Septic / Sewage / Grinder Pump Diagnosis & RepairSewage & septic pump clog or failure causes, diagnosis, repair, prevention guide:
Warning list of items that will clog septic pumps and grinder pump.
This article describes the causes of and steps to prevent clogging and/or damage to septic pumps, grinder pumps, and sewage ejector pumps. We include excerpts from sewage or septic grinder pump manufacturers' installation manuals that describe sewage pump diagnosis & repair procedures.
This article series also lists septic and grinder pump types, brands, and will identify pumps that are resistant to damage from debris or objects that may enter the toilet, sewer line, or septic tank.
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?
InspectAPedia.com readers report troubles with several types of septic pumps, sewage pumps, and grinder pumps, both for sewage ejector pumps located in the home (such as to pump a basement toilet waste line up to a higher main drain) and for pumps that operate septic or graywater tanks.
Septic pump damage may occur from certain objects that enter building drains regardless of where and how the pump is used, including in-building sewage ejector pumps (shown at left) or pumps used in septic tanks or septic effluent tanks.
Some of the items in this list won't damage the septic tank itself as their volume is small and they don't usually block the septic piping or baffles, but if your septic system or even public sewer connection use a septic pump, grinder pump, or sewage ejector pump, the items listed here can clog and damage or even destroy a sewage pump, leading to costly repairs.
Watch out for the following conditions that cause clogging and even burn up of various types of sewage pumps, grinder pumps, ejector pumps, and septic pumps:
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See WHAT CAN GO INTO TOILETS & DRAINS? for complete details.
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The following Common Sewage / Septic Pump Problems and sewage pump (septic grinder pump) diagnosis & repair advice is adapted from installation manuals from manufacturers & from other sources.
Table of Septic or Sewage Pump Diagnostic Steps |
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| Grinder Pump Problem | Probable Cause | Comments |
| Sewage / Grinder Pump Motor will not start or won't keep running |
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See |
| Sewage / Grinder Pump Motor trips circuit breaker, blows fuse, overheats |
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| Sewage / Grinder Pump Motor short cycling, rapid on-off or too-frequent cycling |
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The pumping chamber or basin and the pump's pumping capacity must be adequate to handle the maximum anticipated wastewater flow-rate into the system |
| Sewage / Grinder Pump Motor won't stop running |
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See SEPTIC / SEWAGE PUMP WON'T STOP |
Effluent, Septic, Sewage Pump Clogging Weak pump output flow rate or pump runs but no water output |
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See SEPTIC / SEWAGE PUMP WAXY CLOGGING - white waxy clog See SEPTIC / SEWAGE PUMP NO-FLUSH LIST - waste or debris clogging See SEPTIC & SEWAGE PUMPS - wrong pump selected See ELECTRIC MOTOR RUN DIRECTION - motor runs backwards See Note 2 below |
| Reduced septic pump lift capacity or flow rate |
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See Note 2 below |
| Sewage pump cycles intermittently, at odd times, or when no water is being run in the building |
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Inspect sewage pump pit for leaks into the pumping chamber Inspect sewage pump pit or basin for roof drainage or other un-wanted drainage into the system |
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Is the use of CLR to clean a toilet bowl safe for a septic grinder pump?
Greg,
Your effect of using CLR toilet bowl stain remover on a sewage effluent pump or a septic grinder pump is an excellent one.
Nearly all authorities warn that acids or other chemicals might harm a septic system (I agree), and some chemicals may harm the seals in the grinder pump system as well.
However, a review of seven most-widely cited grinder pump and sewage pump advisory papers or instruction sets found that not one of them specified the actual level of acidity that would or would not be harmful to the pumping system.
That leaves us to make a reasonable guess at the answer: sufficiently diluted, an acid-based toilet cleaner should not harm either the pump or the septic system.
I pose that occasional use of a toilet stain remover (often including acids), used as directed, will be diluted enough to avoid such harm. You can reduce the risk of grinder or effluent pump damage further by additional dilution of the acid-based cleaner: try 2 or three additional flushes to dilute and then remove the acidic cleaner from the grinder pump reservoir.
Subsequent normal daily use of the sinks, showers, tubs, and toilets connected to the septic or sewage pump will further dilute any acidic content in the pump reservoir to a harmless level.
