which we're waiting for him to send us.)

Said the fix is to replace the skylight, install new flashing, etc. Does this sound right or a bit extreme? I didn't understand why the entire window would have to be replaced. Do you have any perspective on this or would you need more information?

Roofer #1 thinks the leak is from a seal failure, so wants to remove the dome and install a new flat lense and, obviously, re-seal.

Roofer #2 thinks it's a flashing failure, doesn't think that can be repaired, and as a result is proposing replacing the window and installing new flashing.

And as if having two different diagnoses isn't confusing enough, one thinks the window is a standard size ( which means replacement costs less and can be made faster) and the other roofer thinks it's a custom size, which means more expensive and costly.

Needless to say, we will ask whoever we're thinking of hiring to re-measure.

I will follow up with the roofer as well, to better understand but thought it would be helpful to get your input. - On 2023-07-23 by Jane -

Reply by InspectApedia Publisher - Leak from corner of skylight in roof over screened in porch

@Jane,

I'd want to know the age and condition of the skylight. IF it's a high quality unit in very good condition so that the ONLY issue is with flashing then usually one can replace just the flashing.

But some skylights are sold with part of the flashing integrated with the body of the skylight.

So I need to see photos and details.

Frankly it's odd for modern skylight flashing to get a "hole" as the flashing isn't usually a metal that will rust.

But improperly installed, metal flashing might flex repeatedly until it cracks and breaks.

So let's see the details.

You could also do some simple testing:

• Garden Hose Skylight Test 1:
  
   Outside, and from on the roof surface : in dry weather, try pulling a garden hose to the rooftop to permit live water testing of the skylight for leaks.
  
  First allow water to run down-roof onto the up-roof end of the skylight and around the unit.
  
  Look inside the building at the skylight for signs of new water penetration.
• Garden Hose Skylight Test 2: 
  
  Next allow hose-water to run onto the skylight surface itself. If the leak appears around the glass frame, visible from inside, then the problem includes at least a glass sealing problem.
  
  If leaks around the skylight appear only when water is flowing down the roof surface and not onto the upper surface of the skylight, there is a skylight roof flashing problem.
  
  Watch out: Don't soak the building interior - just use enough water to see it appearing indoors.

On 2023-08-26 by Jane

@InspectApedia Publisher, Update and finally have photos. Have consulted with two different, very reputable roofers.

One thinks the problem is the seal around the dome and wants to remove and replace the dome with a flat lense and reseal. The other thinks the problem is with the flashing and wants to replace the skylight and flashing, noting that any other repair has a high risk of failure.

Statistically, the flashing would be the more likely problem, but hope you can help me square these two different opinions. I don’t want to throw good money after bad by doing the less expensive fix the first roofer is proposing only to discover the second roofer was right all along.

Also, they’re suggesting two different models of the same skylight window brand so I need to do research about that, but if you have any opinions about this topic, I’m all ears. Thank you, in advance, for your help.

I don’t know how many pics I can post, so if only one, will post a couple more so you can have maximum visual info. (Also, we don’t know the age or the brand of the skylights that are currently there, but estimate they are probably 15 yrs old.)

Reply by InspectApedia Publisher - Comment on your two different roofer recommendations for skylight repair

@Jane,

Your photo that includes multiple images looks as if the skylight might have been added, and in any case I don't expect nor want to see exposed fasteners; in addition the use of sealant at the upper corners of the skylight suggests that someone thought that that was a leak point.

It looks as if there's also an exposed fastener at the lower skylight corner. That's a sign of inexperienced workers and improper installation.

So far from the discussion and photos I can't say where the leak is occurring nor whether the issue is the skylight flashing (the usual cause) or the skylight itself (such as a poor seal between the dome and the perimeter flashing.

But before tearing things apart I would want a careful inspection inside around the skylight. The highest point around the skylight at which we can find water stains or damage will be diagnostic as the leak will be above that point.

Where is the building located (country, city) and how old are the building, the roof, and the skyhlight.

If the skylight frame and upper counter-flashing are in poor condition and the dome fogged it would be no surprise that some roofers want to re-do the job.

