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Room thermostat installation & wiring guide: this article explains the basics of wiring connections at the thermostat for heating, heat pump, or air conditioning systems. We provide Honeywell, White Rodgers & other thermostat wiring diagrams and explanation showing how to wire a room thermostat, including just what connections to make and how wires and connectors are color coded to make things easy. Our page top sketch, courtesy of Honeywell Controls, illustrates the wiring diagram for a traditional Honeywell T87F thermostat used for 2-wire single pole single throw control of heating only in a typical gas-fired heating system. Other thermostat wiring schematics are provided below. We provide thermostat wiring connections for just about every type of residential heating or cooling room thermostat as well as a description of thermostat wiring color codes & conventions. At THERMOSTAT INSTALLATION STEPS we provide a step by step photo guide to installing a room thermostat. We also provide THERMOSTAT WIRING DIAGRAMS and a separate explanation of THERMOSTAT WIRE FUNCTIONS. Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman. Guide to Room Thermostat Installation, Location, & WiringWhere to Locate & Mount a Room Thermostat & what spots to avoid
Hooking up a 2-Wire Thermostat: How Do I Install & Wire Up a Room Thermostat like the Honeywell Round Wall T87F Series Thermostat?
Basic 2-wire Room Thermostat Wiring InstructionsWiring connections for a room thermostat such as the Honeywell 24-volt T87F, the Honeywell series 10 (out of production), or Penn "Rimset" low-voltage wall thermostat models are pretty simple as are the wiring instructions for White Rogers, Mercoid, General Controls, and similar thermostats. Two wire thermostat wiring instructions: In a two-wire installation, the thermostat backing plate is mounted level on an interior wall in the room which we want to be the master temperature control for the area served by the heating or cooling system. The red wire from the heater or air conditioner control is mounted to the "R" terminal on the backing plate. Typically the red wire is originating at the heating or air conditioning low voltage transformer and brings power to the thermostat. (See LOW VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER TEST) The white wire from the heater or air conditioner control is mounted to the "W" terminal on the thermostat mounting plate. Typically the white wire is taking power from the thermostat to the operating control circuit board in the heater or air conditioner. Our photo (above left) shows the backing plate that is mounted first when installing a round Honeywell Series 20 type room thermostat. Notice that the plate shows a "level" line. We left off the actual wires so that you could see the "R" and "W" by the two screw terminals at the lower left 7 and 8 o'clock positions on the thermostat backing plate.
Watch out: do not short any wires together. Turn off power & confirm it is off. Don't forget to turn off all electrical power involved with your heating system before working on thermostat wiring, and confirm that power is off where you are working by using an appropriate test instrument such as a VOM. Failure to respect this advice risks equipment damage, and in some cases electrical shock or even a building fire. Where do the Thermostat Wires Start and Where do they End-Up?As we explain in more detail at THERMOSTAT WIRING DIAGRAMS, For completeness in understanding where the red and white thermostat wires originate and end up, at below left we illustrate the red and white thermostat wires originating at the low voltage transformer, and at below right we illustrate a typical thermostat wiring connection in an R8182 Aquastat primary controller of a heating boiler, using the T and T terminals.
3-Wire Thermostats: Where Do We Connect the Red, White, & Blue (if present) Wires to a Typical Three-Wire Wall Thermostat?6-Wire Thermostats: Where Do We Connect the Red, White, & Blue, Yellow, Green, Orange Wires in a Typical Six-Wire Wall Thermostat?