Watch out: flushing any acid into a residential sewage grinder pump or septic effluent pump that subsequently remains un-used for days, weeks, or longer, might risk damage to the pump components because in that case the acidic solution may remain in contact with pump parts for a prolonged interval.
Details:
Instructions from CLR for using this product to clean a severely-stained toilet bowl, the company suggests using 5-6 oz of CLR into a toilet bowl that has been emptied of water, then scrubbing the bowl with the solution.
At that level of usage and when further diluted by water as the toilet is flushed, even in the first flush the 6 oz. of solution (hazardous acidic) is diluted in 1-2 gallons of water or more (depending on toilet design and flush quantity).
In even a single gallon flush you are diluting the solution by 6:128 and subsequent flushes further dilute the solution.
In three flushes or 3 gallons total, you have diluted the original acidic CLR cleaner to 1% of its original strength. Even without knowing the actual level of acidity of the product as sold in the container, this is likely to be so dilute as to be harmless to the pump.
The product, used as directed, is in my opinion harmless to a septic grinder pump as well as harmless to a septic system.
For other readers, CLR is a calcium, lime, rust remover "from glassware, tile and coffee pots. It removes lime scale from shower heads, tubs, humidifiers, toilets and sinks. This CLR cleaner also removes rust stains from stucco, brick, porcelain and chrome." contains the following chemicals:
Water CAS 7732-18-5,
Lactic Acid CAS 79-33-4, classified by OSHA as hazardous
Gluconic Acid CAS 526-95-4, classified by OSHA as hazardous
Lauramine Oxide CAS 1643-20-5, classified by OSHA as hazardous
Tripropylene Glycol N-Butyl Ether CAS 55934-93-5,
Blue 1 CAS 3844-45-9,
Yellow 5 CAS 1934-21-0.
CLR is produced by Jelmar, 5550 W. Touhy Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 USA
See the MSDS for CLR at inspectapedia.com/hazmat/CLR-Calcium-Lime-Rust-Remover-MSDS.pdf
The MSDS for CLR includes this
Emergency Overview: WARNING: EYE IRRITATANT. GHS Toxicity Category 2A Causes eye irritation and possible SKIN IRRITATANT GHS Category 3 – on sensitive skin.
DO NOT get in eyes, on skin or clothing. DO NOT mix with bleach or other household chemicals as harmful fumes may result. DO NOT ingest. DO NOT breathe vapor or mist.
Use in well ventilated areas. Keep container closed when not in use.
At SEPTIC PUMP INSPECTION & MAINTENANCE we provide copies of the articles and papers reviewed to form the opinion given above.
Please also see TOILETS, DON'T FLUSH LIST
Watch out: if you are leaving your grinder pump un-used for a prolonged period, we recommend following these instructions
If you plan on being away for several days, replace the wastewater in the tank with clean water to help minimize odors.
First run water from an inside faucet long enough for the grinder pump to start working.
After the pump starts, turn the inside faucet off. The pump will run until the tank is empty and shut off automatically.
This process will cleanse the pump and leave it filled with a minimum of clean water.
Always leave the power to the pump on.
This allows the heating element inside the pump to operate which helps eliminate condensation and freezing. - GRINDER PUMP FAQS for CT [PDF] Groton Connecticut Department of Public Works, retrieved 20178/06/19, original source: http://www.groton-ct.gov/depts/pubwks/docs/Grinder%20Pump%20Website%20info%20the%20hurricane.pdf
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Our reader asked:
I hope you may be able to help me. I have a residential lift pump station in my home. It has been installed for about 25 years downstairs in my home and services the downstairs bathroom with a sink, shower and toilet and a bar sink, with little if any problems. There is very little use on this system as we have all of our appliances and upstairs bathrooms going directly to our municipal sewer system.
My problem is that the lift station pump motor cuts in about every 4 hours even when there has been no waste water going into the tank from the devices that it serves. It goes through it's normal pumping action for about 15 to 20 seconds and stops and this repeats almost every 4 hours.
Don't know what is causing this as we have been very careful not to put anything in it that could clog the system since we had it installed. This happened about a year ago in July, went back to normal operation over the fall, winter and spring and now it is happening again in August.
Can you suggest what may be causing this intermittent problem. I purchased a new pump last year so I would have a back up but prefer not to have to install it unless absolutely necessary. Could it be that the baffle on the main sewer line going from my house may be clogging occasionally and staying open and causing water to come back into the lift station downstairs and causing the pump to cut in?
