Heating System Boiler Control & Switch FAQs
Heating system control FAQs:
Questions and answers about any and all controls used on heating boilers used for providing heat or hot water in buildings.
This article series describes the operating and safety controls on a Heating System Boiler - central heating systems. The photo at page top shows a modern cad cell relay on an oil fired heating boiler - one of the safety controls which we discuss in this article.
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Tyese questions & answers about heating boiler controls were posted originally
at BOILER CONTROLS & SWITCHES - home - where you will find a complete dictionary and list of those devices.
These FAQs and this article series describes the controls used on hot water type heating systems, also known as hydronic heating systems.
Any one have this problem or have any suggestions? what is necessary to change to an 8184 cad relay since the voltage is 24 instead of 120 on the 4184.
Sometimes when thermostat calls for heat I will hear a click in the cad cell relay and a few seconds later the reset button will pop up.
No other sounds the burner does not even attempt to start, the blower doesn't come on.
If I press the reset after 30 seconds or so the burner will fire normally and may work fine for hours or even a day or 2.
After this problem started a week ago I cleaned boiler and replaced oil filter and nozzle but this had no effect. the control is a 4184D which Honywell doesn't make any more. On 2017-01-21 by Ted
Reply by (mod) - How to Troubleshoot a Honeywell R4184 Cad Cell Relay that Keeps Tripping
Ted
When a thermostatically-operated heating system relay clicks to start the oil burner but the burner doesn't start that could be ok (not the case you describe) or bad.
First the OK case: the relay clicks to call for heat a circulator pump turns on - the boiler's burner won't turn on unless or until the water temperature in the boiler is at or below that set on the boiler's aquastat. Eventually cooler water returning from the building cools the boiler and the burner starts.
Second the bad case: the relay clicks and the burner should be starting but it doesn't and after some seconds the safety lockout trips turning off the burner rather than pouring unburned oil into a combustion chamber of an oil fired burner.Pressing the reset limps past whatever operating problem (probably a dirty nozzle or bad flame, maybe a bad cad cell sensor or even a loose wire) may be and the burner runs normally for a time - that's good.
Watch out: don't keep relying onpressing that reset button on the primary control.
See RESET SWITCH, CAD CELL RELAY - repeated pressing of the rest button risks
a PUFFBACKS, OIL BURNER of unburned oil - use the link or search Inspectapedia for the capitalized phrase to read details.
If cleaning or replacing the cad cell, checking fixing wiring connections, or cleaning/repairing the oil burner assembly (nozzle, oil filter, etc) doesn't fix the problem AND IF the service tech decides it's the control itself that's defective, then one ither buys another Honeywell R4184D (some are still sold) or a replacement unit like the Honeywell R8184M1051 Protectorelay Oil-Burner Control.
The cleaning and replacement steps you took sound right but unless you're trained and have the right test equipment I wouldn't be certain that there's not a burner operating problem still going on.
Just so you don't think I'm being too tough on you (watch out a mistake can cause fire, explosion, death) - I confess that early in my oil burner career I over-tightened the nozzle adapter on the burner gun oil line, stripping its threads.I couldn't figure out why the flame was so messy and smoky until I found that leak as it was hard to see when the burner was running.
I had to replace the nozzle line and adapter along with installing a new nozzle.
Please see CAD CELL RELAY SWITCH for details about the Honeywell R4194 Primary Control cad cell relay.
What would cause hot water to come and go, have had service 4 times now and no one can find problem.
On 2016-04-01 by AnonymousReply by mod
Is this a tankless coil on a heating boiler?
Someone needs to check out the aquastat, including its temperature sensor and the quality of contact of the sensor to the sides of the sensor well.