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Table of Standard or Most-Common Thermostat Wire Colors Matched to Thermostat Terminal Names[see other thermostat brand specific wiring notes below] |
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| Thermostat Terminal Name |
Nominal Wire "Color"1 | Function |
|---|---|---|
| (B) | Blue, Orange | Energize to heat. Used on some systems including Rheem/Ruud HVAC systems. See (O) below. |
| (B) | Blue, brown , or black | Blue, brown , or black wire, common side of the transformer. Needed on some electronic thermostats or if the system uses indicator lamps. Watch out: do not confuse this terminal with the (B) discussed above. Check you brand, model, and installation manual/wiring diagram. (Also see (X) below) |
| (C) | Common side of the transformer (see "B") | |
| (E) | Blue, Pink, Gray, or Tan | Blue, pink, gray, or tan wire, emergency heat relay on a heat pump. [Active all the time when selected, usually not used -??] |
| (G) | Green | Furnace blower fan (used in air conditioners, heat pumps, some electric furnaces.) On most thermostats the (G) and (Y) terminals are connected together at all times when the fan switch is in the "Auto" mode. |
| (O) | Orange | Energize to cool, used for reversing valve on heat pump systems. |
| (R) | Red | Electrically live side ("hot" side) of the transformer wiring. Note 1. |
| (T) | Tan, Gray | Outdoor heat anticipator reset |
| (W) (W1) (W2) | White | "Heat", such as for a gas burner, oil burner, electric heat, or auxiliary heat on a heat pump, including the defrost output from an outdoor (condenser) that is used to activate electric heat at the compressor and to turn on the AUX heat lamp indicating that backup electric heat is in use or required. Some heat pumps require a jumper from (W) to (Y) to operate the heat pump.; |
| (X) | Also see (B) above. | |
| (Y) | Yellow | Compressor activity: cooling, or cooling and heating if on a heat pump |
Notes: 1. The [Honeywell 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012] thermostat cannot be used if your old thermostat had and used any two of the following wires: R, RC, RH, 4 and V.[5] |
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Complete tables for Thermostat Wiring Terminal Notes for the 3M-22 Filtrete Room Thermostat. Our photo just below shows all eleven possible thermostat control wire connection points on this device. (We don't like that sharp crimp in the red wire, nor should you.) Note the white wire connected to W and the red wire connected to RH and the jumper left in place between RH and RC. Wired as shown this thermostat works only from its own internal battery power.
How to Wire a 3M-22 Filtrete Room Thermostat For 2-wire Heating Only Systems |
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| Thermostat Terminal ID |
Wire Color or ID |
Two-Wire Heat Thermostat Hookup - Comments |
| White or W | White wire coming to the thermostat from the heater or from the secondary (C) terminal on the transformer, this wire connects the heat. | |
| Red or R or RH |
Red wire coming to the thermostat from transformer secondary (R) terminal. This connects the heat power. Leave in place the jumper wire between RH and RC. |
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| C if present |
If a third "C" wire is present this wire is used to provide power to the 3M-22 thermostat. Otherwise this thermostat is powered only by its batteries. | |
Notes: This wiring procedure works for 2-wire heat, oil or gas millivolt or 24VAC systems On a call for heat (room temperature drops below the thermostat set point, the thermostat connects W - RH to turn on the heating system. Watch out: this is a battery-operated thermostat. If the batteries fail the thermostat may fail to provide heating or cooling and the building may suffer accordingly. |
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How to Wire a 3M-22 Filtrete Room Thermostat For 3-Wire Heat Systems |
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| Thermostat Terminal ID |
Wire Color or ID |
Comments |
| White or W | W connects to heat | |
| Red or R or RH |
RH connects to heat power | |
| Green or G or F (fan) |
This wire (if present) controls the fan in forced warm air systems, fan convector heaters, and similar systems that use a fan. | |
| C - Common | If a "C" wire is also present this wire is used to provide power to the 3M-22 thermostat. Otherwise this thermostat is powered only by its batteries. | |
| Notes: | ||
How to Wire a 3M-22 Filtrete Room Thermostat For 4-Wire Heating & Air Conditioning Systems |
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| Thermostat Terminal ID |
Wire Color or ID |
Comments |
| White or W | W connects to heat | |