Be sure to read

SKYLIGHT LEAK DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR

Reply by InspectApedia Publisher

@Jane,

We need to know, more accurately, where the leak shows up inside and whether that points to the skylight dome (replace the whole unit) or an improper installation (whole unit may need reinstallation so time to buy a new skylight), or a small, single fault that can be reliably sealed.

Certainly the cheapest test is to let someone patch what they think can be sealed without tearing up the installation, then testing it for leaks (a garden hose can work).

Keep us posted.

On 2023-08-27 by Jane - roofer patched what they thought was the leak but the skylight still leaks

@InspectApedia Publisher, Thank you. To reply to your points. The leak is dripping from the very same corner that's highlighted in the photos (lower right from the exterior perspective).

We find a small puddle (8" diameter, max) on the porch floor directly under that corner of the skylight.

Roofer #1 initially sent a repair team who found a rusty/corroded nail in that area in question on the roof, removed it, replaced and sealed and felt confident that was the fix. (You can see that in one of the close up pics.)

But it still leaked, so obviously not the fix. So they sent someone else out who decided it was due to seal failure and proposed removal of the lense and replacement of new flat one and re-seal.

Meanwhile, roofer #2 (group pic) determined the leak was due to flashing and proposed replacing the window, re-doing the flashing, etc. Not sure what my next step should be. Any additional ideas?

Can you just replace flashing without replacing the entire skylight? If so, the impression I have is that you run the risk of not getting a good fit when re-installing an old unit. Any additional thoughts would be most welcome. Thank you so much!

On 2023-08-27 by Jane - Niether roofer looked at the skylight from inside

As for interior inspection, other than looking up at the skylight, neither roofer went up on a ladder inside our porch to inspect from the interior.

However, my husband had already done that in an attempt to determine if there were drip marks, stains, etc, and other than the one lower corner, there was no evidence he could see to further point in a particular direction.

Regarding the dome, I think it's a single pane of plexiglass. It appears hazy, but don't know if that's from it being dirty or a seal break. The haze is even over both skylights. As for the age of things, since we've only owned the house for a few years, we've only been able to estimate age.

We believe the roof to be about 15 years old. We don't know about the skylights. We think they may be a similar age, when the entire roof was probably re-done, but we can't know for sure and neither roofer has been able to determine the age, manufacturer, etc, of the skylights for us.

If I understood your comment correctly, it sounds like you see multiple problems, so perhaps this is the time to replace both skylights, but the cost is so high we wanted to make sure we'd explored all other viable options first.

Your ongoing help is greatly appreciated. (Also, that white area in the lower left corner of the first photo is where roofer #1 did the nail replacement.)

Reply by InspectApedia Publisher - A uniform haze all over a plastic bubble type roof skylight is typical of age and photo-oxidation

@Jane,

A uniform haze all over a plastic bubble type roof skylight is typical of age and photo-oxidation (sunlight exposure).

If you're not seeing ANY evidence of leaks inside the building it's reasonable to patch any suspect areas on the roof - you can try silicone sealant on clean dry surfaces - and then to watch for indoor leak signs.

You could, also after heavy rain, get someone on a ladder inside to check the ceiling for moisture around and below the skylight.

On 2023-08-28 by Jane - The skylight is still leaking: made a puddle on the floor

@InspectApedia Publisher, Thank you. To be clear: We ARE seeing evidence of a leak inside the screened in porch. There's a small puddle on the floor below the corner of one of the skylights.

And a roof er did patch an area they thought was suspect, but it didn't work. Now we're being told the seal is the culprit = replace with a new lense and reseal vs the other roofer saying repair isn't viable and we need a new skylight and flashing.

I know not what to do.

Reply by InspectApedia Publisher - What's diagnostic is finding leak stains or puddles after rain or after testing the roof and skylight with a garden hose

@Jane,

Sorry for the confusion. If you're seeing a puddle below a skylight I'd have expected to find a water stain or wet or damp area on the inside of the skylight or in the ceiling around it as well.

