More water or well pump pressure control switch setting or adjustment FAQs:
This article series answers commonly-asked questions about how to adjust a well pump or water pump pressure control switch. We provide pump pressure setting advice, procedures & questions & answers about adjusting the pump switch.
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?
Watch out: SAFETY WARNING OF FATAL SHOCK HAZARD: if you remove the cover of the pump pressure control switch you can get access to the two nuts that adjust the operating pressures of the water pump.
[Click to enlarge any image]
These questions were posted originally
at WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS - be sure to see that article if you need to adjust the settings on your pressure control switch for your water pump or well pump.
On 2018-10-15 by (mod) - very low pressure in my showers
Perhaps clogged pipes or shower heads since your note makes clear that this is not a plumbing-system-wide problem.
On 2018-10-15 by Dave Rai
I have a well water at my home. The pressure in the tank reads 50 when pump cuts out and 30 when starts. It seems to work fine. But there is very low pressure in my showers in both bathrooms. What is the problem?
On 2018-10-14 by (mod) - problem is in the pump itself or in the water supply from your well.
No.
From what you described problem is in the pump itself or in the water supply from your well.
On 2018-10-13 by wilfred
i have a 1/3 hp submersible pump and a tank that pre set at 35lb psi ,but the switch cut in at 10 psi and cut out at 25 psi .If i tries to increase the shut of pressure above 25 the switch will not cut out. Do i need to reduce the pressure in the tank.? thank for your reply.
On 2018-09-21 by (mod) -
James
Maybe you can attach a photo of what we're discussing? (and better for us to not SHOUT)
Thanks - Mod
On 2018-09-21 by James R WaSH
I have an electronic pressure system located outside my well. The incoming water pipe has a brass "T" on it.
One end of the "T" has a small plastic pipe going to the electronic pressure gage.
And the other part of the "T" has a bronze "T" fitting on it with an open port on the bottom and at the end of the "T" has a cap on it. Under the cap is an adjustable screw. The "T" is leaking?
On 2018-09-02 by (mod) -
Yes, Jim, in my OPINION
Running a water supply system at a lower pressure will pretty-much always mean that the building occupants will use less water, thus waste less water, since the delivery flow rate will be less at the lower operating pressure range.
Water conservation becomes increasingly important as just about everywhere in the world fresh, potable water is in ever less supply.
There is a second advantage as well: lower electrical bills. By running the system at a lower water usage rate your water pump may cycle less frequently. (There can be exceptions but this is generally the case, all else being kept equal in a given water supply system).
Additional savings in water usage are, of course available such as low-flush toilets, waterless urinals, and restricted-flow shower heads and faucets.
More suggestions are at WATER CONSERVATION MEASURES https://inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Conservation_Methods.php
The disadvantage of setting the water pressure to operate in the lower range is that in some buildings where mineral clogging or other clogs or restrictions already give a poor water flow at specific fixtures, occupants may gripe about the lousy water "pressure" (actually flow-rate).
However for the sake of water and energy conservation I'd prefer to fix those complaints by finding and fixing the restrictions.
For example it seems unfortunate to me that someone would install a higher capacity water pump and run it at a higher system operating pressure when all that may have been needed is to un-screw a faucet strainer and clear out the debris lodged therein.
On 2018-09-02 by jim
is there an advantage in on off pressure cycling 30_50,vs40-60psi
On 2018-06-14 by (mod) -
Rina
See WATER HAMMER NOISE DIAGNOSE & CURE https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Water_Hammer_Noise.php
On 2018-06-13 by Rina
Hi i hava a very regulated knocking sound on the geyzer for the last day. Could yhe presurre on the pump have anything to do with it?
On 2018-05-19 by (mod) -
If the pressure switch is not responding to changes in water pressure, and assuming that you've adjusted the switches correctly and that they are actually within range of the system water pressure, then I suspect the switch sensor port or tube conducting water pressure to the switch has become debris clogged. Replace the switch and clear the pressure tube.