| Yellow or Y | Y connects to the cooling compressor/condenser unit | |
| Red or R or RH |
RH connects to heat power | |
| Green or G or F (fan) |
This wire (if present) controls the fan in forced warm air systems, fan convector heaters, and similar systems that use a fan. | |
| C - Common | If a "C" wire is also present this wire is used to provide power to the 3M-22 thermostat. Otherwise this thermostat is powered only by its batteries. | |
| Notes: | ||
How to Wire a 3M-22 Filtrete Room Thermostat For 4-Wire Heat Pump System |
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| Thermostat Terminal ID |
Wire Color or ID |
Comments |
| O or B wire | Connect the O or B wire to terminal O - this operates the reversing or "change-over" valve that switches between heating & cooling mode. If both O & B wires are present (as with Trane heat pumps), connect O wire to O terminal For Trane heat pumps connect the B wire to the C terminal. For other HVAC equipment, tape off the B wire. Watch out: do not connect the B wire to the B terminal on this thermostat. |
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| Yellow or Y | Y connects to the cooling compressor/condenser unit | |
| Red or R or RH |
RH connects to heat power | |
| Green or G or F (fan) |
This wire (if present) controls the fan in forced warm air systems, fan convector heaters, and similar systems that use a fan. | |
| C - Common | If a "C" wire is also present this wire is used to provide power to the 3M-22 thermostat. Otherwise this thermostat is powered only by its batteries. | |
| Notes: | ||
How to Wire a 3M-22 Filtrete Room Thermostat For 5-Wire Heating & Air Conditioning Systems |
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| Thermostat Terminal ID |
Wire Color or ID |
Comments |
| White or W | W connects to heat | |
| Yellow or Y | Y connects to the cooling compressor/condenser unit | |
| Jumper wire between these two terminals | Remove this jumper wire or clip so that RC and RH are no longer connected together | |
| Red or R or RH |
RH connects to heat power | |
| RC wire | RC connects power | |
| Green or G or F (fan) |
This wire (if present) controls the fan in forced warm air systems, fan convector heaters, and similar systems that use a fan. | |
| C - Common | If a "C" wire is also present this wire is used to provide power to the 3M-22 thermostat. Otherwise this thermostat is powered only by its batteries. | |
| Notes: | ||
How to Wire a 3M-22 Filtrete Room Thermostat For 5-Wire Heat Pump with Auxiliary or Backup Heat |
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| Thermostat Terminal ID |
Wire Color or ID |
Comments |
| O or B wire | Connect the O or B wire to terminal O - this operates the reversing or "change-over" valve that switches between heating & cooling mode. If both O & B wires are present (as with Trane heat pumps), connect O wire to O terminal For Trane heat pumps connect the B wire to the C terminal. For other HVAC equipment, tape off the B wire. Watch out: do not connect the B wire to the B terminal on this thermostat. |
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| W2 wire | The W2 wire controls the auxiliary heat or backup heat source. |
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| Yellow or Y | Y connects to the cooling compressor/condenser unit | |
| Red or R or RH |
RH connects to heat power | |
| Green or G or F (fan) |
This wire (if present) controls the fan in forced warm air systems, fan convector heaters, and similar systems that use a fan. | |
| C - Common | If a "C" wire is also present this wire is used to provide power to the 3M-22 thermostat. Otherwise this thermostat is powered only by its batteries. | |
Notes: Some heat pumps with auxiliary / backup heat use staged backup heat and additional controls and wires may be required. See the next table. |
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How to Wire a 3M-22 Filtrete Room Thermostat For Heat Pump with Two-Stage Auxiliary or Backup Heat |
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| Thermostat Terminal ID |
Wire Color or ID |
Comments |
| White or W | W or W1 operates the auxiliary stage 1 backup heat | |
| W2 wire | W2 operates the auxiliary stage 2 backup heat | |
| Yellow or Y | Y or Y1 operates the first stage cooling system | |
| Y2 wire | Y2 operates the second stage of 2-stage cooling systems | |
| Red or R or RH |
RH connects to heat power | |
| C - Common | If a "C" wire is also present this wire is used to provide power to the 3M-22 thermostat. Otherwise this thermostat is powered only by its batteries. | |
| Notes: | ||
How to Wire a General Electric (GE), Trane, American Standard HVAC Thermostat |