Thank you very much for your earliest reply and any assistance that you may be able to give. Regards, [Anonymous] by private email 2016/08/17
You probably are using a sewage grinder pump for which we offer diagnosis and repair help online in this article serise beginning
with SEWAGE EJECTOR / GRINDER PUMPS - though this problem can occur on sewage effluent pumps too.
Alsos ee SEPTIC SYSTEM PUMPS
You're astute to suggest the possibility of sewage backflow into your pumping station, perhaps at a slow-enough rate that it takes a rather regular number of hours before the sewage pump has to cycle on again.
I suggest taking a look in the pumping chamber at the end of a pump-on cycle. Make note of the remaining wastewater level at the end of the pump cycle.
If you see the wastewater rise in the pumping chamber then we need to decide where it's coming from.
Look for an immediate backflow into the chamber from the pump's ejector drain line: that would indicate a bad check valve that's allowing wastewater to fall back into the pit, causing more frequent cycling than needed and shortening pump life.
You may be able to see the building wastewater pipe that enters the pumping chamber from the building fixtures. If that line is not flowing then look for more slowly-rising wastewater backflowing from the exit drain line. Check the wastewater level in the pumping chamber every hour.
If there is doubt about whether wastewater is entering the pumping chamber from running plumbing fixtures in the building versus from backflow in the sewage exit line, then try turning off all water into the building, then flush toilets (so we don't get confused by slow toilet tank drainage into the waste piping).
For the case you are describing you may also see no drainback into the pumping chamber from the exiting wastewater line at all.
In that instance I suspect that water is entering the pumping chamber from
Running plumbing fixtures in your building, such as a toilet that's running but perhaps slowly enough that you haven't noticed it.
See TOILET RUNS CONTINUOUSLYas sometimes people miss this condition.
Leave supply water off while you watch again for water rising in the pumping chamber. If no toilet tanks hold water that might be draining and water supply to all building fixtures is off and you see wastewater rising in the pumping chamber there are two obvious possibilities:
We (and you) suggested above a backflowing sewer line or a bad checkvalve in that line (including right at the sewage pump).
Also
see SEWER BACKUP PREVENTION where we discuss backflow and check valves on waste piping.
A second possibility is groundwater entering the pumping chamber if it has become open to soil under the building. To evaluate this possibility you'll probably have to empty the chamber completely and inspect it for damage, holes, cuts, or for entering water from around the chamber's exterior. Keep in mind that depending on how the exiting waste piping is routed, a leaky exiting waste line could itself leak and seep back into the pumping chamber.
E.g. I have found a "wet basement" whose "water" entry was by no coincidence, entering the foundation wall just below the exit point of the main sewer line. Outside the building the line was broken and leaking back into the building.
Other clues that make a waste pump cycle intermittently could be traced to the same conditions that cause a private well pump to cycle intermittently on the supply side of the plumbing system, so you might also want to check the diagnostic suggestions
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Our ejector sewage pump will not shut off even when there is nothing going into it - what do we do to fix this? Heather.
Heather, sewage ejector pumps normally are operated by a float control switch. As wastewater rises in the holding tank when the level is high enough the float switch turns the pump on.
The pump runs until the level of wastewater falls enough to cause the float to fall far enough for the switch to turn off the pump.
So if your sewage pump never turns off, presuming it's properly wired, the float switch is either stuck on debris in the holding tank, or the switch needs to be replaced.
The image at left shows the second very commonly-used type of float control switch, in this case using Zoeller™ pumps as an example.
The red arrow indicates the actual float - on occasion a float may become waterlogged or simply disconnected from its mounting shaft.
The green arrow in our sewer pump float switch example is the actual switch assembly that turns the motor on and off as the float, on its shaft, rises and falls vertically. Image source: plumbingsupply.com [4]
Take a look at the two most common sewage float switch types in our Little Giant™ sketch above and the Zoeller™ sewage pump and control switch image at left. Your switch probably looks like one of these two types.
In a few rare instances I have found homes at which the ejector pump float switch had failed and the owners, rather than replacing the switch, just hard-wired the pump to turn on and off by a manual switch.
This is a bad idea for obvious reasons including inconvenience and the risk that either the pump is left on longer than necessary or left off leading to a sewage backup.