On a boiler that produces hot water for heat and domestic hot water can I isolate the boiler to Just Produce hot water and not circulate hot water or heat? tom
by (mod)
Yes, Tom, simply by
1. not calling for heat at a thermostat
or
2. turning off or disonnecting the circulator pumps
combined with checking that the FLOW CONTROL VALVES over the boiler are working to prevent hot water circulating through the heating zones by natural convection
Thermostat only works about one month then have to replace
On 2016-03-17 1 by DanSolution by (mod)
I'd look for a problem outside the thermostat itself such as its wiring or the low voltage transformer.
My furnace will light every time the thermostat calls for heat even though the boiler temp is at 160/180. Why? what would cause this and how do I fix it? I'm going through tons of oil
On 2016-02-27 by keithby (mod)
I would consider checking or replacing the boiler gauge or making an independent test to confirm what you think is wrong with the temp.
It may also be that in your home a shot of cold water from radiators or baseboards is dropping the boiler temp quickly so that a normal boiler-on is occurring.
OR the boiler controls may be improperly wired. In some countries such as the U.S. installers wire the boiler so that on a call for heat the circulator runs first and the boiler only runs when temp drops. In Canada, for example, installers wire the boiler with circulator always-on.On a call for heat the boiler will run because by definition, as boiler water was already running through the piping system, the boiler temp is too low and more heat is needed.
To be clear: a furnace provides warm air heat. Your 160/180 setting is on an aquastat so we know your heat is by hot water - your heater is a "boiler".
See AQUASTAT HI LO DIFF SETTINGS
And have your boiler cleaned and serviced to reduce its operating cost.
"If electrical power switch to a hot water heating boiler is in the on position and the room thermostat is set above room temperature, the heating system (hot water or steam) boiler or (warm air) furnace should not run."
is that right? shouldn't the boiler run in this case? On 2015-10-28 by jer
by xyz - the boiler will run when room temp is below thermostat set temp
Jer: The article is correct. It is saying that
(1) the system is turned on and
(2) the room is warmer than the setting on the thermostat.
In the event that the room temperature is above that of the thermostat, the thermostat will command the zone valve control to remain shut so no more heat is added to the room.
Only when the room temperature drops below that of the setpoint will the system run.
Moderator Clarifies: when will the circulator pump(s) run vs when will the burner on the boiler turn on?
When the room temperature falls below the set temperature on the thermostat, the yes the heating system will turn ON but all that may actually "RUN" will be the circulator pump.
Actually, the boiler's burner will turn on only when the water temperature in the boiler drops to or below the CUT IN or LO temperature - that is somewhere below the HI set on the boiler aquastat, depending on the aquastat model.
I am in HVAC school trying to find info on the fan limit switch and limit switches - Paul Gibson, 5/24/11
Reply:
Paul you are looking at boiler controls on this page.
Fan limit switches are used on warm air heating furnaces. Take a look at the large amount we have published aboutthe FAN LIMIT SWITCH and how it works, is wired, diagnosed & repaired.
Also see other furnace control links listed at the ARTICLE INDEX the bottom of this article
under FURNACE CONTROLS & SWITCHES. If any of that material is unclear or incomplete let me know by email.
Hi we have a 1950 to 60 old boiler in our home which we want to remove. All gas has been turn off at the meter. This furnace has not been operational for at least 10 years now, and everything is more than old to say the least.
In order to empty the baseboard style radiators in each room where do this.
The release valve is totally broken on the actual boiler itself. Is there a page on your website which deals with questions like this? We plan to have a new gas forced air system installed in our home once this has been removed. Anon; 6/26/2011
Reply:
Anon, just to clear up what we're discussing,
a "boiler" uses hot water or steam to heat a home through radiators or convectors or baseboards or radiant floor tubing
a "furnace" uses warm air to heat a home by circulating air (not water) through supply and return air ducts
You are describing a heating boiler - as you mention a broken (what sounds like) pressure-temperature safety relief valve. And you say you are converting to forced warm air - a furnace system.
To drain an old boiler including all of the radiators or in your case what sounds like convector units, you can usually drain everything from the boiler drain; that's because typically the individual convector or radiator valves have been left in the "on" position. Indeed draining will be a LOT faster if you can let air INTO the system.