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| Numbers | Refer to the equipment wiring diagram (usually glued inside the equipment access covers and in the the installation/service manual). May be stages of electric heat, especially on Air-Pro, Borg Warner, Coleman-Evcon, Frasier Johnson |
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| Blue, Brown, Tan, or Gray | Service indicator lamp | |
| Pink or other color | Second stage of heat (may be same as (W) on heat pump or oil/gas systems. | |
| Second stage of electric heat on GE/Trane/American Standard systems. Also used as indicator lamp or misc. contact on other systems. | ||
| Blue, Pink | Compressor second stage | |
How to Wire a typical Flair 3-wire type Wall Thermostat(3 wires found in use at the wall thermostat) Flair model ANOVO Thermostat fed from a Flair zone valve |
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| As wire colors may vary, note the wire colors | Wire coming from Flair zone valve terminal (4) "Open" . Note 1. | |
| At the Flair zone valve and | Wire coming from Flair zone valve terminal (5) "Common" | |
| Match those colors to terminals at the thermostat as shown here | Wire coming from Flair zone valve terminal (6) "Closed" | |
Notes: 1. The [Honeywell 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012] thermostat cannot be used if your old thermostat had and used any two of the following wires: R, RC, RH, 4 and V.[5] |
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(3 wires found in-use at the wall thermostat) |
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| Thermostat Terminal ID |
Wire Color | Three-Wire Heat Thermostat Hookup Comments |
| Red | Red wire coming to the thermostat from the heater. See Note 1 in the table above. | |
| Blue wire |
For Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostats Connect the blue wire coming to the thermostat from the heater or air conditioner | |
| White wire | Watch out: For Honeywell Wall Series 20 type Thermostats connect the white wire coming to the thermostat from the heater or air conditioner to the (Y) terminal, not the (W) terminal. | |
| 1. Also see Honeywell Thermostat Wiring Diagrams - Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostats | ||
| Honeywell the 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012 alternative wiring tips | ||
|---|---|---|
| Old thermostat wire label | Connects to RTH2300B Terminal | Comments |
| C, C1, X, B | nothing - not used | Note 1 |
| O, B, H | O/B | |
| Y, Y1, M | Y | Note 3 |
| R, RC, RH, 4, V | R | Note 2 |
| G, F, L | G | |
| W, W1, W2, H | W | Note 3 |
Notes: 1. Do not use C, C1 or X wire. Do not use B wire if you already have O wire. Wrap bare end of wire with electrical tape. 2. This thermostat cannot be used if your old thermostat had [and used] any two of the following wires: R, RC, RH, 4 and V. 3. Place a jumper (piece of wire) between Y and W if you have a heat pump without auxiliary/back-up heat. |
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Thermostat Wiring Terminal Notes for typical Two-Wire Honeywell T87-F type Wall Thermostats (only 2 wires found in-use at the wall thermostat) Honeywell thermostat T87F type models include the Super Tradeline T87F1959 (replaces the T26A1433 and T87C1252), T87F1867, T87F2816, T87F2824, T87F2873. These thermostat T87F models vary by the operating temperature range they support and a few other simple features such as the presence or absence of a thermometer. Functionally and for wiring they are similar. |
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| Thermostat Terminal ID |
Wire Color | Two-Wire Heat Thermostat Hookup Comments |
| Red | Red wire coming to the thermostat from the heater. Connected to the R terminal in the room thermostat. See Note 1 in the table above. |
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| White | White wire coming to the thermostat from the heater, connect to the W terminal in the thermostat. | |
Notes: 1. The [Honeywell 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012] thermostat cannot be used if your old thermostat had [and used] any two of the following wires: R, RC, RH, 4 and V.[5] 2. Also see Honeywell Thermostat Wiring Diagrams 3. Some thermostats will be supplied with a jumper wire or clip between the thermostat RH and RC terminal and will not provide a simple R terminal (such as the 3M-22 Filtrete). Connect the red wire to RH and leave the jumper in place. |
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(3 wires found in-use at the wall thermostat) |
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| Thermostat Terminal ID |
Wire Color | Three-Wire Heat Thermostat Hookup Comments |
(RH) |
Red | Red wire coming to the thermostat from the heater. See Note 1 in the table above. |
