Guide to line voltage thermostats 120V or 240V room thermostats for electric heat, fan heaters, radiant floor heat, convector heaters.
This article describes types of line voltage wall or floor thermostats used to control heating or heating & cooling equipment where switching of 120V or 240V devices is required.
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In this article we give examples of wiring instructions for both 120VAC and 230/240VAC electric heat thermostats, including both wall-mounted models and "built-in" electric baseboard heater thermostats that mount at either end of the electric heating baseboard itself.
We list brands and models of electric heat thermostats including programmable and non-programmable models. To help you find a replacement thermostat for your original model we include manufacturer's electric heat thermostat cross-reference sheets.
Shown here: a drawing of an older classic Honeywell wall-mounted thermostat controlling electric baseboard heat. Here you'll find:
An InspectAPedia reader asked:
I have a two wire honey well thermostat T451A - I want to replace this thermostat with a programmable. Presently there is a two wire ( black and White ) 120 volt line; Any suggestions ? Thank you - M.S. 3/15/2013
Watch out: Turn off power source to the heater before attempting installation, maintenance or repairs. Lock, tape or tag circuit breaker or fuse so that power cannot be turned on by accident. Failure to do so could result in serious electrical shock, burns or possible death. - King Electric cited below.
The Honeywell T451A room thermostat (illustration at left) is a line-voltage (120V) wall thermostat, a member of the product family including the T651 and T694 light duty line voltage wall thermostats.
These controls are widely used to directly control 120-V equipment such as valves, fans, motors, contactors, and electric heat systems as well as fan coil units in heating/cooling systems. Illustration at left of the Honeywell T415A and T651A from product literature. [4]
The T451 is a heat-only controller - I'm guessing yours may be controlling electric heat. I understand why you asked for help. Honeywell's own website includes a "thermostat finder" feature but is unable to give even one suggestion for a programmable line-voltage room wall thermostat. Happily the news is better than that.
Honeywell gives a succinct description of this class of wall thermostats:
Line voltage thermostats control the electricity directly, thus the name "line voltage." If you have a baseboard heater, electric wall heater, or resistive electric heater, you may require a line voltage thermostat. These thermostats are generally made for either 2 wires (SPST) or 4 wires (DPST - more common). ...
These are NOT to be used with gas heating systems (gas heaters are generally single stage systems). Most line voltage systems are mechanical rather than digital programmable, and are almost always either 2 or 4 wires.... [however there are indeed some programmable line-voltage thermostats available as we list below ] [5]
Honeywell's newer replacement for the T451 includes the Honeywell TH114 which is also non-programmable and NOT what you want.
The typical wiring connections for older, non-programmable line voltage thermostats is described ain Honeywell's T451A, T651A, T694A,B,D,F Light Duty Line Voltage Thermostats from which we excerpt and adapt some advice from Honeywell:
Watch out: disconnect all electrical power before making any electrical connections, tests, or even touching wiring on line voltage thermostat systems.
While some old timers figure out wiring by shorting thermostat wires together, that is imaginable only for low-voltage thermostat systems.
Touching live line voltage wires risks death by electrocution as well as fire, shock, and equipment damage.
Watch out: Before attempting to install your heater, verify that the power supply wires are the same voltage as the heater you are installing. The best way to check for proper voltage is by using a voltmeter, testing between supply line 1 and 2. 240 and 120 Volt heaters are not interchangeable.
Connecting a 120 Volt heater to a 240 Volt circuit will destroy the heater, could cause fire damage, personal injury or death, and, voids all warranties. - King Electric, cited below.
Watch Out: be sure to check the total wattage of heating equipment that you are going to be switching against the capacity limits of the programmable (or non-programmable) line voltage wall thermostat you plan to purchase and install. For example the Lux PLSPLV512 we recommended above is rated to control 1900 to 3800 watts.
See this older 1949 Honeywell Control Handbook [PDF] for an explanation of older line voltage (120-Volt) and 24-Volt thermostats and other controls such as the T40 series 4-wire 120V T44 Thermostat
The installation manual for your particular line voltage room thermostat will include connections for additional wires that may be necessary when the thermostat is being use in more complex installations such as connections to a winter-summer changeover switch, connections to control a separate blower fan motor, etc. - Op. Cit.
2019/11/02 DustMan said:
I have a Honeywell T651-A2028 and I want to replace it. I think it has a unique wiring setup that I cannot understand.
There are 3 wires connected to it, 1 has 120v (COM) and the others have no volts (HEAT & COOL).
