How to Find, Diagnose, Adjust or Repair the Water Pump Pressure Control Switch
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Well pump pressure control switch adjustment: This article describes How to Find & Adjust or Repair or Replace the Water Pump Pressure Control, what it looks like, where it is usually connected. If you need to adjust water pressure at a building served by a private pump and well system, or if your well pump is acting badly, this pressure control switch may need adjustment or repair/replacement.
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WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH INSTRUCTIONS
In the sketch above the pump pressure control switch is item #4 - we show this switch in more details in photographs provided below. Readers of this document should also see Water pump and pressure tank repair diagnosis & cost an specific case which offers an example of diagnosis of loss of water pressure, loss of water, and analyzes the actual repair cost.
If your building water supply is from a municipal water main rather than a private well, see WATER PRESSURE REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT.
This is a typical Water Pump Pressure Control Switch,
normally found mounted on piping at the water pressure tank
such as in this Square D Pumptrol® Switch example where you see a small gray-covered box with electrical wires coming in (power) and out (to pump) of it. The pump pressure control switch, by being connected
to the actual water piping in the building, senses the water pressure and when necessary, turns the water pump on.
The water pump pressure control switch either turns on the water pump directly, or (particularly when
a submersible water pump is in use), this switch may operate a physically separate (usually wall-mounted) heavier-duty
pump relay which turns on the water pump itself.
Well Pumps Controlled Directly by the Pressure Control Switch - when is a separate relay switch needed?
The well pump pressure control switch type shown here can be used to control well pumps wired either for 120V or 240V power supply, up to 15-amps. This switch serves both above ground jet pumps and smaller horsepower submersible well pumps.
For larger horsepower submersible well pumps that draw greater than 15A current, as we mentioned above, a separate heavy duty (higher ampacity capacity) pump relay switch is used to turn on and off the pump motor. The pump pressure control switch senses changes in water pressure in the system and according to its cut-in/cut-out setting, that device in turn operates the WATER PUMP RELAY SWITCH which in turn operates the well pump. |
A Guide to Building Water Pressure by Adjusting or Repairing the Water Pump Pressure Control Switch
- How to Adjust Water Pump Pressure: The detailed, step by step procedure for inspecting and adjusting the water pressure control switch is
discussed in detail at ADJUST PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL.
Our photo (left) shows a commercial type Square D 9013 Pumptrol® pressure control switch. Courtesy of reader J.H.
- Diagnosing Water Pump Short Cycling on and off: If your water pump is clicking on and off too often or quite rapidly see SHORT CYCLING.
- Diagnosing Water Pressure Drops without explanation when the pump stops, see Water Pressure Falls Slowly, Erratic Pumping: bad pressure control switch, building water running or leak, bad pressure gauge, bad check valve, bad foot valve.
- Diagnosing & Repairing Lost Air in the Water Tank: The problem of lost air in the water pressure tank along with how to correct that condition are discussed
beginning at SIGNS OF AIR LOSS.
- Diagnosing & Repairing a Water Pressure Control or Water Pump Control Switch: We discuss diagnosing and repairing a water pressure control switch that sticks "on" or "off" or simply won't operate, at water pump Pressure Switch Repairs.
If the water pump "short cycle" is very short, clicking on and off, there could be a shortage of air in the water tank,
or there could be a problem with the pump control pressure switch itself, or even a dirty and
clogged water filter if one is installed on the system. Dirty water filters
and other causes of rapid water pump on-off cycling
are discussed at CAUSES OF SHORT CYCLING.
These water pump short cycling problems happen with both in-building jet pumps and with in-well submersible pumps. It's trickier to notice
a short cycling submersible pump since you won't hear the pump motor, but you will hear the pump relay clicking on and off, or
you can see the water pressure gauge cycling up and down rapidly.
This photo shows a green-painted pressure control switch,
mounted on the left side of the one line jet pump. You can see a copper tube that runs from the bottom of the pump pressure
control switch bottom over to a fitting at the top center of the face of the jet pump.
This tube is sensing system water
pressure inside of the pump housing. The bottom of the pump (or water) pressure switch contains a rubber diaphragm that is
pushed on by water pressure conducted to it through this tube. The diaphragm in turn operates the pump relay that turns
the water pump on and off.
If the water supply is high in sediment often sediment will clog the pressure sensing opening at the bottom of the
pressure control. We've tried cleaning out this orifice but it's never proven to be a lasting repair. If your pump pressure
switch stops responding to changes in water pressure it probably needs to be replaced. |
A defective water pressure control switch. Switch contacts can burn-up, or the opening into the switch
which senses the water pressure in the system can become clogged with sediment or debris. This usually
shows up as failure of the pump switch to turn on or off at all, rather than short cycling. But the switch could be damaged or improperly adjusted, causing "short water pump cycling."