To diagnose the sewage pump control problem it's best to open an inspection port on the holding tank where the ejector pump is located.
It may be possible to spot and remove a object clogging the float switch. Otherwise replacing the float switch is the next step.
Watch out: in addition to obvious bacterial hazards at sewage pumping stations there are methane gas hazards of explosion and asphyxiation - don't work alone. Also see our list above of things that can clog up or damage a sewage ejector pump.
Is your sewage ejector pump already damaged? Maybe not. Some sewage pump models indicate in the installation and maintenance manual that the pump can tolerate being run "dry". But best practice is to set the float control switch so that the liquid level does not drop below the pump body.
The float and tube type remote float control switch (left) is used on some sewage pumps and sump pump systems.
This switch and and float assembly is also very similar to a mechanical float and switch found as well in water softener brine tanks to control the water level in the tank.
The float moves vertically up and down in a plastic tube. The tube helps protect the float from jam-ups due to debris in the wastewater tank.
Image source: plumbingsupply.com [5]
The Little Giant™ remote float control switch (left) can be used as an auxiliary control / warning device on sewage and sump pump ejector installations to control an alarm.
By mounting this switch at an activation position higher than the normal float switch that controls pump operation, this remote control switch can activate a light or audible alarm to warn building occupants that the sewage system is not being emptied.
Image source: plumbingsupply.com [5]
See SEWAGE PUMPS for more guidance about buying, installing, and adjusting the controls on sewage grinder pumps and sewage ejector pumps.
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The following is excerpted from the Groton Connecticut USA Grinder Pump FAQs published by the Groton Department of Public Works:
Your grinder pump is powered by electricity and will not function during a power outage. In order to prevent waste from backing up into the lowest sink, tub, or toilet in your home, severely limit the interior use of water until power is restored.
This means do not shower or wash dishes and limit flushing the toilet. Remember: “If it’s brown flush it down, if it’s yellow let it mellow”. - retrieved 16 Aug 2015, original source: "Grinder Pump Frequently Asked Questions", Groton Public Works, http://www.groton-ct.gov/depts/pubwks/docs/Grinder%20Pump%20Website%20info%20the%20hurricane.pdf
I don't like the idea of these sewer ejection pumps as they suck electricity, i feel my builder dug the foundation too deep and therefore stuck me with this annoyance on my new home.
It seems to be not working right now after 8months i am an was not pleased to find out this had to be used as i was not told of it until it was put in already. sucks electricity and whatever else. - Dave
Dave you can figure out just how much electricity your ejector pump is using either by some careful examining of the electric meter itself or by looking up the specs on your motor.
Normally these motors run only intermittently. I'd be surprised if the ejector pump was using as much overall electricity in watt-hours as your refrigerator, freezer, or air conditioner.
But if your actual tests and measurements show that it is a big electricity user, I'd check the current draw using an ammeter to see if the motor is within spec. A bad or failing motor can draw excessive current, or if a control is not working properly and the motor is running constantly that also would be worth fixing.
The septic pump float switch at left describes a common sewage pump control method used on Little Giant™ and many other submersible sewage grinder pumps.
This type of sewage pump float switch, also used on lots of sump pumps, swings in an arc between its high and low positions. It's a simple, reliable electric switch, but debris in the holding tank or improper tethering can lead to switch jamming.
Note that by moving the tether position of the float wire in the pumping chamber you can adjust the pump cut-in and cut-out wastewater levels in the holding tank. Sketch courtesy of plumbingsupply.com [4]
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Soft drain stoppages: white waxy, gel-like, or scaly or plaster-like clogs in plumbing drains or that form as blockages in septic or sewage ejector and grinder pumps can be caused by several very different problems.
Here we describe each of the causes and cures for these soft white or gray jelly-like deposits that clog plumbing drain and pumping systems.
We also describe the causes and cures for harder white, gray or tan drain deposits and clogs, and we include notes on some less-common blue, blue-green, and black slime and clogs found in both supply and drain systems.
What do you suppose was the large white waxy clumpy substance that I found recently in my septic pump container? The sticky substance was stuck to the sides of the tank (where it was several inches thick).
It was also stuck all over the septic pump, and stuck all over the float switch - .which of course was the problem and the reason for opening the tank.
This accumulation happened over 2 years and 5 months.
thanks. - Rani 8/11/11
[Click to enlarge any image] Photo: white waxy deposit clogging the inlet of a sewage ejector pump - InspectApedia.com photo from an anonymous reader.