My apartment complex has very old radiators that have constant supply of hot water in the winter and cold water in the summer. The thermostat only controls the power to the fan at each radiator.
When the apartment complex switches from hot to cold or vice versa they somehow change the wiring so the thermostat can cool or heat appropriately. What are my options for replacements?
Dusty
Thank you for the photo and question - interesting and helpful to other readers.
Above on this page you'll see a very simple line voltage thermostat wiring diagram [image file] that matches your thermostat exactly.
To replace an older Honeywell T652-A2028 line voltage thermostat, the company sells a line of replacement "light duty" line voltage thermostats that can match the functions and wiring of your original unit.
Watch out: Select the right thermostat replacement model.
You'll see that if you select a thermostat that supports both heating and cooling modes, the replacement line voltage 'stats have the identical terminals as those shown your photo of the Honeywell T651-A2028 - that is, COM (common), HEAT, and COOL.
From your description, you are replacing a fan coil heating / cooling unit thermostat. All your thermostat is doing is switching the fan motor on and off in response to a call for heat (in HEAT mode) or a call for cooling (in COOL mode).
I suspect from your note that the model you want is the Honeywell T651A3018 as that thermostat is listed as replacing the Honeywell T451A1264 T451B1008 T451B1024 T451B1032 T451B1057 T451B1065 T451B1073 T451B1081 T651A1269 T651A2028 T651A3000 units.
See HONEYWELL LINE VOLTAGE THERMOSTATS (light duty) SELECTION & WIRING GUIDE [PDF] (cited in detail below) for wiring instructions for current or replacement line voltage thermostats, including the T451A, T651A, T694A,B,D,F Light Duty Line Voltage Thermostat. The company explains that
T451, T651, T694 Thermostats provide on-off control of valves, fans, motors, contactors, electric heat elements, duct furnaces and fan coil units in heating/cooling systems. Switching subbases provide manual control of heating, cooling and fan.
The table above on this page at LINE VOLTAGE THERMOSTATS for HEAT + COOL is a line voltage thermostat selection guide from Honeywell's document
In essence the thermostat is switching on a heating or cooling circuit depending on room temperature and the thermostat's front switch mode settings (HEAT COOL)
Below is just one example wiring diagram of several given in the selection and wiring guide I just cited. Your wiring situation is simpler.
Watch out: your thermostat model and wiring requirements may differ; be sure to read the wiring instructions for your heating & cooling equipment and from the thermostat's manufacturer.
Also if you are not trained in safe, code-compliant, electrical wiring do not attempt any electrical work - hire a professional instead; making a mistake could result in fire, injury, or worse.
I just bought the Honeywell line volt pro 8000.
Attached to the thermostat are two black wires and two red wires...however, coming out of my wall from my old thermostat are green, blue, white and red wires.
Can you help me with what I connect to what? - M.B. 6/18/2014
If you've lost the wiring instructions for the thermostat you're wiring let me know and we'll help dig up that information
I have the instruction book, but I do not see how I am supposed to connect the two black wires and two red wires on the back of the thermostat and the green, blue, white and red wires coming out from the wall.
I attach an image from Honeywell's Line Volt Pro 8000 instructions (source cited below) - but I do NOT know if this is exactly the model of thermostat you purchased.
Generic thermostat wire codes are described at
THERMOSTAT WIRING COLOR CODES
where G W R B wires are identified.
Watch out: Your reference to color codes makes me worry that you are trying to install a line voltage (120V or 240V AC) thermostat intended to control an electric baseboard heater where previously you had a low-voltage 24V wall thermostat that turned a heating boiler or furnace on and off,
BECAUSE the thermostat you are describing is used to wire electric baseboard heaters NOT to turn on and off a furnace or boiler.
The instructions for your line thermostat should identify each of the thermostat's wires.
Honeywell's instructions identify four wires, 2 black (connect to the LINE terminals of the electric baseboard heater - the incoming power) and 2 white wires (connecting to the LOAD terminals of the electric baseboard heater).
Honeywell says that the wiring hookup details are on the back of the unit's power module. If you don't see that data you can also call Honeywell's tech support line at
800-468-1502
Here are comments from a product review of the Honeywell LineVoltPRO™ electric heater thermostat control
Use a volt meter, your dealing with 240V!! Turn OFF breaker... read diagram on instructions carefully.. the wires on thermostat to connect to load are NOT top top to load but rather top and bottom to load. ... - 7/3/2014 retrieved from Amazon.com product reviews for this thermostat
Other product review comments warn that the device is very heat sensitive and its location should be chosen carefully.
