Water Tank Air Pre-Charge Pressure FAQs
Questions & Answers about setting the air pressure charge in a water tank that uses an internal bladder, set #2.
This article series describes how to determine the proper air pressure setting in a bladder-type well tank, when, and how to actually change the air pressure in the water tank. It describes how to determine the proper air charge for water pressure tank and how to adjust the actual tank air pressure to that number.
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These questions and answers about how to set the proper air pressure pre-charge in a water pressure tank that uses an internal bladder were posted originally at WATER TANK AIR PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT - be sure to read the troubleshooting and repair steps given there.
Also see our index to all Q&A about diagnosing and fixing the air charge in a bladder type water pressure tank at WATER TANK AIR PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT FAQs
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My pressure tank gauge shows 30 psi when it’s pumping however it loses it’s prime every now and then I’ve been told it doesn’t have enough air in it I installed everything new but didn’t realize I had to add air to it could thus be the reason its losing prime? On 2021-01-11 by David
Reply by (mod) - No
No, David; the water pressure tank itself nor its air pre-charge amount would not explain loss of pump prime. The loss of pump prime in a well pump - by which I think you refer to an aboveground one-line or two-line jet pump, happens because a check valve, either at the pump or in the well (a foot valve) is leaking, allowing water to drain back out of the pump and into the well when the pump is off for a time.
You'll want to read the troubleshooting and repair procedure we give at PUMP PRIME, REPEATED LOSS - DF.
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I suspected the pressure of my tank was low. I shut off power to the pump and opened the faucet until the water stopped and gauge near tank read zero pressure.
I then checked the bladder pressure and it was 31. I have a 40-60 system. So I set the bladder pressure to 38 and adjusted to cut in and cut out to exactly 40 and 60.
Good to go for several months, then thought my water pressure was on the low side again.
Checked the bladder pressure and sure enough it was 32 this time. I left it as is for now. I tried putting soap around the top Schrader valve but I did not see any bubbles.
If I have a leak it must be real slow one.
Any ideas am I missing anything? Really appreciate any guidence you can provide. 2019-02-12 by Phil
by (mod) - yes there's an air leak somewhere
That sounds like you did just the right adjustment.
Keep in mind there can be other leaks that you can't see directly: leaks in well piping, a leaky foot valve or check valve, and even subtle leaks on the pump itself.But if your water pressure tank is one that uses an internal bladder then I suspect that the air leak is at the tank itself or at its air valve, the Schrader valve.
The little valve insert or pin in a Schrader valve can be replaced. You might try that to see if cleaning the valve stem and replacing the valve core works to stop the leak.
For other readers: a sign that the air charge may have been lost OR that the water tank bladder is leaking or damaged would be water pump short cycling, described along with repair advice
More about repairing leaky water tanks is
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I have a Well-X-trol WX203, which comes preset 28 psi and a pump switch 30/50. May I change the recommended 30/50 pump switch to a 20/40 and accordingly adjust the air pressure to 18 psi? On 2016-08-02 by BillM
by (mod) - yes but remember to adjust the pressure tank's air-charge
The Well-X-Trol WX203 is a newer Amtrol product.
Your model, #203, is a 32 gallon tank. At 30/50 pumping range you're getting about ten gallons of draw-down before the pump has to turn on.
The product chart shows draw-down quantities for various tank sizes at three pressure ranges: 30/50, 40/60, 50/70 psi.
The tank will work with a lower operating range of 20/40 but the draw-down quantity will probably be reduced by a bit over 10% or to about 9 gallons.
That means the pump will run 10% more often - probably not a catastrophe. You will also see the the flow rate at fixtures (what people call "water pressure") will be a bit less.
I'd give it a try. ButWatch out: the proper water tank air pre-charge (with the tank empty of water) for a 30/50 pressure control is (30 - 2 ) or 28 psi.
When you lower the pressure control switch down to 20/40 that drops the CUT-IN pressure to 20 psi at the switch. So you need to adjust the water tank air pre-charge down to (20 - 2) or 18 psi.
If you don't do that the pump will never turn on.
Just bought a new pressure tank with the preset stated as 28 psi which is correct for my cut-in of 30psi.
But a check with 2 pressure gauges shows it is 34 psi. I either accept the factory preset as correct and my gauges read high or my gauges are correct and I release air. 2 psi is not much of a margin-of-error. What will happen if the tank pressure is set above the pump cut-in? (Oct 25, 2015) Colin
Reply: the pump will never turn on
Colin
Keep in mind that the air pressure you read at a water tank will be affected by temperature changes. If your water or tank are warm the pressure will be high.
I would go ahead and drop the pressure to 28 psi by your gauges.
If you set the air pressure in the tank above the pump's cut-in pressure with a tank using an internal bladder, ultimately the pump won't turn on.
In a tank that does not separate air from water by using an internal bladder, the excess air will simply blow out of nearby faucets and thus the problem will resolve itself.
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How do I let the air out of our water tank? 16 June 2011 Anon
Reply:
You don't normally need to get air OUT of a water tank, you need to get water in.
If someone is putting an air charge into a BLADDERLESS water pressure tank and they put in too much, the excess air will pass out of the tank through the building water piping and fixtures when water is next run in the building.
However if you needed to vent air out of a bladderless water tank, since air will be in the top of the tank, look for either an air valve or a removable plumbing fitting at or close to the top of the tank.
That valve can be opened (press the valve pin to release air just as with an automobile tire), or that fitting can be removed (watch out: old fittings may be corroded, hard to get out and hard to re-seal) to release air.
Watch out: if your bladderless water tank is part of a deep well system that uses SNIFTER & DRAIN BACK VALVES and if the automatic excess air vent is not working on the water tank you may see excess air accumulating in the pressure tank and coming out at faucets. If this problem continues see the diagnosis and repair advice in that article.
If your water tank contains an internal bladder, there will be a Schrader air valve (like a tire valve) at the top of the tank that can be used to put air in or let air out of the tank.
Watch out: if a water pressure tank that uses an internal bladder is set with an excessive air pre-charge the system will not work properly: the water volume draw-down before the pump turns on will be too small, or the pump may not turn on at all.
Worse, at pressures above the rated pressure for the water tank you may burst the tank or a water pipe and thus could and injure someone.
If you are asking because air is coming out of your faucets or other fixtures
see AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES
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