Rani,
We're not sure. Sorry but our forensic lab no longer accepts sewage slime deposits for analysis and identification, though some larger biological labs and water / sewage testing laboratories can provide that service.
Here are the common causes of white or gray slimy deposits in sewer piping, drains, septic or sewage pumps, and septic tank inlet baffles:
Some white waxy clogging material found in plumbing systems can be caused by bacterial growth, fungal growth including yeasts, and other organisms forming a waxy slime.
Eboigbodin (2008), and McBain (2003) as well as many other researchers cite the role of bacteria and fungi in the formation of biofilm slimy deposits in water supply and drain piping systems.
Photo: Zupančič et als. (2016) investigated the diversity of fungi detected in residential dishwashers, cited in detail at the end of this article.
Several factors have been shown to favor biofilm formation in water distribution systems, including the capability of bacteria to resist disinfectants, improper use of disinfectants, the nature and concentration of biodegradable substances, temperature, and plumbing materials. Eboigbodin (2008)
Common among the biofilm organisms are the fungus Fusarium sp. often detected in plumbing drains (Short 2011), Pseudomonas aeruginosa, other bacteria, as well as yeasts such as Rhodotorula mucilaginosa (usually red or orange) or Exophiala dermatidis (a black yeast) spread from dishwashers to kitchen. - Zupančič 2016
... dishwasher waste water contained E. dermatitidis, Exophiala oligosperma and Sarocladium killiense. - Zupančič
Bacterial growth clogging in a drain line, drain trap, or in an ejector pump or sewage pump can be aggravated by extra sources of bacteria such as bacteria forming in air conditioning condensage dispensed-of by dripping it through the condensate drain system into a seldom-used trap or sewage pump chamber.
If this is the cause, cleaning the system with a simple household cleaner or disinfectant can usually remove the problem.
Vinegar, enzyme cleaners and most drain cleaners will remove typical bacterial slime deposits and clogs.
Also see our notes below about the formation of greasy gelatinous blobs formed from waxes and oils.
Excessive use of powdered detergent in washing machines or dishwasher & white waxy depositsA good guess is that your sewage ejector tank or septic tank that uses a septic pump was clogged by someone who used too much powdered detergents in a clothes washer or dishwasher.
It's well established that using excessive amounts of powdered detergent in a dishwasher or clothes washer can lead to accumulation of a gooey mess that clogs drains or even septic drainfields. Some bar soaps can also form waxy clogs or blockages in plumbing systems and sewage or effluent pumps.
Also see DISHWASHER & LAUNDRY DETERGENTS CONTAINING PHOSPHATES & SURFACTANTS for a discussion of the effects of phosphates & detergents on the environment.
You have provided another important example: excessive detergent use OR using a budget detergent that contains large amounts of clay fillers can clog the pump float control switch or the pump intake in a sewage ejector pump or sewer pump as well.
Some soaps are more likely to cause waxy clogs than others. Soaps are produced by using an alkali to convert fats (animal or vegetable) to a combination of soap and glycerol.
Soaps produced using sodium hydroxide are referred to as "hard" soaps that are more-difficult to dissolve in water, while soaps produced using potassium hydroxide tend to be more-easily soluble and are thus called "soft" soaps.
Soft soaps as well as soaps made from a petroleum base (shower gels, for example) tend not to clog drains.
We discuss detergent choices & recommendations to minimize drain and septic problems in two locations.
Yep it's true, some fools dump plaster or drywall dust and debris down toilets or other drains while cleaning up after a plastering or drywall installation or repair job.
Don't do that. Both plaster and drywall dust will form a hard-to-remove drain blockage in nearby traps or drain lines. While acid-based drain cleaners might remove such blockages more-likely you'll need to use a power snake or other mechanical drain cleaning system.
Other waxy clogging can be traced to soaps and detergents: this second common cause of waxy deposits that clog pumping chambers or piping are fats and oils that were flushed down drains.
These greasy deposits may be white, tan, brown, or even near-black substances that form a gelatinous, greasy, or waxy deposit or blob.
Even if you take care to avoid pouring grease and oils directly into your drains (don't do that), the fats and oils that are deposited on dishes from the normal consumption of a wide range of foods will be sent into the drain system from your kitchen sink or your dishwasher.