Watch out: Read the entire document
CAUTION:
Watch out: do NOT use CO/ALR - this statement from Honeywell is obsolete and is no longer safe advice. There are, however, safe and approved aluminum wiring repair methods that you can use.
See ALUMINUM WIRING HAZARDS & REPAIRS for advice about proper and US CPSC recommended repairs for aluminum electrical wiring, and see these warnings
about ALUMINUM WIRING REPAIR COALR & CU-AL
Excerpt adapted from Honeywell's instructions for the Line Volt Pro - retrieved 7/3/2014, original source https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/69-0000s/69-1804EFS.pdf
Our photos and wiring diagram for a Marley D-26 wall-mounted line-voltage thermostat illustrate how this simple 240VAC thermostat is wired to the electric baseboard heater.
In short, the red wires from the switch connect, one-each, to each of the incoming 240VAC line voltage wires of the heating circuit.
The black wires from the switch connect to the two wires or terminals from the electric baseboard.
Above and below, the front and back of a Marley MD-26 wall-mounted line-voltage thermostat used with electric baseboard heat.
[Click to enlarge any image]
Watch out: Turn off power source to the heater before attempting installation, maintenance or repairs. Lock, tape or tag circuit breaker or fuse so that power cannot be turned on by accident.
Failure to do so could result in serious electrical shock, burns or possible death. - Op. Cit.
Below: wiring diagram, adapted from the manufacturer's packing illustration, shows how a a Marley D-26 wall-mounted line-voltage thermostat illustrate how this 240VAC thermostat is wired to the electric baseboard heater.
Watch out: Before attempting to install your heater, verify that the power supply wires are the same voltage as the heater you are installing.
The best way to check for proper voltage is by using a voltmeter, testing between supply line 1 and 2. 240 and 120 Volt heaters are not interchangeable.
Connecting a 240 Volt heater to a 120 Volt circuit will reduce the wattage 75% making the heater feel barely warm.
Connecting a 120 Volt heater to a 240 Volt circuit will destroy the heater, could cause fire damage, personal injury or death, and, voids all warranties. - King Electric, cited below.
Other Honeywell line voltage thermostats and line voltage thermostats from other manufacturers, however should work fine where you want to add thermostat programmability, automatic setbacks, etc.
Examples of modern line-voltage programmable room thermostats include:
Honeywell TL8130A1005 - for electric baseboards and fan-forced heaters. (This is a single-function or "heat only" single-pole-single-throw (SPST) thermostat. Approximate Price: $50. U.S. designed to control 240V heating equipment.
Honeywell YTL9160AR1000 - line voltage, heat only, for electric baseboard or fan convector or fan-forced heaters, is an interesting development in wireless thermostats.
The kit includes a Wireless EConnect programmable wall thermostat and one Electric Heating Equipment Interface Module (EHEIM). Each EHEIM can support a maximum load of 3000W at 240V - figure $150. U.S.
The Honeywell EConnect™ TL9160AR is shown above.
Honeywell's EConnect™ wireless thermostats can accept up to 8 EIMs on a single thermostat - sketch below right.
Honeywell EConnect™ wireless thermostats can control multiple electric heating baseboard units but only up to a total amperage load specified by the manufacturer, e.g. 12.5A - sketch, below [6]
Also see the King electronic programmable thermostats cited below on this page.
Line Voltage Thermostat, Heating Only Digital Programmable, Switch Type DPST, Switch Action Open on Rise, Number of Switches 1, Sensor Type Thermistor, Digital 7 Day Programmable, 15 Amps Max; 3600 Watts at 240 VAC, 3120 Watts at 208 VAC, For Use With Electric baseboards, convectors and fan forced heaters (resistive rated loads), Color White, Application Heating, 7 Programs per Week, Digital LCD Display, 208-240, 208-240, -, -, 15, 15, 15, 2, UL, CSA
Lux PSPLV512 - 120V or 240V programmable wall thermostat intended for electric baseboard or radiant type electric heat, about $50. U.S.
Lux Luxpro Programmable Line Voltage Thermostat -( $70. U.S.) 120/240V SPST 1,900W at 120VAC (non inductive). 3,800W at 240VAC (noninductive).
[Illustrated above]
Radimo Radistat-Pro, line voltage 120/240V thermostat intended for electric radiant floor heating ($120) available through Sears
This thermostat, or its double, appears under a range of name brands, so we suspect they're all the same product sold with re-branding as Radimo. Laticrete, etc
Dayton's line voltage room thermostat shown here is the Dayton 1UHG4 heating-only digital, programmable room thermostat suitable for electric heat control. About $57. U.S.
