Stone foundation inspection, diagnosis, repair.
This article describes the construction & history of stone foundations and walls.
We explain how to recognize and diagnose the cause of stone foundations and walls that are bulged, cracked, leaning, or moving.
We also cover other types of stone foundation or stone wall damage such as due to impact, settlement, frost heave, water damage or improper modification.
Page top photo: this foundation built of a combination of quarry stone (flat on at least one side) and fieldstone (natural stone, as-found) was falling apart. We think that a combination of roof spillage and the water trap formed by the inside corner formed by the two abutting foundation walls were the main source of this stone foundation movement.
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These masonry foundation articles delineate the various types of foundation cracks, crack patterns, differences in the meaning of cracks in different foundation materials, as affected by site conditions and the history of events affecting the building.
Other evidence of building movement and damage are also described to assist in recognizing foundation defects and to help the inspector separate cosmetic or low-risk conditions from those likely to be important and potentially costly to repair.
The photograph above shows our client, from a safe position, looking at a bulged and leaning stone foundation on an 1885 building in Rhinebeck NY.
The use of cement between these quarry stones was not enough to prevent cracking, bulging, and frost damage to the wall.
We suspect that a combination of steep bank, nearby highway, lack of adequate footings, and failure to control roof spillage along the foundation wall are the forces behind the troublesome damage at this building.
Of these stone foundation damage cases, roof spillage by the foundation is most-often the prime source of damage.
Particularly in a freezing climate the force exerted by freezing wet soil against a foundation wall is tremendous.
Stone foundation walls on pre-1900 buildings are often quite thick, up to four feet at their base.
In their original design these walls tolerated water in the outside soils by permitting it to seep through the wall and often to drain away through a dirt floor or even a through-wall drain in a low corner.
But more modern modifications to such buildings included central heating, efforts to dry out wet basements, and other changes that in turn changed how these buildings worked. Some of these changes actually increased the risk of later foundation damage from water or frost.
The stone and brick foundation shown below is common in older buildings, in this case a church in Staatsburgh, New York.
In this photograph we see a combination of stone and brick foundation wall.
Brick was often laid in finish courses atop a stone foundation wall. In other buildings the entire building wall wall may be of stone except that bricks were been used around windows and doors to give a more square opening. That detail made wood framing in of windows and doors easier.
The basement and its adjoining crawl space of this Staatsburgh New York building had suffered a long history of flooding and an occasional sewage backup too.
Stone walls, like other masonry walls, are often damaged by water and frost, especially where roof spillage splashes close to the foundation wall.
Below we see a bulged stone foundation wall that abuts a more square wall (at left) in better condition and probably of a younger age and by a different mason.
Such dry-laid structural stone foundation walls rarely fail by leaning but are often found bulged or damaged by water, frost, vehicle traffic, or by modification by the building owner.
In this photo the mortar, probably a soft lime and sand mix, has washed out of stones at this inside corner of the building foundation where the corner is below a roof valley - a source of frequent spillage during rain and melting snow.
Below our photograph shows the futility of trying to keep out water by applying mortar to the inside of an old stone wall.
Near the entering water pipe at the right side of this photo we see ice forming in this wet basement, perhaps because lots of surface and subsurface runoff are being caught and directed towards the foundation wall by the trench dug to install the new water line.
So much of this wall is wet over so much of its height that we can be sure that roof spillage and surface water are entering the building.
Beware of old dry-laid stone foundation walls which were later made "water proof" by mortar or by casting an inside thin veneer of concrete against the stone.
Watch out: People often used lime or cement to point up the gaps between the stones in such a wall as an attempt to reduce water entry or to try to keep out vermin. I
But if this change is made without also taking steps outside to keep water away from the building, frost and water damage to the wall may actually be more likely to occur as water becomes trapped within the wall's structure.
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This sketch of the components of a preserved stone foundation with a solid masonry exterior wall is courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, a Toronto home inspection, education & report writing tool company [ carsondunlop.com ].
Photo above: loose, dislocated stones in a building foundation, courtesy of InspectApedia.com reader Jennifer.