What can be misleading is that depending on where a skylight is installed (e.g. over an area where there is a moisture source such as kitchens, baths, &c) condensation on a skylight in cool or cold weather can drip onto a floor or stain the surrounding skylight well.

What's diagnostic is finding leak stains or puddles after rain or after testing the roof and skylight with a garden hose.

Considering the age and condition of the skylight, and from our *very* limited viewpoint here where we have just text and some photos, skylight replacement seems a reasonable step;

Earlier I described a seal, patch, and watch option.

On 2023-08-28 by Jane

@InspectApedia Publisher, Thank you. And sorry if I wasn't clear that the skylights are over a screened in porch, not an interior room. In any case, I greatly appreciate all your time helping me with this.

It's incredible how you give of your time in this way when people send you written descriptions and photos.

Of course you don't have the benefit of in person inspections, but wow, the service you provide is so valuable in at least helping to point people in a certain direction. Thank you so much!

On 2023-08-29 by InspectApedia Publisher

@Jane,

Tracking down building leaks is always a challenge, and an experienced on-site person can often see clues that a normal homeowner or even some contractors won't have noticed.

A contractor is often, quite understandably focused on getting a job, getting it done, and less interested in lengthy diagnosis.

My friend Eric often argued that in the time we spent diagnosing something he could simply tear out the old whatever and do it over again "right" as he put it - and sometimes at less cost.

Thank you as well for your kind words. Your questions and discussion help us see where we need to add or clarify information - working together helps us both.

On 2023-09-01 by Jane - We decided to replace the old skylights w/new ones.

Follow up question on new skylight install: We decided to replace the old skylights w/new ones.

Because the job will require replacing a fair number of shingles in the surrounding area of the skylight we're considering replacing all the shingles on the roof over this screened in porch (and installing wider gutters and downspouts).

One roofer discouraged doing so and waiting until such time when we would replace our entire roof (likely in about 5 yrs, maybe a bit longer) because he said the adhesive on shingles is so strong, that it would be a mess to re-do them along the porch side of the flashing whenever we replace the entire roof.

The other roofer said it won't be a problem. Do you have an opinion about that?

Reply by InspectApedia Publisher - don't tolerate ongoing leaks that are causing more costly damage.

@Jane,

If the leak is only over an outside porch and that porch ceiling is open - no insulation, no drywall, then you ought to be able to assure yourselves that the leaks are tolerable for a short term. (Longer term risks rotted roof sheathing or framing, invitation to wood destroying insects, and thus a more costly re-roof job).

So if you can tolerate the leaks yes you can wait and do the whole roof and flashing and skylights at one time. Patch and seal suspect sources of skylight leaks from above and wait.

One way to think about deferring re-roofing is that you're getting maximum use out of the existing roof, thus maximum return on the cost of the existing roof.

Just don't tolerate ongoing leaks that are causing more costly damage.

On 2023-10-15 by Jane

Following up on the porch roof exchange you so generously had with me a couple of months ago. We had the skylights replaced since one of the roofing companies was confident it was a seal failure and we could move forward in a step wise fashion if that turned out to be wrong.

Alas, it still leaks, so the more common problem is likely the culprit: the flashing. We'e now doing our homework on that and wanted to know if you had any suggestions of things to ask/confirm with the roofer.

One concern we have is temp. From what I'm reading online it seems that while cooler weather may not be ideal, it's still ok as long as the temp doesn't fall below 40 degrees. Do you agree with that and do you have any suggestions re: materials and/or install if the weather is in the 50's or low 60's?

It will be a shingle roof and any and all guidance about what to be looking for in terms of materials and install would be very much appreciated. We've never replaced a roof before so this is a steep learning curve and given the time of year, the clock is ticking. Thank you very much.

Reply by InspectApedia DF (mod) - lowest temperature at which asphalt shingle roofing can be installed without risking trouble is 40 deg. F

@Jane,

Thank you for the roof work follow-up.