| Blue wire |
For Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostats Connect the blue wire coming to the thermostat from the heater or air conditioner | |
| White wire | Watch out: For Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostats connect the white wire coming to the thermostat from the heater or air conditioner to the (Y) terminal, not the (W) terminal. | |
| 1. Also see Honeywell Thermostat Wiring Diagrams - Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostats | ||
Thermostat Wiring Terminal Notes for White Rodgers 1F90 Low Voltage Programmable Digital Comfort-Set |
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White Rodgers 1F90 Used For 2-wire Heating Only Systems |
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| White | White wire coming to the thermostat from the heater or from the secondary (C) terminal on the transformer, routed through a White Rodgers isolation relay. | |
| Red | Red wire coming to the thermostat from transformer secondary (R) terminal. The same transformer (R) terminal typically also feeds a gas valve or vent damper, but not through the thermostat. See Note 1 in the table above. | |
White Rodgers 1F90 Used For 3-Wire Series 10 Heating Systems |
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| White | White wire coming to the thermostat from the heater | |
| Red | Red wire coming to the thermostat from the heater. From transformer secondary (R) terminal. Note 1 | |
| jumper wire | Add a jumper between (R) and (B) on the primary control | |
| jumper wire | Add a jumper between (R) and (B) on the primary control. Note 1. | |
Notes: 1. The [Honeywell 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012] thermostat cannot be used if your old thermostat had and used any two of the following wires: R, RC, RH, 4 and V.[5] 2. Color: markings in the thermostat wall plate or in some models at other terminals on the thermostat body itself may indicate conventional wire colors that connect to this terminal, or the terminal ID with a letter such as "R" = red, as we illustrate above. Watch out: the colors of the wires that you connect to these terminals do not necessarily match the nominal "terminal ID", as we illustrated above at "How Do I Install & Wire Up a Room Thermostat ". To allow for someone not following thermostat wire color conventions, when replacing an existing wall thermostat we identify and label the wires according to the letters marked on the terminal block to which the wires were actually connected. 3. Also see White Rodgers Thermostat Wiring Diagrams for more illustrations |
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Lennox thermostat and equipment wiring color codes may vary significantly from common usage. Be sure to consult with Lennox and obtain the proper installation manual for your equipment.
White Rodgers Thermostat Terminal Identification Table |
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| Old Thermostat Terminal Marking or ID | Old Thermostat Type | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Notes: 1. Source: White Rodgers 1F90 Low Voltage Digital Comfort Set Thermostat Installation Instructions [7] |
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Map of Old White Rodgers Thermostat Terminals (4 M R R5 RH H W) to New White Rodgers Thermostat Terminals |
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| Old Thermostat Type | New | Old | New | Old | New | Old | New | Old | New | Old | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| RH | 4 | W | W | RC | RC | Y | Y | G | G | |||||
| RH | RH | W | W | RC | RC | Y | Y | G | G | |||||
| RH | M | W | H | RC | V | Y | C | G | F | |||||
| RH | R5 | W | 4 | Y | Y6 | G | G | |||||||
| RH | R | W | W | Y | Y | G | G | |||||||
Notes: 1. Source: White Rodgers 1F90 Low Voltage Digital Comfort Set Thermostat Installation Instructions [7] |
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Our furnace thermostat failed after an adjacent water heater installation. I noticed that wires were pinched between the water heater and the gas pipe. After I loosened the safety straps and freed the wire, the thermostat works. (I reset the furnace). Were squished wires the cause of a temporary short and will the wires keep working if they are undisturbed? - Larry 8/2/11
Yes it's surely possible that your thermostat wires were shorted.
Now a short in those wires sometimes lets you off the hook with no trouble, since the wires and thermostat are basically an "on-off" switch that calls for heat (or no heat).
But a thermostat wire short at the transformer could burn out the low voltage transformer that powers the thermostat and heating controls or maybe even damage the thermostat itself.