Details about this switch are at WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH
Water Pump Pressure Control Switch Tubing Problems
Technical note: Clogging of the Water Pump Pressure Control Switch if your water has a high level of silt, debris, or minerals, it's possible
that the tubing or piping connecting the pump pressure switch to the pump or water piping (red arrow in photo at left), or the pump switch bottom orifice through which the pressure switch senses the water pressure in the system has become clogged.
The small diameter of this tubing and still smaller diameter of the pump switch orifice makes clogging easy if your well water is high in sediment or minerals.
A clogged water pump pressure control switch (green arrow in photo at left) will often fail to turn on the well pump at all, even though the pressure in the system has dropped
below the water pump "cut in" pressure. Reader Jeff Crosby reported an example of this pressure switch clog problem:
[When our well pump kept short cycling and I was unable to get the well pump pressure control switch to work properly, ...] I ended up calling the pump service company to come over. There was an extreme amount of mineral buildup inside the pump where the copper tubing initially comes out to travel to the pressure switch. I thought about checking that out but did not know how funny. There has always been an awl sitting on the pump base for the longest time.
One of their maintenance guys left it there long ago. Now I know why - ever since that date when they come do their yearly check up they knock out this sediment [using the awl to open the tubing so that the pressure switch can accurately sense the water pressure in the system]. -- Jeff Crosby
On rare occasions we can tap on the well pump control switch and it will begin
working again, but not for long, and not reliably. Another water pressure control switch failure is the
rupture of a rubber disk or "bladder" inside the switch itself. If you detect or suspect a defective pressure
control switch, try replacing it with a new one.
We see a similar problem affecting water pressure gauges on private water systems: debris or mineral deposits can clog the pressure sensing orifice on the water pressure gauge, causing it to fail to respond at all, or to respond inaccurately to changes in water pressure.
When we find a clogged water pump pressure switch or the tubing connected to it, or a clogged water pressure gauge, we replace those items. A well pump pressure gauge that does not respond to pressure changes is potentially unsafe as it could lead to excessive pressurization of the water tank and building piping.
Watch out: some pump pressure control switches may mount directly to a water pressure tank without an obvious 1/8" or 1/4" ID mounting tube. In our pressure switch photo at left the red arrow points to the mounting base for the pressure control switch and you'll see that this control was screwed right into the water tank at a threaded tapping.
But the pressure sensing membrane found on the bottom (or in this case on the left side in our photo) of the pressure control switch can still become damaged or the orifice that admits water (and pressure) is easily clogged. The effect of debris clogging at a water pump pressure control switch is the same regardless of whether or not a longer mounting tube is used to mount the switch to the water system.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about about well pump pressure control switch inspection, installation, diagnosis, & repair
Question: What should I do about sudden very high water pressure in my pump and well system?
I noticed that my water pressure suddenly seemed awful high and when I checked the gauge it was. I have a 6" drilled well and the shutoff pressure was reading 80# of pressure. I tried adjusting the range nut with little success. The gap between 'on' and 'off' was way to much. (The switch, a Square-D, indicated a gap of 20-40 ) I think that I have a bad pressure switch. Any thoughts? - J.T.
Reply: Replace the pressure control switch, check and clear debris blockage in the switch mounting piping
A competent onsite inspection by an expert usually finds additional clues that help accurately diagnose a problem.
That said, here are some things to consider based on what you've described so far:
Because you confirmed that the water pressure really is excessive by direct observation, I don't think this is a common gauge error problem and I agree that the problem is most likely with the pressure control switch. In our photo (above-left) the green arrow points to a SquareD pump pressure control switch at its typical installation location.
A well water pump pressure switch might stick in the "on" position due to debris clogging at the pressure sensing orifice, or at the switch mounting tube, or on occasion relay switch points can burn and actually weld together.
Turn Off Unsafe Water Pumps
Watch out: high pressures from a pump that is either pumping to too high a pressure control setting or that does not shut off due to a switch or wiring problem can burst water pipes or a water tank, possibly even leading to injuries, especially if your water pressure tank lacks a pressure relief valve. I would turn OFF a system pumping to or over 80 psi until the problem is diagnosed and corrected. In our photo (above left) there is indeed a pressure relief valve installed on this pump and tank system. You can see the relief valve attached just below the pressure switch mounting tube (red arrow).
How to Install a New Water Pump Pressure Control Switch
If no one had previously been attempting to adjust the pressure control switch, I'd install a new one. When you install the new switch, either replace or clean out the small-diameter (typically 1/8" or 1/4" ID NPT) pipe nipple that is used to mount the pressure switch to the piping or fitting where it is attached. In our pressure control switch photo (above left) the red arrow points to the mounting tube that we are discussing.