The lowest temperature at which asphalt shingle roofing can be installed without risking trouble is 40 deg. F. Installing roofing below that temperature has at least these risks:

1. adhesives such as at roof flashing mastic/sealant and the factory-included shingle tab sealant that prevents wind blow-off damage to shingles may not adhere at low temperatures, so there's risk of roof damage in windy or wet weather

However special low-temperature adhesive products are available, and in fact I've seen asphalt roofing work done in northern Minnesota right through winter as long as there was no snow on the roof. So it's possible but not best praactice.

2. There is risk of shingle warranty issues if you later have a roof shingle failure warranty claim: the manufacturer may not warrant shingles installed below 40 F.

3. On occasion, especially where shingles were laid across a ridge in very cold weather, we see shingle crack damage that later leads to early wear or failure and possibly leaks - also a warranty issue.

So yes, at 50 or 60 degF asphalt shingle roofing is fine.

You'd also expect your roofer to keep an eye on the weather and not leave the home exposed to water damage should there be rain before the roof is adequately covered.

Aside: if you're in a climate that has snow, I'm a big fan of generous use of ice and water shield at least at the lower 3 ft. of the roof; some roofers extend that material higher-up the slope as well. That's extra insurance against ice dam leaks.

---

About the skylight leak, I am really disappointed to hear that you had skylights replaced and then found new leaks at the new skylights.

I'm of course blind - can't see a thing about the installation but I think that either the leaks are from elsewhere on the roof OR the skylight repair work was not done properly. If it turns out to be the latter, I'd be nervous about having the same roofing crew install my new roof. So you want some better diagnosis of exactly what's going on.

On 2023-10-17 by Jane

@InspectApedia DF, Thank you. One more question: We're trying to decide whether to replace the flashing and just the necessary shingles that integrate with it, or replace the whole porch roof.

We'd hoped to replace the porch roof when we re-roof the entire house in 3-5 yrs, but now we've got this leak challenge and need to figure out the best way to move forward.

Aesthetics aside, do you have an opinion about the wisdom, or lack thereof, of doing a partial job (flashing and only replace shingles that must be replaced) vs replacing the flashing and the entire porch roof? (Also, yes, aware the photo didn't show the roof itself, but just wanted to remind you the roof isn't over an indoor space.)

Reply by InspectApedia Publisher

@Jane,

I agree that if the leak is over an exterior space such as an outside porch at the risk of costly damage to the rest of the structure is considerably less.

I would point out however that is the ceiling to your porch is enclosed and we have water leaking into that space you may find that it's a mold reservoir.

So when you do the work you might want to explore that space to see if you want it opened and cleaned as well.

I wish I could give a more definite answer but simply from photos and text I can't know enough to be absolutely confident of the best course of action.

In my experience going to a site always brings out additional information that may not have been obvious in the original text and photo conversation.

Depending on exactly what's meant by correcting flashing, you can't replace flashing around a skylight without removing at least some of the surrounding shingles. If the cost of that job begins to approach the cost of re-roofing that whole section then it's a false economy to do it twice.

On 2023-10-16 by Jane

@InspectApedia DF, Thank you very much for all of that, including confirmation of minimum temp for install. I assume if the install is done when it's in the 50's or 60's but falls below 40 at night, that's ok and that the cut off temp pertains to the actual install itself and not post install temps.

Thank you for the ice and water shield recommendations, as well. We will make sure we have that exactly as you advise. Also, just to clarify, we don't have new leaks post new skylight install, but the same leak.

The roofing company (which is one of the most highly rated companies in the area) was confident the leak was from a seal break and when they removed the old dome plexiglass skylights to install the new Velux fcm skylights, they showed us in photos that there was, indeed, a seal break in the old ones in the precise location where we'd been having the leak.

So we were all confident they got it. But alas, not. A second roofer who also has an excellent reputation initially recommended replacing the flashing along w/the skylights, but there were other issues with this company so we went with the one with a more conservative step-wise approach since it seemed we had little to lose moving forward that way, other than time which is now a concern.

Related to that, if we held off doing anything more until spring, are we risking ice dam problems? And again, just to remind you, this is a roof over a screen in porch. There is not drywall or anything of the sort on the "interior." Let me know if a photo would help should this affect your perspective on waiting or doing the work now. Thank you so much!

