This article discusses frost push or frost damage to foundation walls.
We explain how to recognize, assess, and diagnose the effects of frost push on stone foundations and walls that are bulged, cracked, leaning, or moving.
We also cover research on frost heave & frost push damage to building foundations.
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- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?
Of stone foundation damage cases, roof spillage by the foundation is most often the prime source of damage. Stone walls, like other masonry walls, are often damaged by water and frost, especially where roof spillage splashes close to the foundation wall.
Particularly in a freezing climate, the force exerted by freezing wet soil against a foundation wall is tremendous.
Stone foundation walls on pre-1900 buildings are often quite thick, up to four feet at their base.
In their original design, these walls tolerated water in the outside soils by permitting it to seep through the wall and often to drain away through a dirt floor or even a through-wall drain in a low corner.
But more modern modifiations to such buildings included central heating, efforts to dry out wet basements, and other changes that in turn changed how these buildings worked. Some of these changes actually increased the risk of later foundation damage from water or frost.
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Here we explain the causes of frost push or frost damage to foundation walls.
Above in an illustration by Friedman we show how a combination of wet soil and freezing conditions conspire to create frost push against a foundation wall. The maximum point of inwards wall bulge occcurs where the frost pressure is greatest.
That's going to be above the frost line and at a depth that depends on the extent to which water, usually from roof spillage or from in-slope grade cause water to collect outside the foundation wall.
Our illustration below, adapted by Friedman from an original by Farouki (1992) illustrates the heat flow down into the surrounding soil from an insulated building in a freezing climate. This illustration explains how to AVOID frost damage to foundations.
Farouki notes
... insulation is used in association with foundations of structures as part of a process of thermal engineering to produce safe and economic designs for various structures.
The use of insulation enables heat management that allows shallower foundation depths and prevents damage from frost action.
Results are given from the Norwegian Frost I Jord research project and the work at Lund University, Sweden, both of which provided the basis for the design guidelines of Norway, Sweden and Finland. -References or Citations
If we reverse the size and direction of that big orange arrow we might portray frost push effects on the foundation wall - look again at our first drawing.
Below: as an example of foundation frost push damage, these foundation damage photos, contributed by ASHI home inspector David Grudzinski illustrate the importance of looking carefully at the building exterior for early clues that you may track down to more-significant damage.
This masonry block (above-grade) foundation was not straight-vertical but instead was out of plumb, as Grudzinski noted.
A very rough measurement showed that the block surface was six degrees out of plumb.
Even a casual and thus incomplete examination of David's photos provides an experienced inspector with more foundation damage and damage history clues.
Above in our first photo notice that sloppy spilled concrete at the juncture of concrete sidewalk and foundation wall? That may be an attempt to seal water leaking between the sidewalk and foundation, but
notice too that the sidewalk, though it slopes nicely away from the home, dumps water into a water trap (as from there soil slopes uphill) that will pretty much trap water along the building, inviting water seepage down into soils close to the foundation - adding to the risk of frost damage.
Notice below that rather new asphalt paving has been put around these foundation areas,sloped away from the home. Someone may have been attempting to stabilize the foundation and stop water and frost damage by adding this paving and drainage.
But notice too the frost damaged concrete blocks at the corner: probably frost heave.
And notice as well the crushed downspout end still spilling (if it could spill) close to the foundation? So we have a clue that the building owners/occupants are not aware of or don't notice critical roof drainage system maintenance tasks.
For the scientists among us,
for formulas to convert angle or slope over a distance to inches out of plumb over a height. A foundation wall that is bulged an inch or more out of plumb at its most bulged point over its height is considered significantly damaged and needing further evaluation and possible repair. (Friedman & Seaquist).
Details are at FOUNDATION DAMAGE SEVERITY
and at FOUNDATION or WALL BULGE or LEAN MEASUREMENTS
Inspecting the building interior Grudzinski found still more-significant damage to the stone foundation laid below-grade.
[Click to enlarge any image]
Here are Mr. Grudzinski's notes to us:
Attached in several emails will be photos of a stone foundation severely buckled in from expansion in soil caused by frost heaves. The home is an 1980 Colonial 2-family home in Pawtucket RI. The prospective buyer is a past client, and saw the home under limited lighting in the early evening hours.
The home was being "flipped" by a contractor. The first signs of concern were walking around the exterior.
The foundation is stacked Rubble stone to grade, with cement block above grade. There was an obvious deformity in the Block foundation condition. It was not plumb, and when sighting the foundation on the longer planes, the center was buckled in at least 6 inches when compared to the corners.