Watch out: As a temporary, emergency "Sunday night" repair, I have filed clean and smooth pitted, burned contact points on a relay switch (with power OFF of course), but because relay switch points are made with a protective plating on the contact point surfaces, when you file or clean burned contact points the switch may still have a short remaining life, and you risk also changing the behavior of the contact relay or even of making the switch unsafe. So it's best to replace the switch promptly.
To replace a water pump pressure control switch the installer will need to turn off electrical power to the system, remove the old switch by disconnecting its wiring and then unscrewing the switch from its mounting tube, and install the new switch in the same position. It's a good idea to label your switch wires or take some photos as well so that you wire the new switch exactly as the old one was hooked-up.
Watch out: if you do not run enough water to remove water pressure from the pressure tank, when you remove the old pressure switch you'll see water squirting out of the mounting tube. That's not necessarily so terrible if that "squirt" also cleans debris from the tube. If you drain off water pressure first, the leakage at that point will be trivial. If not, be prepared to get wet as you are screwing the new switch in place, and be prepared to dry everything out before restoring electrical power.
Don't forget to use teflon paste or tape on the threads of the mounting tube so that your new switch won't leak at the mount, but don't blob in so much pipe dope or paste that you risk clogging the switch pressure sensing orifice on the switch bottom.
You should be able to use the new pressure control switch with the factory settings for cut-in and cut-out pressure, especially if you bought one already set to one of the two standards: 20/40 psi or 30/50 psi for Cut-in and Cut-out pressures. Or see WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT if you need to adjust the pressure switch settings.
Check for Sediment Blockage at the Pump Controls
As we discuss at Water Pump Pressure Control Switch Tubing Problems, often if there is sediment or rust or debris in the water system, that small diameter pipe or even the bottom sensor openings on the pressure control switch can become clogged. The result is that the switch stops properly sensing water pressure.
At that point pressure switch behavior can go either way: the switch may fail to sense a water pressure drop and thus doesn't turn on when needed, or it may fail to sense a water pressure increase and thus does not turn off when needed. Too little water pressure is inconvenient. Too much water pressure can be dangerous.
If/when you are replacing a pump pressure control switch, check the tubing or switch mount as well as the bottom of the old pressure switch for evidence of sediment or mineral deposits or other crud that block the pressure sensing mechanism. Clean or replace blocked switch mounting tubing.
Install a Sediment Filter?
Finally, if indeed your water source is giving up debris, silt, or other sediment particles that can clog the water supply system and its controls, you should consider installing a water filter system as well. Most water filters I've seen are installed after, rather than ahead of the water pressure tank and controls. But if needed, with a few extra control valves to make filter changeout easy, it should be possible to install filtration ahead of the tank and controls, thus protecting them from sediment as well.
Identify Old Pressure Control Switches?
Question: Can you identify the manufacturer of this water pump pressure control switch on a mobile home?
 Your site has been so (extremely) helpful. Thank you for the information.
I am wondering if you, being familiar with water pump systems, know the manufacturer of this Pressure Control Switch? Only a few letters are readable (at the bottom), but I am hoping it is enough.
- J.X.
Reply: Looks like a Square-D pressure control switch
Perhaps we can identify this pump pressure control switch from several things that are legible on the switch tag:
From the yellow wire in the photo bottom, most likely this is a 120V switch; so even though we know it's serving a mobile home it's not a 12V device. (Some mobile homes and motor homes use 12V pumps for managing their water supply.)
Second, the layout of the data tag and the remaining letters at the bottom of that tag look a lot like "SQUARE D COMPANY. You can just make out the letters ".... QUAR ..." that's a compelling argument for Square D.
[Click any of our images to see an enlarged, detailed version. ] |
Finally, if you look at the switch cover you might see a "D" with a rectangle embossed around it, or best yet, you might see the company name and details on a label stuck to the interior of the switch cover.
In any event from the data tag on the switch, a standard 120V/240V pressure control switch made by Square D or similar manufacturers should be just fine if you need a replacement.
You might turn off electrical power, remove the control switch, and take it to your local plumbing supplier for a match. To remove the switch you may need to plug the piping where the switch senses water pressure or drain water pressure from the system.
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Question: Why won't the pressure control switch cut-on at low pressure?
Water tank is set at 50/70 why wont it cut on at low pressure - it only clicks like missing its starting point .
We had points replaced last year but it still wont start (kick on) we had left home for a week and only cut water supply off to house and cut off hot water heater - now it wont work right - Barry.