On 2018-05-18 by DON
two pres
sure switches later and both refuse to shut off at 50--60 psi.I;ve tried adjusting them to no avail.what is the answer?
On 2018-04-24 by (mod) -
Sam
If you are certain that no water is running in the building then I suspect there's a leaky foot valve or a leak in the well piping.
On 2018-04-18 by Sam
My well pump continues to cycle every five minutes even when there is not demand for water
On 2018-04-14 by (mod) -
Lisa that can be normal if your water usage is greater than the pump's delivery rate.
On 2018-04-14 by Lisa Fields
Water pressure pump runs constantly when I turned the outside hose bibbs on.
On 2018-03-24 by (mod) -
Confusingly, the two adjustment nuts or screws affect one an other.
See PRESSURE SWITCH NUT ADJUSTMENTS for details about which nut to turn and which to adjust first and about how they interact.
https://inspectapedia.com/water/Pressure_Switch_Nut_Adjust.php
On 2018-03-23 by Ralph
Trying To. adjust my new square D shallow well switch. It jumps between 25 and 35 quickly and constantly. Adjusting doesn't change it very much.whats going online?
On 2018-03-10 by (mod) -
Try replacing the pressure control switch and the tubing or pipe that conducts water pressure to the switch sensor.
On 2018-03-10 by Phil B
Pump will turn off by the pressure switch but won't turn back on when tap is open
On 2018-03-07 by (mod) -
Check out WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING at https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Pump_Runs_On.php
On 2018-03-05 by Jeff m.
Bought and replaced pressure switch. As with old switch, it will run perfect 30 to 50 psi, for 10 to 30 cycles then it will stick on until i physically seperate the contacts. The gauge seems to be working ok. Please help.
I'm just renting the house. I usually do small repairs myself but I'm lost on this one.
On 2018-02-25 by (mod) -
Debi
Sometimes during a loss of power a pre-existing problem - a bad check valve or foot valve - is disclosed: because power is off the pump never runs, water is lost down the piping, back into the well, and the pump loses prime.
It's possible too that the pressure gauge is inaccurate - particularly if despite an acceptable (over 20 psi) gauge reading you don't have water pressure in the building.
FIRST if you haven't already done so, turn the pump OFF - don't let a pump run dry or it can be damaged
Next try priming the pump or ask a plumber to help you do so
See PRIME the PUMP, HOW TO at https://inspectapedia.com/water/Prime_The_Well_Pump.php
Keep me posted and we'll take it from there
On 2018-02-25 by Debi
our electric went on and off several times during about a 30 minute span never went off and stayed off just intermittent after that our water pressure in the house was very low, just trickling....the pressure at the pump gauge seems to be ok and goes from 30-50 any help much appreciated as I am here alone and husband is gone for 2 months...HELP please.
On 2018-02-11 by (mod) -
The problem you describe could be caused by debris clogging at the pressure sensor Port of a well pump pressure control switch. Replace the switch and clear or replace the tube that conducts water pressure to it.
On 2018-02-11 by Blake
I am having issues with my water pressure. I thought it had to do with my water softener but now i am thinking not. i took off my bypass valve and made sure there was no build up to rule out the water softener. I will have a complete loss of water pressure intermittently.
when i thought it was the water softener i would put it in bypass and it seemed to work i would also open the drain valve on my domestic side to my water heater.
I am thinking my pressure switch to my well is going bad. I have also noticed an increase in water pressure in the past few weeks that has coincided with the intermittent loss of pressure.
i wanted to see if my train of thought is on track. any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
Blake
On 2018-01-08 by (mod) -
Rodney
That sounds as if the diaphragm that converts water pressure to movement to activate your pressure control switch has ruptured. It's time to replace the switch.
Watch out: wet wiring and controls risk death by electrocution. Be sure to turn off power before touching anything near the pump and its controls.