Photo above: buckled stone foundation wall, photo courtesy of David Grudzinski, discussed in detail at FROST PUSH & HEAT FLOW at STONE & MASONRY FOUNDATIONS
The Carson Dunlop Associates sketch below shows typical construction of a stone foundation atop which is placed a wood frame structure. We continue with our list of inspection points for stone foundations.
Below the stains down this stone foundation suggest a history of leaks focused around the basement window.
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Information on the stone types that are available for use in stone foundation or walls can now be found
at STONE FOUNDATION - TYPES OF STONE USED
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Information and research on the effect of frost push on stone foundations and walls can now be found
at FROST PUSH on STONE FOUNDATIONS
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
On 2022-02-26 by Dawn D. - Evaluate the condition of this old stone foundation - 100 year old building in Illinois
I took this one the day of our closing. This message comes 10 months after. Since closing we added drainage hoses to direct water away from the foundation.
You are looking at the west foundation wall of a 100 year old Dutch Colonial home in north central Illinois.
The two concrete blob stones on the bottom right slightly away from the home is suspected old foundation footings. It is not pictured, but it looks like they have an indentation like a corner of a box rested there at one point.
Although we have not had the basement drilled for exploratory footing inspection, It is possible they were removed during a bathroom install in the basement that is no longer functional.
The sill plate showing is wood to support a gap from what we suspect was a previous repair to remedy a house leveling issue. It was not logged with the local building inspector's office. The home still feels unlevel when inside.
We had a building engineer assure us the building is sound and will not collapse, but the appearance of the sill and noticeable unlevelness inside the home is a little unsettling to us.
We asking around to see what our options are to fix this even though we may need to contract it out.
We have had Permaseal and US Waterproofers (sp) out, but they only do water proofing and mentioned they could drill the corner to do a footing inspection for a fee under 1K.
Reply by Inspectapedia Com Moderator
@Dawn D.,
If I understand your question you're concerned about whether there is adequate footing under part of your old house stone foundation.
Often Stone foundations were built with no concrete footing, simply stones laid into the undisturbed soil.
It's not necessarily a problem.
Rather than doing any expensive Drilling and digging to investigate, I would expect your on- site inspector to look first for signs of foundation settlement or movement.Followup by Dawn D.
@Inspectapedia Com Moderator, thanks for your response.
Our inspector mentioned there were no new boards added to the sill plate recently, but my gut is telling me it may have moved since the last house leveling.
There were several cracks in the closet above that corner on the second floor before we spackled them.
The good news is there are no new cracks forming inside the home since we have repaired them, so I think we are going to retuck the foundation ourselves with a lime mortar and see what happens for now.
I am keeping an eye on a seal coat line on the stone as well, but it seems to have risen from the time the driveway was seal coated years ago before us.
Maybe they were just stupid sloppy. Here's the tar line.
Reply by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - Virginia farmhouse needed leveling
@Dawn D.,
The most obvious concern in your original photograph is that a downspout is directing roof drainage onto the ground immediately next to the foundation.
That invites water and frost damage to the structure. We see that there has been asphalt paving and a downspout extension added in your later photo - if that's the same corner of the home.
There are, indeed, options for leveling an old house as well as for adding support beneath the structure, but you should weigh the cost of doing that against the severity of the present condition and the cost which is likely to be quite high.If your on-site expert is confident that there is no ongoing structural movement nor related safety concerns you would only want to consider additional house leveling if the out-of-level conditions are rather extreme.
Photo: Vinita Farm 1962 - Goochland County, Virginia
Watch out: Keep in mind as well that even following the most careful house jacking and leveling job there's likely to be some settling-in and further cracking and movement in the structure afterwards as well.
In the 1960s my family purchased an old farmhouse in Goochland County Virginia. There was a small pantry between the dining room and kitchen across which the floor sloped 18 in in a matter of a few feet of horizontal travel.
My parents had the entire house jacked and leveled. Then the plasterers came in and fixed all of the walls.
In the ensuing year there was additional settling-in of the house in its new position, causing all of the walls in the house to crack.
My mother was so frustrated that instead of repairing the plaster against she simply wallpapered the walls using a thick burlap fabric.