For residential drains and pump suffering from fat or oil clogging waxy deposits, plumbing drain FOG (Fat Oil Grease) degreasers (such as Cloroben PT-4) may help dissolve the clog.
See the example MSDS safety sheet for Cloroben PT4, given below. Cloroben PT4 is a plumbing drain cleaner also described as a "flow improver" and "grease control agent" produced and marketed by Hercules. As pointed out by Hughes (1954) often safety has focused first on explosion or fire hazards.
Some Hercules products such as Hercules PT-GIO1™ combine grease solvents and "waste digesting bacteria" while Hercules PT-4 (or Cloroben PT-4) is a formula designed to rapidly dissolve FOG (Fats Oils and Grease) using a non-acidic, non-caustic formula that is described as "safe on all types of piping materials when used as directed"
Watch out: never use industrial metal cleaning chemicals or oil/wax removers in plumbing or septic systems. Details are at DEGREASING SOLVENTS IMPACT on SEPTIC
Also see TOILETS, DON'T FLUSH LIST
And see CHEMICALS to KEEP OUT OF SEPTICS
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Mineral scale formation can form hard white, gray or orange deposits
If your water is "hard" or high in calcium or magnesium that condition, combined with those types of soap particularly invites the formation of waxy white blobs that clog drains, traps, and septic pumps.
For modest scale deposits pouring vinegar into the trap or sewage pump and letting it sit for a few hours can soften and dissolve the clog blockage.
Watch out: For larger and harder scale formation, a scale removing chemical treatment may work but risks environmental contamination if your building is connected to an onsite waste disposal system - private septic tank and drainfields.
Be sure to review the manufacturer's literature about permitted uses of such chemicals.
Mineral scale can also clog water supply pipes, valves, and faucet strainers, as illustrated by our photo just below.
See these articles about mineral scale formation, removal, prevention in water supply and drain systems:
HOT WATER PRESSURE IMPROVEMENT
ps://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Water_Heater_Scale_Removal.php">WATER HEATER SCALE DE-LIMING PROCEDURE
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A reader contacted us to discuss the removal of actual paraffin that her daughter had poured into the drain system.
We advised against using very aggressive chemicals because of the hazards involved, the risk of damage to the drain system, and the low chance of success.
Any chemicals we could find that would dissolve paraffin were in our opinion too dangerous for home use.
Her plumber cut-out and replaced the clogged trap as well as the most-clogged nearby PVC drain lines and physically removed wax deposits in the downstream drain opening.
See BLOCKED DRAIN REPAIR METHODS for a detailed step by step guide to un-blocking clogged drains. Articles at that page also assist in diagnosing the location and cause of drain blockages.
Also see CLOGGED DRAIN DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR.
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Blue or blue-green slimy clogs found in a water supply or drain system, particularly at a water heater or in hot water piping may be caused by the combination of an alkaline water supply and the use of an aluminum anode in the water heater tank.
The chemical reaction between the alkaline water and the aluminum surface of the water heater anode forms a gelatinous greenish blue or blue-gray aluminum hydroxide deposit that can block hot water piping and that may even show up in some building drain systems.
If you suspect that your water heater is providing blue-green jelly blobs check the condition of the water heater anode to confirm that source.
Aluminum anodes are used in water heaters to replace the standard magnesium anode where the local water supply is high in sulphur. That's to avoid a problem with the formation of hydrogen sulfide gas in the water heater - a rotten egg smell.
You may need to replace the worn, corroded anode rod in your water heater and you may need to have your water tested and if it's sufficiently alkaline, you may need to install a water treatment system.
See ANODES & DIP TUBES on WATER HEATERS.
Here Carson Dunlop Associates' sketch above shows the location of the sacrificial anode or dip tube on an electric water heater.
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Not discussed in detail here but included for completeness are bacterial or fungal / mold-formed slime deposits that can clog fixtures, faucets, supply piping and drains.
The black blob shown in our photo was not examined in our lab (though I should have done so) but might include Exophiala dermatidis (a black yeast) that we discussed above at biofilm formation.
To clean and remove the black slimy faucet clog/blob shown in our photo above we used a common household spray cleaner first, then removed the faucet strainer to soak it in vinegar to remove a remaining deposit of mineral scale.
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Above, main parts of a sewage grinder pump, adapted from Zoeller's Shark series 803-805-807.