Here's a photo taken from our porch under the skylight. The recessed part of the structure is aluminum coil and the ceiling is vinyl siding if any of that info is relevant.

 

Reply by InspectApedia Publisher - if an indoor condensation problem, then you'd see condensation on the skylight interior glass

@Jane,

The leak problem at the skylight, if it is in fact a leak, originates outdoors - so we can not see that from the indoor photo.

If on the other hand, it's not a leak but an indoor condensation problem, then you'd be seeing condensation on the skylight interior glass.

On 2023-10-16 by InspectApedia DF (mod)

@Jane,

About deferring re-roofing: the answer is, as my smarther-than-I-am friend Mark Cramer says, ... it depends.

If your roof is in questionable condition or is already leaking, then waiting until spring risks costly water damage to your home if the roof leaks during winter or when the snow melts or later in spring rain before the new roof is installed.

Most roof shingle manufacturers provide additional installation suggestions for cold weather roofing, such as using an additional dab of cold-weather sealant (e.g. silicones or urethane-solvent-based sealants that can work in cold temperatures) under every shingle tab rather than waiting for spring and hoping that the warmer weather & sunlight will seal the tabs then.

An experienced cold-weather roofer will know other "tricks of the trade" for cold temperature roofing. For example, in New York in cold weather conditions, we used to leave our ridge cap shingles indoors over radiators to soften them so that we could install them over hips and ridges or in valleys (for closed, woven valleys) without cracking.

On 2023-10-17 by Jane

@InspectApedia Publisher, Thank you and, yes, the cost issues are front and center. If we replaced the entire porch roof now, it would also be a job that involved replacing gutters, leaf guards, etc, which starts to add up, financially.

So if we could pursue a more narrow scope at this time and be confident that, financially, it wouldn't be unwise w/respect to replacing the entire roof in a few years, it would be preferable.

But I just wanted to know if you would advise against just doing a limited amount of shingle replacement (the roofer can't say until they'd get into it, exactly how many, but assuming no major damage is found, doesn't anticipate the radius from the skylights becoming overly large) for any technical reason.

Yes, we would be in contact with the IAQ consultant we work with sometimes about that. I greatly appreciate you bring it up.

Reply by InspectApedia Publisher - may be reasonable to do a patch job repair now and defer the rest until it's part of a whole house re-roof project

@Jane,

I agree that it may be reasonable to do a patch job repair now and defer the rest until it's part of a whole house re-roof project.

Do get an estimate from your roofer on the "patch" repair.

And when the roof is stripped back for that repair and again when the whole roof is replaced, be sure to get some sharp photos of what's been going on around those skylights as well as any other indicators of roof leaks.

What we find from above will tell us how worried we need to be about the condition of the roof decking, rafters, and porch ceiling.

On 2023-10-19 by Jane

@InspectApedia Publisher, Thank you very much. A manager from the roofing company came out today and spent a lot of time inspecting the roof and talking with us in great detail answering all our questions.

I'm glad to hear from you that a job that's limited in scope can be a reasonable approach. My next question is: Is it common that the leak source isn't easily identified on inspection leaving roofers making their best guess?

I ask because no one has been able to see any obvious issues with the flashing. The roofer today said sometimes there are tiny pin holes in the caulking (noting it was a poor material to use where it was used when the roof was originally installed (prior owners) but they are difficult to see.

I know that, in general, finding the source of leaks can be challenging, especially since water can travel in a route that isn't a straight line from the entry point to the exit point. I don't know how to judge this company.

Should they be able to find the source of the leak or is it sometimes hard and can only be deduced? As I mentioned in a prior message, they are a highly reputable company, but my confidence has been shaken since they've continually said a seal break (and even showing photos from the install of a seal break on the original skylights), but apparently that was wrong.

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my many questions. It helps enormously!

Reply by InspectApedia DF (mod) - source of roof leaks can be hard to trace

@Jane,

Indeed the source of roof leaks can be hard to trace: the point of water entry is usually above the point at which we see the water appearing, though water can travel horizontally under roofing material as well.