Specifications from granger.com include:
Line Voltage Thermostat, 5+1+1 Programmable, Switch Type SPST, Switch Action Open / Close on Rise, Number Of Switches 1, Control Range 41-95 F, Differential +/- 1 Deg F, Height 4 1/4 In, Width 3 5/8 In, Depth 1 1/4 In, Temp Sensitivity +/- 1 Deg F, Sensor Type NTC Thermistor, For Use With Heat Only, Color White, Application Programming 5+1+1, LCD Display, Enclosure Type PVC, Includes Screws and Mounting Plate
Trane also produces a range of line voltage thermostats (Trane Line Voltage Thermostat M TC126 004 NIB, Trane TX 126 004, Trane T4039M1095, Trane THT0567) and programmable thermostats (ComfortLink™II, Trane XL900-XL200 compatible with 24-V systems when a 24-V relay accessory panel is added), with more information from from Trane.
Trane's wide array of electric unit heaters (wall mounted, ceiling suspended & others) include some models that can be operated from a room thermostat (24V WD1 or WD2 controlling 240V heaters or WD3/WD4 120V control operating 240V heaters with additional line voltage and 600-volt controllers available). [7]
Honeywell T6052A1015 - heating or cooling, but not programmable, SPDT thermostat.
About $140. U.S. Supports 2-stage heat and 2-stage cooling.
An older T652-A2028 line voltage thermostat, shown in our reader's photo here, can be replaced by one of Honeywell's newer light duty line voltage thermostats such as the Honeywell T694D2009 but
Watch out: there are several models of line voltage thermostats supporting both heating and cooling from which to select depending on your application.
Be sure to read the instructions from the manufacturer of your heating and cooling equipment as well as the Honeywell company's guidance in the Honeywell reference we cite below.
An example wiring diagram, one of several - so this may not be the right wiring for your equipment - is shown below.
[Click to enlarge any image]
Below: an excerpt from Honeywell's replacement line voltage thermostat guide describing the T451- T651- and T694- series light duty line voltage thermostats and thermostat selection options.
Wiring diagrams and examples for these replacement thermostats are in the reference cited above and are described as well,
at LINE VOLTAGE THERMOSTAT WIRING
A few months ago we installed an ES230-R 240/208 Volt Digital Thermostat to control 2 King electric wall heaters. At bedtime we turn the thermostat down to 62 from 72.
Occasionally, when we go to turn the thermostat up for the day, it will be reading "88".
By pressing on the up button for a few seconds, I can turn it up to 72 and it will work fine. Can this happen if the house temperature went below 62 during the night?
This question and reply were posted originally
The King ES230 electric heat thermostat, in default mode, should be displaying the current room temperature.
[ Shown: the King ES-230 line voltage non-programmable wall thermostat used to control electric heat.
When you press an up or down key, a thermometer appears in the display, and you can then further press up or down keys to change the SET temperature for the room.
If your thermostat is reading 88 degF before you touch it, it thinks that's the room temperature.
A thermostat might read higher than the actual room temperature for a number of reasons such as where it is located, exposure to sunlight or to another heat source.
I would start by making an independent check of the room temperature, maybe mounting a simple thermometer right next to your wall thermostat.
If you find that the thermostat is calling for heat and is warming the room when you have it set below the current room temperature then I suspect either a wiring error or a defective thermostat.
Below is a wiring schematic for the King ES-230 line voltage thermostat along with links to more information about installing and wiring this electric heat thermostat.
These illustrations and examples of wiring the built-in thermostat found at either end of some electric baseboard heaters are adapted from
CADET BTF-SERIES ELECTRIC BASEBOARD THERMOSTAT MANUAL [PDF] (2017) cited along with company contact information at the end of this article.
Watch out: these instructions are only an example; your specific heater, electrical circuit, and control wiring details will vary by electric baseboard heat or convector heater fan unit manufacturer, brand, and model of both the heater and the thermostat.
Watch out: Be SURE to find and read the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
Watch out: And DO NOT try any electrical wiring or installation if you are not trained to do so safely, as making a mistake can result in fire, injury, or death. You can be shocked or killed.
In some building code jurisdictions these installations must be made by a licensed electrician.
Other models of Cadet electric heater thermostats and their instructions are provided by the company and instructions for other electric heat thermostat brands and heating convector thermostat controls are listed
at LINE VOLTAGE THERMOSTAT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS by BRAND & MODEL
Instead of running wires through a building wall or other cavities to control electric baseboard heaters many units incorporate the heating thermostat in one end of the heating baseboard itself.