Our reader said:
We have a Zoelner grinder lift pump that recently clogged with toilet paper when to wrapped around the impeller. Are there any recommendations for what type of TP is best to prevent these types of problems? 2016/04/05 Thomas Guastavino
Thomas I've been testing toilet paper breakdown rates for almost a decade - one experiment is long-going; my OPINION is that all toilet papers break down just fine in a septic tank itself - changing the paper brand won't reliably fix the problem you encountered.
The grinder pump is going to run before most toilet papers will have separated into small fragments.
So I suspect there's a different problem: the grinder - tampons, or some other stuff can clog up sewage pumps. (Dental floss is one of the worst offenders and it's hard to keep that out of the pump).
But Zoeller indicates quite clearly that their residential sewage grinder pumps, such as the Zoeller Shark 803/805/807 Residential Grinders can handle "all flushable wastes" - to me that means feces and toilet paper but not tampons and probably not dental floss.
Are we sure you have the right pump type and model installed. Sometimes people install a de-watering sump pump or a simple effluent lift pump where a grinder pump is needed.
If you have the right type and model of pump installed, check the pump inlet openings to be sure that there is no damage there.
Zoeller's sewer pump instructions also point out that a role of the pump chamber cover is to prevent debris from entering the pumping chamber from that direction as well.
Zoeller can be reached at
BUT NOTE that the company says If you are a homeowner, please contact your local Representative with questions.
Watch out: at SEPTIC & SEWAGE PUMPS we explain that choosing the wrong type of pump, such as installing a simple basin pump or effluent pump (designed to handle primarily liquid waste) on a system where blackwater (toilet waste) is entering the system is likely to lead to pump clogging and failure.
Pump selection and pump types are discussed
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
Why does my sewage pump require constant priming? On 2022-07-12 by Terry
by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - it shouldn't - your pump needs repair
@Terry,
A sewage pump should never need priming, it operates by a float and turns on when the sewage level raises the float.
So something is wrong with your installation or equipment.
I have 3 year old Ashland Sewage pump model SW50 working well. I attempted to clean the tub drain which is connected to the sewage pump along with toilet. I was using Sink Wizard with specially hardened bristle tips, when it apparently got broken and bristle tip is gone, it is about 3/4" long.
Because there is no way to get access to p tap if any , will get in the sewer pump and give any problem?. Should I call plumber and sewer service to inspect the sewer tank to retrieve the piece or if it is stuck in the p tap, should I continue use the bath tube so that it will be flushed in to the sewer tank and pumped out without causing any damage to the pump?
I am concerned about the any major damage/ Your expert opinion is greatly appreciated.thank you On 2022-07-06 by RajaN
Answer by InspectApedia (mod)
@RajaN,
If the tool you refer to is like this one in the photo from Amazon, AND if the entire bristled end broke off and is in the p-trap, you can open the P-trap to try and access it.
It appears to have a metal stem or arm that, if that actually broke off and is inside of a pump, could damage it, although that seems unlikely.
Bottom line: Could you clarify what broke off and fell in?
by Rajan@InspectApedia ,
Thank you for your time to respond with picture of exactly what I was talking about. It is the the hardened bristle tip for tub which broke and got flushed in to the drain. The p-trap can not be accessible due to location of tub .I let water run in the tub several times and flushed toilet few times with pump working. Only option is to call sewer service contractor to inspect the sump pit while flushing to see any thing comes or look inside. Your expert opinion is much appreciated.
by InspectApedia-911 (mod) - how to retrieve broken end of Sink Wizard from drain
@Rajan,
I'm glad you recognize that all we have is an opinion since we're not on site and there may be important details that we can't see and don't know about this problem.
I would be tempted to try to fish with a small hooked wire, working very carefully so it's not to push the broken off brush tip further down the drain but to see if I could hook it and drag it back out.
If that isn't successful you might need to call a plumber.
I have a septic mound system with a two compartment concrete 1000 gallon tank and my home is below the tank as the property is uphill.
All the drains collect into a 50 gallon fiberglass holding tank in the basement and is ejected by a Weil brand single phase 1 hp 230v 1750 rpm grinder pump (yes, grinder pump) the run (I think called total dead head)including all horizontal and vertical distance is approx 60 feet .