The presence of your porch ceiling finish surface prevents us from seeing the water tracks that otherwise would be visible inside IF the leak were coming from a source other than the skylight or its flashing.

Often a water test can help us find a leak, if the hose is used to soak suspect points on the roof working slowly from lowest to higher suspect areas.

Otherwise what's left is

1. Seal better any suspect leak points using a good grade silicone sealant applied to a clean dry surface

2. At re-roof time, strip the shingles and underlayment and inspect the condition of the entire roof deck for rot, damage, or leak stains. (When you do that, be sure to post photos here of any leak stains or indicators that you find).

3. If this were over an interior space I'd perhaps counsel removing enough drywall and insulation to inspect from the inside but your re-roof plan and the fact that the leak is over an outside porch make that cost less justified.

On 2023-10-19 by Jane

@InspectApedia DF, Thank you so much. The help you so generously provide to people (through the volume of information you've amassed and your willingness to answer people's questions) is an exceptional public service!

Reply by InspectApedia DF (mod)

@Jane,

Thank you in return for your kind words. We've worked hard to provide researched, trusted information on these topics for decades so we're especially grateful when readers find it useful and reliable.

Your questions, photos, comments, and criticism help us as well.

Daniel

On 2023-10-19 by Jane - Leaks only after hours of rain - diagnostic?

@InspectApedia DF, Dare I raise one more issue/question? I trust you'll feel free to ignore if too much. The leak is very slow. By that I mean, it often takes many hours of steady (or heavy) rain for it to show up.

Does that clue suggest anything particular to you? Also, we inspected the area on the underside of the ceiling (inside the porch, not on the roof) for any signs of staining, drip marks, etc. that aligns with the small area on the floor where the puddle shows up and see nothing. How do you figure?

Reply by InspectApedia DF (mod)

@Jane,

Depending on the location of a roof leak and its size, indeed it may not show up inside under all wet conditions, and may appear after hard rain, prolonged rain, or when there is melting snow on the roof.

We can explain each of those types of leaks but without seeing details of your roof it's just too speculative to be useful.

On 2023-10-23 by Jane - Roofer can't find the leak in our roof

@InspectApedia DF, The roofer cannot clearly identify the source of the leak. We can move forward w/a narrow scope and replace the flashing and necessary shingles around it or replace the entire porch roof.

We prefer to do the narrow scope for a number of reasons. However, time and weather is an issue re: if the flashing replacement doesn't fix the leak and we have to move forward w/replacing the entire porch roof we're into colder weather.

However (and this is what I'd like your input on) perhaps we could hold off doing that until spring since the roofer is confident we're not at risk for ice dams and has even gone so far as to say that since the leak is so small and slow (water on porch floor is about 8" in diameter and it takes a heavy rain for it to show up) that we could even wait to do anything else until we replace our entire roof in 3-5 yrs assuming we didn't see the leak getting worse

The latter sounds a bit reckless, but I'd love to know if you think there can be situations where a leak can go for years w/o causing significant damage. It goes against my instinct to wait that long.

Also, can you weigh in on this idea about ice dams? I understand you can't see our roof in person, but at least, theoretically, let me know if this sounds plausible:

Ice dams wouldn’t be an issue since they occur under very particular conditions and affect only the perimeter of the house behind the eaves/soffits where warmth from the interior meets cold from the exterior. Requires about 3” of snow (minimum) and then a cold snap (below freezing around the clock) for a week or more.

Reply by InspectApedia Publisher - where do ice dams usually form

@Jane,

It's correct that I stand don't form on the outdoor porch roof because that's not overheated space. Where you might see an ice dam is if there is an intersection between the porch roof and the upper roof of the house itself.

More likely where the roof is not vented.

On 2023-10-24 by Jane

@InspectApedia Publisher, Thanks so much for getting back to me so quickly. We need to make a decision and your input / corroboration helps us!

 

Thank you to our readers for their generous comments

I greatly appreciate all your time helping me with this.

It's incredible how you give of your time in this way when people send you written descriptions and photos. On 2023-08-28 by Jane

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Continue reading at SKYLIGHT LEAK DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR - topic home, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

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