In addition, as long as the total heating load does not overload the electrical circuit ampacity rating and does not overload the baseboard heater thermostat ampacity rating (typically about 20 Amps) it is often possible to use the baseboard heat thermostat to control multiple electric baseboards (typically all in the same building room or area).
The electric baseboard control thermostat is mounted at either end of the first electric baseboard unit in the series (if more than one is to be installed) and is put at the end of the heater to which the powering electrical circuit has been brought.
Notice that on this 2-wire (nominal 240VAC) circuit, often the wire colors are black and white but the white wire is marked with a bit of black tape to make clear that it is a HOT wire, not a neutral wire.
Both of the baseboard heat thermostat wiring illustrations above are called "single pole" installations because the thermostat actually switches on or off just a single wire - the hot or black wire.
Notice that this is a different thermostat, employing a double pole switch. The switch itself sports four wires: 2 red and 2 black that must be connected by following the company's detailed instructions - those provide additional information beyond these sketches.
Again notice that there are just two incoming hot wires in this 240VAC circuit, 1 black (hot or Line 1) and 1 white (also hot, or Line 2, marked as "hot" with a bit of black electrical tape).
The instructions for wiring both BTF-1 (single pole) and BTF-2 (double pole) electric baseboard thermostats provide details for additional wiring situations including:
Reader question: I want to add a 120V electrical outlet and noticed that we already have wiring for electric baseboard heat. Is there a way to use that circuit to add a wall plug?
Interestingly when first asked about this I said I didn't think so, out of concern that there may be no neutral wire or ground wire suitable for wiring an electrical receptacle or "wall plug" up to an electric baseboard heat circuit.
Watch out: and indeed, normally you would not be able to safely wire a 120V wall receptacle into the 240V circuit that controls electric baseboard heat since that circuit may be missing a suitable neutral and ground wire.
See ELECTRICAL OUTLET, HOW TO ADD & WIRE.
But in researching wall thermostats we came across the combination line voltage wall thermostat for electric heat and wall receptacle combination shown in our photo (left).
This device is sold by Dayton, Model 1UHG6 and is intended to control electric heat as well as to provide an electrical outlet plug. Sold by grainger.com who includes these specifications:
So let's get clear just what this is: this is not an electrical outlet that you add to one leg of the 120V or 240V circuit that controls built-in electric baseboard heat.
This is a device that is installed in the wall where a conventional electrical receptacle would have been installed.
Dayton's 1UHG6 is, however a neat device. It is a wall thermostat that is intended to control a portable electric heater that is plugged into the wall where this device is installed.
You might note that the wall thermostat may be a bit low on the wall and you won't want it too close to the heater itself or it'll be dominated by heat local to the heater.
Nevertheless it's a possible way to make your portable electric heater thermostatically controlled.
My electric wall heater turned itself on last night. The thermostat was off or not set to a temp. During spring and summer I have my couch in front of it bc I don't use it. During the winter I arrange my apt accordingly to have proper clearance. But tonight I heard it running and I thought that was weird.
I pulled my couch away and saw that the screen was literally red instead of white. I'm guessing it was too hot especially with my couch right up against it. So I turned it off from the breaker since at the point I couldn't turn the dial off anymore than it was.
To turn it on I have to turn it above 50 degrees. Under 50 means its off. And it has been off since the end of winter. My place stays warmer than by itself so it should never cut on. Not sure why this happened. Just looking for any help. Bc had I not checked on it it could have caught fire.
Watch out: this sounds like a dangerous condition. If your electric wall heater came on while the thermostat was in the OFF position then your unit probably has either a bad internal switch, thermostat, or short circuit in the thermostat or control wiring. As you suggest, the unit is unsafe and should not be used before it is repaired or replaced.
And indeed, a couch, curtains, or other combustibles should never be placed in front of an electric heater exactly because of the overheating and fire risk that you observed. Thank goodness you detected the condition and turned off power to the heater. Had no one been at home, or had people been asleep the result could have been a fatal fire.
Can you tell me the brand and model of the heater?
And if you can send photos of the heater and any labeling on the unit, please do so using the CONTACT link found at top, left, or bottom of our web pages.
Illustration: a wiring table for the Honeywell TB6575A line voltage thermostat - whose manual is given below as a PDF download.
Above and below: the Honeywell TB6575A line voltage thermostat used to control heating & cooling fan coil units.
Above: White Rodgers 1687-9 SPTD line voltage mechanical thermosatat used for heating and cooling applications.
We have moved this discussion to a separate article now found
at CONVERT LINE to LOW VOLTAGE THERMOSTAT
...
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