On 2018-01-08 by Rodney
water leakes from my pump pressure switch box. what causes this
On 2017-12-25 by (mod) -
Sahil
I am quite puzzled by what you describe and can think of no ready explanation. I'll think about it further.
On 2017-12-24 by Sahil
Can someone help....
I have a water tank on ground floor and a pump to give pressure to the house (ground+1st floor). On the roof I have another water tank.
The problem is that in the kitchen downstairs I have pressure. In the WC/Shower ground floor an 1st floor, to have pressure we need to open the tap of the kitchen then we have pressure.
Someone have an explanation?
On 2017-11-14 by Claudia
My well water pressure pump is 30/50. The pressure gauge reads 60. I have one sink faucet that drips. When I try to turn the valves under the sink off to replace the washer, the valves leak, and the water continues to run.
Also, we recently had a new water heater installed, and it has developed a leak. It appears to be at the spot where the overflow spout is, but it’s as if the overflow spout overshot the drip pan. Could either of these be caused by the pressure being too high?
On 2017-11-05 by JOHN B
My DAB home water pressure pump runs well,cuts out at correct pressure but the cut in (start up again) operation sometimes doesnt happen .
A RED button on the controller lights up & all I need to do to re start the pump is push the red button.I am having to do it two or 3 times each day which is annoying.What should I do to correct this problem.
On 2017-10-10 by (mod) -
Typical CUT OFF pressure is set to 40 psi on a 20/40 switch or to 50 psi on a 30-.50 switch
On 2017-10-02 by Rock
How much psi before water pump shuts off
On 2017-09-21 by Alex
It turns out the air cell (diaphragm) in the tank was shot. New tank installed and everything is working well!
On 2017-09-20 by Anonymous
thanks! I adjusted everything but the air pressure in the tank fluctuates to the same as whatever the gauge is reading near the switch...
which makes me think I need a new pressure tank? For example, when the tank is cutting in at 30, the air pressure in the tank at the top reads 30, and when it cuts out at 50,
the pressure in the tank is 50. When I drained air to 28 psi, it just went back up when the pump cut in.. so my tank doesn't seem to be holding air.
On 2017-09-19 by (mod) -
Such pipe plugs are normally used to simply close off a utility connection that is not in use.
On 2017-09-19 by Alex
Thanks for getting back to me. I can't provide a picture at the moment but they are square head plugs that thread into the pipe.
I took one out and screwed in a valve with an end that allows me to attach a hose.
There is still one more plug a few inches from the other one.
On 2017-09-19 by (mod) -
Alex,
Yes you can do what you describe. I'm not clear on where you added the drain valve nor what the other "bolt" is - use the page top or bottom CONTACT link to send me some photos and maybe I can make a more useful comment.
Indeed crud in the pressure switch sensor port can cause it to fail to respond when it should.
On 2017-09-19 by Alex
Hello,
I bought a house and My pump switch has 30/50 written on it. The home's water pressure is less than ideal.
I shut off the pump, drained the lines, added a valve to make future drainage easier(lots of sediment and corroded gunk in there), and added a new gauge. When everything was drained, I turned the pump back on and it cut in at 15 psi and cuts out at 40 psi.
I made sure to adjust the tank (wellmate) pressure to 2 psi less than the cut in for the time being, but obviously this is too low.
In this case, can I just shut the power off, adjust the cut in & cut off pressures on the switch (to 30/50), and then adjust the tank pressure to be 2 psi less than the new cut in (28psi)?
Also, Where I put the valve on, there is another bolt/plug right next to it... if it is anything like the first one I took out, it is most likely corroded and possibly has build up as well... could this be causing my issue?
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks!!
On 2017-09-02 by (mod) -
I share your curiosity and sympathize with having no water.
But with no more information than your note I can only offer a wild guess at what's wrong.
If the pump runs but delivers no water it may have lost prime - in turn caused by a bad check valve or foot valve in the well. That snafu can lead people to replace a pump and tank without noticing that the actual poroblem is in the well.
