No Water Pressure, Burned Wires, Hot Pump, Breaker Trip or just at GaugeQuestions and answers about what to do if you have no water pressure at all:
Complete loss of water supply at a building.
These lost water pressure questions & answers help sort out the causes of water pressure problems and help determine if the problem appears to be at the water pump, pump controls, pump wiring, or the actual water source such as a private well or water storage tank.
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These questions and answers about total loss of water pressure were posted originally
at NO WATER PRESSURE - diagnosis and repair advice. Be sure to see that article.
Also see our index to all questions and answers about loss of water pressure listed at NO WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSTIC FAQs
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We have replaced the points, the pump, and the pump control box, but it still blows the fuse every time we put one in. We have no water because of the blown fuse. Please someone help us. Oh and we also rewired. On 2019-03-30 by Andrea-
by (mod)
Andrea
Usually when the pump circuit blows a fuse or breaker I suspect that either there is a wiring short OR there is a pump that is damaged/ruined/jammed and drawing high current.
In that scenario a well expert would hook up an ammeter and COM to the wiring to do some simple tests to see what happens when you try to turn on the pump, as well as tests for shorted wires and tests for circuit resistance that can indicate a failed motor or winding.
You may also want to see the motor testsat ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
HOWEVER from just your brief note you've replaced pump, pressure control switch, and "control box" - I'm not sure exactly what you've got - an above ground jet pump or an in-well submersible pump.
You also "re-wired" but I don't know how much of the circuit was addressed.
It sounds as if there's either a wiring error or damaged wires that are shorting together or shorting to ground.
Hire an electrician to follow the pump circuit from the breaker onwards (starting by making sure the breaker itself is not defective and that it's the right size)
Once I flip the switch I get good water pressure and the switch kicks on and off a few times then it makes a humming noise and the water stops running and then my breaker flips. On 2019-01-08 by Michael -
by (mod) -
Watch out: Sounds to me like a failing pump motor drawing high current and tripping the breaker. I'd leave it off (sorry) and call your pump service company for repair. (There could of course be different causes).
Our water pump tripped the breaker twice in the last two weeks. Seems like it may have happened at nite. The only water running then would be the water softener we rent from Culligan. On 2018-11-06 by Vicki Green -
by (mod) -
Vicki
Speculating: when the water softener is in regen cycle it can run for quite some time through multiple phases of backwash and regen, using a lot of water. Details are at WATER SOFTENER REGENERATION CYCLE DURATION
That water use could be dropping the water level in the well or simply running the pump a long time either causing a marginal, near end of life motor, to overheat and seize-up, drawing high current, tripping a breaker.
So your well water flow rate may be poor or your pump is at end of life, or both .
I was running bath water and the flow dwindled and stopped. I went to breaker box to see if anything has flipped and it hadn't. Returned to bath and turned on water. Ran a minute and same thing.
Went outside to pump and it was burning hot to the touch. Pressure was at about 124 psi.
Turned off the On/Off switch that's connected to pump with a white cable. Went back inside and turned off pump at breaker box. Went outside and turned off gas to house, then inside turned off water heater.
Called a pro. He had me turn breaker back on, and he ran water out of faucet/spigot that comes off the holding tank.
Plenty of water at strong force. He turned it off and pump started getting hot again.
He ran faucet/spigot again, with same water and force results. He turned it off. With tools, checked several things total (3?), and said I need a new pump.
At $850 total for pump and install, want to feel confident I'm not getting taken.
He said until I get money, I can have water in small amounts by turning on breakers and will have a couple minutes to flush toilet, bottle some water, or whatever.
Then must turn off and wait an hour or so before do same thing again.
Just so I won't be totally without water. Sounds like a legit analysis to you on replacing pump?
Thanks so much!! On 2018-04-05 by Elizabeth Bacon-Smith
Warnings & Recommendations by (mod) -
Elizabeth:
FIRST STEPS for anyone in this situation is to do pretty much what you did:
If your pump is burning hot to the touch it's almost certainly overheating;TURN OFF THE PUMP in any case to avoid further damage or even a possible electrical fire.
The pump overheating and tripping a circuit breaker or blowinf a fuse can be due to lack of water and the pump running dry, low voltage to the pump, or a failing pump bearing or impeller that's jamming, OR a failed pressure control switch that is not turning off the pump at the proper cutoff pressure.
Watch out: if your system pressure is really at 124 PSI there is risk of a burst water tank or burst piping that can cause serious injury as well as of course a flood in your home.Turn off the pump immediately and relieve pressure by running some water at the faucets and leave the pump OFF.
Then your plumber will both check out the pump itself and should check that your well has not run dry and then perhaps replace the pressure controller.
CONTINUING:
Bottom line: If the pump is overheating because of a bad bearing then yes it most-likely needs replacement.
Watch out:But your system pressure (IF the gauge is accurate) should not be so high - that is unsafe, and it points to a completely different problem: a clogged or defective pressure control switch. If I were the plumber I'd check out that problem first as the repair is significantly less expensive.More diagnosis is needed: keep in mind that while you may need a new pump, just replacing the pump won't protect the new pump from overheating or impeller damage if the underlying problem is loss of water in the well or loss of pump prime due to a leaky check valve or foot valve.
So at the time that the pump is replaced I'd want the plumber to confirm that there is water in the well and that the pump isn't losing prime when no water is run for a time. - Daniel
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My pressure on the tank is reading zero but my well is running fine please help On 2018-02-1 by Devon
Explanation and repair advice by (mod) -
Most likely the gauge's pressure sensing port is sediment or debris clogged.
I'd replace the pressure gauge, Devon - following the procedure at
Details are at WATER PRESSURE GAUGE ACCURACY
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This past week we lost water. Assumed it was a frozen well line due to recent cold temps (although never happened before). Back washed/flushed the line from house to the wellhead with warm water to confirm no frozen line.
Noticed burned through wire by wire nuts just under well cap, reconnected and still no water. circuit tester shows current to all three well pump wires (3 wire, 1/2 hp submersible).
so assumed burned up pump. I replaced pump, well wires, control switch box, pressure tank & switch 4 years ago, so reluctantly pulled pump (0 degree wind chill of course)and replaced pump, wired same as before and still no water.
Well has water, lines are not frozen. power to well wiring. Getting ready to pull pump again to see if it actually comes on (can't feel or hear it kick on in the casing (150' down hole). any suggestions? On 2018-01-06 by John
by (mod) - sounds lke a short circuit or a seized well pump motor
Burned-through wire can occur when the pump draws excessive current - such as if a pump motor is burned up or seized or wires are shorted - so I'd have thought the same as you.
Now with all new controls, wiring, and pump, we need to see if the pump is getting power and running. Check the current draw.
Also see ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE for some typical values that you'll compare with the pump's data tag. Too much current: seized motor; too little current - broken impeller or pump running dry.
Oh and don't forget a continuity check (with power off) of your wiringWatch out: unless those damaged wires and wire connectors happened because of a short or arc right at that point, a short circuit or seized motor should have tripped a breaker or blown a fuse before melting or burning up the pump wiring - be sure that your circuit breaker or fuse is working.
Watch out also for some notorious "no trip" circuit breaker failures such as Fedeal Pacific Electric or FPE brand breakers that often jam and don't trip If that's the problem you'll need to replace the electrical panel. This topic is discussed in detail CIRCUIT BREAKER FAILURE RATES -
Watch out: if you're not trained and equipped to do these tests you could be shocked or killed - get help. - Daniel Friedman
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