The gutter downspouts deposited the water right at the base of the home, rather than away from the home.
The rear wall was notably more deformed than the side walls. I used an angle gauge with a level to come up with a rough idea of the angle of the foundation from grade level to the Mud Sill. The block portion of the foundation was 8 Degrees out of plumb. This translated to 3 inches over 2 ft.
Upon entering the basement, the stacked stone showed an inward displacement of around 12 inches at the farthest point. The stone wall had large openings where smaller stones were missing and the mating surfaces of the stones had separated. The line where the Blocks were stacked on the stone showed openings.
Because of the movement, the rear wall of the 1st floor was angled outwards about 6 inches, and the siding was separated from its original location.
This foundation will need significant structural repairs to the foundation.
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
@Inspectapedia Com Moderator, I read most of the measurement methods, and I am confused on which type to use. I am think it's the plum line method?.
I think a previous owner may have already installed one (pic attached) and hooked it in the rafters of the basement ceiling. It is farther from the wall than recommended here though. I see a bit of efflorescence and a few rocks had lost their face, but I do not see any bowing in my foundation walls or cracking from the inside.
If I were to take an educated guess at the movement of the foundation over time, it had sunk on the southwestern corner where those blobs of concrete are. That is how the floor seems to slope slightly, and the front porch (east side) seems to slope down slightly away from the house slightly.
Maybe indicating some upward movement of the east and north side?
The house doesn't look cockeyed when looking at it from the front (east side) though, so it's a puzzle. I think the tar line on the stone foundation from the asphalt drive way is indicating the driveway has settled.
I use to think the stone foundation was rising there. I can't tell anything from the basement floor because it was purposely sloped down from the east wall to the west wall.
Adding a pic of what I think is one of the footings. It is the only one visible from the inside of the basement. And a pic of the possible footing in southeast corner.
On 2022-04-09 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - 100 year old stone foundation concerns of settling, frost heaves, mortar cracks, and amateur workmanship
@Dawn D.,
Looks like old diagonal cracks, with mortar or other sealant & paint atop that area, and we see modest signs of recurrent water entry
Any experienced home inspector who is familiar with old houses ought to be able to tell you considerably more about the construction and condition of the home including its foundation and framing.The very point that you were discussing digging to verify the presence of a footing on this house suggests you've not had an old-house or stone foundation expert on site.
A very old stone foundation won't be built on "footings" so it's pointless to have someone dig to prove their presence.
Rather the builders would have placed the initial courses of (often large flat) stones on (hopefully) virgin un-disturbed soil to which they excavated to start the foundation.
If a footing is "rising" it would be due to frost heave, or in some locales, expansive clay soil (unlikely to find clay soil and stone foundations in the same area).
Your last photo shows
1. Someone pounded a short 6x6 atop a longer 6x6 probably just sitting on the concrete floor (no footing, possibly not the most-reliable fix) in trying "jack" and "level" the home.
Note that we can see NO structural connection between the stacked 6x6s - so we know this is unreliable as a permanent repair, and it's a sign of amateur workmanship.
Amateur workmanship might mean that diagnosis as well as repair were incomplete.
2. points to the hammer marks trying to pound the short 6x6 into place, suggesting that no one was actually "jacking" the house to level it as a professional would have done
3. points to a shim used to try to secure and provide lift for the pounded-in 6x6. There is zero chance that one could possibly hammer (note the small hammer marks) a 6x6 post into place with sufficient lifting force to actually jack and level an old house that was askew or whose foundation or framing were damaged.All that might accomplish is to shove into place a snug post that reduces future settlement.
4. points to insulation hiding the foundation at the end of the center beam carrying those floor joists - further inspection is appropriate
5. points to mortar or some similar material troweled onto the inside of the stone foundation - often a clue that someone was trying to reduce water entry through the stone wall - in turn a clue of a history of water entry and, if you're in a freezing climate, frost push on the foundation.
Frost can push a foundation in (you don't see bulging or leaning, that's good)
FROST HEAVES, FOUNDATION, SLAB
Frost has enormous lifting force and can heave a foundation or lift parts of it by ice lensing.
FOUNDATION DAMAGE by ICE LENSING
6. looks like a short section of 2x6 whose function is unclear: check for damaged ends of the joists atop the main girder
On an old house like this some settlement besides foundation movement can be due to rotted, or insect-damaged sills and rim joists or floor framing.
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