My question is, was it appropriate for the builder to install a grinder pump when it seems grinder pump use is almost universally frowned upon in septic systems due to the slurry the grinder makes being difficult to separate into solids and liquid components that septics need to operate effectively without clogging the field.
Should I pull the grinder pump and install a comparably spec’d sewage ejector pump or is there certain situations that might require or benefit from the grinder pump. I can’t get a straight answer from anyone, please help with some advice if you can. On 2021-07-28 by Al in Readington NJ
by inspectapedia.com.moderator - You need the grinder pump; the solution is at the septic tank
@Al in Readington NJ,
I agree that we don't want to pump solids to the mound.
But we need a grinder pump to move wastewater, including solids, out of your in-home pumping chamber out to your septic tank. That 50 gallon pumping station cannot work if all solids remained in such a small space. (Seems obvious; I'm not a sanitary engineer).
So what's the solution: It's not changing the pump.The septic tank needs to be sized and designed (and pumped often enough) to give adequate settling time so that only clarified effluent is sent onwards to the septic mound.
Supporting Research: Use of Grinder Pumps in Septic Systems
If the unfortunate event of a few non-flushable wipes going down the toilet drain has *already occurred*... will pumping the septic tank resolve the potential problems and remove the unwanted material? Thank you! On 2020-10-21 by Freddie
Suggestions by (mod) - yes if your pipes don't clog
Freddie
If there is no drain blockage and provided that septic tank has the required inlet and outlet baffles, then the answer to your question is yes
Mark (from the float management control product manufacgturer) said:
If you keep on having issues with a sewage grinder getting clogged, the Float Management Control from Innovative Utility Solutions, LLC may help eliminate the problem. As has already been stated on this page, many clogs occur when the water level and Off Float drop while the grinder is in the middle of chewing up debris.
The grinder shuts down with a clog in it and can't generate the torque to overcome that clog when it needs to start back up. The Float Management Control keeps this from happening.
- from innovativeutility.com On 2020-08-10 by Mark
I noticed you said you can run vinegar through the pump/grinder system for cleaning, are there any off of the shelf chemicals that you would recommend that might be a little stronger?
We had our system alarm "go off" about a week ago on our detached dwelling unit (with grinder pump) it turned off after about 3 minutes and after some testing it appears to be in working order.
I did a light snaking off the drains and surprisingly a bunch of dental floss came up (disgusting and concerning all in one) along with some of the "grey matter" you wrote about above.
So I am wondering if there is a product or substance that I can put down the drain periodically that will help keep the system "clean"? On 2020-01-16 by AC
Suggestions by (mod) -
AC
The number of companies selling septic additives and "cleaners" is nearly equal to the population of Indonesia; atSEPTIC TREATMENTS & CHEMICALS we describe some of these and explain that they are generally not needed for proper septic TANK maintenance.
However there may be reasons to clean the sewage ejector pump and pumping chamber.Narrowing the search to those products gives some suggestions such as Core Biologic's Ejector Tank Treatment [Website]
Excerpt: 29 Strains of Fresh, Viable, and Natural microbes selected for their capabilities to handle degradation of “common” organics.
More suggestions are at SEWAGE EJECTOR / GRINDER PUMPS our maintenance guide.
We have a small business with several toilets and sinks. Our sewer line runs to a jointly owned pump vault (our sewage and our neighbor's). We have a dual-pump (ejector) system in the vault that pushes the sewage up and down a pressure line (down a side street) to the City's main in a major cross street.
A new business took occupancy of the neighbor building a year ago (we've been here for more than 25 years), and over the past year we've had nothing but trouble with clogged pumps
Typically feminine products and other debris. If this were solely the neighbor's problem, we'd let them suffer through it, but they've made it our problem. Do you have any suggestions of a macerator/grinder that we could place in-line and up-stream from the pumps? And/or is there another solution you would recommend? All suggestions appreciated. Thanks On 2014-09-12
by PN
Answer by (mod) -
PN
Yes, tampons and the like can clog ejector and sewage pumps. Besides posting "Don't flush" signs, which are never 100% effective, one might need to install a pump whose manufacturer says can handle those obstructions. Screens clog.
Septic & Sewage Pump Sources & Manuals
Producers of Septic Pumps, Sewage Pumps, Grinder Pumps, Effluent Pumps are listed
at SEWAGE PUMP BUYERS GUIDE & MANUALS
...
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