Reply: Check for a clogged or blocked sensor on the pressure control switch - replace the switch assembly
Barry,
If your pressure switch is not turning the water pump on it could be a clog in the pressure sensor switch or its mount, or you need a new switch. Often debris in the water supply clogs the small orifice on the bottom of the pressure control switch. That orifice is intended to allow water (or air) pressure in the water piping to press against a diaphragm that operates the pressure control switch.
In sum, if your prior repair replaced just the internal points assembly in the pressure switch, the switch may be old enough that its sensor is clogged.
...
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Technical Reviewers & References
Related Topics, found near the top of this page suggest articles closely related to this one.
- Pumptrol® Pressure Switch Adjustment, Square D, Schneider Electric Corporation, 8001 Knightdale Blvd., Knightdale< NC 27545 1-888-778-2733 - Square D Technical Library, web search 07/24/2010 original source: http://ecatalog.squared.com/techlib/docdetail.cfm?oid=09008926800a93be
- 9013 Pumptrol® Commercial Pressure Switches Type F and 9013 Commercial Pressure Switches Type G, Catalog, SquareD, Schneider Electric Industries SAS, Schneider Electric Industries SAS, web search 02/23/2011, original source:
http://ecatalog.squared.com/pubs/Machine Control/
Pressure-Float-Vacuum Switches/Pressure Switches-Water and Air/9013CT9701.pdf
Square D is a brand of Schneider Electric.
- Class 9013 Square D Commercial Pressure Switches: Water Pump Pressure Control Switch Class 9013, Type F, G, Manual, Square D Company, 8001 Highway 64 East, Knightdale, NC 27545-9023, USA, (919) 266-3671, www.squared.com,
web search 02/24/2011, original source: stevenengineering.com/tech_support/PDFs/45COM.pdf. Quoting:
The Type FSG, FYG, FRG - PUMPTROL® Water Pump Pressure Switches are used to control Water Pump Pressure Switches are used to control
electrically driven water pumps and have the following features:
- The Type FSG is the standard water pump switch, suitable for all types of pumps: jets, submersible,
reciprocating, etc.
- The Type FYG is designed to meet higher horsepower and pressure requirements.
- The Type FRG is reverse acting: the contacts open on falling pressure.
All are diaphragm actuated.
The Type G - PUMPTROL® Commercial/Light Industrial Pressure Switch is used to control electrically
driven water pumps and air compressors. It has higher electrical ratings for direct control of motors in
pump and compressor applications. The Type G switch is diaphragm actuated and has contacts that
open on rising pressure.
- Thanks to reader J.H.
for describing his process of tracking down well pump short cycling to a well piping leak - February 2011.
- Access Water Energy, PO Box 2061, Moorabbin, VIC 3189, Australia, Tel: 1300 797 758, email: sales@accesswater.com.au Moorabbin Office: Kingston Trade Centre, 100 Cochranes Rd, Moorabbin, VIC 3189
Australian supplier of: Greywater systems, Solar power to grid packages, Edwards solar systems, Vulcan compact solar systems, water & solar system pumps & controls, and a wide rage of above ground & under ground water storage tanks: concrete, steel, plastic, modular, and bladder storage tanks.
- Smart Tank, Installation Instructions [ copy on file as /water/Smart_Tank_Flexcon.pdf ] - , Flexcon Industries, 300 Pond St., Randolph MA 02368, www.flexconind.com, Tel: 800-527-0030 - web search 07/24/2010, original source: http://www.flexconind.com/pdf/st_install.pdf
- Typical Shallow Well One Line Jet Pump Installation [ copy on file as /water/Jet_Pump_Grove_Elect_Jet_Pumps_1.pdf ] - , Grove Electric, G&G Electric & Plumbing, 1900 NE 78th St., Suite 101, Vancouver WA 98665 www.grovelectric.com - web search -7/15/2010 original source: http://www.groverelectric.com/howto/38_Typical%20Jet%20Pump%20Installation.pdf
- Typical Deep Well Two Line Jet Pump Installation [ copy on file as /water/Jet_Pump_Grove_Elect.pdf ] - , Grove Electric, G&G Electric & Plumbing, 1900 NE 78th St., Suite 101, Vancouver WA 98665 www.grovelectric.com - web search -7/15/2010 original source: http://www.groverelectric.com/howto/38_Typical%20Jet%20Pump%20Installation.pdf
- Water Fact Sheet #3, Using Low-Yielding Wells [ copy on file as /water/Low_Yield_Wells_Penn_State.pdf ] - , Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences, Cooperative Extension, School of Forest Resources, web search 07/24/2010, original source: http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/XH0002.pdf
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