Below: same building in 2007 demonstrating that you can easily post multiple photos, one per comment. - Daniel Friedman
Followup by Dawn D.
@Inspectapedia Com Moderator, thank you for the added story about your family's home and reaffirming what our realtor and inspecting engineer told us.
Your story reminded me of how we felt when buying this house. It was blind love. We saw through the years of neglect. It was the first house my husband was worthy of his time.
Since these pictures, we have added downspout extensions to channel the water away from the foundation. It was the first purchase we made last year after we bought the house.
I think the house has or had footings. I noticed at least one in one corner from the basement. I will be taking and posting more pictures for curious minds; some measurements; and monitor the movement over the years. So far, the cracks we repaired are still sealed. Fingers crossed.On 2022-04-08 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator
@Dawn D.,
Indeed, patching the cracks in a masonry foundation using mortar or a masonry patch compound that is itself cementious is an easy way to see if there is ongoing movement.
Details are at CRACK MONITORING METHODS
A good place to start a review of foundation crack size, shape, location, materials, pattern, and thus what the crack can tell you about what's happening to the building is at
FOUNDATION FAILURES by MOVEMENT TYPE
Often an experienced eye can combine site features (drainage, runoff, water, in-slope grade, nearby traffic) with the types of foundation observations I described above, with other observations of signs of building movement (plaster cracking, jamming doors, etc) to get a quite-confident understanding of what's going on, without necessarily excavating the footing.
Excavating to inspect footings before we have other evidence that points to a concern in that direction is almost like drilling a tooth because your neck hurts. A bit of expert interrogation might be worthwhile if that hasn't already been done.
On 2021-10-12 by Lindsay Wiley - Is this foundation seriously damaged"
I want to buy this house but this looks like a foundation problem or does it just need mortar? Yikes help please.
On 2021-10-12 by inspectapedia.com.moderator
@Lindsay Wiley,
All we can see is a blurry photo of a stone foundation with some missing mortar;
At the very least one would
1. stabilize the stone foundation by replacing the lost mortar
2. diagnose the cause of mortar loss (such as a gutter spill-over or improper downspout nearby) and fix it
3. inspect the basement or crawl space and structure for signs of additional foundation movement, damage, or need for repair.
Nothing in your photo tells us that there is a major structural problem, but my goodness, no one should be buying a home without a competent home inspection by an inspector who has no conflicts of interest (no relationship with the seller or real estate agents involved in the transaction).
On 2020-06-22 by Jennifer - Evaluate the foundation of an 1835 church in New York - Very glad to have found this page!
I am trying to purchase a church from 1835 in the NY Capital Region. Very glad to have found this page!
The original foundation was stacked stone which looks in terrible shape above grade. Inside, a concrete floor was poured and a second foundation was built from cement block (1960s?) which supports the beams and joists so that they effectively are cantilevered out over this new foundation wall.
Do you think I will need to have the exterior stone walls excavated to the base and repaired? Any help would be appreciated!
Reply by danjoefriedman (mod) - 1835 church with stacked stone foundation
Jennifer
I am too nervous to bet your money on so little information - you want a thorough inspection, starting with a sharp home inspector (ASHI has a chapter in your area) I suspect that the design you described is supporting the structure and the stones we see are thus cosmetic infill.
But there are still some questions like: does this design invite termite or carpenter and damage? Is there wood framing behind the stone or just concrete and block?
On 2020-06-10 by Dolores - Loose missing foundation materials - stone
In addition to removing unwanted vegetation and cement applied by previous residents, we uncovered the foundation below grade to a depth of 1 foot. It appears that this stone was dry laid however there are huge gaps. The stones are very irregular, uncut, some round like river rocks.
This part of the house was built in the mid 1700s and there is no basement underneath. What would be the proper thing to do before the dirt is replaced? Thank you.
Reply by danjoefriedman (mod) - loose and missing stone in foundation below grade
@ Dolores
I would examine the foundation with care inside and out for loose, unstable stones, and add stone in those areas. Often we an simply drive in a suitably sized and shaped stone using a mallet.
In a freezing climate we want the foundation to extend below the frost line.
Above ground we want roof spillage and surface runoff directed away from the building.
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