I'd look for an air bleed valve at the highest convector unit and see if, after you've bled off the initial water pressure in the system you can also open that valve to begin letting air into the system.
Since you are replacing everything, there's nothing lost to cut pipes where necessary to get things to drain, just do your cutting where you won't leak water into the finished structure.
Isn't it illegal to bypass a flow sensing device and leave the boiler in operation? - Chris, 8/14/11
Reply: no
Chris I'm not sure what flow sensing device you refer to, but
Watch out: in general it is absolutely unsafe and improper to bypass or subvert a safety control on heating equipment. If at an inspection I found that boiler safety controls had been removed, bypassed, subverted, I would turn off the system, red tag it, and notify the owners/occupants in writing of an unsafe condition.
Will it damage an operating hot boiler if I increase the pressure on the water feeder valve by turning the top screw clockwise?. - Joey Butter, 12/31/2012
Reply:
Joey indeed after loosening the lock-nut on many automatic water feeder-water pressure regulators for heating boilers, loosening or tightening the screw adjusts a spring that sets the water feed pressure down or up.
Changing the water pressure to a higher initial setting won't damage a boiler, and that's what we do for some buildings that are more than two stories in height.
Watch out: if you set the pressure too high you can cause dumping of the pressure relief valve; that in turn can spill water in the house, and ultimately clog the valve - an unsafe condition risking a boiler explosion.
So basically you want to set the COLD water pressure in the boiler to the right number. Standard starting point for the water feed for a hydronic (hot water) heating boiler is 12 psi when the system is cold. The pressure must be set a bit higher for taller buildings since circulator pumps themselves don't have lift capacity - they rely on the heating system water pressure to get heating water to higher levels in the building. .
Under BOILERS, HEATING see WATER FEEDER VALVES, HYDRONIC BOILER for advice on choosing the proper pressure setting for your heating system.
I woke up last night hearing this clinging sound from the pipes. I checked out the heater and the pressure valve used to be at 10 is now at 0. I have oil radiant floor heating in a 1500 sq. ft. 1 story house.
Did a pipe break in my floor and that's why I lost pressure? - Jeremy 1/20/2012
Reply:
Jeremy, a sudden loss of water pressure sure sounds like a leak to me, but check everywhere. If you're lucky the leak is not in the floor but at an accessible, repairable place - start by checking the pressure/temperature relief valve.
Does the Aquastat work with Solenoid valve ? - Amit Prajapati 6/21/12
Reply:
Amit,
The high limit safety switch in aquastats on residential heating equipment don't rely on a solenoid valve, they interrupt power to the oil or gas burner to shut it off.Because some controls are used in common on hot water heat, hot air heat, and steam boilers, readers should see these other articles:
see BOILER CONTROLS & SWITCHES,
and also see BOILER COMPONENTS & PARTS for a detailed list of heating boiler controls, other heating system components, parts such as circulator pumps & draft regulators.
If your building uses warm air heat, also called "forced warm air",
see FURNACE CONTROLS & SWITCHES.
If your building uses steam heat
Not much hot water plus pressure valve frequently hit red mark and discharged .
So I called the tech who changed the Aquistat and set at H 160 L 140 Plus Sparco-mix changed ( is set high )
I'm still not getting hot water for BR (at first hot then cools off quickly )
Can a damaged /clogged coil in a tankless boiler cause water pressure increase and release valve to discharge hot water . On 2012-11-27 by Anonymous
by (mod) - yes and the boiler may become unsafe
Anon,
Definitely yes.A tankless coil that has corroded through and is leaking into the boiler itself will send water at house pressure into the boiler, thus causing overpressure and relief valve spillage.
Watch out: repeated discharge of the pressure relief valve can lead to mineral clogging of the valve that in turn can cause a dangerous BLEVE EXPLOSION
...
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Or see BOILER CONTROL & SWITCH FAQs-2 - more-recent questions and answers about heating boiler controls and switches
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