Find and check the low voltage transformer (often it's mounted near your furnace, on an electrical junction box, or it may be integral in your heater control unit). See How to Troubleshoot Low Voltage Transformers for Heating & Air Conditioning Thermostats
I am installing a 3 zone in-floor radiant system in my home. Every thing is going well so far, except I am running into an issue where Honeywell (my T-Stat manufacture) is telling me my RHT2300B t-stat cannot be used with my in-floor zone controller (Azel i-Link sp-83) when I call their tech support hotline.
They cannot tell me why or what their letter designations mean.
I am an industrial controls electrician of 23 years, who I must confess, does not have much experience with HVAC.
All I need is a simple t-stat that sends voltage (24vac) when heat is called for to my controller and opens back up (back to zero volts) when the set-point is achieved. I am having a hard time believing that this t-stat is not capable of doing that. Can any one help?
Eric - Eric 9/9/11
Eric,
I found two important details in researching your question:
1. you gave me an in-valid Honeywell thermostat number, but I was able to guess at the correct one and easily obtain wiring instructions from Honeywell. Correctly your thermostat is the Honeywell 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012
2. For the Honeywell thermostat model that you mention, correctly named, Honeywell's instructions point out that
The [Honeywell 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012] thermostat cannot be used if your old thermostat had [and used] any two of the following wires: R, RC, RH, 4 and V.[5]
Call back and ask for senior service tech or service manager. So if, when you spoke with the Honeywell service technician, and if your old thermostat included and used any two of the wire labels I quote above, then indeed, even if s/he couldn't explain why, indeed you cannot use this thermostat model for your application.
Remember that ultimately a thermostat is simply an on-off switch, or provides several on-off functions. But with multiple zone heat, you should expect to provide a thermostat for each individual zone - else they're not heating zones at all. In a traditional hot water heating system that does not use the Azel i-Link controller the first thermostat is wired directly to an aquastat that controls the first zone; the second two thermostats are wired to individual circulator relays (if individual circulator pumps are used) or to individual zone valves (if a single circulator runs the whole system).
Where zone valves are used, an end switch closes to turn on the circulator (a logical inclusive OR function with the other zone valves) when the zone valve opens to allow hot water to flow. That same principle is used when wiring the Azel i-Link Zone Switching Relay. And the company makes clear that their controller is compatible with standard thermostats:
ALL - controls are compatible with 2, 3 or 4 wire type thermostats. 24VAC output can be used to supply power to the thermostat. For thermostats requiring the 24VAC Common, simply connect C terminal from the thermostat to COM terminal on the 24VACoutput.[4]
First let's make sure you've identified your Honeywell thermostat model correctly.
Your [Honeywell thermostat] model number will begin with the letters, T, TH, RTH, C, or CT and is on the back of the thermostat.[5]
Honeywell RHT2300B - the number you gave, doesn't look right, but you probably meant RTH-2300-B. Calling Honeywell with the right product number (Tel: 800-468-1502) might produce better results. Honeywell has done a great job making installation and operations manuals available for their equipment, but you've got to search with the right product number.
Searching the Honeywell site for the corrected thermostat number delivers a single product that's probably yours, the 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012. In fact this thermostat is widely sold including at Home Depot stores, and I've installed and used this very model myself to control an add-on hot water heating zone and Taco circulator in an older home. According to Honeywell, this thermostat is compatible with:
For your model you want Honeywell document 69-2326ES - found at http://customer.honeywell.com/Honeywell/getliterature.axd?LiteratureID=69-2326ES.pdf - owners operation manual or
document 69-2327ES - for installation materials - found at
http://customer.honeywell.com/Honeywell/getliterature.axd?LiteratureID=69-2327ES.pdf
Here are details from that manual's instructions for wiring the Honeywell RTH-2300-B 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat beginning with the inspection of the existing wires:
3. Identify and label each of the existing thermostat wires by using not the wire colors (someone could have made a wire color error and violated convention) but rather, identify each existing thermostat wire by noting the letter next to the old thermostat wiring block terminals where each wire was connected to a screw. Identify and label the wires that are connected as
If any wires are not attached to your old thermostat or are attached to a terminal marked C or C1, they will not be connected to your new thermostat. Wrap the bare metal end of each of these wires with electrical tape, so it cannot touch and short other wires.