Above in the live link given at ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS
in that index you'll find several articles for NO WATER PRESSURE or PUMP WON'T TURN ON that give detailed diagnostic steps you can follow.
Keep me posted and ask again when you are ready for more help.
On 2017-09-02 by Mike
Hello I just installed a new pressure tank, gauges, pressure switch and all the fittings. I adjusted my pressure in the tank to 28PSI and the water ran great. When I woke up the next day I had no water again any ideas on why this would happen?
On 2017-07-09 by (mod) -
Sugar
If the pressure switch is set to cut out at 60 and the pump can't push pressure to more than 40 psi then I'd expect the pump to run continuously once it's turned-on.
The problem could be in the well itself - low well flow rate - or something else. We give a detailed diagnosis of this problem at
WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Pump_Runs_On.php
If the pump is not working at all, that is if it won't turn on,
first check that when you turn off the pump and drain water until no more water runs, that the tank's air pre-charge pressure is set to 38 psi - 2 psi below the switch cut-in pressure. Otherwise the tank pressure will keep the pump from turning on.
Let me know what's up and we'll continue from there.
On 2017-07-09 by Sugarloaf Perplexed
I have replaced my captive air well water tank and a matching 40-60 pressure switch on a well that serves a pool and pool-house. I used the old Tee pipe with pressure relief valves but replaced the pressure gauge. . Install went well ... no leaks.
When I power on the pump the tank begins to fill and the pressure gauge starts to rise and there is good water flow at the spigots.
The pressure rises to ~40 psi but no higher. When I shut off the power to the pump the pressure gauge drops to zero but there is still residual pressure at the spigots even the next day.
I replaced the pressure gauge but the no change. Can you help me decide what to do to get the system working again? Thank you
On 2017-06-27 by Rich
Dose high pressure adjust down or up and what is for low pressure
On 2017-06-22 by (mod) -
Shannon, will a building has adequate water flow at some fixtures but not others I suspect the problem is with the piping system such as a clog or a closed valve comma or if the pressure differences are between poor flow on an upper floor and adequate floor on a lower floor
then I suspect that the well pump is unable to reach normal operating pressure period if that's your case you will see that the pub will continue to run without shutting off
On 2017-06-22 by Shannon
We have a well as our source for water. Today, we have lost pressure to the washing machine and toilet. Sinks and shower seem to be working good. What could cause this problem?
On 2017-06-05 by (mod) -
Usually that's a debris-clogging problem, Greg. Even a new switch may act clogged if the tube or nipple conducting water pressure to it was muddy or rust-blocked. So I'd look there first.
On the other hand IF the switch is CLOSED - calling for the pump to run - AND if there is power to the pump wires, AND the pump does not run or no water is delivered that's a different problem - for which you'd want to see
On 2017-06-05 by Greg
Have well pump that the pressure switch opens up and pressure on well goes to zero. Don't know why the pressure switch didn't close at 30# pressure. Pressure switch is fairly new.
...
Continue reading at WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS - topic home, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
Or see WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUST FAQs-4 - more-recent questions & answers about setting the pressure control switch adjustment
Or see these
WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUST FAQs-3 at Ins pectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.
Or use the SEARCH BOX found below to Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia
Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.
Search the InspectApedia website
Note: appearance of your Comment below may be delayed: if your comment contains an image, photograph, web link, or text that looks to the software as if it might be a web link, your posting will appear after it has been approved by a moderator. Apologies for the delay.
Only one image can be added per comment but you can post as many comments, and therefore images, as you like.
You will not receive a notification when a response to your question has been posted.
Please bookmark this page to make it easy for you to check back for our response.
IF above you see "Comment Form is loading comments..." then COMMENT BOX - countable.ca / bawkbox.com IS NOT WORKING.
In any case you are welcome to send an email directly to us at InspectApedia.com at editor@inspectApedia.com
We'll reply to you directly. Please help us help you by noting, in your email, the URL of the InspectApedia page where you wanted to comment.
In addition to any citations in the article above, a full list is available on request.