Watch out: since here we are focusing on connections, I am leaving out some important procedure and safety details like removing and taping each wire end to avoid shorting, etc. so be sure to consult the installation manual in detail.
On your new thermostat, the Honeywell the 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012, connect the wires you labeled as follows:
If the wire labels from your old thermostat hookup don't match the above, Honeywell offers additional advice that we adapt in table form:
| Honeywell the 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012 alternative wiring tips | ||
|---|---|---|
| Old thermostat wire label | Connects to RTH2300B Terminal | Comments |
| C, C1, X, B | nothing - not used | Note 1 |
| O, B, H | O/B | |
| Y, Y1, M | Y | Note 3 |
| R, RC, RH, 4, V | R | Note 2 |
| G, F, L | G | |
| W, W1, W2, H | W | Note 3 |
Notes: 1. Do not use C, C1 or X wire. Do not use B wire if you already have O wire. Wrap bare end of wire with electrical tape. 2. This thermostat cannot be used if your old thermostat had [and used] any two of the following wires: R, RC, RH, 4 and V. 3. Place a jumper (piece of wire) between Y and W if you have a heat pump without auxiliary/back-up heat. Other methods for identifying thermostat wires are at THERMOSTAT WIRING TIPS & COLOR CODES and at THERMOSTAT WIRE FUNCTIONS. |
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In a radiant floor heating system that uses a controller, the additional thermostats must be wired to instruct that controller to send heat to their zones. Azel Technologies, a Canadian heating controller manufacturer, provides installation instructions and wiring diagrams for their controllers, including the Azel i-Link SP83-here is a copy.
Or contact Azel Technologies Inc., P.O. Box 53138 10 Royal Orchard Blvd. Thornhill, Ontario, Canada L3T 7R9 Ph: 905-223-5567 Fax: 905-223-3778 Email: info@azeltec.com, Website: www.azeltec.com.
I am adding a third zone (basement) to my oil fired hot water baseboard heating and have it all planned as far as the plumbing is concerned. The zone will have it's own 24V zone valve so will require a wall mounted thermostat. I'm only looking for heat so I believe a 2 wire thermostat is sufficient. My other two zones have their own valves and thermostats and the wiring at the valves is all connected with wire nuts and doesn't make any sense to me.
I guess my question is, can I just connect my new valve and thermostat directly to the aquastat terminals that "appear" to power the other valves and thermostats ?
If so, is there anything I need to be aware of, like possibly wiring it backwards and frying something ?
If I can just add the new "loop" directly to the aquastat, in what order are the connections made ? Example, aquastat to one connection at valve, 2nd connection at valve to one connection at thermostat, other connection at thermostat back to aquastat ?
If you need me to provide more detail on the types of thermostat, aquastat and zone valve I am using I can. My zone valve has two red wires and two yellow wires. The instructions seem to indicate that I only use the yellow wires and the red wires were for auxiliary, whatever that is.
Would much appreciate your input. Thanks. - Will 11/10/11
Will I think this will help clear things up a little for wiring a 3rd heating zone using a zone valve approach:
When the TT calls for heat (yes 2 wire is fine) it tells the zone valve for its zone to OPEN. When the zone valve is fully open it in turn tells the circulator pump to start pumping. (There is an "end switch" in the zone valve that performs this second function).
So you'll find a pair of wires from TT to the zone valve and a pair of wires from the zone valve to the circulator relay.
Watch out though: the wiring connections can vary a bit among zone valve brands - if all of yours are the same brand you can look at the existing valve, follow the wires, and you'll see how the zone valve is hooked up. If there are different brands you'll need to ask for a clue from your HVAC supplier or the manufacturer.
Reader follow-up:
Dan, thanks for the information. So I effectively have two circuits to connect. One 24v circuit runs in series as follows - transformer, zone valve, thermostat, transformer. Please can you confirm this.
The other circuit is simply connecting the other two wires on the zone valve to the connections on the circulator relay.
For the first circuit, do you know where my transformer is likely to be located ? I have the box on the front of my furnace which contains controls for how hot the water gets and when it needs to be heated. Would it be in there ?
For the second circuit to the relay, I'm assuming the relay is attached to the circulator pump itself.
Hello - I am replacing a round Honeywell thermostat with a non-programmable digital Honeywell unit. I have a hot water system with multiple zones and with no air conditioning. There are three wires at the thermostat. On the old round unit the red wire went to the R terminal, the white wire went to the w terminal and a green wire went to B terminal. I hooked up the new stat the same way but it would not work. If I selected "fan on" instead of "fan auto" the zone would heat up but would not shut off (hot water kept flowing even if I selected a temp below room temp). Appreciate your help. - Patrick - 1/20/12
Patrick, typically the three wire thermostat hookups would be exactly the same for the old and new thermostats.
For details of wiring a typical and simple digital Honeywell thermostat, see Honeywell 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2300B1012.
For help in understanding the wiring of your old thermostat, see Three-Wire Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostat wiring and also see Generic HVAC Thermostat Control Wiring Points
Greetings, not sure if anyone saw this or not, but whoever S.R. is above in the description about shorting out wires seems to maybe have missed the fact that the "E" they refer to is actually a "3" amp fuse and not a 4 amp fuse. My HVAC installer of 30 years who recently installed 2 furnaces for us and is installing my heat pump agrees that it is a 3 amp fuse. We purchased an extra one just in case. Putting a 4 amp in there may not be good for the board as it may allow too much current for a relay or something and you may fry a piece on the board which is most likely not cheap. I hope this helps - D.M. - 3/12/12
Thanks D.M., We posted your important fuse size comment right in the article at Shorting Out Thermostat Wires - Leads to Loss of Heat.
I have a 1f86 Non programmable White Rogers i matched up the R to Red W to White and O/B to Black But I Get nothing and unfortunately I stay in a condo with base floor panels so i cant really hear if the heat comes on or not. How do i wire this thermostat correctly - Anon 4/24/12
I am replacing an old mercury thermostat with a digital. my system is a heat pump. my neighbor gave me the digital, no instructions, no box. i'm trying to decide if this is even a heat pump compatible thermostat. on the therm it has c, g, rc, rh (which are linked by a black wire.) w, y, b, and o. coming out of my wall is, white connected on old therm w2, yellow connected to y, green conn g, black conn e, red to r, blue to b and bro to x. any help would be great. - Kurt 6/4/12
Kurt, as you see in the examples at For help in understanding the wiring of your old thermostat, see Three-Wire Honeywell Wall T87-F type Thermostat wiring and also see Generic HVAC Thermostat Control Wiring Points. Many thermostat wiring setups are straightforward or "cookbook" but why not find the brand name on your thermostat and then you can obtain the installation instructions right from the manufacturer?
Also, Honeywell's thermostat replacement advice (and most likely that of all thermostat manufacturers) warns:
Watch out: MERCURY NOTICE: Do not put your old thermostat in the trash if it contains mercury in a sealed tube. Contact your local waste management authority for instructions regarding recycling and proper disposal.[5]
- Helpful Pointers Regarding 24V T, 10/7/2012
Helpful, thanks so much for the detailed tips on wiring 24-volt room thermostats. I've inserted your remarks into the main article body above, beginning at 9 Thermostat Wiring Tips for 24V Thermostats. You are welcome to email me with contact information if you want to be identified or receive reader referrals. Also, sorry that the comment form software chopped off the end of your text point 9 -thanks for filling it in. We are dedicated to making our information as accurate, complete, useful, and unbiased as possible: we very much welcome critique, questions, or content suggestions for our web articles. Working together and exchanging information makes us better informed than any individual can be working alone. - Ed.
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